Title: Tent life with English Gipsies in Norway
Author: Hubert Smith
Release date: September 21, 2018 [eBook #57942]
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Anita Hammond, Wayne Hammond and the Online
Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
file was produced from images generously made available
by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
CARL XV.
KING OF NORWAY AND SWEDEN.
OBIIT 18 SEPT. 1872.
[The Right of Translation is reserved by the Author.]
In Memoriam.
DEDICATED
AS A SINCERE TRIBUTE
TO
HIS LATE MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY
CARL XV.
BY
THE KIND AND SPECIAL PERMISSION OF THIS
PRESENT MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY
OSCAR II.
KING OF NORWAY AND SWEDEN.
We awoke one morning; our gipsies were gone; our camp was gone; no light shining through as we lay in our tent. No freshness of the morning air; no wafted perfume of fragrant wild flowers; no music of the waterfall in the glen below. We were left to pursue the pathway of our journey alone.
Yet our notes de voyage remained to us. Impressions caught on the wayside of travel—written by the light of actual circumstance—we give them to our readers. They are a true episode in a life.
| PAGE | |
| Introduction | xxi |
| CHAPTER I. | |
|---|---|
| Norway—Our gipsy tent—Tent fittings—Cooking apparatus—Commissariat—Gipsies’ tent—Bagage de luxe—Weight of baggage—Transit—Donkeys—Our party—Esmeralda | 1 |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Gipsy equipment—Norwegian gipsies—Prœsten Eilert Sundt—The Hull steamer—The tourist’s friend—Our gipsy song | 11 |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| A friend’s misgiving—Dark forebodings—A sleepless night—The railway station—The Albion—A philosopher—The street boy—Distinguished travellers | 19 |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| England’s farewell—Summer tourists—The chevalier—Seafaring—A gipsy reception—Change of plans—Norwegian pilot—The Birmingham bagman—Inducement to authorship—Strange wills—A sailor’s philosophy—Icelandic language—Prognostications | 26 |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| A seaman’s adventures—The unfortunate tourist-An apt quotation—Freemasonry—Christiansand—Past recollections—The Runic stone—Overpayment—Two salmon fishermen—A traveller’s curiosity—Norwegian snakes—Scenery—We are one—Golden opinions | 36 |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| Mariner’s life—The evasive answer—A true presentiment—The King of Norway and Sweden—The beautiful fjord—Gipsy music—A custom-house difficulty—Another Freemason—Appropriate verses Christiania—Horse money—17, Store Strandgade | 46 |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| The Victoria Hotel—The Gipsies’ friend—The passe-partout-Prœsten Eilert Sundt—The Christiania railway—Our donkeys appreciated—Gipsy spirit—The “tolk”—Norwegian money—Linguistic difficulties—Gipsy authors—Gipsy numerals—Departure from Christiania | 54 |
| CHAPTER VIII. | |
