Title: From Dan to Beersheba
Author: John Philip Newman
Release date: October 26, 2017 [eBook #55824]
Most recently updated: October 23, 2024
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Richard Hulse and the Online Distributed
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JERUSALEM.
This edition of Bishop Newman’s book on Palestine—From Dan to Beersheba—is demanded by its introduction into the course of study prescribed for the undergraduates in our Annual Conferences, who, during their ministry, will have frequent occasion to refer to the history, topography, and customs of the Holy Land, of which this book so fully and clearly treats.
The Publishers.
The two Boundaries.—The parallel Mountains.—The great Valley.—Inspired Eulogies.—Sterile Soil.—Gibbon’s Comparison.—Natural and miraculous Causes of present Sterility.—Testimonies of pagan Authors on the ancient Productions of Palestine.—Land coveted by the great Nations of Antiquity.—A Land of Ruins.—Present Fertility and Fruits.—Richness of the North.—Volney on the Variety of the Climate of Palestine.—Beauties of Spring in the Promised Land.—Flowers.—Magnificent Scenery.—Standard of Landscape Beauty.—Palestine is a World in Miniature.—Illustrations.—Prophetical Descriptions of the twelve Tribeships.—Wonderful Correspondence.
Location of Jerusalem.—Strong defensive Position of the City.—Surrounding Hills and Valleys.—Its Situation compared to that of Athens and Rome.—True Meaning of the 125th Psalm.—Tower of Psephinus.—The two Valleys.—Height of the adjacent Mountains.—A City without Suburbs.—Modern Wall.—Goliath’s Castle.—Immense Stones of Solomon’s Age.—Ancient Portals.—Beautiful Corner-stone.—Pinnacle of the Temple from which Christ was tempted to throw himself.—Golden Gate.—Tower of Antonia.—Objection to Prophecy answered.—The Bevel the Sign of Jewish Masonry.—Great Cave beneath the City.—Wanderings by Torchlight.—Solomon’s Quarry.—Tyropean Valley.—Five Hills of Jerusalem.—Mount Zion.—Royal Abode.—Herod’s three Towers.—Splendid Church of St. James.—House of Caiaphas.—Scene of the Last Supper and of Pentecost.—Tomb of David.—Royal Plunderers.—Proof of its Antiquity.—Home of the Lepers.—Sad Sight.—Akra.—Bezetha.—Napoleon’s Church.
Mount Moriah.—Site of Solomon’s Temple.—Surrounding Walls.—Great Fosse.—Pasha’s Palace.—Council Chamber of the Jewish Sanhedrim.—Jews’ Place of Wailing.—Their cruel Treatment.—Scene on Friday Afternoon.—Mournful Spectacle.—High-priest.—Prophecy fulfilled.—Solomon’s Bridge.—Its Antiquity.—Temple Area.—Tower of Antonia.—Shrines within the Inclosure.—Imposing View.—Dome of the Chain.—Mosque of Omar.—Its grand Exterior.—Its History.—Its Portals.—Its magnificent Interior.—Sacred Rock within the Mosque.—Traditions.—Scene of the Offering of Isaac and of other Scriptural Events.—Mosque of El-Aksa.—Its Interior and History.—Solomon’s subterranean Passageway.—Extraordinary Workmanship.—Mosque of Jesus.—Solomon’s great Vaults.—They reflect his Genius.—Evidence of their Antiquity.—Solomon’s great Lake beneath his Temple.—His Work.—Vicissitudes of Mount Moriah.
Valley of the Dead.—Tombs of the Judges.—Of El-Messahney.—Of the Kings.—Valley of the Kidron.—Pillar of Absalom.—Traditional Tombs.—Jews’ Cemetery.—Funeral Procession.—Mount of Offense.—Virgin’s Fountain.—Gardens of Siloam.—Bridal Party.—Pool of Siloam.—Of En-Rogel.—Vale of Hinnom.—Burning of Children.—Valley of Slaughter.—Potters’ Field.—Solomon’s Coronation.—Pools of Gihon.—Pool of Hezekiah.—Supply of Water.
