Dyed Leno Brocade.—This term is used to designate a fabric woven in the Leno style, that is to say, in a combination of "gauze weaving" and any other style of weave, and the term Brocade shows that it is a figured fabric having a figure chiefly constructed by weft threads floating on the surface of the material. As in this class of fabric the threads are not dyed prior to weaving, the term "dyed" shows that the material has been dyed after it has left the loom. See also Lenos.

Dyed Muslins.—Dyed Muslin is an all-cotton fabric of light weight, plain woven, which has been piece-dyed, i.e., impregnated with a uniform colour over its whole surface. There is a difficulty in describing Muslins, for the term Muslin, according to one Government publication, is "a generic term for thin plain-woven cotton cloth. The name, however, is frequently used in conjunction with such names as dotted, fancy, figured, spot, check, Swiss, etc., which in each case would denote some combination weave, or as containing stripes or checks, but the fabric still preserving a light weight." From this, however, it seems clear that a Muslin is a plain non-figured fabric of light weight.

Dyed Plain Cottons.—Under this heading may be grouped all such fabrics which (a) are made of all cotton, (b) have a surface which has not been ornamented by the introduction of any small figures, floral or geometrical designs, whether produced by means of extra threads or by the mode of interlacing the warp and weft threads on the surface of the cloth or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, (c) are dyed in any colour, and (d) are not otherwise enumerated. The fabrics coming under this heading include both fabrics which have not been subjected to any special process of finishing and those which have been so treated, irrespective of the style of finish.

Dyed Plain Cotton Italians.—The fabric answering to this description is primarily an all-cotton Italian Cloth whose surface does not show any ornamentation produced either by weaving, printing, embossing, or any other process. The fact that the fabric has been specially finished, to improve its appearance, by being mercerised, schreinered, gassed, silk or electric finished, does not alter its nature of a "plain" cloth. The fabric, being a "dyed" fabric, is one which has been coloured after leaving the loom. As Italian Cloths are generally woven from a black warp and grey weft and, after weaving, dyed in the piece, they are really "cross-dyed."

Turkey Reds are piece-dyed, that is to say, the cotton fabric is woven, generally a twill-faced cloth, and the piece is dyed. It is not woven of yarn previously dyed. There does exist a yarn dyed with turkey red; this, however, is principally used for weaving in to the ends of pieces of White Shirting or Sheeting certain distinguishing red weft threads, markings that are placed there by the manufacturer of the grey goods (1) to facilitate recognition of his goods when they come back from the bleacher, (2) to denominate quality of goods by acting as a distinctive mark, (3) to prevent the piece being cut at either end and the part cut off stolen whilst at the bleachers. This yarn is also used for markings which are to withstand washing without running. The cost of dyeing the grey or white fabric into a Turkey Red is often greater than the original value of the fabric.

Dyed Reps are fabrics which have as a predominant feature a rep or rib running transversely across the face of the cloth from selvedge to selvedge and which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom. Even without the term "dyed" being used the term Rep by itself would generally be used to designate a dyed plain cotton fabric of the Rep variety. For particulars of weave, see under Rep.

Dyed Ribs.—Fabrics which are either warp or weft ribbed, i.e., having ribs running either from selvedge to selvedge as in warp ribs, or lengthways of the material as in weft ribs, and which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom. For particulars of distinctive weave, see under Warp Ribs and Weft Ribs.

Embroideries.—When applied to woven fabrics this name is used to designate a fine plain-woven cloth made from fine yarns and used for embroidery purposes. Generally a linen fabric.

End.—When the word "end" is used in connexion with weaving it signifies the warp threads, while each filling or weft thread is called a "pick." When used to designate a class of twill-weaving such as "a five-end twill," it refers to the total number of warp and weft threads in the twill pattern; thus, "a five-end twill" designates the interlacing of four warp and one weft. Under "Twill Weave" will be found the generally recognised ways of arranging the order of interweaving.

English Foot.—A stocking having two seams in the foot, one on each side of the sole.

Eolienne.—A sheer silk and wool material. Also in silk and cotton.

Éponge.—A French term for Sponge Cloth.

Equestrienne Tights.—Tight-fitting knitted drawers for women's use, made of ribbed cloth, either with or without feet.

