CHAPTER III.

ITINERARY, CONCLUDED: THROUGH TEXAS TO NATCHITOCHES ON THE RED RIVER OF LOUISIANA, JUNE 1ST-JULY 1ST, 1807.

Monday, June 1st. Arrived at the Presidio Rio Grande[III'-1] at eight o'clock. This place was the position to which our friend Barelo had been ordered, and which had been very highly spoken of to him; but he found himself miserably mistaken, for it was with the greatest difficulty we obtained anything to eat, which mortified him extremely.

When at Chihuahua, General Salcedo had asked me if I had not lost a man by desertion, to which I replied in the negative. He then informed me that an American had arrived at the Presidio Rio Grande in the last year; that he had at first confined him, but that he was now released and practicing physic; and that he wished me to examine him on my arrival. I therefore had him sent for; the moment he entered the room I discovered he never had received a liberal education, or been accustomed to polished society. I told him the reason I had requested to see him, and that I had it in my power to serve him if I found him a character worthy of interference.

He then related the following story: That his name was Martin Henderson; that he was born in Rock Bridge County, State of Virginia; that he had been brought up a farmer; but that, coming early to the State of Kentucky and to Tennessee, he had acquired a taste for frontier life, and that, in the spring of 1806, himself and four companions had left the Saline in the District of Saint Genevieve, Upper Louisiana, in order to penetrate through the woods to the province of Texas; that his companions had left him on the White [Arkansaw] river, and that he had continued on; that in swimming some western branch his horse sunk under him, and it was with difficulty he made the shore with his gun. Here he waited two or three days until his horse rose, and he then got his saddle-bags; but all his notes on the country, courses, etc., were destroyed. He then proceeded on foot for a few days, when he was met by 30 or 40 Osage warriors, who, on his telling them he was going to the Spaniards, were about to kill him; but on his saying he would go to the Americans, they held a consultation over him, and finally seized on his clothes and divided them between them; then his pistols, compass, dirk, and watch, which they took to pieces and hung in their noses and ears; then they stripped him naked, and round his body found a belt with gold pieces sewed in it; this they also took, and finally seized on his gun and ammunition, and were marching off to leave him in that situation; but he followed them, thinking it better to be killed than left in that state to die by hunger and cold. The savages after some time halted, and one pulled off an old pair of leggings and gave him, another mockinsons, a third a buffalo robe, and the one who had carried his heavy rifle had by this time become tired of his prize, they never using rifles; they counted him out 25 charges of powder and ball, then sent two Indians with him, who put him on a war-trace, which they said led to American establishments; and as soon as the Indians left him he directed his course as he supposed for Saint Antonio. He then killed deer and made himself some clothes. He proceeded on and expended all his ammunition three days before he struck the Grand Road, nearly at the Rio Grande. He further added that he had discovered two mines, one of silver and the other of gold, the situation of which he particularly described; but that the general had taken the samples from him. That he would not attempt to pass himself on us for a physician, and hoped, as he only used simples and was careful to do no harm, we would not betray him. He further added that since his being in the country he had made, from information, maps of all the adjacent country; but that they had been taken from him.

I had early concluded that he was an agent of Burr's, and was revolving in my mind whether I should denounce him as such to the commandant, but feeling reluctant from an apprehension that he might be innocent, when one of my men came in and informed me that it was Trainer, who had killed Major Bashier [?] in the wilderness between Natchez and Tennessee, when he was his hireling. He shot him, when taking a nap at noon, through the head with his own pistols. The governor of the State and the major's friends offered a very considerable reward for his apprehension, which obliged him to quit the State; and with an Amazonian woman, who handled arms and hunted like a savage, he retreated to the source of the White river; but, being routed from that retreat by Captain Maney [James B. Many], of the United States army and a party of Cherokees, he and his female companion bore west; she, proving to be pregnant, was left by him in the desert, and I was informed arrived at the settlements on Red river, but by what means is to me unknown. The articles and money taken from him by the Osages were the property of the deceased major. I then reported these circumstances to Captain Barelo, who had him immediately confined, until the will of Governor Cordero should be known, who informed me, when at Saint Antonio, that he would have him sent to some place of perpetual confinement in the interior. Thus vengeance has overtaken the ingrate and murderer when he least expected it.

In the evening we went to see some performers on the slack-rope, who were no wise extraordinary in their performances, except in language which would bring a blush on the cheek of the most abandoned of the female sex in the United States.

June 2d. In the day time were endeavoring to regulate our watches by my compass, and in an instant that my back was turned some person stole it. I could by no means recover it, and I had strong suspicions that the theft was approved, as the instrument had occasioned great dissatisfaction.

