This is a dismal heavy looking town—so melancholy! the Scheld shut up! the grass growing in the streets! those streets so empty of inhabitants! and it was so famous once. Atuatum nobile Brabantiæ opidum in ripâ Schaldis flu. Europæ nationibus maximè frequentatum. Sumptuosis tam privatis quam publicis nitet ædificiis[54], say the not very old books of geography when speaking of this once stately city;
And surely if the empire of Rome is actually fled away into air like a dream, the opulence of Antwerp may well crumble to earth like a clod. What defies time is genius; and of that, many and glorious proofs are yet left behind in this place. The composition of a picture painted to adorn the altar under which lies buried that which was mortal of its artist, is beyond all meaner praise. The figure of St. George might stand by that of Corregio, and suffer no diminution of one’s esteem. The descent from the cross too!—Well! if Daniel de Volterra’s is more elegantly pathetic, Rubens has put his pathos in a properer place.—The blessed Virgin Mary ought to be but the second figure certainly in a scene which represents our almighty Saviour himself completing the redemption of all mankind. But here is another devotional piece, highly poetical, almost dramatic, representing Christ descending in anger to consume a guilty world. The globe at a distance low beneath his feet, his pious mother prostrate before him, covering part of it with her robe, and deprecating the divine wrath in a most touching manner. St. Sebastian shewing his wounds with an air of the tenderest supplication; Carlo Borromæo beseeching in heaven for those fellow-creatures he ceased not loving or serving while on earth; and St. Francis in the groupe, but surely ill-chosen; as he who left the world, and planned only his own salvation by retirement from its cares and temptations, would be unlikely enough to intreat for its longer continuance: his dress however, so favourable to painters, was the reason he was pitched upon I trust, as it affords a particularly happy contrast to the cardinal’s robes of St. Carlo.
I will finish my reflections upon painting here, and apologize for their frequency only by confessing my fondness for the art; and my conviction, that had I said nothing of that art in a journey through Italy and Germany, where so much of every traveller’s attention is led to mention it, I should have been justly blamed for affectation; while being censured for impertinence disgusts me less of the two. What I have learned from the Italians is a maxim more valuable than all my stock of connoisseurship: Che c’è in tutto il suo bene, e il suo male—that there is much of evil and of good in every thing: and the life of a traveller evinces the truth of that position perhaps more than any other. So persuaded, we made a bold endeavour to cross the Scheld; but the wind was so outrageously high, no boat was willing to venture till towards night: at that hour “Unus, et hic audax[55],” as Leander says, offered his service to convey us; but the passage of the Rhine had been so rough before, that I felt by no means disposed to face danger again just at the close of the battle.
When we find a disposition to talk over our adventures, the great ice islands driving down Rhenus ferox, as Seneca justly calls it, and threatening to run against and destroy our awkward ill-contrived boat, may divert care over a winter’s fire, some evening in England, by recollection of past perils. I thought it a dreadful one at the time; and have no taste to renew a like scene for the sake of crossing the Scheld, and arriving a very few moments sooner than returning through Brussels will bring us—a la Place de
Where every thing appears to me to be just like England, at least just by it; and in fact four and twenty hours would carry us thither with a fair wind: and now it really does feel as if the journey were over; and even in that sensation, though there is some pleasure, there is some pain too;—the time and the places are past;—and I have only left to wish, that my improvements of the one, and my accounts of the others, were better; for though Mr. Sherlock comforts his followers with the kind assertion, That if a hundred men of parts travelled over Italy, and each made a separate book of what he saw and observed, a hundred excellent compositions might be made, of which no two should be alike, yet all new, all resembling the original, and all admirable of their kind.—One’s constantly-recurring fear is, lest the readers should cry out, with Juliet—
How truly might they say so, did I mention the oddity (for oddity it still is) in this town of Lille, to see dogs drawing in carts as beasts of burden, and lying down in the market-place when their work is done, to gnaw the bones thrown them by their drivers: they are of mastiff race seemingly, crossed by the bull-dog, yet not quarrelsome at all. This is a very awkward and barbarous practice however, and, as far as I know, confined to this city; for in all others, people seem to have found out, that horses, asses, and oxen are the proper creatures to draw wheel carriages—except indeed at Vienna, where the streets are so very narrow, that the men resolve rather to be harnessed than run over.
