Tongs:

Stock: ⁷⁄₈ × 12 in. round, for handle. Two pieces ¹⁄₂ × 16 in. round rod.

Directions: Make handle as for poker and shovel. Look at the detail drawing and you will see by the dotted lines that 2 ins. from the lower end of the handle the stock is bent out at right angles to the axis of the handle. Take one of the ¹⁄₂ × 16 in. round rods, place it in the swage, using the top swage on this. Shape the piece between the two swages. Form it to an oval shape by striking with a sledge hammer on the top swage. This makes one half of the rounded part of the tong. If this is done without turning the piece while working it, the cross section will be oval. Bend it rounding, as shown by the drawing. It is now ready to weld to the rod, but before doing this it is best to finish the hinge. Draw out the stock between the shoulder and the bend, 2 × ⁵⁄₈ ins. in diameter. Leave the stock heavy near the handle on account of the weight of the tongs. To form the hinge: Place a round ³⁄₄-in. punch, flattened on the end, on the corner and drive down half way. This makes a circular depression, just large enough to accommodate the ¹⁄₂-in. hinge. Two of these wings of the tongs are to be made to complete the tongs. The second piece is far simpler than the first to make, and it is really the only part of the tong that moves. Draw out the stock and make the same size oval as you made with the other piece under the swages. Bend it the same shape. Repeat the work with the punch on the end, thus making the other half of the tong hinge. File these halves to fit perfectly. When that is satisfactory, drill a hole through the middle. Put a round-head rivet through, and see whether the hinge now works perfectly free. Remove rivets. The parts are now ready to be welded to the rods. Upset the ends of the small rods, scarf both for a regular lap weld (see Lap Weld), and finish by welding. The end of the tongs are flattened down. Flatten out the material and at the same time round it up. If the material is not thick enough to give enough for this rounding part, upset the end a little, or double the end over and weld. (See Welding.)

Tongs are now ready for riveting together. Place the hinge in position. Push the round-head rivet through the hole made. Let it push through far enough to allow material for a rivet head of exactly the size of the round head. The head may be rounded up if not too large, while it is cold. Since only a ¹⁄₄-in. rivet is called for here, this work can be done without any heating.

Tongs are made, as you know, for the purpose of picking up pieces of wood or coal to place them in a stove or open fire. One must keep their use in mind when making the ends of the tongs fitted to do this work, so the ends may be flat, round, claw shaped, concaved, etc. The finish will be the same as the finish on the andiron, without any attempt at ornament. The surface should show the hammer marks, but be quite free from lumps.

Stand: Sometimes hooks are fastened in the fireplace for holding the fire tools. A tool stand, however, is most convenient and may be made easily. The drawing shows a plain design, with base, feet, upright, arms for receiving the tools, and handle.

Stock: Base, No. 20 sheet iron, 18 × 14 ins., oblong piece. Feet: 3 pieces, 1 in. square, 2 ins. long. Upright, ³⁄₄ in. round, 26 ins. long. Arms, 2 pieces, 1 × ¹⁄₄ × 15 ins. Handle, 1 × ¹⁄₂ × 20 ins.

Directions: The drawing shows the stand as it should look when finished. Base is made first. Cut out a pattern of an ellipse, long diameter 18 ins., short diameter 14 ins. Place this pattern on the oblong piece and cut it out with shears or a cold chisel. On the inside mark off 1¹⁄₄ ins. parallel to the outside edge. On that line turn the metal up as you turned up the rim of the copper bowl. This can be done while the metal is either hot or cold. Perhaps it is a little easier to work up most of the bend while the metal is hot and finish up while it is cold. Do not cool the metal off in water, though. This tends to harden it a little. Let it cool off gradually, and when necessary anneal or soften it. Feet: The 1-in. square iron is fullered down 1 in. from the end. The ball is rounded out of this end piece same as was done in making the balls for the door knocker. This leaves part of the metal with which to make a pin for riveting. Cut off this rivet pin the length required. Rivet holes are made in the base large enough to receive the rivet pins on the iron feet. Divide the base into three equal parts. Drill rivet holes the right size, put the iron balls in place, and rivet.

Arms: The two pieces of ¹⁄₄ × 1 × 15 ins. are bent and scarfed. The two scarfed edges are welded together. Then the end is welded to one end of the upright post.