Laws of the Credibility of Tradition.—Dean Trench on Words.—Scenes of the historical Events of Christianity not well defined.—Palm Sunday in Jerusalem.—Crossing the Mount of Olives.—Journey to Bethany.—Site of the City.—Home of Mary and Martha.—Tomb of Lazarus.—Christ frequented Bethany.—To his Visits is due its Significance.—Touching Legends.—Resurrection of Lazarus.—Scene of Christ’s triumphal March to Jerusalem.—Garden of Gethsemane.—Old Gardener.—Walls and Iron Gate.—Place of Sweet Repose.—Flowers.—Pictures.—Aged Olive-trees.—Overwhelming Emotions.—Ascent of the Mount of Olives.—Three Paths.—David’s Ascent.—Connection of the Mount with the two Dispensations.—Scene of the Ascension.—True Place.—Commanding View from the Summit of Olivet.—Passion Week in Jerusalem.—Footsteps of our Lord.—Good Friday in the Holy City.—Visit to the Garden.—Lord’s Supper.—Sleepless Night.—Calvary.—True Location.—Its Appearance.—Appropriate Place.—Via Dolorosa.—Pilate’s Judgment-hall.—Ecce Homo Arch.—Legendary Stations.—Crucifixion of Christ dramatized by the Latin Monks.—The Procession.—Ascent to Calvary.—Tumult.—Spectators.—Sermons.—The Cross.—Church of the Holy Sepulchre.—Architecture.—Scene in the Court.—The Façade.—Imposing Interior.—Chapel of the Greeks.—Rotunda.—Dome.—Holy Sepulchre.—Magnificent Decorations.—Its Interior.—The Tomb.—Holy Shrines.—Not the Tomb of Christ.—Difficulties of the Question.—Evidence for its Identity.—Objections.—Argument against the Site.
Forty Days and forty Nights in the Holy City.—Inside View of Jerusalem.—Streets.—Buildings.—Commerce.—A Cosmopolitan City.—Government Officials.—Taxation.—Population.—Turks.—Dervishes.—Fast of Ramadan.—Feast of Beiram.—Moslem Sects.—Their Creeds.—Quarter of the Jews.—Their wretched Condition.—Their Nationalities.—Pensioners.—Jewish Passover.—Ceremonies witnessed.—Jewish Sabbath in Jerusalem.—Synagogue.—Education.—Mr. Touro and Sir Moses Montefiore.—Religious and Industrial Institutions.—Christian Sects in the Holy City.—Armenians.—Their Wealth.—Greeks.—Their Influence.—Latins.—Their Edifices.—Monastic Quarrels.—Curious Scene.—Rivalry between France and Russia.—Russian Gold.—Protestant Christianity in Jerusalem.—English Church.—House of Charity.—The two Slave Girls.
Road to Jericho.—Delay.—Caravan.—Robbers.—Ladies.—Scenery.—Waters of Enshemesh.—Wilderness of Judea.—Scene of Christ’s Temptation.—Thieves of Jericho.—Parable of the Good Samaritan.—Brook Cherith.—Wild Region.—Elijah fed by the Ravens.—First View of the Plain of the Jordan.—Evening at Jericho.—Ruins of the ancient City.—Historical Events.—Fountain of Elisha.—’Ain Dûk.—Castle of Doch.—Jericho of the New Testament.—Scene of Herod’s Death.—Town of Riha.—Site of Gilgal.—Great Events.—Sunrise on the Plain of Jericho.—Richness of the Plain.—Quarantania.—Description of Turkish Soldiers.—The Ride.—Banks of the Jordan.—Sources of the Sacred River.—The ten Fountains.—The three Lakes.—Descent and Sinuosities of the River.—Glen through which it flows.—Flowers and Trees on its Banks.—Birds in its Shrubbery and Beasts in its Thickets.—Its Color.—Depth.—Rapidity.—Twenty-seven Rapids.—Falls.—Islands in the River.—Roman Bridges.—Brook Jabbok.—Jacob and the Angel.—War Scenes.—Entrance of the Jordan into the Dead Sea.—Meaning of Jordan.—Pilgrim’s Ford.—Charming Scenery.—Mountains of Moab.—Vision of Balaam.—Vision of Moses.—His Death.—Crossing of the Jordan by the Israelites.—Probable Place.—Overflowing of the River.—Causes.—Translation of Elijah.—Cure of Naaman.—Baptismal Stations of John the Baptist.—Bethabara.—Ænon.—Scene of Christ’s Baptism here.—The Argument for it.—Journey to the Dead Sea.—Robbers.—Features of the Sea.—Delightful Bath.—Dimensions of the Sea.—Its Bed coeval with the Upper and Lower Valleys.—Sea larger than formerly.—No Outlet.—Its Waters evaporate.—Peninsula.—Island.—Surrounding Mountains.—Hot Springs of Callirrhoe.—Sublime Chasm.—Castle of Machaerus.—Wild Glen.—River Arnon.—Scenery.—City of Kerak.—Ruins of Zoar.—Location of Sodom.—Manner of its Destruction.—Mountain of Salt, cause of the saltness of the Sea.—Lot’s Wife.—Ruins of Masada.—Besieged by Flavius Silva.—Tragical Death of 600 Sicarii, their Wives and Children.—Fountain of the Kid.—David and Saul.—Maon.—The Home of Abigail.—Journey to Bethlehem.—Wilderness of Engedi.—A Night with the Monks of Mâr Sâba.—The Monastery.—Bethlehem.—Its Names.—Antiquity.—History.—Convent of the Franciscans.—The Stable of the Nativity.—Present Condition.—Pictures.—The Manger.—Tomb of St. Paula.—Cell of St. Jerome.—Basilica of St. Helena.—Evidence that this is the Birthplace of Christ.—Stable in a House.—Situation of Bethlehem.—Population.—Beautiful Women.—Herodium.—Tomb of Herod the Great.—Cave of Adullam.—Hiding-place of David.—Its Wonders.
