b Census taken by myself; men counted, women and children estimated.
c Estimates furnished by Grand Osage chiefs.
d On information. (Z. M. P.)
On the Arkansaw, latitude 37° 44´ 9´´ N., Oct. 24th, 1806.
Dear General:
Our party arrived here on the 15th inst., myself and Dr. Robinson on the 19th [18th by Itinerary, p. 427]. We, having been out to seek the trace of the Spanish troops, missed the party, and were not able to join them until the 4th [3d] day.
The river being very regular, Lieut. Wilkinson had calculated to proceed on the day following on the most direct route for the Red [sic] river; but shortly after my joining, considerable rain fell and raised the river, and we have been ever since preparing wooden and skin canoes for that gentleman and party to descend in. The river is between 300 and 400 yards in width, with generally flat low banks, not more than two or three feet high, and the bed a sand-bank from one side to the other. The want of water will present the greatest obstacle to the progress of the party who descend the Arkansaw, as they have no cause to fear a scarcity of provision, having some bushels of corn on hand, and can at their option take as much dried meat as they think proper, hundreds of pounds of which are lying on scaffolds at our camp; and they are likewise accompanied by the choice of our hunters.
Under these circumstances, and those stated in my letter from the Pawnees, I can assert with confidence there are no obstacles I should hesitate to encounter, although those inseparable from a voyage of several hundred leagues through a wilderness inhabited only by savages may appear of the greatest magnitude to minds unaccustomed to such enterprises. Lieut. Wilkinson and party appear in good spirits, and show a disposition which must vanquish every difficulty.
We were eight days traveling from the Pawnee village to the Arkansaw, our general course S. 10° W. Several days we lay by nearly half, owing to various circumstances; my course made it 150 miles, but I could now march it in 120. Lieut. Wilkinson has copied and carries with him a very elegant protracted sketch of the route, noting the streams, hills, etc., that we crossed; their courses, bearings, etc.; and should I live to arrive, I will pledge myself to show their connections and general direction with considerable accuracy, as I have myself spared no pains in reconnoitering or obtaining information from the savages in our route.
From this point we shall ascend the river until we strike the mountains, or find the Tetaus; thence bear more to the S. until we find the head of the Red river, where we shall be detained some time; after which nothing shall cause a halt until my arrival at Natchitoches.
I speak in all those cases in the positive mood, as, so far as lies in the compass of human exertions, we command the power; but I pretend not to surmount impossibilities, and I well know the general will pardon my anticipating a little to him.
The general will probably be surprised to find that the expenses[VI-9] of the expedition will more than double the contemplated sum of our first calculations; but I conceived the Spaniards were making such great exertions to debauch the minds of our savages, economy might be very improperly applied, and I likewise have found the purchase of horses to be attended with much greater expense than was expected at St. Louis. For those reasons, when I advert to the expenses of my two voyages, which I humbly conceive might be compared with the one performed by Captains Lewis and Clark, and the appropriations made for theirs, I feel a consciousness that it is impossible for the most rigid to censure my accounts.
I cannot yet say if I shall sacrifice my horses at Red river, but every exertion shall be made to save them for the public; some, if in good condition, would be fine ones, and average between $50 and $60. Should the fortune of war at length have honored me with a company,[VI-10] I hope the general will recollect his promise to me, and have my command attached to it; and on my arrival I shall take the liberty of soliciting his influence, that they may obtain the same or similar rewards, as those who accompanied Capt. Lewis; as I will make bold to say that they have in the two voyages incurred as great dangers, and gone through as many hardships.
Dr. Robinson presents his respectful compliments, and is sanguine of the success of our expedition.
I am, dear General,
Your ever attached friend
and obedient servant,
[Signed] Z. M. Pike.
General J. Wilkinson.
PIKE'S EXPEDITIONS.
Part III.
THE MEXICAN TOUR.
Friday, Feb. 27th, 1807. In the morning I discovered that the Spanish lieutenant [Don Ignatio Saltelo] was writing letters addressed to the governor and others; on which I demanded if he was not going on with me to Santa Fe. He appeared confused and said, No; that his orders were so positive as to the safe conduct and protection of my men, that he dare not go and leave any behind; that his companion [Don Bartolomé Fernandez] would accompany me to Santa Fe with 50 men, while he with the others would wait for the sergeant [Meek] and his party. I replied that he had deceived me, and had not acted with candor; but that it was now too late for me to remedy the evil.
