The Express-wagon shown in Fig. 284 is made out of a long flat box. Cut down the sides at the front and construct a seat on top of the sides as shown in Fig. 286. Cut the front wheels about 2¼ inches in diameter and the rear wheels about 2¾ inches in diameter. If you haven't a compass with which to describe the circles, you can mark out the wheels with cups or glass tumblers. Cut the wooden axles as shown in Fig. 286, making the front axle—for the smaller wheels—deeper than the rear one, then fasten them to the wagon and nail the wheels to their ends. Drive a tack into the front of the wagon-box and tie a cord to it, or, if you have a small toy horse to hitch to the wagon, fasten a pair of shafts to the under side of the box as is shown upon the two-wheel cart.
The Cart in Fig. 285 is made out of a square flat box with its wheels fastened to the center of the under side. Make the wheels about 2¾ inches in diameter.
The Auto Delivery-wagon (Figs. 287 and 288. See Frontispiece) requires two boxes 8½ inches long, 5 inches wide, and 2½ inches deep. You will see by the illustrations that one box is inverted upon the other. Before fastening them together, remove the two ends of the upper box and the rear end of the lower box (leaving the front end for the dashboard), and cut 2 inches off the sides at the front and an additional piece 1 inch by 1¾ inches from the sides of the upper box for windows. Fasten the boxes together by nailing strips to the ends of side pieces. Nail a narrow strip across the top of the rear end of the wagon and hinge a drop end-gate to the wagon-bed with cloth strips. Support the end-gate with a cloth strap. Tack a curtain of black cloth to the top cross strip and sew two cloth straps to the curtain, so that it may be fastened up in a roll, as shown in the photograph. Make the wheels and axles like those of the express wagon, but cut the front and rear wheels, also the two axles, of equal size. Cut out a small steering-wheel and fasten it on a short wooden rod inside of the dashboard. Make a seat and seat back, nail the back to the seat, and then fasten the seat between the sides of the wagon just below the windows.
A Jack-in-the-box (Fig. 289) is a simpler toy to make than you might imagine. The box should measure about 5¾ inches by 5¾ inches by 5 inches. Hinge the cover to the top with two pieces of heavy cloth; glue one piece to the inside of the cover and box, and the other to the outside. Drive a small tack into the front edge of the cover, and below it fasten a small hook on to the box; the hook may be bent from a short piece of wire.
A spiral spring from an old bed-spring will do for Jack's body, but if you cannot get one of these it is a simple matter to make a spring. Take a piece of No. 12 gauge wire about 10 feet in length and wind it around a rolling-pin or anything that is cylindrical and about 2½ inches in diameter. Fasten this spring with doubled-pointed tacks upon a piece of wood cut to fit the inside of the box (Fig. 290), then procure a small doll's head, baste a circular piece of cardboard to the top of the spring and to this sew the head. Make a cloth fool's cap to glue on Jack's head, covering his hair entirely, and also a loose jacket to fit over his spiral body; for these use any bright-colored cotton cloth that will fall into folds easily. Tack the base of the spring to the bottom of the box.
Fig. 297.—Leg of Dining-table.
Fig. 296.—Pedestal of Center-table.
Make the seat for
The Round-seated Chair shown in Fig. 291 2 inches in diameter, the back 5 inches high, 2 inches wide at the top, and 1¼ inches wide at the seat; cut the front leg 21/8 inches high by 1¼ inches wide.
The Round Center-table (Fig. 292) should have a base built up of four strips as shown in Fig. 296. Cut the circular top 5 inches in diameter. A saucer may be used with which to mark this out.
Select a long flat box for
The Dining-table shown in Fig. 293, and after making four built-up legs as shown in Fig. 297 fasten them into the four corners of the box table top with brads and glue.
In making the little
Square-seated Chair (Fig. 294), cut the seat about 2 inches wide by 2¼ inches deep, the front legs 21/8 inches high by 3/8 inch wide, and the back legs 4½ inches high by 3/8 inch wide. Brace the legs and back with crosspieces, and you will have a very firm and artistic dining-room chair.