En Route for Hebron.—Travelers.—Beautiful Scenery.—Ancient Travelers.—Evening.—Gray’s Elegy.—Search for Lodgings.—Hebron.—Its Name.—Origin.—Home of Abraham.—History.—Location of the City and its Environs.—Pools.—Cave of Machpelah.—The Mosque over it.—Tombs of the Patriarchs and their Wives.—Prince of Wales.—Isaac still Lives.—Identity of the Cave.—Evidence.—United in Death.—Beersheba.—Its ancient Wells.—Events of the Past.—Changeless Customs.—Abraham and the Angels.—Dining with an Arab Sheikh.—Grapes of Eshcol.—Abraham’s Oak.—Ruins.—Pool of Solomon.—His Aqueduct.—Plains of Rephaim.
Land of the Philistines.—Its Limits.—Fell to the Lot of Simeon and Dan.—Origin of the Philistines.—The meaning of the Name.—Their royal Cities.—Their God and Goddess.—Journey thither.—Valley of Roses.—Baptism of the Eunuch.—Home of John the Baptist.—Slaughter of the Jews in the City of Bether.—Site of Bethshemesh.—Home of Samson.—Village of Zorah.—Field where the Angel appeared.—Town of Timnath.—Lair of the Lion.—Home of Delilah.—Oriental Weddings.—Valley of Shochoh.—Scene of the Conflict between David and Goliath.—Correspondence between Scripture and the natural Features of the Place.—The Valley.—The Brook.—The smooth Stones.—The Sling.—The Mountains.—The Champions.—The Victory.—Home of Goliath.—Gath.—David’s feigned Insanity.—Road to Eleutheropolis.—Its Location.—Great Caves.—Site of Lachish.—Its great Battle-field.—Sennacherib and Hezekiah.—Byron’s Hebrew Melody.—Gaza.—Palm-groves.—Direction of the Road.—Site of the City.—Modern City.—Ancient Ruins.—Christian Church.—Home of Giants.—Gates that Samson carried away.—His Prison.—The great Feast.—Samson called.—His Presence alarms the Multitude.—Feats of Strength.—Death Scene.—He is a Failure.—Alexander the Great wounded at Gaza.—A Moslem City.—Ascalon.—Route thither.—Stood near the Sea.—Ruins.—Desolation.—History.—Adorned by Herod.—Captured by the Crusaders.—Road to Ashdod.—Beautiful Gardens.—No Ruins.—Dagon and the Ark.—Road to Joppa.—Villages.—Joppa on the Sea.—Its Antiquity.—Floats of Pine and Cedar.—House of Simon.—Substantial Structure.—Peter’s Vision.—Appearance of the Town.—Gate of the City.—Population.—Jews.—Nubian Magician.—Magnificent Orange-groves.—Ramleh.—Franciscans.—Traditions.—Antiquities.—Tower.—View.—Ludd.—Eneas cured of Palsy.—Church of St. George.—Beautiful Ruin.—Nether Bethhoron.—Wretchedness.—Upper Bethhoron.—Battle-field of Gibeon.—The Battle.—Wonderful Correspondence.—Testimony of the Rocks.—Ajalon.—Sun and Moon stand still.—City of Gibeon.—Modern Town.—Gibeonites.—History.—Death of the Gladiators.—Pool of Gibeon.—Murder of Amasa.—Solomon’s Dream.—“The Look-out.”—Mizpeh.—National Rendezvous.—Ebenezer Stone.—Saul chosen King.—Minaret.—Vast and magnificent Prospect.