We marched about eleven o'clock, ascending the Rio del Norte [read Rio Conejos] five miles more, S. 60° W., when we went round through a chain of hills and bore off to the south. We proceeded nine miles further, when we crossed the main branch of that stream, which was now bearing nearly west toward [or east from] the main chain of the third chain of mountains [San Juan range]. We encamped on the opposite side. Intensely cold; obliged to stop frequently and make fires. Snow deep. Distance 15 [5 + 9 = 14] miles.[I'-1]
Feb. 28th. We marched late. One of the Frenchmen informed me that the expedition which had been at the Pawnees had descended the Red river 233 leagues, and from thence crossed to the Pawnees expressly in search of my party. This was afterward confirmed by the gentleman who commanded the troops. He then expressed great regret at my misfortunes, as he termed them, in being taken, and offered his services in secreting papers, etc. I took him at his word, and for my amusement thought I would try him; so I gave him a leaf or two of my journal, copied, which mentioned the time of my sailing from Belle Fontaine, and our force. This I charged him to guard very carefully and give to me after the investigation of my papers at Santa Fe. This day we saw a herd of wild horses. The Spaniards pursued them and caught two colts, one of which the Indians killed and ate; the other was let go. We pursued our journey over some hills, where the snow was very deep, and encamped at last on the top of a pretty high hill, among some pines. We left the river, which in general ran about six, eight, and 10 miles to the left or east of us. Saw great sign of elk. Distance 36 miles.[I'-2]
Sunday, Mar. 1st. We marched early. Although we rode very hard we only got to the village of L'eau Chaud, or Warm Spring [Ojo Caliente], some time in the afternoon. The distance was about 45 miles. The difference of climate was astonishing; after we left the hills and deep snows, we found ourselves on plains where there was no snow, and where vegetation was sprouting.
The village of Warm Springs, or Aqua [Agua] Caliente in their language, is situated on the eastern branch [bank] of a creek of that name,[I'-3] and at a distance presents to the eye a square inclosure of mud walls, the houses forming the walls. They are flat on top, or with extremely little ascent on one side, where there are spouts to carry off the water of the melting snow and rain when it falls; which, we were informed, had been but once in two years previous to our entering the country. Inside of the inclosure were the different streets of houses of the same fashion, all of one story; the doors were narrow, the windows small, and in one or two houses there were talc lights [window-panes of that material]. This village had a mill near it, situated on the little creek, which made very good flour. The population consisted of civilized Indians, but much mixed blood.
Here we had a dance which is called the fandango; but there was one which was copied from the Mexicans, is now danced in the first societies of New Spain, and has even been introduced at the court of Madrid.
This village may contain 500 souls. The greatest natural curiosity is the warm springs, which are two in number, about 10 yards apart, each affording sufficient water for a mill-seat. They appeared to be impregnated with copper, and were more than 33° above blood heat. From this village the Tetaus drove off 2,000 horses at one time, when at war with the Spaniards.
Mar. 2d. We marched late, and passed several little mud-walled villages and settlements, all of which had round mud towers of the ancient shape and construction, to defend the inhabitants from the intrusions of the savages. I was this day shown the ruins of several old villages which had been taken and destroyed by the Tetaus. We were frequently stopped by the women, who invited us into their houses to eat; and in every place where we halted a moment there was a contest who should be our hosts. My poor lads who had been frozen were conducted home by old men, who would cause their daughters to dress their feet, provide their victuals and drink, and at night give them the best bed in the house. In short, all their conduct brought to my recollection the hospitality of the ancient patriarchs, and caused me to sigh with regret at the corruption of that noble principle by the polish of modern ages.
We descended the creek of Aqua Caliente about 12 miles, where it joined the river of Conejos [Rio Chama[I'-4]] from the west. This river was about 30 yards wide, and was settled for 12 miles above its junction with the Aqua Caliente, as the latter was in its whole course from the village of that name. From where they form a junction it was about 15 miles to the Rio del Norte, on the eastern branch [read bank] of which was situated the village of St. John's [San Juan], which was the residence of the president priest of the province, who had resided in it 40 years.
The house-tops of the village of St. John's were crowded, as well as the streets, when we entered, and at the door of the public quarters we were met by the president priest. When my companion, who commanded the escort, received him in a street and embraced him, all the poor creatures who stood round strove to kiss the ring or hand of the holy father; for myself, I saluted him in the usual style. My men were conducted into the quarters, and I went to the house of the priest, where we were treated with politeness. He offered us coffee, chocolate, or whatever we thought proper, and desired me to consider myself at home in his house.
As I was going, some time after, to the quarters of my men, I was addressed at the door by a man in broken English: "My friend, I am very sorry to see you here; we are all prisoners in this country and can never return; I have been a prisoner for nearly three years, and cannot get out." I replied: "that as for his being a prisoner, it must be for some crime; that with respect to myself I felt no apprehension; and requested him to speak French, as I could hardly understand his English." He began to demand of me so many different questions on the mode of my getting into the country, my intention, etc., that by the time I arrived in the room of my men, I was perfectly satisfied of his having been ordered by some person to endeavor to obtain some confession or acknowledgment of sinister designs in my having appeared on the frontiers, and some confidential communications which might implicate me. As he had been rather insolent in his inquiries, I ordered my men to shut and fasten the door. I then told him that I believed him to be an emissary sent on purpose by the governor, or some person, to endeavor to betray me; that all men of that description were scoundrels, and never should escape punishment, whilst I possessed the power to chastise them—immediately ordering my men to seize him, and cautioning him, at the same time, that, if he cried out, or made the least resistance, I would be obliged to make use of the saber which I had in my hand. On this he was so much alarmed, that he begged me for God's sake not to injure him; he also said that he had been ordered by the government to meet me, and endeavor to trace out what and who I was, and what were my designs, by endeavoring to produce a confidence in him, by his exclaiming against the Spaniards and complaining of the tyranny which they had exercised toward him. After this confession, I ordered my men to release him, and told him that I looked upon him as too contemptible for further notice; but that he might tell the governor, the next time he employed emissaries, to choose those of more abilities and sense; and that I questioned if his Excellency would find the sifting of us an easy task.
