Fig. 1 represents the case and model complete. Divide the interior of the box into two portions by a horizontal partition, fastened to the back and sides by glue and screws. The space below the partition is to be 7 in. deep. In the right of this space fit a cash drawer 9 in. long, 3 in. deep, and 3 in. wide, to hold the pennies. The side of this drawer nearest the machinery must have a slot cut in it for the starting lever (A, Fig. 3) to work in. The sides of the case are made of wood, so that the working of the model can only be seen from the front and so that the flow of pennies will be larger.

Paint the back of the inside of the case to represent a landscape, or a suitably coloured picture can be pasted in, and serve the horizontal partition in the same manner to represent ground, blending the back and ground together in a natural manner. Paint also the top board to represent sky.

Make the mill out of wood or cardboard. It is to be 7³⁄₄ in. high, and the holes for the spindle carrying the sails 5³⁄₄ in. from the bottom. The sails are to be 9¹⁄₂ in. across, and can be made of wood or cardboard, or, better still, wood cross-pieces with cardboard sails. Make the spindle of iron wire ¹⁄₈ in. in thickness. It should be about 3¹⁄₂ in. long. Flatten one end of the wire and drive it into the centre point of the cross-pieces of the sails, being careful to keep it quite square and upright.

Pass the spindle through the holes in the back and front of the mill, and put a knob of sealing-wax on the end, to prevent it working out when the mill is at work. If the mill is made of cardboard, the inside must be strengthened with wood to support the spindle.

We will next turn our attention to the mechanism to set the mill in motion. Very few of my readers possess the tools and skill to use them necessary to cut and fit the wheels, and, as it would come very expensive to get them made specially, it will come very much cheaper to buy one of the cheap eight-day clocks, which will suit our purpose admirably. These can be procured at most of the suitable shops, and will cost about 5s. 6d.

Take the frame and works out of the clock case, and remove the pendulum and hands, as you will not require them. If you now turn round the spindle on which the minute hand fits, you will notice that, although the parts that carry the hands are in motion, the rest of the wheels are stationary. On examining these hand-turning wheels carefully, you will notice that the one carrying the minute hand is fixed on the central spindle by jambing only, and that it turns a small flat wheel which, in turn, gives motion to the wheel carrying the hour hand. This wheel is fixed to a tubular spindle, which fits over the spindle of the minute-hand wheel, which itself is tubular and jambs on the central spindle. Now, as you will not require this movement, take off the hour-hand wheel, and after removing the small flat wheel, replace it and fasten it, together with the minute-hand wheel, to the central spindle with solder.

Some of the cheap clocks have the minute hand fixed direct to the central spindle, the hour wheel only being tubular. In this case the hour wheel and the spindle must be soldered together after the small flat wheel has been removed. As you will not require the escapement wheel, push on one side the small spring clip that presses on the end of the spindle, and it will drop out.

You will now want a pulley wheel (B, Fig. 3). One of the wooden sheaves used in Venetian blinds for the cords to run over will do very well indeed, or if you possess a lathe you can turn one for yourself. It should be 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter and ¹⁄₄ in. thick, having a small hole right through the centre, of a size to fit tightly on the hour spindle of your works. Fig. 2 represents the frame after the wheels not required have been removed. Fig. 3 represents the starting lever and pulley. This pulley must have a notch ¹⁄₄ in. deep cut in one rim, for the hook of the lever to fall into and stop the machinery. This pulley must not be more than 1¹⁄₂ in. in diameter, or you will not be able to get at the winding-up pin.

The frame carrying the wheels must now be mounted in its place under the horizontal partition. For this purpose fasten with screws a block of wood to the floor board, or back of the case, in such a position that the front of the frame is about 5¹⁄₂ in. from the front of the case, and so that the centre of the wooden wheel is about 4 in. from the horizontal partition, and immediately under the spindle carrying the sails of the mill. The horizontal partition must have a slot cut in it, inside the mill, for the connecting cord to pass. The frame is to be fastened to the supporting block by screws, but before doing this you must make the all-important starting and stopping lever.

Get a piece of iron wire ¹⁄₈ in. thick, and about 10 in. long. Flatten one end and bend down about half an inch of this end to form a hook, standing about at right angles to the length; place this hook in the notch of the wheel when it is a little beyond the centre of the pulley, as seen in the cut, and cut the wire to such a length that the other end of it will be about 1 in. from the side of the case, when the gear is in position. Drill a hole crosswise through the wire about 3 in. from the hook, and fasten a small wire to the gear-frame, standing at right angles to it, about 2¹⁄₂ in., measured horizontally from the spindle of the pulley, and near the top. This is for the lever to turn on, as shown in the cut. At the free end of the lever solder a piece of tin bent up on three sides like a small tray, with the edge not bent at the extreme end. This tray or scoop should be about 1¹⁄₂ in. square, and is to catch the penny as it is dropped in.

The hooked end of the lever must be weighted, to slightly outbalance the other part, so that the hook will drop into the notch in the pulley. The frame can now be put in its place and fixed to the block with screws. Bend the long end of the lever till the scoop is 3¹⁄₂ in. from the under side of the partition. In bending the lever you must also see that the scoop is horizontal, or the penny will not remain in it long enough to start the gear. Now connect the spindle of the sails and the wooden pulley-wheel by passing a silk cord or fine string round both tightly, and knotting the ends together.

