Leland entered Northamptonshire from Huntingdonshire, coming through Kimbolton and the village of Leighton. We have in Vol. I., folio 3:—
“From Leighton to Barnewel Village” (in Northamptonshire) “a vi miles by exceeding faire Corne and pasture ground.”
“Thence to Oundle ... the Medowes lying on every side on a great Leavel thereabouts.”
“Oundale to Foderingeye, a 2 miles by mervelous fair Corne ground and Pasture, but little wodde.”
“From Welingborow to Northampton 8 miles al be champaine Corne and Pasture Ground, but little wood or none, even as it is betwixt Oundale and Welingborow” (fol. 7).
“Wedon is a praty throughfare, sette on a playne ground” (fol. 11).
“Towcester is 7 miles from Wedon and as much from Northampton, al by playne Corne ground and pasture.”
“Northampton to Kingesthorpe a mile, and a little farther, by Multon Parke enclosed with Stone ... thens by Champayne Ground, bering good grasse and Corne, a ix mile to Ketering” (fol. 12).
“Thens to Welledon, an uplandish Towne, 4 miles, where the Soile is sumwhat furnished about with wood, and plentee beside of Corne and Grasse ... And thens 2 mile by Corne, Pasture and Wood to Deene.”
“From Dene to Rokingham, by summe Corne and Pasture but more Wood grounde a 3 miles” (fol. 13).
“There lyeth a greate valley under the Castle of Rokingham, very plentifull of Corne and Grasse ... The Forest ... about 20 mile yn length, and in bradthe 5 or 4 Miles in sum places in sum less. And withyn the precinctes of it is good Corne and Plentie of Woodde.”
“Rokingham to Pippewelle, the late Abbay, abut a 3 Miles of by Wood and Pasture.”
“Dene to Haringworth a 3 Miles be Corne, Grasse, and sum Woody Grounde” (fol. 14).
Then entering Leicestershire, he says:—
“The grounde bytwixt Dene and Staunton is plentiful of corne, and exceeding faire and large Medowis on both sides of the Weland. But from Rokingham to Staunton there was in sight little Wodde, as yn a Countrey al Chaumpain. From Staunton to Leycester al by Champaine Grounde an 8 or 9 Miles” (fol. 15).
“Leyrcester to Brodegate by grounde welle Wooddid 3 miles ... Brodegate to Groby a Mile and a half much by Woodden lande” (fol. 19).
“Brodegate to Leighborow about a v Miles. 1st foreste of Charley communely called the Wast, xx miles or more in Cumpace, having plenty of woode” (fol. 20). The forest of Leyrcester, the other forest of the county, he says, is five miles in length.
“Brodegate to Bellegrave Village a 4 miles by Woddy and Pasture Grounde” ... “Bellegrave to Ingresby a 4 Miles, partely by Corne, Pasture, and Woddy ground.... Thens to Wiscombe a 4 Miles by Corne, Pasture and Wood ... faire Orchardes and Gardenes” (fol. 22).
“Marke that such parte of Leyrcestershire as is lying South and Est is Champaine, and hath little Wood. And such parte of Leircestershire as lyith by West and North hath much woodde” (fol. 24).
Next he passes through Rutlandshire into Northamptonshire again:—
“From Wiscombe partely through Woddy ground of the Forest of Leefield, and so in Ruthelandshir by Woddy first, and then all champain Ground, but exceeding rich Corne and Pasture, to Uppingham ... from Uppingham to Haringworth (Northamptonshire) 3 little miles, al by Champaine ... Dene to Cliffe Parke 3 Miles; it is partely waullid with stone, and partely palid. From Dene to Coliweston a 5 or 6 Miles, partely by Champaine, partely by Woodde ground” (fol. 25).
“From Coly Weston to Grimesthorpe (in Lincolnshire) about an 8 or 9 most by playne Ground, good of Corne and Pasture, but little wood” (fol. 26).