Northern Palestine.—Gibeah.—Birthplace of King Saul.—Historical Events.—Thrilling Story of Rizpah watching her Dead Sons.—Identity of the City.—Field of the Arrow.—Parting of David and Jonathan.—Nob.—Massacre of the Priests.—The View.—Birthplace of Jeremiah.—Geba.—Pottage.—Benighted.—Yusef Shang, of Beeroth.—A Night of strange Experience.—Town of Beeroth.—Ancient Bethel.—Its Desolation. Site of the City.—Abraham’s Altar.—Parting of Abraham and Lot.—The Fountain.—Jacob’s Flight and Dream.—Idolatry.—Prophecy fulfilled.—Route to Shiloh.—Romantic Scenery.—Robbers’ Fountain.—Wild Glen.—Robbers.—Their Dance.—Sinjil.—Shiloh.—Remains.—Site discovered in 1838.—Tower.—Damsels of Shiloh carried off.—Death of Eli.—Approach of the Robbers.—An Attack.—Resistance.—Again assailed.—Again resist.—Revolvers drawn.—Escape.—Overtaken.—Third Attack.—Revolvers in demand.—Sixteen against Four.—Serious Moment.—One of the Party whipped.—Narrow Escape.—Lebonah.—Ride to Nablous.—Grand View.—Evening on the Plain of Mukhrah.—Antiquity of Nablous.—History.—Its beautiful Situation.—Population.—Inside View of the Town.—Character of the People.—Christian School.—Origin of the Samaritans.—Remnant of the Nation.—Their Creed.—Their religious Peculiarities.—Their High-priest.—Their sacred Writings.—Vale of Shechem.—Its Length and Beauty.—Cursings and Blessings of the Law.—The Scene.—Great Congregation.—Twin Mountains.—Jacob’s Well.—History.—Sweet Water.—Evidence of its Antiquity.—Jesus at the Well.—Woman of Samaria.—Accuracy of its evangelical History.—Well Sold.—Tomb of Joseph.—Symbol of his Life.—Ascent of Mount Ebal.—Twenty Lepers.—Ascent of Mount Gerizim.—Almond-groves.—Ruins on the Summit.—Holy of Holies of the Samaritans.—Traditions.—Not the Scene of the Offering of Isaac.—Samaritan Passover.—Impressive Moment.—Lambs slain.—The Feast.
A Price for Politeness.—Escort.—Picturesque Scenery.—Samaria.—Its Founder.—Its Vicissitudes.—Residence of Elisha.—Famine.—City beautified by Herod.—Its Location.—Hill of Omri.—Grand Ruins.—Tomb of John the Baptist.—Temple of Augustus.—Prediction fulfilled.—Departure for Cæsarea.—Night on the Plain of Sharon.—The Sick brought out.—Plain of Sharon.—The Lost Lake.—Cæsarea uninhabited.—Dangers.—History.—Imperial City under Herod the Great.—Grand Ruins.—St. Paul a Prisoner.—Death of Herod Agrippa.—Athlit.—Mount Carmel.—Scene of the Sacrifice.—Great Event.—Abode of Elisha.
Plains of Palestine.—No Farm-houses.—Great Plain of Esdraelon.—Its Fertility.—Topography.—River Kishon.—World’s Battle-field.—Waters of Megiddo.—Deborah and her Victory.—Jeneen.—Bethshean.—Encampment.—Modern Sheikhs and ancient Patriarchs.—City of Ruins.—Jabesh Gilead.—Pella.—Gideon’s Fountain.—Mount Gilboa.—Battles.—Jezreel.—Napoleon and the Turks.—Shunem.—Nain.—Endor.—Witch’s Cave.—Saul and Samuel.—Witches.—Mount Tabor.—Its Form.—Woods.—View.—Misnomer.—Transfiguration.—It occurred at Night.—Argument.—Benighted Party.