Now on winding up the spring and pressing down the lever the works will start into motion and the sails will revolve. The speed can be regulated by placing the sails at such an angle that they will offer more or less resistance to the air.

The slot in the door for the insertion of the penny must be cut three-quarters of an inch below the upper edge of the wooden partition, and inside you must fasten a tin trough to conduct the penny to the scoop at the end of the lever. This trough must slope downwards to the edge of the scoop, or the penny will not fall into it, but remain just inside the hole.

The model is now complete, and works as follows: The spring having been wound up and the door closed, the works are kept from moving by the hook of the lever catching in the notch of the pulley, but on a penny being put into the hole, and sliding into the scoop at the other end of the lever, its weight presses down the scoop end and lifts the hooked end out of the notch in the pulley, which turns round, and continues to do so, carrying the sails of the mill round with it till the notch again comes under the hook, which (the penny having fallen out of the scoop into the drawer) falls into it and stops the machinery, giving one revolution of the pulley for a penny. The pulley being twelve times larger than the spindle of the sails, these will revolve twelve times each time the model is started. The model will work about 204 times each time it is wound up.

A Model Cutter Yacht.

Having finished the windmill to your satisfaction, we will now turn our attention to the construction of a model requiring rather more complex machinery. This is shown at Fig. 4, and represents a cutter-yacht sailing on the port tack, on a lee shore; which, if carefully made, so as to produce the effect of the rolling and pitching of a real yacht upon a real sea, will catch many a penny.

The case is made exactly in the same manner as the former one, and has the same dimensions, but has no horizontal partition, only a cross-piece in the front, half an inch square.

The inside of the back you must paint to represent a cliff and sky, or you can paste a coloured picture of the same on it.

The yacht is to be 5 in. long, and is to be set in a sea of silk, which will be described further on. If you prefer it, a full-rigged ship can be substituted for the yacht. For the machinery you will require, as before, an eight-day clock movement, some brass wire, and three or four pulley-wheels. Fig. 5 shows the front view of the mechanism when complete, and Fig. 6 the end view of the same.

As was the case in preparing the works for the windmill, you will require to make some alteration in the wheels, but in this case, as the hour and minute movement will be required for the starting gear, the minute spindle only is to be soldered to the central spindle, and the small flat wheel retained in its place. The escapement wheel must also be retained. B (Fig. 5) is one of the wooden pulleys, 1 in. in diameter, fixed to the minute-hand spindle, and is in connection with another pulley-wheel of the same size (B), turning on a screw fixed in a block of wood fastened to the floor-board in such a position that the centres of the two pulleys are the same height from the floor and 4¹⁄₂ in. apart. O is a lever of wire about 7 in. long, working on a pivot passing through it about 2¹⁄₂ in. from the end C. This end is connected with the keel of the boat, and the other end is weighted, to balance the boat.

Now take your boat, and at each end of the keel fix a small brass plate having a hole drilled in it (FF, Fig. 5), 4¹⁄₂ in. apart, and fix another plate drilled in the same way at C, about 2³⁄₄ in. from the stem of the boat. Take two pieces of wire 5 in. long and bend one end of each into an eye and the other end into a hook, crosswise with regard to the eye, and hook a wire into each of the plates FF, on the keel of the boat, and connect the other ends with the pulleys B and B by two small brass screws passing into the fronts of BB, as shown in Fig. 5, and arrange the pulleys so that one of the pivots shall be up while the other is down.

All these joints and connections must work freely, although not loosely. The two pulleys, BB, you must connect with a cord passing round both. The pitch of the vessel is regulated by the distance the pivot screws are from the centres of the pulleys, which should be about half an inch. You must next make the regulating gear or fly E (Fig. 5). To do this you must take out the pin from the left-hand lower corner of the frame-plate and prise up the plate and take out the fourth wheel near R (Fig. 5), and on the spindle of it fix a pulley, which can be readily done in the following manner. Cut a small notch in one side of the hole in the centre of the pulley just large enough to admit a piece of your wire. Solder about half an inch of this wire along one side of the spindle about the middle of it, and force the pulley on to the spindle over this piece, and it will jamb lightly and be keyed to it. Fig. 7 will show you how to cut the hole in the pulley.

Now return the wheel to its place and re-fasten the frame-plate. Next you must make the fly E. Get a small brass pulley about ¹⁄₄ in. in diameter, and to it solder a strip of tin cut to the shape shown, but being wider in proportion at the ends, say 1 in. wide and 4 in. long. Twist the ends of this fly askew like the fans of a screw propeller, so that it will catch the wind in revolving. Now fix a block of wood to the bottom of the case and fix the fly to it by a small brass screw passing through its centre, so that it works freely and is 3¹⁄₂ in. from the centre of the driving pulley R and level with it. Fasten a block of wood to the back of the case, in which you must fix the screw N (Fig. 5) for the lever O to pivot on. You must next make the starting gear. This is shown in Fig. 8.

As we require the pulleys BB to revolve about twelve times, and as they are attached to the minute-hand spindle, the hour-hand spindle will revolve once. Therefore, on this spindle fix behind the pulley B, by soldering, a circular plate of tin or brass, a little larger than the pulley, and cut in one edge of it a slot a quarter-inch deep and one-eighth of an inch wide. Make your lever as before, but long enough for the hook to catch in the teeth of the wheel C, Fig. 8; and solder a piece of tin to the lever, to fall at the same time into the slot in the disc A, Fig. 8. This piece of tin must be long enough to keep the hook free of the teeth of the wheel C during the revolution of the disc A. The length of the other part of the lever is to be the same as for the windmill. Fig. 6 shows an end view of the machinery. K is a wire connecting the keel with the lever Q, and helps to give the rolling motion so suggestive to voyagers.