Select a box about 9 inches by 5 inches by 2¼ inches in size for making
The Doll's Cradle shown in Fig. 295. Cut the two rockers by the pattern in Fig. 298 and fasten them to the bottom of the box 1 inch from the ends. Use the rim of a breakfast plate in drawing the arc of the rockers; then draw the rounded ends, being careful to get them alike. Saw out the rockers very particularly so as not to split off the ends. Fasten the pieces to the cradle box with brads driven through the box bottom into their top edge.
After the cigar-box toys have been made, rub down the wood with fine sandpaper. Then drive all nail-heads below the surface, fill up the holes with putty stained to match the wood as nearly as possible, and finish with two coats of boiled linseed-oil. Apply the oil with a rag, then wipe off all surplus oil with a dry cloth.
All that is required for making the little toys shown in this chapter are spools, cardboard, paper, a straight-grained stick out of which to cut pegs, some tacks, pins, and glue.
Did you ever see a better model of
A Baby Carriage than that shown in Fig. 299, with its rounded ends, arched bottom, and adjustable hood? It is easy to make.
Figure 300 shows the details for constructing the carriage body. Cut four wooden pegs to fit loosely in the holes of four spools of equal size, and make them of the right length so when slipped into the holes their ends will project about ¼ inch beyond the spool ends. Then cut the bottom strip B 5 inches long by the width of the spools, bend it slightly as shown, to give a curve to the carriage bottom, and tack the ends of the strip to two of the spools (A).
The sides C are of cardboard and should be 1½ inches wide at the widest point, by the length of the carriage body. Punch holes through these side pieces in the right places for the ends of the pegs in spools A to stick through.
Before fastening the side pieces to spools A, you must attach the wheels (Figs. 301 and 302). Cut the cardboard uprights D 3½ inches long and ½ inch wide; then after cutting holes through each near the ends, for the spool pegs to slip through, cut down the width between the holes to about ¼ inch (Fig. 302). Slip the lower ends of uprights D over the pegs in spool wheels E, then the upper ends over the pegs in spools A. Glue the upper ends to the ends of spools A, then slip the carriage sides C over the pegs of spools A, and glue them in place.
Fig. 303.—Baby Carriage Hood.
Fig. 304.—Diagram of Hood.
Fig. 305.—Carriage Handles.
The carriage hood (Fig. 303) is made of a piece of stiff paper about 4½ inches square (Fig. 304), slashed in three places along two opposite edges for a distance of about 1½ inches, and then folded over as indicated by dotted lines. Bring together the ends of the slashed edges of the piece of paper, as shown in Fig. 303, coat them with glue, and press together until the glue has dried. Punch a hole through each side of the top, as shown, for the projecting ends of the spool peg to slip through.
The carriage handle is made of two cardboard strips (F, Fig. 305), and a match (G). Stick the match through holes made near the ends of strips F, and glue the lower ends of the strips to the inside face of the sides (Fig. 299). This completes the carriage.
The Two-wheel Cart (Fig. 306) is made of a small box cover, and one of the spools on which crochet-cotton comes. Prepare a bent piece of cardboard like that shown in Fig. 308, with ends A turned down at the proper points so there will be only room enough between them for the spool to turn freely. Punch a hole through each turned down end for a stick axle to run through.
Fig. 310.—Merry-go-round.
Fig. 311.—Teeter.
Fig. 312.—Cardboard Strip for Merry-go-round and Teeter.
Fig. 313.—Boy and Girl Riders for Merry-go-round and Teeter.
Then cut two slots through the box cover the same distance apart as ends A (Fig. 307), centering the pair both crosswise and lengthwise of the cover, and stick ends A through the slots and glue portion B to the cover. Cut the wheel axle enough smaller than the spool hole so the spool will turn easily, then push it through the hole in the spool and the holes in ends A.
Glue the end of a cardboard strip to the under side of the cover for a shaft.