This day the captain went out to dine with some monks, who would have thought it profanation to have had us as their guests, notwithstanding the priest of the place had escorted us round the town and to all the missions; we found him a very communicative, liberal, and intelligent man. We saw no resource for a dinner but in the inventive genius of a little Frenchman who had accompanied us from Chihuahua, where he had been officiating one year as cook to the general, of whom he gave us many interesting anecdotes, and in fact was of infinite service to us; we supported him and he served as cook, interpreter, etc. It was astonishing with what zeal he strove to acquire news and information for us; and as he had been four times through the provinces, he had acquired considerable knowledge of the country, people, etc. He went off and in a very short time returned with table-cloth, plates, a dinner of three or four courses, a bottle of wine, and a pretty girl to attend on the table. We inquired by what magic he had brought this about, and found that he had been to one of the officers and notified him that it was the wish of the commandant that he should supply the two Americans with a decent dinner, which was done; but we took care to compensate them for their trouble. This we explained to Barelo in the evening, and he laughed heartily.

We parted from the captain with regrets and assurances of remembrance. Departed at five o'clock, escorted by Ensign [Blank] and [blank] men; came on to the Rio Grande, which we passed, and encamped at a Rancho on the other side. Distance seven miles.[III'-2]

June 3d. The mosquitoes, which had commenced the first night on this side of Montelovez, now became very troublesome. This day saw the first horse-flies; saw some wild horses; came on in the open plain, and in a dry time, when there was no water. Distance 30 miles.

June 4th. Came 16 miles to a pond and dined; great sign of wild horses; in the afternoon to the river Noissour [Nueces], swimming where [i. e., too deep to ford when] we arrived, although it was not more than ten steps wide. Distance 36 miles.[III'-3]

June 5th. After losing two horses in passing the river, the water having fallen so that we forded, we crossed and continued our route. Passed two herds of wild horses, which left the road for us. Halted at a pond on the left of the road, 15 miles, where we saw the first oak since we left New Mexico, and this was scrub oak. Passed many deer yesterday and to-day. Came on to a small creek at night, where we met a party of the company of Saint Fernandez returning from the line. Distance 31 miles.[III'-4]

June 6th. Marched early and met several parties of troops returning from Texas, where they had been sent to re-enforce, when our troops were near the line. Immense numbers of cross-roads made by the wild horses. Killed a wild hog [peccary, Dicotyles torquatus], which on examination I found to be very different from the tame breed, smaller, brown, with long hair and short legs; they are to be found in all parts between Red river and the Spanish settlements.

Passed an encampment made by the Lee Panes [Lipans[III'-5]]; met one of said nation with his wife. In the afternoon struck the woodland, which was the first we had been in from the time we left the Osage nation. Distance 39 miles.

Sunday, June 7th. Came on 15 miles to the [Medina] river Mariano—the line between Texas and Cogquilla—a pretty little stream, [on which was a] Rancho. Thence in the afternoon to Saint Antonio.[III'-6] We halted at the mission of Saint Joseph [San José]; received in a friendly manner by the priest of the mission and others.

We were met out of Saint Antonio about three miles by Governors Cordero and Herrara, in a coach. We repaired to their quarters, where we were received like their children. Cordero informed me that he had discretionary orders as to the mode of my going out of the country; that he therefore wished me to choose my time, mode, etc.; that any sum of money I might want was at my service; that in the meantime Robinson and myself would make his quarters our home; and that he had caused to be vacated and prepared a house immediately opposite for the reception of my men. In the evening his levee was attended by a crowd of officers and priests, among whom were Father M'Guire and Dr. Zerbin. After supper we went to the public square, where might be seen the two governors joined in a dance with people who in the daytime would approach them with reverence and awe.

We were here introduced to the sister of Lieutenant Malgares' wife, who was one of the finest women we saw. She was married to a Captain Ugarte, to whom we had letters of introduction.

June 8th. Remained at San Antonio.

June 9th. A large party dined at Governor Cordero's, who gave as his toast, "The President of the United States—Vive la." I returned the compliment by toasting "His Catholic Majesty." These toasts were followed by "General Wilkinson." One of the company then gave "Those gentlemen; their safe and happy arrival in their own country; their honorable reception, and the continuation of the good understanding which exists between the two countries."

June 10th. A large party at the governor's to dinner. He gave as a toast, "My companion, Herrara."

June 11th. Preparing to march to-morrow. We this evening had a conversation with the two governors, wherein they exhibited an astonishing knowledge of the political character of our Executive, and the local interests of the different parts of the Union.

June 12th. One of the captains from the kingdom of [Nuevo] Leon having died, we were invited to attend the burial, and accompanied the two governors in their coach, where we had an opportunity of viewing the solemnity of the interment, agreeably to the ritual of the Spanish church, attended by the military honors which were conferred on the deceased by his late brethren in arms.

[As I ascertained to-day,] Governor Cordero gave the information of my intended expedition to the commandant-general as early as July [1806], the same month that I took my departure. His information was received via Natchez.

June 13th. This morning there were marched 200 dragoons for the sea-coast, to look out for the English, and this evening Colonel Cordero was to have marched to join them. We marched at seven o'clock, Governor Cordero taking us in his coach about two leagues, accompanied by Father M'Guire, Dr. Zerbin, etc. We took a friendly adieu of Governor Herrara and our other friends at Saint Antonio.