Fix your gear into the case in such a position that the keel of the boat will be 7 in. above the floor of the box, and bend the starting lever so that the scoop will be the same distance from the floor and front of the box as in the former case. You have now to make the sea. Get a piece of silk of the kind called Persian, dark green or ‘undecided’ blue, about 18 in. square, and in the middle of it cut a slit 6 in. long, and in this slit fasten the hull of the boat with glue, puckering up the silk, to form the waves on the sides of the vessel. Crumple the whole of the silk into miniature waves, and glue the edges round the edges of the case and to the strip of wood fastened across the front 7 in. from the floor. Touch the crests of the waves with white paint. The silk waves will rise and fall with the motion of the vessel, and appear themselves to be the cause of that motion. If the silk has a tendency to drop in, it can be supported by a floor-board, 7 in. from the bottom, with a hole cut in the centre 5 in. long and 2 in. wide for the boat to work in, and a slot cut for the wire K, Fig. 6. Be very careful that all the joints and connections work easily, or a jerky motion will be the result.

Wind up the works and drop in a penny, and the lever hook will be lifted out of the escapement wheel, and round will go the pulleys, causing the little ship to pitch and roll till the slot A comes round again, when down falls the lever hook and stops the movement. The pace of the movement can be regulated by the angle of the fans of the fly catching more or less air.

As the minute spindle revolves twelve times, the pulleys will revolve only once, which will give about seventeen revolutions each time of winding.

Dancing ‘Niggers.’

Fig. 9 is a view of a case of dancing ‘niggers,’ and is easily made. In the sketch the figures are one-third the real size.

The case measures 9 in. high, 7 in. wide, and 7 in. deep. The back forms a hinged door by which you can get at the gear. The slit for the penny is in the top, and near the right-hand back corner. The legs of the right-hand figure are both made separate from the body and jointed at the knees. They are fastened to the body by small pins, to allow of free working. This figure you must strengthen by glueing a piece of wood behind it 1 in. long, ¹⁄₂ in. wide, and ¹⁄₄ in. thick. The other figure has only the left leg moveable, and must not be jointed at the knee. Glue a strip of wood about ¹⁄₂ in. wide and ¹⁄₄ in. thick right up the back of this figure, and glue it to the floor board. The left leg must have a similar piece of wood glued behind it, and projecting ¹⁄₂ in. longer at the thigh end. Fix the leg to the body by a small pin, for it to work freely on, and in the piece of wood projecting fix, at right angles, a piece of wire about 2 in. long, and cut a curved slit in the background for this to work in, when the figure is about 1 in. from it.

This background you must make out of cardboard, and fix about 3 in. from the front of the case, which is glass. The background you can paint to any design you please, such as a street scene, or on the sands, and the floor to correspond.

Behind the right-hand figure cut a vertical slit in the background about ¹⁄₈ in. wide and 2 in. long, so that the centre of it comes opposite the centre of the figure when the feet are just touching the floor. Fix a piece of wire about 7 in. long into the centre of the figure behind, and at right angles to it, and bend this wire downwards at right angles about 2 in. from the figure. About 1 in. behind the background fix an upright block of wood, to come as high as the centre of the figure, and in front of it fix two small staples, one near the top, and the other about 2 in. lower, but directly under it. Into these slip the end of the wire attached to the figure, after passing it through the slot in the background. This will keep the figure in its place and allow of its moving up and down.

Prepare the works as for the yacht model, and also insert a pulley (A), as shown in Figs. 10 and 5. This is connected with another pulley (B, Fig. 10), which is fixed to a block by a screw that is countersunk below the face of it, and to which is fastened by a small screw two wires working freely and passing one to the wire from the left-hand figure, and the other to the cross-piece of the wire from the right-hand one, and connected with them by the ends being bent into rings. From the cross wire to the figure to the right is also hung a drop wire with a small weight at the end, to help to pull it down. Fig. 11 will explain the fixing of this gear. A fly must be also fitted to the movement, to check the pace. This can be fixed to the pulley (B) or in front of the escapement wheel. The stopping motion is the same as in Fig. 8, but more slots may be cut in the disc, to regulate the length of time allowed for a penny.

The works you must fix behind the background so that the starting lever comes conveniently for the penny in its fall.

With these three examples of the necessary clockwork you will be able by the exercise of a little ingenuity and the power of contriving to make moving models of any subjects that may suggest themselves to you, such as the following: a steamboat with revolving paddle-wheels, cobbler mending shoes, soldiers marching, etc., etc.

A Real Water-wheel.

I will now tell you how to make the model shown in Fig. 12, consisting of a water-mill working with real water, a small fountain in the middle, and children playing at see-saw in the background.

This model is worked with water-power only, and has no clockwork. The case you must make larger than in either of the former cases—24 in. high, 14 in. wide, and 14 in. deep; the height of the floor of the model from the bottom of the case 4 in., and the depth of the upper partition 4 in., the intermediate space closed by a glass door 16 in. by 14 in. The case must be made out of ¹⁄₂ in. stuff and well dovetailed together. In the right-hand bottom corner a drawer for the pennies with a slot in front. The back or one of the sides should have a door in it, to get at the machinery, should it at any time require attending to.