Handle: The handle is made separate and is then welded on to the arms. Take the ¹⁄₂ × 20 in. piece and bend it at right angles 5 ins. from each end. Heat it in the middle and bend so the two ends come together. This forms a loop. Make this loop the same shape as is shown by the handle. Weld the two 5-in. ends together, shape, and then weld this to the crotch of the arms. This forms the handle. The arms are now bent wide enough to receive the fire tools.

The upright: Cut it off 30 ins. from the top of the arms. Upset one end large enough to make a foot 4 ins. long and about 2 ins. wide. This is flattened down and shaped as shown, for three ¹⁄₄-in. rivets. Push the rivets in and rivet the upright to the base. If the base should not be strong enough to hold the upright firm it can be strengthened by placing a brace from the long ends and fastening it to the centre of the upright. This adds to the decoration as well as the strength. Use a ¹⁄₂ × ¹⁄₈ in. flat bar of iron or steel. Place it in a vise and twist it about two thirds of its length. Bend the ends to fit the curved sides of the base and also to fit the post. A small ¹⁄₈-in. rivet on each side and one through the post will hold it sufficiently. The stand is finished to correspond with the andiron and fire tools. In this design the hammer marks seem more suitable than any special decoration. A little machine oil spread over the surface, the whole thing heated in the forge fire until the oil flashes off, gives a natural iron finish, which is most pleasing.

XXIX

CANDLESTICKS, HINGES, IRON BRACKETS

Foot: The drawing shows a conventional flower shaped foot. Spread the ³⁄₄ in. wide enough to shape a foot as shown in the sketch. Shape it by cutting it out with a chisel and then filing. The embossing is done in the same way, as has been explained. (See Embossing.)

Socket: The socket is tulip or cup shaped. Flatten out the opposite end of the 4-in. bar and shape up as shown in sketch. Make the other two legs to match this one. Weld the three pieces together at A in the following way: Put the three parts together and bind in place with a piece of binding wire. Place it in the fire and heat it to a welding heat. Weld the three pieces close to the socket and for about 1 in. below. Shape a round neck (see sketch) and at the same time reduce it to ³⁄₈ in. in diameter. The small iron collar is put on and welded about 1 in. below the socket. This addition is for ornamental purposes entirely.

Shape socket for the candle: Heat the top at a low heat and with a pair of round-nosed pincers shape up as shown.

The legs are now twisted. This can be done the last thing and while the metal is cold.

Wrought iron candlestick: Take a piece of soft steel or wrought iron ¹⁄₄ × 4 × 4 ins. Heat the bar. Emboss the centre by driving it in a hole in a swage block. The centre should be about 1¹⁄₂ ins. above the surface of the feet. Cut out the four pieces as shown in the sketch. File up and finish the base.

Candle socket: This socket is made in a conventional design. Take a piece of No. 20 soft sheet steel or iron and cut a disc 2¹⁄₂ ins. in diameter. Divide this piece equally into six parts and cut out as shown on the drawing. Bend these leaves up to form a socket. Now cut a piece of sheet metal 2¹⁄₂ ins. square, and cut out as shown for the little ornament fastened on the top. Bend the four wings down as shown here. Drill a small hole through the centre of each to fit to the piece on the end of the post. Place these pieces in position and rivet in place. This work is to be done cold. A candlestick of this design is easily made and very attractive when finished.

DECORATIVE IRON WORK

Next to the scroll, the twist is perhaps the most characteristic detail of decorative treatment in iron. Twists relieve the plain effect of the straight lines made by the hard edges of the metal, by introducing short curves into the design. The twists are easily made and lend themselves largely for decoration on such things as fire escapes, brackets, grills, gates, fences, and smaller articles, such as umbrella stands, door knockers, fire tools, etc.

The twisting is done best while the iron is cold. If done while the iron is hot great care must be taken to check up when the lines begin to run too close together. Take a bar of square iron, fasten one end in the vise, and with a monkey wrench on the other end give the metal a twist. Only square bars show a change in the shape after twisting. Round stock when placed in the vise and twisted shows no change in shape. However, two pieces of round stock twisted give a very pleasing effect. A braided strand is made (1) by welding the ends of two pieces of round iron together side by side and twisting them, (2) welding ends of two more pieces of the same size and length together and twisting them, (3) by welding these two twisted bars together on both ends and twisting them in the opposite direction. This gives a braided effect which is most decorative. However, the square stock gives the most satisfactory result in all of this twisted work.