It may not be improper to mention here something of Father M'Guire and Dr. Zerbin, who certainly treated us with all imaginable attention while at Saint Antonio. The former was an Irish priest, who formerly resided on the coast above [New] Orleans [in present Louisiana], and was noted for his hospitable and social qualities. On the cession of Louisiana, he followed the standard of "the king, his master, who never suffers an old servant to be neglected." He received at Cuba an establishment as chaplain to the mint of Mexico, whence the instability of human affairs carried him to Saint Antonio. He was a man of chaste classical taste, observation, and research.

Dr. Zerbin formerly resided at Natchez [in present Mississippi], but in consequence of pecuniary embarrassments emigrated to the Spanish territories. Being a young man of a handsome person and an insinuating address, he had obtained the good-will of Governor Cordero, who had conferred on him an appointment in the king's hospital, and many other advantages by which he might have made a fortune; but he had recently committed some very great indiscretions, by which he had nearly lost the favor of Colonel Cordero, though whilst we were there he was treated with attention.

I will here attempt to portray a faint resemblance of the characters of the two governors whom we found at Saint Antonio; but to whose superexcellent qualities it would require the pen of a master to do justice.

Don Antonio Cordero is about 5 feet 10 inches in height, 50 years of age, with fair complexion and blue eyes; he wore his hair turned back, and in every part of his deportment was legibly written "the soldier." He yet possessed an excellent constitution, and a body which appeared to be neither impaired by the fatigues of the various campaigns he had made, nor disfigured by the numerous wounds received from the enemies of his king. He was one of the select officers who had been chosen by the court of Madrid to be sent to America about 35 years since, to discipline and organize the Spanish provincials, and had been employed in all the various kingdoms and provinces of New Spain. Through the parts which we explored he was universally beloved and respected; and when I pronounce him by far the most popular man in the internal provinces, I risk nothing by the assertion. He spoke the Latin and French languages well, was generous, gallant, brave, and sincerely attached to his king and country. Those numerous qualifications advanced him to the rank of colonel of cavalry, and governor of the provinces of Cogquilla and Texas. His usual residence was Montelovez, which he had embellished a great deal, but since our taking possession of Louisiana he had removed to San Antonio, in order to be nearer the frontier, to be able to apply the remedy to any evil which might arise from the collision of our lines.

Don Simon de Herrara is about 5 feet 11 inches high, has a sparkling black eye, dark complexion and hair. He was born in the Canary islands, served in the infantry in France, Spain, and Flanders, and speaks the French language well, with a little of the English. He is engaging in his conversation with his equals; polite and obliging to his inferiors, and in all his actions one of the most gallant and accomplished men I ever knew. He possesses a great knowledge of mankind from his experience in various countries and societies, and knows how to employ the genius of each of his subordinates to advantage. He had been in the United States during the presidency of General Washington, and had been introduced to that hero, of whom he spoke in terms of exalted veneration. He is now lieutenant-colonel of infantry, and governor of the kingdom of New Leon. His seat of government is Mont Elrey; and probably, if ever a chief is adored by his people, it is Herrara. When his time expired last, he immediately repaired to Mexico, attended by 300 of the most respectable people of his government, who carried with them the sighs, tears, and prayers of thousands that he might be continued in that government. The viceroy thought proper to accord to their wishes pro tempore, and the king has since confirmed his nomination. When I saw him he had been about one year absent, during which time the citizens of rank in Mont Elrey had not suffered a marriage or baptism to take place in any of their families, until their common father could be there, to consent and give joy to the occasion by his presence. What greater proof could be given of their esteem and love?

In drawing a parallel between these two friends, I should say that Cordero was the man of greatest reading, and that Herrara possessed the greatest knowledge of the world. Cordero has lived all his life a bachelor. Herrara married an English lady in early youth, at Cadiz; one who by her suavity of manners makes herself as much beloved and esteemed by the ladies as her noble husband is by the men. By her he has several children, one now an officer in the service of his royal master.

The two friends agree perfectly in one point—their hatred to tyranny of every kind; and in a secret determination never to see that flourishing part of the New World subject to any other European lord except him whom they think their honor and loyalty bound to defend with their lives and fortunes. But should Bonaparte seize on European Spain, I risk nothing in asserting that those two gentlemen would be the first to throw off the yoke, draw their swords, and assert the independence of their country.

Before I close this subject, it may not be improper to state that we owe it to Governor Herrara's prudence that we are not now engaged in a war with Spain. This will be explained by the following anecdote, which he related in the presence of his friend Cordero, and which was confirmed by him. When the difficulties commenced on the Sabine,[III'-7] the commandant-general and the viceroy consulted each other, and mutually determined to maintain inviolate what they deemed the dominions of their master. The viceroy therefore ordered Herrara to join Cordero with 1,300 men, and both the viceroy and General Salcedo ordered Cordero to cause our troops to be attacked, should they pass the Rio Oude [sic]. These orders were positively reiterated to Herrara, the actual commanding officer of the Spanish army on the frontiers, and gave rise to the many messages which he sent to General Wilkinson when he was advancing with our troops. Finding they were not attended to, he called a council of war on the question to attack or not, when it was given as their opinion that they should immediately commence a predatory warfare, but avoid a general engagement; yet, notwithstanding the orders of the viceroy, the commandant-general, Governor Cordero's, and the opinion of his officers, he had the firmness or temerity to enter into the agreement with General Wilkinson which at present exists relative to our boundaries on that frontier. On his return he was received with coolness by Cordero, and they both made their communications to their superiors. "Until an answer was received," said Herrara, "I experienced the most unhappy period of my life, conscious I had served my country faithfully, at the same time that I had violated every principle of military duty." At length the answer arrived, and what was it, but the thanks of the viceroy and the commandant-general for having pointedly disobeyed their orders, with assurances that they would represent his services in exalted terms to the king. What could have produced this change of sentiment is to me unknown, but the letter was published to the army, and confidence again restored between the two chiefs and the troops.

