Title: The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth century
Author: Charles John Ffoulkes
Release date: November 23, 2019 [eBook #60767]
Most recently updated: October 17, 2024
Language: English
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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE
Footnote anchors are denoted by [number], and the footnotes have been placed at the end of each chapter or Appendix. The numbers [376] to [383] in Appendix C are part of the quoted document, and are not footnotes.
Basic fractions are displayed as ½ ¼ ⅜ etc; the only other fraction is one-sixteenth, displayed as 1/16. Currency (shillings and pence) is displayed as a/b or a/-, for example 4/8 is 4 shillings and 8 pence, 2/- is two shillings.
The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.
Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.
UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME
PASTE By A. Beresford Ryley
THE ARMOURER
AND HIS CRAFT
FROM THE XIth TO THE XVIth CENTURY
By CHARLES FFOULKES, B.Litt.Oxon.
WITH SIXTY-NINE DIAGRAMS IN THE TEXT AND THIRTY-TWO PLATES
METHUEN & CO. LTD.
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON
First Published in 1912
Printed in Great Britain
TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
THE VISCOUNT DILLON, Hon. M.A. Oxon.
V.P.S.A., Etc. Etc.
CURATOR OF THE TOWER ARMOURIES
I do not propose, in this work, to consider the history or development of defensive armour, for this has been more or less fully discussed in works which deal with the subject from the historical side of the question. I have rather endeavoured to compile a work which will, in some measure, fill up a gap in the subject, by collecting all the records and references, especially in English documents, which relate to the actual making of armour and the regulations which controlled the Armourer and his Craft. At the same time it is impossible to discuss this branch of the subject without overlapping in some details the existing works on Arms and Armour, but such repetition has only been included because it bears directly on the making, selling, or wearing of armour.
I have intentionally omitted all reference to the sword and other weapons of offence, for this would have unduly increased the size of the present work, and the subject is of such importance that it deserves a full consideration in a separate volume.
The original limits of this work have been considerably enlarged since it was offered as a thesis for the Degree of Bachelor of Letters in the University of Oxford in the Michaelmas Term, 1911. A polyglot glossary has been included, as this is a detail which has been practically overlooked by all English writers. The subject of Arms and Armour has not, up to the present time, received the attention in England that it deserves, but I would be the first to admit the value of the works of Meyrick and Hewitt, which are the foundations upon which German and French as well as all English authors have based their investigations. At the same time it should be remembered that these two authors were pioneers, and statements which they made have been contradicted or modified by more recent research. Two examples of this will suffice. Meyrick named the upstanding neck-guards on the pauldron the “passguards” and the neck-armour of the horse the “mainfaire.” From the researches of Viscount Dillon we learn that the passguard was a reinforcing piece for the joust and the mainfaire was a gauntlet (main de fer.) Both these mistakes are still perpetuated in foreign works on the subject, which shows the influence of Meyrick’s work even at the present day.
The subject of the Armourer and his Craft has never received much attention in England, even at the hands of Meyrick and Hewitt. On the Continent, however, writers like the late Dr. Wendelin Boeheim, Gurlitt, Buff, and Angellucci have all added greatly to our store of information on the subject. Boeheim’s work on the Armourers of Europe (Meister der Waffenschmiedekunst) is the only work in any language which has given us some account of the armour craftsmen of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and I should be indeed remiss if I did not take this opportunity of acknowledging the assistance which this collection of biographies has been in the preparation of the present work. Signori Gelli and Moretti have collected interesting documents relating to the Missaglia family, but apart from this no other writers have made a study of the Armourer.
Gay’s Encyclopædia, which unfortunately was cut short after the letter G by the death of the author, is also invaluable as far as it goes, in that it gives in every case contemporary references relating to the use of each word. The late J. B. Giraud published certain records dealing with the Armourer in various French archæological journals, and M. Charles Buttin has placed all those interested in the subject under a deep obligation for his minute researches on the subject of the proving of armour.
Of living English writers I would express the indebtedness not only of myself, but also of all those who are true amateurs d’armes, to Baron de Cosson, who, with the late J. Burges, A.R.A., compiled the Catalogue of Helmets and Mail which is to this day the standard work on the subject. Last of all I would offer my sincere thanks to Viscount Dillon, Curator of the Tower Armouries, not only for his minute researches printed in the Archæologia and Archæological Journal, which have brought to light much valuable information respecting the Armourer and his Craft in English records, but also for very great personal interest and assistance in the compilation of this work.