Handles can be made by reducing square stock, leaving the centre larger and drawing the ends out to a taper and twisting this tapered part. Begin the twist in the middle and let it rise gradually toward each end. Great care must be taken with this work, as the smallest sizes are also the weakest and naturally bend first. To do this work successfully the metal must be heated and driven a little each time until the whole taper is twisted. Spirals: Spirals are made by drawing a long taper on the end of a round or square bar of small iron. Turn the end of the bar up ¹⁄₂ in. at right angles. Grasp the turned up end in the vise; coil the end up as you would a coil of rope. Slip one end under the other when they come together. When the first coil reaches the centre of the piece repeat on the other end until the two coils meet in the middle. Heat it all evenly. Grasp both ends in the tongs and pull the spiral out. Stop when the openings equal the size of the iron of which the coil is made.

Ornamental bulbs: Bulbs are used in the same way as spirals and twists, for decorative purposes, on andirons, grills, fences, etc.

The form shown here in the sketch is a very simple one. The principle, however, is the same as that applied to the forging of more complex bulbs. Select a rod of iron for a core. Reduce the thickness to about ¹⁄₂ in. for about 6 ins. long, leaving the required thickness at the ends; ¹⁄₂ in. from the shoulder nick the bar around, cutting it almost through. Leave about ¹⁄₁₆ in. to hold it to the body of the piece. Cut the core off 1 in. from the 3-in. cut. The picture shows the method of making the core in order to work out the problem. Select a number of pieces of ³⁄₁₆-in. round soft steel the length of the reduced piece and place these around the core, each one fitting close to the next one. If the space is too small or too large when the last piece is put in make the core larger or smaller. These rods should just touch when they lie around the core. Now with a pair of tongs bind all the rods tightly around the core and with the same tongs put one end in the fire and heat red hot. Cover with borax. Take on a welding heat and weld it in a swage, confining the length of the welding to as short a space as possible.

The core prevents the rods from sinking while welding and it also keeps them in place. Reverse the piece. Put the other end in the fire and weld as before. Weld the neck as short as possible. Heat the body of the piece uniformly. Grasp one end of the bar in the vise and with a pair of tongs twist the other end toward the right slowly. While doing so tap lightly on the end with a hammer. This tends to loosen up the rods and help the twisting. Be careful not to twist so much that the rods will break away from the welds. Heat all again. Place it again in the vise and twist in the opposite direction, at the same time driving on the ends. This forces the centre out and gives it a bulb shape. The core should bend up where the cutting is done. Now the core should be driven out. A punch driven in against the core should break it easily where the cut marks are made. These short ends are forced out through the openings between the rods, and any uneven buckles or bends in the rods should be bent or straightened as the case requires. The bulb can be trued up while cold. A punch driven through from the opposite side will help straighten any of the rods bent from the outside in.

The rods can be plied apart with a pair of pliers or a pair of tongs. The surplus metal on the top end is now cut off and trued up.

SPIRAL CANDLESTICK

Stock: Base, 5-in. disc of sheet steel or iron. Legs, ¹⁄₈ × 1 × 5 ins. (makes the 3). Spiral, ³⁄₁₆-in. round wire, 40 ins.

Directions (base or pan): Divide the disc into sixteen equal parts. Flute these parts by cutting out a little hollow in a hard wood block and driving the flutes in by the use of a round cross peen hammer. Fluting reduces the diameter of the disc and forms it into a pan shape.

Legs: The three legs are in one piece. The ¹⁄₈ × 1 × 5 in. piece is split down half way; 1 in. from where the split ends the piece is fullered down. (See sketch.) Draw out this end ³⁄₈ in. wide. Draw out the split ends to this width, and all pieces to ¹⁄₈ in. thickness. This forms a tripod, the three legs at an equal distance apart. The ends of the feet are made very thin by flattening down. Turn these up as shown by the sketch and shape the three feet.