Fancies.—Fancy is a term used to designate those fabrics which are not woven in the same way year after year, but which show variations in weave, colour, or both colour and weave. The principal Fancies of the dress goods variety are Brocades, Cuspettes, Meliores, Hopsacking, Stripes, Checks, Plaids, Mélanges, and Mixtures.

Filled Cotton Cloth.—This form of cloth has the interstices between the threads filled with glue, china clay, white lead, chalk, plaster of paris, glauber salts, glucose, or other filling substances.

Filling.—This term is given to the process of adding weight to a fabric by subjecting it to an operation, whereby it will have been made to absorb certain chemicals or substances. The principal filling agents are zinc chloride, magnesium sulphate, magnesium chloride, glue, gelatine, dextrine, starch, and water glass (alkali silicate). The term "filling" is also used to designate the material used in weighting the fabric and has the same value as "loading" or "weighting."

When the word "filling" is used in connexion with weaving it always signifies the weft threads, each of which is also called a "pick."

Flannelette is a cloth produced to imitate Flannel and has, owing to its raised surface, a "woolly" feel. By being subjected to a special treatment, Flannelette can be rendered "fireproof"; if untreated, it is a highly inflammable material. The better qualities of Flannelette are distinguished from the lower grades by the former being more closely woven in the warp, and the raised nap is shorter in the better grades. Flannelettes are sometimes printed, in which case they would be more correctly described as "Printed Flannelettes," the ordinary Flannelette of commerce not being as a rule "printed." Whereas in certain countries it is not legal to sell as "pure wool Flannel" a material containing cotton, there is nothing to prevent a manufacturer from selling as Flannelette a material in whose composition a certain amount of wool may enter. Unlike Cotton Flannel, which from its very name shows that the material is of cotton, and by inference cotton only, the term Flannelette may not always designate an all-cotton material, although by general acceptance in the trade Flannelette should be an all-cotton fabric.

Flat Underwear.—Goods knitted in plain stitch.

Fleece-lined.—Applied to a variety of heavy-weight undergarments knitted with three threads—namely, face yarn, backing yarn, and a third thread of yarn tying the face and back together. The heavy nap or fleece is produced by running the cloth through wire rolls, called brushers. The term "fleece-lined" is often misapplied to ordinary single-thread underwear which has been run through the brushing machine for the purpose of raising a light nap on the inner surface.

Floconné.—Having small flakes, in white or colour.

Folded Yarn.—Folded Yarn is produced by twisting together two or more single yarns. When two single threads are twisted together the Folded Yarn produced would be called a "two-fold." If the single yarn used in producing the "two-fold" yarn was of 40's count (that is to say, of yarn of which it took 40 hanks of 840 yards to weigh 1 pound), the "two-fold" yarn produced would really become equivalent to 20's count (that is to say, it would take 20 hanks to weigh 1 pound); however, it would not be referred to as being a 20's count, but as a two-fold forties and designated 2/40's. All Folded Yarns are designated by two sets of figures separated by a line, which shows on one side the number of threads folded together and on the other the "count" of the single threads thus folded together. By dividing the number of the single threads into the counts the actual number of hanks of the Folded Yarn per pound is ascertained thus:—

All Folded Yarn is not composed of single threads of the same count. Where such Folded Yarns are met with, and when it is desired to ascertain the number of hanks of such Folded Yarn per pound, the simplest way to proceed is to take the highest count and divide it first by itself and the other counts in succession, then divide the sum of the various quotients into the highest count, and the answer will be hanks per pound:—

In folding yarn part of the length of the original threads folded is taken up in the twist; hence, when folded, they will no longer measure the regulation 840 yards per hank, but slightly under.

Foulard.—A soft twilled silk, usually printed.

French Foot.—A hosiery term meaning having only one seam, and that in the centre of the sole.

Full Regular (sometimes called Looped).—A term applied to hosiery or underwear in which the seams have been connected by hand knitting.

Full-fashioned.—A term used to designate hosiery knitted in a flat web, which is shaped by the machine so as to fit the foot, leg, or body. The webs, or sections, are sewn together to form hosiery, underwear, etc.

