Fig. 1058

Fig. 1058.

In Fig. 1058 is shown a twist drill in which one cutting edge is ground longer than the other, and the two cutting edges are not at the same angle to the axis a a of the drill.

Here we find that the axis of drill rotation will be on the line b from the point of the drill as before, but both cutting edges will perform some duty. Thus edge e will drill a hole which the outer end of f will enlarge as shown. Thus the diameter of hole drilled will be determined by the radius of corner c, from the axis of drill revolution, and will still be larger than the drill. A drill thus ground would drill a more true and round hole than one ground as in Fig. 1057, because as both cutting edges perform duty the drill would be steadied.

The rate of feed, however, would require to be governed by that length of cutting edge on f that acts to enlarge the hole made by e, and therefore would be but one-half what would be practicable if the drill were ground true. Furthermore, the corner c would rapidly dull because of its performing an undue amount of duty, or in other words, because it performs double duty, since it is not assisted by the other corner as it should be. In both these examples the drill if rigidly held would be sprung or bent to the amount denoted by the distance between the line a a, representing the true axis of the drill, and line b b, representing the line on which the drill point being ground and one-sided compels the drill to revolve; hence one side of the drill would continuously rub against the walls of the hole the drill produced, acting, as before observed, to grind away the clearance that was shown in figure and also to dull corner c.

Fig. 1059

Fig. 1059.

Fig. 1059 shows a case in which the point of the drill is central to the drill axis d d, but the two cutting edges are not at the same angle. As a result all the duty falls on one cutting edge, and the hole drilled will still be larger in diameter than the drill is, because there is a tendency for the cutting edge e to push or crowd the drill over to the opposite side of the hole.

It will be obvious from these considerations that the more correctly the drill is ground, the longer it will last without regrinding, the greater its amount of feed may be to take an equal depth of cut, and the nearer the diameter of the hole drilled to that of the drill—the most correct results being obtained when the drill will closely fit into the hole it has drilled and will not fall through of its own gravity, a result it is somewhat difficult to attain.

Fig. 1060

Fig. 1060.

Professor John E. Sweet advocates grinding twist drills as in Fig. 1060 (which is from The American Machinist), the object being to have a keener cutting edge at the extreme point of the drill.

In a paper on cutting tools read before the British Institution of Mechanical Engineers the following examples of the efficiency of the twist drill are given—

Referring to a 12 inch twist drill, it is said:

“The time occupied from the starting of each hole in a hammered scrap-iron bar till the drill pierced through it varied from 1 minute 20 seconds to 112 minutes. The holes drilled were perfectly straight. The speed at which the drill was cutting was nearly 20 feet per minute in its periphery, and the feed was 100 revolutions per inch of depth drilled. The drill was lubricated with soap and water, and went clean through the 234 inches without being withdrawn, and after it had drilled each hole it felt quite cool to the hand, its temperature being about 75°. It is found that 120 to 130 such holes can be drilled before it is advisable to resharpen the twist drill. This ought to be done immediately the drill exhibits the slightest sign of distress. If carefully examined after this number of holes has been drilled, the prominent cutting parts of the lips which have removed the metal will be found very slightly blunted or rounded to the extent of about 1100th inch, and on this length being carefully ground by the machine off the end of the twist drill, the lips are brought up to perfectly sharp cutting edges again.

“The same sized holes, 12 inch diameter and 234 inches deep, have been drilled through the same hammered scrap-iron at the extraordinary speed of 234 inches deep in 1 minute and 5 seconds, the number of revolutions per inch being 75. An average number of 70 holes can be drilled in this case before the drill requires resharpening. The writer considers this test to be rather too severe, and prefers the former speed.