This man's name was Baptiste Lalande;[I'-5] he had come from the Illinois to the Pawnees, to trade with goods furnished him by William Morrison, a gentleman of the Illinois, and thence to New Mexico with the goods which he had procured, and established himself; he was the same man on whom Robinson had a claim. He returned into the priest's house with me, and, instead of making any complaint, he in reply to their inquiries of who I was, etc., informed them that when he left Louisiana I was governor of the Illinois. This I presume he took for granted from my having commanded for some time the post of Kaskaskias, the first military post the United States had established in that country since the peace; however, the report served to add to the respect with which my companion and host treated me.
I had at this place the first good meal, wine, etc., which, with the heat of the house, and perhaps rather an immoderate use of the refreshments allowed me, produced an attack of something like cholera morbus, which alarmed me considerably, and made me determine to be more abstemious in future.
This father was a great naturalist, or rather florist; he had large collections of flowers, plants, etc., and several works on his favorite studies, the margins and bottoms of which were filled with his notes in the Castilian language. As I neither had a natural turn for botany sufficient to induce me to puzzle my head much with the Latin, nor understood Castilian, I enjoyed but little of the lectures which he continued to give me for nearly two hours on those subjects; but, by the exercise of a small degree of patience, I entirely acquired the esteem of this worthy father, he calling me his son, and lamenting extremely that my faith had not made me one of the holy Catholic church.
The father, being informed that I had some astronomical instruments with me, expressed a desire to see them. All that I had here was my sextant and a large glass which magnified considerably, calculated for the day or night; the remainder of my instruments being with my sergeant and party. On his examining the sextant, and my showing him the effect of it in the reflection of the sun, he, as well as hundreds who surrounded us, appeared more surprised at the effect of the instrument than any nation of savages I was ever among. Here an idea struck me as extraordinary—how a man who appeared to be a perfect master of the ancient languages, a botanist, mineralogist, and chemist, should be so ignorant of the powers of reflection and the first principles of mathematics. But my friend explained that enigma, by informing me of the care the Spanish government took to prevent any branch of science from being made a pursuit, which would have a tendency to extend the views of the subjects of the provinces to the geography of their country, or any other subject which would bring to view a comparison of their local advantages and situations with other countries.[I'-6]
St. John's was inclosed with a mud wall, and probably contained 1,000 souls; its population consisted principally of civilized Indians, as indeed does that of all the villages of New Mexico, the whites not forming one-twentieth part of the inhabitants.
Mar. 3d.[I'-7] We marched after breakfast, B. Lalande accompanying us, and in about six miles came to a village [Santa Cruz], where I suppose there were more than 2,000 souls. Here we halted at the house of a priest, who, understanding that I would not kiss his hand, would not present it to me. The conduct and behavior of a young priest who came in was such as in our country would have been amply sufficient forever to have banished him from the clerical association—strutting about with a dirk in his boot, a cane in his hand, whispering to one girl, chucking another under the chin, going out with a third, etc.
From this village [Santa Cruz] to another small village [Pojoaque], of 500 inhabitants, is seven miles. At each of those villages is a small stream, sufficient for the purpose of watering their fields. At the father's house we took coffee. From this village [Pojoaque] it was 17 miles to another [Tesuque], of 400 civilized Indians. Here we changed horses and prepared for entering the capital [Santa Fé[I'-8]], which we came in sight of in the evening. It is situated along the banks of a small [Santa Fé] creek, which comes down from the mountains, and runs west to the Rio del Norte. The length of the capital on the creek may be estimated at one mile; it is but three streets in width.
Its appearance from a distance struck my mind with the same effect as a fleet of the flat-bottomed boats which are seen in the spring and fall seasons, descending the Ohio river. There are two churches, the magnificence of whose steeples form a striking contrast to the miserable appearance of the houses.[I'-9] On the north side of the town is the square of soldiers' houses, equal to 120 or 140 on each flank. The public square is in the center of the town; on the north side of it is situated the palace, as they term it, or government house, with the quarters for guards, etc. The other side of the square is occupied by the clergy and public officers. In general the houses have a shed before the front, some of which have a flooring of brick; the consequence is that the streets are very narrow, say in general 25 feet. The supposed population is 4,500 souls. On our entering the town the crowd was great, and followed us to the government house. When we dismounted we were ushered in through various rooms, the floors of which were covered with skins of buffalo, bear, or some other animal. We waited in a chamber for some time, until his Excellency appeared, when we rose, and the following conversation took place in French:
Governor. Do you speak French?
