[H] On examining these plants, when the first appearance of decay affected them, the decayed part was without exception at the surface of the soil, which was completely mortified, while the top and roots were apparently fresh. This led us to conclude that the cause was the effect of sun and water on the stem. We have since kept the earth in a conical form round the stem, thereby throwing the water to the sides of the pot, and kept them in the shade. Previous to doing this, we had quantities died every year, and now no plants thus treated die with us.
The large trees may be fancifully set either in a spot for the purpose, or through the garden. Put bricks or pieces of wood under the tubs to prevent them from rotting, and strew a little litter of any description over the surface of the soil to prevent evaporation, or about one inch of well decayed manure, which will from the waterings help to enrich the soil. A liberal supply of water twice or three times a week is sufficient. A large tree will take at one time from two to four gallons. We make this observation, for many trees evidently have too limited a supply. Continue to syringe the plants through the dry season every evening, or at least three times per week. All the tall plants must be tied to some firm support, because the squalls of wind frequently overturn them, and do much harm by breaking, &c. Keep those that are in flower as much in the shade as will preserve them from the direct influence of the sun.
After the following mentioned plants, or any assimilated to them, are brought out of the house, and before they are put in their respective stations, repot them where they are required to grow well. Aloes. These plants so varied in character, have been divided into several genera. These are Gastèria, Pachidéndron, Riphidodéndron, Howárthia, and Apicra. Of these there are above two hundred species and varieties. To enter into any specific detail, would be beyond our limits; but the catalogue at the end of the work will contain the finest species.
Amaryllis. This is a genus of splendid flowering bulbs containing about eighty species, and one hundred and forty varieties. They are natives of South America, but more than one half of them are hybrids grown from seed by cultivators. They are generally kept in the Hot-house, but in our climate will do perfectly well in the Green-house; and we have no doubt that in a few years many of them will be so acclimated, as to keep as garden bulbs, planting about the end of April, and lifting them in October. As the beauty of these plants is in the flowers, it will be proper to give a small description of a few of them. A. striatifòlia, has a stripe of pure white in the centre of each leaf, the flowers are purple and white, an esteemed species. A. Johnsòni, the flowers are a deep scarlet, with a white streak in the centre of each petal, four bloom on a stem of about two feet, each flower about six inches diameter; a bulb well established has two stems. A. regìna, Mexican Lily, has large scarlet pendant flowers, tube of the flower fringed-like, with three or four on the stem. A. vittàta is an admired species with scarlet flowers, striped with a greenish white. There are two or three varieties of it; corolla campanulate, three or four on the stem, about five inches diameter; petals a little undulate. A. fùlgida, flower scarlet, large tube striped, petals acute, two flowers on the stem. A. áulica is one of the most magnificent, has four flowers about seven inches diameter, erect on a stem about two and a half feet high; six petals, strongly united to the capsule, bottom of the petals green, connected with spots of dark crimson, which spread into fine transparent red, covered with rich tints, nerves very perceptible, anthers bold. It is called crowned Amaryllis. A. psittácina, Parrot Amaryllis, is scarlet striped with green, two flowers on the stem, each about five inches diameter. There are several varieties of it; the best that we have seen are cowbèrgia and pulverulènta. A bulb known in our collections as A. purpùrea is Ballóta purpùrea, has beautiful erect scarlet flowers, three or four on the stem, each about five inches in diameter. There are three varieties of it, differing only in habit. A. longifòlia is now Crìnum capénse, and is perfectly hardy; flowers pink, inclining to white, in large umbels, leaves long, glaucous, and is a desirable garden bulb.
There are many other superb Amaryllis, especially the hybrid sorts; from Johnsòni there are above twenty cultivated varieties; from formòsa above twelve; and from Griffìni about ten, all of them esteemed. Where they have been kept in the earth in which they were grown last year, the ball ought at this repotting to be reduced; when the bulbs are done flowering, they ought to have little water, so that they may be perfectly ripened, which will cause them to produce their flowers more freely.
Araucària. This noble genus contains four species, which are without exception the handsomest plants we are acquainted with, for the beauty of their foliage, and symmetry of their growth, that belong to the Green-house. A. excélsa, Norfolk Island Pine, has leaves closely imbricated as if with a coat of mail, and are imperishable. A. imbricàta, Chile Pine, is one of the grandest of trees, and is the hardiest of the genus; the leaves are also closely imbricated. The other two species are rarely seen even in European collections. The foliage of either of the species will adhere to the wood many years after the plant is dead. They are all highly valued, the pots must be well drained; for if the plants get much water while dormant, the foliage becomes yellow, and never attains its beautiful green colour again; otherwise they are easily grown.
Chamærops. There are about seven species of these palms: four of them belong to this department, and are the finest of those that will keep in the Green-house. They all have large palmated fronds, and require large pots or tubs to make them grow freely, and are tenacious of life if kept from frost.
Gardènia. This is an esteemed genus of plants, especially for the double flowering varieties, which are highly odoriferous, and have an evergreen shining foliage. G. flòrida flòre-plèno, Cape Jasmine, is a plant universally known in our collections, and trees of it are frequently seen above seven feet high and five feet in diameter, blooming from June to October. G. rádicans, dwarf Cape Jasmine, G. longifòlia, and G. latifòlia, are also in several collections, but not so generally known; the flowers are double, and all equally fragrant. We are inclined to think they are only varieties of G. flòrida. Any of the above will keep in the coldest part of the Green-house, and even under the stage is a good situation for them, where the house is otherwise crowded during winter. They must be sparingly watered from November to March. Much water while they are dormant, gives the foliage a sickly tinge, a state in which they are too frequently seen. G. Rothmànnia and G. Thunbérgia are fine plants, but flower sparingly; the flowers of the former are spotted, and are most fragrant during night.
Mesembryànthemum. A very extensive genus, containing upwards of four hundred and fifty species, and varieties, with few exceptions natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They are all singular, many of them beautiful, and some splendid; yet they have never been popular plants in our collections. The leaves are almost of every shape and form; their habits vary in appearance. Some of them are straggling, others insignificant, and a few grotesque. When they are well grown, they flower in great profusion; the colours are brilliant, and through the genus are found of every shade; yellow and white are most prevalent. Each species continues a considerable time in flower. The flowers are either solitary, axillary, extra axillary, but most frequently terminale; leaves mostly opposite, thick, or succulent, and of various forms. They are sometimes kept in the Hot-house, but undoubtedly the Green-house is the best situation for them. They must not get water above once a month during winter, but while they are in flower and through the summer, they require a more liberal supply, and they seldom need to be repotted; once in two years is sufficient.