“In London, upward of 3000 holes were drilled 58 inch diameter and 38 inch deep through steel bars by one drill without regrinding it. The cutting speed was in this instance too great for cutting steel, being from 18 to 20 feet per minute, and the result is extraordinary. Many thousands of holes were drilled 18 inch diameter, through cast iron 716ths inch deep with straight-shank twist drills gripped by an eccentric chuck in the end of the spindle of a quick-speed drilling machine. The time occupied for each hole was from 9 to 10 seconds only. Again, 14-inch holes have been drilled through wrought copper 138 inches thick at the speed of one hole in 10 seconds. With special twist drills, made for piercing hard Bessemer steel, rail holes, 1316ths inch deep and 2932nds inch diameter, have been drilled at the rate of one hole in 1 minute and 20 seconds in an ordinary drilling machine. Had the machine been stiffer and more powerful, better results could have been obtained. A similar twist drill, 2932nds inch in diameter, drilled a hard steel rail 1316ths inch deep in 1 minute, and another in 1 minute 10 seconds. Another drill, 58 inch diameter, drilled 34 inch deep in 38 seconds, the cutting speed being 22 feet per minute. This speed of cutting rather distressed the drill; a speed of 16 feet per minute would have been better. The steel rail was specially selected as being one of the hardest of the lot.”

Fig. 1061

Fig. 1061.

Fig. 1062

Fig. 1062.

Fig. 1063

Fig. 1063.

Fig. 1064

Fig. 1064.

Drills ground by hand may be tested for angle by a protractor, as in Fig. 1061, and for equal length of cutting edge by resting them upon a flat surface, as b in Fig. 1062, and applying a scale as at s in the figure. In the case of very small drills, it is difficult to apply either the protractor or the scale, as well as to determine the amount of clearance on the end face. This latter, however, may be known from the appearance of the cutting edge at the point a in Fig. 1063, for if the line a is at a right angle to e, there is no clearance, and as clearance is given this line inclines as shown at b in the figure, the inclination increasing with increased clearance, as is shown at c. When this part of the edge inclines in the opposite direction, as at d in the figure, the curved edges e f stand the highest, and the drill cannot cut. The circumferential surface of a drill should never be ground, nor should the front face or straight side of the flute be ground unless under unusual conditions, such as when it is essential, as in drilling very thin sheet metal, to somewhat flatten the corner (c in Fig. 1062), in order to reduce its tendency to run forward, in which case care must be taken not to grind the front face sufficiently to reduce the full diameter. In Fig. 1064, for example, that part of the circumference lying between a and b being left of full circle, the faces of the flutes might be ground away as denoted by the dotted lines c d without affecting the drill diameter.

Fig. 1065

Fig. 1065.

Fig. 1065 represents the Farmer lathe drill, in which the flutes are straight and not spiral, by which means the tendency to run forward when emerging through the work is obviated.

Fig. 1066

Fig. 1066.

When a twist drill is to be used for wood and is driven by a machine it is termed a bit, and is provided with a conical point to steady it, and two wings or spurs, as in Fig. 1066, which sever the fibres of the wood in advance of their meeting the main cutting edges and thus produce a smooth hole. The sharp conical point is used in place of the conical screw of the ordinary wood auger to avoid the necessity of revolving the drill or bit backwards to release the screw in cases in which the hole is not bored entirely through the work.

Fig. 1067

Fig. 1067.

When the drill revolves and the work is to be held in the hands a rest or table whereon to rest the work and hold it fair is shown in Fig. 1067, the taper shank fitting in the dead centre hole and the tailstock spindle being fed up by hand to feed the drill to its cut. The face a a of the chuck is at a right angle to the shank, and a coned recess is provided at the centre, as denoted by the dotted lines, to permit the drill point to pass through the work without cutting the chuck.

Fig. 1068

Fig. 1068.

Fig. 1069

Fig. 1069.

Fig. 1070

Fig. 1070.

