to designate the color of the various flower beds. From inexpensive cotton cloth of a solid red color cut a flag eighteen inches long and twelve inches wide; hem the raw edges; then tack one end of the flag on a slender stick one yard or more in length; sharpen the free end of the stick and push it down into the earth at the outer back corner of the flower bed intended for the red roses. Have the flag stand straight and firm. Make a white, a yellow and a pink flag in the same way. Erect each in the outer back corner of its own bed, which will be the bed where roses of corresponding color are to be planted. All the flags must be of equal height.

If the game is played at the seashore on a smooth, hard beach, mark out the flower beds by running the end of a stick along in the sand. If the game takes place on a level lawn, use white tape for marking the beds; peg the tape down to the earth with common wooden clothespins (Fig. 197), first sliding the tape in the clothespin (Fig. 198).

The Game

is that each player in turn shall plant as many roses in her own garden as she can. Every player has six roses of one color; the two holding respectively the white and the red roses are on one side, while the two with the yellow and the pink roses take the opposite side. When all is ready and the players are at their stations, a signal is given and the game begins.

The first player holds one of her roses out with the left hand, strikes it with the fan-racket held in the right hand, and endeavors to send the rose flying and land it in her own garden. If she succeeds, the rose is said to be “planted,” and scores her one point, but should the rose go beyond the boundary line of her flower bed, fall short of it, or the flour-bag of the rose be broken, the play is a “failure” and scores one point for the opposite side. When a rose falls on the boundary line of its own flower bed, the play is a “fault,” and the player may try again with the same flower. After the first player has had her turn, a player on the opposite side tries her skill, for the turns must alternate from side to side. The game ends with the playing of the last rose, and the side scoring the greatest number of points wins the game. All roses when played must remain where they fall until the close of the game, with the exception of those falling on the boundary line of their own beds.

A Tally Card

will be required for keeping a record of the game. Make one of white pasteboard (Fig. 199). The initials can be changed to those taking part in the sport. Every point scored must be written under the color and initial or name of the person who scores it. When, because of the failure of one player, the opposite side scores a point, the score must be recorded in the third column belonging to that side on the tally card under the word “Won.”

To toss for position of sides means that a player from each side shall toss a small stone toward a stick laid on the ground two yards distant from the spot where the players stand. A twig placed on the spot may mark the point from which the stones are to be tossed. The stones must be tossed in turn, not at the same time, and the player whose stone comes nearest to the mark wins the right for his side to the choice of position on the grounds, also the right of first play.

One charm of this game is that the roses when volleyed by the players invariably land on the ground blossom uppermost, and these twenty-four bright blossoms scattered over the green lawn or sandy beach, with gay, colored flags outlining the four corners of the garden court, and, best of all, the group of merry boys and girls, make a very attractive and pretty scene.

The game, though intended for four players, may also be played by either two or eight players. When only two take part, each must play the twelve roses belonging to his side; in other respects the rules are the same as in a four-handed game. When there are eight players, four must stand on each side and each player have three roses, two players necessarily playing the same color, but not in the same bed, as the garden on both sides must be divided into four beds that every player may plant roses in a separate flower bed; otherwise the original rules hold good.

“Plant Your Garden if You Can” may be adapted to the house when chill Autumn days appear and the weather grows cold and rainy. When played indoors the beds may be marked out by white tape as on the green lawn, only in this case wooden clothespins would be of no use, and thumb tacks, such as are used by artists, must take their place to fasten the tape down on a bare wooden floor, and safety-pins when the floor is carpeted.

CHAPTER XIV
JOLLY LITTLE SANTA CLAUS WITH HIS REINDEER AND SLEIGH

It would be difficult to say positively how long Santa Claus has lived, or when he first made his appearance, but we all know just how he looks,

We know that he is sure to come every Christmas, and the girls and boys look forward gladly to his visit. The little Hollanders name our Christmas Saint Santa Claus, the same as we do, though sometimes we call him Kris Kringle. In England he is both Santa Claus and St. Nicholas, in Switzerland Samiklaus, in Russia he is St. Nicholas. But no matter by what name he may be called, he is always the same, always the jolly little fellow bringing good cheer to every one. Santa Claus takes great delight in driving his tiny reindeer and sleigh full of toys over roofs of houses for the special benefit of the girls and boys he knows, and that includes all of them.