CHARLES FFOULKES
S. John’s College,
Oxford, 1912
| PAGE | |
| Preface | ix |
| The Armourer | 1 |
| Tools, Appliances, etc. | 22 |
| Iron and Steel | 38 |
| The Craft of the Armourer | 44 |
| The Proof of Armour | 62 |
| The Decoration of Armour | 73 |
| The Cleaning of Armour | 78 |
| The Use of Fabrics and Linen | 83 |
| The Use of Leather | 96 |
| The Wearing of Armour | 104 |
| The Armourers’ Company of the City of London | 120 |
| Lists of European Armourers | 126 |
| Short Biographies of Notable Armourers | 131 |
| List of Armourers’ Marks | 147 |
| Polyglot Glossary of Words dealing with Armour and Weapons | 153 |
APPENDICES
| A. | Extract from the Records of the Armourers’ Company of London, 1322 (Lib. C, fol. 33) | 169 |
| B. | Regulations of the Heaumers’ Company, 1347 (City of London Letter Book F, cxlii) | 171 |
| C. | Treatise of Worship in Arms, by Johan Hill, Armourer, 1434 (Bod. Lib., Ashmole. 856, art. 22, fol. 376) | 173 |
| D. | Traité du Costume Militaire, 1446 (Du Costume Militaire des Français en 1446, Bib. Nat., Paris, 1997) | 177 |
| E. | Extract from the Ordinances of the Armourers of Angers, etc., 1448 (Ordonn. des Rois, XX, 156. Rev. d’Aquitaine, XII, 26. Arch. des B. Pyrénées, E, 302) | 180 |
| F. | Expenses in the Royal Armouries, temp. Henry VIII (Brit. Mus., Cotton. App. XXVIII, f. 76) | 182 |
| G. | Petition of Armourers to Queen Elizabeth (Lansdowne MS. 63, f. 5) | 184 |
| H. | Undertaking of the Armourers’ Company of London to supply Armour (Records of the Company, 1618) | 186 |
| I. | Proclamation against the Use of Gold and Silver except in the Case of Armour (State Papers Dom. Jac. I, cv) | 187 |
| J. | Erection of Plating-mills at Erith (State Papers Dom. Jac. I, clxxx) | 188 |
| K. | Regulations as to the Hall-mark of the Armourers’ Company (Rymer, XIX, 314) | 191 |
| L. | Petition of Armourers (State Papers Dom. Car. I, cclxxxix, 93) | 192 |
| M. | Extract from the Survey of the Tower Armoury, 1660 (Brit. Mus., Harl. MS. 7457) | 193 |
| Index | 195 | |
| PAGE | ||
| 1. | Diagram showing the “glancing surface” | 4 |
| 2. | Diagram showing the position of the lance in jousting, from Arch. Journ., LV. | 5 |
| 3. | Pauldrons on the statue of Colleoni, Venice, and of a Missaglia suit in the Waffensammlung, Vienna (Plate II) | 6 |
| 4. | The solleret, practical and unpractical | 6 |
| 5. | Horse-armour | 8 |
| 6. | Harnischmeister Albrecht, from a painting in the Arsenal, Vienna | 9 |
| 7. | Cuissard for the off hock of a horse. Musée Porte de Hal, Brussels | 10 |
| 8. | Arms of the Armourers’ Gild, Florence. From the Church of Or San Michele | 14 |
| 9. | S. George, by Hans Multscher, 1458. Augsburg | 14 |
| 10. | Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, arming. Brit. Mus., Cott., Jul., E, IV, fol. 12 b | 15 |
| 11. | The Westminster helm | 17 |
| 12. | The Brocas helm | 17 |
| 13. | The Fogge helm | 17 |
| 14. | The Barendyne helm | 17 |
| 15. | The Mail-maker, from Jost Amman’s Stande und Handwerker, circ. 1590 | 23 |
| 16. | The Armourer, from the same source as the above | 24 |
| 17. | Burring-machine or “jenny,” from the picture by Breughel given on the frontispiece | 36 |
| 18. | Method of making mail, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII | 45 |
| 19. | Representations of double and single mail, from the effigy of Robert de Mauley, formerly in York Minster, Archæologia, XXXI | 45 |
| 20. | The coif of mail, from the effigy of William, Earl of Pembroke, Temple Church, and an unnamed effigy in Pershore Church, Worcs, after Fairholt | 46 |
| 21. | Attachment of the camail, from the effigy of Sir R. Pembridge, Clehonger Church, Hereford | 46 |
| 22. | Attachment of the camail reconstructed | 46 |