How fine I thought these churches thirteen years ago, comes now thirteen times a-day into my head; they are not fine at all; but it was the first time I had ever crossed the channel, and I thought every thing a wonder, and fancied we were arrived at the world’s end almost; so differently do the self-same places appear to the self-same people surrounded by different circumstances! I now feel as if we were at Canterbury. Was one to go to Egypt, the sight of Naples on the return home would probably afford a like sensation of proximity: and I recollect, one of the gentlemen who had been with Admiral Anson round the world told us, that when he came back as near as our East India settlements, he considered the voyage as finished, and all his toils at an end—so is my little book; and (if Italy may be considered, upon Sherlock’s principle, as a sort of academy-figure set up for us all to draw from) my design of it may have a chance to go in the portfolio with the rest, after its exhibition-day is over.
With regard to the general effect travelling has upon the human mind, it is different with different people. Brydone has observed, that the magnetic needle loses her habits upon the heights of Ætna, nor ever more regains her partiality for the north, till again newly touched by the loadstone: it is so with many men who have lived long from home; they find, like Imogen,
and if they return to it after an absence of several years, bring back with them an alienated mind—this is not well. Others there are, who, being accustomed to live a considerable time in places where they have not the smallest intention to fix for ever, but on the contrary firmly resolve to leave sometime, learn to treat the world as a man treats his mistress, whom he likes well enough, but has no design to marry, and of course never provides for—this is not well neither. A third set gain the love of hurrying perpetually from place to place; living familiarly with all, but intimately with none; till confounding their own ideas (still undisclosed) of right and wrong, they learn to think virtue and vice ambulatory, as Browne says; profess that climate and constitution regulate men’s actions, till they try to persuade their companions into a belief most welcome to themselves, that the will of God in one place is by no means his will in another; and most resemble in their whirling fancies a boy’s top I once saw shewn by a professor who read us a lecture upon opticks; it was painted in regular stripes round like a narrow ribbon, red, blue, green, and yellow; we set it a-spinning by direction of our philosopher, who, whipping it merrily about, obtained as a general effect the total privation of all the four colours, so distinct at the beginning of its tour;—it resembled a dirty white!
With these reflexions and recollections we drove forward to Calais, where I left the following lines at our inn:
It would have been graceless not to give these lines a companion on the other side the water, like Dean Swift’s distich before and after he climbed Penmanmaur: these verses were therefore written, and I believe still remain, in an apartment of the Ship inn:
THE END.
[1] Lord, Madam! why we came here on purpose sure to see the end of the world.
[3] When the mountain was in ill-humour.
[4] More laborious than gathering up the Sibyl’s leaves.
[5] I have danced in my bed so often this year.
[6] Is she yet alive? Is she yet alive?
[7] Be it as it may.
[8] Which was once Anxur, and now is Terracina.
[9] The temple sacred to the maiden Juno and un-razored Jove.
[11] White Anxur’s salutary waters roll.
[12] Why, Madam, you have hit on it sure enough.
[13] Surge, et ego ipse homo sum. Vulgate.
[14] This hiding-hole received Nero after his golden house.
[16] Juno too has her thunder.
[17] Here’s something at last that’s truly great however! why this Alexander looks fit to be king of France.
[18] Paglia is a straw-coloured marble, wonderfully beautiful, and extremely rare; found only in some northern tracts of Africa, I am told here.
[19] What you are already, that desire to be for ever.
[20] Girt with the limus, and as to their temples, they were crowned with vervain.
[21] That’s the name of the spring.
[22] There was an old religious temple hard by, where Clitumnus himself was venerated with suitable dress and ornaments.
[23] Nightly lamenting, &c.
[24] The colony of Ancona, founded by Sicilians.
[26] I am a light-fingered fellow, Master.
[27] We are all sinners you know.
[28] The best among the Cæsars.
[29] Mayst thou be happier than Augustus!—better than Trajan!
[30] Eating increases one’s appetite.
[33] Truth alone is pleasing.
[36] Thy knowledge is nothing till other men know that thou knowest it.
[37] Methinks there seems to be much slavery required from those who inhabit your fine free country of England.
[38] In the fine cieling of Palazzo Ludovigi at Rome, the Hours which surround Aurora’s chariot are employed in extinguishing the Stars with their hands.
[39] One volume of this Leonardiana is now in the private library of the king of England at the queen’s house in the park, preserved from Charles or James the First’s collection, and written with the left hand, or rather backwards, to be read only with the help of a mirror.
[40] All so natural and pretty,—quite in the English style.
[41] That is, with a heap of friends about one in this manner.
[42] Oh! God keep one from that.
[43] What prince makes his residence here?
[46] Faithful to his cares, and companionable in his studies.
[47] Whoever sees thee without being smitten with extraordinary passion, must, I think, be incapable of loving even himself.
[48] Nothing too much.
[49] The lazy ox for trappings sighs.