Jerusalem and Capernaum the great Centres of our Lord’s Ministry.—Christ a limited Traveler.—Judea and Galilee contrasted.—Provinces of Galilee.—The Herods.—Meaning of Galilee.—Sea of Galilee.—Its Characteristics.—Hallowed Associations.—Imperial City of Tiberias.—Founded by Herod Antipas.—His Crimes.—John the Baptist.—It became a Jewish City and the Metropolis of the Race.—Home of eminent Scholars.—Now an Arab Town.—Citizens.—Miraculous Draught of Fishes.—Jesus never visited it.—Warm Baths of Tiberias.—Site of Tarichea.—Naval Engagement.—Bridge of Semakh.—River Jarmuk.—City of Gadara.—Ruins.—Tombs.—Not the Scene of the Destruction of the Swine.—Argument.—Ruins of Gamala.—Near here was the Scene of the Miracle.—Mouth of the Jordan.—Bethsaida Julias.—Feeding of the Five Thousand.—Our Lord Walking on the Sea.—Home of Mary Magdalene.—Rich Plain of Gennesaret.—Parables.—Site of Capernaum.—Fountain of the Fig.—Thrilling History of the City as connected with Christ.—The Woe.—Desolation.—Bethsaida.—Birthplace of Peter, James, and John.—Not Bethsaida Julias.—Influence of natural Scenery upon the Formation of Character.—Chorazin.—Sudden Gale upon the Sea.—Extensive Remains of the City.—Without an Inhabitant.—Upper Jordan.—Waters of Merom.—Tell el-Kâdy.—City of Dan.—Its Fountain.—Cæsarea Philippi.—Town of Hasbeiya.—Fountain.—Highest perennial Source of the Jordan.—Mount Hermon.—Vast and grand Prospect from its lofty Summit.—Scriptural Allusions.—“Valley of the Pigeons.”—Sublime Ravine.—Mount of Beatitudes.—Battle of Hattin.—Defeat of the Crusaders.—Triumph of Saladin.—Route to Nazareth.—Its authentic History is not older than the Christian Era.—Its Valley and Mountains.—Population.—Schools.—Legendary Sites.—Scene of the Annunciation.—House and Shop of Joseph.—Pictures.—Fountain.—Beautiful Girls of Nazareth.—Mount of Precipitation.—True Mount.—View.—Scene of our Lord’s Childhood and Manhood.
Phœnicia.—Its Extent and Fertility.—Origin of the Phœnicians.—Their Commerce.—Their Learning.—Departure from Nazareth.—Cana of Galilee.—First Christian Wedding.—Beautiful Vale of Abilin.—Plain of Accho.—City of ’Akka.—Names.—Metropolis of the Crusaders.—Their Destruction.—Gibbon.—The Moslem Nero.—Napoleon’s Defeat.—Road to Tyre.—Summer Palace.—Excavations.—Wild and dangerous Pass.—Antiquity of Tyre.—Three Tyres.—Stupendous Water-works.—Continental Tyre.—Sins and Judgments.—Glory departed.—How Prophecy was fulfilled.—Insular Tyre.—Tyre of the Crusaders.—Cathedral.—Tomb of Hiram.—Wonderful Temple.—Sarepta.—Zidon.—Gardens.—Ancient Glory.—Wars.—Harbor.—Citadel.—Tombs.—Interesting Discoveries.—Ornaments.
Mountains of Lebanon.—Grand Scenery.—Sublime View.—Mountain Traveling.—Scriptural Allusions.—Cedars of Lebanon.—Their Number, Appearance, and symbolic Character.—Population of the Mountains.—Districts and Peculiarities of the Druzes and Maronites.—New Road.—Crossing the Mountains.—Plain of the Bukâ’a.—Leontes.—A swollen River.—Ancient Cities.—Imposing Cavalcade.—Wives of the Pasha of Damascus.—First View of Damascus.—Splendor and Enjoyments of the Interior of the City.—Great Plain of Damascus.—Abana and Pharpar.—Scene of St. Paul’s Conversion.—City without Ruins.—Antiquity and thrilling History of Damascus.—House of Judas.—Home of Ananias.—“Street called Straight.”—Naaman’s Palace.—Tombs of the Great.—Location of Damascus.—Walls and Gates.—Old Castle.—Great Mosque.—Gardens of Damascus.—Commerce of the City.—Curiosities in the Bazars.—Population.—Christian Citizens.—Origin of the Massacre of 1860.—Its Progress.—Terrible Scenes.—American Vice-Consul.—Ruins.—Sad Results.—Defense of the Christians by Abd-el-Kader.—Visit to the Chieftain of Algiers.—Our Reception.—Testimonials.—His Appearance.—Conclusion.—Political History of Palestine.—Its Condition under the Turks.—It is now in a Transition State.—Possessions of European Nations.—Future of the Holy Land.—Christian Missions.—Decline of Mohammedanism.—Religious Liberty.—Future Glory.