Strelítzia, a most superb genus of evergreen perennial plants. They are greatly esteemed and highly valued in our collections. The finest flowering species are S. regìnæ and S. ováta; the former is the strongest of the two, but in respect to the beauty of their flowers there is no difference. The scape arises about three feet, headed with a sheath which lies horizontal before the flowers burst forth. The sheath contains three, four, or five flowers, according to the strength of the plants. These arise erect, and pass in a few days to the bottom of the sheath, the one before the other. S. hùmilis is another fine species, but the most rare are S. agústa, which has a leaf nearly like the plantain; S. jùncea, S. parvifòlia, and S. farinòso. The flowers of all these are yellow and blue, except those of S. agústa, which are white, and it flowers sparingly. A few species of these plants ought to be in every Green-house: they are vulgarly called Queen plant. While in flower they should be liberally supplied with water, but while dormant very sparingly. They will suffer sooner from the effects of too much, than too little water. The roots are strong tubers, and require plenty of pot room, and will thrive exceedingly where they can be planted in the soil.
These plants, when they are brought from the Green-house, ought to be set in a situation by themselves, that they may be the more strictly attended to in watering and syringing. An airy situation where the sun has no effect upon them is the best. They should be syringed every evening when there has been no rain through the day. After heavy rains examine the pots, and where water is found, turn the plant on its side for a few hours to let the water pass off, and then examine the draining in the bottom of the pots, which must be defective.
As soon as these are done flowering, and the foliage begins to decay, cease watering, and turn the pots on their sides, until the soil is perfectly dry; then take out the bulbs and preserve them dry until the time of planting, which will be about the end of August or first of September.
It is highly desirable to have all the scientific operations as much advanced in the beginning of this month as is practicable, that at all times immediate attention may be given to the destroying of weeds wherever they appear.
By the first of the month finish sowing all hardy Annuals and Biennials; and about the middle of the month all those that are tropical. The weather being now warm, they will vegetate in a few days or weeks. Attend to thinning of those that are too thick, giving gentle waterings to such as are weak in dry weather. Those that have been protected in frames should be fully exposed therein night and day; take the first opportunity of damp cloudy days to have them transplanted into the borders or beds, after the 10th, lifting them out of the frame with as much earth as will adhere to their roots.
For the treatment of these while in bloom, see last month. The best time to take them out of the ground is about five weeks after they are done flowering, or when the stem appears, what may be termed half decayed. The best method to dry them is to place the roots in rows, with bulb to bulb, the stems laying north and south, or east or west. Give the bulbs a very thin covering of earth, merely to exclude the sun, so that they may not dry too rapidly, being thereby liable to become soft. When they have thoroughly dried in this situation, which will be in eight or ten days in dry weather, (and if it rains cover them with boards,) take them to an airy dry loft or shade, clearing off the fibres or stems, and in a few weeks put them in close drawers, or cover them with sand perfectly dry, until the time of planting, for which see October.
It is not advisable to allow any of the bulbs of either Hyacinths or Tulips to seed, as it retards their ripening, and weakens the root, except where there are a few desired for new varieties. The small offsets must be carefully kept in dry sand, or immediately planted.
These while in bloom should be carefully shaded from the sun by hoops and thin canvass, or an erect temporary awning; and as soon as they are done flowering, they must be fully exposed, and the waterings given up.
That are not planted, should now be done. For full directions see last month. In many seasons, any time before the twelfth is quite soon enough; but nothing ought to be delayed when the season will permit it to be done. It is necessary to have them properly labeled.
They will now be done flowering, but still must be carefully kept in a cool, shady situation, and all decayed leaves cut off as soon as they appear. Examine them carefully and frequently, in case slugs of any description be preying upon them. A dusting of hot lime will kill them, or they may be otherwise destroyed. Some have recommended to repot and slip those plants when done flowering, "or they will contract a destructive disease;" which disease is a loss of verdure, and is induced by too much heat and drought, and a few other causes from inattention; but if attended to as above until September, when they should be fresh potted, they will have time to be sufficiently established before winter, which is the most judicious time to take off slips, for two reasons, viz.—they do not need so much nursing through the most precarious season of the year (summer) for these plants, and they begin to grow, and will root afresh sooner.
As these are very seldom grown from seed, and are semi-biennials, art has to be used to preserve or renew them. About the end of this month take shoots of this year about three inches long, cutting them carefully off, and smoothing the cut end with a sharp knife; from this cut the lower leaves off about one inch and a half, and then put it in the ground; choose a very shady spot, mixing the soil with a little sand and earth of decayed leaves. Sprinkle them three times a day until they have taken root, which will be in a few weeks. Keep the cuttings about four inches apart.
We do not consider that it is essential every month to repeat the necessity of tying up plants, saving seeds when ripe, cutting down weeds, raking, &c. with many other similar observations. We have already been full on these subjects, and expect these to be remembered through the season. Particular care, however, is required to carnations, pinks, or any plants that have heavy heads and slender stems. If carnations are desired to flower strongly, cut off all the buds except three, leaving the uppermost and any other two of the largest. All climbing plants should have timely support, and tied securely every week while they are growing.
All the plants will be able to withstand exposure, in the general state of the seasons, about the 10th of the month. Begin about the first to take out the hardiest, such as Laurestínus, Hydrángeas, Roses, Primroses, Polyanthus, &c. and thus allow the others to stand more free, and become hardened to exposure. The reason that plants are so often seen brown, stunted, and almost half dead, is from the exposed situation they are placed in, with the direct sun upon them, and too frequently from being so sparingly watered. There are no shrubby plants cultivated in pots that are benefited by the hot sun from this period to October. A north aspect is the best for every plant, except Càctus, Aloe, Mesembryànthemum, and such as go under the name of succulents. Where there are only a few, they should be conveniently placed, to allow water from a pot with a rose mouth to be poured frequently over them, which is the best substitute for the syringe. Dáphne, Coronílla, Fúchsia, Caméllia, Primrose, and Polyánthus, do not agree with a single ray of the sun, through the summer. There has been a general question what is the cause of the death of so many of the Dáphne odòra. It may be observed, that the first place that shows symptoms of decay, is at the surface of the soil, and this takes place a few weeks before there are evident effects of it. The cause is from the effect of heat or sun and water acting on the stem at least. If the soil is drawn in the form of a cone round the stem, to throw off the water to the edges of the pot, that the stem may be dry above the roots, mortification does not take place, neither do they die prematurely, when thus treated. For further remarks, see Green-house, this month.
