Round the slide runs a wooden border half an inch wide and three-eighths of an inch thick. The right-hand part of the slide is wood, the left glass, and the moving part showing towards us is also of glass, and fits into a circular wooden ring that is kept in position as it turns by the two tiny buttons on each side of it. One of these buttons works on the frame, the other is fastened to a piece of wood glued on to the wooden part of the slide. Farther to the right is a small silk reel, into which a handle is fixed, and an endless band from the reel round the circle in the buttons completes the machinery. All this is simple enough, and as it has already been described need not be gone into in detail.

The question with us now is how to apply this contrivance to the working of a chromatrope. A chromatrope is a lantern slide consisting of two or more pieces so painted as to give the effect on the screen of a set piece of fireworks. It is the easiest of all slides to paint, as it is purely geometrical, and the colours used require no mixing, but can be put on at once as they are got from the shop. And, best of all, the effects produced are far and away more brilliant than anything else in lantern practice.

The essentials are a fixed slide of some bold design—star-shaped, circular, octagonal, or what not—and a moving shade that is of spiral pattern. The spiral pattern is the secret of the whole thing. Let the above be spun behind a star, so as to be only visible through its rays, and the star will seem to be alive. Turn it one way, the waves flow outwards; turn it the other, the waves flow inwards. The standing pattern must have a centre, and the spiral must be worked on the same centre. That done, all is well. Sometimes a double spiral is desirable, and then the pattern in Fig. 3 is adopted. By it the outer part of the pattern (B) will seem to flow in a different direction from the inner (A). Paint the spirals any colours you please, providing that they are bright, and you get the results. Let reverse spirals appear in your fixed pattern, and you improve the effect. Have two revolving rings worked by the same wheel, one over the other, and the whole device will glow with life and brilliancy.

To begin modestly, take some simple design, such as that of the fountain in Fig. 4. Paint it on your slide, and stop it out all round with asphaltum or any dense black. Then fix to it a simple spiral disk, such as that given in Fig. 2, and the instant the spiral spins the water will begin to flow.

In all designs remember that the fixed slide must be broken up with black and colour, so as not to show the whole of the spiral at once. The wave should, as it were, sweep over the windows. For front designs nothing is superior to a good knighthood star.

The colours for slide-painting can either be bought ready prepared, or ground down on plate glass and mixed by Canada balsam or mastic varnish. Should the balsam be too thick, use a little turpentine. The clearest colours are lampblack, burnt umber, burnt sienna, raw sienna, gamboge, Prussian blue, verdigris, and scarlet lake, and these are put on in the ordinary way. Before you begin clean the glass carefully with a little water and ammonia. Copy the design through the glass, and it would be as well not to forget that unless you can draw properly on paper you are not likely to do so on a lantern slide, where in the intense light and enlargement every mistake and shakiness of line is exaggerated for the benefit of the spectators. For those who cannot draw, figures of men and animals can be cut out with scissors and pasted on the slide, so as to give a shadow entertainment, as a change from the bought slides. Others can buy transparencies and stick them on for themselves, but the result will never equal hand-painting. One more caution before leaving hand-painting, and that is, do not be in a hurry, and give your slides at least a fortnight to dry.

If the spaces of the chromatrope are too narrow, or the design is worked too fast, you will only produce a fog, just as you do when you spin a toothed wheel. If, however, the teeth of the two wheels be fixed on the slant and the wheels turned in opposite directions, the teeth will be visible—upright if the teeth slant the way the wheel turns, slanting if they follow the course of the wheel. The principle holds good with the chromatrope; the spiral is but a toothed wheel.

The chromatrope was invented by Mr. W. Allen. He called it the pyreidotrope. It was improved, and soon became known as Chinese fireworks. From it the paper fireworks still popular in some circles were derived.

Paper fireworks are merely large chromatropes painted on oiled paper instead of on glass, and lighted by candles instead of a lantern. The wheels, and stars, and plumes, and pyramids are just the same as we have been describing, only much larger. The transparent portions are got by perforations. The machinery is the same, but of a rougher pattern, and the moving parts, instead of reels and bobbins, are barrel-hoops and butter-tubs. From what has been said above, their construction is sufficiently obvious, and we conclude with a design (Fig. 5) that may serve for either purpose.

II.—The Lantern and The Kaleidoscope.

Have our readers ever tried to work these together? If not, let them do so, and they will be rather surprised at the results. Begin in a small way, and treat the screen as the broad end of the kaleidoscope. Arrange it at an angle to the audience. Against it place two mirrors at the desired angle, just as in the well-known instrument, and then damp the screen and throw the image on from behind, so that it will take the place of the usual coloured fragments.