The Land and the Book are inseparable. Like prophecy and history they complement each other. They are the reciprocal witnesses of the same great truth. They stand or fall together. Our chief interest in Palestine is the confirmation of scriptural allusions to its topography, the scene of personal and national history. The sacred writers make incidental references to towns and cities, to valleys and mountains, to lakes and rivers, to battlefields and other scenes of important events, around which will forever cluster the most hallowed associations of our religious faith. They make these allusions with an accuracy of statement which to-day is in proof of the sincerity of their purpose and the truthfulness of their record. There is a sublime naturalness in their narration which is monumental evidence of the facts which they have transmitted to mankind. These frequent off-hand references clearly indicate that the sacred writers resided in Bible Lands, that they witnessed the events they recorded, and were familiar with the times, places, and persons of which they wrote.
Unbelievers realize the force of this argument and have sought, but in vain, to charge the inspired penmen with inaccuracy, and thus throw distrust upon their history; but they have found to their consternation, both by personal observation and the testimony of travelers, that the Bible is the most reliable handbook of Palestine extant.
During one of my visits to Jerusalem I chanced to meet a venerable English barrister who had made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land to write a book against the Bible founded on the supposed discrepancies between the Land and the Book; and I subsequently met him at Beyroot, after his fruitless journey from “Dan to Beersheba.” While at Mosul, opposite ancient Nineveh, I met George Smith, sent forth by a London journalist to explore the Assyrian ruins, and who, as archæologist and philologist, ranks with Layard and Rassam. He went out an unbeliever, but such is the agreement between the record of the ruins and the record of the Book, that Mr. Smith returned to London a believer, and lectured before the Society of Biblical Archæology on the marvelous synchronisms of the Assyrian tablets and the sacred historians.
From Dan to Beersheba was written to verify these references. It has the advantage of having been written on the scene of the recorded event, in notes taken for future elaboration of all that had transpired thereon, whether in sacred or profane history. It was my custom, from which I seldom deviated, to read on the spot every reference in the Bible to each locality I visited, and to record my observations and impressions while my mind was aglow with the recollections of the hallowed associations of the place and impressed with the extraordinary agreement between the inspired narration and the present aspect of the scene where the grand events had transpired; so that the traveler of to-day, with this book in hand, will have his memory refreshed and his mind inspired by a picture of what once occurred on the accredited historic site.
Through all the turbulent centuries since Christ ascended, Palestine has been a “changeless land,” whose social customs, mechanic arts, commercial and manufactural methods have suffered little from contact with Western civilization, and it should be the ambition of Christendom to preserve it intact to the last generation of mankind. Providence calls us to preserve this monumental land. The changeful influence of the mighty West is seen to-day on lower Egypt, on Asia Minor, on Grecia and Rome in Europe, but Palestine abides the same forever; as Christ and his apostles left it we now see it, and so should it be seen by all future ages. Impelled by sectarian zeal or for political purposes, the nations of Europe have sought supremacy there, and the Promised Land is the larger factor in the Eastern Question, but neither France, nor Russia, nor England should take possession, but rather a syndicate, representing all nations and all creeds, should hold it in fee simple by purchase from the Sultan subject to such rights of property as may vest in the present inhabitants.
It is a land of buried cities which await the coming of the spade. Names are to be verified, places are to be identified, dates are to be reconciled. The whole land should be open to research. Modern Jerusalem should be removed. The Jerusalem of Solomon and of Christ is from two to three hundred feet buried beneath the present city. That religious metropolis of the world has suffered twenty-seven sieges, and eleven cities have been built upon the ancient site. Each conqueror leveled the débris and thereon reared his new capital. Vital questions await the spade of the explorer. Much has been accomplished within the last twenty years, and more awaits the efforts of the future.
The whole of western Palestine has been surveyed, and the biblical gains have been immense. Not less than six hundred and twenty-two names west of the Jordan are given by the sacred writers. Of these we had knowledge of two hundred and sixty-two, and by the survey one hundred and seventy-two were discovered and added to our list, leaving one hundred and eighty-eight to be uncovered by the archæologist. Some of these are insignificant, but others are of intense interest, such as Mamre, Gethsemane, and Arimathea, around which cluster most hallowed memories. The surveyors have determined the boundaries of the tribes, the march of armies, the routes of pilgrims, merchants, and kings. Beautiful Tirzah, royal residence of Jeroboam, has been identified, with its enchanting landscape—“Beautiful as Tirzah, comely as Jerusalem”—and in the rocks are to be seen the tombs of the kings of Israel. The famous battlefield of Sisera and Deborah has been traced, the relative positions of the contending hosts by the waters of Megiddo, the path of the flight of Sisera, when “the river Kishon swept them away, that river of battles, the river Kishon,” the site of the black tent of Heber the Kenite, where the generous Jael gave the royal fugitive Leban a delicious preparation of curdled milk, and then, when he infringed upon oriental etiquette and insulted her womanhood by forcing himself into the women’s apartments, the avengeful Jael drove the iron tent-peg into the offender’s brain.