The Toy Merry-go-round in Fig. 310 consists of a strip of heavy cardboard turned up at its ends (Fig. 312), tacked at its center to the end of a stick cut small enough to turn easily in the hole in a spool.
The spool slipped over the stick is grasped by the right hand, and the left hand starts the merry-go-round and keeps it in motion by twirling the stick to which the cardboard strip is fastened.
The boy and girl riders, shown in Fig. 313 are of the right size so you can trace them off upon a piece of tracing-paper and then transfer to cardboard. After cutting them out of the cardboard, color both sides with crayons or water-colors, and glue them to the turned-up ends of the cardboard strip.
The Teeter-Board (Fig. 311) is made of the same kind of a strip as that used for the merry-go-round (Fig. 312). Tack this strip at its center to the side of a spool, and mount the spool in a cardboard frame in the same way that the spool wheels of the cart are mounted (Figs. 308 and 309); but make the peg axle to fit tight in the spool hole. Prepare a boy and girl rider similar to those made for the merry-go-round (Fig. 313).
The teeter is operated by turning the end of the spool axle first one way then the other.
The Doll Swing shown in Fig. 314 has a cardboard base, with two spools fastened to it 4 inches apart to support the framework. Tack the base to the ends of the spools. The framework uprights are tightly rolled tubes of paper 10 or 12 inches long, and the top crosspiece is another paper tube 4 inches long. Stick the lower ends of the uprights into the spool holes; then fasten the crosspiece to their tops by running pins through it and into the upright ends (Fig. 315), and then lashing the connections with thread as shown in Fig. 314.
The swing seat is made of a spool with a cardboard back fastened to it (Figs. 316 and 317). Suspend the spool with thread from the top of the swing crosspiece.
A Sofa with arm rolls, like that shown in Fig. 318, is a good example of what can be made in spool-and-cardboard doll furniture. Prepare the seat and back out of a single piece of cardboard, curving the top and ends of the back as shown, and making the width of the seat the same as the length of the spool arms. Fasten the spools by means of a strip of paper bent over them as shown in Fig. 320, and glued to the seat. Use small silk-thread spools (Fig. 321) for feet, and glue them to the seat at the four corners.
The Chair (Fig. 322) has a seat and back made out of a single piece of cardboard, with one-third of its length bent out for the seat. Glue the seat to a spool base.
The Square Center-table (Fig. 323) has a crochet-cotton spool pedestal, and its top is a square piece of cardboard. Glue the spool to the exact center of the top.
The Round Center-table (Fig. 324) is made similarly. Use the rim of a cup for marking out the circular top.
With a little ingenuity you will be able to devise a great many other pieces of doll furniture, and other toys as well.
Who wants to play at being Uncle Sam, and have a postal system right in the house, or out on the front porch where it will be convenient for the children next door to enjoy it, too? Every small boy and girl loves to play postman, collect mail from the toy mail-box, cancel the stamps, sort out the letters into the proper routes, and then deliver them to those whom they are addressed to.
The mail-box shown in Figs. 325 and 326 is easily made, and with
The Working Material on hand can be completed in an evening. Two sheets of cardboard, a piece of muslin, some silver paper or paint, a piece of tape about 2 yards long, and a needle and thread, are required. The cardboard should be stiff enough to hold its shape, and yet be of light enough weight to cut and fold easily. Sheets 22 inches by 28 inches can be bought at any printing-shop, and at some stationery stores, and will not cost more than 10 cents a sheet at the most. If you have some large cardboard boxes, however, you can use them instead by so laying out the different parts that the corners of the boxes will come in the right places for the corners of the mail-box.
Figure 327 shows the diagrams for
Fig. 327.—Diagram for Making Sides, Ends, and Bottom of Mail-box.
Fig. 328.—Diagram for Making Top.
Fig. 329.—Diagram for Making End Pieces of Letter-drop.
Fig. 330.—Diagram for Making Front Piece of Letter-drop.