[50] Ever stormy or venemous.
[51] Here’s the place to see fine diamonds.
[54] Antwerp is a noble town of Brabant, situated on the banks of the Scheld; frequented by most of the nations in Europe, and sumptuous in its buildings both public and private.
[55] One—and he a bold one.
BOOKS printed for T. CADELL,
in the Strand.
Letters to and from the late Samuel Johnson, LL. D. To which are added, some Poems never before printed. Published from the original MSS. in her Possession. By Hester Lynch Piozzi. Two Vols. 8vo. 12s. in boards.
Mrs. Piozzi’s Anecdotes of the late Dr. Johnson during the last Twenty Years of his Life, 4th Edition, 4s. in boards.
A Tour through Sicily and Malta. In a Series of Letters to William Beckford, Esq; of Somerly in Suffolk, from P. Brydone, F.R.S. 2 Vols. Illustrated with a Map. 3d Edition. 12s.
A View of Society and Manners in France, Switzerland, and Germany, with Anecdotes relating to some eminent Characters. By John Moore, M.D. 2 Vols. 3d Edition. 12s.
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, with Anecdotes relating to some eminent Characters. By John Moore, M.D. 2 Vols. 14s.
Zeluco: Various Views of Human Nature, taken from Life and Manners, foreign and domestic. 2 Vols. 8vo. 12s. boards.
A Tour through some of the Northern Parts of Europe, particularly Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Petersburgh, in a Series of Letters. By N. Wraxall, jun. 3d Edition. 6s.
A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland. By the Author of the Rambler. 6s.
A Journey from Gibraltar to Malaga, with a View of the Garrison and its Environs, &c. &c. Illustrated with a View of each Municipal Town, and a Chart, &c. By Francis Carter, Esq; 2 Vols. with a great number of Plates. 2d Edition. 18s. in boards.
The History of England, from the Invasion of Julius Cæsar to the Revolution. A new Edition, printed on fine Paper, with many Corrections and Additions; and a complete Index. By David Hume, Esq; 8 Vols. Royal Paper. 4to. 7l. 7s.
⁂ Another Edition on small Paper. 4l. 10s.
The History of Scotland, during the Reign of Queen Mary and of King James VI. till his Accession to the Crown of England; with a Review of the Scottish History previous to that Period; and an Appendix, containing Original Papers. 2 Vols. 4to. By William Robertson, D.D. 5th Edition, 1l. 10s.
⁂ Another Edition in 2 Vols, 8vo. 14s.
The History of the Reign of the Emperor Charles V. with a View of the Progress of Society in Europe, from the Subversion of the Roman Empire to the Beginning of the Sixteenth Century. By William Robertson, D.D. embellished with 4 Plates, elegantly engraved. 3 Vols. 3l. 3s.
⁂ Another Edition in 4 Vols. 8vo. 1l. 4s.
The History of America, Vols. I. and II. By William Robertson, D.D. Illustrated with Maps. 2l. 2s.
⁂ Another Edition in 3 Vols. 8vo. 18s.
The History of Ancient Greece, its Colonies and Conquests; from the earliest Accounts, till the Division of the Macedonian Empire in the East; including the History of Literature, Philosophy, and the Fine Arts. Adorned with a Head of the Author, and Maps adapted to the Work. 4 Vols. 1l. 8s.
The History of the Reign of Philip the Second, King of Spain. By Robert Watson, LL.D. Professor of Philosophy and Rhetoric at the University of St. Andrews, 2d Edition; 2 Vols. 2l. 2s.
⁂ Another Edition in 3 Vols. 8vo. 18s.
The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. By Edward Gibbon, Esq; 6 Vols. which complete the original Design of the Author, and comprise the entire Series of History from the Age of Trajan and the Antonines, to the taking of Constantinople by the Turks, and the Establishment at Rome of the Dominion of the Popes. Adorned with a Head of the Author, and Maps adapted to the Work. 6l. 6s. Boards.
⁂ The 4th, 5th, and 6th Vols. may be had separate, to complete Sets, 3l. 3s. Boards.
An Historical View of the English Government, from the Settlement of the Saxons in Britain, to the Accession of the House of Stewart. By John Millar, Esq; Professor of Law in the University of Glasgow. 1l. 1s.
Miscellaneous State Papers, from 1501 to 1726, in 2 Vols. 4to. Collected from the Museum, Hardwicke, and other valuable Collections, 2l. 2s.
Memoirs of Great Britain and Ireland, from the Dissolution of the last Parliament of Charles II. till the Capture of the French and Spanish Fleets at Vigo. By Sir John Dalrymple, Bart. 2d Edit. 3 Vols. 3l. 1s.
