Digitàlis, Fox-glove, about forty species of annuals and herbaceous plants. A few are cultivated in the flower borders, and are very showy. These are D. leucophæa, D. ferrugínea, D. ochroleùca, large yellow; and D. purpuráscens; and are good species. D. purpúrea and D. álba, are very conspicuous biennials; the flowers are solitary, and in long spikes; the corolla of D. purpúrea is campanulate, ventricose, and ringent; the interior is spotted, and is considered the finest of the genus. Delights in poor soil, with a little shade.
Eupatóriums. These generally are native plants, not worthy of notice here, except for two species. E. cœlestínum has syngenesious flowers in flattened panicles, colour fine light blue, blooming from September to November, desirable for its beauty at that season. E. aromàticum may be cultivated for its spicy odour; flowers white, in loose terminale panicles; blooming from August to October. Either of them will grow in common soil.
Gentiánas, a genus of very showy plants, and flower in great abundance. The flowers are tubular and inflated; colour generally blue. A few species are yellow, and some white; flowers in whorls, terminale, or solitary. They grow best in a light rich soil. G. lútea, G. purpúrea, G. septémfida. G. acaúlis is a pretty dwarf growing species, and often used as edgings in flower compartments; the flower dark and light blue; interior of the corolla spotted; has a succession of flower from April to June. We have no doubt of it succeeding in our gardens, but not being plentiful, it has not been perfectly tried. A few years will exhibit it in abundance. G. imbricàta and G. conférta. They are all fine exotics, but many of them may give place to our native species, such as G. Catesbæí; G. ochroleúca; G. incarnàta; with several others, and G. crinàta, which is a biennial, and finely fringed; colour light blue.
Gèum. There are only two species that are worth cultivation, viz. G. quéllyon, once G. coccíneum; and G. hybridum. G. urbànum is sometimes cultivated for its roots, which, when chewed, sweeten the breath. They are all of easy culture. G. quéllyon flowers from May to October, and is a very desirable small plant for the borders, and much esteemed in Europe.
Hemerocállis, Day Lily; two species, H. fúlva and H. gramínea, flower well, and are remarkable among the border flowers for their large yellow or copper coloured corollas, some of them about six inches diameter; bloom from May to July, and will grow in almost any soil. There is a plant known in our gardens as H. cærùlea, which is Fúnkia cærùlea, and has a campanulate corolla, with a cylindrical tube; flowers in spikes; leaves ovate, accuminate.
Hibíscus. There are several herbaceous species very showy and handsome, H. palústris; H. ròseus; H. militàris; H. speciòsus; H. grandiflòrus; and H. púngens. They grow best in moist situations, and where these are not to be had, give them plenty of water, and plant in sandy soil enriched with decayed leaves. The flowers are about six inches in diameter, flowering up the stem, either solitary or in small bunches. H. speciòsus is the most splendid, and deserves a situation in every garden. The roots in winter ought to be covered by litter, tan, or saw dust; but a better method is to lift them, and put them in the cellar, covered with dry earth, and kept from the frost. All the above mentioned species are improved by being protected during winter.
Iris, Flower-de-luce, has many fine species of various shades and colours, I. subiflòra, I. nepalénsis, I. Pallàsii, I. pállida, I. cristàta, I. arenària, I. furcàta, I. germánica, I. florentìna, I. vérna, and I. susiàna. The last is the finest of the herbaceous species; the flowers are striped, blue, brown, and spotted; but we are not certain if it will stand the severity of our winters. The roots of I. florentìna is the orrice root of the druggists. They are all of easy culture in any loamy soil inclining to moisture. The bulbous species will be treated of in September or October. Corolla six-petaled, three erect, and three reclined alternately; proceeding from spathes or sheaths with flowers in succession.
Lìatris is a genus of native plants, containing several fine species, L. squarròsa, large purple heads of beautiful flowers; L. élegans; L. paniculàta. L. macróstachya, now L. spicàta, is a fine large growing species. They have syngenesious purple flowers in long close spikes, differing from other spiked flowering genera by blooming first at the extremity. They grow best in strong heavy soil.
Lychnis. Three species are very desirable in the flower borders. L. chalcedónica has bright scarlet crowned flowers; the double scarlet variety is splendid. There is also a double white variety, L. fúlgens and L. flós-jòvis. They ought to be frequently lifted, and planted afresh, or they will dwindle to nothing. The best time is when they begin to grow. There is a plant known in our collections as Lychnis flós-cucùla, which is now Agrostéma flós-cucùla; it is a fine and showy border plant with double red flowers. They delight in a light sandy rich soil.
Lythrums. A few species flower well, and have small pink blossoms in great profusion, L. alàtum, L. virgàtum, L. diffùsum, and L. lanceolàtum. They will grow in any common garden soil if not too much shaded; and flower from June to September.
Mimùlus, Monkey-flower. A few species may be cultivated. They will grow in any soil or situation. M. lùteus and M. rivulàris are the best. M. moschàtus has a very strong musk scent, to many agreeable. We think it will prove hardy. The two former have large gaping flowers, of a gold yellow, and beautifully spotted with purple in the interior.
Monárdas, a fine native genus and showy. The foliage of several of the species is aromatic, and resembles mint. M. dídyma has long scarlet ringent flowers, in headed whorls; M. kalmiana, flowers very long, and a beautiful crimson, with fragrant leaves. M. Russelliana has red and white flowers; curious and handsome. M. punctata has yellow and red flowers; they grow in any common soil.
Mathíola, is the generic of the Stock-gilly. None of them will survive severe winters; yet many of them are indispensable in the Flower-garden. M. simplicicáulis, Brompton-stock, and its varieties; with M. incàna, Queen-stock, and its varieties, require the protection of a good frame in winter, and about the end of this month, or beginning of next, plant them in good light rich soil to flower, which they will do all summer, if attended to with frequent supplies of water. M. ánnua has about sixteen varieties, valuable for flowering the first year from seed, and are all annuals. They ought to be sown on a gentle hot-bed about the first of this month, and carefully pricked out so as they may be ready to transplant about the end of April or the first of May. Plant them in light rich soil, and they will flower profusely through the season; if it is very dry, they must be watered to keep them growing. The scarlet, white, and purple varieties are the finest; but there are many intermediate sorts all handsome. M. glàbra is the Wall-flower leaved stock, and requires the same treatment as the two former. There are about eight varieties of this, all various in colour. In planting any of these into the open ground, choose cloudy weather, except they have been in pots; in such case, plant at any time in beds, keeping each kind separate.