Fustian.—This name is given to designate low grades of cotton fabrics woven with a pile weave, such as Cotton Velvets, Velveteens, Corduroys, Moleskins, Cordings, etc. Fustian is also applied to such fabrics when they are made in a combination of cotton and flax or other vegetable fibre. It is more used as a generic term designating a class of fabrics than to designate one particular kind of fabric. One class of Fustians has a raised "nap" on one or both sides, and includes Cantoons or Diagonals, which have a pronounced weft twill on the face side and are used for riding breeches.

Granité.—A weave in which the yarns are so twisted as to create a pebbled surface.

Grenadine.—A somewhat elastic term used to describe an openwork, diaphanous material of silk, wool, or cotton.

Grey Sheeting.—There are two distinct varieties of Grey Sheeting. The first kind is used for bed sheeting and is a stout cotton cloth woven from coarse yarns, usually in a four-shaft two-and-two twill weave, and having a width of as much as 120 inches. The weave of this material being a twill weave having an equal number of warp and weft threads to the inch, the twill lines or diagonal produced will be at an angle of 45 degrees to a line drawn across the width of the material. This diagonal effect is produced by the warp and weft intersections traversing one thread and one pick further from their respective positions each time a pick or weft is inserted. This kind of Sheeting is known as Bolton Sheeting, which is a grey material, i.e., unbleached. In length the piece may measure up to 80 yards. The second kind of Sheeting is Waste Sheeting, made from waste and condenser wefts, i.e., wefts made from certain waste cotton which accumulates during the process of spinning yarn. This waste is treated by special machinery, which prepares it and spins it into a full, level, and soft yarn, which is used for weft in the weaving of Sheetings. Waste Sheetings are woven like Bolton Sheeting, with the exception of the lower qualities, which are often plain or calico woven. The lower grades of Grey Sheeting are often simply grey Calico cloths of about 36 inches in width and resembling very closely Grey Shirtings, the only difference being that they are slightly heavier in the yarn than the ordinary Grey Shirting. Grey Sheeting is generally made up into pieces of from 40 to 80 yards in length and varying in weight according to count of yarn used.

Habutai.—A plain-weave silk, of smooth and even texture, originally made in Japan on hand looms.

Hair-cord Muslin.—A plain-weave fabric having stripes or checks formed by coarse threads, which stand out in a clearly defined manner.

Hand Looms and Power Looms.—The difference between these two kinds of looms lies in the fact that in the former (hand loom) the weaving is the result of the loom being worked and controlled by hand and foot, whereas in the power loom, whether belt driven or driven by electric motor, the power transmitted to the loom works all the essential parts, which are:—

When a power loom has been suitably tuned up, i.e., timed so that the various movements necessary for the forming of the "shed" and the passing of the shuttle and the beating-in occur in the right sequence and at a correct interval of time, the weaver (who, in the case of power looms, is oftener called the overlooker) only has to attend to the broken warp threads or replenishing of the weft shuttle. With a hand loom the weaver controls the heddles which form the shed, throws the shuttle carrying the weft thread through the shed, and as fast as each filling thread is interlaced with the warp beats it in close to the previous one by means of a reed which is pulled by hand towards, and recedes from, the cloth after each passage of the shuttle. This is done to make the cloth firm. The movement of the reed in the hand-power loom (or, more correctly, in the hand and foot power loom) being controlled by the weaver and not mechanically, accounts for irregularity in firmness of weave not found in fabrics woven on a power loom.

Handle.—This term is used either as a "wool term" in connexion with wool or as a general textile term in connexion with fabrics. As a wool term it refers or designates all the attributes which determine quality, i.e., softness, fineness, length, and elasticity—noticeable when wool is judged by the feel. Easier to define than to acquire, "handle" also enters into the judging of woven fabrics. It is then used to denote the hardness, harshness, softness, smoothness, etc., which similarly are factors of quality and which are often best appreciated by the sense of touch.

Harvard Shirting.—This style of Shirting is generally recognised by its broken twill effect, which may be combined with plain stripes, small diamond patterns, etc., woven from dyed yarns. The salient feature of Harvard Shirtings is the above effect in different colours. The ground weave is generally a two-and-two twill.