Making the Sides, Ends, and Bottom of the mail-box, with the dimensions of every portion marked upon them. Use a ruler with which to guide your pencil in drawing the straight lines, and a compass or the rim of a 9-inch plate for describing the arcs for the round tops of the end pieces. You will see that the front, one end, and the bottom are made in one piece, and that the back, other end, and a second bottom (to make that portion doubly strong) are cut from another piece.
Fig. 325.—The Home-made Mail-box Strapped to the Face of a Door.
Fig. 326.—The Home-made Mail-box Strapped to a Chair Back.
Fig. 331.—The Sides, Ends, and Bottom folded ready to be put Together.
The dotted lines upon the diagram indicate where the cardboard should be folded. Figure 331 shows the sides, ends, and bottom folded ready to be put together. Turn the flaps inside, and glue them to the end pieces, and glue the two bottom pieces together; also sew the cardboard with a double thread to make the joining doubly secure.
Fig. 332.—Top, showing how Portion is Bent up for Back of Letter-drop.
Fig. 333.—Ends of Letter-drop.
Fig. 334.—Front of Letter-drop.
Fig. 335.—Top, with Letter-drop Completed.
The Top of the Box—the diagram for the cutting of which is shown in Fig. 328—has a piece 3 by 7 inches cut out on all but one long side, and bent up to form the top of
The Letter-drop (Fig. 332). The diagram for the ends of the letter-drop is shown in Fig. 329, and for the front in Fig. 330; Fig. 333 shows how cloth flaps are glued to the end piece; and Fig. 335 shows how the end pieces are fastened to the top of the box by means of these flaps. Glue a strip of cloth to each side of the lower edge of the letter-drop front piece for hinges (Fig. 334), and glue one to the inside and the other to the outside of the top of the box (Fig. 335). Attach rubber-bands to the front and ends of the drop to make it spring shut. Glue and sew the top of the box to the flaps provided on the front and back for the purpose.
Fig. 336.—Diagram for Making Collection-drop.
Fig. 337.—How the Collection-drop is Folded.
Fig. 338.—The Collection-drop Hinged in Place.
Figure 336 shows the diagram for
The Collection-drop, and Fig. 337 how it looks folded. Hinge the drop to the box with a cloth strip (Fig. 338).
Reinforcement. When the work has been finished thus far, cut a number of strips of muslin 1 inch wide and reinforce the corners with them. Then take the 2-yard length of tape, which you procured, and sew it to the back of the box to hang it up by.
Covering the Box. Silver paper makes the nicest finish for the mail-box, and can be bought of a stationer; but you may paint the cardboard with aluminum radiator paint instead if you prefer. If you use silver paper, stick it on with flour paste.
After the paper or paint has dried, paste
A Collection Schedule Card upon the front of the box. You will need, also, to
Letter the words, "Pull Down," "Letters," etc., where they are shown in the illustrations.
Hang up the Mail-box by means of its tape strap, within easy reach, upon the face of a door (Fig. 325), or to the back of a chair (Fig. 36).
For a Mail-bag use a school-book bag, or make one just like a real postman's out of brown denim or cambric. Letter "U. S. Mail" upon the bag with black paint, or cut the letters from black or white muslin and glue them in place. Provide a long strap to reach over the postman's shoulder.
The Way to Play Post-Office is for several children to attend to the writing of letters and wrapping of parcels, another to play mail clerk, who puts the post-marks on the mail and sorts it out into "routes" and another to play postman.
Canceled stamps from old letters may be re-used on the play letters, and a rubber-stamp dater such as they sell at the stationer's for 10 cents may be used for printing the post-marks.
This reflecting lantern, shown completed in Fig. 339, is more magical in its operation than a magic-lantern is, because, instead of projecting through transparent slides, it reflects opaque pictures. That makes it possible to use magazine and newspaper pictures, post cards, and photograph prints. You may reflect a greatly enlarged picture of the movements of your watch, and by placing your face against the opening in the reflectoscope, you may show a view of your mouth opening and closing, giant size. The ease with which slides are obtained makes this a desirable lantern to own.
