Every attempt has been made to replicate the original book as printed. Some typographical errors have been corrected. (see list following the text.) No attempt has been made to correct or normalize the printed accentuation of names or words in French.
(etext transcriber’s note)

enlarge-image

ON THE CHAMPS ÉLYSÉES.

enlarge-image

OLD AND NEW PARIS

Its History, its People, and its Places

BY
H. SUTHERLAND EDWARDS
AUTHOR OF “IDOLS OF THE FRENCH STAGE” “THE GERMANS IN FRANCE” “THE
RUSSIANS AT HOME” ETC. ETC.

VOL. II

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS

C A S S E L L AND C O M P A N Y LIMITED
LONDON PARIS & MELBOURNE
1894
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
STREET CHARACTERS.
PAGE
The “Cocher”—The Bus-driver—The Private Coachman—The Hackney Coachman—The Public Writer—The Flower-girl—The Oyster-woman	1
CHAPTER II.
THE ENGLISH AND AMERICANS IN PARIS.
The Englishman Abroad—M. Lemoinne’s Analysis—The Englishwoman—Sunday in London and in Paris—Americans in Paris—The American Girl	9
CHAPTER III.
MORE PARISIAN TYPES.
The Spy—Under Sartines and Berryer—Fouché—Delavau—The Present System—The Écuyère—The Circus in Paris	17
CHAPTER IV.
THE DOMESTIC.
The French Servant, as described by Léon Gozlan and by Mercier—The Cook and the Cordon Bleu—The Valet	20
CHAPTER V.
PARISIAN CHARACTERISTICS.
Parisian Characteristics—Gaiety, Flippancy Wit—A String of Favourite Anecdotes	24
CHAPTER VI.
THE STREETS.
The Arrangement of the Streets—System of Numbering the Houses—Street Nomenclature—Street Lamps—The Various Kinds of Vehicles in Use	28
CHAPTER VII.
THE SEINE AND ITS BRIDGES.—THE MORGUE.
The Various Bridges over the Seine—Their Histories—The Morgue—Some Statistics	33
CHAPTER VIII.
THE REFORMATION IN PARIS.
D’Étaples, the Pioneer of the Reformation—Nicolas Cop and Calvin—Progress of the Reformation—Persecutions—Catharine de Médicis—St. Bartholomew’s—The Edict of Nantes	36
CHAPTER IX.
THE UNIVERSITY OF PARIS AND THE COLLEGE OF FRANCE.
The French Educational System—Lycées and Collèges—The University of Paris—The College of France	44
CHAPTER X.
THE SORBONNE.
Robert de Sorbonne—The Sorbonne, its Origin and History—Richelieu—The Revolution—The New Sorbonne—Mercier’s Views	49
CHAPTER XI.
THE INSTITUTE.
The Institute—Its Unique Character—The Objects of its Projectors—Its Constitution	53
CHAPTER XII.
THE ACADÉMIE FRANÇAISE.
The Académie Française—Its Foundation by Richelieu—Its Constitution—The “Forty-first Chair”	55
CHAPTER XIII.
THE PANTHÉON.
The Church of Clovis—The Church of Sainte-Geneviève—France in the Thirteenth Century—The Building of the New Church under Louis XV.—Mirabeau and the Constituent Assembly—The Church of Sainte-Geneviève becomes the Panthéon.	59
CHAPTER XIV.
THE POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL.
The “Central School of Public Works”—Bonaparte and the Polytechnic—The College of Navarre—Formal Inauguration in 1805—1816—1830	67
CHAPTER XV.
THE HÔTEL CLUNY.
The Rue des Carmes—Comte de Mun and the Catholic Workmen’s Club—The Place Maubert—The Palais des Thermes—The Hôtel Cluny—Its History—Its Art Treasures	71