Chromatropes can be made in this way by devising a double slide, and filling up the space between the two sides with stained splinters of glass, beads, etc.; and this contrivance put into the lantern, and its image thrown on to the screen between the mirrors, will be multiplied into the most brilliant geometrical fireworks, whose pattern can be varied as often as desired by simply shaking the glass slide, so as to rearrange the coloured odds and ends. If the slide is a mechanical chromatrope, of course so much the better, as instead of one image of it there are many. Modifications of this experiment will easily suggest themselves to an ingenious lad.

III.—The Lantern Praxinoscope.

Yet another praxinoscope, and a remarkable one. M. Reynaud is the inventor, and may well be proud of his ingenious combination. The sketch is so clear and complete that but little explanation is necessary. In the first place, there is a magic-lantern; in the drawing it is of the lampascope pattern, in which, by means of openings at top and bottom fitted with a sheath, an ordinary lamp can be used, if necessary, instead of the usual light, the chimney of the lamp being hidden by the top scabbard, and the beam that would illuminate the room being checked by the cap on the top of it. Any lantern can be altered so as to suit this arrangement, but the balance must be kept, and there must be no top-heaviness, so as to upset the lamp, and the under-sheath must be of the right length, so as to bring the centre of the flame opposite the centre of the lens. Any ordinary lantern with an ordinary lamp will, however, answer every purpose.

In the side of the lantern an aperture is cut, and around it is fixed a small triangular box containing a mirror set at an angle of forty-five degrees, and having a lens, in the base, of a very low power, or hardly any power at all. At the top of this side-box is fixed an adjustable lens of the same type as that in front of the lantern. In the lantern itself is placed a slide representing a landscape, an interior, etc., and the image of this is thrown on to the screen. At the back of the side-box is placed a praxinoscope of novel construction, and the images from it are thrown on to the sheet through the lens at its top, so that, as in a dissolving view, we have the picture seen by the assembly built up out of the slides.

The praxinoscope consists of a crown of mirrors sloping inwards, surrounded by a ring constructed to take a set of glass slides mounted in a strip by means of connecting links of silk or calico. The slides consist each of one of the figures alluded to in the last section, which form the series of instantaneous photographs that have revolutionised our ideas of the details of motion. They are, in fact, zoetropic pictures, each differing but slightly in attitude from the other, and each representing one of the changes assumed in a complete round of some definite movement.

The slides are slipped into the ring. The light from the lantern shining through the glass throws the images on to the praxinoscopic mirror, and thence it is reflected through the top lens on to the screen. The ring and crown are arranged at the angles given in the cut, and when the slides are revolved by means of the band and pulley shown below them, the different pictures as they pass the lens are reflected on to the background, and the figure appears in lifelike movement.

The lantern praxinoscope thus makes the zoetropic effects visible to a large assembly seated at their ease, and gives pictures of heroic size instead of the tiny proportions with which, when confined to the ordinary instrument, we are forced to be content. Many modifications of the arrangement will readily suggest themselves to our readers, and need not therefore be specially described.

SECTION V.
HOW TO BUILD BOATS, PUNTS, CANOES, ETC.

CHAPTER XXIII.—THE BUILDING OF THE SWALLOW; OR, HOW TO MAKE A BOAT.
By E. Henry Davies, C.E.

Until recently I was among the number of those who, though fond of boating, are not able to gratify their taste on account of not possessing a boat, or finding it convenient or possible to hire one.

Well, while walking one fine spring morning along the canal-side, the longing to be on its surface in a boat of my own became irresistible, and so, not having sufficient spare money to buy, I there and then determined to build, and I now purpose telling how I did so, and giving all particulars as to time and cost.

The engraving (Fig. 1) is a reproduction from a photograph of the Swallow, as she appeared when on her first trial-trip. Since the taking of the photograph I have spent many a pleasant, quickly-flying hour in her, either sailing by myself or rowing with a couple of friends along the waters of a stream which runs clear and slowly among some of the finest scenery on the North Wales border.

In the first place, let me give a general description of the boat, with the totals of time and cost. She is 12 ft. long, 2 ft. 9 in. broad amidships inside, and 1 ft. 1¹⁄₂ in. deep inside; of the same shape as an ordinary boat, but made after the style of a coracle, with a light wood framing, covered over on the outside with stout sailcloth, coated with three coats of paint to make it watertight. The total cost to me was £2 1s. 6d., in addition to which I paid 5s. for a year’s licence to keep my boat on the canal. The amount of time spent in building, painting, and rigging was 140 hours, which was extended over two months, owing to my not being able to keep constantly at work; and this, I should think, would be the average time for any one working by himself.

