For more than three centuries the German emperors were crowned there.
It was growing dark as Cologne was reached, but the girls, knowing the cathedral was near the station, hurried outside to see it, and how wonderfully high and beautiful the noble great spires looked in the twilight no one can imagine who has never seen them.
Tuesday morning was spent in visiting the Church of St. Ursula (which is reputed to hold the bones of eleven thousand virgins martyred by the Huns) and the cathedral.
An excellent guide showed our party around, and pointed out the beautiful windows which King Ludwig presented, costing eighteen thousand pounds, English money.
The late King Frederick gave one elegant window, at the end opposite the entrance.
On one side of the building were windows made by Albert Dürer, considered Germany's greatest artist.
A large gold cross, presented by Marie de Medici, and costing an enormous sum of money, Alice thought was more beautiful than the windows.
On the way back to the hotel they met a company of soldiers who were singing as they marched along. It seemed very inspiring.
Wednesday morning this happy party took the train for Mayence up the Rhine, as the boats, they found, were not yet running.
Alice and Nellie had been reading up the legends of the Rhine, and could hardly wait to see its beauties and wonders.
The Rhine was not reached until after leaving Bonn. The scenery was so pretty they did not miss the river views.
In full view of the train was the famous avenue of horse-chestnuts, three-quarters of a mile in length. There is a large university at Bonn, and many other schools. As many of the students in their different costumes came to the station and walked up and down the platform to show themselves, the girls were very much amused.
The city is also noted as being the birthplace of Beethoven.
As soon as Bonn was out of sight, the river was beside them. At first the entire party were disappointed, the river seemed so quiet, narrow, and sluggish, compared to the rivers at home.
However, that was soon forgotten as its beauties grew upon them.
They soon saw the Seven Mountains coming into view, and wished they could stay over one night to see the sun rise from the top.
Mr. Winter felt he must hurry on, as they had spent so much time in Brussels, and see all they could from the train.
At Oberwinter, where there is the finest view down the Rhine, all the party looked back to see it.
Coblence was the next large town, and the situation is beautiful, as it is at the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle, with the strong fortifications opposite, the Castle of Ehrenbreitstein, often called the Gibraltar of the Rhine.
Just after leaving Coblence they saw two castles, one the royal castle of Stolzenfels on its "proud rock," more than four hundred feet above the river. It was destroyed by the French in the seventeenth century, but is now completely restored.
The other castle is directly opposite, above the mouth of the Lahn river, is called the Castle of Lahneck, and has been lately restored. Alice knew the legend of this castle, and told it to the rest of the party.
"It was here, in the beginning of the fourteenth century, that the order of Knights Templars, which had been founded for religious purposes chiefly, was severely persecuted by Philippe le Beau of France and Pope Clement V.
LAHNECK CASTLE.—Page 54.
"After many vicissitudes there was a long and desperate siege, in which all the knights fell except one man. He held the commander at bay, who was so overpowered by the knight's bravery he offered him life and liberty if he would stop fighting and beg for mercy.
"The templar's only answer was to throw his spear among the soldiers, and then was killed by throwing himself on their lances."
Boppart was the next town of any interest, it being a walled town of Roman origin.
The wall had crumbled away in many places, and houses had been built on the ruins.
On the opposite side of the river was Bornhoffen, with its twin castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, or "The Brothers."
Mr. Winter told this legend, which runs that once a rich knight, with his two sons and one daughter, lived there, and were very rich in gold and lands, which the old knight had gained through wrong and robbery. All his neighbors felt sure that such ill-gotten wealth would bring him anything but blessings.
The brothers inherited the avarice of the father; but the sister was lovely and gentle, like her mother. When the father died the brothers gave their sister much less than a third of the property. She gave hers to the cause of religion and went into a convent.
The brothers, disappointed, disputed over their share, and at last fell in love with the same maiden, who did not hesitate to flirt with both and increase their jealousy. They finally fought and killed each other.
Just as Mr. Winter finished his story, the guard of the train put his head into the car window, to say that the Lorely rock was nearly in sight.