| A Norwegian officer—Norwegian emigration—Eidsvold—The Skydskiftet—Quiet retreat—Happy hours—Baiersk öl—Esmeralda’s toilette—The transformation—Curious address—New acquaintance—Noah’s engagement—Noah’s conquest—An ungrateful visitor—A reluctant parting | 64 |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Moderate bill—Provisions lost—We meet again—Gipsies in advance—Left alone—A welcome telegram—Norwegian bath room—Singular paintings—Once more farewell—The telegraph clerk—The Mjösen Lake—The Dronningen—Ruined cathedral—Utilitarianism—Lillehammer—Once more in camp | 75 |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Our first camp—Camp visitors—Gipsy music-Foreign tableau—Curious observations—Preparations for departure—Early start—Laing’s suggestions—The Gudbransdalen—The Hunnefos—The Australian meat—Camp rules—The pair of gloves—Sudden Shadows—Our talisman—New friends | 89 |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Night alarm—The Puru Rawnee—Donkeys admired—Norwegian ponies—Our gipsy life—Norwegian flowers—Wild forest—The pipe of tobacco—Pictures of imagination—The crippled man—Camp near Holmen—Noah’s self-denial—Wet night—Peasant girls’ serenade—Zachariah’s gaiety—Lovely nature—Norwegian newspaper—The mystery explained—Frokost spoilt | 102 |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Unsuccessful fishing—A military officer—The dernier ressort—Our gipsy reception—Interrupted toilette—Fête champêtre—Dancing on the greensward—Tincture of cedar—The disappointment—The Losna Vand—The kettle prop lost—Peasant children—Interesting discussions—Writing under difficulties—The kindly heart | 118 |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Wet travelling—Vodvang—Our Russian lamp—Swedish visitors—All well—Our hobbinengree—The child of nature—Guitar songs—The village beau—Merles gone—The musketos’ victory—More rain—Scotch traveller—Timber floaters—Gipsies—Enraged Englishman—The frightened skydskarl—Gipsies’ endurance—The Listari commotion—Listad scenery | 129 |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| A gorgio—Comfortable bondegaards—More speile—The lost key—Den Asen toujours—Vegetable substitute—The goodlo discussion—Wives’ utility—Friendly peasants—Norwegian waltz—Gipsy chaff—The dark woman—Anxious querists—Early visitors—Timid woman—Gipsies appreciated—The charming post-mistress—The mansion near Harpe Brö | 145 |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| The velocipede—Roadside halt—Lovely scenery—Disappointed audience—The little gipsy—The lost pocket—The search—Gipsy lamentation—Amused peasant girls—Norwegian honesty—The pocket found—A noble heart—Pleasant voyageurs—Patrins—Storklevstad—Tambourine lost—Norwegian honesty—Eccentric visits—Interrogatory—The captain—The interview—The village magnate—Meget godt—Esmeralda in camp—The last visit—The moorland maiden | 158 |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Colonel Sinclair—Qvam church—Death of Sinclair—Monsieur le Capitaine—The Highflyer—The Hedals—Romantic legend—Antique mansion—The Kringelen—Kind reception—Warm welcome—The broken tent-pole—The reindeer hunter—The Rudane Fjelde—Gipsy-looking woman—More fish—Chiromancy Esmeralda’s fortune—The handsome captain—His sporting adventure—Esmeralda’s gift—Our soirée dansante—Gipsies’ glee | 174 |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Gipsies’ affection—Laurgaard adieu—Beautiful gorges—Onward ever—Esmeralda’s Irish song—Dovre—Friendly travellers—The Landhandelri—The Herr Tofte—King’s visit—Our night camp—Night disturbance—Kindness to animals—Our beautiful bouquet—Snehætten Fjeld—Dombaas—Comfortable situation—Wild scenery—Opportune visit—Illusory hope | 190 |
| CHAPTER XVIII. | |
| The new tent pole—What is indigestion?—Peasants at camp—A new friend—Holaker station—Norwegian honesty—Lœsje Vand—The tetteramengry—An unsolved mystery—The gipsy collapse—Good advice—Interest in donkeys—A mountain district—No church bells—The boy’s questions—The Kjölen Fjeldene | 202 |