A certain amount of skill in carpentry is, of course, needed, as well as a few tools, but almost as essential as these is a large stock of patience and a firm resolution to succeed.

Fig. 2 enlarged (41 kB)

The first thing to be done is to make the inner keel, or keelson (a b of Fig. 2). This can be made of deal, and should be planed perfectly straight. Its greatest length is 10 ft. 10¹⁄₂ in. on the upper side; its breadth is 1 in., and thickness 1¹⁄₂ in. The bow end is to be cut off square, and the stern to be cut to a level of 7 in. in a foot, or an angle of 120 degrees from the horizontal. Commencing at 11 in. from the bow end, on the upper side, bore a hole three-eighths of an inch in diameter straight through, and countersink it on the upper side; then make nine more holes of the same size at distances of one foot apart. These are the holes through which strong screws 3 in. long will be driven, in order to bind together, after the canvas is put on, the keelson (a b) and the keel (A B).

The stem piece (C, Fig. 2) should be made of oak, and of the shape shown in the figure, which is drawn to a scale of three-eighths of an inch to a foot. The curve is 9 in. radius, and the total depth 1 ft. 3 in. One strong screw, driven through the inner keel, or keelson (a b), at the point C¹, will be sufficient to secure it, as, when the keel is screwed on, another screw at C² will give it the necessary strength to resist shocks and blows.

The stern piece is formed of two parts (D and E, Figs. 2 and 3), both of which should be made of oak three-quarters of an inch thick. The angle of the bevel of the stem is 120 degrees, or 7 in. in a foot, and when the stern pieces are fixed in their places on the keel, the slope should be in one line, and the piece E perfectly at right angles to the keel. D is fixed to the keelson by two strong screws at d and d². The width of the transom, or stem piece, E, is at the top 2 ft., and its depth 10 in. As, of course, the outline is the same on either side of the centre line, it will only be necessary for me to describe the shape of one side.

Beginning, then, at the top on the left-hand side of Fig. 3, the outline runs straight for 3 in., sloping inwards at a level of 1 in 3. After this it follows a curve of 6 in. radius, having its centre at e³, until at e⁵ the curve again bends outwards at the same radius, and with its centre at e⁶ following this curve to the bottom of the piece, where, at 10 in. from the top, the width between the two outlines will be three-quarters of an inch, or the same as the thickness of D.

Before screwing these two pieces together eight notches must be cut in the transom (E) for the reception of the ends of the laths, four on each side of the centre line. As, in the course of the construction of the boat, notches will several times have to be cut, with intervals of untouched wood, it will be advisable at the first to fix upon some method by which such notches and spaces may be described. Let, therefore, the spaces to be cut out for notches be enclosed in brackets thus: (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₂ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) the figures representing the breadth of the notch in inches, while the spaces between the notches are represented by the unenclosed figures.

The notches are throughout ¹⁄₄ in. deep; those in the transom (E) are, owing to the level of the stern, not straight across the wood, and must be marked out with the bevel, not the square.

Commencing then at the top left-hand corner of the transom (E) at the point e⁶ on Fig. 3, we have the notches to be cut as follows: (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₂ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₂ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₂ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 3 in., or four notches and four spaces, the same having, of course, to be cut in the same order on the other side.

The transom (E) is sunk into the stem piece (D), as shown in Fig. 2, and secured at right angles to it by two screws at e¹ and e². The whole stem piece can now be fixed to the keelson (a b) by two strong screws at the points d and d², Fig. 2.

The next part requiring attention is the amidships (section F of Figs. 2 and 4; see also Fig. 8); this can be made of deal ⁷⁄₈ in. thick, 2 ft. 9 in. wide at the top, and 1 ft. 3 in. deep. The outline beginning at f¹ is for 6 in. straight and at right angles to a line drawn across the boat, then it follows a curve of 7 in. radius whose centre is at f² to the point f³, which is 1 ft. 1¹⁄₂ in. below the top and 1 ft. from the centre line: from this point the outline runs straight until it joins the centre line at 1 ft. 3 in. from the top. A mortise 1 in. wide and 1¹⁄₂ in. deep must be cut in the centre of this section at the bottom, in order that it may fit accurately over the keelson and at right angles to it, in which place it is fastened by a strong screw passing through the keelson from beneath. As its name implies, this section must be exactly amidships.