Any of these that are done flowering, such as Ixia, Oxalis, Lachenàlia, &c. as soon as the foliage begins to decay, turn the pots on their sides, which will ripen the roots, and when perfectly dry, clear them off the soil, wrap them up in paper, with their names attached, and put them carefully aside until the time of planting.
Where it is required, repot Cáctus, Aloe, Mesembryánthemums, and all other succulents, with any of the Amaryllis that are required to be kept in pots, also Cape Jasmines. For description of the above, see Hot-house and Green-house of this month, under the same head.
As the plants of the Hot-house are all exposed to the open air, the directions will include both months. If the repotting is over, as recommended last month, all the attention they will require until the end of August, is the administering of water at the roots, and by the syringe over head. It will be impossible to say how great are their wants, that depending entirely upon the nature of the plant, the situation, and the season; but never neglect to look over them every evening, and after very dry nights they will need a fresh supply in the morning, observing to give to none except they are becoming a little dry. Make weekly examinations for insects of any description, and when they appear, have them instantly destroyed.
Always after heavy rains look over the pots, in case water should be standing in them, which would injure the roots. Where any is found, turn the pot on its side, and in a few hours examine the draining which is defective; small pots in continued rains should be turned likewise.
Tie up all plants and shoots to prevent them from being destroyed by the wind, and be attentive to pick all weeds from the pots. Turn round all the plants occasionally, to prevent them from being drawn to one side by the sun or light.
The plants being out of the house, there need be little added under this head. Their treatment is in the general, and the required attention is in giving water according to their different constitutions and habits. Where there are not rain or river water, it should stand at least one day in butts or cisterns, to take the chilly air from it, and become softened by the surrounding atmosphere. This is more essential to the health of the plants than is generally supposed. The small plants in dry weather will need water evening and morning. Continue regular syringings as directed last month. There are frequently rains continuing for several days, which will materially injure many plants, if they are not turned on their sides until the rain is over, especially small plants. The syringings should never be done till after the waterings at the roots, and they should never be seldomer than every alternate evening. Turn all the plants frequently to prevent them from being drawn to one side by the sun or light. Carefully look over them at these turnings, to detect any insects. And observe that the tuberose rooted geraniums, such as Ardéns, Bicòlor, Trístum, &c. are not getting too much water, they being now dormant.
The lifting of these will be general in June. For directions see May. It is not advisable to take up Jonquils, Fritillària, Crocus, and Iris, oftener than every alternate year; Jonquils may stand three years. Anemones and Ranunculus should be carefully lifted after their leaves begin to fade. Do not expose them to the sun, but cover slightly with earth or sand until they are perfectly dry, when they may be sifted out of the earth, and put into drawers carefully labeled. Some recommend to soak these roots in soap-suds, to destroy a worm that they are frequently attacked with. We know not how far this may be carried, nor the good or bad effects, never having practised it.
These are Amaryllis lùtea, now called Sternbérgia lùtea; A. Belladónna, now Belladónna purpuráscens; and Nerìne sarniénsis. This is a beautiful flowering bulb, and requires the protection of a frame during winter. The old bulb seldom flowers oftener than two succeeding years, and then decays, but the off-sets will flower the second year; therefore when the old bulbs are lifted, they ought to be immediately planted, and receive every encouragement to strengthen them for flowering. Crôcus satìvus, C Pallàsii, C. serotìnus, and C. nudiflòrus, and all the species of Cólchicum, with species of several other genera not introduced into the country. They should all be lifted as soon as the foliage is decayed, and kept only a few weeks out of the ground, and then again replanted in fresh soil. The economy of the genus Cólchicum in regard to its bulbs, flowers, and seeds, is altogether singular, and may be termed an anomaly of nature. In producing the new bulbs or off-sets in a very curious manner, the old one perishes. The flowers which arise with long slender tubes from the root die off in October, without leaving any external appearance of seeds. These lie buried all the winter within the bulb, in spring they grow upon a fruit stalk, and are ripe about the first of June. How beautiful and admirable is this provision! The plant blooming so late in the year, would not have time to mature its seeds before winter; and is, therefore, so contrived that it may be performed out of the reach of the usual effects of frost, and they are brought above the surface when perfected, and at a proper season for sowing.
In order to make the former flower well, if the weather is dry, give them frequent waterings at the root, and tie them up neatly to their rods. The criterion of a fine carnation is—the stem strong and straight, from thirty to forty inches high, the corolla three inches diameter, consisting of large round well formed petals, but not so many as to crowd it, nor so few as to make it appear thin or empty; the outside petals should rise above the calyx about half an inch, and then turn off in a horizontal direction, to support the interior petals, they forming nearly a hemispherical corolla. The interior petals should decrease in size toward the centre, all regularly disposed on every side; they should have a small degree of concavity at the lamina or broad end, the edges perfectly entire. The calyx above one inch in length, with strong broad points in a close and circular body. The colours must be perfectly distinct, disposed in regular long stripes, broadest at the edge of the lamina, and gradually becoming narrower as they approach the unguis or base of the petal, there terminating in a fine point. Those that contain two colours upon a white ground are esteemed the finest.