Spiral stem: This candle stem is ³⁄₄ in. in diameter. If you wind up a piece of ³⁄₁₆-in. wire on a ³⁄₄-in. iron rod while the metal is cold you will have a spiral stem like the one shown here. To do this make a mandrel out of a ³⁄₄-in. bar not less than 20 ins. in length. Drill a ¹⁄₄-in. hole in the end. Into this hole drive a ¹⁄₄-in. iron plug. Place this mandrel in the vise. Bend a small loop on the end of this wire to fit the ¹⁄₄-in. pin. Bend the wire and begin to wind around the bar. Make as many turns as are shown in the drawing. Take the wire off. The small loop end will stick out below the spiral and prevent it standing on a base level. This end must be driven back. To do this place it upon the other end of the rod, strike it with the hammer, and flatten it out so that the base will stand flat. Insert a sharp-pointed chisel between the coils; open them out so that the distance between them will be ¹⁄₄ in. Do this while the metal is cold. The handle may be made any design. It can be bent over, extended at right angles to the top, etc. Rivet the legs to the base with a ¹⁄₄-in. bolt. With a nut on the end rivet tightly to prevent the nut loosening up.

Socket to fit the spiral stem, for raising and lowering the candle: Stock: One piece of ¹⁄₈ × 1 × 3 in. One piece of 1 × 2¹⁄₂ in. flat iron or soft steel, No. 20.

Directions: The No. 20 piece is bent around a ³⁄₄-in. mandrel to give it a cylindrical shape. The two edges just come together. The handle of this socket is made by fullering down ¹⁄₈ × 1 × 3 ins., 1 in. back from the end, and drawing this out ³⁄₁₆ in. round, 2 ins. long. The end is turned over as shown in the sketch; the other end is filed round to fit the inside of the socket cylinder. The two pieces are now brazed together. File the parts that come into contact with each other perfectly clean, and cover with borax. Heat it red hot and touch the parts to be brazed with the end of a piece of brass wire. At a certain temperature the brass wire will melt and fill up the spaces between the bottom and the cylinder. (See Brazing.) This makes a tight joint: it is like soldering wrought iron together. This method of joining is used where welding would be impossible, as it would be in this case. File the base off smooth. The candle can now be slipped between the coils of wire. It should travel in its socket up and down the spiral. (See drawing.)

IRON AND STEEL HINGES

Ornamental hinges are used on doors, wall cabinets, chests, gates, etc., or wherever suitable. There are three methods of making hinges: (1) Solid eye, (2) welded, (3) turned or bent eye. (See article on Plain Hinges.)

Solid eye: The first drawing shows the solid eye split ornamental hinge.

Stock: One piece of soft steel or wrought iron, ⁷⁄₈ × ⁷⁄₈ × 6 ins. long. Take a bar of iron 18 ins. long with the above dimensions as to width and thickness; 5 ins. from the end of the bar fuller down to ³⁄₈ in. thick. These 5 ins. are flattened down to ¹⁄₄ in. thick and 2 ins. wide, any length. Split the flattened part to within 2¹⁄₂ ins. of the shoulder. The two ends are now thrown out, tapered, and bent into shape. Cut the piece from the bar 1 in. back of the fullered part. Round the piece up, thus forming the eye. The body of the piece between the split and the eye is now widened out to 2¹⁄₂ ins. To do this use the peen of the hammer on the under side of the metal, thus thinning out the metal in the centre in order to increase the width. Shape it up and curve it about ¹⁄₄ in. This, in turn, gives a nice rounded finished surface similar to the drawer pull. The chased design on the hinge is made in the same manner and with the same tools as are used in work in chasing. (See chapter on Chasing.)

The butt for the hinge is made of 1 × ¹⁄₂ in. flat wrought iron. Fuller down the end of the piece, round it up to fit the diameter of the eye of the hinge. A hole is punched in the middle of the piece. A 2¹⁄₂ × ¹⁄₂ in. piece of iron is drawn and is pushed into the hole, riveted down on the short end, and welded. The other end is drawn out to a square tapered point. Nick the four edges at intervals with a sharp chisel, thus throwing up little projections to prevent it from slipping out of the wood when driven in to hold the hinge. This kind of hinge is used mostly for doors. The upper part of the pin that sticks through the eye of the hinge is ornamented by a fuller mark and a round top.

IRON BRACKET

This bracket is made of three pieces: back piece, hanger, and support:

Stock: Back plate, ³⁄₈ × 1 in. of soft steel or Norway iron. Hanger and support, ¹⁄₄ in. square.

Back plate: The drawing shows the back plate as a conventional leaf design and is made as follows: Take the ³⁄₈ × 1 in. of soft steel and shape it according to the drawing. With the peen of the hammer widen out the top enough to cut out the design shown here. When cut out as shown, boss up the centre of the leaves by using the peen hammer on a round hole. This bossing is a matter of taste. The lower part is now flattened out, trimmed, and shaped as shown. The thickness is of no importance. On the end of the top bar forge a pin about ³⁄₁₆ in. in diameter to fasten into the back by riveting.