CHAPTER XVI.
THE MUSÉE D’ARTILLERIE.
The Museum of Artillery—Its Origin and History—The Growth of its Collection of Armour and Weapons of all Kinds	83
CHAPTER XVII.
THE VAL DE GRÂCE—RELICS OF THE GREAT.
The Deaf and Dumb Institution—The Val de Grâce—Hearts as Relics—Royal Funerals—The Church of Saint-Denis	89
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE CATACOMBS: THE OBSERVATORY.
Origin of the Catacombs—The Quarries of Mont Souris—The Observatory—Marshal Ney—The School of Medicine	99
CHAPTER XIX.
THE ODÉON: THE LUXEMBURG PALACE.
The Odéon—Its History—Erection of the Present Building in 1799—Marie de Médicis and the Luxemburg Palace—The Judicial Annals of the Luxemburg—Trials of Fieschi and Louvel—Trial of Louis Napoleon—Trial of the Duc de Praslin	109
CHAPTER XX.
THE PRISONS OF PARIS.
La Santé—La Roquette—The Conciergerie—The Mazas—Sainte-Pélagie—Saint-Lazare—Prison Regulations	131
CHAPTER XXI.
THE PARIS ZOO.
The Jardin des Plantes—Its Origin and History—Under Buffon—The Museum of Natural History—The Tobacco Factory	147
CHAPTER XXII.
SOME HISTORICAL BUILDINGS.
Abailard and Héloise—Fulbert’s House in the Rue des Chantres—The Philip Augustus Towers—The Hôtel Barbette—The Hôtel de Sens	156
CHAPTER XXIII.
THE MONT-DE-PIÉTÉ.
“Uncle” and “Aunt”—Organisation of the Mont-de-Piété—Its Various Branches—Its Warehouses and Sale-rooms	160
CHAPTER XXIV.
PARIS MARKETS.
The Halles-Centrales—The Cattle Markets—Agriculture in France—The French Peasant	166
CHAPTER XXV.
SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS.
Its Origin and History—Its Library—Its Organ—Saint-Sulpice	170
CHAPTER XXVI.
PRINTING IN PARIS—THE CENSORSHIP.
Rue Visconti—Historical Buildings—The National School of Roads and Bridges—The Introduction of Printing into Paris—The First Printing Establishments—The Censorship	174
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE HÔTEL DES INVALIDES.
A Glance at its History—Louis XIV. and Mme. de Maintenon—The Pensioners—Their Characteristics and Mode of Life	185
CHAPTER XXVIII.
SOME MORE PARIS HOSPITALS.
The French Hospital System—The Laënnec Hospital—The Houses of Assistance—The Quinze-Vingts—Deaf and Dumb Institutions—The Abbé de l’Épée—La Charité	193
CHAPTER XXIX.
LUNATIC ASYLUMS AND MIXED INSTITUTIONS.
The Treatment of Lunacy in the Past—La Salpêtrière—Bicêtre—The Story of Latude—The Four Sergeants of La Rochelle—Pinel’s Reforms—Charenton	207
CHAPTER XXX.
THE RIVER BIÈVRE AND THE MANUFACTORY OF THE GOBELINS.
The Brothers Gobelin—Lebrun—The Gobelins under Louis XIV.—At the Time of the Revolution—The Manufactory of Sèvres	225
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE PALAIS BOURBON.
The Palais Bourbon—Its History—The National Convention—Philippe Égalité	231
CHAPTER XXXII.
SOME HISTORICAL RESIDENCES.
The Palace of the Legion of Honour—The Ministry of War—The Rue de Grenelle—Talleyrand	236
CHAPTER XXXIII.
THE RUE TARANNE AND DIDEROT.
Diderot’s Early Life in Paris—His Love Affairs—Imprisonment in the Château de Vincennes—Diderot and Catherine II. of Russia—His Death	242