| CHAPTER XIX. | |
| Esmeralda at the lake—Our cadeau—The visitors—Disappointment—An Adonis—The silent visit—The old mill—A Norwegian fox—The Puru Rawnee’s fall—The forest scene—Zachariah’s torment—Under discipline—Music in the forest—Distant admirers—The English hunter’s gift—Our gipsies fishing—The militia camp—Silent visitor—Ornamental fladbröd—A forest concert | 213 |
| CHAPTER XX. | |
| Noah unwell—The tine—New scenes—The leper—Hasty departure—Lesjevœrks Vand—Well met—Agreeable wanderers—Specialty of travel—Delicious trout—Lake scenery—Norwegian postman—Night visitor—More tourists—Molmen church | 227 |
| CHAPTER XXI. | |
| The Rauma—A lofty climb—More rain—The forest walk—Tent life—Peasant fête—Norwegian dancing—Zachariah’s ride—The wood carvings—A psalmodion—Stueflaaten—The Romsdal—Magnificent scenery—English spoken | 237 |
| CHAPTER XXII. | |
| The Dontind—Ormein—Mountain road—Our bivouac—Delighted visitor—The water elf—Excited gipsies—Tage en Stol—Norwegian girls—Sunday on the Rauma—Carriole travelling—Coming to grief—“Spille” a little—Esmeralda’s birthday—The Norwegian climate—The Sjiriaglns—Uncomfortable bed—The large ant | 248 |
| CHAPTER XXIII. | |
| Musical peasant—Cascades—The leaning-stone—The serious peasant—Zachariah ill—No ventilation—The Magician’s Peaks—The Mangehöe—“Ramulous”—Romantic valley—Agreeable visitors—The serenade—Future route—Horgheim—Rip van Winkle | 261 |
| CHAPTER XXIV. | |
| The invalid—Restive donkeys—Fiva—Aak—Veblungsnœs—The Norwegian farmer—The grassy knoll—A Norwegian town—The fjord’s shore—The Veblungsnœs’ baths—Herr Solberg—Homme galant—Musical conversazione—Gipsy music | 273 |
| CHAPTER XXV. | |
| Purchases—Zachariah’s trouble—Esmeralda’s photograph—The kiöd—Price of meat—The yachtsmen—The three peaks—The spirit-world—Frost-bites—Ultima Thule—Esmeralda galvanised—The fjord—Heen Kirke—Parelius—Eider ducks—Beautiful bouquets | 285 |
| CHAPTER XXVI. | |
| Our guide—To the mountains—Mystic light—The photographs—The “Claymore” yacht—Norwegian gipsies—Singular race—Occupations—Gipsy burials—Romantic love—Predestination—The bondegaard—The high demand—Esmeralda’s souvenir | 297 |
| CHAPTER XXVII. | |
| Adieu, Aak—Romsdalshorn—Troldtinderne—Fladmark—Young Norwegian ladies—Our fair visitors—A night scene—Morning meal—Exhausted peasants—Esmeralda’s compliment—A gipsy cuisine—How gipsies sleep—Our guide arrives—The invisible bather—The race—The river Gröna | 307 |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. | |
| Botanising—Esmeralda lost—Found again—The Eagle—Mountain difficulties—Mountain bivouac—Esmeralda ill—Ole’s bed—Hotel bills—Rough route—Donkeys in snow—The Puru Rawnee down—The Ny sœter—Gipsy discussion—The Englishman’s house—Hospitality—Norwegian names—Fillingshö—Large lake | 319 |
| CHAPTER XXIX. | |
| The peasants’ wood—Skeaker—Our fair visitor—Esmeralda’s indignation—The gipsy hornpipe—The fate of Ezekiel—Feeble advocacy—The Rankny rackly—The Otta Vand | 332 |
| CHAPTER XXX. | |
| The wasps’ nest—Lom—Kind friends—Songs of Björnsen—The Prœsten’s ministration—The repulsed student—Beautiful valley—The two artists—The Bœver Elven—Rödsheim—The ravine—The lost stardy—Ascent of Galdhöpiggen—The highest mountain in Norway—The night ascent—The dome of snow—The sunrise | 340 |
| CHAPTER XXXI. | |
