Title: After Icebergs with a Painter
Author: Louis Legrand Noble
Release date: February 8, 2018 [eBook #56529]
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Mardi Desjardins & the online Distributed
Proofreaders Canada team at http://www.pgdpcanada.net from
page images generously made available by the Internet
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After Icebergs
WITH A
PAINTER
ICEBERG AT SUNSET
D. APPLETON & Co. 443 & 445 BROADWAY
Lith. of Sarony Major & Knapp 449 Broadway NY.
AFTER ICEBERGS
WITH A PAINTER:
A
SUMMER VOYAGE TO LABRADOR AND AROUND
NEWFOUNDLAND.
BY
REV. LOUIS L. NOBLE,
AUTHOR OF THE “LIFE OF COLE,” “POEMS,” ETC.
NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
443 & 445 BROADWAY.
LONDON: 16 LITTLE BRITAIN.
M.DCCC.LXI.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1861,
By D. APPLETON & CO.,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern
District of New York.
TO
E. D. PALMER,
THE SCULPTOR,
THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY
Dedicated.
The title-page alone would serve for a preface to the present volume. It is the record of a voyage, during the summer of 1859, in company with a distinguished landscape painter, along the north-eastern coast of British America, for the purpose of studying and sketching icebergs.
It was thought, at first, that the shores in the neighborhood of St. Johns, Newfoundland, upon which many bergs are often floated in, would afford all facilities. It was found, however, upon experiment, that they did not. Icebergs were too few for the requisite variety; too scattered to be reached conveniently; and too distant to be minutely examined from land. One needed to be in the midst of them, where he could command views, near or remote, of all sides of them, at all hours of the day and evening.
For that purpose a small vessel was hired to take us to Labrador. Favoring circumstances directed us to Battle Harbor, near Cape St. Louis, in the waters of which icebergs, and all facilities for sketching them, abounded.
To diversify the journey, we returned through the Gulf of St. Lawrence, coasting the west of Newfoundland, and the shores of Cape Breton, and concluding with a ride across the island, and through Nova Scotia to the Bay of Fundy.
If the writer has succeeded in picturing to his reader, with some freshness, what he saw and felt, then will the purpose of the book, made from notes pencilled rapidly, have been accomplished.
L. L. N.
Hudson, New Jersey,
March, 1861.
| PAGE | |
| CHAPTER I. | |
| Cool and Novel, | 1 |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| On the Edge of the Gulf-Stream, | 5 |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| The Painter’s Story, | 8 |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Halifax, | 15 |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| The Merlin, | 19 |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Sydney.—Cape Breton.—The Ocean, | 23 |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| The first Icebergs, | 27 |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| Newfoundland.—St. Johns, | 30 |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| An English Inn.—The Governor and Bishop.—Signal Hill, | 33 |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| The Ride to Torbay.—The lost Sailor.—The Newfoundland Dog, | 38 |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Torbay.—Flakes and Fish-houses.—The Fishing-barge.—The Cliffs.—The Retreat to Flat Rock Harbor.—William Waterman, the fisherman, | 41 |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| The Whales.—The Iceberg.—The Return, and the Ride to St. Johns by Starlight, | 52 |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| St. Mary’s Church.