Of a double pink—the stem about twelve inches, the calyx smaller but similar to a carnation; the flowers two inches and a half in diameter; petals rose edges; colour white, and pure purple, or rich crimson; the nearer it approaches to black it is the more esteemed; proportions equal as in carnation. Those that are very tasteful with these flowers are attentive to the manner of their opening. Where the calyx is deficient in regular expansion to display the petals; that is, where there is a tendency to burst open on one side more than on the other, the opposite side in two or three different indentions should be slit a little at several times with the point of a small sharp knife, taking care not to cut the petals, and about the centre of the calyx tie a thread three or four times round to prevent any farther irregularity. Some florists and connoisseurs place cards on them. This is done when the calyx is small. Take a piece of thin pasteboard, about the size of a dollar; cut a small aperture in its centre to admit the bud to pass through. When on tie it tight to the rod, to prevent the wind from blowing it about; and when the flower is expanded, draw up the card to about the middle of the calyx, and spread the petals one over the other regularly upon it. When these plants are in flower, their beauty may be prolonged by giving them a little shade from the mid-day sun by an awning of any simple description. Where they are in pots, they can be removed to a cool shady situation, (but not directly under trees.)
This is a necessary and yearly operation to keep a supply of plants, and likewise to have them always in perfection. As the process of laying, though simple, may not be known to all who are desirous of cultivating these plants, we will give an outline of the mode of operation. Provide first a quantity of small hooked twigs (pieces of Asparagus stems are very suitable) about three inches long, for pegging the layers down in the earth. Select the outward strongest and lowest shoots that are round the plant, trim off a few of the under leaves, and shorten with the knife the top ones even, and then applying it at a joint about the middle of the under-side of the shoot, cut about half through in a slanting direction, making an upward slit towards the next joint, near an inch in extent; and loosening the earth, make a small oblong cavity one or two inches deep, putting a little fresh light earth therein. Lay the stem part where the slit is made into the earth, keeping the cut part open, and the head of the layer upright one or two inches out of the earth; and in that position peg down the layer with one of the hooked twigs, and cover the inserted part to the depth of one inch with some of the fresh earth, pressing it gently down. In this manner proceed to lay all the proper shoots of each plant. Keep the earth a little full round the plant, to retain longer the water that may be applied. Give immediately a moderate watering, with a rose watering pot, and in dry weather give light waterings every evening. Choose a cloudy day for the above operation. In about two months they will be well rooted.
The best time to prune what are termed "Garden roses" is immediately after flowering, which is generally about the middle of June. Cut out all old exhausted wood, and where it is too thick and crowded, shortening those shoots which have flowered to a good fresh strong eye, or bud, accompanied with a healthy leaf, but leaving untouched such shoots as are still in a growing state, except where they are becoming irregular. Such should be cut to the desired shape. There is not a better period of the year for puting these bushes in handsome order, which ought to be studied. All wood that grows after this pruning will ripen perfectly and produce fine flowers next year.
Our reasons for doing so at this period are these: The points of the shoots of the more delicate sorts of roses are very apt to die when pruned in winter or spring; hence the consequences of this evil are avoided. The stronger the wood of roses is made to grow, the flowers will be the larger and more profuse, and this effect is but produced by cutting out the old and superfluous wood; at least it prevents any loss of vegetative power, which ought always to be considered.
According to what we have previously hinted in regard to having roses as standards, where such are desired, the month of July is a proper time for the operation of budding. The kinds to be taken for stocks should be of a strong free growth. Such as Ornamental parade; Dutch tree; R. vilòsa; R. canína; and frequently the French Eglantine, are taken. Be provided with a proper budding-knife, which has a sharp thin blade adapted to prepare the bud, with a tapering ivory haft made thin at the end for raising the bark of the stock. For tieings use bass strings from Russia mats, which should be soaked in water to make them more pliable. The height of the stock or stem at which the bud is to be inserted, is to be determined by the intended destination of the tree, (as it may be properly called.) Choose a smooth part of the stem, from one to three years old. Having marked the place, prune away all the lateral shoots about and underneath it. With the knife directed horizontally, make an incision about half an inch long in the bark of the stock, cutting into the wood, but not deeper; then applying the point of the knife to the middle of this line, make a perpendicular incision under the first, extending from it between one and two inches. Having a healthy shoot of the growth of this year provided of the kind that is desired, begin at the lower end of this shoot, cut away all the leaves, leaving the footstalk of each. Being fixed on a promising bud, insert the knife about half an inch above the eye, slanting it downwards, and about half through the shoot. Draw it out about an inch below the eye, so as to bring away the bud unimpaired with the bark, and part of the wood adhering to it; the wood now must be carefully detached from the bark. To do this insert the point of the knife between the bark and wood at one end, and holding the bark tenderly, strip off the woody part, which will readily part from the bark if the shoot from which the piece is taken has been properly imbued with sap.[I] Look at the inner rind of the separated bark, to see if that be entire; if there be a hole in it, the eye of the bud has been pulled away with the wood, rendering the bud useless, which throw away; if there be no hole, return to the stock, and with the haft of the knife gently raise the bark on each side of the perpendicular incision, opening the lips wide enough to admit the prepared slip with the eye. If the slip is longer than the upright incision in the stock, reduce the largest end. Stock and bud being ready, keep the latter in its natural position, introduce it between the bark and wood of the stock, pushing it gently downwards until it reaches the bottom of the perpendicular incision. Let the eye of the bud project through the centre of the lips; lay the slip with the bud as smooth as possible, and press down the raised bark of the stock. The bud being deposited, bind that part of the stock moderately tight with bass, beginning a little below the incision, proceeding upward so as to keep the eye uncovered, finishing above the incision. In a month after the operation, examine whether the bud has united with the stock. If it has succeeded, the bud will be full and fresh; if not, it will be brown and contracted. When it has taken, untie the bandage, that the bud may swell, and in a few days afterwards cut the head of the stock off about six inches above the inoculation, and prevent all shoots from growing by pinching them off. This will forward the bud, which will push and ripen wood this season; but it must be carefully tied as it grows to the remaining head of the stock. Some do not head down the stock until the following spring, thereby not encouraging the bud to grow, which if winter sets in early is the safest method.
[I] We once budded three eyes of the white moss rose, after they had by mistake been carried in the pocket of a coat three days. The shoot was soaked six hours in water, and two of the buds grew. From this we infer that shoots, if properly wrapped up, may be carried very great distances, and grow successfully.
If the season is dry, look over the late planted shrubs, and give them frequent copious waterings; and a few of the finest annuals that are wanted to flower perfectly should be attended to. Dahlias suffer very much in dry seasons, therefore it is advisable to water the most beautiful (or all) of them two or three times per week, and be careful to tie up their shoots to any support that is given to them, in case of high winds breaking or otherwise destroying the flower stems.