The notches and spaces are, beginning at f¹, (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2³⁄₄ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2³⁄₄ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2³⁄₈ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2³⁄₈ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2⁷⁄₈ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2³⁄₄ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₄ in. mortise for keelson in centre. The other side is the same.

The middle of this section is cut out for the sake of lightness, as shown in Fig. 4, and a seat 7 in. wide, and 4 in. from the top, is fixed across it.

Under the centre of the seat an upright support (f⁴) is fixed, of the same width as the seat, being also made to fit over the piece F and rest on the keel.

The seat must be screwed firmly into its place, so that the future rower may feel himself in no danger of being precipitated to the bottom of his boat among the débris of a broken seat.

There will be two more sections required, somewhat similar to the amidships one, placed at distances of 3 ft. on either side of it. We will first take the one shown as section G H in Fig. 5, which is a section along the line G H of the plan Fig. 8; which appears on page 271.

This can be made in two ways—either the same as the amidships one, in a single piece cut from a soft wood, or in two pieces cut from a hard wood.

I made mine in the latter way, and that is the way I shall describe; but in either case the notches and outline are the same, and Fig. 5 shows both methods of cutting the inside, the shaded part showing the form of the hard wood rib.

The outline can be obtained by reference to Fig. 5, which is drawn to a scale of 1 in. to the foot.

The centres of the curves are at x x, and the batten of the straight part is 1 in. in 6 in.

The notches required in each rib are as follows, commencing at g³:—(1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₂ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 3 in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) ¹⁄₂ in., (1¹⁄₄ in. A,) ³⁄₄ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2 in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₄ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 1¹⁄₈ in. the keelson, and the same on the other side. The notch marked A will be noticed farther on when the time comes for fixing the laths. This section must be firmly screwed to the keelson at 3 ft. from the bows. A seat is also required across it, and the remarks made about the amidship seat will apply to this, except that, perhaps, this should be made the stronger one, as a hole of 1¹⁄₂ in. diameter will be required in its exact centre if it is desired to use the boat for sailing.

The other and last section, I J, of Figs. 6 and 8, is to be placed at a distance of 3 ft. aft of the amidships, and should be made of two oak ribs of the shape shown in Fig. 6, which should be ³⁄₄ in. thick, and not less than 1¹⁄₂ in. wide in the weakest place. The notches required are—(1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2³⁄₄ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₂ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) ⁷⁄₁₆ in., (1¹⁄₄ in. A,) 1³⁄₈ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 1⁷⁄₈ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2¹⁄₄ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 3 in. keelson, and on the other rib the same.

A small triangular piece of ³⁄₄ in. oak should be fixed at the upper end of the stem post, to which the two upper laths and the gunwales may afterwards be fixed. The shape and size are shown at M in Fig. 8, on page 271.

About thirty-five hours will now have been spent in the building of the boat, and a casual observer would not be justified in asking what was being made, for the shape of the boat has now become apparent.

In order to prevent any mishap during the building, it is advisable to screw a strip of deal across from side to side of each section, and these strips can also be used for adjusting the position of each section, for if a small hole is bored in the exact centre of each strip, as well as in the bows and stern, and a small wooden peg be placed in each hole, it can be easily seen if the sections are in their proper positions, for, if they are so, the pegs will be in a straight line; and, if not, one or other of the sections will require adjusting until they are so.

The wood for the laths, keel, and gunwales will now be required; these, of course, will be obtained from a builder or sawyer.

Elm is the best wood of which to make the laths, as it is capable of being bent into almost any shape when steamed; in fact, it will be found as well also to make the keel and gunwales of elm, and if this be decided on the cost of the material and sawing of the laths, etc., will be 10s.

The lengths for the laths will be—six, 13 ft. long; six, 12 ft. 6 in. long; and ten, 9 ft. long; all 1¹⁄₄ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. These must all be planed on the one side and the edges.

The keel should be sawn 11 ft. 3 in. long, ³⁄₄ in. wide, and 2 in. deep, and afterwards planed, the bow end being cut to suit the curve of the bows, and the stern end to the bend of the stern.

The gunwales are each 12 ft. 6 in. long, and 1 in. square, and are planed on three sides.

The next process in the building of the boat is characterised by its heat, and, in fact, is somewhat similar to working in a vapour bath, for, as each of the ribs and laths requires to be boiled tender and flexible before it is possible to fix them, the nature of the work can better be imagined than described. Fig. 7, which is engraved from a photograph, will give a general idea of the position of the laths and ribs, as well as of the interior of the boat.