—The Ride to Petty Harbor, | 60 |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Petty Harbor.—The Mountain River.—Cod-liver Oil.—The Evening Ride back to St. Johns, | 65 |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| The Church Ship.—The Hero of Kars.—The Missionary of Labrador, | 71 |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Sunday Evening at the Bishop’s.—The Rev. Mr. Wood’s Talk about Icebergs, | 74 |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Our Vessel for Labrador.—Wreck of the Argo.—The Fisherman’s Funeral, | 76 |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| Our First Evening at Sea, | 80 |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| Icebergs of the Open Sea.—The Ocean Chase.—The Retreat to Cat Harbor, | 82 |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| Cat Harbor.—Evening Service in Church.—The Fisherman’s Fire.—The Return at Midnight, | 89 |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| After Icebergs again.—Among the Sea-Fowl, | 93 |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| Notre Dame Bay.—Fogo Island and the Three Hundred Isles.—The Freedom of the Seas.—The Iceberg of the Sunset, and the Flight into Twillingate, | 96 |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| The Sunday in Twillingate.—The Morning of the Fourth, | 103 |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| The Iceberg of Twillingate, | 106 |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| The Freedom of the Seas once more.—A Bumper to the Queen and President, | 112 |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| Gull Island.—The Icebergs of Cape St. John, | 115 |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| The Splendid Icebergs of Cape St. John, | 121 |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| The Seal Fields.—Seals and Sealing.—Captain Knight’s Shipwreck, | 129 |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| Belle Isle and the Coast.—After-dinner Discussion.—First View of Labrador.—Icebergs.—The Ocean and the Sunset, | 135 |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| The Midnight Look-out Forward.—A Stormy Night.—The Comedy in the Cabin, | 143 |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| The Cape and Bay of St. Louis.—The Iceberg.—Cariboo Island.—Battle Harbor and Island.—The Anchorage.—The Missionaries, | 149 |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | |
| Battle Island and its Scenery, | 155 |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. | |
| Mosses, Odors, and Flowers.—A Dinner Party, | 161 |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. | |
| Our Boat for the Icebergs.—After the Alpine Berg.—Study of its Western Face, | 165 |
| CHAPTER XXXV. | |
| The Alpine Berg.—Studies of its Southern Front.—Frightful Explosion and Fall of Ice.—Studies of the Western Side.—Our Play with the Moose Horns.—Splendor of the Berg at Sunset, | 169 |
| CHAPTER XXXVI. | |
| Ramble among the Flowers of Battle Island.—A Visit to the Fishermen.—Walk among the Hills of Cariboo, | 179 |
| CHAPTER XXXVII. | |
| After the Bay St. Louis Iceberg.—Windsor Castle Iceberg.—Founders Suddenly.—A Brilliant Spectacle, | 184 |
| CHAPTER XXXVIII. | |
| Sunday in Labrador.—Evening Walk to the Graveyard.—The Rocky Ocean Shore, | 188 |
| CHAPTER XXXIX. | |
| The Sail to Fox Harbor.—A Day with the Esquimaux, and our Return, | 192 |
| CHAPTER XL. | |
| A Morning Ramble over Cariboo.—Excursion on the Bay, and the Tea-drinking at the Solitary Fisherman’s, | 196 |
| CHAPTER XLI. | |
| Painting the Cavern of Great Island, and our Sail Homeward in a Gale, | 200 |
| CHAPTER XLII. | |