Our company consisted of Lieutenant Jn. Echararria, who commanded the escort; Captain Eugene Marchon of New Orleans, and Father José Angel Cabaso, who was bound to the camp at or near the [river] Trinity; with a suitable proportion of soldiers. We came on 16 miles to a place called the Beson, where we halted until the mules came up. Marched again at four o'clock, and arrived at the river of Guadalupe at eight o'clock. Distance 30 miles.[III'-8]

Sunday, June 14th. When we left Saint Antonio, everything appeared to be in a flourishing and improving state, owing to the examples and encouragement given to industry, politeness, and civilization by the excellent Governor Cordero and his colleague Herrara; also to the large body of troops maintained at that place in consequence of the difference existing between the United States and Spain.

Came on to the Saint Mark [river, Rio San Marco] in the morning; in the afternoon came on 15 miles further, but was late, owing to our having taken the wrong road. Distance 30 miles.[III'-9]

June 15th. Marched 20 miles in the morning to a small pond, which is dry in a dry season, where we halted. Here commenced the oak timber, it having been musqueet [mesquit, Prosopis juliflora] in general from Saint Antonio. Prairie like the Indiana territory. In the afternoon came on six miles further to a creek, where we encamped early. Distance 26 miles.[III'-10]

June 16th. Marched early, and at eight o'clock arrived at Red river [Rio Colorado of Texas[III'-11]]. Here was a small Spanish station and several lodges of Tancards—tall, handsome men, but the most naked savages I ever saw, without exception. They complained much of their situation. In the afternoon passed over hilly, stony land; occasionally we saw pine timber. Killed one deer. Encamped on a small run. Distance 26 miles.

June 17th. Came on by nine o'clock to a large encampment of Tancards,[III'-12] more than 40 lodges. Their poverty was as remarkable as their independence. Immense herds of horses, etc. I gave a Camanche and Tancard each a silk handkerchief, and a recommendation to the commandant at Natchitoches. In the afternoon came on three hours and encamped on a hill, at a creek on the right-hand side of the road. Met a large herd of mules escorted by four soldiers; the lieutenant took from them some money which they had in charge. Distance 30 miles.

June 18th. Rode on until half past ten o'clock, when we arrived at the river Brassos.[III'-13] Here is a stockade guard of one corporal, six men, and a ferry-boat. Swam our horses over; one was drowned and several others were near it, owing to their striking each other with their feet. We then came on about two miles on this side of a bayou called the Little Brassos, which is only a branch of the other, and which makes an impassable swamp at certain seasons between them. Distance 31 miles.

June 19th. Came on through prairies and woods alternately 20 miles to a small creek, Corpus Christi, with well-wooded, rich land. In the afternoon came on ten miles, and passed a creek which at high water is nearly impassable four miles. Overflows swamps, ponds, etc. Encamped about one mile on this side, on high land to the right of the road. Met the mail, Indians, and others. Distance 30 miles.[III'-14]

June 20th. Came on 16 miles in the morning; passed several herds of mustangs or wild horses; good land, ponds and small dry creeks, prairie and woods, alternately. It rained considerably. We halted to dry our baggage long before night. Distance 20 miles.

Sunday, June 21st. Came on to the river Trinity [Rio Trinidad[III'-15]] by eight o'clock. Here were stationed two captains, two lieutenants, and three ensigns, with nearly 100 men, all sick, one scarcely able to assist another. Met a number of runaway negroes, some French, and Irishmen. Received information of Lieutenant Wilkinson's safe arrival. Crossed with all our horses and baggage, with much difficulty. Distance 20 miles.

June 22d. Marched the mules and horses in the forenoon, but did not depart ourselves until three o'clock. Father José Angel Cabaso separated from us at this place for the post of [300 Spanish troops cantoned further down Trinity river], where he was destined. Passed thick woods, and a few small prairies with high rich grass. Sent a dispatch to Nacogdoches. Distance 22 miles.[III'-16]

June 23d. Came on 20 miles in the forenoon to a small creek of standing water; good land and well timbered. Met a sergeant from Nacogdoches. In the afternoon made 20 miles and crossed the river Natches [or Neches,[III'-17]] running N. W. and S. E., 20 yards wide, belly-deep to horses at this time, but sometimes impassable. Two miles on this side encamped on a hill in a little prairie. The mules and loads arrived at twelve o'clock. The sandy soil and pine timber began again this afternoon, but there was good land near the river. Distance 40 miles.

