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Title: The Stocking-Knitter's Manual: A Handy Book for the Work-Table

Author: Mrs. George Cupples

Release date: June 4, 2018 [eBook #57273]

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Fay Dunn, John Campbell and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STOCKING-KNITTER'S MANUAL: A HANDY BOOK FOR THE WORK-TABLE ***

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE

The Table of Contents has been created by the Transcriber.

Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.

*1. Rosa Lindesay, the Light of Kilmain. By M. H., Editor of 'The Children's Hour.' Illustrated.

*2. Newlyn House, the Home of the Davenports. By A. E. W. Illustrated.

*3. Alice Thorne; or, A Sister's Work. Illustrated.

*4. Labourers in the Vineyard. By M. H., Editor of 'The Children's Hour.' Illustrated.

*5. The Children of the Great King. By M. H., Editor of 'The Children's Hour.' Illustrated.

*6. Little Harry's Troubles. By the Author of 'Gottfried of the Iron Hand.' Illustrated.

*7. Sunday School Photographs. By the Rev. Alfred Taylor, Bristol, Pennsylvania.

*8. Waymarks for the Guiding of Little Feet. By the Rev. J. A. Wallace.

*9. The Domestic Circle; or, The Relations, Responsibilities, and Duties of Home Life. By the Rev. John Thomson. Illustrated.

*10. Select Christian Biographies. By the Rev. James Gardner, A.M., M.D. Illustrated.

11. Ocean Lays. Selected by the Rev. J. Longmuir, LL.D. Illustrated.

12. Wilberforce's Practical View of Christianity. New and Complete Edition.

13. Communion Services, according to the Presbyterian Form. By the Rev. J. A. Wallace.

14. Attitudes and Aspects of the Divine Redeemer. By the Rev. J. A. Wallace.

15. The Redeemer and the Redemption. By the Rev. Alex. S Patterson, D.D.

16. A Pastor's Legacy. Edited by Rev. J. A. Wallace.

THE

Stocking-Knitter's Manual.

A Handy Book for the Work-Table.

BY

MRS. GEORGE CUPPLES.

EDINBURGH:
JOHNSTONE, HUNTER, AND CO.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Preface3
Directions for Working the different parts of a Stocking5
Stockings11
Socks26
Open-Work Patterns29

PREFACE.

These Patterns were compiled for the benefit of a friend, who had some pupils; and she having found them of service, and a saving of time, when engaged in teaching others, the writer has ventured to lay them before the public, in the hope that they may be of further use.

Now that so much time is occupied with the higher branches of education, and only an hour or so allotted to instruction in sewing, knitting, etc., the pupil leaves school in general with a very imperfect understanding of how to shape a stocking. It is not always convenient to get an old woman to assist at the 'turning of the heel;' and many parents cannot themselves knit—the last generation being sadly behind in this simple but useful art.

The present manual is intended for the benefit of those who already know a little about stocking-knitting, but who are not very sure of their own unassisted powers; and it will also prove serviceable to the teacher, as she may see at a glance how many stitches, etc., to cast on for the different sizes required by her pupils. In following the directions here given, the young knitter is advised not to be alarmed at the appearance of the stocking when first cast on, imagining that it is too wide; for as the knitting advances, the work becomes tighter of itself, till the top-band is finished. Besides, it is necessary to have a good many stitches on at first, which are gradually to be taken in during the process of shaping the leg, as the stocking is much narrower at the ankle than at the top.

Though the loom has done away in a great measure with the importance of stocking-knitting, still it is a pleasant and profitable, if homely, accomplishment; and, moreover, a fruitful resource, by way of pastime, for old age. It is to be hoped that at no time will this thrifty household acquirement be allowed to fall into disuse, for the sake of more ornamental occupations.

It may be interesting to know, that the art of knitting is first noticed about the sixteenth century; and, according to some, originated in Scotland, whence it found its way into France. It is related that, in 1564, a certain Wm. Ryder, an apprentice of Master Thomas Burdett, having seen accidentally, in the shop of an Italian merchant, a pair of knitted worsted stockings, made a pair exactly like them, which he presented to William, Earl of Pembroke, and that these were the first stockings knitted in England of woollen yarn.

Though the open-work patterns are not taken directly from any book, the writer feels bound to acknowledge, that she is much indebted to the instruction she herself received, through a valued teacher, from Mrs. Gaugain's excellent Knitting and Crochet Book, which is, however, too well known to require any recommendation.

A. J. C.

THE

STOCKING-KNITTER'S MANUAL.

Directions for Working the different parts of a Stocking.

The Leg.—The shaping of this part of the stocking is effected by means of 'intakes,' which are made by slipping off the 3d stitch on the right hand side of the seam-stitch without knitting it; then knit the next stitch, and take the slipped stitch over it; knit the next. On the left side, knit the 1st, slip the 2d, knit the 3d, and take the slipped stitch over. The rounds that are knitted between each intake must be quite distinct from it; that is, the round with the intakes on it is not to be counted. To make a good stocking, it is necessary to be particular with this part, that the shaping may be gradual.