| The reindeer’s fate—Desolate scene—Several ascents—The frightened peasants—A coat lost—Esmeralda’s views—Absent treasures—Ole re-engaged—A new kettle prop—The handsome artist—Comfortable station—Adieu, Rödsheim—Our excellent guide—Crossing the bridge—Zachariah’s escape | 352 |
| CHAPTER XXXII. | |
| The Elv Sœter—A mountaineer—The Ytterdal Sœter—To make gröd—The gröd stick—Evening concert—A wild night—The waterfall—Mountain glaciers—The Lera Elv—Camp by a glacier—Nomadic happiness—A gipsy maëlstrom—Insect life | 363 |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. | |
| The Virgin Peak—Esmeralda in the Lera—A dripping Nereid—Heavy clouds—The Church Mountain—Wild reindeer—Where’s the tea?—Singular glacier—Valley of red sandstone—The Hunter’s Cave—The Utladal Stöl—The Mumpley Valley—Flödsgröd—A mountain stöl—A rough path—The Puru Rawnee’s escape—The narrow bridge | 374 |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. | |
| A difficult crossing—Again en route—Skögadal Sœter—Sœter accommodation—Splendid scenery—The Skögadals Elv—The mysterious bone—Mountain exploration—The pack horses—A slippery floor—Music in the Sœter—Flœskedal Stöl—The Mörk Fos—Magnificent fall—The cliff’s edge—The iris—All pay and no comfort—A reindeer shot—The deserted farm—A mountain shadow | 389 |
| CHAPTER XXXV. | |
| The Meisgrie—We cross a river—The slippery rock—An active guide—The carrier’s aid—The lame horse—Melkedalstinderne—The stony way—The Nedrevand—Ole’s night quarters—The lake by moonlight—Early rising—Eisbod on the Bygdin Lake—The poet’s house—Vinje, the poet—The poetical mortgage—Pleasant acquaintance—Old Norwegian poetry—The reindeer hunter—Esmeralda condoned | 404 |
| CHAPTER XXXVI. | |
| Lake Tyen—The Tourist Club châlet—Lortwick Sœter—Lake driftwood—A cold morning—A cheap meal—Thunder in the air—Sunshine again—The separation—The gallant Ole farewell—To Christiania—Energy always—Push on—The Bergen road—The violinist—One dollar more—Picturesque scene | 420 |
| CHAPTER XXXVII. | |
| Camp on Lille Mjösen—The Skjyri Fjeld—An acquaintance from Eisbod—Camp rules confirmed—Our gipsy Noah—English spoken—Singular stone—Öiloe station—Our friend from Eisbod—Artist souvenirs—Zachariah’s sport—Fast travelling—Harvest time—Secluded camp—Able pleading—The Stee Station—Obliging hostess—Tether rope lost—The kindly welcome—An Englishman’s wish—An open-air concert—Esmeralda’s flowers—Adieu, but remembered—A mid-day rest | 433 |
| CHAPTER XXXVIII. | |
| An English fisherman—The haunted mill—The tourist’s purchase—Noah’s good fortune—The Strand Fjord—A woman’s curiosity—The heroine of our book—A Norwegian seaman—The mistaken mansion—The Aurdal church—Frydenlund Station—A roadside halt—The appreciated gift—The severe young lady—The kind-hearted peasant—Krœmmermoen—Impulse and reason | 449 |
| CHAPTER XXXIX. | |
| The gipsy signal—Our Australian meat—The fair poetess—Our friend from Eisbod ill—The Rye’s unwell—The Lehnsmœnd of Bang—The ferryman and son—We cross to Beina—Tatersprog—A kind family—Storsveen Station—Secluded valley—A tourist lels us—Esmeralda’s adventure—The peasant women’s song—Sorum Station—Tents pitched by a lagoon—Nœs—No horseboat—Impromptu horseboat—How we got across—A river scene | 460 |
| CHAPTER XL. | |
| We leave the Beina—The Lille pige—Any port in a storm—The fairies’ visit—The Spirilen—Ytre Aadalen Val—Large bondegaard—Heen woodland camp—Evening visitors—The Hönefos—Intelligent postmaster—Norderhoug church—Halt near Vik—The gipsies’ political philosophy—Noah and the philanthropist Steens Fjord—The Krogkleven—Beautiful gorge—Camp near the King’s View | 477 |