An ordinary sled (Fig. 201) will do for the foundation of

The Sleigh,

and a box for the body of the sleigh (Fig. 202) to set on the sled (Fig. 203). Find some furs to use as robes to hang over the sides and back of the sleigh; any kind will do—boas, collars, circulars or rugs. Fit them in and over the sides of the box. If you have no furs, try plush or colored blankets. Tack gay-colored paper over those portions of the box which are not concealed by the robes, and lay a small, light board over the top front of the box, resting the ends of the board on the sides of the box to make the seat on the sleigh. Cover the board with the same paper as that tacked on the box.

Make two

Reindeer

of stiff pasteboard like Fig. 204. Now, do not think you cannot make the deer because you may not be skilled in drawing, for you can do so easily. Take a large sheet of paper and draw on it an oblong forty-eight inches wide and thirty-six inches high; divide the oblong into squares measuring six inches on each of the four sides, which will give eight squares in width and six squares in height. With the aid of these squares it will be fun to copy the reindeer. Number the side lines of your oblong and letter the top and bottom lines as in Fig. 205. Examine the lower corner space of Fig. 205 enclosed by the lines A-5, and you will find the hind hoof and part of the hind leg stretching diagonally across the space. Use a soft lead-pencil and begin copying the deer by drawing a slanting fine from the extreme outward lower corner upward about one-third of the distance from the bottom to the top of the space A-5. This short slanting line forms the bottom of the hoof, the little space, enclosed between the hoof and the long toe above it reaches very nearly to the centre of the lower part of the square A-5. Make yours so. Draw the upper edge of the long toe; then run a slanting line up to the top line of the square space A-5, and make it touch the top line 5 less than one-quarter the distance from the side line A to the opposite line of the same square. Return to the lower part of the hoof already begun and draw the inside line of the hoof and portion of the leg in the same space, A-5.

In the space 4-5, immediately above the space A-5, you will perceive that only a lower corner is drawn in and that all the four squares above the square 4-5 are vacant, so continue your drawing on the bottom space A-B. The extreme upper corner of this is cut off by a short straight line; then a shallow scallop extends entirely across the upper part and runs into the third lower space B-C. If you notice closely the space enclosed by the lines 4-5, A-B, immediately over the one you have been working on, you will see that the corner on the line 4-A is vacant, while all three of the other corners are occupied by portions of the hind leg, and that the empty space extending from the vacant corner 4-A forms almost a square with two lines slightly curved and the corner diagonally across from the vacant corner 4-A, on the line 4, cut off by a short line bent bow-shaped. Draw it in the same way over the corresponding space on your paper. Look at Fig. 206, following the line on the space 4-5, A-B, and you will discover that it is the same as in Fig. 205, only smaller, and by carefully comparing the two diagrams, Fig. 205 and Fig. 206, you will find the lines are formed alike in each, differing only in size; thus you will understand how you can make your deer very much larger simply by drawing it on larger squares. Continue as you have begun, taking one square space at a time, and copy on your large squares the outline of the entire deer as given on the squares of Fig. 206.

To make sure that the deer will stand firmly, extend downward a slanting line from the top of each hoof and draw another level line out from the bottom of each hoof to meet it, according to dotted lines in Fig. 204.

Cut out your deer and with pins or thumb-tacks fasten him out flat on another large sheet of paper; then with the soft lead-pencil run a line on the paper around the deer, which will give you the second deer; outline the markings on this like those on the first deer; then cut it out. If you want six deer for Santa Claus’ sleigh make them as you did the second deer. Back each deer with very heavy, stiff pasteboard and nail a thin strip of wood on each of them. Let the wood reach from the middle of the head to the edge of the hind leg (Fig. 207). Fasten the two animals together with three narrow flat sticks tacked across from deer to deer, one stick at the centre and one on each of the two ends of the slanting strips of wood fastened on each deer. The framework will then rudely resemble an inclined ladder. Stand the reindeer in front of Santa Claus’ sleigh and see how fine they look.

To represent

Santa Claus,

make a large rag doll stuffed with straw or excelsior. It is not necessary to spend much time on making the doll, as it will be used only once, and will then be almost entirely covered, showing only the upper portion of the face for which you can mark easily with features. Make the boots (Fig. 208) like stockings of black muslin; have them long and loose enough at the ankle to form wrinkles. The trousers (Fig. 209) should be of scarlet cotton flannel, fleece side out; the coat (Fig. 210) cut of the same material; the cap (Fig. 211) of the red cloth cut melon shape, and sewed together. Santa Claus’ costume must be trimmed with bands of fur. Ermine will look best, and it is easiest to make. Cut strips of white cotton flannel and mark them with black ink to represent the little black elongated spots on real ermine. Trim the tops of the boots (Fig. 208), the neck, sleeves and edge of the coat (Fig. 210) and edge of the cap (Fig. 212) with fur. Make the wig of raw white cotton, and fasten it on the doll’s head (Fig. 213), then the beard, moustache and eyebrows also of raw cotton (Fig. 214), and glue them on the face. Paint Santa Claus’ face pink, his cheeks and the end of his nose bright red, and his eyes blue. When dressing him, bring the fur-topped boots up over the trousers (Fig. 200).

With tacks and string fasten Santa Claus in an upright sitting position on the seat of the sleigh. Tie a long, narrow red ribbon around the neck of each reindeer and pin or tie the ends of these ribbon reins on to the mitten-covered ends of the arms which form his hands. He will then seem to be gayly driving his reindeer.

wrapped in bright colored tissue paper. Any article liable to break should receive special attention. A cup and saucer (Fig. 215) is one of the most difficult articles to manage, and if you can wrap this up, properly, the wrapping of all other gifts will be easy.

Take the saucer first, place it on the centre of a piece of tissue paper (Fig. 216), fold the paper up around it, bringing the ends together at the centre (Fig. 217). Do the same with the cup (Fig. 218); then crush down the top of the paper over the saucer and set the paper-covered cup on it (Fig. 219). Now place the two on more paper and wrap up both together (Fig. 220).

If there are not enough gifts to fill the box of the sleigh, open newspapers and crush them into the bottom of the box to fill up the extra space; spread white paper over the top of the newspapers, and fill in with the prettily wrapped gifts. Each parcel should be tied with a ribbon and decorated with holly, mistletoe or evergreen (Fig. 220). Cover the top of the paper parcels with various toys (Fig. 200), and Santa Claus with sleigh and reindeer will be ready to surprise the family early Christmas morning.

Try to have as many home-made gifts in the sleigh as possible.

Your Christmas Cards

can be plain white pieces of cardboard decorated with the head of Santa Claus made of an almond on which is inked a face; the long hair and beard of refined white cotton being glued on the nut and a red peaked cap fastened on the top of the head; this makes a fine Santa Claus. The head should be glued on the left side of the card, and on the blank portion should be inscribed the greeting, “Merry Christmas.”

CHAPTER XV
A LIVING CHRISTMAS TREE

You can keep the preparation of the living tree absolutely secret and make it a complete surprise, for it does not have to be set up where all may see in order to be decorated, and no hint of its existence need be given until the time arrives, the door is thrown open and the beautiful, sparkling Christmas tree glides slowly into the room.

How to Prepare the Living Christmas Tree.

Choose quite a tall girl for the angel of the tree and from dark green, undressed cambric cut a long, plain cloak that will fit smoothly over her shoulders and hang like an inverted cornucopia from neck to feet.

out of stiff brown paper, cutting it like Fig. 221, and pasting it together like Fig. 222. Cover the hat with some of the green cambric, allowing a cape of the material to fall from hat to shoulders at the back (Fig. 223). Get three or four quires of moss-green tissue paper, cut it into strips six inches wide and cut each strip into rather coarse fringe, leaving a solid strip for heading at the top, two inches wide. Beginning at the bottom sew the fringe around the cloak, allowing it to reach just to the edge of the cloth.

Pin the fronts together, leaving an opening only large enough to slip over the head.