| 23. | Suggested arrangement of “banded” mail, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII, figure from Romance of Alexander, Paris, Bib. Nat., circ. 1240, and the effigy at Newton Solney, Derbs. | 47 |
| 24. | Foot-soldier wearing a jack, from the Chasse of S. Ursula, by Memling, 1475–1485. Bruges. | 49 |
| 25. | Construction of jack, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII | 50 |
| 26. | Brigandine in the Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 130 | 50 |
| 27. | Detail from the picture of S. Victor and donor, by Van der Goes, Glasgow | 51 |
| 28. | Effigy in Ash Church, Kent, XIV cent. | 51 |
| 29. | Statue of S. George at Prague, 1375 | 51 |
| 30. | The sliding rivet | 52 |
| 31. | Sections of brassards in the Tower | 54 |
| 32. | Locking gauntlet of Sir Henry Lee. Armourers’ Hall, London | 55 |
| 33. | Locking hooks, turning pins, and strap cover | 55 |
| 34. | Bracket for jousting-sallad. Dresden, C, 3, 4 | 57 |
| 35. | Detail showing proof mark on the breast of suit of Louis XIV. Paris, G, 125 | 69 |
| 36. | Proof marks on a brigandine plate in the Darmstadt Museum | 71 |
| 37. | Poleynes on the brass of Sir Robert de Bures, Acton, Suffolk, 1302 | 74 |
| 38. | Beinbergs on the statue of Guigliemo Berardi, 1289, in the Cloisters of the Church of the Annunziata, Florence | 74 |
| 39. | Brass of an unknown knight at Laughton, Lincs, 1400 | 75 |
| 40. | Pourpointed cuisses, from the brass of Sir John de Argentine, Horseheath Church, Cambs, 1360 | 83 |
| 41. | Padded horse-armour, from King René’s Traicté d’un Tournois | 85 |
| 42. | Padded “harnische-kappe” and helm showing the attachment of the cap, after Dürer | 89 |
| 43. | Sallad-cap, from a picture by Paolo Morando, 1486–1522, No. 571. Uffizi Gallery, Florence | 89 |
| 44. | Helmet-cap, from a XVI-cent. engraving of Jacob Fugger | 89 |
| 45. | Detail of eyelet coats, XVI-XVII cent. Musée d’Artillerie and Musée Cluny, Paris | 91 |
| 46. | Sallad with cover, from a XVI-cent. engraving | 93 |
| 47. | Cuirass, from the sketch-book of Willars de Honecourt, XIII cent. | 96 |
| 48. | Leather gauntlet, XVII cent. Ashmolean Museum, Oxford | 96 |
| 49. | Brassard of leather and cord for the tourney, from King René’s Traicté d’un Tournois | 97 |
| 50. | Leather and steel hat of Bradshaw the regicide. Ashmolean Museum, Oxford | 99 |
| 51. | Stripping the dead, from the Bayeux Tapestry | 105 |
| 52. | Knight arming, from the Livre des Nobles Femmes, Bib. Nat., Paris, XIV cent. | 105 |
| 53. | Brass of Sir John de Creke, 1325, Westley Waterless, Cambs. | 106 |
| 54. | Arming-points, from the portrait of a navigator. Ashmolean Museum, Oxford | 108 |
| 55. | Attachment of brassard, from the portrait of the Duc de Nevers. Hampton Court Palace | 108 |
| 56. | Moton attached by points. Harl. MS. 4826 | 109 |
| 57. | Arming-points on the foot, from a picture of S. Demetrius by Ortolano. National Gallery, London | 109 |
| 58. | Sixteenth-century suit of plate with the several parts named in English, French, German, Italian, and Spanish | 110 |
| 59. | Attachment of jousting-helms to the cuirass | 112 |
| 60. | Side view of the above | 112 |
| 61. | The armourer in the lists. Heralds’ Coll., MS. M, 6, fol. 56 | 113 |
| 62. | Arms of the Armourers’ Company of London | 120 |
| 63. | Design on a gauntlet of the suit made for Henry, Prince of Wales, by William Pickering, circ. 1611. Windsor Castle | 122 |
| 64. | Mark of Bernardino Cantoni on a brigandine, C, II. Real Armeria, Madrid | 133 |
| 65. | Detail of shield by Desiderius Colman (Plate XXIV) | 135 |
| 66. | Capital formerly in the Via degli Spadari, Milan, showing the mark of the Missaglia family | 138 |