| CHAPTER XLI. | |
| Summer waning—Norwegian scenery—Splendid views—The cross fire—Sorte Död—Romantic camp—Mandy’s a Rye—The tourist’s dog—The Hobbenengree’s surprise—The Baron at Bœrums Verk—Snake killed near our tent—Our last night in camp—Adieu, camp life | 490 |
| CHAPTER XLII. | |
| Christiania—Generous offer—Advice we do not take—The paper-viken fishermen—Christophersen’s—Norway, farewell—Donkeys’ accommodation—Want of feeling—Our steward—The gipsies’ friends—The Spanish courier—The literary American—The gipsies’ mal de mer—The donkeys in a smoke room—The lost necklace—England’s shore—To our readers | 500 |
| CHAPTER XLIII. | |
| Alluring promises—Compliment to Englishmen—True sketches of gipsy life—The gipsies’ origin—Yet a mystery—Esmeralda—Noah and Zachariah—Before the curtain—The end | 511 |
| Appendix | I. | 517 |
| Appendix | II. | 527 |
| Appendix | III. | 529 |
| Appendix | IV. | 532 |
| Appendix | V. | 538 |
⁂ The engravings are by Edward Whymper, author of “Scrambles amongst the Alps,” and have been taken from sketches made by the author during his wanderings in Norway, or from photographs obtained by him specially for this work.
Since the succeeding pages were written, Norway and Sweden have mourned the death of their King, Carl XV., at Malmoe, on the 18th September, 1872.
The dedication of this work is, therefore, with the kind and special permission of his present Majesty, King Oscar II., inscribed “In Memoriam.” Thus the work opens to the reader with a shadow of melancholy; for, in our experience, few kings have had the love and affection of their subjects in a greater degree.
One memorable event marked the close of his late Majesty’s reign, as if to illumine the last sands of the hour-glass of his life—the millennial period of the unity of Norway as one kingdom was accomplished on the 19th July, 1872.
A thousand years had elapsed since Harald Haarfager (the Fair Hair) gained the battle of Hafsfjord, and united Norway under one crown.1
At Hafsfjord, by a strange coincidence, King Harald Haarfager, having reigned, it is said, from about 861 to 931, was buried, according to the ancient sagas, near the town of Haugesund, not far from the scene of his memorable victory, the last of a series of conquests which gave to Norway one king.
The battle of Hafsfjord also accomplished King Harald’s vow, and gave to him the hand of Gyda, the handsome daughter of Eric, King of Hordaland, who, in answer to his proposals, had said, she would never throw herself away, even to take a king for a husband, who had only a few districts to rule over.2
The obelisk of granite, erected near Haugesund, on the grave of Harald Haarfager, to commemorate the event, is seventy feet high. Surrounding its base, twenty-one pillars, eight feet high, are inscribed with the names of the twenty-one petty kingdoms, into which ancient Norway was formerly divided. Bronzed reliefs on the pedestal record that Harald Haarfager is buried beneath, and that the monument was erected one thousand years after he had consolidated Norway into one kingdom.
At a grand National Jubilee Festival, at Haugesund, on the 19th July, 1872, his present Majesty the King of Norway and Sweden,3 then Prince Oscar, with a large assemblage of the people of Norway, inaugurated the monument.
