This important transaction having been closed, the Light-house Board, in terms of this act (46th George III. chap. cxxxvi.) were empowered to reduce the light-duty of the Isle of May, to all British vessels, from one penny half-penny, as collected heretofore, to one penny per ton, when English and Irish ships were no longer treated as foreigners, by paying double dues. Immediate measures were also taken for altering and improving the light. It was, however, too late at the end of the session of 1814, to commence operations on the island; but, in the following summer, the new light-house was erected, and a light from oil with reflectors was exhibited, on the 1st day of February 1816, after a coal-light had been continued here for 181 years, or from 1635.
As the island of May lies about half way between the light-houses of Inch Keith and the Bell Rock, it was thought proper to have two or three apartments in the May Light-house for the reception of such members of the Light-house Board, as might happen to be detained by contrary winds in occasional visits to the Bell Rock, upon which landing is often very difficult and precarious, depending both on the state of the weather and the tides. The dwelling-house at the Isle of May, therefore, is larger than would otherwise have been required for the accommodation of the two light-keepers and their families.
In consequence of this change upon the light of May, notice was given to the public, that it had been assumed one of the Northern Light-houses, and that the Commissioners had directed a new light-house, upon improved principles, to be erected, which would not only alter its former appearance, but also occasion a change on the light of Inchkeith, situate about twenty-two miles farther up the Firth of Forth. The following description of the Isle of May light was published.
The above description, in so far as regards the appearance of the light of May being exactly applicable to that of Inchkeith, described at page 25. of this Introduction, it was found expedient to alter it from a stationary to a revolving light, that it might be distinguished from the light of May, where a revolving light would have been liable to be mistaken for the Bell Rock light, owing to the more contiguous position of the May island to the Bell Rock.
The light upon Inchkeith, hitherto a stationary light from oil, with reflectors, was therefore altered and converted into that description of light known to mariners as a Revolving light without colour, on the same night that the change took place upon the Isle of May. The light of Inchkeith is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of five leagues in favourable weather, exhibiting a bright light once in every minute, and gradually becoming less luminous, it totally disappears to a distant observer. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, which becomes fainter, and more obscure, until it is totally eclipsed. By this alteration, the same description and appearance of the other lights upon the coast is preserved, and the possibility of mistaking Inchkeith light for the numerous lights on the land, with which it is surrounded, is now also effectually prevented.
It had long been the wish of the mercantile interest of the Firth of Clyde and St George’s Channel, to have a light on the coast of Galloway, to direct ships, on the Scotch side, into the Irish Channel. From the great amount of light-house duties collected upon the western coast, and the extent of light-house works which had of late years been erected upon the eastern shores, including the Bell Rock and Isle of May light-houses, the Commissioners were desirous of accommodating the trade of the western coast, as far as the demands of shipping required, or the state of the light-house funds would permit. It was accordingly resolved, that a report upon this subject, made to the Light-house Board by the author, should be submitted to the trade of Liverpool, Glasgow and Greenock, for their observations. Having in this manner procured the necessary information, it was resolved that a light-house should be erected for the benefit of this coast, upon the northern extremity of the Mull of Galloway in Wigtonshire, on the point of Corsewall; because, in addition to the advantages of this situation, as an excellent direction both for the entrance of the Irish Channel and Firth of Clyde, it would answer as a guide to the Roadstead or anchorage of Loch Ryan.
In the course of the correspondence on this subject, it had been stated by Mr Quintin Leitch, Chief Magistrate of Greenock, a gentleman well acquainted with the navigation of these seas, that if light-houses were erected upon the Isle of Man, these, with the lights of Copeland and Kilwarlin, on the Irish side of the channel, together with the proposed light on Corsewall Point, and another on the Hulin or Maiden rocks, off the coast of Antrim, would fully protect this important part of the coast.