For larger work a table, such as shown in Fig. 1068, is used, the cavity c permitting the drilling tool to pass through the work, there being a hole h provided for that purpose. The stem s fits in place of the dead centre. For cylindrical work the rest or chuck shown in Figs. 1069 and 1070 may be employed. It consists of a piece fitted to the tail spindle in place of the dead centre, its end being provided with V-grooves. These grooves are made true with the line of centres of the lathe, so that when the work is laid in them it will be held true. It is obvious that one groove would be sufficient, but two are more convenient—one for large work and one for small work—so that the side of the shaft to be drilled shall not pass within the fork, but will protrude, so that the progress of the work can be clearly seen. In Fig. 1070 an end view of this chuck is shown. It may be observed, however, that when starting the drill care must be taken to have it start true, or the drill may bend, and thus throw the work out of the true. For this reason the drills should be as short as possible when their diameters are small.

For square work this class of work table or chuck may be formed so as to envelop the work and prevent its revolving, thus relieving the fingers of that duty, and it may be so formed as to carry the work back or off the drill when the latter is retired after the drilling is performed.

Fig. 1071

Fig. 1071.

Another and quite convenient method of holding work to be drilled by a revolving drill in the lathe is shown in Fig. 1071. It consists of simply a bracket, a b, fitted to the tool-box of the slide rest, carrying a spindle with one end screwed to receive any face plates or chucks that fit the lathe live spindle. The bracket is kept in position by two pins in the under side of it, fitting into holes in the bottom piece of tool-box. If it be required to drill a straight row of holes, the spindle is fixed by the set-screws in its bracket, and the work is bolted to the face plate at the proper level, and traversed across opposite the drill in the lathe mandrel, by the cross screw of the slide rest, while it is fed up to the drill by the upper screw or the rack and pinion.

For circular rows of holes the centre line of the spindle is adjusted parallel with and at a proper distance from that of the mandrel. For holes in the edge of the work, the whole top of slide rest is turned round till the spindle is at right angles with the mandrel.

Work merely requiring to be held fast for drilling is bolted on one side of the face plate, and can then be adjusted exactly to the drill by the combined motions of the cross screw and the face plate on its centre. Small round work, while drilled in the end, can be held in a scroll chuck screwed on the spindle the same as a face plate.

The convenience of this device consists in this, that the work turned on the chuck may be drilled without moving it from the chuck, which may be so set as to cause the drilled holes to be at any required angle to the work surface, which is quite difficult of accomplishment by other ordinary means.

Fig. 1072

Fig. 1072.

Fig. 1073

Fig. 1073.

On account of the readiness with which a flat drill may be made to suit an odd size or employed to recess work with a flat or other required shape of recess, flat drills are not uncommonly used upon lathe work, and in this case they may be driven in the drill chucks already shown. A very convenient form of drill chuck for small drills is shown in Fig. 1072. It consists of a cylindrical chuck fitting from a to b into the coned hole in the live spindle so as to be driven thereby. At the protruding end c there is drilled a hole of the diameter of the wire forming the drill. At the end of this hole there is filed a slot d extending to the centre of the chuck. The end of the drill is filed half round and slightly taper, as shown in Fig. 1073 at d, so that the half-round end of the drill will pass into the slot of the chuck, therefore forming a driving piece which effectually prevents the drill from slipping, as is apt to occur with cylindrical stem or shank drills. If one size of wire be used for all drills, and the drill size be determined by the forging, the drill will run true, being held quite firmly, and may be very readily inserted in or removed from the chuck.

But the flat drill possesses several disadvantages: thus, referring to figure, it must be enough smaller at a than at b to permit the cuttings to find egress, and this taper causes the diameter of the drill to be reduced at each drill grinding. The end b may, it is true, be made parallel for a short distance, but in this case the cuttings will be apt to clog in the hole unless the drill be frequently removed from deep holes to clear the cuttings. For these reasons the fluted drill or the twist drill is preferable, especially as their diameters are maintained without forging. For deep holes, as, say, those having a depth equal to more than twice the diameter, the flat drill, if of small diameter, as, say, an inch or less, is unsuitable because of the frequency with which it must be removed from the hole to clear it of cuttings.