The first three long laths on either side can be screwed into their places without steaming; before fixing them it is, however, advisable to pencil their places on the bows. The divisions will be as follows, but it must be remembered that notches are not needed to be cut in the stern post, as the end of each lath is bevelled off before being screwed up. Beginning at the top of the stern post, C, Fig. 2, we have (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2³⁄₄ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 1¹⁄₂ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 1³⁄₈ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 1³⁄₈ in., (1¹⁄₄ in.,) 2³⁄₄ in. lower face of keelson, and on the other side the same.

The fourth lath of each side need not be steamed, as it is a short one of 6 ft. 3 in., reaching only from the notches A of section I J across the midship section to the notch A of section G H.

The steaming process of which we now have need can be conducted in a laundry or washhouse boiler, and consists of boiling the wood until it is quite soft and flexible, when it can be bent to any desired shape, which it will always afterwards retain.

The laths (No. 5) will require boiling or steaming, and when perfectly flexible are to be tied firmly in their places, and screwed up when dry. Nos. 6 and 7 are to be treated the same, but No. 7 should not go quite to the bow end of the boat, being cut off and secured about half way between the section G H and the bows. The stern end also of this lath is to be screwed up to the stern post near the point marked d on Fig. 2.

The laths must be fixed one on each side alternately, or otherwise there is a danger of warping the boat. When the laths are all firmly screwed up in their notches the gunwales and ribs must be bent on. The gunwales should be well steamed, especially the bow ends, and then lashed on to the outside of the two top laths, but not screwed on yet.

The ribs, of which there are twelve, are of the same strength and material as the laths, and are placed three in each partition of the boat.

Beginning at the bow end, the first three are cut in half and screwed at equal distances on each side of the keelson. The three between the section G H and the amidships, as well as the three between the amidships and section I J, are in single lengths reaching from the inside of the top lath on the one side, inside the laths and outside the keelson, or rather sunk ³⁄₄ in. into it, and then on top the other side, keeping inside the laths to the top lath.

A screw is driven through the rib into each lath, and the rib is firmly screwed to the keelson, the notch above it being afterwards filled up and planed level with the keelson.

The three ribs at the stern cannot be put in whole, and will require a certain amount of scheming to make them bend and fit in their proper places. The ends of the ribs must be cut off level with the top laths. The screws which hold the rib ends to the top lath are only temporary, for, after the canvas has been stretched on, and the gunwales screwed into their places they must be removed, and longer and stronger ones driven through rib, lath, and canvas into the gunwales.

The two rowlocks can be made by a blacksmith, and it would be well if a rowlock could be borrowed as a pattern from which he can work.

The gunwales must be strengthened to receive the rowlocks at the place k, k, k, k, on Fig. 8, and after the manner shown at k, Fig. 4, with oak strips screwed on to the gunwales, and an iron plate top and bottom, to prevent the holes being worn. The position of the rowlocks is 18 in. from the centre of the seat.

The stem seat will now require attention. It should be placed at about 14 in. aft of the section I J, and its back should be no nearer the stem than 10 in.; it is supported on an A-shaped frame, as shown in Fig. 8, and should be something after the manner of the one shown in Figs. 7 and 8, though the builder will, of course, make it according to his own taste for comfort and appearance, but in any case let it be strong enough.

The rudder should be of the size shown in Fig. 2, and if sailing is contemplated two tillers or handles will be necessary, the one for sailing being a plain handle, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and the other with ropes and placed at right angles to the rudder, as shown in Figs. 7 and 8. Two cleats will be required in sailing, placed one on either side at about 8 in. aft of the section I J, and of the size and shape shown at O, Fig. 8.

The building of the boat will now have occupied about 100 hours, and the builder may congratulate himself that the greater part of his work is over.

The whole of the woodwork should receive a coat of paint, and be left to dry thoroughly. The framework of the boat is then ready to receive the canvas, which in this style of boat answers admirably in the place of boards. The best material for this purpose is a strong, closely-woven sailcloth; the stuff I used cost 1s. 1d. per yard square, and 6¹⁄₂ yards were necessary to cover the boat.