Both girls jumped to their feet, for of course they were interested to see that famous rock where the water-nymph Lore was said to have lived. She would appear on the top of the rock, clothed in wonderful garments, and a veil of the color of the sea-green water reaching to her feet, to lure wicked people to destruction by her singing.
The people who came to the foot of the rock were swallowed in the waves, while those who tried to climb to the top were either thrown back into the water or led through the dense woods, only to be days finding their way out of them.
Lore was very kind to good people, having the fairy power of distinguishing good from evil.
At last a young count, much to his father's unhappiness, saw and fell in love with her. He constantly went to gaze upon her, for she was very beautiful.
He used to carry his zither and play and sing to her, until she finally caused the waves to rise so high that his boat was upset and broken. The count sank into the waves, and his attendants returned home to tell the father the sad news.
The old count swore revenge, and was going to seize Lore and have her burnt. The next night he took some friends and surrounded the rock.
When Lore appeared the old count said, "Where is my son?"
Lore pointed to the waves, at the same time continuing to sing very sweetly.
As soon as Lore had finished her song, she threw a stone into the river, which caused a wave to rise. She mounted it and sank from view with it, never to be seen again, though her singing was often heard by men passing by.
The rock was formerly called Lorely, but is now Lurlei, and has a lovely echo said to be the gift of Lore.
The girls were disappointed to see the water around the rock so very quiet—no whirlpool at all.
When they saw that a cut had been made through the rock for railroad trains, all the romance was gone for them.
Alice said, "O papa, how could anybody spoil that pretty story by running trains through the rock? If that is the way my romances are going to end I will not read any more."
However, she soon saw a house built in the river, and wanted to know what it was and why it was there.
"I know," said Nellie. "I was reading about it the other day."
It is called the Pfalz, and was built by Louis of Bavaria in the thirteenth century, in order to exact tribute from passing vessels.
Opposite is the town of Bacharach, the Ara Bacchi of the Romans, and has long been famous for its wines. In Longfellow's "Golden Legend" is the old rhyme,—
The Bacchus-Altar is to be found in this lovely country. It stands just below the town, but the water has to be very low to read the inscription (which is nearly illegible), as it is situated between the bank of the river and an islet.
The Altar is supposed to have been erected by the Romans to their god of wine.
Many other castles, some restored, but the most of them in ruins, were passed, before Assmanshausen, famous for its red wines, was reached.
Mr. Winter said, "Now this ends what is called 'the great gorge of the Rhine,' and the river will broaden, and the open country, not very interesting, is before you."
Just before reaching Bingen they saw the ruins of Ehrenfels, and in the middle of the river the Mausthurm, or "Mouse Tower."
"O papa, I know the story of that tower," said Alice. "Can I tell it?"
"We are only too glad to hear it," said her mamma.
"Hatto was Bishop of Fulda, and wishing to be made Archbishop of Mayence, used every means in his power to accomplish his purpose. He succeeded, and became very ambitious, proud, and cruel. He taxed the poor to build for himself fine dwellings.
MOUSE TOWER.—Page 61.
"At last he built the tower in the river where it was very narrow, to compel all ships to pay him toll.
"A famine set in, and he, having plenty of money, bought up everything and filled his granaries. He sold his stores at such high prices that only the rich could buy.
"He paid no heed to the supplications of the famishing people, as he intended building a superb palace with his money.
"One day when Hatto was entertaining friends at dinner, the starving people forced their way into the dining-hall and begged for food. He told them to go to a large barn where corn should be given them. When they were all inside, Hatto ordered the doors to be closed and fastened on the outside and the barn to be set on fire.
"When their shrieks reached the dining-hall, Hatto turned to his guests and said, 'Hear how the corn-mice squeal: I do the same to rebels as I do to them.'
"The wrath of Heaven was turned against him, for out of the ashes at the barn thousands of mice took their way to the palace, filling the rooms and attacking Hatto. Thousands were killed, but they steadily increased, and he was finally obliged to flee in terror of his life to a boat, still pursued by legions.
"Hatto was ferried over the Rhine to the tower, but the mice perforated the walls, and fell on him by the thousands, and ate him up. They then disappeared, and the tower has been called the 'Mouse Tower' ever since.