For fluted or twist drills the lathe may run quicker than for a flat drill, which is again an advantage. It sometimes becomes convenient in the exigencies which occur in the work of a general machine shop to hold a drill in a dog or clamp and feed it into the work with the lathe dead centre. In this case the drill should be held very firmly against the dead centre, or otherwise the drill may, when emerging through the back of the hole, feed itself forward, slipping off the dead centre, and causing the drill to catch and break, or moving the work in the chuck, to avoid which the drill should have a deep and well countersunk centre.

Fig. 1074

Fig. 1074.

A very effective drill for holes that are above two inches in diameter and require enlarging is shown in Fig. 1074. It consists of a piece of flat steel a, with the pieces of wood b fastened on the flat faces, the wood serving to steady the drill and prevent it from running to one side in the work. This drill is sometimes used to finish holes to standard size, in which case the hole to be bored or drilled should be trued out a close fit to the drill for a distance equal to about the diameter of the drill, and the face at the entrance of the hole should be true up. This is necessary to enable the drill to start true, which is indispensable to the proper operation of the drill.

Fig. 1075

Fig. 1075.

This drill is made by being turned up in the lathe, and should have at the stock end a deep and somewhat large centre, so that when in use it may not be liable to slip off the dead centre of the lathe. The drill is held at the stock end by being placed in the lathe dead centre and is steadied, close to the entrance of the hole in the work, by means of a hook which at one end embraces the drill, as shown in Fig. 1075, in which a represents the hook and b the drill.

This drill will bore a parallel hole, but if the same be a long or a deep one it is apt to bore gradually out of true unless the bore of the hole is first trued from end to end with a boring tool before using the drill. It is often employed to enlarge a hole so as to admit a stout boring tool, and to remove the hard surface skin from which the boring tool is apt to spring away.

Fig. 1076

Fig. 1076.

Fig. 1077

Fig. 1077.

Fig. 1078

Fig. 1078.

Half-round Bit or Pod Auger.—For drilling or enlarging holes of great depth (in which case it is difficult to drill straight holes with ordinary drills), the half-round bit—Figs. 1076 and 1077—is an excellent tool. Its diameter d is made that of the required hole, the cutting being done at the end only from a to b, from b to c being ground at a slight angle to permit the edge from a to b to enter the cut. When a half-round bit is to be used on iron or steel, and not upon brass, it may be made to cut more freely by giving the front face rake as at e f, Fig. 1078.

Fig. 1079

Fig. 1079.

To enable a bit of this kind to be adjusted to take up the wear, it may be formed as in Fig. 1079, in which a quarter of the circumference is cut away at a, and a cutter c is bolted in position projecting into a recess at b to secure the cutter in addition to the bolts. Pieces of paper may be inserted at b to set out the cutter.

Fig. 1080

Fig. 1080.

Fig. 1081

Fig. 1081.

An excellent form of boring bar and cutter is shown in Figs. 1080 and 1081.

Fig. 1082

Fig. 1082.

Fig. 1082 shows a side view of the cutter removed from the bar; Fig. 1081 an end, and Fig. 1080 a side view of the bar and cutter. The cutter is turned at a and b to fit the bore of the bar. The cutting edge c extends to the centre of the bar, while that at d does not quite reach the centre. These edges are in a line as shown in the end view. On account of the thickness of the cutter not equaling the diameter of the bore through the bar there is room for a stream of water to be forced through the bar, thus keeping it cool and forcing out the cuttings which pass through the passages g and h in the bar. The cutter drives lightly into the bar. By reason of one cutting edge not extending clear to the centre of the cutter there is formed a slight projection at the centre of the hole bored which serves as a guide to keep the cutter true, causing it to bore the hole very true.

Fig. 1083

Fig. 1083.