The only attention requisite to these plants, is in giving water, keeping them from being much exposed to either sun or high winds, and preventing the attack of insects. Water must be regularly given every evening, when there has not been rain during the day. Where they are in a growing state, they are not liable at this season of the year to suffer from too much water, except in a few instances, such as the Lemon-scented Geranium, and those kinds that are tuberose rooted, as Ardèns, Bicòlor, Tristúm, &c. which should have moderate supplies.
All the plants ought to be turned round every few weeks to prevent them from growing to one side, by the one being more dark than the other, and keep those of a straggling growth tied neatly to rods. Wherever insects of any description appear, wash them off directly. Give regular syringings or sprinklings from the rose of a watering pot. Be particularly attentive in this respect to the Caméllias, which will keep the foliage in a healthy state, and prevent the effects of mildew.
If the foliage of Lílium longiflòrum, or japónicum, has died down, do not water them while dormant, as they are easily injured by such treatment.
The plants of the Hot-house that were repotted in May and June, according to the directions therein given, will at present be in an excellent state of health, provided they have got at all times the requisite supplies of watering. And as we already have been very explicit on that subject, more remarks now would be merely repetition.
If any of the repottings were neglected, during May or June, let it be done about the first of this month. Let young plants that are growing freely, where the roots have filled the pots, and the plants required to grow, have pots one size larger. In turning out the ball of earth, keep it entire, not disturbing any of the roots.
The necessary repairs of the Hot-house are too often put off to the last day or week; and then with hurry are superficially attended to. Previous to the first of September, have all the wood-work painted; which ought to have one coat every year, and the glass all repaired. Have the flues and furnace examined, and all rents plastered over, or any deficiency made good. Give the flue a thick coat of lime white-wash, and properly white-wash the whole interior stages and shelves to destroy any larvæ of insects; or, what is preferable for the latter, use oil paint. If there is a tan bed, have that renewed; take out what is most decayed, and add new tan. Wash out the floor perfectly clean, so that all may be in readiness for the plants next month.
Any of the Myrtles, Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, &c. that were headed down in April or May, will be pushing many young shoots. The plant must be carefully examined, to observe which of the shoots ought to be left to form the tree. Having determined on this, cut out all the others close to the stem with a small sharp knife; and if the remaining shoots are above one foot long, pinch off the tops to make them branch out.
The trees that were entirely headed down, should not have above six shoots left, which will, by being topped, make a sufficient quantity to form the bush or tree.
These plants, about the first of the month, require a complete dressing. In the first place collect them all together, and with a sharp knife cut off the wood of this year to within a few eyes of the wood of last year. Citriodórum and its varieties do not need pruning. The plants grown from cuttings during the season, that have flowered, cut them to about four inches from the pot. This being done, have the earth all prepared with potshreds or fine gravel for draining the delicate kinds. And in a shaded situation turn the plants progressively out of the pots they are in, reducing the balls of earth so that the same pots may contain them again, and allow from half an inch to two inches, according to the size of the pot, of fresh soil around the ball, which press down by a thin piece of wood cut for the purpose. Finish by leveling all neatly with the hand. Give very gentle waterings from a pot with a rose mouth, for a few weeks, until they have begun to grow, protecting them entirely from the sun, till that period, then take the opportunity of a cloudy day to expose them. After this repotting, the following kinds are liable to suffer from too much water: Pavonínum, Davey[)a]num, fúlgens, ardens, citriodórum, rubéscens, florabùndum, ardèscens; with those of a similar habit, and these species do not require so much encouragement at the root as the strong growing sorts. The tuberous rooted and deciduous species must be very moderately supplied. Be careful when watering that the new soil does not become saturated with water, as, though allowed to dry again, it will not be so pure. When they shoot afresh, turn them regularly every two weeks, to prevent them growing to one side.
As it is frequently very inconvenient to shift these trees into larger tubs in the months of March and April, this month is a period that is suitable both from the growth of the trees, and their being in the open air. It would be improper to state the day or the week, that depending entirely on the season. The criterion is easily observed, which is when the first growth is over, these trees making another growth in autumn. When they are large, they require great exertion, and are frequently attended with inconvenience to get them shifted. Where there is a quantity of them, the best plan that we have tried or seen adopted is as follows: Have a strong double and a single block trimmed with a sufficiency of rope; make it fast to the limb of a large tree, or any thing that projects, and will bear the weight, and as high as will admit of the plant being raised a few feet under it. Take a soft bandage and put around the stem, to prevent the bark from being bruised; make a rope fast to it, in which hook the single block. Raise the plant the height of the tub, put a spar across the tub, and strike on the spar with a mallet, which will separate the tub from the ball. Then with a strong pointed stick probe a little of the earth from amongst the roots, observing to cut away any that are affected by dry-rot, damp, or mildew, with any very matted roots. Having all dressed, place a few potshreds over the hole or holes in the bottom of the tub; measure exactly the depth of the ball that remains around the plant, and fill up with earth, pressing it a little with the hand, until it will hold the ball one inch under the edge of the tub. If there is from four to six inches of earth under it, it is quite enough. Fill all around the ball, and press it down with a stick, finishing neatly off with the hand. Observe that the stem of the tree is exactly in the centre. This being done, carry the tree to where it is intended to stand, and give it water with a rose on the pot. The earth will subside about two inches, thus leaving three inches, which will at any time hold enough of water for the tree. Trees thus treated will not require to be shifted again within four or five years, having in the interim got a few rich top-dressings.
Frequently in attempting to take out of the tubs those that are in a sickly state, all the soil falls from their roots, having no fibres attached. When there are any such, after replanting, put them in the Green-house, and shut it almost close up, there give shade to the tree, and frequent sprinklings of water, until it begins to grow, when admit more air gradually until it becomes hardened. These trees should be put in very small tubs, and a little sand added to the soil. Give very moderate supplies of water, merely keeping the soil moist. Tubs generally give way at the bottom when they begin to decay, and in the usual method of coopering after this failure they are useless, the ledging being rotten, and will not admit of another bottom. The staves should be made without any groove, and have four brackets nailed on the inside, having the bottom in a piece by itself that it can be placed on these brackets, and there is no necessity of it being water tight. Then when it fails, it can be replaced again at a trifling expense. A tub made this way will last out three or four bottoms, and is in every respect the cheapest, and should be more wide than deep. Large Myrtles and Oleanders may be treated in the same manner as directed for the above.