CHAPTER XXXIV.
MONSEIGNEUR AFFRE AND THE INSURRECTION OF JUNE.
The Courtyard of the Dragon—The National Workshops—The Insurrection of June—Monseigneur Affre Shot at the Barricade of the Faubourg St. Antoine	247
CHAPTER XXXV.
SOME OCCUPANTS OF MONTPARNASSE.
The Boulevard Montparnasse—The Cemetery—Father Loriquet—Hégésippe Moreau—Sainte-Beuve	250
CHAPTER XXXVI.
SPORTS AND DIVERSIONS.
Le “Sport”—Longchamps—Versailles Races—Fontainebleau—The Seine—Swimming Baths—The Art of Book-collecting	254
CHAPTER XXXVII.
FENCING SCHOOLS.
Fencing in France—A National Art—Some Extracts from the Writings of M. Legouvé, One of its Chief Exponents—The Old Style of Fencing and the New	257
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
PETTY TRADES.
Petty Trades—Their Origins—The Day-Banker—The Guardian Angel—The Old-Clothesman—The Claque—Its First Beginning and Development	259
CHAPTER XXXIX.
OBSOLETE PARIS SHOPS.
The Old Wooden Stalls of Forty Years Ago—The “Lucky Fork”—The Cobbler’ Shops—The Old Cafés	265
CHAPTER XL.
THE PARIS PRESS.
French Governments and the Press—The Press under Napoleon—Some Account of the Leading Paris Papers—The Figaro	268
CHAPTER XLI.
FROM THE QUAI VOLTAIRE TO THE PANTHÉON.
The Quai Voltaire—Its Changes of Name—Voltaire—His Life in Paris and Elsewhere—His Remains laid in the Panthéon—Mirabeau—Rousseau—Vincennes	273
CHAPTER XLII.
THE PALAIS MAZARIN AND THE RUE MAZARINE.
The Institute or Palais Mazarin—The Rue Mazarine—L’Illustre Théâtre—Molière—The Theatre Français—The Odéon—Heine—The Faubourg Saint-Germain—Historical Associations	288
CHAPTER XLIII.
THE PARIS RIVER AND PARIS COMMERCE.
The Society of the Water-Merchants of Paris—The Navigation of the Seine—The Paris Slaughter-Houses—Records of Famine in France—The Lot of the French Peasant in the Last Century—The Paris Food Supply	307
CHAPTER XLIV.
THE BARRIERS—PARISIAN CRIME.
The Approaches to Paris—The French Railway System—The St. Germain Railway—The Erection of the Barriers—Some of the most famous Barriers—Parisian Crime—Its Special Characteristics	317
CHAPTER XLV.
PARISIAN MENDICANCY—THE PARIS POOR.
Parisian Mendicancy in the Sixteenth Century—The General Hospital—Louis XV. and the Beggars—The Revolution—Mendicancy as a Regular Profession—The Organ-grinders and the Trade in Italian Children—The French Treatment of the Poor—Asylums, Almshouses, and Retreats—The Droit des Pauvres—The Cost of the Poor	324
CHAPTER XLVI.
VERSAILLES.
Derivation of the Name—Saint-Simon’s Description—Louis XIV.—The Grand Fête of July, 1668—Peter the Great and the Regent—Louis XV.—Marie Antoinette and the “Affair of the Necklace”—The Events of October, 1789	338
CHAPTER XLVII.
VERSAILLES AND THE SIEGE OF PARIS.
The Advance on Paris—Preparations for the Siege—General Trochu—The Francs-Tireurs—The Siege	348
CHAPTER XLVIII.
VERSAILLES AND THE COMMUNE.
The Communists or Communards—The “Internationale”—Bismarck and the National Guard—The Municipal Elections—The Insurrection—Thiers—Paris during the Commune—Concluding Remarks	355
INDEX: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, Y