The Material. You must get a box about 10 by 10 by 20 inches in size for the case of the reflectoscope, two oil-lamps, or two 16 or 32 candle-power electric lamps with the parts necessary for connecting them to the electric lighting circuit, three 1-lb. baking-powder cans and two tomato cans, two pieces of tin about 6 by 10 inches in size, and a lens from a camera, field glass, opera glass, magic-lantern or bicycle-lamp.
The bottom of the box will be the front of the reflectoscope.
Cut the Lens Opening through this, at the center of its length, and a trifle above the center of its width. Make the hole a trifle larger than the lens.
Cut Ventilator Holes 3 inches in diameter through the uppermost side of the box, near to the ends and bottom.
Figures 341 and 342 show
The Interior Arrangement of the reflectoscope. Place the lamps in the corners of the box, next to the front, and tack in back of them the pieces of tin for reflectors (A, Figs. 341 and 342). Bend the reflectors to the curve shown.
If Oil Lamps are Used, their tops will project through the ventilation holes, as shown in Fig. 342. These openings must be inclosed with
A Hood which will Conceal the Light, yet allow the heat to escape. The most satisfactory arrangement is that shown in Figs. 339 and Fig. 342. A baking-powder can with its bottom removed (B) is slipped over the lamp chimney and fitted into the ventilation hole; then a tomato-can (C) is inverted over the top of the can and fastened in the slotted ends of three wooden peg stilts (D, Fig. 340), and the pegs are fitted into holes made in the top of the box (Figs. 339 and 342). Fasten the can in the slots of the stilts with tacks (Fig. 340).
If Electric Light is Used, the hooded ventilators may be omitted. Any boy who understands the wiring of electric-lamp sockets, plugs, and drop-cord will know how to wire up the reflectoscope.
Mount the Lens in a can or mailing-tube jacket (Fig. 343). If you use a can, remove the bottom. If the lens is smaller in diameter, make a band of cardboard strips to fit around the edge, as shown in Fig. 344, and glue these strips to the inside of the can or mailing-tube. The lens jacket should fit loosely enough in the reflectoscope box opening so it will slide back and forth for focusing. Make a tin collar to fit around the jacket, and tack it to the front of the box, to prevent light from escaping (Fig. 339).
Before putting on the back of the reflectoscope box,
Putty up all Cracks between the boards in the top and front, to make the box light-tight; then
=Paint the Inside of the Box= and the cover boards with lamp-black thinned with turpentine, so there will be no reflections other than those produced by the lamp reflectors and the picture.
Figs. 343 and 344.—Details of Lens Mounting.
Fig. 345.—View of Back of Reflectoscope.
Fig. 346.—Detail of Post Card Holder.
Nail the Back Boards in Place, leaving an opening about 7 inches square directly opposite the lens. Cut a piece of board to fit this opening (E, Fig. 345) for
The Picture Holder, and hinge it in place. A frame for post cards to slide in should be fastened to the picture holder, as shown in Fig. 346. First nail strips F to board E, then tack strips G to them so their edges project over strips F. A little wooden button (H, Fig. 345) will fasten the holder board shut while each picture is being projected.
The Lens Reverses Pictures in projecting them, and in order to have them projected right-side up on the screen it is necessary to slip them into the holder frame upside down.
Adjustments. After you have built your reflectoscope, you may find it does not throw sharply-defined images upon your projection screen. In that case you must readjust the focus of the lens, the curve of the lamp reflectors, and the distance between the lens and the projection screen, until the best possible results are obtained. Inasmuch as the positions will vary with different lenses, it is impossible for me to give any hard and fast measurements. You will have to determine the distances yourself.
The stronger the light, the brighter the projected image will be; therefore, use the strongest light you can get, and place the lantern not more than five feet away from the screen.
Unless you use an anastigmat lens such as the better grade of cameras are fitted with, you will discover that the corners of pictures are indistinct when you have brought the centers to a sharp focus. This indistinctness can be corrected to a great extent by blocking out the holder to curve the post cards and other pictures so that the ends are closer to the lens than the center is.
A
Airships," clockwork "flying, 102.