After considering the subject in its various bearings, the Board resolved, as before noticed, on the erection of a light-house on Corsewall Point, in the month of January 1815, and on the 17th day of June following, the foundation-stone was laid, by Mr Quintin Leitch, as master mason, when Mr James Spreull, Chamberlain of the city of Glasgow, Mr Lachlan Kennedy, under whose charge the works were placed, and the Engineer, assisted at the ceremony. In the course of the Summer and Autumn, the tower of this light-house was got to the height of 35 feet, and some progress was also made with the walls of the house for the light-keepers.
The works at Corsewall being suspended during winter, were again resumed in the ensuing spring. The light-room was completed in the autumn, and the light was exhibited to the public on the night of the 15th day of November 1816, agreeably to the following description.
“Corsewall light-house is situate in the county of Wigton, in North Lat. 55° 1´, and West Long. 5° 5´. It bears by compass, from Millour Point, on the western side of the channel leading into Loch Ryan, W. by S., distant about two miles; from Turnberry Point, SW. 21 miles; from the Craig of Ailsa SS. W. 15 miles; from the Mull of Kintyre S. E. S. 31 miles; from the Hulin or Maiden rocks on the coast of Antrim, E. by S. 20 miles; from Copeland Light-house, near the entrance of Belfast loch, NE. ½ E. 22 miles, and from Laggan point in Galloway, NE., distant 3½ miles. To distinguish this light, which is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, from the other lights upon the coast, it is known to mariners as a Revolving light with colour, and exhibits from the same light-room a light of the natural appearance, alternating with a light tinged with a red colour. These lights, respectively, attain their greatest strength, or most luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, the lights become alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short period. The light-room at Corsewall is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land near Laggan Point, towards the south, and by Turnberry Point towards the north. This light is elevated 112 feet above the medium level of the sea, and its most luminous side may be seen like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five or six leagues, but the side tinged red being more obscured by the colouring shades, is not seen at so great a distance.”
The subject of the erection of the light-houses on the Isle of Man, having again been agitated by the merchants of Liverpool, the rates of duty which would probably be demanded for the erection of a light-house upon the Calf of Man, was procured from one of the agents of the Trinity-House of London upon that coast. This schedule of duties appearing to be high, a correspondence took place between Mr William Laird of Liverpool, and Mr Quintin Leitch of Greenock, respecting the rate of Scotch light-house duties, which was ultimately brought under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses, by Sir William Rae, Bart.
Reference having been made to the author relative to the expence of erecting a light-house upon the Calf of Man, he stated to the Board, that, in the course of a tour which he had made in the year 1802, round the coast of Great Britain, he visited the Isle of Man, with a view to ascertain the most eligible places for light-houses on that island, where he considered two light-house stations to be indispensably necessary, viz. one on the Calf of Man, to the south, and another on the Point of Ayre, towards the north of the island. From the numerous shipping of that district, he only calculated upon the duty of one farthing per ton upon shipping for the light-houses of both stations. The Commissioners took this matter under consideration at the time, as appears from their minutes of the 14th January 1803, which state, that “Mr Stevenson had reported very strongly of the great utility which would attend the erection of light-houses on the Isle of Man; but that island not being within the jurisdiction either of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses or Trinity Board of London, both boards seem thereby to be prevented from accomplishing an object so much wished for by mariners, as such an improvement upon the coast would prove a great additional security to the navigation of those seas, and especially to the trade of a great number of the ports of England and Ireland. In order, therefore, that this circumstance might not be overlooked, the Commissioners direct this notice to be taken of it in their minutes, that if an application to Parliament should, at a future period, be deemed necessary, they may judge how far it may not be proper in them to apply for power to erect lights upon the Isle of Man.”
When these circumstances were intimated to the merchants of Liverpool, and especially that the rate of one farthing per ton was considered a sufficient rate of duty, the business was brought under the notice of the Association of Shipowners and other public bodies of Liverpool, by Mr John Gladstone, when a representation and petition from them was presented to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, praying, that they would bring a bill into Parliament, to enable them to erect the necessary light-houses on the Isle of Man.