Œnothèras. The most of them are indigenous, and in Europe they afford a continual ornament to the Flower-garden from April to November, but in our gardens they are entirely neglected. By rejecting these and many others, our Flower-gardens are deprived both of much beauty and interest they might easily possess. These plants delight in light rich soil. Œ. odoràta, sweet scented; Œ. macrocárpa; Œ. mèdia; Œ. latiflòra; Œ. Frazèri; Œ. speciòsa; and Œ. pállida; are all fine native herbaceous plants, mostly with large yellow four-petaled corollas; in bloom from April to September. There are several of them beautiful annual and biennial plants. For the finest, see list.
Phlóx, another American genus, and one of the most handsome in cultivation. It consists of elegant border flowers, valuable for flowering early, and more so for blossoming late in autumn. While the majority of plants blooming late in the season are generally syngenesious, with yellow flowers, these delight us with their lively colours of purple, red, and white. A collection of them properly attended to, would of themselves constitute a beautiful flower garden. It will be difficult to state which are the finest, but the following are select varieties: P. paniculàta; P. acuminàta; P. intermèdia; P. odoràta; P. pyramidàlis; with pyramidàlis álba, which is splendid; P. suavèolens; P. refléxa; P. stolonífera; P. pilòsa; P. divaricàta; P. nivàlis; and P. subulàta. In the spring of 1831, an eminent British collector[A] exclaimed, on seeing a patch of P. subulàta in one of the pine barrens of New Jersey, "The beauty of that alone is worth coming to America to see, it is so splendid." Most of the species delight in a rich light sandy loam. When the plants become large, they ought to be divided, and planted in fresh ground.
[A] Mr. Drummond.
Prímulas, Primrose. To this genus belong the celebrated Cowslip, Oxlip, Primrose, and the esteemed Aurícula. The double varieties of Primrose have originated from P. vulgàris. These are such as carry their flowers on separate pedicles, rising from the root on a small stem. The double varieties are desirable for their beauty, but require the protection of a frame during winter. They are in colour red, white, yellow, lilac, purple, and crimson. P. elàtior is the Oxlip, from which all the Polyánthuses have been grown. They are in variety innumerable, and are those whose flowers are in umbels, on a scape or flower-stalk, rising from three to nine inches. The rules for judging of their merits are wholly artificial, agreed on from time to time by Florists. The one that is the leading beauty this year would in a few years be far in the rear. The principal character is that the corolla is not notched or fringed; the colours pure and distinct, not running into one another; the tube small; the eye round, and a little prominent. Being surrounded with white, and the ground purple, is a fine character. P. aurícula. From this the highly esteemed varieties have originated. The cultivated aurícula has many admirers, both for its exquisite beauty and fragrance. For the criterion of a fine flower see May. There are several other species worthy of a situation, such as P. cortusoídes, P. dentiflòra, P. suavèolens, P. decòra, with P. scótica and P. farinòsa, both small neat species. A shady situation agrees best with them; and they require loamy soil, free from any kind of manure, except it be fully decomposed. The leaves of P. vèris are recommended for feeding silk worms.
Potentíllas. We mention this genus here as affording several free flowering dwarf plants; not as being certain that any of the most desired species will withstand our winters, being natives of Nepaul; but, from the character of the plant, we think that they are adapted to bear severe cold. They are similar to the strawberry in habit and appearance. P. nepalénsis, or formòsa, has rose-coloured flowers; P. atropurpùrea; P. Russelliàna, scarlet; P. Hopwoodiàna, rose and scarlet; and P. spléndens, yellow, with superb leaves. These are the finest of the genus, and flower from May to September. It will be well to protect them in a frame with the Carnations; they delight in light soil.
Saponària officinàlis, and S. O. plèna, are fine free-flowering dwarf plants; the colour is pink in both double and single varieties. The roots run under ground, and care should be taken to keep them within bounds: they flower from June till October. S. cæspitòsa is a neat growing species of a rose colour. They will grow in any soil.
Silène. Several of this genus are popular annuals, but the herbaceous species are very indifferent. S. viscósa and S. viscósa flòre plèna, are frequently cultivated for their beauty; they will grow well if not too much shaded.
Saxífraga, above one hundred species. Many of them are beautiful plants for rock-work. They are regardless of cold, but will not generally withstand much moisture. A few of them are highly deserving a situation in any garden. S. hirsùtum, and S. crassifòlia, are used in some countries for tanning. S. granulàta multipléx has fine double-white flowers, and is desirable. S. umbròsa, London-pride, makes a beautiful edging for a flower border; the flowers are small, but on close examination its colours are unrivalled. It is vulgarly called, "none so pretty." S. sarmentòsa is kept in the Green-house, but is perfectly hardy, and makes a fine plant in a shaded situation. We have no doubt but it would make a good fancy edging. S. pulchélla, straw coloured, and S. pyramidàlis; these are all easily cultivated; and flower in spikes from May to July.
Spiræas. A few species are showy plants, and continue flowering from May to September. S. ulmària múltiplex, Meadow-sweet, has sweet scented white flowers, in long dense spikes. S. Filipéndula múltiplex, Drop-wort, double white. S. lobàta is a native, and has fine rose coloured flowers, in June and July; these are the finest of the herbaceous species, and will grow in any common garden soil.
Státice, Thrift. A genus containing many fine herbaceous plants, only a few of them are common in collections. The finest of them are scarce, and said to be "bad to cultivate." S. vulgàris, once Armèria vulgàris, is the most valuable plant for an edging, next to box, that the Flower-garden is possessed of, and does extremely well in our climate, flowering in great profusion from May to July. When done flowering, the stems should be cut off. The foliage is an agreeable evergreen; the plant increases rapidly, and in a few years may be planted to a great extent. S. speciòsa has red flowers, crowded in spreading panicles. S. tatàrica has also very showy flowers, and is now given to the genus Taxànthema. S. latifòlia and S. maritìma are the finest. T. latifòlia and T. conspícua deserve attention. They should be lifted every alternate year, and sunk deeper into the soil, because they incline to grow out, and are sometimes during summer killed by the drought. Hence they are said to be "bad to cultivate."