Animal targets for toy shooting gallery, 142.
Apartment building, doll, 165.
Automobile, clockwork, 104.
Automobile delivery wagon, clockwork, 112;
cigar-box, 192.
B
Baby carriage, doll, 196.
Ballast, toy elevator, 63.
Balusters, doll-house stairway, 154.
Battery, a bi-chromate of potash, 135.
Bead portieres, doll-house, 157.
Beds, doll-house, 183, 187.
Bi-chromate battery fluid, 136.
Boat, toy motor-, 33.
Box-kite, 12.
Bridle, Malay kite, 12;
box-kite, 16.
Buzz-saw whirligig, 71.
C
Cables, toy elevator, 61, 69;
electro-magnet derrick, 123.
Cardboard toys, 196.
Carpets, doll-house, 157.
Carriage, doll baby, 196.
Cars, toy railway, 50;
gondola, 52;
street, 52;
other forms of, 56;
elevator, 60, 68, 150;
Ferris wheel, 99.
Cart, cigar-box, 192;
cardboard, 199.
Chairs, cigar-box, 176, 194, 195;
cardboard, 203.
Chauffeur for clockwork automobile, 111.
Cigar-boxes, to prepare, for use, 175.
Cigar-box toys, 191.
Clock, a grandfather's, 182.
Clock wheel top, 81.
Clockwork automobile, 104.
Clockwork automobile delivery wagon, 112.
Clockwork Ferris wheel, 96.
Clockwork "flying airships," 102.
Clockwork merry-go-round, 89.
Clockwork motors, 89, 97;
increasing speed of, 103.
Clockwork railway, 116.
Clockwork toys, 88.
Clog-dancer, toy, 72.
Control, toy elevator, 65.
Cosey-corner, doll-house, 158.
Counter-balance, 61, 69.
Cradle, doll's, 195.
Cricket-rattle, 75.
Curtains, doll-house, 157.
D
Decorating, doll-house, 156;
doll apartment, 173.
Delivery-wagon, clockwork automobile, 112;
cigar-box, 192.
Derrick, electro-magnet, 117.
Doll apartment building, 165.
Doll-house, 145;
furnishing the, 156.
Dresser, doll, 185, 189.
E
Egg-beater motor-winder, 31.
Electrical toys, 117.
Electric motor truck, toy, 132.
Electro-magnet, 118.
Electro-magnet derrick, 117.
Elevator, model aeroplane, 25.
Elevators, toy, 59.
Elevator, toy office building, 59;
an outdoor, 67;
doll-house, 148.
Enlarging by squares, 175.
Express-wagon, cigar-box, 192.
F
Feed-hoist, toy stable, 163.
Feed-troughs, toy stable, 162.
Ferris wheel, clockwork, 96.
Fin, model aeroplane, 26.
Fireplace, doll apartment, 171.
Fixtures, doll apartment lighting, 171.
Floors, toy office building, 59;
hardwood, for doll-house, 157.
"Flying airships," clockwork, 102.
Flying-line for kites, 12.
Folding-bed, doll, 61.
Furniture, cigar-box, 174, 194;
cardboard, 203.
Fuselage, model aeroplane, 22.
G
Gable-ends, doll-house, 151;
toy stable, 161.
Garage, toy (_see_ Stable).
Gondola car, 52.
Grandfather's clock, 182.
Guides, toy elevator, 61, 69, 150.
H
Hand-rail, doll-house stairway, 153.
Horses for merry-go-round, cardboard, 86, 92.
House, doll-, 145;
furnishing the doll-, 156;
doll apartment, 165;
furniture for doll-, 174, 194, 203.
I
Induction-coil, 126.
Interrupter, shocking-machine, 129.
J
Jack-in-the-box, cigar-box, 193.
Jumping-Jack, 74.
Jumping-Jack operated by windmill, 7.
K
Kite, a Malay, 9;
a box-, 12.
Kite-reel, a hand, 17;
a body, 19.
L
Launching a model aeroplane, 31.
Lighting fixtures, doll apartment, 171.