The day was fine, and the associations of a thousand years carried the mind back through the far distance of time to the battle of Hafsfjord, when, to apply the words of “Sigvat the Scald,”—
His late Majesty was also a poet and an artist. Two interesting volumes of the late King’s poems, entitled “En Samling Dikter” (a collection of poems), and “Smärre Dikter” (short poems) are the scintillations of a bright and imaginative mind—“Till Sverige” (To Sweden), “Borgruinen” (the Castle Ruins), “Fjerran” (Afar), “Ensamheten” (solitude), “Trosbekännelse” (Confession of Faith), “I drömmen” (I Dream), “Hvar bor Friden” (Where dwelleth Peace), “Kallan” (The Fountain), “Ziguenerskan” (The Gipsy Girl), with other poems form the Innehål, or contents of the “Smärre Dikter.” The larger volume—“En Samling Dikter”—includes “Heidi Gylfes Dotter” (Heidi Gylfe’s Daughter), “En Viking Gasaga” (A Viking Saga)4 “Hafsfrun” (The Mermaid), “Tre Natter” (Three Nights), and several other poems.
The full-paged portrait of his late Majesty Carl XV. is an excellent likeness. He was cast in Nature’s most perfect mould; whilst his mind had true greatness and noble-hearted chivalry.
It is beautifully engraved by the author of “Scrambles Amongst the Alps,” indeed, this and the engravings illustrating this work, which have all been taken from original sketches of the author, or photographs obtained specially for the work, are by Mr. Edward Whymper,5 to whom the author is much indebted for his prompt attention, when a very short space of time could only be allowed for their completion.
An additional interest will also be felt by the reader in knowing that the work is true, even to the names of the gipsies.
So must close our Introduction; and, as we look back to our tented wanderings, they seem as a bright summer’s day, whose sun, setting on the horizon of our fate, reflects itself, though with imperfect gleams, within this book, whilst the day is gone for ever!
7th May, 1873.
MAP
Showing the Route and Camping grounds
of the
ENGLISH GIPSIES
through
NORWAY.
Henry S. King & Co, 65 Cornhill, London.
“The best books are records of the writer’s own experiences of what he himself has seen or known, or—best of all—has done. The writing then becomes naturally concrete, perspicuous, a mirror of the fact; and whether it be a book for the world and for ages, or for nations and generations, there is this common to them all, that they are genuine records of genuine things, and throw light on the subject.”—N. P. Willis.
NORWAY—OUR GIPSY TENT—TENT FITTINGS—COOKING APPARATUS—COMMISSARIAT—GIPSIES’ TENT—BAGAGE DE LUXE—WEIGHT OF BAGGAGE—TRANSIT—DONKEYS—OUR PARTY—ESMERALDA.
The picturesque and lovely scenes of Norway offered many inducements for our campaign. The peculiar advantages of tent life would enable us to wander in its wildest Dals. Its beautiful fjelds, fjords, and fosses could be seen at our ease. We might bivouac in the silent forest; we could sleep in its lonely glens, and wander in its deepest recesses, independent of the chance accommodation of the “gjœstgiver-gaard,” or the more doubtful comfort of the mountain “sœter.” The result of a former visit had not been without its practical utility, and the tent carried the day.
In previous travels we had used many kinds of tents, including Mr. Whymper’s very useful Alpine Tent. For this campaign we had a new one made, such as gipsies use. All experience inclined us to adopt this form of tent as the most comfortable.6 It was made by gipsies, whom we had often befriended in our search after gipsy lore,—and who now no longer regarded us with distrust, as belonging to the kairengroes (house-dwellers). When it was completed, my people declared it was the best they had ever seen. A stout back pole, with strong pliable raniers or rods, fitted into it, and a cover made of two pairs of light gray blankets, of strong but fine texture, sewn together, with a broad edging of scarlet bocking, gave it an appearance which the gipsies declared to be perfection.
The interior fittings of our tent were not neglected. One of Edgington’s waterproofs costing twenty-five shillings, was laid on the ground as a substratum. A handsome carpet, of strong but light material and warm colouring, was cut to the size of the tent as usually pitched, and then neatly bound with scarlet braid by my housekeeper, who made nearly everything used for the expedition. When the carpet was placed on the waterproof rug, it formed an excellent floor to the tent. Our large railway-rug, which had been with us all round the world, was still serviceable. An extra rug for use if necessary, and two air pillows covered with scarlet flannel, completed the bed accommodation. A blue partition-curtain, with broad yellow braid artistically elaborated in zigzag pattern, to be suspended à volonté from the tent raniers for privacy and seclusion, left nothing more to be desired. We had not yet sunk so low in effeminacy as to use beds, though there are instances of gipsies in England who have descended to that melancholy state.