Tróllius europæus, and T. asiàticus, are fine border plants, with large yellow semi-double flowers; the petals are much cupped, which causes the flowers to have a globular appearance. They are easily grown in any loamy soil, and flower from May to July. Few flowers have the curious globular character which these have.
Verónica, Speed-well. This genus consists of about one hundred and twenty species of herbaceous plants, besides several varieties. The flowers are in long close spikes, either white, flesh coloured, or blue; they are generally of the latter colour. Above sixty species are equally fine, and being generally of the same character, the Catalogue at the end of this work will contain the best selection that we can make. Very few of them are in the collections of the country, although they are very showy, and flower from June to August. They will grow in any soil, but will not flourish where they are much shaded. V. officinàlis has been used in Germany and Sweden as a substitute for tea. Some prefer V. chamædrys for the same purpose.
Valerìanas. Several species are showy border plants, with small flowers in large close flattened panicles. V. dioíca is remarkable for having the stamens and pistils in separate flowers, situated on different plants; the flowers are of a blush colour, and the roots when planted must be protected from the cats, for they are delighted with them, and scrape them up. V. phù, a large growing species with white flowers; and V. rùbra, with its varieties, are the finest of the genus. They are now given to Centrànthus. They are all of easy culture in common garden earth, but preferring moist shady situations. In flower from May to September.
Vìola, a genus consisting of upwards of eighty species, of low pretty plants, of great diversity of colour and foliage. Many of them are natives, and well worth a situation in our gardens. They mostly delight in sandy loam, and a little shade. A few of the species grow in moist situations. The most esteemed varieties for fragrance are, V. odoràta purpúrea plèna, double purple, with V. odoràta àlba plèna, double white. They flower very early, and make good edgings where they are kept in order; flowering profusely from April to June, and flowering again in autumn.
Yúcca, Adam's-needle. This is a very showy and ornamental genus; their character forming a picturesque contrast in the Flower-garden; foliage long, narrow, lanceolate, and stiff; with white companulate flowers, about two inches in diameter, in conical spikes from two to four feet long, arising from the centre of the plant, containing frequently from two to four hundred florets. They are principally native plants. Y. strícta is the freest flowerer. Y. supérba; Y. aloifòlia; Y. angustifòlia, Y. acuminàta, Y. serrulàta, and Y. filamentòsa, are all fine species, and will grow in any common soil. When in flower, if protected from the sun by an awning, they will be of considerable duration. There are variegated varieties of Strícta, Aloifòlia, and Serrulàta, which look very handsome in foliage, but are at present very rare, and it will be a number of years before they are plentiful. There ought at least to be one specimen of some of the free-flowering species in every garden.
Having given the names and characters of a few herbaceous plants, all or most of them easily obtained, many of them extremely handsome, and such as agree best with transplanting at this season of the year; for several others, such as Pæònias, or any other strong fibrous or bulbous sorts, see September and October. Where they are in pots, they can be planted at any time, the weather permitting, provided the ball of earth is not broken. But where they are only to be removed, the best time is just as vegetation commences. That herbaceous plants may look to the best advantage, and flower well, they must not be allowed to get into large stools; but as soon as they are above one foot in diameter, they should be divided.
Very frequently those who perform this operation, take the spade, and cut a piece off all round, which to a degree improves the look of the plant; but this is only half justice. It should be lifted entirely, fresh soil given, or removed a few feet, and planted a little deeper than it was before, as the plant tends apparently to grow out of the soil when allowed to stand long. If the weather becomes dry shortly after transplanting, give them a few waterings, until they have taken fresh roots, which will be within two weeks. Colour should be diversified through the garden as much as practicable, and the highest growing sorts planted farthest from the walk, so as all may appear in view. At all times avoid crowding the plants together.
About the middle of this month, let the covering of tan, saw-dust, or decayed leaves, be cleared from the beds of such as were directed to be covered in November; afterwards carefully stirring the surface among them with a kind of wooden spatula, or wedge, breaking the surface fine; then dress all the alleys smooth and neat with the hoe and rake, clearing away every particle of litter. When the leaves of Tulips are expanding, they frequently become entangled so much, that the force of growth breaks the foliage: if there are any appearance of this at any time, they should be set right with the hand. In early seasons these roots will be far advanced, and perhaps one night of frost unexpectedly might materially injure them. When there is any suspicion of cold weather, hoops should be spanned across the beds, so that the necessary mats or canvass could in a few minutes be placed over them, to ward off danger. Protect the finest sorts from heavy drenching rains, and give them small neat rods for support, as they grow up. If the rods and tyings are painted green, the effect will be improved. These directions equally apply to Narcissus, Jonquils, Iris, and all Holland bulbs.
Which have been protected by frames through the winter, must have at all favourable opportunities plenty of air admitted to them by lifting the sashes, and in fine mild days and nights, the sashes may be taken entirely off. Divest them of all decayed leaves, and stir up the earth on the surface of the pots; those that are intended to be planted in the garden may be set to one side, while those that are to be kept in pots must be more strictly attended to. Of these the Pinks and Carnations should be repotted about the first of the month. Those that have been kept in four inch pots, should be put into pots of seven inches, and those that are in five inch pots may be put into eight inch. Give a gentle watering after repotting. Pinks do not require the pots so large, but the same treatment in every other respect. Where the extremity of the leaves are decayed, cut them off, with any other decayed leaves: the pots must be well drained with shivers or fine gravel. Give them plenty of air, otherwise they will be weak in growth.
Primroses require only a little fresh earth on the top of the pots. Daisies may be planted out in shady situations; the sun destroys them during summer if exposed.