June 24th. The horses came up this morning; lost six over night. We marched early and in 15 miles came to the river Angeline [Rio Angelina], about the width of the Natchez, running N. and S.; good land on its borders. Two miles further was a settlement of Barr and Davenport's, where were three of our lost horses; one mile further found two more of our horses, where we halted for dinner. Marched at four o'clock, and at half past eight arrived at Nacogdoches, where we were politely received by the adjutant and inspector [Don Francisco Viana], Captain Herrara, Mr. Davenport, etc. This part of the country is well watered, but sandy; hilly soil; pine, scrub oak, etc. Distance 37 miles.

June 25th. Spent in reading a gazette from the United States, etc. A large party at the adjutant and inspector's to dinner: 1st toast, "The President of the United States"; 2d, "The King of Spain"; 3d, "Governors Herrara and Cordero."

June 26th. Made preparations to march the next day. Saw an old acquaintance; also, Lorrimier's son-in-law, from the district of Cape Jerardeau [Girardeau]. Dined with the commandant, and spent the evening at Davenport's.

June 27th. Marched after dinner and came only 12 miles. Was escorted by Lieutenant Guodiana and a military party. Mr. Davenport's brother-in-law, who was taking in some money, also accompanied us.

Don Francis Viana, adjutant and inspector of the Internal provinces, who commanded at Nacogdoches, is an old and veteran officer, and was one of those who came to America at the same time with Colonel Cordero. Possessing a mind of frankness, he unfortunately spoke his opinions too freely in some instances, which, finding their way to court, prevented his promotion. But he is highly respected by his superiors, and looked up to as a model of military conduct by his inferiors. He unfortunately does not possess flexibility sufficient to be useful [to us] in the present state of the Spanish kingdoms. He is the officer who caused Major Sparks and Mr. Freeman to return from their expedition on the Red river [see p. 412].

Sunday, June 28th. Marched early and at nine o'clock crossed the little river called [Toyac[III'-18]], whence we pushed on in order to arrive at the house of a Frenchman, [about nine] miles distant from the Sabine. We stopped at a house on the road, where the lieutenant informed me an American by the name of Johnson lived; but was surprised to find he had crossed the line with his family, and a French family in his place. When we began conversing with them they were much alarmed, thinking we had come to examine them, and expressed great attachment to the Spanish government. They were somewhat astonished to find I was an American officer; and on my companions stepping out, expressed themselves in strong terms of hatred to the Spanish nation. I excused them for their weakness, and gave them a caution. Fine land, well watered and timbered; hickory, oak, sugar-tree, etc. Distance 40 miles.

June 29th. Our baggage and horses came up about ten o'clock, when we dispatched them on. Marched ourselves at two o'clock, and arrived at the river Sabine by five. Here we saw the cantonment of the Spanish troops, when they were commanded by Colonel Herrara, in the late affair between the two governments. Crossed the Sabine river and came about one league on this side to a little prairie, where we encamped. Distance 15 miles.[III'-19]

Parted with Lieutenant Guodiana and our Spanish escort. Here I think proper to bear testimony to the politeness, civility, and attention of all the officers who at different periods and in different provinces commanded my escort, but in a particular manner to Malgares and Barelo, who appeared studious to please and accommodate, all that lay in their power; also, the obliging, mild dispositions evinced in all instances by their rank and file.

On this side of the Sabine I went up to a house, where I found 10 or 15 Americans hovering near the line, in order to embrace an opportunity of carrying on some illicit commerce with the Spaniards, who on their side were equally eager. Here we found Tharp and Sea, who had been old sergeants in General Wayne's army.

June 30th. Marched early and came 15 miles to a house at a small creek, where lived a Dutch family named Faulk, and where we left a small roan horse which had given out. Marched 12 miles further to a large bayou, where had been an encampment of our troops, which I recognized by its form, and took pleasure in imagining the position of the general's marquee and the tents of my different friends and acquaintances. Distance 28 [27] miles.[III'-20]

July 1st. Finding that a horse of Dr. Robinson's, which had come all the way from Chihuahua, could not proceed, was obliged to leave him here. Yesterday and to-day passed many Choctaws, whose clothing, furniture, etc., evidently marked the superiority of situation of those who bordered on our frontiers, to that of the naked, half-starved wretches whom we found hanging round the Spanish settlements. Passed a string of huts, supposed to have been built by our troops, and at a small run a fortified camp but half a mile from the hill where anciently stood the village Adyes [Adayes on the map[III'-21]]. We proceeded to a spring where we halted for our loads. Finding the horses much fatigued, and not able to proceed, we left them and baggage and proceeded. We arrived at Natchitoches[III'-22] about 4 p. m.

Language cannot express the gayety of my heart when I once more beheld the standard of my country waved aloft. "All hail!" cried I, "the ever sacred name of country, in which is embraced that of kindred, friends, and every other tie which is dear to the soul of man!" Was affectionately received by Colonel Freeman, Captains Strong and Woolstoncraft, Lieutenant Smith, and all the [other] officers of the post.[III'-23]

Meteorological Observations made by Captain Pike during a Tour through the Internal Provinces of New Spain, in the year 1807.[III'-24]

CHAPTER IV.