His journey then took him northwards, but returning, he again passed through Leicestershire, Rutland and Northamptonshire, and notes:—
“Notingham to Bever (Belvoir) all by champaine ground, 12 miles” (fol. 113).
“Bever to Croxton, 2 miles” (fol. 115).
“Croxton to Castleford Bridge by champaine” (fol. 115).
“Castleford Bridge to Stamford 1 mile” (fol. 115).
“Stamford to Colyweston 2½ miles, champayn” (fol. 115).
“Colyweston to Dene, moste by Chaumpaine” (fol. 115).
“Dene to Foderingeye, most by wood, 6 miles” (fol. 116).
“Foderingey to Undale, 2 miles, champaine” (fol. 116).
“Thens a 9 mile to Layton in Huntingdonshire, Champaine” (fol. 116).
“To Higham Ferrers in Northamptonshire, 8 miles” (fol. 116).
“To Bedford, 14 miles, champaine” (fol. 116).
“From Charlecote to Stratford a 3 Miles by Champaine, good corn and grasse” (166 b).
“I roade from Stratford by champaine Ground, fruitfull of Corne and Grasse a 5 miles ... thence 2 miles by Champaine to Coughton. From Coughton to Aulcester 2 miles by enclosed Ground (167 b). I roade from Aulcester towards Evvesham a 2 Miles by woody and inclosed Ground, and then a mile by Ground lesse inclosed, but havinge more Corne then wood. Thence a 4 miles by cleane Champion” (168 b).
Having thus entered Gloucestershire, he came through Worcester and Lichfield, and so re-entered Warwickshire from the north, and found—“Colishull to Meriden 4 m. by enclosed ground having some corne, wood and pasture. 3 miles by like ground to Coventry” (190 a). To Southam was “4 m. good corne and pasture in Champion,” thence to Banbury in Oxfordshire “10 m. by champaine, noe wood but exceedinge good Pasture and corne.”
From Dunstable to “Mergate,” as we have seen, was “al by Chaumpaine a vj miles” (vol. 1, fol. 120). But “thens by Chiltern Hilles and woods and baren woody and ferne ground vij miles to Barkhanstede” (in Herts, near the Buckingham boundary, fol. 121). “Thens I passid by Hilly, Woody, and much baren ground to Cheynes (in Bucks) a v miles ... v miles good Pasture and Corne, v miles mory Ground, and 3 m. by sum enclosid and Woddy ground to Windelsore. From Windelsore by a 3 miles most be wood and enclosid, and 2 m. in faire open and levelle medow ... to Tamise ... Half a mile to Stanes Bridge” (fol. 122).
On a later journey he came from Oxford, and entered Bucks at Thame “by some Hilly and after great Pasture Groundes, fruitfull of beanes a 10 m. to Querendon in the Vale of Alesbury. Thens 5 m. to Alesbury all champaine” (Vol. IV. 191 b). But from Hagmondesham (Amersham) to Uxbridge was “9 miles by goodly enclosid grounds.”
He came from Reading and crossed the river to Caushem (Caversham). “Thens I rode a v miles and more all by great Woddes. And thens by Chaumpaine hilly ground a 4 m. to Ewelm” (Vol. II. fol. 5). “From Ewelm to Haseley a v m. by Chaumpaine Ground somewhat plentiful of corn, but most layid to Pasturage” (fol. 7). “From Haseley to Chisilhampton by plaine ground fruteful of corne and Grasse, but baren of wood as al that Angle of Oxfordshire is, 3 miles. Thens to Drayton Village. Thens a mile to Dorchester” (fol. 10). “To Walingford 1½ m. by mervelus fair Champain” (fol. 12). Here he again crossed the Thames into Berkshire; but later he entered the north west of the county, and found the district from Sutton to Banbury “all by champaine barren of wood” (Vol. IV., fol. 162 b), and the first 12 miles of the road from Banbury to Warwick “by Champaine Groundes, fruitful of Corne and Grasse” (163 a). Similarly from Southam (in Warwickshire) to Banbury was “10 m. by champaine, noe wood but exceedinge good Pasture and corne,” and from Banbury to Bercester (Bicester) was 10 or 11 miles of “champaine.”