"It has never been used in any way, but stands as a warning to despotic people."
Mr. Winter said, "Alice, you told that very well; but he was not such a very wicked man as the legend makes him. He was imperious and caused his people much suffering, but was the Emperor's confidant and was called the Heart of the King."
Bingen is not a very interesting town, but has many walks and drives that are full of interest in every way.
Directly opposite, on the heights of Niederwald, is the beautiful monument built to commemorate the restitution of the German Empire in 1870-1871.
Alice and Nellie did wish they could stop long enough to go up and see it, it looked so grand and mighty outlined against the sky. Mr. Winter said, "No, we must get to Mayence to-night."
There was not much of interest after leaving Bingen, as the train left the river and the Rhine was not seen again until just before entering Mayence, where the Main flows most peacefully into it, making a very beautiful picture.
Mr. Winter as usual had telegraphed to Mayence for rooms, and found very comfortable, large rooms ready for them in a new, pleasant hotel near the station.
After resting a little while Mr. Winter said, "Who wants to go with me and take a drive around the city?"
The entire party, even Mrs. Winter, who had thought she was too tired to go out again, said they would like to go.
What a delightful drive they had, at the close of a warm, lovely day, around that interesting old city, with its wonderful fortifications! The view of the rivers at the base of the hill they thought as pretty as any they had seen all day.
Mr. Winter told them what a very old city it was, a Roman camp having been laid there thirty-eight years before Christ.
MAYENCE—GENERAL VIEW.—Page 65.
The foundations may be said to date from fourteen years B.C., when Drusus built his extensive fortifications. There is a Roman monument forty-five feet high erected in honor of Drusus. There are also remains of a Roman aqueduct to be found outside the city.
The cathedral was founded in 798. It has been burnt and restored six times, and is one of the grandest in Germany.
Just outside the cathedral they saw a fine statue of Gutenberg, who is regarded by the Germans as the inventor of movable types for printing.
Our party drove back to the hotel, had a nice supper, which was waiting for them, and went to bed feeling they had enjoyed that day more than any since leaving home.
The next morning all were rested and eager to get to Nuremberg, the end of the trip. Mr. Winter, by some mistake, did not get the fast train, and as the one they took stopped very often, and the scenery was not very interesting, our party arrived in Nuremberg so tired they ate their supper and went directly to bed.
In the morning Mr. Winter said, "I will give one day to you for sight-seeing, and then I must attend to business. You will have to spend the rest of your time going around with a guide or by yourselves."
Alice was delighted with the old moat which was opposite her window, and wanted to look in it at once.
Nellie felt the castle was of more importance, and could hardly wait to get there. The moat surrounds the old city, and now is rented to gardeners, who live in the old towers and cultivate the land in the moat.
Our party started out to walk until they were tired, and kept on the sidewalk side of the moat, and thought it did look so pretty with everything so fresh and green. The cherry-trees were all white with their lovely blossoms, which grew even with the sidewalk.
NUREMBERG WALLS.
Finally they went through an old gateway, which was said to be the one where a rope was kept in the olden time, to use on the bakers. If they did not give full weight, the bakers were tied to the end of a pole and dipped into the water several times. If poison was found in the bread, they were immediately drowned.
As the ladies were getting tired, Mr. Winter called a carriage to drive them to the castle. As he could speak German, the driver told him many interesting things, and pointed out various objects of interest. He showed them one house that had been occupied by the same family for four hundred and fifty years.
The churches of St. Sebald and St. Lawrence they admired very much on the outside, leaving the beauties of the interiors for another day. They passed one fountain called the Goose Man, and another, the Beautiful Fountain, built in 1385. Also, a fine statue of Hans Sachs, erected in 1874, who was known through Germany as the cobbler-poet. It was from his life Wagner wrote the opera of the "Meistersinger."
Soon the driver drew up his horses at a corner where a small house stood under a hill, called the Sausage Shop, for its wonderfully cooked sausages. It has been made famous by such men as Albert Dürer, the great artist, Hans Sachs, and the old burgomasters meeting there for their nightly mugs of beer and a sausage.
