The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Book of Cheese, by Charles Thom and Walter Warner Fisk

THE BOOK OF CHEESE

PREFACE

Certain products we associate with the manufactures of the household, so familiar and of such long standing that we do not think of them as requiring investigation or any special support of science. The older ones of us look back on cheese as an ancient home product; yet the old-fashioned hard strong kind has given place to many named varieties, some of them bearing little resemblance to the product of the kitchen and the buttery. We have analyzed the processes; discovered microorganisms that hinder or help; perfected devices and machines; devised tests of many kinds; studied the chemistry; developed markets for standardized commodities. Here is one of the old established farm industries that within a generation has passed from the housewife and the home-made hand press to highly perfected factory processes employing skilled service and handling milk by the many tons from whole communities of cows. This is an example of the great changes in agricultural practice. Cheese-making is now a piece of applied science; many students in the colleges are studying the subject; no one would think of undertaking it in the old way: for these reasons this book is written.

This book is intended as a guide in the interpretation of the processes of making and handling a series of important varieties of cheese. The kinds here considered are those made commercially in America, or so widely met in the trade that some knowledge of them is necessary. The relation of cheese to milk and to its production and composition has been presented in so far as required for this purpose. The principles and practices underlying all cheese-making have been brought together into a chapter on curd-making. A chapter on classification then brings together into synoptical form our knowledge of groups of varieties. These groups are then discussed separately. The problems of factory building, factory organization, buying and testing milk, and the proper marketing of cheese, are briefly discussed.

Such a discussion should be useful to the student, to the beginner in cheese-making, as a reference book on many varieties in the hands of makers who specialize in single varieties, and to the housekeeper or teacher of domestic science. The material has been brought together from the experience of the writers, supplemented by free use of the literature in several languages. Standard references to this literature are added in the text.

No introduction to the subject of cheese should fail to mention the work of J. H. Monrad, who has recently passed away. Mr. Monrad never collected his material into a single publication, but his contributions to chees-emaking information, scattered widely in trade literature over a period of thirty years, form an encyclopedia of the subject.

Bulletins of the Agricultural Experiment Stations and United States Department of Agriculture have been quoted extensively, with citation of the sources of the material. Personal assistance from Professor W. A. Stocking and other members of the Dairy Department of Cornell University, and C. F. Doane of the United States Department of Agriculture, is gladly acknowledged.

Students cannot learn out of books to make cheese. They may, however, be aided in understanding the problems from such study. To make cheese successfully they must have intimate personal touch with some person who knows cheese. Sympathetic relations with such a teacher day by day in the cheese-room are essential to success in making cheese which, at its best, is one of the most attractive of food-products.

The Authors.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

THE BOOK OF CHEESE

CHAPTER I

GENERAL STATEMENT ON CHEESE

Cheese is a solid or semi-solid protein food product manufactured from milk. Its solidity depends on the curdling or coagulation of part or all of the protein and the expulsion of the watery part or whey. The coagulum or curd so formed incloses part of the milk-serum (technically whey) or watery portion of the milk, part of the salts, part or all of the fat, and an aliquot part of the milk-sugar. The loss in manufacture includes a small fraction of the protein and fat, the larger proportion of the water, salts and milk-sugar.

1. Nature of cheese.—Milk of itself is an exceedingly perishable product. Cheese preserves the most important nutrient parts of the milk in condition for consumption over a much longer period. The duration of this period and the ripening and other changes taking place depend very closely on the composition of the freshly made cheese. There is an intimate relation between the water, fat, protein and salt-content of the newly made cheese and the ripening processes which produce the particular flavors of the product when it is ready for the consumer. This relation is essentially biological. A cheese containing 60 to 75 per cent of water, as in "cottage cheese" (the sour-milk cheese so widely made in the homes), must be eaten or lost in a very few days. Spoilage is very rapid. In contrast to this, the Italian Parmesan, with 30 to 32 per cent of water, requires two to three years for proper ripening.

The cheeses made from soured skim-milk probably represent the most ancient forms of cheese-making. Their origin is lost in antiquity. The makers of Roquefort cheese cite passages from Pliny which they think refer to an early form of that product. It is certain that cheese in some form has been familiar to man throughout historic times. The technical literature of cheese-making is, however, essentially recent. The older literature may be cited to follow the historical changes in details of practice.

2. Cheese-making as an art has been developed to high stages of perfection in widely separate localities. The best known varieties of cheese bear the geographical names of the places of their origin. The practices of making and handling such cheeses have been developed in intimate relation to climate, local conditions and the habits of the people. So close has been this adjustment in some cases, that the removal of expert makers of such cheeses to new regions has resulted in total failure to transplant the industry.

3. Cheese-making as a science has been a comparatively recent development. It has been partly a natural outgrowth of the desire of emigrant peoples to carry with them the arts of their ancestral home, partly the desire to manufacture at home the good things met in foreign travel. Its development has been largely coincident with the development of the agricultural school and the science of dairy biology. Even now we have but a limited knowledge of a few of the 500 or more varieties of cheese named in the literature. It is desirable to bring together the knowledge of underlying principles as far as they are known.

No technical description of a cheese-handling process can replace experience. Descriptions of appearances and textures of curd in terms definite enough to be understood by beginners have been found to be impossible. It is possible, however, to lay down principles and essentials of practice which are common to the industry and form the foundation for intelligent work. Cheese-making will be a science only as we depart from the mere repetition of a routine or rule-of-thumb practice and understand the underlying principles.

4. Problems in cheese-making.—Any understanding of these problems calls for a working knowledge of the very complex series of factors involved. These include the chemical composition of the milk, the nature of rennet and character of its action under the conditions met in cheese-making, the nature of the micro-organisms in milk, and the methods of controlling them, their relation to acidity and to the ripening of the cheese. To these scientific demands must be added acquaintance with the technique of the whole milk industry, from its production and handling on the farm through the multiplicity of details of factory installation and organization, to those intangible factors concerned with the texture, body, odor and taste of the varied products made from it. Some of these factors can be adequately described; others have thus far been handed on from worker to worker but have baffled every effort at standardization or definition.

5. History.—The recorded history of the common varieties of cheese is only fragmentary. Practices at one time merely local in origin followed the lines of emigration. Records of processes of manufacture were not kept. The continuance of a particular practice depended on the skill and memory of the emigrant, who called his cheese after the place of origin. Other names of the same kind were applied by the makers for selling purposes. The widely known names were thus almost all originally geographical. Some of them, such as Gorgonzola, are used for cheeses not now made at the places whose names they bear. Naturally, this method of development has produced national groups of cheeses which have many common characteristics but differ in detail. The English cheeses form a typical group of this kind.