“From Coly Weston to Grimesthorpe about an 8 Miles or 9, most by playn Ground, good of corne and pasture, but little wood” (Vol. I. fol. 26). “From Grimesthorpe to Corby about a 3 Miles by Champayne Ground.... Thens to Boutheby a 3 Miles, and thereaboute is meately store of Wodde scaterid” (fol. 27). “From Boutheby to Hayder al by Champaine ground, fertile of corne and grasse, 4 Miles. From Hayder to Sleford a vj Miles al by Champaine grounde (fol. 29). From Sleforde to Ancaster a 4 Miles by Chaumpaine (fol. 30). Ancaster to Temple Bruern al by Champaine of Ancaster Heth a 4 Miles.... From Temple Bruern to Lincoln 10 Miles by Champaine” (fol. 32). “Lincoln to Torkesey parte by Marsh Ground, and part by other, but very little wood, a 7 Miles. Torkesy to Marton Village about a mile by plaine sandy ground” (fol. 35).
“From York to Kexby Bridge by Champaine v miles” (Vol. I. fol. 49). Thence he went to Leckenfield, a village a little to the north of Beverley, “And al this way betwixt York and the Parke of Lekenfeld is meately fruteful of Corn and Grass, but it hath little wood” (fol. 49). He then went south to Hull and returned to Beverley: “From Kingeston to Beverle a vj Miles, a v by low pasture and Marsch Ground, and a Mile by enclosid and sumwhat woddy ground” (fol. 57). Starting from Beverley again towards Goole he has “Beverle to Walkington Village a 2 Mile, one by enclosid, and another by chaumpaine good corne land. Walkington to North Cave Village 5 Miles by fair champain corn ground. Northcave to Scalby a 3 Miles al by low Marsch and Medow Ground” (fol. 57).
“From Scalby to Hoveden (Howden) 4 M. scant one by enclosid Pasture and 3 by Morische and Fenny ground” (fol. 58). “From Hoveden to Wresehill (Wressel) a 3 Miles al by low Medow and Pastureground, whereof part is enclosed with Hegges” (fol. 59). “From Wresehill ... Ferry about a Mile, most by Medow Ground, and so a xj Miles to York, whereof most parte was in sight Medow and Morisch Ground, and but meane corne, but toward York the soyle and corne were better” (fol. 69).
He came on his first journey from Scrooby in Notts to Doncaster. He observes, “Bawtre to Doncaster an vij Miles by a great Plaine and Sandy ground caullid Blitherle” (Vol. I. fol. 37), Round Doncaster is “Medow, Corn and sum wood,” but from “Tikhill to Cunesborow (Conisbrough) a 4 Miles by stony way and enclosid ground” (fol. 39), and from “Dancaster to Heathfield (Hatfield) by champayn sandy ground a 5 Miles,” and here comes Hatfield Chase, the scene of Vermuiden’s labours later. He return to Doncaster and went north and found “The ground between Dancaster and Pontefract in sum places meately wooddid and enclosid ground” (fol. 42); from “pontefract to S. Oswaldes by much enclosid and meately woddy ground a 3 Miles or more” (fol. 44). From St. Oswalds to Sandon village (a mile from Wakefield), “a 3 Miles by enclosid Ground” (fol. 44). From Wakefield to Pontefract direct was “a vj miles parte by Enclosure, parte by Champaine” (fol. 46). Thence to Leeds, he found first three miles of enclosed ground, then five miles of low meadow, and “good high plaine corne ground” (fol. 46).