Henrietta.—A soft, lustrous, twilled fabric of wool; similar to a Cashmere, but finer and lighter.

Herring-bone.—A binding often used in facing the neck and front opening of undershirts. Also applied to the stitching which is made to cover the edge of the split sole in hosiery. Used in connexion with textiles, it is applied to striped effects produced by alternating a left-hand and a right-hand twill-weave stripe.

Hessian.—A strong, coarse, plain-woven packing or wrapping cloth made from jute or hemp yarns. A standard make of this material weighs 10½ ounces to the yard, is 40 inches wide, and averages 13 shots per inch.

Hog, Or Hoggett Wool, is another name for lambs' wool; it is the product of the first clipping of the young sheep and can be distinguished by the fact that its ends are pointed, whereas subsequent clippings yield wether wool with blunt and thickened ends.

Honeycomb.—This designates a style of weave and not an actual fabric. Marked ridges and hollows, which cause the surface of the fabric to resemble that of a honeycomb, are the salient characteristics of this style of weave. The term is also applied to leno weaves when consecutive crossing ends cross in opposite directions.

Huckaback.—This name designates a class of weave mainly used in the weaving of towels or Towelling, which combines a small design with a plain ground. The short floats of warp and weft and the plain ground of these weaves give a rough surface combined with a firm structure. The small design entering into this class of weave varies, but is always a geometrical design and not floral.

Imitation Rabbit Skin.—Generally an all-cotton pile-weave fabric having a long pile, which has not the same amount of lustre as either a silk or mohair pile, being duller in appearance. This kind of fabric may be distinguished from a silk or mohair pile material by the fact that its pile will crush more readily than either. Its pile will not spring back into place readily, more especially when the pile is long. Generally 48 to 50 inches wide and 60 yards long, it is shipped on frames, on which it is fastened by a series of hooks. These hooks hold the material by the selvedges, which are made specially strong. Two 60-yard frames are generally packed in one box or case.

Ingrain.—A term for knitted goods applied to raw material or yarn dyed before knitting.

Irishes.—This generic name is applied to linen fabrics, which are a speciality of Ireland. Irishes have been imitated in cotton, and when such a fabric is met with it should be designated as a Cotton Irish. The term Irishes would cover such fabrics as Irish Cambric, Irish Duck, and Irish Linen.

Irish Cambric.—This fabric, like all true Cambrics, is an all-linen fabric, plain woven, without a selvedge. It has been imitated in cotton, and the name is now currently used to designate an all-cotton plain-woven fabric finer than lawn, in which the warp yarn is often of a different thickness from that used for the filling and is finished with a smooth glazed surface.

Italian Cloth.—A plain cloth generally made of standard materials, i.e., fine Botany weft and a cotton warp. Italian cloth is usually a weft-faced fabric. Like all fabrics woven with a weft-faced satin weave, the weft or filling threads are practically all on the surface of the cloth, producing an even, close, smooth surface capable of reflecting light to the best advantage. Italian cloth is generally cross-dyed, that is to say, woven from a black warp and grey weft, afterwards dyed in the piece. It may be woven either as an all-cotton, a cotton and worsted, a cotton and wool, or a cotton and mohair fabric. Its chief characteristic is its smooth, glossy, silky appearance obtained by various processes of finishing given to the cloth after it is woven. All finishes have the same tendency and purpose, which is to improve the appearance and enhance the value of the cloth. Whilst Italian Cloth may be either plain, figured, embossed, printed, etc., or a combination of these varieties, the name is applied to a "plain dyed cotton fabric."

Italian Cloth, Figured, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft.—This fabric, in addition to the characteristics of the plain Italian Cloth woven from cotton warp and wool weft, has had its surface ornamented by the introduction of figures or floral or geometrical designs produced either by combination of weave or by means of certain extra threads known as "figuring threads." These figures may be produced by means of either extra warp or extra weft threads. In this class of material, where the weft is wool, the extra figuring thread is generally a weft thread. The figuring thread, after having served the purpose of ornamenting the face of the cloth, is allowed to lie loosely or "float" underneath the ground cloth structure. Where the figuring is produced by combination of weave no such floating threads appear.