These trees will grow very irregularly, especially the Lemon, if not frequently dressed or pruned. Any time this month look over them all minutely, and cut away any of the small naked wood where it is too crowded, and cut all young strong straggling shoots to the bounds of the tree, giving it a round regular head. It is sometimes necessary to cut out a small limb, but large amputations should be avoided. Cover all wounds with turpentine or bees-wax, to prevent the bad effects of the air.
Any of the plants enumerated in March under this head, may be now done according to directions therein given, and which apply to all sizes. This is the proper period for repotting the following:—
Cálla, a genus of four species. None of them in our collections, and in fact are not worth cultivation, except C. æthiòpica, Ethiopian Lily, which is admired for the purity and singularity of its large white flowers, or rather spatha, which is cucullate, leaves sagittate. It is now called Richárdia æthiópica. The roots which are tubers should be entirely divested of the soil they have been grown in, breaking off any small offsets, and potting them wholly in fresh earth. When growing they cannot get too much water. The plant will grow in a pond of water, and withstand our severest winters, provided the roots are kept at the bottom of the water.
Cyclamen. There are eight species and six varieties of this genus, which consists of humble plants with very beautiful flowers. The bulbs are round, flattened, and solid, and are peculiarly adapted for pots and the decorating of rooms. C. côum, leaves almost round; flowers light red; in bloom from January to April. C. pérsicum, with its four varieties, flower from February to April; colour white, and some white and purple. C. hederæfòlium, Ivy-leaved; colour lilac; there is a white variety; flowers from July to September. C. Europæum, colour lilac, in bloom from August to October. C. neapolitànum, flowers red, in bloom from July to September. These are all desirable plants. When the foliage begins to decay, withhold the accustomed supplies of water, keeping them in a half dry state; and when growing they must not be over watered, as they are apt to rot from moisture. Keep them during the summer months in the shade. The best time for potting either of the sorts is when the crown of the bulb begins to protrude. If the pots are becoming large, every alternate year they may be cleared from the old soil, and put in smaller pots with the crown barely covered. When the flowers fade, the pedicles twist up like a screw, inclosing the germen in the centre, lying close to the ground until the seeds ripen, from which plants can be grown, and will flower the third year.
Lachenàlia, a genus of about forty species of bulbs, all natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and grow remarkably well in our collections. The most common is L. trícolor. L. quadrícolor, and its varieties, are all fine; the colours yellow, scarlet, orange, and green, very pure and distinct; L. rùbida. L. punctàta, L. orchoídes, and L. nervòsa, are all fine species. The flowers are on a stem from a half to one foot high, and much in the character of a hyacinth. The end of the month is about the time of planting. Five inch pots are large enough, and they must get very little water till they begin to grow.
Oxalis, above one hundred species of Cape bulbs, and like all other bulbs of that country, they do exceedingly well in our collections, in which there are only comparatively a few species, not exceeding twelve. O. rubèlla, branching, of a vermilion colour; O. marginàta, white; O. elongàta, striped; and O. amæna, are those that require potting this month. The first of September is the most proper period for the others.
This genus of plants is so varied in the construction of its roots, that the same treatment will not do for all. The root is commonly bulbous, and these will keep a few weeks or months out of the soil, according to their size. Several are only thick and fleshy: these ought not to be taken out of the pots, but kept in them, while dormant; and about the end of this month give them gentle waterings. When they begin to grow, take the earth from the roots, and pot them in fresh soil. In a few years the bulbs are curiously produced, the original bulb near the surface striking a radical fibre downright from its base, at the extremity of which is produced a new bulb for the next year's plant, the old one perishing.
Ornithógalum, Star of Bethlehem, about sixty species of bulbs, principally from the Cape of Good Hope. Many of them have little attraction. The most beautiful that we have seen are O. lactéum, which has a spike about one foot long of fine white flowers; and O. aùreum, flowers of a golden colour, in contracted racemose corymbs. These two are magnificent. O. marítimum is the officinale squill. The bulb is frequently as large as a human head, pear-shaped, and tunicated like the onion. From the centre of the root arise several shining glaucous leaves a foot long, two inches broad at base, and narrowing to a point. They are green during winter, and decay in the spring; then the flower-stalk comes out, rising two feet, naked half way, and terminated by a pyramidal thyrse of white flowers. The bulb ought to be kept dry from the end of June till now, or it will not flower freely.
Watering, and other practical care of the plants, to be done as heretofore described. Frequently the weather at the end of this month becomes cool and heavy. Dew falling through the night will in part supply the syringing operation, but it must not be suspended altogether. Three times a week will suffice. Any of the plants that are plunged should be turned every week. In wet weather observe that none are suffering from moisture.
These always make two growths in the season, and the best time to perform the clipping or dressing of them is before the plants begin their second growth. Choose if possible dull and cloudy days for the operation. The general practice in forming these, is to have the sides even, and the top level, forming a right angle on each side. However neat in appearance this may be considered, it certainly is stiff and formal. We never approve of shearing where it can be avoided, and when adopted, nature ought to be imitated. We consider that all hedges and edgings ought to be narrowed at the top.
If layed about the end of June, and been properly attended, they will by the end of this month be well rotted and fit for transplanting. Clear away the earth lightly, and cut them clean off from the parent plant, nearer the stool than the original slit. Raise them neatly out of the earth, with as many of the root-fibres as possible; cut off the naked part of the stem close to the fibrous roots, and trim away the straggling leaves. Plant the finest sorts in four inch pots, and those more common three plants in five inch pots, in the form of a triangle, which can be separated in spring to plant in the garden. Any of the principal stools should be (if in the ground) lifted and put into seven inch pots to be preserved: the others may be allowed to stand through the winter, covering them with a few dry leaves. Keep them in the shade a few weeks, when they may be fully exposed. Give gentle and frequent sprinklings of water until they have taken fresh root; or if in want of pots, mark out a bed that can be covered with a frame, preparing the soil therein properly. Plant them from four to six inches apart. Shade them from the sun until they begin to grow, giving sprinklings of water over the foliage every evening.