These beautiful and highly interesting plants are, to a great degree, neglected in our collections. It cannot be from want of beauty or fragrance that they have not attracted our attention, for they are exquisite in both. We are rather inclined to think that those who have them do not give them the treatment they require yearly to perfect their bloom. They should now have the surface earth taken off about half an inch down, and fresh soil added, which will cause them to put out fresh fibres about the upper part of the roots, and greatly increase their growth. The frame in which they are placed should now face the east, as the sun will be too strong for them; and about the end of the month turn it to the north. The glass of the frame may be white-washed, which will partially shade them from the sun, that being their delight. Give them water sparingly until they begin to grow, and never water them over the foliage previous to flowering, as water injures that fine mealy-like substance found on many of the sorts, and which so greatly improves their beauty. Defend them, therefore, from rain and high winds. To have them flower strongly, only one flower stem should be allowed to grow. The first one that shows is generally the best. At all events leave the strongest, and cut off all the others, or only nip off the flower pips, which answers the same end. Never keep the sash off during night, lest it should rain before morning.
The frames must have plenty of air, and give frequent sprinklings of water. The sashes or boards should be taken entirely off every mild day, and in fine nights leave them exposed to the dew; stir up the earth amongst them, breaking it fine, making all neat. They require liberal supplies of water after they begin to grow.
This is the most favourable month for planting all kinds of garden roses, which must be done as soon as the weather opens, and the ground in a proper state. The earlier in the month they flower the more perfect they will be. Never delay planting when there is an opportunity; for if delayed until the leaves are expanding, the bloom will be much weakened, and the probability is there will be no flowers, and the plants meet with a premature death. It has been said, "there is a particular advantage in planting some every ten days, even to the middle of May; for the flowering of them may be retarded in this way, and the bloom of these delightful shrubs continue for a much longer period." One moment's reflection will convince us, that nature, while in her own element, will not be retarded, suppose there was no danger of instantaneous death to the plants. The artificial means that might be judiciously adopted, with which we are acquainted, to keep back the blooming of hardy plants, is to lift them as soon in spring as is practicable, put them in boxes of earth, and then place them in the driest part of an icehouse until the desired time of planting, which may be delayed as long as the required time of flowering. This will be found a true method of retarding the flowering of roses especially, and not going counter to the rules and principles of nature. There are many beautiful varieties of the garden rose in cultivation, the names of the finest of which we will give in the Catalogue, but perhaps it may be proper to mention here a few of the most particular sorts. The finest unquestionably when in bloom, is the Moss and its varieties, but the flowering is of so limited duration, that it is in a great degree surpassed by others. There is said to be a striped variety of the Moss Rose, but we do not credit it. The Blush Moss, Clinton White Moss, and Mottled Moss, at present certainly are the most superb of that kind. Lee's Crimson Perpetual is a magnificent rose, and flowers in profusion from June to October. This is considered, and justly too, the finest of all the garden roses; its fragrance is exquisite, and the plant highly valued. There is a striped Unique Rose, and a Rosa tricolor, which are much thought of. We have mentioned these as the finest we have seen, but amongst two thousand cultivated varieties of the garden rose, there must be many of equal beauty. Of Rósa spinosíssima there are above three hundred varieties; R. gàllica; two hundred; R. centifòlia, one hundred and fifty; R. damascène, above one hundred; R. álba, fifty; R. rubiginósa, thirty; and of various sorts above eleven hundred. In several individual collections of Europe, there are cultivated above fifteen hundred species, sub-species, and varieties.
When planted, they are too frequently crowded indiscriminately amongst other shrubs, which prevents them having the effect they would have if planted singly or grouped. They vary in size in different sorts from one to ten feet. When planted in the latter method, they should be assimilated in size of leaves and manner of growth, with the greatest variation of flower; or if planted in many small patches, giving each a distinct colour, which has a picturesque effect. An other desirable and fanciful method, is to plant them in figures, giving them edgings of wire, willow, or any other substitute, in imitation of basket work, which is called "baskets of roses;" the ground enclosed in the basket margin to be made convex, which will present a greater surface to the eye; the strong shoots to be layered, or kept down by pegs into the ground, having the points of the shoots only to appear above the soil, which should be covered with moss. With this treatment, in a few years the whole surface of the basket will be covered with rose buds and leaves, of one or various sorts. If two or three of the larger growing sorts are taken, such as Moss or Provins, they may be trained so as to cover a surface of several square yards. One of these covered with Lee's Crimson Perpetual Rose, would be one of the greatest ornaments of the Flower-garden.
A modern invention in the cultivation of the rose is, to grow them in shape of trees, by budding on strong growing kinds at different heights from the ground, according to taste, and the purposes intended. They will form in a few years handsome round heads, which will flower more freely than by layers, or trained on their own stalk. They are particularly desirable amongst low shrubs. When planted, they should be well supported by strong rods, to prevent the wind from destroying them. If any of the roots have been bruised in lifting, cut off the bruised part with the knife, and likewise shorten the young shoots; breaking the earth well about their roots when planting. This has been an esteemed shrub among all civilized nations. The flowers are double, semi-double, and single; the colours are pink, red, purple, white, yellow, and striped, with almost every shade and mixture; the odour universally grateful. This plant is cultivated in every garden, from the humblest cottager to the loftiest prince, and by commercial gardeners in Europe extensively, for distilling rose water, and making the essential oil of roses. They delight in a rich loamy soil, and require plenty of moisture while in a growing state. Those sorts which throw up numerous suckers should be lifted every three or four years, reduced, and then transplanted. When thus removing them, avoid as much as possible exposing their roots; and when newly planted, mulching is of considerable advantage; that is, putting half rotten stable-manure on the surface of the ground round their roots, which prevents evaporation, and keeps up a constant moisture. If this was done in general to our roses in dry seasons, it would greatly improve their flowering. For China roses see next month.
This is the best time to prune ever-blooming climbing roses, such as Champney, Scarlet Cluster, Duchesse de Dino, Notsette, Burgenville, &c. Many of these, when allowed to grow year after year without pruning, become unsightly; they never bear flowers on the old wood, that is, wood of three or four years. Having a tendency to throw out young shoots from the bottom of the stem, the old wood should be cut out, thus encouraging the young wood, which the second year bears the most and finest flowers. In severe winters, the extremities of the shoots are frequently killed, and we have often seen all the wood black or brown, and apparently dead. When that is the case it is best to leave it until they begin to grow, which will show what is dead or alive, when they can be pruned to better advantage.
