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An awkward bit of climbing.
An awkward bit of climbing.
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Guides at Zermatt.
Guides at Zermatt.
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A large party for a small hut.
A large party for a small hut.
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Au revoir. To face p. 322.
Au revoir.
To face p. 322.
“Mountaineering by skilled mountaineers is about as dangerous as hunting in a fair country, and requires about as much pluck as to cross from the Temple to the Law Courts at midday. Difficult mountaineering is for the unskilled about as dangerous as riding a vicious horse in a steeplechase for a man who has never learnt to ride. But the tendency in those who speak or write of it for the outer world who are not mountaineers is to conceal a deficiency of charm of style by an attempt to slog in the melodramatic, and I plead guilty at once.
“So we think and write as though to us our passion for the hills were a fancy of the summer, a mere flirtation. Yet no one has lost the first bloom of his delight in Alpine adventure before the element of sternness has come to mar his memory and bind more closely his affections. You find the mildly Horatian presence of death somewhere near you, and that at a moment when, whatever your age and strength, and whatever your infirmities, you are at the full burst of youth; when Nature has been kindest she has been most capricious, and has flaunted her relentless savagery just when she has bent to kiss you. The weirdest rocks rise from Italian gardens, and the forms of hill seem oldest when you are most exultant—immortal age beside immortal youth. Yet is it not this, ‘the sense of tears,’ in things which are not mortal which must mark your Alpine paths with memories as heavy and as definite as those inscriptions which tell of obscure and sudden death on every hillside, and invite your prayers for the woodcutter and the shepherd? You too will have seen friends go out into the morning whom you have never welcomed home. There is a danger, sometimes encountered recklessly, sometimes ignorantly, but sometimes—hard as it may be to understand the mood—not in the mere spirit of the idle youth, but met with and overcome, or overcoming, in a resolution which knows no pleasure in conquest save when the essay is fierce, and is calmly willing to pay the penalty of failure. While for ourselves we enjoy the struggle none the less because we have taken every care that we shall win, they freely give all; and for such there is surely no law. While by every precept and example we impress the old rules of the craft on our companions and our successors, how can we find words of blame for those who have at least paid the extreme forfeit, and found ‘the sleep that is among the lonely hills’?
“The penalty for failure is death; not always exacted at the first slip, for Nature is merciful and ofttimes doth relent; but surely waiting for those who scorn the experience of others and slight her majesty in wilfulness, in ignorance, in the obstinate following of a fancy, in the vain pursuit of notoriety. The rules are known, and those who break them, and by precept and example tempt to break them those whom they should teach, wrong the sport which they profess to love.