From Leeds to Tadcaster was apparently unenclosed, but from Tadcaster to York there was first 4 miles of enclosed ground, then four by “playn Champaine” (fol. 48). “From York to Stockton yn the Moore a 3 Miles by low Pasture and moreisch Ground.... Thens a 5 Miles by much lyke Ground ... a little beyond that as about half a M. is Whitewelle Village. Thereabout the Fieldes for a Miles space were inclosid.... Thens a 2 M. by Fyrry. Thens to Malton a 3 Miles, and the ground is hilly there and daly and plentiful of Corne and Pasture (Vol. I. fol. 63). From Malton to Shirburne Village about an 8 miles by Champaine Ground. From Shirburne by Hilles to Semar. Thens a Mile by Meately plaine Ground, and so 2 Miles more in a vale enclosid with stepe Hilles on ech side to Scardeburg (fol. 66).
“Moste of the Ground from Scardeburg to Pykering was by Hille and Dale meate plentiful of Corn and Grasse but little wood in sight” (fol. 70). The vale of Pickering was open field land.
North-west of York itself was the great forest of Galtres, ten miles through (fol. 74). At Herperly Village beyond was “meately good corn ground, Pasture and Medow and sum Wooddes” (fol. 75).
Further south. “From Kirkeby Wisk to Northalverton a 4 Miles by Pasture and Corne Ground” (fol. 75).
Returning later from Durham we have from Greta Bridge to Richmond, “sum good corn and much More (fol. 95). Richmond to Middleham, al by mory Ground and little wood” but “Middleham to Gervalx Abbay a 2 Miles most by enclosed Pastures.” His route lay through Ripon, West Tanfield, Boroughbridge, to Knaresborough; he notes pasture, corn, wood and moor. Then comes the great forest of Knaresborough, 20 miles long and 8 broad. Then he went south through Pontefract and Doncaster, finding after Doncaster “3 Mile al by Champain ground” (fol. 105).
He came again into Yorkshire from Lancashire, and found by the Ouse near York “the ground was fair of Pasture, Corne and wood” (Vol. V. fol. 91), and from “Shirburne to Pontfract 6 m. soile in sight plaine, wel cornid, but little wood” (ibid.), and coming south, there is “woddy Grounds,” and “soile riche of wood, Pasture, corne,” but no mention of enclosure.
Leland’s observations are as follows. He saw, approaching Lechdale on crossing the Thames from Faringdon, “In ripa ulterori ... greate Enclosures of stone walls” (Vol. II. fol. 22). He turned into Wiltshire, and came from Bradford into the neighbourhood of Bath and East Somerset. Burton to South Cadbury, and thence to Sherborne, just over the Dorset boundary, was “fair and fruteful Champain” (fol. 47), but by another route back from Sherborne to South Cadbury “the Pastures and Fieldes be much enclosid with Hegge Rowes of Elmes”(fol. 50), and a little later he says that “most part of al Somertsetshire is yn hegge rows enclosid” with elms (fol. 55).
Some details are given later. Southtown to Midsummer Norton was “hilly and enclosid,” but Midsummer Norton to Wells “chaumpayne” (Vol. VIII. fol. 5), but thence south to Munney Delamere “hilly and enclosid” (fol. 7). Midsummer Norton to Mells (near Frome) was champayn (Vol. VIII. part 2, fol. 78 a). From Bath to Kelston (in Wilts) was champaine (fol. 67 b) and the triangular district between Bristol, Bath and Chipping Sodbury about half enclosed and half “champaine,” and also the district on the other side of the Bristol Avon towards Frome in Somerset, the immediate neighbourhood of Frome being open (Vol. VII., part 2, fol. 68–77).
Aulcester (in Warwick), to Evesham was “2 Miles by woody and inclosed ground, and then a mile by Ground lesse inclosed.... Thence 4 miles by cleane Champion” (Vol. IV. fol. 168 b), and the “champion Ground” continued for 6 or 7 miles to Stanwey, on the Cheltenham road.
North-west Worcester seems to have been generally enclosed. We have Bridgenorth (in Shropshire) to Kidderminster “mostly enclosed ground” (Vol. IV. fol. 182 b). Bewdley to Milton, Milton to Hertlebury, and hence to Worcester is all described as “enclosed Ground” (183 b and 184 a), and so also the country between Worcester and Bromsgrove (185 a and 186 b).