You must now make two zinc tanks, the top one air-tight, to occupy the whole of the upper space, the other also air-tight at first, to occupy the space left in the lower partition by the drawer. The top tank will be 13 in. by 13 in. by 3¹⁄₂ in., and will have a small receiver, about 6 in. square by 1 in. deep, soldered to the bottom of it, and communication with it by a small hole, as shown in E, Fig. 13, about a quarter of an inch in diameter, and having also a small pipe passing from it to the outer air through the large tank. This pipe is not shown in the figure, but it is soldered to the top and bottom of the tank and the ends filed off flush. The zinc for the bottom and sides of the tanks can be cut out of one piece, as shown in Fig. 14. The edges of the tops should be turned over, to add strength. The soldering must be made air-tight. The background of the picture is a false back inserted about 2 in. from the true one, behind which the pipes are placed connecting the vessels together, as shown in Fig. 13, which is a back view.

These pipes must be carefully soldered in. A is the air-pipe to supply reservoir F when in use; B is the pumping-pipe, in the middle of which is fixed an india-rubber force-ball, to be procured at any india-rubber shop, in which is a small pin-valve, to prevent the water flowing back. This pipe extends from the bottom of tank G to the top of tank F, leaving a space of about ¹⁄₈ in. between the ends of the pipes and the metal of the tanks. C is a small pipe by which the water from the basin of the fountain is run into G. E is the receiver into which water from F runs, and from which two pipes lead, one to the wheel of the mill, and the other to the fountain. K is a regulating tap, to govern the supply of air and regulate the amount of water passed into E. D is the stopcock connected with the starting lever, which is about 6 in. long and soldered to the handle of the tap. This tap must work easily, and yet be air-tight.

The lever must be counterweighted, to close the tap when the penny has fallen off the scoop at the end of the lever. H is a small pipe fixed in the top of the tank G to allow the air to pass out when the water is running into it through C. The basin of the fountain should be made of zinc, and fastened to the tube C, and the jet is formed of the end of a blow-pipe connected to the tube from E. The rockery you must form of cinders and paint them to a suitable colour. The mill-wheel should be made of zinc and painted, and the water from it conducted to the basin of the fountain. The other pipe from E you must conduct to a position suitable to set the wheel in motion.

The see-saw you must place so that it can be set in motion by the axle of the mill-wheel, which is carried out long enough under the rockery-bank to reach it, and has a cross-piece of wire soldered to it at a point immediately under one of the figures, and which in revolving tips up one end of the board.

This end of the board is made, slightly heavier than the other, which will make it return to be again tipped up. We will now see how the model is worked. Pour water into the basin of the fountain till it is full, and open the starting lever as shown in Fig. 15. The bottom vessel will now be quite full. Now work the force-ball, which will pump the water out of G into F, the air rushing into G through the pipe H. As soon as the upper tank is full the starting lever is to be closed, and the model is ready to begin work. Now as F, Fig. 13, is an air-tight vessel, no water can run from F into E. But as soon as a coin is dropped into the scoop at the end of the lever A, Fig. 15, its weight presses it down and opens the cock D, which allows the air to be drawn into F, and consequently allows water to pass into E, Fig. 13.

The quantity of air allowed to pass is regulated by the extent to which K, Fig. 13, is opened. The water being in E, and this vessel communicating with the atmosphere through the pipe not shown in the Figs., the water falls into the two pipes, and is conducted by one to set the wheel in motion, and by the other to the fountain-jet, through which it issues and again falls into the basin, and thence again into G.

How to make a Cheap Clock.

An ingenious and inexpensive timekeeper may be made by any boy for a few pence and a little labour. Buy a sheet of millboard, the thicker the better—size, 27 in. by 22 in.—cut off a strip 10 in. by 27 in., and shape it as shown in Fig. 16, the top part to be 10 in. square, and the lower 17 in. by 4 in. Next mark off the remainder of the millboard into three equal parts of 4 in. each, as shown in Fig. 17, then, with a straightedge and a sharp knife, cut half through the lines AA. This will form the two sides and back of the case. The funnel (B, Fig. 18) should be made of tin, with a square top to fit over the millboard, and have a very small aperture at the point; any tinman will make this for 3d. or 4d. The spindle (C, Fig. 18) must be 3³⁄₄ in. long, 3¹⁄₂ in. deep in front, diminishing to 2 in. at back, have a screw-shaped groove from end to end, and work on a small spindle or axle, projecting 1 in. in front, for the hand to be connected to, and ¹⁄₂ an inch at rear. If the young horologist has not a lathe at his disposal, the spindle can be obtained from a turner for a few pence. The weight may be made of a piece of shaped stone, or of an empty stone ink-bottle, from the neck of which the cord passes over the bar (C), round the grooves of the spindle, and out of the hole (K). A small weight, such as a bullet, must be fastened to the other end. A piece of canvas should be glued round the edges of the case, and the whole painted with a good coating of Brunswick black, over which any design may be made, either with gold lines, grotesque figures, or coloured pictures. The dial should be of white paper, 7 in. in diameter, and the hand cut out of the spare millboard and then gilded. Four small reels (E, Fig. 17), such as are used for silk, should be glued on the back, to keep the case from the wall, and a ring fastened to the top to hang it by.