It was necessary that our batterie de cuisine should be as simple as possible. In the first place we had our kettle prop which had done duty in camp life in the previous year. A kettle prop is a stout bar of iron bent at one end so as to have a projecting portion for hanging the kettle upon to boil water. The other end of the prop is sharpened so as to make holes in the ground to fix the tent raniers or rods into. (The three stakes joined together at the top, with a large witch’s caldron suspended over the fire, as seen in many representations of gipsy life, have now passed away with the gipsies’ scarlet cloaks once so fashionable.) We had our large fish kettle for boiling anything; our tin can for boiling and making tea for four persons; two larger tin cans for boiling or fetching milk or water, all with lids; two large zinc bowls; four smaller soup bowls, fitting one within the other; a round tin with lid to hold three pounds of butter; a quart tin can with handle; two sets of tin pannikins, four each set, fitting one within the other;7 eight pewter plates; seven knives and six forks; eight spoons; a tin salt box; a tin pepper box; a sardine box opener; a frying pan, with handle to remove; a tin box containing the exact measure of tea for four persons. This was very useful, not only for economy, but in wet weather,—the box, being filled in the tent, could be carried in the hand,—in readiness for the boiling water. A Russian lamp; a small axe; two tin boxes of wax lucifer matches, and eight small cloths for cleaning, completed our service de ménage. All the articles enumerated could be conveniently put into the fish-kettle, except the two large cans, the two large bowls, the pewter plates, the frying-pan, and one or two other articles. These were all placed at one end of a bag called the kettle-bag, tied in the middle; our bags of tea and sugar, &c., for present use, being placed at the other end, ready to be slung over the donkey for transit.8
Our commissariat was selected with a care commensurate to the requirements of the expedition and of the four hungry voyageurs to be fed.
Our provisions were procured at Hudson Brothers, Ludgate Hill, London (with whom we had before had dealings), and were all we could desire for quality. Our purchase included 28lbs. of Australian meat (costing 7½d. per lb.)—which for the first time, we ventured, with some hesitation, to take—two hams, some bacon, a dozen boxes of sardines, 2 cheeses, a number of jars of Liebig’s essence of meat, some tins of potted meats, 2 tins of biscuits,—some of which were college biscuits,—rice, oat-meal, pea flour, beans, &c.; which, together with 12lbs. of tea from Messrs. Phillips, King William Street, in small bags of 3lbs. each, were placed in a large stout “pocket” as far as space would allow, and then packed in a wooden case, and forwarded to the care of Messrs. Wilson & Co., Hull, ready for the steamer. The weight of the provisions when sent, was 150lbs. These articles, with 30lbs. of sugar in six small bags of 5lbs. each, which we had before forwarded to Hull, completed our stock of provisions for the expedition.
The gipsies brought their own tent rods; we found blankets for the tent cover. The gipsies’ tent cover is formed of two blankets, fastened with pin thorns over their tent frame of raniers or rods. They had for use one of Edgington’s waterproofs and two double blankets.
We also took a railway rug ornamented with foxes’ heads, which we often used with the aid of our Alpine stocks, as a balk to keep off the wind, and to close in the space between our tents when we required more room or shelter. We had, besides, a very large but exceedingly light waterproof sheeting, purchased from Edmiston, made to loop over our tents, so as to enlarge them considerably and protect us from heavy rain. The blanket covers of our tents were not waterproof; and this waterproof sheeting, which only weighed 4½ lbs., was invaluable. When we were resting during the day, it effectually protected our provisions, baggage, and ourselves from the heavy showers of rain which sometimes occurred during our wanderings.