Pike. Yes, sir.
Governor. You come to reconnoiter our country, do you?
Pike. I marched to reconnoiter our own.
Governor. In what character are you?
Pike. In my proper character, an officer of the United States army.
Governor. And this Robinson—is he attached to your party?
Pike. No.
Governor. Do you know him?
Pike. Yes; he is from St. Louis. (I understood the doctor had been sent 45 leagues from Santa Fe, under a strong guard. The haughty and unfriendly reception of the governor induced me to believe war must have been declared, and that if it were known Dr. Robinson had accompanied me, he would be treated with great severity. I was correct in saying he was not attached to my party, for he was only a volunteer, who could not properly be said to be one of my command.)
Governor. How many men have you?
Pike. Fifteen.
Governor. And this Robinson makes sixteen?
Pike. I have already told your Excellency that he does not belong to my party, and shall answer no more interrogatories on that subject.
Governor. When did you leave St. Louis?
Pike. July 15th.
Governor. I think you marched in June.
Pike. No, sir!
Governor. Well! Return with Mr. Bartholomew to his house; come here again at seven o'clock, and bring your papers.
On which we returned to the house of my friend Bartholomew, who seemed much hurt at the interview.
At the door of the government house, I met the old Frenchman to whom I had given the scrap of paper on the 27th of February. He had left us in the morning, and, as I suppose, hurried in to make his report, and I presume had presented this paper to his Excellency. I demanded, with a look of contempt, if he had made his report? To which he made reply in a humble tone, and began to excuse himself; but I did not wait to hear his excuses. At the hour appointed we returned, when the governor demanded my papers. I told him that I understood my trunk had been taken possession of by his guard. He expressed surprise, immediately ordered it in, and also sent for one Solomon Colly, formerly a sergeant in our army, and one of the unfortunate company of [Captain Philip] Nolan. We were seated, when he ordered Colly to demand my name, to which I replied. He then demanded in what province I was born. I answered in English, and then addressed his Excellency in French, and told him that I did not think it necessary to enter into such a catechising; that if he would be at the pains of reading my commission from the United States, and my orders from my general, it would be all that I presumed would be necessary to convince his Excellency that I came with no hostile intentions toward the Spanish government; that, on the contrary, I had express instructions to guard against giving them offense or alarm; and that his Excellency would be convinced that myself and party were rather to be considered objects on which the so much celebrated generosity of the Spanish nation might be exercised, than proper subjects to occasion the opposite sentiments.
He then requested to see my commission and orders, which I read to him in French; on which he got up and gave me his hand, for the first time, and said he was happy to be acquainted with me as a man of honor and a gentleman; that I could retire this evening and take my trunk with me; and that on the morrow he would make further arrangements.
Mar. 4th. I was desired by the governor to bring up my trunk, in order that he might make some observations on my route, etc. When he ordered me to take my trunk over night, I had conceived that the examination of papers was over. As many of my documents were intrusted to the care of my men, and I found that the inhabitants were treating the men with liquor, I was fearful they would become intoxicated, and through inadvertency betray or discover the papers. I had therefore obtained several of them and put them in the trunk, when an officer arrived for myself and it, and I had no opportunity of taking them out again before I was taken up to the palace. I discovered instantly that I had been deceived, but it was too late to remedy the evil.
After examining the contents of my trunk, he informed me that I must, with my troops, go to Chihuahua, province of Biscay, to appear before the commandant-general. He added: "You have the key of your trunk in your own possession; the trunk will be put under charge of the officer who commands your escort." The following conversation then took place:
Pike. If we go to Chihuahua we must be considered as prisoners of war?
Governor. By no means.
Pike. You have already disarmed my men without my knowledge; are their arms to be returned or not?
Governor. They can receive them any moment.
Pike. But, sir, I cannot consent to be led three or four hundred leagues out of my route, without its being by force of arms.
Governor. I know you do not go voluntarily; but I will give you a certificate from under my hand of my having obliged you to march.
Pike. I will address you a letter on the subject.[I'-10]
Governor. You will dine with me to-day, and march afterward to a village about six miles distant, escorted by Captain Anthony D'Almansa, with a detachment of dragoons, who will accompany you to where the remainder of your escort is now waiting for you, under the command of the officer [Don Facundo Malgares] who commanded the expedition to the Pawnees.
Pike. I would not wish to be impertinent in my observations to your Excellency; but pray, sir! do you not think it was a greater infringement of our territory to send 600 miles in the Pawnees', than for me with our small party to come on the frontiers of yours with an intent to descend Red river?
Governor. I do not understand you.
Pike. No, sir! any further explanation is unnecessary.
I then returned to the house of my friend Bartholomew and wrote my letter to his Excellency, which I had not finished before we were hurried to dinner.