Italian Cloth, Plain, Cotton Warp and Wool Weft.—Under the heading "Italian Cloth" it will be seen that such a fabric is essentially a weft-faced satin-weave material having practically the whole of the weft or filling threads on the surface. When it is woven from a wool weft and a cotton warp the material shows the face of the cloth as a wool face, the main bulk of the cotton warp showing on the back of the fabric. When woven with cotton warp and wool weft, Italian Cloth still retains the characteristic smooth surface of all weft-faced satin-weave fabrics. Very simple tests by burning will show the nature of both warp and weft, and this class of fabric illustrates clearly, by contrast between the two sets of threads, the nature of weft-faced satin or kindred weave fabrics. Such Italians are generally cross-dyed, i.e., woven with dyed warp and grey weft, and then piece-dyed.

Jean.—A Jean is an all-cotton fabric woven as a three-shaft twill similar to a Dungaree. Good-quality Jeans, woven from coloured warp, are often used as sailors' collars and for children's clothing. Woven in the grey as a weft-faced twill and subsequently dyed, they are used for lining cloths. The weave of a Jean fabric, which is its salient characteristic, is described under "Grey Jeans," which is the kind of Jean most often met with.

Jeanette.—A three-shaft weft twill fabric having warp and weft threads about equally proportioned in number and thickness.

The name "Jeanette backed" is applied to certain pile fabrics that have a three-end twill back.

Applied to a cotton material, it would correspond to a Jean type fabric not as stoutly woven as a Jean. One authority, however, claims that it is "a similar fabric to the Jean in which the warp predominates."

Jouy.—Printings in small floral effects on silk or cotton, similar to Pompadour designs. Named after a Frenchman who established a plant for such work during the reign of Louis XV.

Kerseymere.—Seldom met with under this name. Kerseymere is a fine woollen cloth of a serge-like character, woven with a three-shaft weft-faced twill weave.

Khaiki.—A Japanese silk of plain weave, not so fine as Habutai.

Khaki.—A colour resembling that of the ground. This word is derived from the Hindustani word for "earth." A term applied to a special shade of brown or greenish brown largely employed in soldiers' uniforms.

Ladies' Cloth.—A dress fabric of plain weave, similar to a Flannel in construction, but with a high-finished surface, which gives the fabric a Broadcloth effect.

Lappet Weave.—Lappet weaving is used to produce on a light fabric small designs which have the appearance of having been embroidered upon the fabric, such as the detached spots in dotted Swiss, or narrow and continuous figures running more or less in stripes. This form of weaving is used mainly on plain and gauze fabrics, and the figures are practically stitched into the fabric by means of needles in a special sliding frame. The yarn which produces the figured design is an extra warp thread known as a "whip yarn." Lappet weaving produces the design on one side only of the fabric, and this feature will enable this style of weave to be recognised from other processes, such as Swiss Embroidery. The loose threads existing between the figures when the goods leave the loom are usually cut away, leaving a somewhat imperfect figure or spot with a bit of the figuring thread protruding at either extreme edge of the figure or spot. Lappet-figured fabrics are not Brocades.

Lastings.—A plain twill or kindred weave fabric firmly woven from hard-twisted wool or cotton yarns. Smooth in appearance but having a somewhat hard handle, Lasting is a fine, durable, generally piece-dyed, material, of which there are several varieties, such as the Printed and the Figured. It is sometimes employed in the making of uppers for boots and shoes.

Leas.—A term used to denote the count of linen yarn, each lea being a measure of length equal to 300 yards. When used with reference to cotton yarn, it is a measure of length equal to 4,320 inches, or 120 yards. See under Cotton Yarn Measures.

Leather Cloth.—This name is given to a cloth which is known in the Bradford district as a Melton. It is a union cloth woven from cotton warp and woollen weft having the warp threads running in pairs or, as it is called, in "sisters." Generally measuring from 50 to 56 inches in width and weighing from 20 to 24 ounces per yard, it is finished with a bright, smooth face. The system of interlacing of warp and weft is not apparent either on the face or back of the cloth. By pulling away one or two weft threads it is easy to see that the warp threads are of cotton and that they are in pairs. Leather cloth is free from any figuring and is generally dyed in dark colours.