“In this game as in any other, it should be a point of honour for us not to make the sport more difficult for others, and not to bring unnecessary sorrow upon the peasants, who help us to play it, and upon their families. It should be a point of honour to play the game, and, if disaster comes in playing it, we have at least, done our best.”
Alp | A mountain pasture, usually with chalets tenanted only in summer. |
Arête | A ridge. |
Bergschrund | A crevasse between the snow adhering to the rocks and the lower portion of the glacier. |
Col | A pass between two peaks. |
Couloir | A gully, usually filled with snow or stones. |
Crevasse | A crack in a glacier, caused by the movement of the ice over an uneven bed or round a corner. |
Firn | The snow of the upper regions, which is slowly changing into glacier ice. |
Grat | A ridge. |
Joch | A pass between two peaks. |
Kamm | A summit ridge. |
Moraine | An accumulation of stones and sand which has fallen from bordering slopes on to a glacier. Medial moraines are formed by the junction of glaciers, their lateral moraines joining. |
Moulin | A glacier mill, or shaft through the ice, formed by a stream which has met a crevasse in its course, and plunging into its depths has bored a hole right through the glacier and often into the rock beneath. |
Névé | The French of Firn. (See Firn.) |
Rücksack | The bag type of canvas knapsack now invariably used by guides and climbers. |
Schrund | A crevasse. (See Crevasse.) |
Sêrac | A cube of ice, formed by transverse crevasses, and found where a glacier passes over steep rocks. This part of a glacier is called an ice-fall. |
A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, R, S, T, U, V, W, Z
A
Abruzzi, Duke of, 8
Adine Col, 108
Æggischhorn, 257
Ailefroide, 228, 245
Aitkins, Mr, 162
Aletsch Glacier, 125
Aletschhorn, avalanche on, 55
Almer, Christian, 223, 237
Almer, Ulrich, 55
Andenmatten, 108
Anderegg, Jacob, 126, 127
Anderegg, Melchior, 125, 212
Andermatten, Franz, 202
Arbuthnot, Mrs, 257
Arc, Valley of, 266
Aren Glacier, 57, 61
Arlberg Pass, 61
Arolla, 168
Arves, Aiguilles d’, 248
Asti, 265
B
Baker, Mr, 134
Balloon (crossing Alps), 298
Balme, 300
Bans, Les, 228
Baumann, Hans, 127
Bean, Mr, 136
Bennen, 57
Bergemoletto, 65
Bergli Hut, 210
Bessanese, 299
Bettega, 183
Biner, Alois and P., 302
Biner, Joseph, 204, 302
Blaitiére, Aiguille de, 26, 37
Blanc, Mont, 136, 153
Blanche, Dent, 51, 152, 167
Boeufs Rouges, 228
Bohren, 58
Boniface, 265
Bonvoison, Pic de, 226
Botto, 298
Bregaglia group, 296
Brenner, 136
Brewer, Mrs, 61
Bricolla châlets, 168
Bristenstock, 164
Broadbent, Mr, 302
Bruce, Major, 59
Brulle, Mons. H., 260
Burckhardt, Mr, 208
Burchi peak, 59
Burgener, Alexander, 104, 202
C
Cà d’Asti, 265
Carr, Mr Ellis, 23
Carrel, J. A., 21
Caucasus, 58, 99, 116
Cenis, Mont, 264
Cerbillonas, the, 260
Chamonix, 8, 23, 126, 153
Charbonnet, Captain, 298
Charmoz ridge, 50
Claret, 258
Clayton, Captain, 261
Collie, Dr Norman, 134
Constance, 60
Conway, Sir W. M., 155, 275
Copland Valley, 4
Croz, Michel, 222, 238
D
Dauphiné, 11
Dent, Mr C. T., 99, 116, 142, 202
Devas, Mr J. F. C., 144
Dixon, Mr H. B., 133
Dolomites, 182
Dom, 52
Donkin, Mr W. F., 58, 99, 116
Dora Riparia, Valley of, 266
Düniberg, 282
Durand Glacier, 204
Durando, 298
Dych Tau, 105
E
Ecrins, 228, 235
Ecrins, Col des, 225
Eiger, 264
Elbruz, 115
Elm, landslip of, 275
Elmer, Huntsman, 280
Encula, Glacier de l’, 246
Étançons, Val des, 11
F
Fellenberg, E. Von, 212
Ferard, Mr A. G., 144
Fitzgerald, Mr E., 3