| After the Iceberg of Belle Isle.—The Retreat to Cartwright’s Tickle.—Bridget Kennedy’s Cottage, and the Lonely Stroll over Cariboo, | 204 |
| CHAPTER XLIII. | |
| The Iceberg of the Figure-head.—The Glory and the Music of the Sea at Evening, | 210 |
| CHAPTER XLIV. | |
| Cape St. Charles.—The Rip Van Winkle Berg.—The Great Castle Berg.—Studies of its Different Fronts, | 214 |
| CHAPTER XLV. | |
| The Sail for St. Charles Mountain.—The Salmon Fishers.—The Cavern of St. Charles Mountain.—Burton’s Cottage.—Magnificent Scene from St. Charles Mountain.—The Painting of the Rip Van Winkle Berg.—The Ice-vase, and the Return by Moonlight, | 219 |
| CHAPTER XLVI. | |
| After our Last Iceberg.—The Isles.—Twilight Beauties of Icebergs.—Midnight Illumination, | 228 |
| CHAPTER XLVII. | |
| Farewell to Battle Harbor.—The Straits of Belle Isle.—Labrador Landscapes.—The Wreck of the Fishermen, | 236 |
| CHAPTER XLVIII. | |
| Sketching the Passing Bergs.—The Story of an Iceberg, | 241 |
| CHAPTER XLIX. | |
| Drifting in the Straits.—Retreat to Temple Bay.—Picturesque Scenery.—Voyager’s Saturday Night, | 264 |
| CHAPTER L. | |
| Sunday in Temple Bay.—Religious Services.—The Fisherman’s Dinner and Conversation.—Chateau.—The Wreck.—Winters in Labrador.—Icebergs in the Winter.—The French Officers’ Frolic with an Iceberg.—Theory of Icebergs.—Currents of the Strait.—The Red Indians.—The Return to the Vessel, | 267 |
| CHAPTER LI. | |
| Evening Walk to Temple Bay Mountain.—The Little Iceberg.—Troubles of the Night, and Pleasures of the Morning.—Up the Straits.—The Pinnacle of the Last Iceberg.—Gulf of St. Lawrence, | 274 |
| CHAPTER LII. | |
| Coast Scenery.—Farewell to Labrador, | 279 |
| CHAPTER LIII. | |
| Western Newfoundland.—The Bay, the Islands, and the Highlands of St. Johns.—Ingornachoix Bay, | 284 |
| CHAPTER LIV. | |
| Slow Sailing by the Bay of Islands.—The River Humber.—St. George’s River, Cape, and Bay.—A Brilliant Sunset, | 287 |
| CHAPTER LV. | |
| Foul Weather.—Cape Anguille.—The Clearing Off.—The Frolic of the Porpoises.—The New Cooks.—The Ship’s Cat, | 290 |
| CHAPTER LVI. | |
| St. Paul’s Island.—Cape North.—Coast of Cape Breton.—Sydney Light and Harbor.—The End of our Voyage to Labrador, and around Newfoundland, | 298 |
| CHAPTER LVII. | |
| Farewell to Captain Knight.—On our way across Cape Breton.—A Merry Ride, and the Rustic Lover, | 301 |
| CHAPTER LVIII. | |
| Evening Ride to Mrs. Kelly’s Tavern.—The Supper and the Lodging, | 306 |
| CHAPTER LIX. | |
| Sunday at David Murdoch’s.—Scenery of Bras d’Or, | 314 |
| CHAPTER LX. | |
| Off for the Strait of Canso.—St. Peters, and the Country.—David Murdoch’s Horses, and his Driving.—Plaster Cove, | 318 |
| CHAPTER LXI. | |
| Adieu to David and Cape Breton.—The Strait of Canso.—Our Nova Scotia Coach.—St. George’s Bay.—The Ride into Antigonish, | 322 |
| CHAPTER LXII. | |
| New Glasgow.—The Ride to Truro.—Railway Ride to Halifax.—Parting with the Painter, | 326 |
| CHAPTER LXIII. | |
| Coach Ride from Halifax to Windsor.—The Prince Edward’s Man, and the Gentleman from Newfoundland, | 329 |
| CHAPTER LXIV. | |
| Windsor.—The Avon, and the Tide.—Steamer for St. Johns, New Brunswick.—Mines Basin.—Coast Scenery.—The Scene of Evangeline.—Parsboro.—The Bay of Fundy.—Nova Scotia and New Brunswick Shores.—St. Johns.—The Maine Coast.—Island of Grand Manan, | 332 |
| PAGE | |
| No. 1.—VIGNETTE—ICEBERGS AT SUNSET, | 1 |
| No. 2.—A LARGE ICEBERG IN THE FORENOON LIGHT NEAR THE INTEGRITY, | 119 |
| No. 3.—AN ARCHED ICEBERG IN THE AFTERNOON LIGHT, | 136 |
| No. 4.—ICE FALLING FROM A LOFTY BERG, | 173 |
| No. 5.—ICEBERG IN THE MORNING MIST—WHALE-BOAT, | 214 |
| No. 6.—ICEBERG IN THE STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE, | 241 |
AFTER ICEBERGS WITH A PAINTER.