Hook: The hook is made in the same way as you made the gate hook. The bar is twisted in the middle.

Support: Select a bar the right length and twist it in the middle. Flatten the ends down and bend the little curves as shown. This is drilled for a ¹⁄₈-in. rivet, then placed in position. Holes are marked in the hanger and in the back. Rivet the support in place. Be careful to have the hanger at right angles to the back. If you do not, the effect is spoiled, no matter how good the rest of the workmanship may be.

XXX

LAMPS, LANTERNS, IRON KETTLE STAND, UMBRELLA STAND

Make a 2¹⁄₂-in. circle in the centre of the 10-in. square piece. Drive this up ¹⁄₂ in. above the level by placing it over a 2¹⁄₂-in. hole in a wooden block or a swage block. If this piece of iron is placed over a hole any diameter and struck on the opposite side with the peen of the hammer it will sink into the hole and take the rounding shape. This can be done while the metal is cold. With a pair of dividers find the centre of boss and describe a faint circle 1 in. less than the diameter of the base. Tangent to those lines draw lines along the edge of the base. The dotted lines on the sketch show how the base should be cut out. The stock left on the corners forms the feet when the sides of the base are bent into shape. Cut out the piece of metal as described and bend the sides over ¹⁄₂ in. The corners must be heated red hot and formed separately. This is best done over the heel of the anvil. After placing the heated corners on the heel of the anvil drive quickly with a light hammer first on one side and then on the other, forming and upsetting the metal into shape at the same time. The flare on the bottom of the feet is worked in after the corners and shaped as shown in the sketch. Repeat this on the four corners. Now flare out the feet on the horn of the anvil. Out of the centre of the boss cut a circle a little less than the base of the post, to receive the post.

Post: Take a 10 × 5 in. piece and bend it around a piece of round iron so that the two edges will fit close together. The inside and outside of these are filed for brazing. (See Brazing.) This post is now bound with good strong wire to keep the joint close. Cover with flux, place in the fire and add the smelter to the joint on the inside of the pipe. When the smelter runs into the joint take it out of the fire and allow it to cool in the air. The joint is now filed up on the outside and if properly brazed should show only a very fine line made by the smelter. The upper part of the post is now swelled out as shown in the sketch, by heating at a low heat and spreading the metal out all around the end.

A cap is placed on top of the post to hold the arms that support the shade and to hold, too, the electric light bulb, or gas pipe, or oil well, according to the light to be used. The cap is made by rounding the end of a 1-in. bar to ¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, 2 ins. long. The other end is cut off about ¹⁄₂ in. to allow for the flattening down to make the cap.

Place the ¹⁄₂-in. stem into a heading tool and flatten this bar down quite thin. Spread it out so that the edges can be turned over at right angles to form a cap to fit the top of the post. This cap can be either brazed or riveted on to the post. Either will look well. If used for gas or electric light a hole should be drilled through the centre of the cap and through the post to receive the wire. If used for gas the lower side can be tapered out so that ¹⁄₈-in. gas pipe can be screwed in. Now cut a thread on the top of the post to fit an electric light socket. The same thread acts as a holder for the bracket of the shade holder. Place the cap on the post, rivet and braze. File the lower part of the post and the inside of the hole on the base perfectly clean. The bottom of the post should be filed a little tapering so it will fit into the base of the hole tight. Wire it in for brazing so that the post will stand perpendicular to the base. Carry your binding wires from the top of the post to the four corners of the base, using heavy wire for this work of binding. Cover the joint with flux. Place the centre on the fire and put the brazing material on the joint around the post. With a slow heat, heat till the smelter runs into the joint. Close off the blast, let it remain in the fire until cold, then remove it.

Shade holder: This is made of a piece of 1 × ¹⁄₈ × 10 in. soft steel. Fuller down 3 ins. from the end to ³⁄₈ × ¹⁄₈ in. Draw this out any length. Split the other end to within 1¹⁄₈ ins. of this fuller mark. Throw these arms out and draw each down the same size as the other, ¹⁄₈ × ³⁄₈ in. Place the crotch on a small bottom fuller and with the top fuller spread each arm out so that it will measure an equal distance from the other arms. At the same time this will shape the centre. Drive the end out tapering ³⁄₈ in. wide at the base, tapering to ¹⁄₈ in. square at the ends. The length of the arms depends upon the size of the shade. Tip ends of the arms should be bent up ¹⁄₈ in. to hold the shade in place. Drill a hole in the centre of the tripod and tap a thread in the hole to fit the thread on the end of the cap, so that this will screw on. These arms can be bent down or up to suit the height of the shade.