It is now ready for the motive power, which is obtained by the falling of sand, as in the hour-glass. The sand must be first well washed, dried, and sifted, to remove all stones, then poured through the case top to within two inches of the cross-bar (C, Fig. 18), the weight resting on the surface. As the sand runs through the funnel-point the weight will descend with it at the rate of about 1 in. per hour. The flow of sand will be perfectly equable from the time the case is filled until it is nearly empty, which is explained by the fact that the sand lies in a succession of conical heaps, only the first of which presses on the bottom, the others throwing their weight on the sides of the case. A gallon of sand will be more than sufficient to fill the cases, and as it falls it should be caught in a vase placed beneath for that purpose. In winding up the clock the inside weight must be raised to the cross-bar by pulling down the bullet end of the cord, and the sand poured through a paper funnel into the top of the case, care being taken to set the hand to the right hour. A clock of the dimensions here given will work for about twelve hours, but by lengthening the sand-box the working hours will be increased in proportion. It will save time and trouble to have a double supply of sand and two vases, and use them alternately. Of course one does not pretend that such a simple clock as this will keep accurate time.

CHAPTER VIII.—HOW WE MADE A CHRISTMAS SHIP.
By C. Stansfeld-Hicks, Author of Yacht and Canoe Building, &c., &c.

‘What shall we do to amuse the boys?’ was the question asked at a friend’s house. ‘They are tired of Christmas trees, and it is so difficult to think of anything new.’

‘Well,’ I suggested, ‘why not have a Christmas ship?’

A Christmas ship! We never heard of such a thing! What is it?’

And this was the commencement of the planning and building of the vessel in question. To commence was a comparatively easy matter, but before she was finished and ready for her cargo the shipbuilders got rather weary. But you see they had to do everything for the first time, and with little or no previous experience. By attention to the details given in this chapter, those who go in for this Christmas ship will get on faster than we did, profiting by our experience, and not having to retrace their steps and do things over again, which was often the case with us in our first attempt.

When all was finished, the ship, as she appeared in the library, was an extremely pretty sight, her long black hull illumined by the light from the open ports, through which was caught a glimpse of her main deck with its fittings. Around her extended a very realistic sea, ruffled in miniature waves, and far above, towering over the heads of the young people present, were her lofty masts with their complicated rigging. Some of the sails were set, while others were stowed on the yards. Deep down in her hold were most of the presents, while many others were suspended from her yards and rigging, which too were lighted up with small coloured lanterns.

Everything had been kept a profound secret until the library door was thrown open to the guests, and the Christmas ship, glowing with her illuminations and crammed full of presents, stood before them. Such was her capacity, that, although there were some thirty or forty young people ready and eager to plunder her, it was not until they had made three successive raids on the goods and cargo that the hold was declared to be empty, and even then in some of its recesses there still remained a few unappropriated gifts. And now to the details of her construction.

The first operation is to make the frame or stand. This is shown in Fig. 2 and Fig. 3, as well as in the sketch of the ship complete. It is marked H H H H in Fig. 3. The size of the stand will of course entirely depend on the size you intend making the ship, but it should be in about the same proportion to the hull of the vessel as is shown in the diagram (Fig. 2). If the ship is to be 5 ft. long and 3 ft. wide, the stand should be 8 ft. long. You will require two pieces of 11-in. deal plank, ³⁄₄ in. thick, and a short piece about 3 ft. long, which will be used as follows. For the hold of the ship you must get a suitable box, which may be obtained from the grocer. An old currant or biscuit box will do. We used a Florence oil case, which answered very well with the V end turned down and the bottom taken off (see Fig. 6). Fig. 7 shows the manner in which the boards for the stand are arranged round the box. A is the box, B an 11-in. board with a slot about 2 in. deep cut to fit the box. C is a similar board the other side, and D D are two filling pieces placed between the long boards to fill up the space left at either end of the box. A couple of cross pieces may be placed at the dotted lines to secure the frame together. The top of the box is left flush with the upper edge of the stand.

In Fig. 3 the dotted line shows the outline of the box. When the stand is made and put together, the simplest plan to adopt is to take any large packing case which the stand will cover, by about a foot at each end and a few inches at the sides, and nail the stand down on this case. A block of wood must then be put under where the box for the hold comes, of sufficient thickness to keep this box up just flush with the top of the stand, and when the block is nailed down the box can be screwed to it. No fastening will be necessary at the top, as the stand should fit all round it too closely to prevent it working. Care should be taken that there are no nails or splinters inside the box, or when the presents are being taken out some one’s fingers may suffer. It is a good plan to glue some smooth thick wrapping paper over the inside of the box after it is screwed down.