Look over the bulbs that are out of the ground, and examine those that require planting. Fritillària, about twenty species, but few of them generally cultivated, except F. imperiàlis, Crown Imperial; and F. pérsica. These will require planting, and ought not to be lifted oftener than every third year. There are four or five varieties of the above, showy flowers, and singular in appearance. They require a deep rich loamy soil, and if in beds, plant them from three to four inches deep, and one foot apart. They will grow under shade of trees, or any situation where the soil is adapted for them. No imbricated or scaly bulb ought to be retained long out of the ground. When any of these are lifted, and the young bulbs taken off, they should be planted at once. See particularly on bulbous roots in general next month.
Where any seeds of these are saved, with the intention of sowing, let it be done this month. Procure boxes about seven inches deep, and in size proportioned to the quantity to be sown. Put five inches of light sandy soil in the box, level it smoothly, and sow the seeds separately and thickly; cover with half an inch of light sandy loam, with a portion of earth from the woods. Keep the box or boxes in a sheltered situation, giving frequent sprinklings of water to keep the earth damp, which must be protected with a frame, or covered with leaves during winter. The plants will appear in spring, and must be watered and kept in the shade: when the leaves decay in June, put one inch more soil upon them, and the second year they can be planted with the small offsets in the garden, and treated as other bulbs. They must be carefully marked every year. Tulips require many years of trial before their qualities are known; and a poor soil is best to produce their characters after the first bloom.
About the end of this month or first of next, is an advisable period to sow seed of Delphínum Ajácis flòreplèno, or Double Rocket Larkspur. This plant does not flower in perfection except it is sown in autumn, and grown a little above ground before winter, when a few leaves can be lightly thrown amongst them, but not to cover them entirely, as that would cause damp, and they would rot off. Coreópsis tinctòria, which is now Calliópsis tinctòria, and a beautiful plant, should likewise be sown. Be attentive in saving all kinds of seeds, many of which will keep best in the capsule. Name them all correctly, and with the year in which they were grown.
For the kinds of plants that require potting, we refer to the Green-house for this month. All that are therein specified are peculiarly adapted for rooms, and we would call attention to the genus Cyclamen, which has not been generally introduced into the collections of our ladies; as, from the character and beauty of the flowers, they are very attracting and highly deserving of culture. Attend to the Geraniums as there directed, and be particular in having them cut down, and repotted, as there fully described. The Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, and Myrtles, that are kept in cellars or rooms, should have the same attention in this month as directed in the Green-house, which to repeat here would be occupying space unnecessarily.
Réseda odoráta, or Mignonette, is one of the most fragrant annuals. To have it in perfection, the seed should be sown about the end of this month, or beginning of next, into pots of fine light earth, and sprinkled with water frequently. When it comes up the plants must be thinned out or transplanted; the former method is preferable. Keep them from frost during winter, and always near the light.
This will equally apply to the Green-house.
Having last month put the house in complete order, all that remains necessary to be attended to, is the state of the plants and pots, which should be regularly examined, and of those where the roots fill the soil, a little may be taken off the top, supplying its place with fresh earth, thereby giving what is called a top dressing. Give each a sufficient rod that requires it, tieing the plant neatly thereto; minutely scrutinise each for insects, and where they are detected, have them eradicated.
Finally, wash all contracted foulness from off the pots, at the same time pick off any decayed leaves; thus all will be in perfect order to take into the house. If any plants have been kept in the Hot-house during summer, they must likewise go through the same operations.
From the 16th to the 24th, according to the season, is the proper time to take in the Hot-house plants. It is preferable to have them what might be deemed a few days too early, than have them in the slightest affected by cold.
Commence by housing the largest first, and those that stand farthest in the house, observing to place the most tender sorts nearest the heat or warmest part of the house. For observations on them, see May: in regard to arrangement, that must be according to the taste of the operator. We may observe that in a small collection it is better to have them in a regular than in a picturesque form. A dry shelf is indispensable in this department for placing on it all herbaceous plants, such as Cánna, Hedychium, Zíngiber, Kæmpféria, &c. the watering of which from this time should be gradually suspended, that they may have their required cessation to make them flower well. This shelf may be in any situation; one in darkness, where other plants will not grow, will answer perfectly well. If there is a bark bed, do not, until the end of December, plunge any of the pots therein.
The plants being now all under protection, they must have as much air as possible admitted to them every day, by opening the doors, front and top sashes, closing only at night. The syringings must be continued, and care taken that plants of a deciduous or herbaceous nature are not over watered. Alstrœmèrias are apt to rot while dormant when they are supplied with water. The tuberous species might be kept almost dry. Some practical men of sound science repot these plants in this month into fresh soil, and allow them to stand till January almost without water. We have never adopted this method with any description of plants, but do not doubt of its success with that genus.
See that the ropes and pullies of the sashes are in good order, and fit to stand all winter.
During this month every part of the Green-house should have a thorough cleansing, which is too frequently neglected, and many hundreds of insects left unmolested. To preserve the wood work in good order, give it one coat of paint every year. Repair all broken glass, white-wash the whole interior, giving the flues two or three coats, and cover the stages with hot-lime, white-wash, or oil-paint; examine ropes, pullies, and weights, finishing by washing the pavement perfectly clean. If there have been any plants in the house during summer, be sure after this cleansing that they are clean also, before they are returned to their respective situations.
The intensity of the heat being over for the season, the heavy dews during night will prevent so much absorption amongst the plants. They will, in general, especially by the end of the month, require limited supplies of water comparatively to their wants in the summer months. Be careful amongst the Geraniums that were repotted in August, not to water them until the new soil about their roots is becoming dry. Syringing in this month may be suspended in time of heavy dews, but in dry nights resort to it again.
The herbaceous plants and those of a succulent nature must be sparingly supplied. The large trees that were put in new earth will require a supply only once a week, but in such quantity as will go to the bottom of the tubs.