In the morning I received from the governor, by the hands of his private secretary, $21, notifying to me that it was the amount of the king's allowance for my party to Chihuahua, and that it would be charged to me on account of my subsistence. From this I clearly understood that it was calculated that the expenses of the party to Chihuahua would be defrayed by the United States. I also received by the same hands, from his Excellency, a shirt and neck-cloth, with his compliments, wishing me to accept of them, "as they had been made in Spain by his sister and never worn by any person." For this I returned him my sincere acknowledgments; and it may not be deemed irrelevant if I explain at this period the miserable appearance we made, and the situation we were in, with the causes of it.
When we left our interpreter and one man [Vasquez and Smith] on the Arkansaw, we were obliged to carry all our baggage on our backs; consequently, that which was the most useful was preferred to the few ornamental parts of dress we possessed. The ammunition claimed our first care; tools were secondary; leather, leggings, boots, and mockinsons were the next in consideration. Consequently, I left all my uniform, clothing, trunks, etc., as did the men, except what they had on their backs; conceiving that which would secure the feet and legs from the cold to be preferable to any less indispensable portion of our dress. Thus, when we presented ourselves at Santa Fe, I was dressed in a pair of blue trousers, mockinsons, blanket coat, and a cap made of scarlet cloth lined with fox-skin; my poor fellows were in leggings, breech cloths and leather coats, and there was not a hat in the whole party. This appearance was extremely mortifying to us all, especially as soldiers; although some of the officers used frequently to observe to me, that "worth made the man," etc., with a variety of adages to the same amount. Yet the first impression made on the ignorant is hard to eradicate; and a greater proof cannot be given of the ignorance of the common people, than their asking if we lived in houses, or in camps like the Indians, and if we wore hats in our country. Those observations are sufficient to show the impression our uncouth appearance made amongst them.
The dinner at the governor's was rather splendid, having a variety of dishes and wines of the southern provinces; and when his Excellency was a little warmed with the influence of cheering liquor, he became very sociable. He informed me that there existed a serious difficulty between the commandant-general of the internal provinces and the Marquis Caso Calvo, who had given permission to Mr. [William] Dunbar to explore the Ouchata [Washita], contrary to the general principles of their government; in consequence of which the former had made representations against the latter to the court of Madrid. After dinner his Excellency ordered his coach; Captain D'Almansa, Bartholomew, and myself entered with him, and he drove out three miles. He was drawn by six mules and attended by a guard of cavalry. When we parted his adieu was, "remember Allencaster, in peace or war."
I left a note for my sergeant, with instructions to keep up good discipline and not be alarmed or discouraged. As I was about leaving the public square, poor Colly, the American prisoner, came up with tears in his eyes, and hoped I would not forget him when I arrived in the United States.
After we left the governor we rode on about three miles to a defile, where we halted for the troops. I soon found that the old soldier who accompanied us and commanded our escort was fond of a drop of the cheering liquor, as his boy carried a bottle in his cochmelies [read cojinillos], a small leather case attached to the saddle for the purpose of carrying small articles.[I'-11] We were accompanied by my friend Bartholomew. We ascended a hill and galloped on until about ten o'clock; it was snowing hard all the time. Then we came to a precipice, which we descended with great difficulty, from the obscurity of the night, to the small village,[I'-12] where we put up in the quarters of the priest, he being absent.
After supper, Captain D'Almansa related to me that he had served his Catholic majesty 40 years to arrive at the rank he then held, which was that of a first lieutenant in the line and a captain by brevet, whilst he had seen various young Europeans promoted over his head. After the old man had taken his quantum sufficit and gone to sleep, my friend and myself sat up for some hours, he explaining to me their situation, the great desire they felt for a change of affairs and an open trade with the United States. I pointed out to him with chalk on the floor the geographical connection and route from North Mexico and Louisiana, and finally gave him a certificate addressed to the citizens of the United States, stating his friendly disposition and his being a man of influence. This paper he seemed to estimate as a very valuable acquisition, as he was decidedly of opinion we would invade that country the ensuing spring; and not all my assurances to the contrary could eradicate that idea.
Mar. 5th. As it snowed very hard in the morning, we did not march until eleven o'clock. In the meantime, Bartholomew and myself paid a visit to an old invalid Spaniard, who received us in the most hospitable manner, giving us chocolate, etc. He made many inquiries as to our government and religion, and of [Bartholomew], who did not fail to give them the brightest coloring; he being enthusiastic in their favor from his many conversations with me, and drawing comparisons with his own country. What appeared to the old veteran most extraordinary was that we ever changed our president. I was obliged to draw his powers on a nearer affinity with those of a monarch than they really are, in order that they might comprehend his station and that there was a perfect freedom of conscience permitted in our country. He, however, expressed his warm approbation of the measure. In the priest's house at which we put up were two orphan girls, who were adopted by him in their infancy and at this time constituted his whole family.