M
Magnet, electro-, 118.
Mail-bag, toy, 209.
Mail-box, toy, 205.
Malay kite, 9.
Mantel, doll apartment, 171.
Mechanical toys, 71.
Merry-go-round, top, 85; clockwork, 89;
cardboard, 201.
Mirror, doll-house, 181.
Mission furniture, doll, 174.
Model aeroplane, 21;
propellers for, 27;
motors for, 29;
motor-winder for, 31;
launching a, 31.
Motor-boat, toy, 33.
Motors, clockwork, 89, 97;
increasing speed of, 103.
Motors, model aeroplane, 29;
winder for, 31.
Motors, water-(_see_ Water-motor).
Motor, toy motor-boat, 37.
Motor truck, toy electric, 132.
Motor-winder, egg-beater, 31.
N
Newel-post, doll-house stairway, 153.
O
Office building elevator, toy, 59.
P
Partitions, toy office building, 60;
doll-house, 145;
stable stall, 162.
Pictures, doll-house, 158.
Pinion-wheel windmill, 2.
Pinwheel, a paper, 1.
Pistol, toy, card-shooting, 143.
Planes, model aeroplane, 24.
Portieres, doll-house, 157.
Post-office with mail-box, to play, 209.
Primary coil, induction-coil, 127.
Propeller-shaft, model aeroplane, 29;
toy motor-boat, 35.
Propellers, model aeroplane, 27.
Propeller, toy motor-boat, 35.
Pulley-wheel, 42, 45, 62, 151.
R
Race-track, spinning-top, 82.
Railway, toy, 47;
trolley-line for, 47;
power for, 49;
tracks for, 50;
cars for, 50;
gondola car for, 52;
street car for, 52;
other cars for, 56;
operation of, 56;
station for, 57;
clockwork, 116.
Rattle, cricket, 75.
Reel, a hand kite-, 17;
a body kite-, 19.
Reflectoscope, 210.
Riders for merry-go-round, 86, 94.
Risers, doll-house stairway, 153.
Rugs, doll-house, 157.
Rug-tack top, 82.
S
Secondary-coil, induction-coil, 127.
Settee, doll, 178.
Shocking machine, 124.
Shoe-polish can top, 83.
Shooting gallery, toy, 140.
Side-board, doll, 180.
Sleighs for merry-go-round, cardboard, 93.
Sofa, doll, 203.
Spinning-top race-track, 82.
Spiral top, 85.
Spool and cardboard toys, 196.
Spool top, 82.
Stable, toy, 160.
Station for toy railway, 57.
Straw portieres, doll-house, 158.
Street car, toy, 52.
Swing, doll, 202.
Switch, electro-magnet derrick, 121.
T
Tables, cigar-box, 179, 180, 194;
cardboard, 204.
Tack top, 82.
Targets, toy shooting gallery, 142.
Teeter-board, 201.
Thrust bearings, 23, 35.
Top, clockwork, 81;
rug-tack, 82;
spool, 82;
spinning, racetrack, 82;
shoe-polish can, 83;
spiral, 85;
merry-go-round, 85.
Tops, 79.
Track, spinning-top race, 82.
Tracks, toy railway, 50.
Treads, doll-house stairway, 153.
Trolley-line, toy railway, 47.
Troughs, toy stable feed-, 162.
Truck, toy electric motor, 132.
Turtle toy, 76.
V
Varnish-can water-motor, 38.
W
Wagon, cigar-box express-, 192.
Wardrobe, doll, 190.
Wash-stand, doll, 186.
Water-motor, a varnish-can, 38;
another form of, 42.
Wheel, clockwork Ferris, 96.
Wheel, water-motor, 39, 43.
Whirligig, a buzz-saw, 71.
Winder, model aeroplane motor-, 31.
Windlass, electro-magnet derrick, 123.
Windmill, a paper, 1;
a pinion-wheel, 12;
a four-blade, 4;
an eight-blade, 5;
jumping-Jack operated by a, 7.
Window-shades, doll-house, 157.