For finishing the walls of holes more true, smooth, and straight, and of more uniform diameter than it is found possible to produce them with a drill, the reamer, or rymer, is employed. It consists of a hardened piece of steel having flutes, at the top of which are the cutting edges, the general form of solid reamer for lathe work being shown in Fig. 1083. The reamer is fed end-ways into the work at a cutting speed of about 15 to 18 feet per minute.

The main considerations in determining the form of a reamer are as follows:—

1. The number of its cutting edges.

2. The spacing of the teeth.

3. The angles of the faces forming the cutting edges.

4. Its maintenance to standard diameter.

As to the first, it is obvious that the greater the number of cutting edges the more lines of contact there are to steady it on the walls of the hole; but in any case there should be more than three teeth, for if three teeth are used, and one of them is either relieved of its cut or takes an excess of cut by reason of imperfections in the roundness of the hole, the other two are similarly affected and the hole is thus made out of round.

An even number of teeth will not work so steadily as an odd one, for the following reasons.

Fig. 1084

Fig. 1084.

Fig. 1085

Fig. 1085.

Fig. 1086

Fig. 1086.

Fig. 1087

Fig. 1087.

In Fig. 1084 is represented a reamer having 6 teeth and each of these teeth has a tooth opposite to it; hence, if the hole is out of round two teeth only will operate to enlarge its smallest diameter. In Fig. 1085 is a reamer having 7 teeth, and it will be seen that if any one tooth cuts there will be two teeth on the opposite side of the reamer that must also cut; hence, there are three lines of contact to steady the reamer instead of two only as in the case of the 6 teeth. An even number of teeth, however, may be made to operate more steadily by spacing the teeth irregularly, and thus causing three teeth to operate if the hole is out of round. Thus, in Fig. 1086 the teeth are spaced irregularly, and it will be seen that as no two teeth are exactly opposite, if a tooth on one side takes a cut there must be two on the opposite side that will also cut. The objection to irregular spacing is that the diameter of the reamer cannot be measured by calipers. Another method of obtaining steadiness, however, is to make the flutes and the cutting edges spiral instead of parallel to the axis, but in this case the spiral must be left-handed, as in Fig. 1087, or else the cutting edges acting on the principle of a screw thread will force the reamer forward, causing it to feed too rapidly to its cut. If, however, a reamer have considerable degree of taper, it may be given right-hand flutes, which will assist in feeding it.

Referring to the second, the spacing of the teeth must be determined to a great extent by the size of the reamer, and the facility afforded by that size to grind the cutting edges to sharpen them.

Fig. 1088

Fig. 1088.

Fig. 1089

Fig. 1089.

The method employed to grind a reamer is shown in Fig. 1088, in which is shown a rapidly-revolving emery-wheel, above the reamer, and also a gauge against which the front face of each tooth is held while its top or circumferential face is being sharpened. The reamer is held true to its axis and is pushed end-ways beneath the revolving emery-wheel. In order that the wheel may leave the right-hand or cutting edge the highest (as it must be to enable it to cut), the axis of the emery-wheel must be on the left hand of that of the reamer, and the spacing of the teeth must be such that the periphery of the emery-wheel will escape tooth b, for otherwise it would grind away its cutting edge. It is obvious, however, that the less the diameter of the emery-wheel the closer the teeth may be spaced; but there is an objection to this, inasmuch as that the top of the tooth is naturally ground to the curvature of the wheel, as is shown in Fig. 1089, in which two different-sized emery-wheels are represented operating on the same diameter of reamer. The cutting edge of a has the most clearance, and is therefore the weakest and least durable; hence it is desirable to employ as large a wheel as the spacing of the teeth will allow, there being at least four teeth, and preferably six, on small reamers, and their number increasing with the diameter of the reamer.

Fig. 1090

Fig. 1090.

Fig. 1091

Fig. 1091.