The canvas is nailed outside the laths and keelson crossways, or from side to side; it should be made to fit like a glove, and the seams must be strongly sewn up. The edges are secured by being screwed up between the top laths and the gunwales, and all joints between it and woodwork must be smeared with a mixture of red and white lead before being nailed up. When it is properly fixed in its place, and before the keel is screwed on, it should be made waterproof. This can be done either by coating it first with boiled oil and then giving it several coats of paint, or by the following method, which is taken from the Field, and which I found to answer admirably. Take 6 oz. yellow soap and dissolve in 1¹⁄₂ pints water, and while boiling add and stir in 5 lb. spruce ochre or other colouring matter, ¹⁄₂ lb. patent dryers, and 5 lb. of boiled linseed oil. This composition is applied with an ordinary paint brush, and one coat on the inside and three on the outside are sufficient to make the boat waterproof. Before putting on the last coat of paint, screw on the keel and caulk the joint with a mixture of red and white lead.

The ribs, etc., can be painted any desired colour, and, if it is wished to finish the boat off completely, a coat or two of oak varnish can be applied inside and out.

A strip of iron should be screwed all along the keel, to prevent the wood being damaged.

The mast may be 8 ft. 6 in. long, and 1¹⁄₂ in. thick at the base, tapering upwards. The sail, which is made of coarse linen costing 5d. per yard, is of the shape shown in Fig. 1, and will require 7 yards if the linen is 31 in. wide, or what is in the trade, I believe, called seven-eighths breadth.

The gaff is 6 ft. long, and 1 in. thick, and should, as well as the mast, be made of ash.

The dimensions of the sail are as follows. Referring to Fig. 1, the length of the bottom is 7 ft.; the side close to the mast, 5 ft. 6 in.; top along the gaff, 5 ft. 9 in.; and the remaining side, 7 ft. 3 in. The edges are sewn around a piece of rope, and along the upper edge, close to the rope, is a row of eyelet-holes, through which strong string is passed to lash the sail to the gaff. Two more rows of eyelet-holes are required, the one 6 in. above the bottom edge, and the other 6 in. above that again. These are for the purpose of reefing the sail during a high wind.

A strip of linen should be sewn to the sail along the line of the eyelet-holes, in order to give the brass eyelets a better grasp. The brass eyelets can be obtained from any ironmonger at about fourpence per box, and pinchers for closing them can be borrowed from an ironmonger or a shoemaker.

Of course, ballast will be necessary when sailing, and for this a couple of bags of sand, equal to a weight of 1 cwt., will suffice.

And now I think that the building of the Swallow is finished, and the builder, somewhat weary, perchance, after his solitary labour, extending over some two months, is prepared to enter on the final and pleasanter task of launching his boat. This he may do with confidence, being certain that it will be quite watertight, very buoyant, and capable of carrying and seating three with ease.

Let me, before closing, express the hope that the builder will pass as many pleasant hours in the boat he has built as I have in mine, and then he will have no cause to regret the time and labour spent in its manufacture.

CHAPTER XXIV.—HOW TO MAKE A CANVAS CANOE.
By E. T. Littlewood, M.A.

I propose to give directions for the construction of a canvas canoe requiring the expenditure of from 15s. to £1 in money, from a week to a fortnight of spare time, a very few tools, and a moderate amount of skill.

I have from time to time made canoes of various kinds, and have been led to adopt the pattern to be hereafter described as being most easily and cheaply constructed, and as possessing the important characters of speed, comfort, safety, and durability, and not being too heavy to carry on the shoulder for a quarter of a mile or so if necessary.

Fig. 1 enlarged (15 kB)

To proceed at once to my directions. It will be best to build under cover, though this is not a necessity. For the keel take a piece of straight deal or pine, free from imperfections, 10 ft. × 2 in. × 1 in. For stem and stern post, which should be alike, pieces of oak or elm should be cut to the pattern shown (Fig. 1) from a piece with a curved grain (to be had for about 6d.) 1 ft. 6 in. × 1 ft. × ³⁄₄ in.; 3 in. at the ends should be bevelled off and fitted to the ends of the keel, taking care that the latter forms one plane with them. They are best fixed in their place by driving copper nails through, and tapping their ends over perforated caps known as ‘burs,’ which can be easily obtained; but wire nails clenched will do here, as in other parts of the work.

Next from ¹⁄₂ in. deal plank cut out two shapes to fit over keel (allowing it to project ¹⁄₄ in.), according to patterns (Figs. 2 and 3). Strips of ³⁄₄ in. should be nailed on each side of the sockets cut for the keel, coming rather nearer at their other ends. The use of these is both to strengthen the shapes themselves and to make them fit firmly and tightly to the keel, also to make supports for the coamings round the well, to be described later.