COOL AND NOVEL.
“After icebergs!” exclaims a prudent, but imaginary person, as I pencil the title on the front leaf of my note-book.
“Why, after deer and trout among the Adirondack Mountains with John Cheeney, the Leather-stocking of those wilds, who kills his moose and panther with a pistol; or after salmon on the Jaques Cartier and Saguenay, is thought to be quite enough for your summer tourist.
“After buffalo is almost too much for any not at home in the great unfenced, Uncle Sam’s continental parks, where he pastures his herds, and waters them in the Platte and Colorado, and walls out the Pacific with the Rocky Mountains. He is rather a fast hunter who indulges in the chase in those fair fields. It is no boy’s play to commit yourself to mule and horse, the yawls of the prairie, riding yourself sore and thirsty over the gracefully rolling, never-breaking swells, the green seas sparkling with dewy flowers, but never coming ashore. The ocean done up in solid land is weary voyaging to one whose youthful footsteps were over the fields, to the sound of sabbath bells.
“After ostriches, with the ship of the desert, although rather a hot chase for John and Jonathan over broad sands, yellow with the sunshine of centuries, and the bird speeding on legs swift as the spokes of the rapid wheels, is, nevertheless, a pleasure enjoyed now and then.
“But after icebergs is certainly a cool, if not a novel and perilous adventure. A few climb to the ices of the Andes; but after the ices of Greenland, except by leave of government or your merchant prince, is entirely another thing.
“You will do well to recollect, that nature works in other ways in the high north than in the high Cordilleras and Alps, and especially in the latter, where she carefully slides her mer-de-glace into the warm valley, and gently melts it off, letting it run merrily and freely to the sea, every crystal fetter broken into silvery foam. But in Greenland she heaves her mile-wide glacier, in all its flinty hardness, into the great deep bodily, and sends it, both a glory and a terror, to flourish or perish as the currents of the solemn main move it to wintry or to summer climes. After icebergs! Weigh well the perils and the pleasures of this new summer hunting.”
“We have weighed them, I confess, not very carefully; only ‘hefting’ them a little, just enough to help us to a guess that both are somewhat heavier than the ordinary delights and dangers of sporting nearer home. But, Prudens, my good friend, consider the ancient saw, ‘Nothing venture nothing have.’ Not in the least weary of the old, we would yet have something new, altogether new. You shall seek the beauties of scales and of plumage, and the graces of motion and the wild music of voices, among the creatures of the brooks and woodlands. Our game, for once, is the wandering alp of the waves; our wilderness, the ocean; our steed, the winged vessel; our arms, the pencil and the pen; our game-bags, the portfolio, painting-box, and note-book, all harmless instruments, you perceive, with mild report. It is seldom that they are heard at any distance, although, at intervals, the sound has gone out as far as the guns of the battle-field.
“Should we have the sport we anticipate, you may see the rarest specimen of our luck preserved in oil and colors, a method peculiar to those few, who intend their articles less for the market than for immortality, as men call the dim glimmering of things in the dusky reaches of the past.
“But you shall hear from us, from time to time, if possible, how we speed in our grand hunt, and how the pleasures and the risks make the scale of our experience vibrate. Within a few minutes, we shall be on our way to Boston, darting across grassy New England, regardless as the riders of the steeple-chase of cliff and gulf, fence, wall and river, with a velocity of wheels that would set the coach on fire, did not ingenuity stand over the axles putting out the flame with oil.
“This evening, we meet a choice few in one of those bowery spots of Brookline, where intelligence dwells with taste and virtue, and talk of our excursion.
“To-morrow, amid leave-takings, smiles and tears, and the waving of handkerchiefs, of which we shall be only quiet spectators, with the odor of our first sea-dinner seasoning the brief excitement of the scene, and all handsomely rounded off with the quick thunder of the parting gun, we sail, at noon, in the America.”