The sides of the ship, which are only the height of the vessel above water, can be made of thick cardboard. Millboard will do, but it cracks easily. The shape of the side having been cut out, a couple of lines must be marked within which the ports are to be cut. The lower edge of the port should be about two inches above the water-line, and the ports themselves two inches high and three wide, the whole height of the vessel’s side out of water amidships being about 6¹⁄₂ inches (this is for a 5 ft. ship), while at the bow it will be an inch or so higher and half an inch at the stern (see Fig. 1). In cutting the ports you will find a sharp chisel the best tool to use, particularly if you are operating on thick millboard. When the ports are cut out the pieces of millboard cut away will do for port lids (see Fig. 10). A is the ship’s side, B the port lid, which is hinged on to the upper port sill by a piece of calico D D, glued on; C is the tricing line for raising or lowering the port. Fig. 9 shows the battens (A A). These are about an inch high and three-quarters thick; they are screwed down on the stand just inside the line the side of the ship will take, and serve to secure the lower part of the ship’s side by glue or screws; or another batten can be run outside the ship’s side—the two battens taking one side of the ship between them, and this is the stronger plan. The deck should be made of a stout piece of deal board, about three-quarter-inch; it must be strong, as it serves to bind the whole fabric together, and the sides are none too strong. This deck is the upper deck, the main deck being formed by that part of the stand inside the vessel’s hull, and the main hatchway being the box. The deck must be placed just at the top of the line of ports (see A A in Fig. 8), so as to leave room between the two decks, and also to leave a bulwark all round the upper deck. The stern may be made of a piece of deal an inch thick, shaped as Fig. 11. Fig. 12 shows the section and the way the edges are bevelled off at A A. The bows can be fastened together by screws or glue, to a wedge-shaped piece of wood put between them (see Fig. 13). C is a triangular block of wood shaped to suit the vessel’s lines, B B the millboard sides, A is a piece of millboard or wood shaped as Fig. 14. The part A A goes between the sides which terminate at the line B B, shown in Fig. 8. The hook B is formed by a piece of wire inserted into the end of the knee of the head, and is used to hang a small figure for a figure-head. Those little plaster angels which have a small wire eye between the wings from which they are generally suspended by elastic, are the most suitable, as the wings fit on either side of the bowsprit, and the figure looks very well.

The most effective part of the affair has now to be described, and that is the way the hold is lighted up. Fig. 2 shows this. A is a common paraffin lamp, with say a three-quarter inch burner (though an inch is better); L is a tin reflector so fitted as to throw the light downward and forward toward the bow; at K is a strong partition to secure the lamp from being upset or damaged while the hold is being pulled about for presents; M M shows the line of the main deck, opening from which is the box P. The rays from this lamp light up the whole length forward of the main deck, and, if the ports are open, send a bright radiance from them through the room.

The upper deck must be fitted with a hatchway of sufficient size just over the box which constitutes the hold, and this hatchway must be so placed that every part of the box can be reached through it even by a small child. The ports may be made to open and shut simultaneously by bringing all the tricing lines into one hauling part, which on being pulled hauls up all the ports at once. This is very effective if the ports fit well, as the room can be darkened, and the ports being suddenly hauled up, the whole interior of the ship is shown brightly illuminated.

The fittings for the lamp on the upper deck have next to be considered. The principal part is the funnel, which can be made of an old canister by cutting it down where soldered together, reducing it to the required diameter and boring holes along the lapping and lacing it together up the side. This is better than soldering, as the heat of the lamp cannot affect the joint. The lower ends of the tube are cut and opened out as at Fig. 4, and a kind of tin washer is cut out (Fig. 5), the inner circle just being large enough to slip over the funnel, but being stopped by the lower ends. The outside circumference of the washer must be large enough to cover these ends. By screwing the washer down on the upper deck, having previously slipped the funnel through it, the funnel is firmly fixed in position, the rake being determined by the way in which the lower ends are cut. To further steady the funnel and make a neat job, a small bridge is cut out of another tin canister or piece of sheet-tin or zinc, as at Fig. 4, B B. This may be made of any suitable width and pierced with a hole in the centre to pass it over the funnel; it is then bent down to the required curve, the ends joining the bulwarks and fitting in the upper deck. A light rail may be fitted, as shown in the elevation, or if the tin is cut as Fig. 4A the side pieces A A can be bent up to form a rail. This bridge may be painted with japan black, which can also be used for those parts of the vessel which require to be painted black.

The partition K (Fig. 2) must be made to remove, working in slides, so that the reservoir of the lamp, by taking off the chimney, can be got out for filling and trimming; the chimney is got off by pushing it up the funnel far enough to clear the lamp.

It will have a good effect if a poop and topgallant forecastle are fitted, as in Fig. 8. C is the poop and D the forecastle. These decks can be made of millboard, and light strips of wood are glued along inside the rail or bulwark, the top of which comes about half an inch short of the top of the rail. The small deck is then placed so as to rest on these strips; it can be fitted with a rail as shown, or not, as the builder decides.

The sea is made of green glazed calico, which must be large enough to cover the stand and hang over all round, touching the floor and concealing the rough stand and its supports. A long slit is made in the centre line of the calico, to pass it over the ship’s hull, and it is then glued along the ship’s sides before they are painted, care being taken that this is carefully done, no rucks or puckers being left. The waves are made by rolls of thin paper introduced here and there, under the calico and glued to the stand, and wherever a wave crest appears the calico is touched up with white paint, and if this is artistically done the effect is very good.

The sides of the ship are now painted black, and if the calico comes far up on the side, it must be painted over and considered as part of the vessel’s side; but along the water-line there should be a certain amount of undulation indicated by the paint, and at the bows and here and there along the side, a little white paint must be put, to show the broken water and foam, while the vessel’s wake should also be indicated by lines of foam diverging at an angle from the course of the ship. Copper may be shown by a copper-red just at the bow and stern along the water, but all black will do very well. The streak containing the ports should be painted white, the outside of the ports black, and the inside red.

The rigging will now have attention. The masts may be made in only two pieces; the topmasts, topgallant masts, and royals being all in one. The lower masts should be rather stout, and can be made of common deal; they must be firmly stepped in blocks secured below for their reception, and the mainmast must be so placed as not to unduly interfere with the hold being got at. The rigging and spars and sails of a ship are given in full with diagrams in other articles in this volume, and need not be repeated here.