It would appear that this defect might be remedied by placing the emery-wheel parallel to the teeth as in Fig. 1090; but if this were done, the wear of the emery-wheel would cause the formation of a shoulder at s in the figure, which would round off the cutting edge of the tooth. This, however, might be overcome by giving the emery-wheel enough end motion to cause it to cross and recross the width of the top facet; or the reamer r may be presented to the wheel w at an angle to the plane of wheel rotation, as in Fig. 1091, which would leave a straight instead of a curved facet, and, therefore, a stronger and more durable cutting edge.

Fig. 1092

Fig. 1092.

Another method of accomplishing the same object would be to mount the emery-wheel as in Fig. 1092, using its side face, which might be recessed on the side, leaving an annular ring of sufficient diameter to pass clear across the tooth, and thus prevent a shoulder from forming on the side face of the wheel.

Fig. 1093

Fig. 1093.

Yet another method is to use an emery-wheel bevelled on its edge, and mount it as in Fig. 1093, in which case it would be preferable to make the bevel face narrow enough that all parts would cross the facet of the tooth.

Fig. 1094

Fig. 1094.

Referring to the third, viz., the angles of the faces forming the cutting edges, it is found that the front faces, as a and b in Fig. 1094, should be a radial line, for if given rake as at c, the tooth will spring off the fulcrum at point e in the direction of d, and cause the reamer to cut a hole of larger diameter than itself, an action that is found to occur to some extent even where the front face is a radial line. As this spring augments with any increase of cut-pressure, it is obvious that if a number of holes are to be reamed to the same diameter it is essential that the reamer take the same depth of cut in each, so that the tooth spring may be equal in each case. This may be accomplished to a great extent by using two reamers, one for equalizing the diameters of the holes, and the other for the final finishing. The clearance at the top of the teeth is obviously governed by the position of the reamer with relation to the wheel, and the diameter of the wheel, being less in proportion as the reamer is placed farther beneath the wheel, and the wheel diameter is increased. In some forms of reamer the teeth are formed by circular flutes, such as at h in Fig. 1094, and but three flutes are used. This leaves the teeth so strong and broad at the base that the teeth are not so liable to spring; but, on the other hand, the clearance is much more difficult to produce and to grind in the resharpening.

As to the maintenance of the reamer to standard diameter, it is a matter of great importance, for the following reasons: The great advantage of the standard reamer is to enable holes to be made and pieces to be turned to fit in them without requiring any particular piece to be fitted to some particular hole, and in order to accomplish this it is necessary that all the holes and all the pieces be exactly alike in diameter. But the cutting edges of the reamer begin to wear—and the reamer diameter, therefore, to reduce—from the very first hole that it reams, and it is only a question of time when the holes will become too small for the turned pieces to enter or fit properly. In all pieces that are made a sliding or a working fit, as it is termed when one piece moves upon the other, there must be allowed a certain latitude of wear before the one piece must be renewed.

One course is to make the reamer when new enough larger than the proper size to bore the holes as much larger as this limit of wear, and to restore it to size when it has worn down so that the holes fit too tightly to the pieces that fit them. But this plan has the great disadvantage that the pieces generally require to have other cutting operations performed on them after the reaming, and to hold them for these operations it is necessary to insert in them tightly-fitting plugs, or arbors, as they are termed. If, therefore, the holes are not of equal diameter the arbor must be fitted to the holes, whereas the arbor should be to standard diameter to save the necessity of fitting, which would be almost as costly as fitting each turned piece to its own hole. It follows, therefore, that the holes and arbors should both be made to a certain standard, and the only way to do this is to so construct the reamer that it may be readily adjusted to size by moving its teeth.

Fig. 1095

Fig. 1095.

It is obvious that a reamer must, to produce parallel holes, be held axially true with the holes, or else be given liberty to adjust itself true. Fig. 1095 shows a method of accomplishing this object. The reamer is made to have a slight freedom or play in the sleeve, being 132 inch smaller, and the hole for the pin is also made large so that the reamer may adjust itself for alignment.

Fig. 1096

Fig. 1096.

Fig. 1097

Fig. 1097.