Our additional baggage consisted of one salmon rod, three trout rods, four Alpine stocks, two long ropes for tethering the animals, a fishing basket, a tin box with padlock, a musical box, a moderate allowance of clothes, a small tin of blacking with brushes, hair brushes and combs, soap, towels, pocket mirrors, writing-case, maps, stout straps, books (guide books and others), fishing tackle, &c., two courier bags with locks, and a plaid haversack, which contained a small case of medicaments for use when we were beyond all chance of medical advice—for, although fresh air is peculiarly health-giving, there were times and seasons when we had to officiate as the “cushty drabengro” (good doctor) of the party. We had also in this plaid bag a silver-mounted glass flask of imposing appearance, which was kept filled with Brændeviin, to be poured out into a thick-set, solid-looking drinking glass, that had been purchased, once upon a time, at Épernay, in France; it was fitted to stand the hard usage of this world, even to receiving libations of brændeviin instead of champagne. The glass is still unbroken, and ready to do duty in another campaign; and when we look at it, our brain becomes puzzled as to the number of bold Norwegians whose lips it has touched as they quaffed its contents to gamle Norge.
The weight of baggage is given in the following divisions:—
The kettle and articles packed into it weighed 10½ lbs.; bowls and pewter plates, packed separately, 6¾ lbs.; the frying pan, 3½ lbs.; our boiling can for making tea for our party, four in number, 1¼ lbs.; our large boiling can, for a larger number than four persons, weighed 1¾ lbs.; the large iron kettle-prop, 6 lbs. 6 ozs., making the total weight of cooking apparatus and service de ménage, 30 lbs. 2 ozs.
The tent rods and pole weighed 14½ lbs.; the tent blanket, cover, and partition-curtain, 17½ lbs.; large waterproof siphonia cover, 4½ lbs.; small spade to dig trenches round tent in wet weather, 1 lb. 15 ozs.; total weight, 38 lbs. 7 ozs.
One of Edgington’s waterproof rugs, the tent carpet, two rugs, and two air-pillows, weighed, together, 20 lbs.
Our large tent and fittings, with cooking apparatus and service de ménage, therefore weighed 88 lbs. 9 ozs.; and with books, fishing-rods, clothes, the provisions, and other baggage, made a total of about 360 lbs. weight, which allowed 120 lbs. for each donkey to carry.
The method of transit for baggage of all kinds, that impediment to rapid movement, required careful consideration. We had 360 lbs. weight of baggage to carry across the sea, to take with us through the valleys of Norway, to convey over mountains, and rugged paths, across rivers and shaky wooden bridges. The kind of animal suited to our expedition had also to be considered; ponies and mules had their claims. Excellent ponies might be purchased in Norway upon our arrival, but then we had the risk of delay. If we took mules they were oftentimes vicious and troublesome. At last we commissioned a gipsy to purchase three strong donkeys, to be specially selected for the purpose. It is said in one of Dickens’s works, that no one ever saw a dead donkey or a dead postboy—and this inspired additional hope that the animals would survive the journey. We had no reason to regret our choice. Donkeys will endure want of food better than even mules or horses; they are patient, quiet, and tractable; they soon take to the camp, and seldom stray far. The weight would be about 120 lbs. each, decreasing as they progressed on their journey. A strong donkey has been known to carry for a short distance, 4 cwt., but this is exceptional; 200 lbs. for a journey on good roads they can manage without difficulty; for rough mountain roads and paths, this load ought to be reduced to less than 100 lbs. Donkeys were much valued in early times; and in New South Wales they were recently more expensive than horses. Fortunately our gipsy was able to procure them at a moderate rate; and in a short time I was the possessor—to use gipsy language—of three “cushty merles” (good donkeys). They were to travel with the gipsies’ camp until we were ready to start, and so become used to camp-life. Very good ones they were:9