ALBRECHT DÜRER'S HOUSE.—Page 74.
The statue of Albert Dürer, erected in 1840, is between the Sausage Shop and his old home. All the houses, with their deep, slanting roofs, were objects of interest, but most of all was that of Albert Dürer, which is the only house in Nuremberg that has not undergone some alteration.
The house is now filled with many curiosities, some of them having belonged to Albert Dürer, and is open every day to visitors. The girls wanted to stop and go in at once, but Mr. Winter said, "No, we cannot stop now; we must get to the castle, and leave the house until we have more time."
The castle stands very high, and they were obliged to drive up through very narrow and steep streets; but the horses were used to it, and Mrs. Winter finally overcame her nervousness.
When the top of the hill was reached, there was a plateau where a beautiful view of the city was to be seen. They left the carriage here, and after looking at the scenery they walked on up to the castle.
NUREMBERG CASTLE.
On the way they saw a small shed, and, on looking in, found it held the famous well. A young girl was there, who, in a parrot sort of way, told them that the well was built in the eleventh century, under Conrad II., by convicts, and that it took thirty years to finish it. She told Mrs. Winter to hold a mirror in her hand while she lowered a candle, to show by the reflection in the mirror the depth of the well. It took just six seconds for water which she poured out of a glass to reach the water in the well. She told them it was four hundred and fifty feet deep, and they all believed her.
In the courtyard of the castle they saw an old linden tree growing, which is said to have been planted by Empress Kunigunde eight hundred years ago.
The castle they found quite interesting without being very elegant. A lady in charge of it told them many things of interest about the castle and the city.
She told them that the first records of Nuremberg date from 1050. In 1105 the town was besieged, conquered, and destroyed by Henry V., again besieged in 1127 by Emperor Lothar, from which time imperial officials appeared who took the title of Burggrafer.
Frederick I. (Barbarossa), under whom the burg was enlarged, frequently lived here from 1156 to 1188. Rudolph von Hapsburg held his first diet here in 1274, and often visited the town.
Under Emperor Karl IV. the first stone bridge was built, and the streets were paved.
The first fundamental law of the empire was formed by him, and is known as the "Golden Bull." It was framed in Nuremberg in 1356, and is still kept in Frankfort.
According to this law, every German emperor was obliged to spend his first day of government in Nuremberg.
His government was very favorable to Nuremberg in every way.
The four large towers were built 1555 to 1568, after a plan designed by Albert Dürer. The town reached its highest artistic development in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, under such men as Albert Dürer, A. Krafft, Herman Fischer, and many others.
Goblets and many such objects of art were made here at that time. In 1649 Nuremberg displayed its last splendor. Commerce had been ruined by different wars. In 1806 it was made a matter of rejoicing when it came under the crown of Bavaria. King Ludwig first revived art, and trade made a start.
In 1835 the first railroad was opened to Fürth. In 1855 King Max II. with his family lived here, and the Imperial Burg was offered to him as a present by the town.
The lady also told them that the five-cornered tower, which is the oldest building in Nuremberg and connected with the castle, contained a collection of instruments of torture. Among them is the iron virgin, a figure of a woman, which opens and is full of spikes. The poor victim would be shut up in its clutches.
None of our party felt like visiting that horrible place, so they thanked the woman, and took some last looks at the beautiful views to be seen from the windows. To their surprise they found it was noon-time, and as everything in Nuremberg is closed for an hour and a half at mid-day, they were driven back to the Wurtemberger Hof, their comfortable hotel, where everything possible was done for their pleasure.
After a good dinner and a rest, Mr. Winter said he thought, as his time was so limited, he would like to visit the Town Hall and St. John's Cemetery. A guide was found, and they started out with more enthusiasm than ever.
The guide told them that the Town Hall was built in the years from 1616 to 1619, in Italian style. He pointed out to them a fine picture by Paul Ritter, painted in 1882, to represent the act of the arrival of the German Emperor's Insignia in Nuremberg. The guide also showed them several pictures of Dürer's representing the triumphal procession of Emperor Maximilian. His pictures are, many of them, very indistinct.