Shade: The shade pattern is developed in the same way as the shade described in the copper article on lamp shades. In this case, however, each unit is cut out separately and riveted to the next; all put together and filed; ¹⁄₈-in. soft iron rivets are used for riveting the parts.

Glass: The glass can be bought at any glazier's. Cathedral opalescent glass is best. Place a piece of card-board on one of the units and mark the outline of the opening. Cut about ³⁄₈ in. larger than this outline. This pattern taken to the glazier can be cut out from any kind of glass, according to the size wanted.

LAMP

This lamp may be used for gas, oil, or electricity. The difference between this and the preceding lamps lies in the construction of the base. The full page illustration shows lamp described here.

Base: Soft steel ¹⁄₈ × 5 × 24 ins.

Mark off the design shown by the full lines on the ¹⁄₈ × 5 × 24 in. piece. This is for one leg of the lamp. Cut with a sharp cold chisel along the outline about two thirds of the way through the thickness. Place the cut line in the jaws of the vise. With a pair of tongs grasp the waste material, then with a prying motion break off these pieces. File up the rough edge left by the cutting. With this piece as a pattern cut in like manner three more pieces, making four in all. This makes the stock for the four legs. Place the foot end of one piece into the fire and bend about 1 in. of this end into a small circle having a radius of not more than ³⁄₄ in. About 5 ins. back from this heat the metal to a length of 5 ins. Place it on the anvil as shown and with the hand hammer drive it into a circle.

While bending this into shape keep the circle a little larger than the drawing calls for. The circle is very easily reduced, while if it was made too small in the beginning one would have to straighten the whole piece out to increase the size. Therefore, it is best to work it large until finished. Wide stock like this is easily twisted out of shape, so that it is very difficult to bend it up in a circle of this kind. It is hard, too, to change any twist that may be worked in.

Bend the other three legs in the same way, as nearly like the first one as you can. Be sure to make the four legs the same height when finished. Drill three holes for ³⁄₈-in. bolts, as shown in the sketch. Seven inches below the top drill one hole in each leg for a rosette or some form of decorative treatment. These four legs are held in place by means of a tapered square plug 4 ins. long. The small end should fit the smallest width on the lamp legs and the taper 4 ins. below this width. Drill a hole through the centre of this plug for a ¹⁄₈-in. gas pipe, if to be used for gas. The same opening can be made for electric wires, etc., and a lamp well, placed at the end for a lamp.

To put the lamp together: Place one leg on the square plug and mark through the holes on the plug. Centre-punch these holes and drill for a ³⁄₈-in. top. The hole should be drilled through the plug. Tap out the holes and bolt the two legs, one on either side. While drilling these holes be sure they are at right angles to the centre axis of the plug. This means a little blocking up on the tapered end. Bolt the two legs to the plug by using any short ³⁄₈-in. bolts for this purpose. If all work so far has been carefully done these two legs will stand vertically to the plane of the table. If not they can be made to do so by taking out a little of the curve in the legs, thereby lengthening the side that might be a little short. Place one leg up on the third side and with a scratch awl mark the holes through on to the plug and drill these three holes through the plug. Tap out as you did before and put the other two feet on. Square up all the work done. Bolts are used for this purpose. Take ³⁄₈-in. square bolts, ¹⁄₂ in. long. Reduce the thickness of the head to ¹⁄₈ in., flattening and rounding the top slightly. Put these in place of the temporary bolts. They will hold the sides of the lamp in place.

A decorative piece can be made out of a bolt head by placing it in the heading tool and forming a pyramid shaped head. This is pushed through the hole and riveted on the other side. Cut off a piece of gas pipe short enough to extend about 1 in. above the top of the lamp and to come within 2 ins. from the base. This is now forced through the hole in the plug. If any of the bolts should have screwed into this hole, preventing this pipe from going through, they should be filed off. To fill up the interval caused by the four scrolls bending outward on the top of the lamp, forge a round ball on the end of a square bar to fit this opening. Cut off the ball and drill a hole in through the ball to slip over the pipe. The thread on the end of the pipe should fall below the top of the ball. Make a tripod as explained in the description of the preceding lamp. Screw it in the end of this pipe tight against the ball. The end of the pipe is used for the fixtures needed.