I bid adieu to my friend Bartholomew, and could not avoid shedding tears; he embraced me and all my men.
We arrived at the village of St. Domingo[I'-13] at two o'clock. It is, as I supposed, nine miles [to this place, which is situated] on the east side of the Rio del Norte, and is a large village, the population being about 1,000 natives, generally governed by its own chief. The chiefs of the villages were distinguished by a cane with a silver head and black tassel. On our arrival at the public house Captain D'Almansa was waited on by the governor, cap in hand, to receive his orders as to furnishing our quarters and ourselves with wood, water, provisions, etc. The house itself contained nothing but bare walls and small grated windows, which brought to my recollection the representations of the Spanish inhabitants given by Dr. [John] Moore [the Scottish writer, 1730-1802], in his travels through Spain, Italy, etc. This village, as well as those of St. Philip's and St. Bartholomew, [San Felipe and San Bartolomé] is of the nation of Keres [or Queres] many of whom do not yet speak good Spanish.
After we had refreshed ourselves a little, the captain sent for the keys of the church; and when we entered it, I was much astonished to find, inclosed in mud-brick walls, many rich paintings, and the saint (Domingo) as large as life, elegantly ornamented with gold and silver. The captain made a slight inclination of the head, and intimated to me that this was the patron of the village. We then ascended into the gallery, where the choir are generally placed. In an outside hall was placed another image of the saint, less richly ornamented, where the populace repaired daily and knelt to return thanks for benefactions received, or to ask new favors. Many young girls, indeed, chose the time of our visit to be on their knees before the holy patron. From the flat roof of the church we had a delightful view of the village; the Rio del Norte [and Jemez mountains] on the west; the mountains of St. Dies [San Diaz, i. e., Sandia] to the south; the valley round the town, on which were numerous herds of goats, sheep, and asses—upon the whole, this was one of the handsomest views in New Mexico.
Mar. 6th. Marched down the Rio del Norte on the east side. Snow one foot deep. Passed large flocks of goats. At [opposite] the village of St. Philip's [San Felipe[I'-14]] we crossed [the Rio Grande to the town over] a bridge of eight arches, constructed as follows: the pillars made of neat woodwork, something similar to a crate, and in the form of a keel-boat, the sharp end or bow to the current; this crate or butment was filled with stone, in which the river lodged sand, clay, etc., until it had become of a tolerably firm consistency. On the top of the pillars were laid pine logs, lengthways, squared on two sides; being joined pretty close, these made a tolerable bridge for horses, but would not have been very safe for carriages, as there were no hand-rails.
On our arrival at the house of the father, we were received in a very polite and friendly manner; and before my departure we seemed to have been friends for years past. During our dinner, at which we had a variety of wines, we were entertained with music, composed of bass drums, French horns, violins, and cymbals. We likewise entered into a long and candid conversation as to the Creoles, wherein he spared neither the government nor its administrators. As to government and religion, Father Rubi displayed a liberality of opinion and a fund of knowledge which astonished me. He showed me a statistical table on which he had, in a regular manner, taken the whole province of New Mexico by villages, beginning at Tous [Taos], on the northwest, and ending with Valencia on the south, giving their latitude, longitude, and population, whether natives or Spaniards, civilized or barbarous, Christians or pagans, numbers, names of the nations, when converted, how governed, military force, clergy, salary, etc.—in short, a complete geographical, statistical, and historical sketch of the province. Of this I wished to obtain a copy, but perceived that the captain was somewhat surprised at its having been shown to me. When we parted, we promised to write to each other, which I performed from Chihuahua.
Here was an old Indian who was extremely inquisitive to know if we were Spaniards; to which an old gentleman called Don Francisco, who appeared to be an inmate of Father Rubi's, replied in the affirmative. "But," said the Indian, "they do not speak Castillian." "True," replied the other; "but you are an Indian of the nation of Keres, are you not?" "Yes." "Well, the Utahs are Indians also?" "Yes." "But still you do not understand them, they speaking a different language." "True," replied the Indian. "Well," said the old gentleman, "those strangers are likewise Spaniards, but do not speak the same language with us." This reasoning seemed to satisfy the poor savage; and I could not but smile at the ingenuity displayed to make him believe there was no other nation of whites but the Spaniards.
Whilst at dinner, Father Rubi was informed that one of his parishioners was at the point of death, and wished his attendance to receive his confession.
We took our departure, but were shortly after overtaken by our friend, who, after giving me another hearty shake of the hand, left us. Crossed the river and passed two small hamlets and houses on the road to the village of St. Dies,[I'-15] opposite the mountain of the same name, where we were received in a house of Father Rubi, this making part of his domains.