They were taken into a room where the wedding couples go to sign their marriage contracts.
Mr. Winter was more interested than the girls, and Mrs. Winter was so tired they were glad enough to get in the carriage and be driven to the famous old cemetery.
For some blocks before reaching the entrance are paintings of Christ, representing the last days of his life.
At the gateway are the three statues of Christ and the two thieves nailed to the cross.
The guide showed them the graves of Dürer and Sachs, and one of a man who had been killed, while asleep, by his wife hammering a nail in his head. There was a bronze skull, with the nail in it just where she killed him.
Another interesting bronze was the figure of a woman with a lizard on a perch, which, when touched, turns towards the woman's figure and shows where she was bitten in the neck by the lizard that killed her.
The girls thought that very quaint and more interesting than any they saw, though there were many very beautifully carved, and, being of bronze, were of great value.
While our party was wandering through the cemetery a funeral was taking place, and as the entire service was intoned, it was very impressive.
Mr. Winter said as they entered the carriage, "You have had enough sight-seeing for to-day, and we will drive home and talk over all the wonderful and interesting things we have seen and heard to-day."
The following morning Mr. Winter left the ladies, who walked aimlessly, not caring much where they went, it was all so full of interest to them.
Accidentally they visited quite an interesting place called the Preller House. It was built three hundred years ago by a Venetian nobleman, and is now used as a furniture warehouse. There is a chapel in it, and some of the old furniture still remains.
The ceilings are very fine, and in two of the rooms were only discovered when the present occupants were having gas-pipes put in the house.
Mr. Winter did not come home to dinner, and in the afternoon Mrs. Winter and the girls went to the Museum, where they found more to interest them than anywhere they had been. It had a very large and interesting collection of paintings and antiquities, but the girls enjoyed seeing the old cloister—the first they had ever seen.
That evening when Mr. Winter came home, he told his wife that he should only be obliged to remain one more day, and they must entertain themselves again without him.
The next morning Mrs. Winter took a guide with them, as she wished to visit some of the shops where they could collect some curiosities.
They also went to the Market square, where the poor people can buy everything they need at very reasonable prices.
Mrs. Winter then said, "Now, girls, we will visit those churches of which we have only seen the outside."
The guide took them first to St. Lawrence's Church.
This church, he told them, was mentioned as early as 1006, and had the handsomest artistic decoration of any of the celebrated churches throughout Germany. The finest portion is the choir, with a vaulted roof supported by slender pillars from which the arches are formed like palm branches.
The guide wished them particularly to look at the Gothic bronze chandelier, which weighs four hundred and eighty-two pounds, and was cast by Peter Vischer in 1489.
The girls were charmed by the seven windows of the choir, which are considered the best examples of Nuremberg glass-painting from 1450 to 1490. The last window, called the Emperor's, was presented by the citizens of Nuremberg in memory of the restitution of the German Empire. It was put in the 22d of March, 1881. Mrs. Winter was much interested in some beautiful tapestries representing the lives of St. Lawrence and St. Catharine, and are over four hundred years old.
There were many more paintings of much interest, some of them Albert Dürer's. As they were leaving, the girls saw some richly carved chairs by the doors, and asked the guide why they were there.
He told them that they formerly belonged to the guilds, and the masters sat in them, in turn, to receive alms.
From this church our party was driven to St. Sebaldus's, which was finished in the tenth century. One of the most interesting things they saw was the font, which was remarkable not only as the first product of Nuremberg's foundries, but as having been used to christen King Wenceslas of Bohemia, in 1361.
There were more paintings of Dürer's to be seen here, but the finest work was the sepulchre of St. Sebaldus in the centre of the choir. It is the most extensive work German art has ever produced, and was cast by Peter Vischer and his five sons.
"It was commenced in 1508 and completed in 1519. It rests on twelve snails, having four dolphins at its corners, the whole forming a pagan temple adorned with the Twelve Apostles. It is surmounted by twelve smaller figures, and finally by an infant Christ holding a globus in his hand, the latter being a key of the whole monument, when it is to be rent asunder. There is also a fine portrait of Peter Vischer in this church."