OBSERVATIONS ON NEW SPAIN.[IV'-1]

The kingdom of New Spain[IV'-2] lies between 16° and 44° N. lat., and 96° and 118° W. long. It is divided into two separate and independent governments, and these again into various subdivisions.

I. The viceroyalty includes:

1. The administration of Guadalaxara,[IV'-3] which lies between 18° 30´ and 24° 30´ N. lat., and 104° and 109° W. long., and is bounded south and west by the South Sea, north by the provinces of Biscay [Nueva Viscaya] and Sinaloa; N. E. by the administration of Zacatecas; E. by the administration of Guanaxuato, and S. E. by that of Valladolid. It is 350 miles in length from northwest to southeast, and 250 in width east and west. Its population may be estimated at 100,000. It is one of the most luxuriant and rich administrations in the viceroyalty; and is watered from east to west by the great river de Santego [Rio Grande de Santiago], which receives most of its waters from Lac [Lago] de Chapala. Guadalaxara, the capital, was built by one of the Gusman family in 1551, and in 1570 the bishopric was removed from Compostela to that place. It is the seat of the audience of Guadalaxara, which includes Guadalaxara and the administration of Zacatecas. The population of this city may be estimated at 75,000; it stands in N. lat. 20° 50´, W. long. 105°.

2. The administration of Valladolid[IV'-4] lies between 22° 10´ and 18° 12´ N. lat., and 102° and 105° W. long., and is bounded south by the South sea [Pacific ocean] and part of Mexico, east and northeast by the latter, and north by that of Guanaxuato. Its greatest length from northeast to southwest is 230 miles, and its greatest width, east and west, 190 miles. Its population may be estimated at 360,000. Its capital of the same name is situated in about 20° N. lat., 103° 25´´ W. long. Population unknown.

3. The administration of Mexico[IV'-5] lies between 21° 30´ and 16° 30´ N. lat., and 99° and 105° W. long., and is bounded south by the South Sea, east by the governments of La Puebla and La Vera Cruz, north by that of St. Louis, and west by Valladolid and Guanaxuato. Its greatest length, north and south, may be 360 miles, and its greatest width, which is on the Western Ocean, is 200 miles. Its population may be estimated at 1,500,000 souls. The capital of this administration, and of the whole kingdom, is Mexico; a particular description of which is deemed unnecessary. From every information I could obtain from persons who had resided in it for years, it does not contain more than 200,000 inhabitants. Its being the residence of the viceroy, whose court is more splendid than that at Madrid; its central position as to the ports of Acapulco and Vera Cruz; together with the rich and luxuriant vale which surrounds it, will, whenever the Spanish Americans burst the present bonds of slavery in which they are bound, give to Mexico all those advantages which great wealth, a large population, and a commanding situation concentrate, and assuredly make it one of the greatest cities in the world. In point of population, it is now in the second rank, and in beauty, riches, magnificence, and splendor, in the first.

4. The administration of Oxaca [Oaxaca or Oajaca[IV'-6]] lies between 18° and 16° N. lat., and 98° and 112° W. long., and is bounded south by the South Sea, west by the government of La Puebla, north by Mexico and Vera Cruz, and east by the province of Gualamalia [Guatemala]. Its greatest length, east and west, is 230 miles, and its width, north and south, 175 miles. Its population may be estimated at 520,000 souls. Its capital is Oxaca, in 17° 30´ N. lat., 99° 25´ W. long.

5. The administration of Vera Cruz[IV'-7] lies between 17° and 22° N. lat., and 98° and 101° W. long., and is bounded north and east by the gulf of Mexico, south by Oxaca, west by Puebla and Mexico. Its greatest length, N. W. and S. E., is 430 miles, and its width, E. and W., not more than 60 miles. Its population may be estimated at 220,000. Its capital is Vera Cruz, which is the sole port of entry for all the kingdom on the Atlantic ocean, as that of Acapulco is on the Western. Its population may be estimated at 30,000 souls, and is in 19° 10´ N. lat. and 98° 30´ W. long. This city was taken and sacked by the English on the 17th of May, 1683, since which the works for its defense [present Castle of San Juan de Ulúa] have been made so very strong as almost to bid defiance to an attack from the sea.

6. The administration de la Puebla[IV'-8] lies between 20° and 16° N. lat., and 100° and 102° W. long., and is bounded south by the South sea, east by Oxaca and Vera Cruz, north and west by Mexico; it is near 300 miles in its greatest length from north to south, and 120 in its greatest width from east to west. Its population may be estimated at 800,000 souls. Its capital is the city of La Puebla, estimated at 80,000 souls, which is in 19° 12´ N. lat., and 100° 50´ W. long.

7. The administration of Guanaxuato [or Guanajuato[IV'-9]] lies between 21° 30´ and 23° 30´ N. lat., and 103° and 105° W. long., and is bounded south by Valladolid, east by Mexico, south by St. Louis [and] Zacataca, and west by Guadalaxara. Its greatest extent, from north to south, is 75 miles, and from east to west, 85. Its population may be estimated at 500,000 souls. Its capital city is Guanaxuato, in lat. 21° N., long. 103° W.