For short holes the shell reamer shown in Fig. 1096 may be employed. Its bore is coned so that it will have sufficient friction upon its driving arbor to prevent its coming off; when it is to be withdrawn from the work it is provided with two slots into which fit corresponding lugs on the driving arbor. Fig. 1097 shows the Morse Twist Drill and Machine Company’s arbor.

Fig. 1098

Fig. 1098.

The rose reamer, or rose bit, has its cutting edges on the end only, as shown in Fig. 1098, the grooves being to supply lubricating material (as oil or water) only, and, as a result, will bore a more parallel hole than the ordinary reamer in cases in which the reamer has liberty to move sideways, from looseness in the mechanism driving it. Furthermore, when the work is composed of two parts, the outer one, through which the reamer must pass before it meets the inner one, guides the reamer without becoming enlarged by reason of the reamer having cutting edges, which is especially advantageous when the inner hole requires to be made true with the outer one, or in cases where a piece has two holes with a space between them, and one hole requires to be made true with the other, and both require to be made to the same diameter as the reamer.

Fig. 1099

Fig. 1099.

Fig. 1099 represents the Morse Twist Drill Company’s shell rose reamer for short holes, corresponding in principle to the solid rose reamer, but fitting to an arbor for the same purposes as the shell reamer.

Fig. 1100

Fig. 1100.

Instead of having upon a reamer a flat tooth top to provide clearance, very accurate and smooth work may be produced by letting the back of the tooth, as a in Fig. 1100, proceed in a straight line to b, leaving the reamer, when soft, too large, so that after hardening it may be ground by an emery-wheel to size; and the clearance may be given by simply oilstoning the top of each tooth lengthwise, the oilstone marks barely effacing the emery marks at the cutting edge and removing slightly more as the back of the tooth is approached from the cutting edge. This produces cutting edges that are very easily fed to the cut, which must obviously, however, be a light one, as should always be the case for finishing, so that the wear of the teeth may be a minimum, and the reamer may therefore maintain its standard diameter as long as possible.

When a solid reamer has worn below its required diameter, the same may be restored by upsetting the teeth with a set chisel, by driving it against the front face; and in determining the proper diameter for a reamer for work to be made to gauge under the interchangeable system the following considerations occur.

Obviously the diameter of a reamer reduces as it wears; hence there must be determined a limit to which the reamer may wear before being restored to its original diameter. Suppose that this limit be determined as 11000 inch, then as the reamer wears less in diameter the bolts to fit the holes it reams must also be made less as the reamer wear proceeds, or otherwise they will not enter the reamed holes. But it is to be observed that while the reamer wears smaller, the standard gauges to which the pins or bolts are turned wear larger, and the wear is here again in a direction to prevent the work from fitting together. It is better then to make the reamer when new too large to the amount that has been determined upon as the limit of wear, so that when the work begins to go together too tight, the reamer requires resharpening and restoring.

A still better plan, however, is to use reamers adjustable for diameter, so that the wear may be taken up, and also the reamer sharpened, without being softened, which always deteriorates the quality of the steel.

Fig. 1101

Fig. 1101.

Reamers that are too small to be made adjustable for size by a combination of parts may be constructed as in Fig. 1101, in which the reamer is drilled and threaded, and countersunk at the end to receive a taper-headed screw s, which may be screwed in to expand the reamer, which contains three longitudinal splits to allow it to open. To cause s to become locked in its adjusted position a plug screw p is inserted for the end of s to abut against. It is obvious that in this form the reamer is expanded most at the end.

Fig. 1102

Fig. 1102.

Fig. 1102 represents a single-tooth adjustable reamer, in which the body a is ground to the standard diameter, and the wear of the cutter c is taken up by placing paper beneath the cutter. In this case the reamer cannot, by reason of the wear of the cutting edge, ream too small, because the body a forms a gauge of the smallest diameter to which the reamer will cut. The cutter may, however, be set up to the limit allowed for wear of cutting edge, which for work to fit should not be more than 15000 inch.