The “Brook Cherith,” from which Elijah drank, and the “Valley of Achor,” where Achan was stoned, have been identified, and the site of Bethabara, dear to all Christians, has been recovered. The native name Abârah, a passage or ferry, now marks one of the fords of the Jordan, just above where the Jalûd debouches into the sacred river, and means the same as Bethabara—a “ferry.” This disarms the critics of the fourth gospel, inasmuch as Cana of Galilee is but twenty-two miles from Abârah, a day’s journey, while from the traditional site of our Lord’s baptism the distance is eighty miles. Forty fords of the Jordan have been identified; hundreds of ancient names have been recovered; the site of Gilgal has been determined; the tombs of Joshua and of Nun, and the tombs of Eleazar and Phinehas, successors of Aaron in the priesthood, have been rescued from oblivion, and are to be seen in Mount Ephraim, south of Shechem, all of which appear of great antiquity.
In the first chapter of this book I gave what seemed to me at the time the wonderful correspondence between the prophetical descriptions of the twelve tribeships and the present aspects and conditions of those twelve sections, as to climate, physical features, soil, cultivation, and natural products, and the recent surveys more than confirm this correspondence. It is now apparent that the boundaries of the tribal possessions were rivers, ravines, ridges, and the watershed lines of the country, and, above all, the fertility of the soil was in accordance with the density of population, and this density is now indicated by the larger number of ancient ruins.
While excavations have been made with more or less success in all the notable sections of the land, those of chief interest to the biblical scholar are in and about the holy city. There shafts have been sunk through the débris one hundred and twenty-five feet below the present surface of the ground. In those researches the foundation stones of the walls of the temple area were laid bare; Phœnician jars were found, on which are Phœnician characters; a subterranean passage was uncovered, a secret passage for troops from the citadel to the temple in times of danger; old aqueducts were brought to light; the ancient wall on Mount Ophel was traced hundreds of feet; the first wall on Mount Zion, and the probable site of the second wall, on which so much depends touching both the Temple and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, were discovered. The explorer has confirmed the historical statement of the glories of the temple of God, one thousand feet long and two hundred feet high, the grandest structure ever dedicated to divinity.
In their explorations they found fragments of earthenware at a depth of ninety feet, belonging to the city of the Jebusites, B.C. 1500; they uncovered pavements, one of mezzah stone, and between the pavements rubbish twenty feet deep, and under a second pavement was found Haggai’s seal, bearing the Hebrew inscription, “Haggai, son of Shebaniah,” B.C. 500. And in those depths of the ages were found lamps, dishes, stone weights, and a Phœnician jar, standing upright where the workmen of King Hiram of Tyre left it 3,000 years ago, and beautiful vases of black ware covered with crimson glaze. They were rewarded for their patient toil by uncovering immense columns, broken arches, vast vaults, the bases of great towers, and large water tanks, four hundred feet long, subterranean passageways, with their steps in situ, and strong triple gates; they exhumed the lower courses of Solomon’s city wall, seven hundred feet long and whereon are painted Phœnician characters in red paint, still bright, and they brought to light a stone cross inscribed, “The light of Christ shines forth for all.” For these magnificent results we are indebted to two Americans, Robinson and Barclay, and to two Englishmen, Warren and Conder.
In my visits to the holy city I experienced a keen regret that I was not treading the streets trodden by Christ and his apostles. They are hidden beneath the accumulated rubbish of ages. As I walked the crooked, neglected lanes of modern Jerusalem I felt I was treading upon the buried temples and palaces and avenues of Solomon’s glorious reign which await a resurrection by the spade, when the crescent goes down and the cross goes up. The regret I had experienced was relieved when I stood upon Mount Moriah, whose summit remains in its form and aspect as when Jesus “walked in Solomon’s Porch;” or when I crossed the little stone bridge which spans the Kedron, so often pressed by his weary feet; or when I sat on the slopes of Olivet and “beheld the city” which in its former majesty and glory rose before his divine vision.