Memoirs of the Marshal Duke of Berwick, written by himself, with a summary Continuation, from the Year to his Death in 1734; with explanatory Notes, and Original Letters relative to the Campaign in Flanders in 1708. 2 Vols. 12s.
The History of England, from the earliest Accounts of Time to the Death of George the Second, adorned with Heads elegantly engraved. By Dr. Goldsmith. 4 Vols. 1l. 4s.
An Abridgment of the above Book, by Dr. Goldsmith, adorned with Cuts, for the Use of Schools. 3s. 6d.
The Parliamentary or Constitutional History of England, from the earliest Times to the Restoration of King Charles II. Collected from the Records, the Rolls of Parliament, the Journals of both Houses, the public Libraries, original Manuscripts, scarce Speeches and Tracts. All compared with the several cotemporary Writers, and connected throughout with the History of the Times. With a good Index, by several Hands. 24. Vols. 8vo. 7l. 7s.
Grey’s Debates, being a Continuation of the above. In 10 Vols. 3l. 3s.
Memoirs of the Duke of Sully, Prime Minister of Henry the Great. Containing the History of the Life and Reign of that Monarch, and his own Administration under him. Translated from the French. To which is added, the Trial of Ravaillac, for the Murder of Henry the Great. A new Edition. In 5 Vols. 8vo. 1l. 10s.
⁂ Another Edition, in 6 Vols. 12mo. 18s.
A Biographical History of England, from Egbert the Great to the Revolution: Consisting of Characters disposed in different Classes, and adapted to a Methodical Catalogue of engraved British Heads; interspersed with variety of Anecdotes and Memoirs of a great Number of Persons, not to be found in any other Biographical Works. 4 Vols. 1l. 4s.
The Lives of the most eminent English Poets; with Critical Observations on their Works. By Samuel Johnson. 4 Vols. 1l. 4s.
An Ecclesiastical History, Ancient and Modern, from the Birth of Christ to the beginning of the present Century. In which the Rise, Progress, and Variations of Church Power are considered, in their Connection with the State of Learning and Philosophy, and the Political History of Europe, during that Period. By the late learned John Lawrence Mosheim, D.D. Translated, and accompanied with Notes and Chronological Tables, by Archibald Maclaine, D.D. A new Edition, corrected and improved. 5 Vols. 1l. 10s.
An Historical and Classical Dictionary, containing the Lives and Characters of the most eminent and learned Persons in every Age and Nation, from the earliest Period to the present Time. By John Noorthouck. 2 Vols. 12s.
A Philosophical and Political History of the Settlements and Trade of the Europeans in the East and West Indies. Translated from the French of the Abbé Raynall, by J. Justamond, M.A. A new Edition carefully revised, in 8 Vols. 8vo. and illustrated with Maps. 2l. 8s.
Sketches of the History of Man, by the Author of the Elements of Criticism. 4 vols. 1l. 8s. 3d Edition.
An Account of the Voyages undertaken by Order of his present Majesty for making Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere, and successively performed by Commodore Byron, Capt. Wallis, and Capt. Carteret, in the Dolphin, and Swallow, and the Endeavour; drawn up from the Journals which were kept by the several Commanders, and from the Papers of Joseph Banks, Esq; and Dr. Solander. By John Hawkesworth, LL.D. Illustrated with Cuts and a great Variety of Charts and Maps (in all 52 Plates) relative to the Countries now first discovered, or hitherto but imperfectly known. Price 3l. 12s. bound.
An Account of a Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World, performed in his Majesty’s Ships the Resolution and Adventure, in the Years 1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775. Written by James Cook, Commander of the Resolution. In which is included, Captain Furneaux’s Narrative of his Proceedings in the Adventure, during the Separation of the Ships. Elegantly printed in two Vols. Royal 4to. Illustrated with Maps and Charts, and a Variety of Portraits of Persons, and Views of Places, drawn during the Voyage by Mr. Hodges, and engraved by the most eminent Masters. 2l. 12s.
Travels into Poland, Russia, Sweden, and Denmark, interspersed with historical Relations and political Inquiries, illustrated with Maps and Engravings. By William Coxe, A.M., F.R.S. &c. 4 Vols. 1l. 10s.
An Account of the Russian Discoveries between Asia and America; to which are added, the Conquest of Siberia, and the History of the Transactions and Commerce between Russia and China. By William Coxe, A.M. Fellow of King’s College, Cambridge. Illustrated with Charts, and a View of a Chinese Town, 3d Edit. 7s. 6d.