The Heel.—When the ankle is finished, divide the stitches on to three of the knitting needles. Put one half of the stocking on to one needle, with the seam-stitch in the centre, and divide the other half equally on to the other two needles. For instance, if there be 61 stitches on the round, place 15 on each side of the seam-stitch—in all 31—on one needle, and 15 upon each of the other two. These two short rows are left till the heel is done. The long row should now be knitted 1 plain row, turn back, and knit it pearl. Work thus till a sufficient length is worked, being careful to slip off the first stitch of each row without knitting, as these form the stitches to be lifted in forming the foot. The top of the heel can now be worked in any of the different modes now described.

French Heel.—Begin it with the plain row, slip the stitch next the seam-stitch on the left side, knit the 2d, take the slipped stitch over, and knit the next, turn back, and knit 2 pearl and the seam-stitch. Then pearl 2 stitches together, knit 1 pearl and turn back. On the next row, slip the 2d stitch on the left of the seam, and knit the next; take it over, and knit 1 plain stitch, turn back, always increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam-stitch. When the heel is required to be wide, this pattern is very suitable.

Dutch Heel.—Slip the 5th stitch on the left side of the seam, knit the 6th, and take the slipped stitch over; turn back, and pearl the 5th and 6th together, at the other side. In small stockings, the 3d and 4th stitches; this makes a tighter heel.

Common Heel.—After a sufficient number of rows are knitted in the length of the heel, cast off the stitches, and sew it up very carefully. Though some people like it, it is not so suitable as the other two, as the sewing is apt to hurt the foot.

Preparations for Knitting the Foot.—Having finished the heel, proceed to pick up the stitches at the edge, beginning at the left side, with the needle on which the heel stitches are, knitting them as you lift them. With the fourth needle work off all the stitches on the two front needles. Now pick up the stitches on the right side of the heel; and having done that, work with the same needle to the centre of the heel. The seam-stitch is stopped here. In picking up the stitches, those that were left after knitting the top should be counted in. For example, if 30 stitches are required, and 9 have been left on each side of the seam, pick up only 21 on each side. The stocking is now in position for forming the gusset.

The 'Gusset' of the Foot.—Having picked up the stitches, and knitted round again to the right hand side of the back of the foot, knit the 1st stitch, slip the 2d, knit the 3d, and take the slipped stitch over. On the left hand needle, slip the 3d last stitch, knit the next, and take the slipped stitch over, and knit the last. Knit a plain round between every intake.

Note.—In knitting the plain part of the foot, leave off working the seam-stitch, and if the work should appear loose at the beginning or ends of the needles, change the stitches by knitting off a few on to the neighbouring needle; but care should be taken to replace them in the same position as they were in at the finishing of the gusset, as the intakes must correspond exactly with the back intakes of the toe.

Another Way.—Having picked up the stitches, work 3 stitches off the first front needle. Then take another needle, and work off all the stitches on the two front needles, with the exception of the 3 last. With another needle work off the 3 left stitches, and proceed to pick up the right side of the heel. In doing the intakes, knit together the 3d and 4th last stitches on the left side of the heel, and on the right slip the 3d. Knit the 4th, and take the slipped stitch over. Put back the 3 stitches after finishing the gusset.

Another Way of Turning the Heel and Knitting the Gusset.—This mode is recommended where the wearer has a high instep or a stout foot. In dividing the stitches for the heel, place from 4 to 8 stitches more, according to size, on the front of the foot, and fewer on the heel. For example, if there are 89 stitches on, place 20 on each side of the seam, and 48 on the front of the foot. Before beginning the intakes, increase 6 stitches on the 2d round at the back of the foot. Begin to increase about the middle of the left needle if the stocking is small, and a little nearer to the end if a large one. Make 1, knit 3 stitches; make 1, knit 3; make 1, knit 3. Then knit across the front to the right side of the back of the foot. Knit 3 plain, make 1; knit 3, make 1; knit 3, make 1. Knit round to this corner, and begin the intakes, same as described in either of the preceding ways. There will be from 4 to 8 stitches more, after finishing the gusset, than at the ankle.

The Toe.—Begin the intakes at the right hand corner of the long needle, or front of the foot. Knit the 1st, slip the 2d, knit the 3d, and take the slipped stitch over. Knit across to the end of the row, slip the 3d last stitch; knit the 2d, and take the slipped stitch over; knit the last. Do the same at the back, but only at the right and left hand corners. There must be no intakes in the centre of the foot. Proceed thus, with a plain round alternately, till you have reduced it to the number specified in the Patterns. Place the needles together, and work the front and the back rows off at the same time. Then cast off with the next row.

In measuring the work, use an inch measure, and lay the stocking under it flat on the table. Except where particularly specified, measure the leg independent of the top-band, and the foot from the last intake at the gusset.

As children invariably knit tightly, the needles ought to be chosen of a size coarser, to obviate this tendency. If, however, they should happen to work loosely, it would be advisable to take the numbers specified in the patterns.

If a strong heel is desired, use double worsted.

Explanation how to increase a Stitch.—To make the stitches divide better for the heel, it is sometimes necessary to increase one or two stitches. To do this: after drawing the worsted through the stitch, put the needle in at the back of the same, as if to pearl it, and draw the loop through it also, thus making two stitches out of one.