This application having been complied with, Sir William Rae was requested to attend to the progress of the bill, and to take the assistance of any of the other members of the light-house board who might happen to be in London at the time. The Isle of Man Light-house Bill was accordingly brought forward by Mr Huskisson, in absence of Mr Canning, member of Parliament for Liverpool, as a measure in which that port was specially interested. But when the subject was communicated to the late Mr Rose, M. P., one of the elder brethren of the Trinity House of London, he requested that nothing might be done in this measure, until he should have an opportunity of consulting with the gentlemen of the Trinity-House, as he considered the Isle of Man to be within the district of that board. After repeated meetings, at which Mr Rose attended, he ultimately stated, that the Trinity Board did not consider the Isle of Man as coming under their line of coast; and that the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses might, therefore, go on with their bill. It was accordingly brought forward in the House of Commons, and the author attended to prove the preamble of the bill in the House of Lords; and in June 1815 it received the Royal assent.
In returning towards Scotland, I embarked in the Light-house Yacht at Liverpool, and visited the Isle of Man. It appeared, on examining the site for the erection of a light-house on the Point of Ayre, or northern extremity of the island, that there would be no difficulty in fixing its place. But the case was different at the Calf Island, as there seemed an evident advantage in having the house on a low situation, to keep it more free from fog, and where it might also be more in the line of direction with a dangerous reef called the Chickens, lying about a mile into the offing. On this low position, called Kaager Point, the high land of the Calf would have shut in the light very much from the northward. Another situation, however, presented itself; but, as this last station was considerably higher, it might perhaps be found more uncertain with regard to fog resting upon it in thick and hazy weather; and it was therefore thought prudent to place a trusty person on the island, with directions for observing and communicating the state of the weather for about six months, previously to determining the site of the light-house on the Calf of Man. This mode of inquiring into the subject, was strengthened by the report of some intelligent persons relative to the prevailing state of the weather at the Isle of Man, who represented that the Calf Island was less liable to be enveloped in fog than the higher parts of the Main Island.
In the month of August 1815, when Sir William Rae, Bart. then Sheriff of the shire of Edinburgh, Mr Robert Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, and Mr Adam Duff, Sheriff of Forfarshire, Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, visited this island, they concurred in judging it highly proper to make special observations on the state of the weather at the Calf Island. In the beginning of November following, the author accordingly sent Mr Macurich, a shipmaster in the light-house service, to that island, with directions to reside there, and make monthly returns of the state of the weather, agreeably to a printed form. During his stay of seven months, it appears, upon the whole, that the fog rested only twice upon the highest land of the Calf, while it cleared partially below. On one of these occasions, I was on board of the Light-house yacht, then at anchor off the island, when the fog was for a time general; and as the weather became clear, I observed that it first disappeared upon the lower parts of the island; and that in half an hour the whole of the Calf was seen. In the journal of the weather alluded to, the Calf Island is represented as often perfectly free of fog, while the higher parts of the opposite mainland of Man, was hid in mist. To account for this, it may be noticed, that the mass of matter in the Calf island is much less, and the land is also much lower, than in the main island. Part of this effect may also be ascribed to the rapidity of the tides, which create a current of wind, particularly in the narrow channel between the Main and Calf islands; which have a direct tendency to clear away the fog; as I have observed at the Skerries in the Pentland Firth , and in similar situations on different parts of the coast, where rapid currents prevail.
From these observations, the author was led to report to the Commissioners, that the light-house on the Calf of Man should hold an intermediate position between the highest part of the island, called Bushel’s Hill, and the lower site called Kaager Point; and, further, that by erecting two light-house towers in a certain relative position to each other, they would point out the line of direction of the dangerous sunken rocks called the Chickens, and by adopting that description of light known to mariners as a Revolving light without Colour, this station would be sufficiently distinguished from the lights which surround the Isle of Man on the Scotch, Irish, and English shores.
A difficulty occurred in proceeding with the Isle of Man light-houses, from the want of funds to enable the Commissioners to proceed with the works. The Board had already become liable for a large sum to liquidate the payment of the purchase-money of the private right of the Portland Family to the duties of the light of May. On this measure, and in the erection of the Bell Rock light-house, as before noticed, there had been expended upwards of L. 160,000 in the course of the last ten years; so that it became necessary to borrow L. 10,000, agreeably to the act, for the Isle of Man. In this state of things, the works at the Isle of Man were delayed for a time; but, in the month of August 1816, they were commenced. The light-rooms were completed in the month of December 1817; and, on the night of the 1st of February 1818, the lights, both at the stations of the Point of Ayre, and Calf Island, were exhibited to the public, agreeably to the following descriptions.
The only consideration to be taken into view in fixing the site of the Point of Ayre Light-house, was the wasting appearance of the shores by the effects of the sea at this part of the coast. Although, therefore, it would have answered fully better, for the purposes of the light, to have erected the tower close upon high-water-mark, yet the beach being composed of a loose shifting gravel, it became a matter of prudence rather to keep the buildings at some distance from it.
“The Point of Ayre light-house is situate about 650 feet from the sea, at high-water of spring tides, upon an extensive plain in the Main Island of Man, in north latitude 54° 27´, and longitude 4° 20´ west of London. The light-house bears, by compass, from the Mull of Galloway, S. S. E. and is distant 22 miles; from Burrowhead, S. S. W. ½ W. distant 16 miles; from St Bees, in Cumberland, W. by N. ¾ N. distant 29 miles; and from Rue Point, E. by S. distant 4 miles.
“The light is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, and is known to mariners as a “Revolving-coloured-light,” exhibiting from the same Reflector-frame a light of the natural appearance, alternating with one tinged red. These lights respectively attain their most luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, both lights become alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short time.
“The Light-room at the Point of Ayre is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land of Maughold Head towards the south, and by Rue Point towards the west. Being elevated 106 feet above the medium level of the sea, its most luminous side may be seen, like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five leagues; but the side tinged red, being somewhat obscured by the coloured shades, cannot be seen at so great a distance.”
“There are two leading lights on the Calf of Man, situate on the western side of the small island called the Calf, in north Lat. 54° 5´, and Long. 4° 46´ west of London. These two light-houses are distant from each other 560 feet. The higher light bears by compass from the Mull of Galloway, S. SW. distant 37 miles; Peelhead, in the Isle of Man, SW. distant 11 miles; Langness Point, W. by N. ½ N. distant 6 miles; and from the sunken rocks, called the Chickens, NE. ⅓ E. distant about 1¼ mile.
“These lights are from oil, each light-room being furnished with a distinct reflecting and revolving apparatus, by which they are distinguished from the other lights on the coast, and rendered useful as leading lights for passing the dangerous rocks called the Chickens. The light-house towers, as before noticed, are built at the distance of 560 feet apart, bearing from each other NE. ⅓ E. and SW. ¼ W. Consequently, to an observer, in the direction of the Chickens, both lights will appear in one, or be seen in the same line of direction, and be known to mariners as “Double-revolving and Leading-lights without colour.” These lights will respectively attain their most luminous effect at the end of every two minutes; but, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector frames, they alternately become fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short time. The two light-rooms at the Calf of Man are glazed all round, but are hid from the mariner by the high land of Peel Head towards the NE. and by Spanish Head in an eastern direction; both lights, however, will be visible at about ¼ of a mile from Langness Point. The lower light is elevated 305 feet above the medium level of the sea, and the high light 396 feet, and they will be seen like two stars of the first magnitude, at the distance of six or seven leagues, in a favourable state of the atmosphere.”
By the extension of the works of the Scotch Light-house Board to the Isle of Man, the system of the Northern Light-houses may now be said, in a general way, to extend over the whole of the coast of Scotland, while the lights of Man are of immediate importance to the extensive shipping of the coasts of England and Ireland, which bound the Irish Sea. The trade of Dublin and Newry, &c. on the one side, and of Liverpool, Lancaster, Whitehaven, and Workington, &c. on the other, find the traffic with those ports much more safe since the erection of these lights. Instead of shunning the Isle of Man, as formerly, owing to the projecting points, sunken rocks, and sand-banks connected with it, the mariner now steers boldly for this island, and takes shelter under it in stormy weather.
According to the existing acts of Parliament relative to the Northern Lights, no additional duty is exigible for any new erections of the Board, as the only part of the coast not liable, prior to the extension of the Scots Light-house Acts to the Isle of Man, was that of the Solway Firth , now also subject to the duty. These acts, however, empower the Commissioners to erect additional light-houses; and when a sufficient number shall have been exhibited on the coast, and a surplus fund provided for their maintenance, the duty on shipping is ultimately to cease, and be no longer payable. Presuming, therefore, upon the prosperity of the commerce of the country, for an increase of funds, the Commissioners, though there were large sums to pay, both in the form of interest for Government loans, and instalments for borrowed money, taking into consideration the unprotected state of the Shetland Islands, a part of their district still without the immediate benefit of light-houses, had in view to erect an additional Light-house, as soon as their funds would admit, on some of the most prominent points of that group of Islands. The winters of 1817 and 1818 having been very unfortunate to the shipping of the North Seas, and some very distressing shipwrecks having occurred at Shetland, Mr William Erskine, now Lord Kineddar, then Sheriff of the County of Orkney and Shetland, and ex officio one of the Commissioners, brought the subject again under the notice of the Board; and, in the month of January 1819, it was finally resolved that a Light-house should be erected on Sumburgh Head in Shetland, the position of which will be seen by inspecting Plate III. This work having been accordingly contracted for by Mr John Reid, builder, of Peterhead, the first stone of the building was laid on the 10th day of May 1820, and the light exhibited on the night of the 15th day of January 1821, agreeably to the following specification of the position of the house, and appearance of the light:
“Sumburgh Head Lighthouse is situate on the southern promontory of the Mainland of the Shetland Islands, in north latitude 59° 52´, and longitude 1° 15´ west of London. The Lighthouse, by compass, bears from Hangcliff-head in Noss Island SW. by W. ¼ West, distant 21 miles. From Fair Island NE. by E. ½ East, 26 miles. And from the Island of Foula, SE. by S. ¼ South, distant 28 miles. In reference to these bearings, the light is visible to the mariner from the southward, between Noss and Foula Islands. This light is known to mariners as a “Stationary light from oil with reflectors;” and being elevated 300 feet above the medium level of the sea, it is seen, like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of seven or eight leagues, and at intermediate distances, according to the state of the atmosphere.”
From the very exposed situation of the promontory of Sumburgh Head, and the great difficulty experienced in preserving the walls of light-houses in a water-tight state, the writer followed a new plan with the buildings at this station, in having made the whole of the external walls double; the masonry of the outward wall being lined with brick instead of lath-work, with a space of three inches left between the double walls. This method was of course, more expensive in the first instance, but will ultimately be much more economical, as repairs, in these remote situations, are unavoidably very expensive. This house is free of dampness, and has not admitted a single drop of water through any part of the walls during the storms of two successive winters, although the force of the wind is such, that the light-keepers, when out of doors, are frequently obliged to move upon their hands and knees, to prevent their being blown off the high land. In such states of the weather, accompanied by rain, it is hardly possible to prevent a single wall from admitting water.
The Carr forms the seaward termination of a reef of sunken rocks which appear at low-water, extending about a mile and three quarters from the shore of Fifeness, on the northern side of the entrance of the Firth of Forth. The very dangerous position of this rock, as a turning point, in the navigation of the northern-bound shipping of the Firth , will be seen from the chart of the coast, Plate IV. It seemed necessary, therefore, for the safety of navigation, that the Carr Rock, in connection with the several light-houses of the Bell Rock, Isle of May, and Inchkeith, should be made as easily distinguishable to the mariner as possible.
The author, while occupied with the works at the Bell Rock, having been often struck with the frequent and distressing occurrence of shipwreck at the Carr Rock, was induced to collect information as to the probable numbers of these wrecks; and he accordingly obtained, from persons who had good access to know, the following list of wrecked vessels, for a period of nine years prior to the commencement of the works at the Carr Rock.
| List of Shipwrecks off Fifeness, between the Years 1800 and 1809. | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Vessels’ Names. | Masters’ Names. | Descriptions. | Port belonging to. |
| Unknown. | Simpson. | Sloop. | South Ferry. |
| Martha. | Clark. | Do. | Crail. |
| Leven. | Phillip. | Do. | Leven. |
| Neptune. | Finlay. | Do. | Dundee. |
| Unknown. | Brown. | Do. | Kincardine. |
| Aurora. | Leslie. | Brig. | Arbroath. |
| Lady Charlotte. | Duncan. | Sloop. | Aberdeen. |
| Two Brothers. | Carfrae. | Brig. | Dundee. |
| Expedition. | Nicol. | Sloop. | Kincardine. |
| Isabella. | Rintoul. | Do. | Perth. |
| Unknown. | Johnston. | Do. | Do. |
| Do. | Unknown. | Do. | John’s Haven. |
| New Deer. | Banks. | Do. | Kirkaldy. |
| Unknown. | Hamson. | Galliot. | Christiansand. |
| Countess of Elgin. | Gowans. | Sloop. | John’s Haven. |
| Unknown. | Small. | Do. | South Ferry. |
By this melancholy list we find, that no fewer than sixteen vessels have, in the course of nine years, been either lost or stranded on the Carr Rocks, being almost at the rate of two wrecks in the year. From this alarming state of things, it was thought advisable to bring the subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, when the Board immediately ordered a Floating-buoy, of a large size, to be moored off the Carr. The moorings for this buoy were laid down, upon the 18th of September 1809, in 10 fathoms water, at the distance of about 200 fathoms, in a north-eastern direction, from the rock. But, owing to the heavy swell of sea, and the rocky sandstone bottom on this part of the coast, it was found hardly possible to prevent the buoy from occasionally drifting, even although it had been attached to part of the great chain, made from bar-iron, measuring 1½ inch square, with which the Bell Rock floating light had been moored for upwards of four years, without injury. The moorings of the Carr Rock-buoy, from the continual rubbing upon the sandstone bottom, were worn through with the friction in the course of ten months; and during the four years which it rode here, though regularly examined and replaced, in the proper season of the year, it was no less than five times adrift, to the great inconveniency and hazard of shipping.
Under these circumstances, the Light-house Board was induced to erect a Beacon of masonry upon the Carr Rock itself, instead of the Floating-buoy. This work was commenced in the month of June, in the year 1813, under the direction of the writer. The stone for this building was taken from an excellent sandstone quarry on the property of Lord Kellie, near the mouth of Pitmilly Burn: But, owing to the smallness of the rock, the depth of water upon it, and the exposed nature of the situation, the work was afterwards attended with very great difficulty.
The length of the Carr Rock, from south to north, measures 75 feet; but its greatest breadth, as seen at low-water of spring-tides, being only 23 feet, it was found to be impracticable to obtain a base for a building of greater diameter than 18 feet. Such also was the fractured and rugged state of the surface of this rock, that it became necessary to excavate part of the foundation-pit of the building to the depth of seven feet. The difficulties of this part of the work were also greatly increased, owing to the foundation, on the eastern side, being under the level of the lowest tides: so that it became necessary to construct a coffer-dam. Part of this coffer-dam it was necessary to remove, and carry ashore, after each tide’s work; and on the return of the workmen at ebb-tide, a considerable time was unavoidably occupied in fixing the moveable part of the coffer-dam, and in pumping the water out of the foundation-pit.