8. The administration of Zacataca [Zacatecas[IV'-10]] lies between 21° 20´ and 24° 52´ N. lat., and 103° and 105° 30´ W. long., and is bounded north by the internal province of Biscay, east by St. Louis, west by Guadalaxara, and south by Guanaxuato. Its greatest length is 210 miles, north and south, and its greatest width is 145 miles, from east to west. Its population may be estimated at 250,250 souls. The capital, Zacataca, stands in 23° N. lat. and 104° W. long.

9. The administration of St. Louis [San Luis Potosí[IV'-11]] lies between 21° 20´ and 28° 50´ N. lat., and 99° and 102° W. long., includes Texas and St. Ander [Nuevo Santander] in this dimension, and is bounded north by New Leon, east by the province of St. Ander, south by Guanaxuato and Mexico, and west by Zacataca. Its greatest length from north to south is 200, and its width from east to west is 170 miles. Its population may be estimated at 311,500 souls. Its capital is St. Louis de Potosi, the population of which is 60,000; it stands in 22° N. lat., 103° W. long., and was founded in 1568 [1576].

II. The province of Nuevo San Ander [Santander[IV'-12]] is bounded north by the province of Texas, west by Nuevo Leon and Cogquillo [Coahuila], south by St. Louis, and east by the Atlantic Ocean; from north to south it is about 500 miles in length, but from east to west not more than 150. Its population may be estimated at 38,000 souls. The capital, New San Ander [Nuevo Santander], is on the river of that name [also known as the Rio Jimenez, and Rio de las Palmas], about 40 miles from the sea, in 23° 45´ N. lat. and 101° W. long.

III. The kingdom of New Leon [Nuevo Leon[IV'-13]] is bounded east by New San Ander, north by Cogquilla, west by Biscay, and south by St. Louis and Zacataca; its greatest length north and south is 250 miles; width, east and west, 100 miles. Its population may be estimated at 30,000 souls. Its capital, Mont El Rey [Monterey], is situated on the headwaters of Tiger river, which discharges into the gulf of Mexico. The city of Mont El Rey contains about 11,000 souls, and is the seat of the bishop, Don Dio Premiro, who visited the port of Natchitoches when it was commanded by Captain Turner, of the 2d U. S. regiment of infantry. His episcopal jurisdiction extends over Nuevo San Ander, New Leon, Cogquilla, and Texas, and his salary is equal to $100,000 per annum. Mont El Rey is situated in 26° N. lat. and 102° W. long. There are many rich mines near the city of Mont El Rey, whence, I am informed, there are taken to be coined 100 mule-loads of bullion in silver and gold monthly, which may be presumed to be not more than the three-fifths of what is taken from the mines, as there are many persons who prefer never getting their metal coined, as then it is not so easily ascertained what they are worth, which is an all-important secret in a despotic government.

The foregoing nine administrations or intendencias, the province of Nuevo San Ander, and the kingdom of [Nuevo] Leon, are included in the two audiences of Guadalaxara and Mexico, and form, as I believe, the whole political government of the viceroy of Mexico; but I am not positive whether his jurisdiction does not include the audience of Guatimalia [Guatemala], which lies to the south, and includes the province of that name, that of Chiapa [Chiapas], Yucatan, Veraqua [Veragua], Costa Rica, and Honduras. An audience is the high court of appeals in which the viceroy presides and has two votes; it is intended as a check on his power and authority.

The administrations are governed by intendants, who are officers of high rank, and always Europeans.

The longitude given is from the meridian of Paris.

In the general view of New Spain,[IV'-14] I shall take some notice of the manners, customs, political force, etc., of the viceroyalty; but, as I do not pretend to be correctly informed as to that quarter of the kingdom, and there have been so many persons who have given statements on those heads, I shall confine my observations principally to the internal provinces through which I passed, and on which I made my observations.

INTERNAL PROVINCES.

1. New Mexico. [Geography. The province of New Mexico] lies between lat. 30° 30´ and 44° N., and long. 104° and 108° W., and is the most northern province of the kingdom of New Spain. It extends northwest into an undefined boundary, is bounded north and east by Louisiana, south by Biscay and Cogquilla, and west by Senora and California.[IV'-15] Its length is unknown; its breadth may be 600 miles; but the inhabited part is not more than 400 miles in length and 50 in breadth, lying along the river del Norte, from lat. 37° to 31° 30´ N.; but in this space there is a desert of more than 250 miles.

Air and Climate. No persons accustomed to reside in the temperate climate of lat. 36° and 37° N. in the United States can form any idea of the piercing cold which is experienced on that parallel in New Mexico; but the air is serene and unaccompanied by damps or fogs, as it rains but once a year, and some years not at all. It is a mountainous country. The grand dividing ridges which separate the waters of the rio del Norte from those of California border it on the line of its western limits, and are covered, in some places, with eternal snows, which give a keenness to the air that could not be calculated upon or expected in a temperate zone.