Mar. 7th. Marched at nine o'clock through a country better cultivated and inhabited than any I had yet seen. Arrived at Albuquerque,[I'-16] a village on the east side of the Rio del Norte. We were received by Father Ambrosio Guerra in a very flattering manner, and led into his hall. From thence, after taking some refreshments, we went into an inner apartment, where he ordered his adopted children of the female sex to appear. They came in by turns—Indians of various nations, Spanish, French, and finally two young girls, whom from their complexion I conceived to be English. On perceiving I noticed them, he ordered the rest to retire, many of whom were beautiful, and directed those to sit down on the sofa beside me. Thus situated, he told me that they had been taken to the east by the Tetaus and passed from one nation to another, until he purchased them, at that time infants; they could recollect neither their names nor language, but, concluding they were my countrywomen, he ordered them to embrace me as a mark of their friendship, to which they appeared nothing loath. We then sat down to dinner, which consisted of various dishes, excellent wines, and, to crown all, we were waited on by half a dozen of those beautiful girls who, like Hebe at the feast of the gods, converted our wine to nectar, and with their ambrosial breath shed incense on our cups. After the cloth was removed some time, the priest beckoned me to follow him, and led me into his sanctum sanctorum, where he had the rich and majestic images of various saints, and in the midst the crucified Jesus, crowned with thorns, with rich rays of golden glory surrounding his head—in short, the room being hung with black silk curtains, served but to augment the gloom and majesty of the scene. When he conceived my imagination sufficiently wrought up, he put on a black gown and miter, kneeled before the cross, took hold of my hand, and endeavored gently to pull me down beside him. On my refusal, he prayed fervently for a few minutes and then rose, laid his hands on my shoulders, and, as I conceived, blessed me. He then said to me, "You will not be a Christian. Oh! what a pity! oh! what a pity!" He then threw off his robes, took me by the hand and led me out of the company smiling; but the scene I had gone through had made too serious an impression on my mind to be eradicated until we took our departure, which was in an hour after, having received great marks of friendship from the father.
Both above and below Albuquerque, the citizens were beginning to open canals, to let in the water of the river to fertilize the plains and fields which border its banks on both sides; where we saw men, women, and children, of all ages and sexes, at the joyful labor which was to crown with rich abundance their future harvest and insure them plenty for the ensuing year. Those scenes brought to my recollection the bright descriptions given by Savary of the opening of the canals of Egypt. The cultivation of the fields was commencing and everything appeared to give life and gayety to the surrounding scenery.
We crossed the Rio del Norte [at Atrisco[I'-17]], a little below the village of Albuquerque, where it was 400 yards wide, but not more than three feet deep and excellent fording. At Father Ambrosio's was the only chart we saw in the province that gave the near connection of the sources of the Rio del Norte and the Rio Colorado of California, with their ramifications.
On our arriving at the next village, a dependency of Father Ambrosio's, we were invited into the house of the commandant. When I entered, I saw a man sitting by the fire reading a book; with blooming cheeks, fine complexion, and a genius-speaking eye, he arose from his seat. It was Robinson! Not that Robinson who left my camp on the headwaters of the Rio del Norte, pale, emaciated, with uncombed locks and beard of eight months' growth, but with fire, unsubdued enterprise, and fortitude. The change was indeed surprising. I started back and exclaimed, "Robinson!" "Yes." "But I do not know you," I replied. "But I know you," he exclaimed; "I would not be unknown to you here, in this land of tyranny and oppression, to avoid all the pains they dare to inflict. Yet, my friend, I grieve to see you here and thus, for I presume you are a prisoner." I replied "No! I wear my sword, you see; all my men have their arms, and the moment they dare to ill-treat us we will surprise their guards in the night, carry off some horses, make our way to Appaches, and then set them at defiance."
At this moment Captain D'Almansa entered, and I introduced Robinson to him as my companion de voyage and friend, he having before seen him at Santa Fe. He did not appear much surprised, and received him with a significant smile, as much as to say, "I knew this." We then marched out to the place where the soldiers were encamped, not one of whom would recognize him, agreeably to orders, until I gave them the sign. Then it was a joyful meeting, as the whole party was enthusiastically fond of him. He gave me the following relation of his adventures after he left me:
"I marched the first day up the branch [Rio Conejos] on which we were situated, as you know we had concluded it would be most proper to follow it to its source and then cross the mountains [San Juan range] west, where we had conceived we should find the Spanish settlements, and at night encamped on its banks. The second day I left it a little, bore more south, and was getting up the side of the mountain, when I discovered two Indians, for whom I made. They were armed with bows and arrows, and were extremely shy of my approach; but after some time, confidence being somewhat restored, I signified a wish to go to Santa Fe, when they pointed due south, down the river I left you on. As I could not believe them, I reiterated the inquiry and received the same reply. I then concluded that we had been deceived, and that you were on the Rio del Norte, instead of the Red river. I was embarrassed whether I should not immediately return to apprise you of it; but concluded it to be too late, as I was discovered by the Indians, whom if I had not met, or some others, I should have continued on, crossed the mountains to the waters of the Colorado, and descended these, until from their course I should have discovered my mistake. I therefore offered them some presents to conduct me in; they agreed, conducted me to the camp where their women were, and in about five minutes we were on our