Of course there were many more objects of interest to be seen, but Mrs. Winter thought they had seen enough; so they were driven home to dinner.
In the afternoon they took a drive out of the city to a beer-garden situated at the side of a pretty lake. They had some tea, and walked on the borders of the lake quite a distance. Mrs. Winter said, "I wish we had such a quiet, pretty place near home where we could spend an afternoon as delightfully as we have here."
That evening Nellie said, "Dear Mrs. Winter, how can I ever thank you and your husband for this trip? Mamma could not have come, and never shall I forget what I have enjoyed through your kindness."
Mrs. Winter told her that the pleasure she had given them was more than hers, as it had added so much to Alice's happiness.
Alice said, "Now, mamma, will you not add to our pleasures by repeating Longfellow's beautiful poem on Nuremberg before we go to bed?"
"Dear Mrs. Winter, please do," said Nellie. "I have never heard of it, but I know it must be very lovely."
"Very well," said Mrs. Winter. "I certainly never knew a more appropriate time to recite it than now."
The girls gathered around her in the twilight as she sweetly commenced:—
"How very beautiful!" said Nellie. "Thank you so much, Mrs. Winter, for reciting it to us. I shall learn it myself when I get home, trusting I may sometime give as much pleasure to another as you have given me."
Mr. Winter said, "Why, Agnes, I never heard you recite that poem so well."
"I never did," said his wife; "for I never truly felt it before."
"Thank you, mamma dear," said Alice. "Now we will go to bed, feeling all the happier for the lovely poem which has put our best thoughts into words."
Mrs. Winter was very anxious to travel to Paris by the way of Strasbourg, as she had always wished to see the cathedral with its wonderful clock.
Mr. Winter made inquiries and found that was decidedly the best way to go, which was a great delight to them all.
Our party left Nuremberg early in the morning, sorry to see the last of the most interesting city they had seen thus far on their trip. Nellie, who was looking forward to meeting her father and mother in Paris, was quite happy to make a move in that direction.
The first part of the trip was not very interesting, but the latter was delightful, and as they had a compartment to themselves the girls could enjoy the view from both sides of the train. A change of cars was made at a place where there was hardly anything but the station and the railroad interests. Here they ate a cold lunch from the counter, though there were some hot dishes on a table; but they did not look very tempting.
The spire of the Strasbourg Cathedral could be seen some time before reaching the station, and well it might, being four hundred and sixty-six feet high, and by some authorities said to be the highest in the world.
The fortifications had been so fine at Mayence our party was surprised to find others much finer here, many of them being new, having been built at the time of the French and German war in 1870.
The engineering of some of them is particularly fine, as they are made to be opened, so that all the surrounding country can be flooded if necessary.
The train wound round the city, giving them a fine view of the fortifications and the soldiers being drilled in many of the enclosures.
Strasbourg was one of the most important cities during the last war, and a great portion of it was destroyed. One side of the cathedral was badly damaged, but is now thoroughly restored.
Mr. Winter took his family to a small hotel on the square near the station, having been recommended there by the manager of the hotel at Nuremberg. He found it very comfortable, and every possible attention was shown them.
Arriving about five o'clock, there was plenty of time to be driven around the city. Of course they started for the cathedral, but on the way the driver stopped the carriage to point out one of the highest chimneys on one of the tallest houses, where the storks had built a nest.
He also told them how the storks arrive every spring and build their nests, and then leave in the fall with their young, to return the next spring with their families no larger nor smaller than when they go away. What becomes of the surplus is a great question—whether they only increase sufficiently to fill the vacancies caused by death or old age, or that the young ones found colonies in other countries.
The storks are held in great reverence by mankind, and are never harmed. Indeed, it is considered good fortune to the inmates of a house when a nest is built on one of its chimneys.
The driver told a story of one man who gave up the use of his room an entire winter, rather than destroy a nest which two storks had built over the top of his chimney, and thus prevented his building a fire.
As they approached the cathedral Alice said, "Why, papa, where is the clock? I cannot see it at all."