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

[xxxxIllustrations have been moved from within paragraphs for ease of reading.
(note of e-text transcriber.)]

PAGE
On the Champs Élysées	Frontispiece
Outside a Railway Station in Paris	1
Waiting for a Fare	3
Omnibus Coachman	4
Private Coachman	4
Hackney Coachman	5
Hearse Coachman	5
An Invitation to a “Petit Verre”	6
Street Scene	8
In the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne at Night	9
In the Flower Market	13
After the Theatre	16
At the Salon	17
A Fair	21
A Café Chantant	24
Parisian Types—In the Barracks	25
Parisian Types—In Search of Cigar-ends	29
A Paris Omnibus	31
Street Scene	32
Eastern End of Île de la Cité	facing 33
Austerlitz Bridge	35
On the Saint-Martin Canal	36
The Solferino Bridge, from the Quai d’Orsay	37
The National Bridge	40
The Right Arm of the Seine from Boulevard Henri IV	41
The College of France	44
The Lycée Voltaire	45
The Lycée Charlemagne	47
The Lycée Condorcet	48
The Court of the Sorbonne	49
Façade of the New Sorbonne	51
The Church of the Sorbonne	52
The Dome of the Panthéon, Spire of St. Étienne du Mont, and Tour de Clovis	57
The Panthéon, from the Luxemburg Gardens	60
Place du Panthéon	61
Well in the Courtyard, Cluny Museum	facing 65
Interior of the Panthéon	65
Library of Sainte-Geneviève	68
St. Stephen-of-the-Mount	69
Interior of Church of St. Stephen-of-the-Mount	70
The Chapel of the Ancient College of the Lombards	72
Place Maubert, with the Statue of Étienne Dolet	73
Patrons of the Chateau Rouge	75
Rue de Bièvre	75
Ruins of the Palais des Thermes	76
Entrance to the Cluny Museum, Rue du Sammerard	77
Staircase, Cluny Museum	80
Dormer Windows at the Cluny Museum	81
Group of Shafted Weapons in the Artillery Museum	84
Decorated Spanish Cannon in the Artillery Museum	85
Decorated Muskets in the Artillery Museum	85
The Deaf and Dumb Institution	89
Elm Tree in the Court of Honour at the Deaf and Dumb Institution	92
Statue of the Abbé de l’Épée at the Deaf and Dumb Institution	93
The Val de Grâce from the Rue de la Santé	96
View from the Pont de la Concorde	facing 97
Entrance to the Observatory	100
The Gardens of the Observatory, Boulevard Arago	101
Place de l’Observatoire	104
School of Drawing, Rue l’École de Médecine	105
Statue of Marshal Ney	105
School of Medicine	107
New Wing of the School of Medicine	107
Hôtel du Cheval Blanc	108
Rue de l’Odéon	109
Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie	109
Odéon Theatre	111
The Luxemburg Palace: the Garden Façade	112
The Luxemburg Palace from the Terrace	112
The Senate Chamber	113
Entrance Court, Luxemburg Palace	115
Grand Avenue, Luxemburg Gardens	115
Sculpture Gallery, Luxemburg Palace	116
Salle des Fêtes, Luxemburg Palace	117
The Central Fountain, Luxemburg Gardens	119
Façade of the Ancient Chapel of the Daughters of Calvary, Luxemburg	120
Listening to the Band in the Luxemburg Gardens	121
The Marie de Médicis Grotto and Fountain	124
Back of the Marie de Médicis Fountain	125
Fremiel-Carpeaux Fountain, Luxemburg Gardens	126
The Luxemburg Museum	128
The Hôtel de Sens	facing 129
The Mineralogical Museum	129
Prison of La Santé	132
Inside the Walls of La Santé	132
The Common Quarter, La Santé—“The Parlour”	133
Interior of La Santé	135
Gaolers’ Mess-room, La Santé	136
Entrance to La Grande Roquette	137
Warders’ Room and adjoining Courtyard, La Grande Roquette	140
Chapel, La Grande Roquette	141
The Chapel-school, La Petite Roquette	143
The Political Quarter, Sainte-Pélagie	144
The Courtyard, Saint-Lazare	145
Buffon	148
The Carnivora Section, Jardin des Plantes	149
Entrance to Hothouses, Jardin des Plantes	149
Marabout Storks in the Jardin des Plantes	151
The Polar Bear in the Jardin des Plantes	151
The Bear-pit, Jardin des Plantes	152
Dromedary in the Jardin des Plantes	153
Llama in the Jardin des Plantes	155
Rue des Chantres, looking towards Notre-Dame	156
Site of the House of Abailard and Héloise, Rue des Chantres	157
Rue des Chantres, looking towards the Quai	158
Portion of the Façade, Musée Carnavalet	159
The Opera House	facing 161
Entrance to the Mont-de-Piété, Chaussée d’Antin	161
The Jewellery Stores, Rue des Blancs Manteaux	163
In the Rue de Capron Branch of the Mont-de-Piété	164
The Sale-room of the Mont-de-Piété, Rue des Blancs Manteaux	165
Rue de Tournon, with the Façade of the Senate House	168
The Saint-Germain Market	169
The Tower of Saint-Germain-des-Prés	171
Saint-Germain-des-Prés	172
The Side Entrance to Saint-Germain-des-Prés	173
The Rue de l’Abbaye	174
Saint-Sulpice and Apsis of Saint-Sulpice	176
Fountain, Place Saint-Sulpice	177
The Garden, School of Fine Arts	180
The Arc de Gaillon, School of Fine Arts	181
Courtyard, School of Fine Arts	181
A Façade on the Quai Malaquais	182
Street Scene	184
Hôtel des Invalides	185
Dome of the Hôtel des Invalides	186
Dormer Window on the Façade, Hôtel des Invalides	187
The Court of Honour, Hôtel des Invalides	187
Invalides	188
Tomb of Napoleon	189
Entrance to the Tomb of Napoleon	191
Street Scene	192
Latude recognises D’Aligre	facing 193
The Laennec Hospital, Rue de Sèvres	193
The Children’s Hospital, Rue de Sèvres	195
The Blind School: in the Work-room	196
Attendants’ Room in a Paris Hospital	197
La Charité	198
Hospital on the Boulevard du Pont Royal	199
Entrance to the St. Louis Hospital	200
Courtyard of the St. Louis Hospital	200
A Ward in the St. Louis Hospital	201
The Repairing Room, St. Louis Hospital	201
The Tenon Hospital	203
Nurse Pupils at the Maternity Hospital	204
The Maternity Hospital	205
Font at the Maternity Hospital	205
Hôspital de la Pitié	206
Façade of the Main Buildings, Salpêtrière	208
The Mazarin Ward, Salpêtrière	209
Place de Conseil, Salpêtrière	212
The Park, Salpêtrière	213
The Village, Salpêtrière	216
The Lunatics’ Quarter, Salpêtrière	217
The Chapel, Salpêtrière	220
The Bicêtre, 1710 (After Gueroult)	221
Dinner-Time at Bicêtre	224
Entrance to Bicêtre	224
The Bièvre	facing 225
Avenue des Gobelins	226
The Bièvre in the Gardens of the Gobelins	227
The Old Buildings of the Gobelins	228
In the Gardens of the Gobelins	228
Interior of the Gobelins	229
A Street in the Neighbourhood of the Gobelins	230
Façade of the Chamber of Deputies on Place du Palais Bourbon	232
Chamber of Deputies from the Quai d’Orsay	233
Ruins of the Palace of the Council of State, Quai d’Orsay	237
Palace of the Legion of Honour	238
The Ministry of War	240
Fountain in the Rue de Grenelle	241
Grimm and Diderot	244
Statue of Diderot, Boulevard St.-Germain, facing the Rue St.-Benoit	245
Entrance to the Courtyard of the Dragon	248
Courtyard of the Dragon	249
The Montparnasse Station	253
Second-hand Bookstalls	256
The Bureau de Bienfaisance Asylum at Vincennes: (1) The Façade. (2) The Bowling Green	facing 257
Old-Clothes Dealer	260
Le Débarcadère des Bateaux-Omnibus: Vendors of Refreshments	261
Snow Scene	267
Bookstalls on the Quai Voltaire	268
Édmond About	272
The late Albert Wolff, of the Figaro	273
Statue of Voltaire,	277
The Pont du Carrousel and the Louvre, from the Quai Malaquais	280
The Seine, between the City and the Quai des Augustines	281
Jean Jacques Rousseau	284
Madame D’Épinay	285
A Night Refuge in the Vaugirard Quarter	facing 289
Cardinal Mazarin	289
Entrance to the Hôtel de Chateaubriand, in the Faubourg St. Germain	293
The Bridge, Place, and Boulevard St. Michel	296
The St. Michel Fountain	297
The Castle of Chambord	301
Porte aux Pommes: Fruit-boats on the Seine	304
Porte aux Pommes	305
The Villette Abbatoirs	309
A Seine Steamboat	312
The Seine at Grenelle	313
The Chapelle Saint Denis Barrier	317
The Octroi Barriers of Petit-Château and Grand-Bercy	320
Versailles: the Façade and the Great Fountain	facing 321
Tram at the Barrier	321
Street Scene	324
Asylum for Women, Rue Fessart: The Refectory	329
A “Bureau de Bienfaisance”	332
A Night Refuge	333
Pensioners of “L’Assistance Publique”	335, 336
Versailles (from an old print)	341
The Colonnade of Versailles	344
The Gallery of Battles, Versailles	345
General Trochu	349
Map of the Fortifications at the Siege of Paris	352
The Prussians Entering Paris	facing 353
Prince Bismarck	355
M. Thiers	357
Marshal MacMahon	360

{Page 1}

The Project Gutenberg eBook of Old and New Paris: Its History, Its People, and Its Places, v. 2

OLD AND NEW PARIS Its History, its People, and its Places

CONTENTS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

OLD AND NEW PARIS

Its History, its People, and its Places