About the end of the month all the plants should be examined and cleaned in like manner as directed for those of the Hot-house last month, which see. From the 1st to the 8th of October is the most proper time to take them into the Green-house, except those of a half hardy nature, which may stand out till the appearance of frost. All the Geraniums that were put in the shade after shifting, may after the 10th be fully exposed, which will in some degree prevent them from being weak. Turn them in such a manner as will make them grow equally. Always endeavour to have these plants short and bushy, for they are unsightly otherwise, except where a few very large specimens are desired for show. All Myrtles and Oleanders that were headed down, if the young shoots are too crowded, continue to thin them out, and give regular turnings, that all the heads may grow regularly.
That are wanted to flower in the Green-house (where they do remarkably well) and are in the ground, have them carefully lifted before the end of the month, and planted in six or seven inch pots, with light loamy soil. Place them in the shade till they take fresh root, and give them frequent sprinklings of water. As soon as the foliage becomes erect, expose them to the full sun, and treat as Green-house plants.
These very ornamental plants blooming so late, and at a period when there are few others in flower, one of each variety (or two of some of the finest) should be lifted and put in 8 inch pots, in light loamy soil, and treated as above directed for Stocks, &c. These will flower beautifully from October to December, and when done blooming the pots may be plunged in the garden, or covered with any kind of litter, until spring, when they can be divided and planted out.
About the end of this month is the period for all of these that are intended for the Green-house to be potted. We specified some of the former last month, and will here enumerate a few others.
Babìana, a genus of small bulbs, with pretty blue, red, and yellow flowers. B. distíca, pale blue flowers in two ranks. B. strícta, flowers blue and white. B. tubiflòra is beautiful, colour white and red. B. plicàta has sweet-scented pale blue flowers. There are about twenty species of them, and they grow from six to twelve inches high. Four inch pots are sufficient for them.
Gladìolus, Corn-flag, a genus of above fifty species. There are several very showy plants amongst them, and a few very superb. G. floribúndus, large pink and white flowers. G. cardinàlis, flowers superb scarlet, spotted with white. G. byzantìnus, large purple flowers. G. blándus, flowers of a blush rose colour, and handsome. G. cuspidàtus, flowers white and purple. G. psittácinus is the most magnificent of the genus, both in size and beauty of flower; the flowers are striped with green, yellow, and scarlet, about four inches diameter, in great profusion, on a stem about two feet high, and though rare in Europe may be seen in some collections in this country. The beauty of this genus is all centred in the flowers; the leaves are similar to Iris.
Ixia, a genus containing about twenty-five species of very free-flowering bulbs. I. monadélpha, flowers blush and green. I. leucántha, flowers large, white. I. capitàta, flowers in heads of a white and almost black colour. I. cònica, flowers orange and velvet. I. columellàris is beautifully variegated with purple, blush, and vermilion colours. The flower stems are from six to twenty-four inches high.
Sparáxis, a beautiful genus of twelve species, closely allied to the last, but more varied in colour. S. grandiflòra striàta is striped with purple ground blush. S. versícolor, colours crimson, dark purple, and yellow. S. anemonæflòra is of various colours, and very similar to Anemòne.
Tritònia, a genus of about twenty-five species. Few of them deserve culture in regard to their beauty. T. crocàta is in our collections, as I. crocàta, which is amongst the finest, and T. zanthospìla has white flowers curiously spotted with yellow.
Watsònia, a genus containing several species of showy flowers, several of which are in our collections, under the genus Gladíolus, but the most of the species may easily be distinguished from it by their flat shell formed bulbs. W. iridifòlia is the largest of the genus, and has flowers of a flesh colour. W. ròsea is large growing, the flowers are pink, and on the stem in a pyramid form. W. humilis is a pretty red flowering species. W. fúlgida, once Antholyza fúlgens, has fine bright scarlet flowers. W. rùbens is an esteemed red flowering species, but scarce.
These six genera are in general cultivation. There are several of others of merit that our limits will not admit of inserting. We have no doubt there are some splendid species that have not come under our observation, and others which may be obtained from the Cape of Good Hope not known in any collection. Many hundreds of superb bulbs indigenous to that country, and of the same nature and habit of the above, have not been seen in collections. The flowers of those which we have specified are from one to four inches in diameter, ringent, tubular, or campanulate. Pots from four to seven inches diameter, according to the size of the roots, will be large enough. Give them very little water until they begin to grow; then supply moderately, and keep them near the light. Of the Holland or Dutch bulbs, the Hyacinth is the favourite to bloom in the Green-house. A few of the Tulip, Narcissus, Iris, and Crocus, may for variety be also planted with any other that curiosity may dictate. When these are grown in pots, the soil should be four-eighths loam, two-eighths leaf mould, one-eighth decomposed manure, one-eighth sand, well compounded; plant in pots from four to seven inches, keep the crown of the bulb above the surface of the soil, except of the Tulip, which should be covered two inches. When these roots are potted, plunge them in the garden about three inches under ground; mark out a space sufficient to contain them; throw out the earth about four inches deep, place the pots therein, covering them with earth to the above depth, making it in the form of a bed. Leave a trench all round to carry off the rain. By so doing, the bulbs will root strong, the soil will be kept in a congenial state about them, and they will prove far superior than if done in the common method. Lift them from this bed on the approach of frost, or not later than the second week of December, wash the pots and take them to the Green-house.
Vibúrnum. This is a good period to repot all the flowering plants of this genus. For a full description of them, see Green-house, March. The repotting is only intended for young plants that are wanted to grow freely. When the V. tìnus is much encouraged, it does not flower profusely.
Lìlium, Lily. There are four species of this splendid genus kept in the Green-house. It has always been our practice to repot them when they begin to grow, though it is said by some that, when removed at that time, they will not flower perfectly. They will not do to be kept above a few weeks out of the ground, and we think they ought never to be kept out any period. We place them here, that a choice may be made by the cultivator of either of the periods, which is not material; observing in either case, that excess of moisture is injurious while they are dormant. L. longiflòrum grows about one foot high, with one or more flowers. L. longiflòrum suavèolens, is sweet-scented, and has only one flower. L. japònicum is the most magnificent, grows about two feet high, with three or more flowers on one stem. L. lancifòlium; we incline to class this with L. speciòsum, there being no apparent distinction in any character. The flowers are all of the purest white. They require from five to seven inch pots.