STRASBOURG STORKS.—Page 94.
"I do not know," said Mr. Winter; "but it certainly is there somewhere."
The driver took them to the front of the building, where they were met by a guide, who showed them the beauties of the outside architecture and the many statues of the apostles and saints. He told them that the cathedral was commenced in 1015 and finished in 1601.
The guide showed them the plateau half-way up the height of the steeple, and told them that it is used by men who watch for fires all the time. The citizens are so proud of the cathedral that they have it dusted and washed inside very frequently.
"Where is the clock?" said Mrs. Winter, as soon as the guide stopped talking long enough for her to speak a word.
The man did not answer, but took them around to a side door, where, after receiving his tip, he left them and walked away.
At first they did not know what to do, but Mrs. Winter said, "I think we had better go inside if we can."
In they went, and right by the door was the clock. A fine-looking man dressed elegantly met them. He proved to be a finely educated Swiss, and he explained the various wonders of the clock.
STRASBOURG—CATHEDRAL CLOCK.—Page 96.
He told them that the clock was built three hundred years ago, and was to run a certain number of years. It shows all fête days for all those years, tells the changes of the moon, eclipses—in fact, everything that one could imagine.
The apostles do not all come out and walk around except at noon, but as it was quarter before six our party saw three men move.
The clock stops at six at night and then commences again at six in the morning.
Mrs. Winter said the longer she looked at it, the more wonderful it seemed to her that any man could think of so many things.
The guide also told them that the man who first conceived the idea of the clock became totally blind when it was nearly completed. Of course he could work no more, and it was never thought the clock would be finished.
He lived thirty years, and after his death another man was found who thought he could complete it. He succeeded, and was paid by the government for his time and work.
Mrs. Winter said, "I think it is the most wonderful thing I ever saw, and I do not know which man I admire the most—the one who conceived such a work, or the man who could carry out such marvellous thoughts of a man whom he had never met."
After leaving the cathedral our party was driven around the city. The old part they found very quaint and picturesque, with its high and sloping roofs. The new part, built by the Germans, was very handsome, some of the buildings, like the palace, conservatory of music, and the post-office, being particularly fine.
The driver told them that one of the great interests there was the making of pâté de foie gras. It is made from the livers of geese which are fed in such a way that the liver grows abnormally large, often weighing three pounds.
He also told them that many of the French people are still very bitter against the Germans, even pulling down their shades to the windows if a regiment should march by the house.
On their return to the hotel, the manager told Mr. Winter he would have a very quick and comfortable journey to Paris if he took the Orient express which runs between Constantinople and Paris. It would leave Strasbourg three hours later than the ordinary train, and would arrive in Paris some hours before it.
Mr. Winter engaged a compartment at once, and the next day had a very enjoyable trip, though it was a very long one. The first part of the route, over mountains and through ravines, was very delightful; but after getting into France it was flat and uninteresting.
They passed through Epérgny, which was interesting for its vines, which covered the fields for many miles. From these grapes champagne is made.
Paris was reached at six o'clock, and their hotel, which had been recommended by friends, was found to be very homelike.
The Fords were there waiting for them, and were as glad to see Nellie as she was glad to be with them again.
That evening after Nellie had told her mamma some of her pleasant experiences, Mr. Winter said, "Now we have just five days to spend in Paris, and you must decide what you would most like to do. Mr. Ford and I are entirely at your disposal."
Guidebooks were brought out and studied, and after many discussions their plans were settled for each day.
On Thursday morning they went to the Louvre, feeling there would be so many pictures to see they had better visit it first.
How tired they did get sliding around on those slippery floors, trying to see the nine miles of pictures, many of which were quite uninteresting to them all.
In the afternoon Mr. Winter took his wife and the girls in a carriage, and started for the Bois de Boulogne. When the Place de la Concorde was reached, with its monolithic obelisk of Luxor, and fountains and statues, with the gardens of the Tuileries one side, and the Champs Élysées on the other, the girls both exclaimed, "How beautiful!" but Nellie added, "When I think of all the horrors that have taken place here it loses some of its loveliness to me."