The earlier the planting of these shrubs is attended to in this month, the more will their growth and flowering be promoted, having all finished before the buds begin to expand. (For kinds recommended see List, end of the volume.) They should never be planted too thick, but leave space for them to grow as they respectively require, and according as they are designed for open or close shrubberies, clumps, or thickets. Have all in readiness, that it may be done with as much expedition as possible, to prevent their roots from being dried by the sun and wind in time of planting. Make the holes intended for their reception round, capacious, and deep enough to hold their roots, without confining them in the least, and loosen the bottom well, putting new and fresh soil under their roots, breaking and pulverizing it during the operation, and frequently shaking the plant as you progress in filling up. When done, make all firm with the foot, leaving a circular cavity to hold the water they will require during dry weather. Give rods, and tie with bands all that need that support before they are left, lest they should be neglected. Cut off any of the bruised roots or irregular growths of the branches.
Rake and sweep off from these all litter and worm cast earth, and give an occasional rolling to settle the ground, and render the surface smooth, where the scythe is to be used. The grass will likewise grow better by rolling it where the frost has partially thrown it out, and add greatly to the beauty of the whole. Cut the edgings with an edging iron or spade, so that the whole will have a finished appearance. If any new turf is required to be laid down, this is a very good time to do it, before vegetation is strong; as the turf that is now laid will have taken root before the dry season commences. Where a great extent is to be done, sowing might be adopted; but it will not have the effect of turf under three years, and during that time must be carefully cut, after the first season, every three weeks, while growing, nor must it be walked upon. White clover and true perennial rye-grass are the seeds most proper for sowing. The ground must in the first place be all equally made up, and levelled with the spade and rake; not "cart loads of soil laid down and leveled," which would finally become very uneven, and would need to be lifted and relaid next year. The best turf is that of a close growing pasture or common, free from all kinds of weeds or strong roots, and the grass short. To cut it expeditiously, be provided with a turfing-iron; but if that cannot be conveniently had, a spade may do very well. Strain a line tight, cutting the turf lengthways, at equal distances, from twelve to eighteen inches. Next draw the line across, cutting from one and a half to two feet; then cut them up with the spade, about one and a half inch thick. In laying, join them close and alternately; when done, beat them firm with a level wooden beater, and roll with a heavy roller.
Grass walks, in the last century, were very popular; but time having put them to the test, they are found unfit for walking upon or using in any manner, almost for one half of the year; therefore not answering the purposes intended. They require great attention to keep them in order; and if not always neat and clean, they are a disagreeable object in a garden; but when they are well dressed, their effect is very enlivening. Where they are desired, prepare the ground as above directed; making the walk a little higher than the adjoining borders, to prevent the earth from being washed on it by the rain. Allowing the walks to be six feet wide, make the centre five inches higher than the sides, or about seven-eighths of an inch to the foot whatever the breadth may be, which will form a gentle declivity to throw off the rain. When laid, beat and roll it well; cutting the edge neat and even. Water frequently if the weather sets in dry. To keep grass walks or plats in order, they should be mown once every three or four weeks from May to September, and the grass each time swept clean off. When the grass is allowed to get long before being cut, the roots become tender; and die when exposed to the sun; at last the grass is all in spots, and in another year requires to be relaid.
A practice once existed of turning these into heaps or ridges during winter to destroy weeds, &c. But this has almost been given up as unnecessary, unsightly, inconvenient, and not doing any material service.
Where the surface of these has become foul, irregular, or mossy, they had better be turned over four or five inches deep where the gravel will admit of it; but if not, hoe and rake them perfectly clean, give a new coat of gravel, and pick up any stones that you think too large; then give them a good rolling, applying it frequently after showers of rain. When they are well attended to just now, they will look well all the season; but if neglected, they take more labour, and are never in such good condition.
Fancy edgings of Thyme, Thrift, Gentiana, Lavender, and Violets—(Daisies may be used if the situation is shaded.) The whole of these may be planted by the line with the dibber except Thyme, which lay as directed for Box. See this month, under that head. Any time in this or beginning of next month will answer to make edgings of these; and if dry weather occurs before they begin to grow after planting, they must have frequent waterings until they have taken fresh root. Thyme requires to be dressed twice during the season to keep it in order.
There are four methods of grafting. The one we will describe is whip or tongue grafting, which is the preferable and most expeditious plan with all deciduous shrubs or trees. The stock upon which it is performed must be slender, from two-thirds of an inch to any diameter suitable to the thickness of the graft. Having headed the stock at a clear smooth part, slope it on one side with a sharp knife at a very acute angle, make a slit on the lower side of the slope about an inch downwards, to receive the tongue or wedge of the graft or scion. Secondly, having the prepared scions cut into lengths of 3, 4, or 5 eyes, take one which matches the stock in size, and slope the bottom of it so as to fit the stock, that the rinds of both may correspond exactly, especially on one side and at bottom; make also a slit upward in the graft, like that in the slope of the stock, so as the one may be inserted in the other as evenly and completely as possible. Let the graft be carefully held in its due position, while a bandage is applied. Take strands of Russian mat, and bind them in a neat manner several times round the stock and graft. Lastly, cover the joint with well worked clay, coat from half an inch below the bottom of the graft to an inch above the top of the stock, and to the thickness of half an inch all round, finish it in an oblong globular form, taking care to work it close, that no air may penetrate. If the clay is covered with moss, it will partially prevent it from cracking.
The grafts will have taken when they begin to grow freely; then the clay may be taken off, and the bandage loosened, and put on again, but not so tight; give the grafts a stake for support, tying them thereto to prevent accidents from the wind. Allow no shoots to arise from the stock.
Any of the rare deciduous trees may, by the above method, be grafted on one of its own family, that is more common, and in that respect is the finest species of propagation that is resorted to.