Flender, Herr, 138
Foster, Mr G. E., 126
Fox, Mr, 116
Freshfield, Mr Douglas, 116
Fürrer, Alphons, 8
Furrer, Elias, 167
G
Gabelhorn, Ober, 55
Gastaldi, Rifugio, 299
Gavarnie, 261
Géant, Dent du, 257
Geneva, Lake of,37
Gentinetta, A., 8
Gentinetta, E., 206
Gestola, 99
Glace, Mer de, 8
Glarus, Canton, 277
Gohna Lake, 277
Grass, Hans, 55
Greenwood, Mr Eric, 154
Grogan, Mr, 302
Grove, F. Craufurd, 2
Gurkhas, 59
H
Habl, Herr Emil, 292
Hardy, Mr, 164
Hartley, Mr E. T., 166
Hill, Mr, 167
Himalayas, 58, 275
Hochjoch Haus, 261
Hohberghorn, 52
Hörnli, 9
Horrocks, D. P., 204
I
Imboden, Joseph, 52, 165, 195
Imboden, Roman, 195
Imseng, Ferdinand, 202, 267
Innsbruck, 60
Interlaken, 221
J
Jones, Mr Glynne, 167
Julen, Edouard, 206
Julen, Felix, 302
Jungfrau, 55, 210
Jungfrau Hut, 209
K
Kaiserbrunn, 292
Kennedy, Dr, 164, 222
King, Sir H. S., 208
Koenig, Herr, 138
Kubli, Herr Oswald, 281
Kurzras, 261
L
La Bérarde, 11, 245
La Grave, 11
Langtauferer Glacier, 262
Lapland, 306
Lausanne, 37
Lucerne, 301
Lyons, 298
M
Maggiore, Lago, 301
Maithana Hill, fall of, 275
Maquignaz, 21
Maritime Alps, 305
Martino, St, 182
Matthews, Mr E. C., 211
Matterhorn, 8, 21, 248, 302
Maund, Mr, 11
Maund, Mrs, 11
Maurer, 11, 116
Meije, 12, 248
Meije, Brèche de la, 12, 228
Middlemore, Mr, 11
Midi, Aiguille du, 126
Mischabel group, 301
Monand, Mons. J., 306
Mönch, 124
Montanvert, 8
Moore, Mr A. W., 124, 222, 235
“Moseley’s Platte,” 302
Mouvoison, 142
Mueller Valley, 4
Mummery, Mr, 23, 58
Mürren, 208
Müsli, 280
Mussa, Cantina della, 300
N
Nant Francon, 319
Nantillons Glacier, 24
Neyssel, Mons. Antoine, 306
Noir, Glacier, 245
O
Oetzthal, 261
Offerer, J., 136
Ossoue, Valley of, 261
P
Palü, Piz, 55
Passingham, Mr, 202
Packe, Mr C., 259
Pelvoux, 245
Pelvoux, Crête du, 245
Perren, H., 138
Perren, P., 204
Pilatte, Col de la, 222
Plan, Aiguille du, 23
Plattenbergkopf, 277
Pourri, Mont, 267
Powell, Captain, 116, 123
Pyrenees, 259
R
Rax, the, 291
Renaud, Mons., 223
Rey, Emil, 8
Rhyner, Fridolin, 287
Rhyner, Meinrad, 280
Richardson, Miss, 165
Rocca Venoni, 300
Roccia, Family of, 68
Roche Melon, 264
Rocky Mountains, 133
Rodier, 11
Rosetta, 182
Rothhorn, Zinal, 195
S
Saas, Valley of, 301
Sahrbach, 134
Schäffer, Dr, 136
Schildthorn, 257
Schuster, Mr, 162
Schwarzsee Hotel, 10
Sefton, Mount, 4
Seiler, Herr, 145, 162
Seiler, D. H., 301
Sernf Valley, 277
Silberhorn, 208
Skagastöldstind, 140
Ski accident, 137
Slingsby, Mr Cecil, 23, 140, 152
Sloggett, Mr, 8
Smith, Mr Haskett-, 158
Solly, Mr, 156
Somis, Ignazio, 65
Sospello, 306
Spechtenhauser, 261
Spelterini, Captain, 301
Spender, Mr H., 167
Strahlplatten, 209
Stock, Mr E. E., 302
Stockje, 156
Supersax, Ambrose, 209
Susa, 265
T
Tavernaro, 183
Tetnuld Tau, 99
Tönsberg, 141
Trift Valley, 195
Tuckett, Mr F., 55, 264
Tuckett Glacier, 5
Turin, 298
U
Uschba, 115
V
Vallon, Glacier du, 245
Vallot Hut, 153
Valtournanche, 21
Ventina Glacier, 316
Vignemale, 260
Viso, Monte, 269
Vuignier, Jean, 168
W
Walker, Mr, 223, 235
Walker, Mr Horace, 126
Wandfluh, 166, 179
Watson, Mr and Mrs, 257
Weisshorn, 248
Weisskugel, 261
Weissmies, 301
Wengern Alp, 124, 210
Willink, Mr, 123
Wildlahner Glacier, 136
Wolfsthal, 292
Woolley, Mr H., 116
Whymper, Mr E., 222, 235
Wyss, Schoolmaster, 280
Z
Zentner, Kaspar, 287
Zermatt, 10, 51, 139, 181, 301
Zmutt Glacier, 166, 179
Zurbriggen, 3, 59
Zurbriggen, Clemens, 168
Zurbrücken, Louis, 209
Zurmatter, 302
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