march. That night we encamped in the woods; I slept very little, owing to my distrust of my companions. The next day, at three o'clock, we arrived at the village of Aqua Caliente, where I was immediately taken into the house of the commandant, and expresses were dispatched to Santa Fe. That night I was put to sleep on a mattress on the floor. The next day we departed early, leaving my arms and baggage at the commandant's, he promising to have them forwarded to me at the city. On our arrival at Santa Fe, the governor received me with great austerity at first, entered into an examination of my business, and took possession of all my papers. After all this was explained, he ordered me to a room where the officers were confined when under an arrest, and a non-commissioned officer to attend me when I walked out into the city, which I had free permission to do. I was supplied with provisions from the governor's table, who had promised he would write to Baptiste Lalande to come down and answer to the claim I had against him; whose circumstance I had apprised myself of. The second day the governor sent for me, and informed me that he had made inquiry as to the abilities of Lalande to discharge the debt, and found that he possessed no property; but that at some future period he would secure the money for me. To this I made a spirited remonstrance, as an infringement of our treaties and a protection of a refugee citizen of the United States against his creditors. But it had no other effect than to obtain me an invitation to dinner, and rather more respectful treatment than I had hitherto received from his Excellency; who, being slightly afflicted with dropsy, requested my advice as to his case. For this I prescribed a regimen and mode of treatment which happened to differ from the one adopted by a monk and practicing physician of the place, and thus brought on me his enmity and ill offices. The ensuing day I was ordered by the governor to hold myself in readiness to proceed to the internal parts of the country, to which I agreed; determining not to leave the country in a clandestine manner, unless they attempted to treat me with indignity or hardship; and conceiving it in my power to join you on your retreat, or find Red river and descend it, should you not be brought in; but, in that case, to share your destiny. Added to this I felt a desire to see more of the country, for which purpose I was willing to run the risk of future consequences. We marched the ensuing day, I having been equipped by my friend with some small articles of which I stood in need, such as I would receive out of the numerous offers of his country. The fourth day I arrived at the village of St. Fernandez, where I was received and taken charge of by Lieutenant Don Faciendo Malgares, who commanded the expedition to the Pawnees, and whom you will find a gentleman, a soldier, and one of the most gallant men you ever knew. With him I could no longer keep up the disguise, and when he informed me, two days since, that you were on the way in, I confessed to him that I belonged to your party. We have ever since been anticipating the pleasure we three will enjoy in our journey to Chihuahua; for he is to command the escort, his dragoons being now encamped in the field, awaiting your arrival. Since I have been with him I have practiced physic in the country in order to have an opportunity of examining the manners, customs, etc., of the people, to endeavor to ascertain their political and religious feelings, and to gain every other species of information which would be necessary to our country or ourselves. I am now here, on a visit to this man's wife, attended by a corporal of dragoons as a guard, who answers very well as a waiter, guide, etc., in my excursions through the country; but I will immediately return with you to Malgares."
Thus ended Robinson's relation, and I in return related what had occurred to the party and myself. We agreed upon our future line of conduct, and then joined my old captain in the house. He had been persuaded to tarry all night, provided it was agreeable to me, as our host wished Robinson to remain until the next day. With this proposition I complied, in order that Robinson and myself might have a further discussion before we joined Malgares, who I suspected would watch us closely. The troops proceeded to the village of Tousac that evening.
Sunday, Mar. 8th. Marched after taking breakfast and halted at a little village, three miles distant, called Tousac,[I'-18] situated on the west side of the Rio del Norte. The men informed me that, on their arrival over night, they had all been furnished with an excellent supper; and after supper, wine and a violin, with a collection of the young people to a dance. When we left this village the priest sent a cart down to carry us over, as the river was nearly four feet deep. When we approached the village of St. Fernandez[I'-19] we were met by Lieutenant Malgares, accompanied by two or three other officers; he received with the most manly frankness and the politeness of a man of the world. Yet my feelings were such as almost overpowered me, and obliged me to ride by myself for a short period in order to recover myself. Those sensations arose from my knowledge that he had been absent from Chihuahua ten months, and it had cost the king of Spain more than $10,000 to effect that [capture of myself and party] which a mere accident and the deception of the governor had accomplished.
Malgares, finding I did not feel myself at ease, took every means in his power to banish my reserve, which made it impossible on my part not to endeavor to appear cheerful. We conversed as well as we could, and in two hours were as well acquainted as some people would be in the same number of months. Malgares possessed none of the haughty Castillian pride, but much of the urbanity of a Frenchman; and I will add my feeble testimony to his loyalty, by declaring that he was one of the few officers or citizens whom I found who were loyal to their king, who felt indignant at the degraded state of the Spanish monarchy, and who deprecated a revolution or separation of Spanish America from the mother country, unless France should usurp the government of Spain. These are the men who possess the heads to plan, the hearts to feel, and the hands to carry this great and important work into execution. In the afternoon our friend wrote the following notification to the alcaldes of several small villages around us: