First cut a piece nineteen inches long by sixteen wide, and bend it round, forming a cylinder five inches in diameter; the lap must be closely riveted, and then the two ends hammered out into a flange outwards, leaving the body of boiler seventeen inches long, as in Fig. 30; B is the shape of piece to be next riveted on at after end, then take another sheet nine inches wide, and hammer a half-inch flange round it so as to fit over the dotted line in A.

Then rivet them firmly together, and also another piece in after end.

It will now have the appearance of Fig. 31, and should be four and a half inches deep from A to B, and forming a copper box six inches wide from B to C, and eight inches from C to D.

Then rivet together another box to form the inner casing four and a half inches wide by six and a half inches long and nine inches deep.

The bottom of this must be hammered outwards to the dimensions of BC CD, as shown in section Fig. 32 at AA. A hole is next to be cut out in the centre of rear plate, and also the rear part of inner casing which comes opposite to it, and one three-quarter inches by two and a half, forming an elliptical opening for the furnace door.

A casting of that shape and three-quarters of an inch thick, which is the distance between the inner and outer casing BC, must be procured and drilled with holes every three-eighths of an inch, and firmly riveted in position, as shown in section at D.

Two pins or lugs (FF) should project on either side of the inner surface to support the fire-bars and ash-pan, and the bars should be made of cast-iron, and small enough to be got out easily by tilting up one side, and the bars ought to run lengthways of the engine.

You next require some hard-drawn brass tubing three-quarters of an inch diameter, and must cut the pieces slightly over seventeen inches long, then drill ten holes in the inner plate as at E (Fig. 32), and in the position and arrangement shown in Fig. 33. These tubes should have a wire ring brazed on about a quarter of an inch from either end, and then being placed in their respective holes in tube plate, the projecting portion is to be beaded back with a flange, or you can fit them in as described previously (Fig. 16) by each being double-screwed and nutted. These tubes allow the smoke and flame to pass through from the furnace to the smoke-box (M Fig. 20), and so away up the chimney, and by the large surface they expose to the fire, help to raise steam very quickly.

If you just add together the combined surfaces of these tubes, you will find there is more than two square feet of surface exposed and acted on by the fire, which enables the boiler, although small, to make steam rapidly. In some large engines three hundred tubes are fitted. The steam supply-pipe and regulating lever-handle should now be made and placed in position, and Fig. 34 shows the shape to make it.

A B are the front and rear plates of boiler, C is the supply pipe, bent with a screw end downwards after passing plate A, and then upwards into steam-dome, where it should be securely fastened by a cross-piece; D is the tap or valve, which can be turned on or off from the foot plate by means of the long rod F, ending in lever-handle G.

The rod must be fitted with a stuffing-box, the same as those used on the cylinders, and packed with cotton to prevent loss of steam by leakage; and when this is all firmly fixed, the forward end of the boiler can be furnished with tube-plate, riveted on and the tubes flanged over.

You should now take the boiler to a practical brazier and have it properly hard-brazed in every join and round each tube, and you might cut the hole for steam-dome and have it brazed on at the same time. If this is properly done you never need be in fear when the water runs low, as the boiler might get almost red-hot without injuring it much. Of course it is not advisable, as it would blister and spoil the appearance of the paint outside. This is a good opportunity to test the boiler before fitting it up, and you should fill it with water through a hole drilled in top of dome, and then fix on the test-pump, which you could borrow from any engineering-shop. If too far away from town to do that, you must make use of the force-pump attached to your model, and work it by hand, watching the pressure-gauge in the meanwhile. Test it to 100 lb. per square inch, which will be sufficient, as 50 lb. will be a fair working pressure. Should you have to test it with your own pump, the pressure-gauge will have to be bought then, as that is an article you cannot make yourself. A small gauge of Bourdon’s make, of an inch and a half diameter, will cost about twenty-five shillings, and although it may seem a rather high price for such a small thing, it is absolutely necessary to have it, as you could not tell what dangerous pressure you had raised in the boiler without it.

This being done, proceed to make the smoke-box, which should be three inches deep, and of the same shape and dimensions shown in Fig. 35. This and the chimney can be made of iron, hammered up to shape and finished with a brass ring. The smoke-box can be screwed to the forward flange on boiler. The door is drawn open to show the amount of bulge it should be hammered to.

In the centre a hole should be drilled through which to pass the screw used to close it, which is attached to the loose bar A. The handle B is then screwed up tight.

The door is circular and must be large enough to overlap the opening about half an inch, and have a couple of bright iron or brass eyes (C) riveted on to form the hinge.

We can now make the back pressure-valve (Fig. 36). A is a front view, with plate by which it is bolted on to boiler, as at W (Fig. 20).

It is very simple to make, and consists of the casting A with the top and bottom covers, and the ball-valve B, which ought to be ground with a little emery-and-oil to fit perfectly. It acts in this manner. The water being forced up C from the pump, raises B and passes into the boiler. On the up-stroke of pump the pressure is removed from under B, and pressure of steam in boiler causes it to fall back and close opening entirely, preventing any water passing away from boiler. A small flange can be put on each outer side of boiler near furnace to support it on bed-plate level with smoke-box.

The boiler should now have a coating of flannel, cut to shape and wrapped round the body part, and a casing of sheet tin put over it and secured by brass bands, and small nuts underneath, as shown in Fig. 20.

The steam supply-pipe can now be connected with the cylinders, and it should be made forked, as in Fig. 37. A leads from steam-pipe, and branches off to each cylinder, where it must be screwed up with white lead.

The exhaust-pipes (B B) should be of larger tubing, and bent round up the sides of smoke-box, so as to be out of the way when you require to clean the tubes. A small brass pipe (C) must also be passed through chimney, and bent upwards and fitted with tap, which should take steam from top of boiler, and be used as shown at D and F (Fig. 20). This helps to raise steam very quickly.

Fig. 38 is a rear view of the foot-plate, and shows the necessary fittings you must either make or buy to complete the model. The cocks you can manage easily, but the water-gauge is beyond most amateurs’ skill to turn out satisfactorily. A is the furnace-door, B two gauge-taps, C starting lever-handle, D spring-balance safety-valve, F wind-guard (with two look-out hobs), G steam-whistle handle, H pressure-gauge, K steam-blast handle, M glass water-gauge, N the quadrant and-lever for reversing the engine, O the rear buffer beam (with buffers), P the wheels showing axle, R R the springs for same, and V is the safety-guard rail on either side.

When these fittings are made, holes must be drilled in rear-plate for each, and then firmly screwed in place with white-lead: and the glass tube in water-gauge and the stuffing-box in gland of starting-lever should be packed with tallow and cotton wick.

The entire engine can now have another coat of paint.

The smoke-box chimney and rear-plate should be black, and the body any colour, according to fancy, leaving the brass bands bright.

When lined and quite dry it should have a coat of the best hard, clear varnish, and again be allowed to dry thoroughly before using it, which by this time, I have no doubt, you are anxious to do. Whilst it is drying you will have time to make the lines for it. And you should get some square bar-iron, cut it into six-foot lengths, if you wish the lines to be portable, and drill a hole in each end half an inch deep. They then can be joined end to end by a wire, pin, or plug.

The lines must be kept at a proper distance apart by being secured to pieces of wood placed transversely underneath by screws passing through holes drilled in the rails at about every six inches. You can then lay them down end to end and form a long line. If you want a circular line, each section must be bent to a portion of a circle; one of about thirty feet diameter is suitable for this model.

When finished, place the locomotive on them and get up steam. Fill the boiler with water by means of a funnel until you see it rise up three parts of the way in the glass water-gauge. Then see that all taps are turned off and light the fire. Charcoal forms the best fuel to use, as it gives a clear, hot fire, without smoke.

Try occasionally if you have any steam by lifting safety-valve, and when there is any turn on the blast-tap, which will soon draw up the fire, and you will presently see the pressure rise, and be indicated in the pressure-gauge.

When showing 30 lbs. of steam you might start her, turning on the cocks on cylinders until no more condensed steam issues from them. Then shut them off and turn on steam full power, and watch your model travel, gradually increasing its speed; and I hope you will have many pleasant hours’ enjoyment in running your locomotive and showing its action to your friends, which will well repay you for the time spent in building it.

SECTION III.
GAMES OF SKILL, ETC.

CHAPTER XII.—CHESS—SINGLE AND DOUBLE, ETC.

I.—Chess for Beginners.—By Herr Meyer.

THE UNIVERSAL NOTATION.

Problem No. 1.—By Herr Meyer.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The Endings of Games.

Beginners sometimes are apt to capture a superior man for an inferior one, and thereby forget the danger in which they leave their K, as the following moves show:—

White threatened O c6†. If the N d6 had taken the O e5, White would have lost the M a1 for the O c2, but have won the O f6 for a P.

If O a6, then O a4. The position is now interesting. If White would try L b6; then Black would win by N e5:. White should now play O c6:† and then P f4, but forgetting the danger at h2, plays

The P d4 ought to have taken the N e5. The position is now—

Black to play and mate in six (6) moves.

Solution.

The Endings of Games.

The following diagram illustrates a mate in three moves, which the beginner should learn early, and which is obtained from the original position of the thirty-two pieces by the following eleven moves:—

White to play and mate in three (3) moves.

Solution.

Problem No. 2.—By G. Chocholous.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The Endings of Games.

In the last two games we gave the first move to White, but will now give it to Black, and show another series of moves, which lead to a pretty termination.

It is better for White to take with the P than with the N, for the M h1 can move to g1, and occupy the important g file, in which the black K stands.

White is now tempting Black to give the check with the O.

White to play and mate in four (4) moves.

Solution.

Problem No. 3.—By W. Furnival.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

Problem No. 4.—By H. F. I. Meyer.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The Endings of Games.

The following is the termination of a game played by Adolph Anderssen:—

White to play and mate in five (5) moves.

Solution.

Solutions.

Problem No. 1.—1, P e8 O, any of four moves. 2, O d6 or f6, mate, accordingly.

Problem No. 2.—1, K c5, K g2: (or, Q, R, S, T, U). 2, L f3:‡.—(Q) O g1. 2, O g3‡.—(R) O h2. 2, O f2‡.—(S) O d2 or e1. 2, L h7‡.—(T) O g5 or h4. 2, L b1‡.—(U) O d4 or e5. 2, L b1 or h7‡.

Problem No. 5.

White: K a6; L f5; M a5, h1; N g1, h5; O b8, d1; P b2, c2, d5, g6, h3. Black: K c4; L g8; M h4; N f1; O a3; P a4, b4, b6, g2. (13 + 9 = 22 pieces.) White gives mate in two moves.

Problem No 6.

White: K b7; L f4; M d8; N a2; P a3, e5. Black: K c5; M h5; N f7, g1; O a8; P a5, b5, c2, c7. (6 + 9 = 15 pieces.) White gives mate in two moves.

Problem No. 7.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

Problem No. 8.—By G. Hume.

White to play and mate in two (2) moves.

The following game was played, and the mate in eight moves announced by H. F. L. Meyer.

White wins a P, but the move is really a bad one. He ought to have played K g1 M f1.

The K could not well move to f1, for the O would have checked at e3, and then taken the L.

The N might have moved to f4, but then the black L would have taken the P g2, and won. Indeed, White’s game is hopeless, as the following diagram and the solution show:—

Black to play and mate in eight (8) moves.

Solution.

If K d3, the mate follows in three more moves by L e3:, O b6, and P c5.

General Remarks on Games.

The openings and endings of games, which we have already explained, will assist a beginner in understanding the following observations.

Begin by moving the centre P’s (in the e and d, and also in the c and f files), then move the N’s to the fourth, third, or fifth squares, and the O’s to the third or second squares in the central files. Do not play the L too soon. Place the men so that they protect one another, that they guard the K, and that they can easily attack the opponent’s men, especially the K. Always look out that your K is safe against checks, or, at any rate, against any that would be hurtful. Especially watch the vulnerable points f1 and f7. Do not play your K out early in the game, but try to move it together with one of the M’s, especially on the K’s side, in order that your officers may have freedom of action, and then you will in most cases do well to let the g and h P’s remain in their places. When, however, most of the officers (especially the L and the two N’s) have been exchanged, then you must generally bring your K forward to support your P’s, etc. Sometimes you can be patient with the KM movement, namely, wait for a favourable opportunity to perform it on the right or left. Move the long way when your opponent has taken the short one, and you are able to attack him with your officers and pawns. In rare cases you move your K freely into the second row, mostly to f2 (or, if black, to f7), and this especially for the purpose of uniting your two M’s.

Do not give check unless you see the necessity for it. Give an early check if thereby you can force the K to move and thus prevent the KM movement. Be mindful of discovered checks, in which, besides the L and the M, the N is often active.

When you see a good move try to discover a still better one.

Generally keep the L so that it may not be pinned by an M or an N, or be attacked when an O checks.

In covering a check from an N or an M it is in most cases best to interpose a piece of the same kind in order to prevent the piece being pinned for a long time: but when the L checks, then you should interpose your L only, when you cannot well attack it by interposing an inferior piece, or when you cannot protect yourself with an O.

Try to attack two or three men at once in order to capture one; by doing so endeavour especially to make an attack upon the two principal pieces, the K and the L. The fittest pieces for this are the L and the O, and sometimes the M.

Let your P’s protect one another, use them for attacking the officers, try to get them into open files, and avoid doubling them. Push them forward on the side on which your opponent has placed his K, unless you have your K on the same side and wish to keep it safe against checks. Sometimes you can with safety place your K before an adverse P.

Try to get an open file for your M’s, and according to circumstances to move one or both into your opponent’s second row. Moving both into one file or row is called doubling them. Try to clear your P’s away in those files in which you can attack the K with your M’s. When you advance a P, consider if your opponent will take it with his P or push his on.

Do not exchange pieces unless you obtain an advantage by doing it, but when you have an advantage, then do it as often as possible. Sometimes you can with advantage give an M for an N or an O.

If one of your men is attacked and you cannot defend it, then try to make a counter-attack, and always consider the subsequent moves. Do not always take a piece which is offered to you, but consider the consequences.

If your L and another officer (M, N, or O) be attacked, and you can save the former but not the latter, then you will do well, if you can, to give the L for two minor officers, and then save your officer.

When you have a passed P, try to preserve it and to protect it by P’s. A P in the sixth or seventh row well supported is generally worth an officer.

Towards the end of the game you must use your K as an attacking officer. Keep it from an adverse O, so that it cannot easily be checked—that is, so that it stands in the same diagonal with one square intervening.

When each of you is left with an N and two or three P’s, then the game, as a rule, is easily drawn if the N’s stand on squares of different colours. Your K should generally be kept on a square of a different colour from that on which the adverse N stands. Let your P’s and N protect one another if you are afraid of losing, but keep the P’s on squares of a different colour when you wish to prevent the adverse K from coming near them.

Do not exchange an N for an O indiscriminately, for an N can impede the march of P’s more readily than an O. And when the major officers are off, remember that two N’s are stronger than an N and an O, or two O’s. Prevent an isolation and doubling of your P’s, for two of them protect each other against the K if the topmost is a passed one and no officer left. You can often give your last officer for one or two P’s, for these latter may win, whilst a minor officer very rarely can. Two P’s in the sixth row win, in most cases, against an M.

Lastly, when you are about to give mate, be mindful of stalemate.

II.—A New Chess Game.
‘The Jubilee.’—By Herr Meyer.

Each of the two players places alternately one of his sixteen men, beginning with the K, upon any square of his first three rows. The two N’s may, if preferred, be placed on the same colour. A check within the first sixteen moves must immediately be covered, and should it not be possible to cover, then the player checked has lost the game. When all the men are placed, then the moving and taking begin, the player whose turn it is to play having the move. The K M move, that is, castling, is not permitted. The pawns move, and take in passing. A white P in the first row, or a black P in the eighth row, can start by moving one, two, or three squares, or such a P may first move one square and afterwards one or two squares, but in his adversary’s territory only one square at a time. When moving two or three squares it can be taken in passing. A black P on g 8 moving to g 5 can be taken by white P’s standing on f5, f6, h5, or h6. When a P reaches the last square, then the player promotes it and chooses any one of the seven officers which is not on the board, but when all the officers are on, then it remains a P for ever.

The letters from K to P are used for the six kinds of pieces, thus:—

The first game of this kind was played in June, 1887, between H. F. L. Meyer (White) and J. Swyer (Black). It is a so-called diagonal game, because the K’s are placed diagonally opposite one another (on h1 and a8); it would have been a straight game if the black K had been placed on h8. Both players surrounded their K’s with the P’s, and thus made sure to be safe against checks for a long time. The moves are the following:—

The men are now placed thus:—

Notes.

(a) Black thought he might give the M for the O, and work the P’s through.

(b) He loses time in moving the O’s. He ought to have prevented the attack on the P b7.

(c) It is now useless to defend b7, for if M d7, then M e8:, and if L f7, then M e7.

III.—Another Jubilee Game.
Played on Jubilee Day.

The two players, same as last mentioned, agree to play a so-called Pyramid Game, that is, to place the Kings on e1 and e8, and to place the eight Pawns around each in the shape of a pyramid. After these nine moves they proceeded to place the remaining officers as follows:—

The board now presents the following appearance:—