The character of the rigging and the number of sails set must depend on the ideas of the builder. The ship may be made at anchor, to save trouble, with all her sails stowed, and a good effect can be easily produced by furling the sails, as is the case with the lower yards in the first illustration. Any rough piece of canvas the proper size will do for this. The ends are made fast to the yardarms, the corners are then folded behind (away from the bows) to the middle of the sail, in order to make a bunt, and the sail rolled up and secured to the yard by lashings of thread or string.

To look well, the sail when stowed should be much larger in the roll at the middle and diminish off to nothing at the ends.

Those stays which it is intended to suspend lamps from should be of wire, and the topgallant yards, if used for a similar purpose, should also be of wire, and if the yardarms are used for this purpose short pieces of thick wire should be lashed to them.

When all is ready, to allow of free access to the hold without damaging the sails or rigging, it is best to brace the head yards sharp up and the main yards aback. This is shown in Fig. 15. By doing this a sufficient space is left on one side of the ship. A A is the fore-and-aft line of the vessel, B the fore yard, C main yard, showing the space B C. D is the mizen trimmed in the same way as the fore yard. The ship would then be ‘hove-to,’ which is an almost stationary position adopted when speaking another vessel or waiting for a boat, etc.—in this case for her Christmas visitors.

I do not think any explanation will be necessary as to the presents. The smaller ones, whatever they are, can be just mixed up together in the hold, and if there are any of a superior character, they can be very well fixed in various places in the rigging.

The Christmas ship in which I had a hand was well found in boats, anchors, cannon, etc., all of which were distributed among the boys of the party. In conclusion, I can only hope that, should you decide to build such a vessel, it may prove a source of amusement to yourselves and gratification to your friends, and no doubt very many will be only too anxious to learn when the good ship Santa Claus is likely to arrive.

CHAPTER IX.—MODEL STEAM-ENGINES, AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.
By Paul N. Hasluck, Author of Lathe-work, &c.

I.—Principles of the Steam-Engine.

This chapter is intended to fully describe the constructive details of miniature steam-engines. It is proposed to first give an idea of the general principles which govern steam-engines, and to explain the various characteristics and methods of constructing different types of engines. The boiler and its several fittings and attachments will be duly described, and then minute directions given for constructing engines with oscillating and slide-valve cylinders. Illustrations of both vertical and horizontal engines will be given, and also sketches in all cases where they will serve to explain more fully the meaning of the text.

This is a brief outline of the scope of the present chapter. Those readers who have acquired only slight manual dexterity in the use of tools will find little difficulty in making the engines illustrated, if the instructions given are carefully followed. In each case the minute details of the various processes incidental to our engineering work will be carefully described, so that those unacquainted with the mechanical arts will be able to comprehend the method of procedure.

Model engines, in every stage of manufacture, from the rough castings direct from the foundry to the complete, highly-finished working model, may now be purchased in nearly every town of importance throughout Great Britain. Though this trade is of but recent growth, its continual extension proves that model engines are objects of interest to a large number of the rising generation, and hence it is felt that information as to their manufacture will prove acceptable to very many readers.

It will be advisable to gain an insight into the principles which govern the action of a steam-engine, and to learn some of the technical peculiarities, before proceeding to attempt its manufacture. There are numerous text-books on the steam-engine, which may be studied with advantage, and which show the theoretical principles.

The modern engine, which now claims our attention, is the result of numerous successive improvements. The application of steam as a motive power was probably originally made by Hero, who, 150 B.C., constructed, or at least described, an Æolipile. This was a hollow sphere with hollow bent arms attached; when water placed inside the sphere was heated, and steam generated, it issued from the arms, and reacting on the air caused the sphere to rotate. A model of this, the primogenitor of the modern steam-engine, can be bought at many opticians’ shops for about one shilling.

The commencement of the eighteenth century began the first steps towards the development of the modern form of engine. Savery and Newcomen made improvements, which were perfected by James Watt, who was born at Glasgow in 1737. Amongst other valuable improvements he first contrived to convert the reciprocating motion into a rotary one by means of the crank. In the year 1800 Watt retired from business, leaving the steam-engine in much the same condition as we find it now. The application of steam-power for locomotion on both land and water followed, and now stationary, locomotive, and marine engines, driven by steam, are distributed all over the civilised world.

The varieties of model engines are in many cases indicated by their names. Stationary engines are intended to be fixed, as those used for driving machinery. Locomotives are those which are intended to travel by steam, and are self-moving. Marine engines are those used to propel ships. Of these three classes we shall deal only with the first and third in the present chapter. Locomotives are much more complicated in their construction, and consequently are more difficult to make.

Horizontal engines are those having the cylinder lying with its axis in a horizontal position. Vertical engines have the cylinder upright; sometimes they are designated by the latter adjective. Beam engines have an oscillating beam; one end is connected to the piston and the other to a rod which drives the crank. Cylinders are single-acting when the steam is admitted only at one end, and consequently with these the crank is only propelled during half of its rotation. Double-acting cylinders are provided with valves which admit the steam at each end of the cylinder alternately. Oscillating cylinders are fitted to oscillate with the motion of the crank, and the steam-valves are usually contrived to act by this oscillating motion. Slide-valve cylinders have a sliding valve, worked by a rod connected to an eccentric on the crank shaft, which opens the steam ports to alternately admit live steam and exhaust at both ends of the cylinder. Slide-valve cylinders are invariably double-acting.