Now suspend the cloak on a waisthanger in such a way that you can reach it from all sides, and proceed

To Decorate

CHAPTER XVI
HOW TO GET UP A GIRLS’ FAIR

Form a Managing Committee

When the question of place has been settled to the satisfaction of all, make out a list of the various girls and boys who will help with the entertainment, and divide the list into as many parts as there are young people on your managing committee, including yourself. Give each member of the committee his or her portion of the list, with instructions to see every person whose name is on the paper and find out what each particular one will promise to make for the fair. Do not confine the soliciting to young people of your own little circle, ask for contributions from all the girls and boys your managing committee are able to reach. Some may want to make several articles each, others may wish to do the decorating, and so on. Space must be provided on the list of names for writing down under each name the articles promised (Fig. 224).

Let each contributor understand that every article sent in must have the name, age, and address of the sender written in ink and fastened securely on each separate article, that every girl and boy may receive full credit for what she or he has made (Fig. 225).

In addition to the attractive booths you should have the ever popular grab-bag and the

will be just the thing.

Take an ordinary wooden tub (Fig. 226), cover the outside with gay tissue paper laid on in flat plaits from top to bottom. Paste the paper along the inside of the top edge, carry it over on the outside down under the bottom edge. Cover the handles with the same paper, and fasten ribbon bows on the outside of the handles (Fig. 227). If the tub is covered with pink tissue paper, tack pink ribbons on the handles; if red paper is used fasten green on the handles.

Fill the bottom of the tub with large, lightly crushed pieces of newspaper, cover these with a double layer of smooth paper, leaving sufficient space at the top for a layer of sawdust, bran or sand, deep enough to cover the different sized articles intended for the grab-bag. Each separate article must be wrapped in paper and tied with a string (Fig. 228).

Make as many

Blackbirds

as you can place conveniently, without too much crowding, on top of the pie.

Use medium stiff cardboard or smooth water color paper, not too limber, for the birds. Cut them from an enlarged pattern of Fig. 229, as the birds must be life-size. Paint or ink the bird black on both sides and, when it is dry, bend up the tail in a curve. Bend up the neck at dotted line of Fig. 229. Pinch together the beak and bend it downward, bringing the head forward at dotted line of Fig. 229. Turn up the wings according to dotted lines on Fig. 229, and curve them over and outward at the top (Fig. 230). Puncture two holes in the back of the bird at the dots A and B (Fig. 229).

There must be a handle for lifting the blackbirds; make it of a hairpin. Bend one end of a wire hairpin into a square hook (Fig. 231) and slide the longer end up through the foremost hole on the underside of the bird; tie the centre of a string, nine inches long, on the horizontal bend of the hooked end of the hairpin; then push the short end of the hook up through the other hole in the bird, bringing the string up close against the bird’s breast. Bend the short end of the hairpin down on the bird’s back and flatten it with a hammer. Curve the top of the hairpin into a handle (Fig. 232) and fasten the hooked end of the hairpin more securely to the breast and back of the bird by pasting a piece of paper over the short portion of the hairpin lying over the back (Fig. 233). Push the paper up tight around the edge of the wire. Paste another piece of paper over the short length of hairpin on the bird’s breast in the same manner (Fig. 234).

Set the blackbird away until next day, when it will be perfectly dry, and you will find the hairpin secure in its place, standing straight and steady.

Tie the two ends of the string together into a hard knot; then bend one half of another wire hairpin into a hook (Fig. 235) and fasten it securely on the string at the end of the loop; twist the long handle of the hairpin hook (Fig. 235) around and over the string, as shown in Fig. 236.

Instead of making one complete blackbird at a time, it will be much quicker and easier to make a pattern and cut out all your blackbirds first; then ink or paint them all, and continue working on them in this way until all are finished about the same time. It will not take long when once you have the pattern enlarged, and you can make the pattern the proper size by the system of squares, large and small, as explained in Chapter XIV.

(Fig. 237), and hide the parcel and string down under the sawdust, resting the bird on top of the pie; then when any one wants to purchase a “grab” let him lift any bird he chooses from the pie by means of the hairpin in the bird’s back.

The girl or boy in charge must take the parcel from the hook, give it to the purchaser, quickly slide another package on the hook and sink it down in the pie in place of the first one. While the purchaser is left entirely free to choose, she should take care not to disarrange the packages in the pie.