Until the uncivilized and uncivilizing Turk is driven from the holy city, and until Christendom owns that religious metropolis of the world, and until the archæologist can pursue his noble work unmolested, two questions will remain in dispute—the site of Calvary and the site of the tomb of Joseph of Arimathea. Greeks and Latins claim that both are within the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, a claim which rests upon the traditions of centuries, but which can never be substantiated beyond a doubt until the second wall of the Jerusalem of Christ can be definitely traced. Both English and American explorers of to-day place Calvary on the ridge over the Grotto of Jeremiah, north of the city and near the Damascus Gate. From immemorial time this has been called the “Hill of Execution;” it resembles the human skull, and the Jews esteem it accursed, and exclaim as they pass it, “Cursed be he who destroyed our nation by aspiring to be king thereof.” And to the west of the hill, two hundred yards north of the Damascus Gate, on one side is a lane leading to St. Stephen’s Church, and opposite is an arched gateway of stone, with wooden door, which opens into a garden, and in the garden is the tomb. The tomb has never been finished, yet it has been occupied; its construction is Herodian, about the time of Christ; it has been occupied for only one burial; it is a Jewish tomb and designed for one of wealth and influence; it has been used for Christian worship, and upon its walls can now be traced faintly a frescoed cross with the sacred monograms.
Interesting and remarkable as are the recoveries thus far made, a larger future awaits the archæologist. There are venerable traditions which point to hidden vaults and subterranean passageways beneath ancient Jerusalem wherein were secreted during the last and fatal siege of the city the Ark of the Covenant, the autograph copy of the Pentateuch, and the sacred vessels of the temple which were brought back from Babylon, and these traditions have been confirmed by the excavations of the present day. And there is good reason to believe that St. Matthew’s gospel in Hebrew, together with some of the apostolic letters, were deposited in a place of security when the storm of persecution burst upon the Church in Jerusalem. A few inscriptions have been found and translated, illustrative of the Scripture record. A tablet has been recovered on which is an inscription in Greek—the characters are monumental in size—which is a notice to strangers not to pass through the sacred inclosure of the temple: “No stranger is to enter within the balustrade round the temple inclosure; whoever is caught will be responsible to himself for his death, which will ensue.” This recalls the episode recorded in Acts xxi, 26, when St. Paul, after his purification, was accused of introducing into the temple the Gentile Trophimus of Ephesus, which caused a riot, that was quelled by the intervention of the Tribune, who rescued Paul. In the Pool of Siloam there was discovered an inscription, the letters of which closely resemble those on the Moabite stone. On this tablet, twenty-seven inches square, is recorded in six lines a commemoration of the completion of the tunnel, which is a third of a mile long and connects the Virgin’s Fount with the Pool of Siloam, and dates back to the reign of Solomon. And at Bethphage a stone was uncovered on which are frescoes representing the raising of Lazarus and the triumphal procession in honor of our Lord, and strong arguments are adduced that on this stone the Saviour rested when he sent his disciples to the city. These are but intimations of the future, when biblical research can be carried forward unhindered by the greed of the Turk or the fanaticism of the Jew.
While we wait patiently for the incoming of that better day, Jerusalem is attracting the attention of all peoples. Palestine is still the “high bridge” of the nations, over which the commerce of the world must pass from west to east. The old saying of Scripture is still true: “I have set Jerusalem in the midst of the nations,” and for some wise purpose it is destined to be the religious metropolis of the world. Sixty thousand people dwell within her walls; eight thousand Turks hold the city and rule it with an iron hand. They have neither patriotism nor honor; they are robbers in the disguise of government officials. Forty-two thousand Jews have come from Spain, Poland, and the ends of the earth, who are paupers, and who divide their time between wailing over their departed glory and living on the charity of others. Ten thousand Christians are denizens of the once proud city, who stand guard over the “sacred places” and are the thrift and hope of the place. Four thousand orthodox Greeks and four thousand orthodox Latins watch each other with a jealous eye, and are ready for the fray whenever the “Silver Star of Bethlehem is stolen.” The Arminian Christians are merchant princes; the Syrians live on the venerable past; the Copts and Abyssinians are few and poor; and the four hundred Protestants represent the brain, the heart, the enterprise, the piety, and the charity of modern Jerusalem. They are American and Scotch Presbyterians, German Lutherans, and Anglican Episcopalians. They have founded hospitals, organized schools, built churches, created a healthful literature, and are the energy of public opinion. While many are waiting for the restoration of the Jews these noble Protestant Christians are preparing the way for the coming of the Lord, when Jerusalem shall be rebuilt and made holy and once again be the joy of the whole earth.