Timber and Plains. The cotton tree [Populus] is the only tree of this province, except some scrubby pines and cedars at the foot of the mountains [and many other species there and elsewhere]. The former borders the banks of the rio del Norte and its tributary streams. All the rest of the country presents to the eye a barren wild of poor land, scarcely to be improved by culture, and appears to be only capable of producing sufficient subsistence for those animals which live on succulent plants and herbage.

Mines, Minerals, and Fossils. There are no mines known in the province, except one of copper situated in a mountain on the west side of the rio del Norte, in lat. 34° N. [see note²⁶, p. 637]. It is worked, and produces 20,000 mule-loads of copper annually. It also furnishes that article for the manufactories of nearly all the internal provinces. It contains gold, but not quite sufficient to pay for its extraction; consequently it has not been pursued.

There is, near Santa Fe, in some of the mountains, a stratum of talc, which is so large and flexible as to render it capable of being subdivided into thin flakes, of which the greater proportion of the houses in Santa Fe, and in all the villages to the north, have their window-lights made.

Rivers. The river del Norte takes its source in the mountains which give birth to the headwaters of California, the Plata [South Platte], Pierre Jaune ["Yellowstone," i. e., North Platte] of the Missouri, and Arkansaw of the Mississippi, in lat. 40° N. and long. 110° W.[IV'-16] Its distance from its source to the gulf of Mexico may be, by its meanders, estimated at 2,000 miles, passing through the provinces of New Mexico, part of Biscay, Cogquilla, and New San Ander, where it falls into the gulf at lat. 26° N. It cannot, in any part of its course, be termed a navigable stream, owing to the sand-bars. In the flat country and mountains in the upper part, with which its course is interrupted, small boats might ascend as high as the Presidio de Rio Grande in Cogquilla, and it might be navigable for canoes in various parts of its course. In the mountains above Santa Fe it afforded amply sufficient water for canoe navigation, and even more than appeared to be flowing in its bed in the plains. This must be attributed to numerous canals and the dry sandy soil through which the river courses, where much of the water which flows from the mountains must be absorbed and lost. In the province of New Mexico it is called the Rio del Norte; below it is termed the Rio Grande; but in no instance did I hear it called the Rio Bravo, as many of our ancient maps designate it.

There are also, in the limits of this province, to the west, the rivers San Rafael, San Xavier, de los Dolores, also de los Anamas or Nabajoa, all of which join and form the great Rio Colorado of California.[IV'-17] The two first take their sources in the same mountains as the Rio del Norte, but on the west side.

The river Colorado, by its meanders, may be about 1,000 miles in length, from its sources to its discharge into the head of the gulf of California, in the 33d degree of N. lat. [about 32°]. It has been represented to me, by men of information and research, to be navigable for square-rigged vessels at least 300 miles from the gulf. By this river and the Arkansaw there could be the best communication established between the Pacific and the Atlantic oceans. There are represented to be various numerous and warlike nations of Indians on its banks. Through the whole of its course its banks are entirely destitute of timber, and indeed I was informed that for 300 miles there was not a tree ten inches in diameter.

The river S. Buenaventura empties into the Pacific ocean to the north of California in 39° 30´ N. latitude, and takes its source in the Sierre Madre to the north of the Colorado and del Norte.[IV'-18]

The Rio Gila[IV'-19] heads opposite the copper-mines, and discharges into the gulf of California, just below the Colorado, in the 33d degree of N. latitude.

The Rio Puerto [Pecos[IV'-20]] is a branch of the Rio del Norte; it comes from the north and joins that river about 100 miles below the Presidio del Norte.

None of the foregoing streams present any evidence of civilization on their shores excepting the Rio del Norte.

Lakes. I heard of no lakes in the province, except that of Tampanagos, the existence of which I consider very doubtful. It is said to commence, according to Father Escalante, in the 40th deg. N. lat., and to have been explored to the 42d deg. in a N. W. direction, where it enlarged its dimensions, and the discoverer thought proper to return.[IV'-21]

Animals. North Mexico produces deer, elk, buffalo, cabrie, the gresley [grizzly and] black bear, and wild horses.

Population. Its population is not far short of 30,000 souls, one-twentieth of which may be Spaniards from Europe, or Chapetones [Gachupines[IV'-22]], four-twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths Metifs, and the other half civilized Indians.

The capital is Santa Fe, situated on a small stream which empties into the east side of the Rio del Norte, at the foot of the mountains which divide the waters of that river from the Arkansaw and the Red river of the Mississippi, in 36° N. lat. and 100° W. long. It is an oblong square, extending about one mile from east to west on the banks of the creek. In the centre is the public square, one side of which forms the flank of the soldiers' square, which is closed and in some degree defended by the round towers in the angles which flank the four curtains; another side of the square is formed by the palace of the governor, his guard-houses, etc.; the third side is occupied by the priests and their suite, and the fourth by the Chapetones who reside in the city. The houses are generally only one story high, with flat roofs, and have a very mean appearance on the outside; but some of them are richly furnished, especially with plate.