If the plants in these situations have been properly attended to by admitting air at all favourable times, and when the apartment was below 36° a little fire heat applied to counteract the cold, keeping the heat above that degree; your attention will be rewarded by the healthy appearance of your plants. The weather by this time has generally become milder, so that air may be more freely admitted, especially from ten to three o'clock. Where the leaves are grown to one side, turn the plant with the dark side to the light. They will require a more liberal supply of water, but always avoid keeping them wet. Pick off all decayed leaves, and tie up any straggling shoots; stir up the earth on the top of the pots, breaking it fine where it is hardened by the frequent waterings. This will allow the fresh air to act upon the roots, which is one of the principal assistants in vegetation. For those that require shifting or repotting, see Green-house, March; the plants enumerated there equally apply here, if they are in the collection, with this difference, that well kept rooms are about two weeks earlier than the Green-house. After the end of this month, where there is a convenience, plants will do better in windows that look to the east, in which the direct rays of a hot sun are prevented from falling upon them, and the morning sun is more congenial for plants in this country than the afternoon sun. Where there is any dust on the leaves of any of them, take a sponge and water, and make the whole clean, likewise divest them of all insects. The green-fly is perhaps on the roses; if there are no conveniences for fumigating, wash them off as previously directed. Where there are only a few plants, these pests could be very easily kept off by examining the plants every day. For the scaly insect, see January. If they have not been cleared off, get it done directly; for by the heat of the weather they will increase tenfold.
Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Jonquils, and Crocus, will be generally in flower. The former requires plenty of water, and the saucers under the pots should be constantly full until they are done blooming. The others need only be liberally supplied at the surface of the pot. Give them neat green-painted rods to support their flower stems, and keep them all near the light. The spring flowering Oxalis will not open except it is exposed to the full rays of the sun. The Lachenàlia is greatly improved in colour with exposure to the sun, though when in flower its beauties are preserved by keeping it a little in the shade.
Prímulas, or Primrose, both Chinese and European, delight in an airy exposure; but the sun destroys the beauty of their flowers by making the colours fade.
Caméllias. Many of them will be in perfection. See Green-house this month for a description of the finest varieties. Do not let the sun shine upon the blooms. Those that are done flowering, will, in small pots, require to be repotted. The Cálla or Æthopian water-lily, when in flower, ought to stand in saucers with water.
The Hyacinths that are in glasses must be regularly supplied with water. The roots will be very much reduced by this method; therefore, when the bloom is over, if possible plant them in the garden, or bury them in pots of earth, to ripen and strengthen the bulbs. They will take two years with good encouragement, before they can satisfactorily be again flowered in glasses, and properly they ought not be allowed to bloom next year. Those that are done flowering in pots, can be set aside, and the usual waterings gradually withdrawn. Treat all other Dutch bulbs in a similar manner.
Where the Hot-house has been properly conducted, the plants generally will have a vigorous and healthful aspect. An error frequently arises in the conducting of these departments, by inexperienced operators being ambitious of outstripping their competitors. They keep the house in a very high temperature, and admit little or no air. Where such mode has been pursued, the plants will have got over their first growth, and the foliage look yellow and decaying, thus throwing the plants into a state of inactivity, when nature herself commences her most active movements. The temperature should not be under 60° nor much above 75°, without admitting a little air by the top lights. It will not do yet to give air by the front sashes, the wind being cool, and a current in the house would be hurtful. The sun is not so powerful but the heat can be kept down by the air given from above. In very cold cutting winds, though the effects of sun heat be great, admitting of much air may be injurious. Whatever error may arise, let it be on the side of caution. However, when high winds prevail, there is little danger of the house becoming overheated by the effect of the sun. Hot-house or tropical plants will not be hurt with 110°, if they are not touching the glass. And if the plants are near the glass generally, the glass should have a coat of very thin white-wash (not lime), where the glass is thin and light in colour; but if it is thick and green, there need be no white-washing.
The plants will need a liberal supply of water every day. We have so constantly cautioned the operator on administering this element, that a repetition here is unnecessary. Sprinkle them well with the syringe or engine in the evenings about sundown, four or five times a week, and strictly observe that none of them are omitted; for where there are such, it is probable they are attacked by the red spider. If any of these are detected, syringe them powerfully morning and evening. Water is most effectual in their destruction, and most congenial to the plants. Give regular fumigations to destroy the green-fly. Wherever there is dust or foulness contracted on the foliage, wash all clean with sponge and water; for on these insects are harboured in such quantities that they, in a short time, would overrun all the plants in the house. Keeping the house constantly clean, the plants clear of decayed leaves and every thing of a corroding nature, and duly syringing them, is the surest method of not being much troubled with insects.
For repotting plants, see next month; except those that you are fostering to a great extent, such as Alstrœmèrias, Calceolàrias, or any herbaceous plants that require great encouragement to make them flower well. These should always be repotted, as soon as the roots come to be round the outside of the ball.
Regarding the shifting or repotting of plants, the directions given last month may be followed. If the plants are not shifted that require it, get them done as soon as possible, for they will soon get into a luxuriant state of growth, and then it would not be advisable to shift them. Those that were repotted last month will have taken fresh root in the new soil, and the advantage will soon be perceptible. In order to strengthen the plants, and keep them from becoming drawn and spindly, admit large portions of air every mild day. Indeed there will be very few days in this month, that a little air may not be given, always observing to divide the quantity regularly over the house, in cool nights closing in time. About the end of the month an abundance of air is indispensable, leaving the sashes and doors open every mild night, that the plants may be inured to the open exposure they will have in a few weeks.
As the season advances and vegetation increases, the waterings will require to be more copious and more frequent. Look over all plants minutely every day, and with judicious care supply their wants. Those that are of a soft shrubby nature, and in a free-growing state, will require a larger portion at one time than those of a hard texture, which may only want it every two or three days. The weather and situation in some instances may require a modification of these directions. Plants in general will not suffer so soon from being a little dry as from being over-watered. The health and beauty of the foliage of the plants may be much improved by syringing them freely three evenings in the week, except in moist weather, when it ought not to be done. The ravages of many insects also will be retarded, especially mildew and red spider, which will be entirely destroyed. If the red spider is on any of the plants, particularly take them aside evening and morning, and give them a good dashing with water through the syringe. Where there is mildew, after syringing the plant, dust it on the affected parts with flowers of sulphur, and set them for a few days where they will be sheltered from the wind, after which wash off the sulphur. If the cure is not complete, renew the dose. Always sweep out and dry up the water in the house when any is spilt. The succulent plants will be in want of a little water about once a week, but do not overwater them, as there is not heat enough to absorb much moisture. If the soil is damp, it is quite sufficient.
Will in many instances about the end of this month be showing flowers or flower buds. They must under these circumstances have plenty of air to prevent them from falling off when entirely exposed. The reason that we see so much fine blossom falling to the ground where the trees are brought out of the house in May, is from the confinement they have had. Where there is a convenience of giving air from the back of the Green-house, it should always be given in mild days, especially in those houses that have a recess back from the top of the sashes, for even if the sashes are let down every day, still the house will not be properly ventilated. Any plants that are sickly and intended to be planted in the garden next month to renovate their growth, may be cut back, (if not already done,) as far as is required to give the tree a handsome form, taking care not to cut below the graft or inoculation. Let the operation be done with a fine saw and sharp knife, smoothing the amputations that are made by the saw; and if they are large, put a little well made clay over the wound, to prevent the air from mortifying the shoot. Turpentine is preferable to clay, not being subject to crack or fall off by the weather.
If there are any Lagerstrœmias, Pomegranate, or Hydràngeas in the cellar, they should be brought out about the first of the month, and planted in their respective situations. Give the Hydràngea a very shady spot. It does not require one ray of the sun, providing it has plenty of air, and do not plant it into soil that has been lately manured. A large plant must have great supplies of water in dry weather. If the plant is very thick, the oldest branches may be thinned out, but do not cut out any of the young shoots, as they contain the embryo of the flower. Lagerstrœmias will flower abundantly without pruning, but to have fine large spikes of flowers, cut in the wood of last year to about three eyes from the wood of the preceding year; by this they will be much finer. Pomegranates will only require a little of the superfluous wood cut out. Perhaps some of them may be desired to flower in pots or tubs during summer: the balls will admit of being much reduced, and by this a pot or tub very little larger will do for them. Do not give much water until they begin to grow.
If any of these have grown irregularly, and are not headed down or otherwise pruned, as directed last month, they should now be done. Oleanders are very subject to the white scaly insect, and before the heat of summer begins, they should be completely cleansed. This insect is likewise found on Myrtles, which are worse to clean, and ought to be minutely examined twice every year. We have observed mildew on these shrubs, which makes the foliage brown and unsightly. If it is detected in time, syringing is an effectual remedy.
Some of the earliest blooming kinds of these will now begin to flower, and the sun will greatly deteriorate their rich colours where they are near the glass with a south aspect. The glass should be white-washed, which will cast a thin shade over them, and prolong the duration of the bloom, but if they are above five feet from the glass, white-washing is not requisite. The strong kinds will be growing very luxuriantly, and require liberal supplies of water. When syringing, do not sprinkle the flowers, as it would make the colours intermingle with each other, and cause them to decay prematurely. If they have been properly attended to in that respect, it may be dispensed with after they have generally come in flower, which will not be until about the first of May.
If any of the herbaceous plants were neglected to be divided last month, do not omit it now. They will not flower so well if potted entire, and their growth by this time will be much hurt, if not carefully shaded from the sun. After dividing, sprinkle gently with water three times a day, until they have taken fresh root, when they can be put amongst the other plants.
Cape Bulbs. Those that flowered late in autumn, as soon as the foliage begins to decay, may be set aside, and the water withheld by degrees. When the foliage is entirely gone, and the roots dry, clear them from the earth, and after laying exposed in the shade for a few days to dry, pack them up in dry moss, with their respective names attached, until August, when they may be again potted. Treat those that are in flower the same as directed in last month.
Dutch Roots. All the species and varieties of these that have been kept in the Green-house during winter, will now be done flowering; the water should be withdrawn gradually from them; and then the pots turned on their sides to ripen the bulbs. Or, a superior method is, where there is the convenience of a garden, to select a bed not much exposed. Turn the balls out of the pots and plant them; the roots will ripen better this way than any other. Have them correctly marked, that no error may take place. They can be lifted with the other garden bulbs.
The best situation for most plants while in flower, is where they are shaded from the sun, and fully exposed to the air. Primroses, both European and Chinese, flower best, and the colours are finest when the plants are in the front of the house, and entirely shaded from the sun. The Chinese Azàleas and Rhododéndrons require, while in flower, a similar situation. Have all the shoots tied naturally to neat rods, and keep them clear from others by elevating them on empty pots, or any other substitute. See that there are no insect upon them; for they make a miserable contrast with flowers. The Cálla æthiopica should stand in water when in flower, and even before flowering they will be much strengthened by it.
Insects will on some plants be very perplexing. The weather may admit of those that are infected to be taken out of doors, and put into a frame in any way that is most convenient. Fumigating them about half an hour, if the day is calm, will be sufficient; but if windy, they will take an hour. When done, syringe them well, and put them in their respective situations. By the above method, the house will not be made disagreeable with the fumes of tobacco.
Tie up neatly all the climbing plants. Keep those that are running up the rafters of the house close to the longitudinal wires. As previously observed, running plants should not be taken across the house, except in some instances where it can be done over the pathway, otherwise it shades the house too much. Clear off all decayed leaves, and all contracted foulness, that the house and plants may in this month have an enlivening aspect, as it is undoubtedly one of the most interesting seasons of the year in the Green-house.
Those that have been kept in the Green-house, or in frames, should be planted into beds or the borders, where they will seed better than if kept in the pots. The method generally adopted is to select the plants that are intended for seed; plant the different kinds distinctly and separately; then take a few double flowering plants of each kind, which plant round their respective single varieties that are to be kept for seed. Whenever any of the colours sport, that is, become spotted or striped with other colours, pull these up, and destroy them, for they will soon degenerate the whole, and ought never to be seen in collections that have any pretensions to purity. Many have been the plans recommended as the best for saving, and growing from seed the double varieties of German stock. In every method we have tried we have been successful and unsuccessful; although we generally practise planting the double kinds beside the single, where they are intended for seed. We have no scientific reason for it; not seeing what influence these monsters of flowers can have over a flower where the male and female organs are perfect; which in these are wanting. Some say that the semi-double sorts are best: we have likewise found them both abortive and fruitful in the desired results.