Boilers, which are the vessels in which water is converted into steam, are usually described by their shape and position. They may be cylindrical, spherical, etc., and horizontal or vertical. The construction also forms a distinguishing characteristic. Tubes are usually inserted in the boiler to convey the heat from the fire. These tubes—which are more properly called flues, especially in large boilers—vary in number from one of large gauge to scores of small ones, thus naming the respective boilers single-flue or multiflue. It may be advisable to mention here that tubular boilers are those in which the water circulates in the tubes, and the fire impinges on the outer surface. When the fire operates inside the tube it is called a flue. A tube carries water; a flue carries flame and the volatile products of combustion.

Boilers, or steam generators, that are used to contain the water which, when converted into steam, drives the engine, require to be sufficiently strong to withstand an internal or bursting pressure. This pressure is very great in high-pressure engines, but in models it is generally very low, and seldom exceeds twenty pounds to the square inch. The evaporating capacity of the boiler is according to the requirements of the engine it has to supply. The resistance of the piston to the steam shows the pressure at which it should be supplied. Boilers are generally tested, by means of a hydraulic pump, to stand a pressure at least double that at which it is intended to use them. It is unsafe to generate steam in any vessel that has not been properly tested. This fact cannot be too strongly impressed upon the mind of the reader.

Suppose a double-action cylinder, 1-inch bore and 2-inch stroke, is to make one hundred revolutions of the crank per minute, let us see how much steam will be wanted to drive it. The area of the piston is ·785 inch, and each revolution of the crank will require the cylinder to be filled twice—that is, one stroke in each direction. This will take a column of steam ·785 inch in diameter and 4 inches long for each revolution, or 314 cubic inches of steam per minute. If the speed is greater, the quantity of steam must be increased proportionately; and when running at the rate of one thousand revolutions per minute—a speed often attained—3,140 cubic inches of steam will be wanted to supply the cylinder. That is at the rate of about 100 cubic feet per hour.

The pressure of the steam has not yet been taken into account, but it obviously forms a most important factor in the calculation. Water in an open vessel boils at a temperature of 212° Fahr. Provided that the vessel allows the steam to escape freely, all the heat that can be applied will only generate steam at the same pressure, though it will escape faster. As the bubbles of steam ascend to the surface they escape, having only the pressure of the atmosphere to overcome. When water is confined in a closed vessel, like the boiler of a steam-engine, the temperature may be raised to considerably above the usual boiling-point. The heat is always proportionate to the pressure, and steam at a pressure of 120 lb. per square inch is equivalent to the heat represented by 345° Fahr.

A correct knowledge of the fact that pressure depends on temperature cannot be urged too strongly on the mind of the model engineer. In many model boilers it is quite impossible to raise the heat sufficiently to produce an adequate pressure. Boiling water at 212° Fahr. does not produce any available pressure of steam, it merely counterbalances the weight of the atmosphere, which is 15 lb. to the square inch. By increasing the heat, which can only be done in a closed vessel, available pressure is obtained. Thus 228° = 5 lb., 241° = 10 lb., 251° = 15 lb., and so on. The steam, and the water from which it is generated, and with which it remains in contact, have both the same temperature.

A cubic foot of water weighs 62·5 lb., and it will produce 882 cubic feet of steam, at a pressure of 15 lb. to the square inch above the normal atmospheric pressure; this is equal to a temperature of 251° Fahr. If the pressure is raised to 150 lb., which requires a temperature of 371°, only 187 cubic feet of steam will be produced. Steam is elastic, and hence the more it is compressed the greater will be its force. If one cubic inch of steam, at a pressure of 30 lb., is admitted into a cylinder, and the supply cut off when half filled, the steam will expand till it has filled the cavity, and in increasing its bulk twofold its force will diminish in inverse ratio. The pressure will therefore diminish to 15 lb. to the square inch. The expansive force of steam is always at work on the piston of the engine, and it varies in accordance with the arrangement of the valves.

Let us now trace the effect of the steam when admitted to the cylinder. When the governor valve is opened the steam flows along the pipe to the slide valve chest, and if one of the ports are open it reaches the cylinder. In traversing the pipes which conduct it to the cylinder the steam is cooled considerably and its force diminished. In course of time the parts become heated to a certain extent, and then the loss of power is less. When the steam enters the cylinder it at once exerts a certain force on the piston. This has the effect of turning the crank shaft, and in due course the slide valve closes the steam inlet. Now the steam within the cylinder acts expansively, and continues to drive the crank shaft to the end of the stroke. Then the exhaust port is opened, and allows the spent or dead steam to escape. At the same time the inlet at the other end is opened and the live steam rushes in and exerts its full pressure on the piston, causing it to travel in the opposite direction. The opening and shutting of the steam ports is effected by an eccentric on the crank shaft. In treating of the construction of these parts, the relative sizes will be given and the correct motion explained.

II.—A Simple Toy Engine.

The most simple form of toy engine is that illustrated herewith. It consists of a tin boiler, a single-action oscillating cylinder, and a fly-wheel. These parts are sold ready for putting together at a very low price, and a complete engine may be bought for a couple of shillings, though one of ‘superior make’ at twice that sum is by far a preferable investment.