LANTERNS

The lantern shown here is of a simple design and can be made out of material without putting in any bends or twists. The material for the making of the uprights is ¹⁄₂ × ¹⁄₈ in. steel.

The top and bottom should be made of No. 16 soft steel. The design shows that all pieces are riveted together on a framework.

The top can be of one piece and shaped as shown in the sketch. Bottom is of one piece and is made for electric light, candle, or oil lamp. Fixtures for any one of the above ways of lighting must be placed in the bottom of the lantern. For the candle, a small socket can be riveted to the bottom. A cup to receive the oil lamp may be put in place. If candle or oil is used the bottom of the lantern must be fastened with a hinge, so that it will open to receive the lamp or candle. If it is adjusted for using electric light the cluster sockets can be fastened to the bottom, or they can hang from the top. These lanterns can be made in all sizes, from one small enough for a cozy corner to one large enough for a lodge keeper's gate.

They may be hung on ornamental brackets, as shown in the sketch here, or they may hang directly from the ceiling, with ring or chain fastenings. They are made square, round, hexagonal, and so forth.

IRON KETTLE STAND

The sketch here shows a simple design of a kettle stand. The parts are (1) upright stand, (2) alcohol lamp holder, (3) hook.

Material: One piece ⁵⁄₁₆-in. square iron, 20 ins. Two pieces ⁵⁄₁₆-in. square iron, 9 ins. One piece ⁵⁄₁₆ in. square iron, 7 ins. One piece ³⁄₁₆-in. round iron, 8 ins. One sheet No. 20 iron, 6 in. in diameter.

Directions: Flatten one end of each piece of the three pieces, ⁵⁄₁₆ × 20 in., 2 pieces of ⁵⁄₁₆ × 9 in. Weld these three together. Weld the ⁵⁄₁₆ × 7 in. piece to the three pieces as shown by the sketch. Bend the two 9-in. legs out equal distances from the front leg. This forms the tripod. Bend the ends of the three short pieces into a scroll to form the feet. Now, bend the centre rod up as shown in the sketch. When this is done catch it in the vise close to the bend. With the monkey wrench grasp it about two thirds of the way up and twist the centre piece to the right a sufficient number of turns to give it a regular bend between the two points. Reduce the end of this upright post to ³⁄₁₆ in. round and 6 ins. in length, leaving on the end a small boss about ³⁄₈ in. This boss is to be rounded up by flattening and rounding on the edge of the anvil. Through the centre of this boss punch a ³⁄₁₆-in. hole and drive into it a piece of 8 × ³⁄₁₆ in. round wire. When half of the wire is pushed through the hole bend the ends forward and at the same time drive them into the boss. This prevents the bent piece of iron from working up and down. It is now opened out as shown by the sketch and bent into a hook shape. The end of the post is turned so that the centre of this hook will hang over the centre of the tripod.

Lamp holder: Mark on the 6-in. disc a flower form similar to the one shown in the sketch. Cut out the design with a sharp chisel. File all rough edges and bend the shape up so that it will fit around the outside of the alcohol lamp, to hold it in place. Punch a hole through the centre for a ¹⁄₈-in. rivet and drill a ¹⁄₈-in. hole directly under the centre of the hook. Place the lamp holder on and rivet in place. When the kettle is placed on the hook it should hang directly over the lamp. If it does not do so the post may be changed and the position of the kettle made to correspond.

The umbrella stand in the accompanying illustration shows a splendidly shaped design. You will notice that the four uprights are curved and twisted, fastened to two rings 10 ins. in diameter. The pan in the bottom of the stand, placed there to catch the drippings from the umbrellas, is made of copper and is beaten into shape in the same way as you would drive any pan into form. This is made to fit in the base of the stand.

To make this stand, take four pieces 1 × ¹⁄₈ in. flat soft steel, 40 ins. long. Two pieces 1 × ¹⁄₈ in., 31 ins. long, are needed for the rings; four pieces 1 × ³⁄₈ × 12 ins. for legs. The copper pan should be 12 ins. in diameter.

XXXI

DOOR KNOCKERS, PLATES, ETC.