The ambition of every attentive gardener, during this month, is to be at the head of every department, and over every spot. The operator's activity in this month regulates the whole season. Every weed ought to be cut down as soon as it appears, and the proverbial saying will be realized, "a garden that is well kept is easily kept." A wet day need cause no loss of time. Prepare rods, bands, and tallies, to be in readiness when required. Damp weather should always be taken to prick out or transplant annuals, or stocks, but by no means go on the borders while they are wet. If it cannot be done by keeping on the walks, defer it until they are in a proper state. One day of laborious attention just now will save two in the heat of summer. Many in the height of bustle never finish properly as they proceed, which is the worst of practices. Every operation ought to be completely and properly finished before another is taken in hand, which will ultimately prove the quickest and best method to work upon.
Let digging, pruning, hoeing, raking, &c. be done as expeditiously as strength will allow; that the time may be devoted for a few weeks to the beautifying of the garden by sowing and planting.
Those that are tender and were sown last month, according to directions, will be ready to prick out into another light hot-bed, about two feet high, prepared as directed in February. Keep them a few inches apart to let the air circulate. Give them frequent sprinklings with water, and shade them with a mat for a few days until they have taken fresh root; then give them plenty of air, and by the first of next month expose them night and day to harden the plants for the open ground. A few of the annual seeds of every description, and of every country and climate, may be sown any time after the middle of the month. If the season prove favourable they will do well; but reserving a part to sow about the 15th of May, will guard against every extreme.
Those that have come above ground should be thinned out, the dwarf-growing kinds to two or three inches, and the large sorts to four or five inches apart; or they may be only separated about an inch, going over them again in a few weeks; when a few might be taken of those that will bear removing, and plant them in vacant spaces that require filling up. All the varieties of French and African Marygold answer best when transplanted, likewise the species of Coreòpsis that were sown in autumn. The varieties of Ten-week Stock, Balsams, Coxcombs, and other strong growing sorts, generally flower stronger when replanted.
Any biennials that are intended to be removed, and not done last month, must not be delayed longer. The roots of many of them will be very strong, and if possible a cloudy day should be chosen for the operation. Give copious waterings in the evenings until they begin to grow. When the sun is strong, they must be shaded by a piece of board, shingle, or any similar substitute, for some days. When the seeds of these are sown, they should be distinctly marked. The initial B. is the most appropriate.
Perennials. For a limited description of several genera and species, see last month. Those that have not been divided and replanted, where large, they should be done directly, if the weather is dry. They must be carefully watered, and shaded as above directed for Biennials.
Dáhlia supérflua, or what is now called Georgìana variábilis, is one of the most fashionable and popular hardy herbaceous plants of the present day. The varieties of the present species are almost endless. The double kinds only are cultivated, the single varieties having been thrown aside. Several collections in Europe contain upwards of three hundred double varieties, of every colour and taste, occupying more than two acres of ground. It will be difficult to specify the finest; but in this country the dwarf-growing sorts are preferred. To make them flower freely, they should be planted in poor heavy soil. From the end of this month to the middle of May, take the roots from their winter quarters to the garden, and with a spade make a hole sufficiently wide and deep to receive the crowns of the roots one inch deeper than the surface of the ground, cutting off with a sharp knife the old stumps close to the eyes. They have the finest effect in rows; plant them four feet apart in the row, and the rows six feet asunder. Individual plants of a dwarf nature look extremely well. The best one for this is the Dwarf Globe Crimson, and is perhaps the finest that is known, being prolific, compact, beautiful, and very dwarf, never exceeding three feet: if properly grown, Púlla elècta, Famæa, and Zenò, are also fine dwarf sorts; as tall growing kinds Etna; Imperiòsa; Ciceró; Cocàde; Cambridge Surprise; Dutchess of Wellington; Countess of Liverpool; Barret's William Fourth; True Mountain of Snow; Diàna; Crimson Bonnet; and Exímia, are all superb, and at present the highest in estimation. For the names of more of the finest varieties, with their colour, see Catalogue at the end of the work.
When the roots become very large, they ought to be divided, and in dry seasons they require to be liberally supplied with water to keep them growing. If their growth is obstructed, the flowering will be imperfect. Where they are grown to any extent, it would be advisable to put up a large hot-bed about the end of March, and plant them close together therein, about the beginning of April, which would immediately cause them to grow. Give plenty of air, and about the middle of May plant them in the borders, beds, or rows, which will in cool seasons cause them to flower earlier.
The flowers are from three to eight inches in diameter. There ought to be a few of the most distinct and superb varieties, in every garden. Some individuals consider the Anemoné-flowered varieties the finest; but those who never saw a Dáhlia flower of any character, would, in our opinion, chose the large petaled flowers. The Anemoné-flowered sorts likewise are not so large in flower as the other varieties.
The foliage has no particular attraction about it; the stems look strong, but are soft in substance. If seeds are sown on a hot-bed in March, most of them will flower the same year, by transplanting in the garden about the end of May; but the fine double kinds seldom produce seeds.
From the first to the middle of this month is the best time to plant the varieties of Chinese roses. If they are to be removed out of the ground, the earlier in the month the better; but where they are in pots, the precise time is not so material. There are about seventy varieties, including the species of these in cultivation; all of them do extremely well in this country, growing freely, and flowering abundantly in the open air. A few of them require protection during winter. The List at the end of the work will contain all the finest varieties; but as they are not generally known, and the greater part of them highly deserving a situation in every garden, a few limited specific observations is obviously desirable to those who are not acquainted with their beauty and fragrance.
No. 1. Ròsa índica, common China or daily. From the last name an error has taken place, that it blooms every day. In one sense of the word it does. Plants that are young, and in good ground, will grow and flower constantly from the end of April until the buds are killed with frost; but they will never flower when not growing; the bloom being produced on the young wood. The flower is about three inches in diameter, of a dark blush or rose colour, petals large, and loose, between a semi-double and double, and perfectly hardy.
No. 2. *[B]Rose Animated, daily, is a very fine rose, and its merits are appreciated by those who have it in their collections. It is more double, and better formed than No. 1, and partakes of the fragrance of No. 8, is perfectly hardy, colour a fine blush, grows freely, and flowers abundantly; and is coming into great repute.