| 67. | Design on the left cuisse of Henry VIII’s suit, made by Conrad Seusenhofer. Tower of London, II, 5 | 141 |
| 68. | Design by Jacobe Topf for gauntlet and armet of Sir Henry Lee, from the Armourer’s Album. Victoria and Albert Museum | 146 |
| 69. | Design on the breast of Sir Henry Lee’s suit by Topf. Armourers’ Hall, London | 146 |
| Venus at the Forge of Vulcan, by Jan Breughel and Hendrik van Balen, circ. 1600. Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin Frontispiece | ||
| FACING PAGE | ||
| I. | Armour for the “Stechzeug,” XV-XVI cent. Germanische Museum, Nuremberg | 4 |
| II. | Armour of the fifteenth century exemplified by the effigy of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, S. Mary’s Church, Warwick, cast by Bartholomew Lambspring and Will Austin, circ. 1454, from Blore’s Monumental Remains. S. George, by Andrea Mantegna, 1431–1506, Accademia, Venice. Armour of Roberto di Sanseverino, by Antonio da Missaglia, circ. 1480; Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 3 | 8 |
| III. | A Contrast. Armour of Count Sigismond of Tirol, 1427–1496; Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 41. Armour of Louis XIV, by Garbagnus, 1668; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 125 | 12 |
| IV. | Armourers at work, Brit. Mus., Roy. MS. 16, G, v, fol. II. Wood-carving of Duke William of Aquitaine, XV cent., S. William’s Church, Strasburg. Venus and Vulcan, XIII cent., Königl. Bib., Berlin, Codex MS. Germ., fol. 282, p. 79 | 16 |
| V. | Anvils in the British Museum (Burges Bequest) and in the possession of Mme. Bellon, Avignon | 20 |
| VI. | The Workshop of Conrad Seusenhofer, from the Weisz Künig, by Hans Burgmair, 1525 | 24 |
| VII. | Armour of Kurfürst Moritz, by Matthäus Frauenpreis, 1548. Königl. Hist. Museum, Dresden, G, 39 | 28 |
| VIII. | Armour of Henry VIII for fighting on foot in the lists. Tower of London, II, 28 | 32 |
| IX. | Italian brassard (front and back), cuisse, 1470; Ethnological Museum, Athens. Inside of leg-armour of suit shown on Plate VIII | 36 |
| X. | Helmets of Henry VIII; Tower of London. (1, 2) Made by one of the Missaglia family; II, 29. (3, 4) Made by Conrad Seusenhofer, 1514. (5) Bevor for the latter; II, 5. The last three numbers form part of the suit shown on Plate XII | 40 |
| XI. | Brigandine (inside and outside), XV cent.; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 204, 205. Breast-plate of a brigandine, 1470; Ethnological Museum, Athens. Right cuisse of suit for fighting on foot in the lists, early XVI cent.; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 178 | 44 |
| XII. | “Engraved Suit,” by Conrad Seusenhofer, presented to Henry VIII by the Emperor Maximilian I, 1514. Tower of London, II, 5 | 48 |
| XIII. | Helmet of Sir Henry Lee, by Jacobe Topf, 1530–1597. Tower of London, IV, 29 | 52 |
| XIV. | Armour of King Sebastian of Portugal, by Anton Peffenhauser, 1525–1603. Pageant armour of Charles V, by Bartolomeo Campi, 1546. Real Armeria, Madrid, A, 290, 188 | 56 |
| XV. | Alegoria del Tacto, by Jan Breughel. Prado, Madrid | 60 |
| XVI. | Venetian sallad, XVI cent.; Bayerischen National Museum, Munich. Back-plate of a brigandine, 1470; Ethnological Museum, Athens. Morion, XVI-XVII cent.; Stibbert Collection, Florence. Surcoat of the Black Prince; Canterbury Cathedral | 64 |
| XVII. | Cast of ivory chessman, XIV cent. The original of this was in the possession of the Rev. J. Eagles in 1856, but has since disappeared. Ivory mirror-case showing squires arming their masters, XIV cent. Carrand Collection, Museo Nationale, Florence | 68 |
| XVIII. | Portraits of two unknown noblemen, by Moroni, 1510–1578, showing the arming-doublet and mail sleeves. National Gallery, London | 72 |
| XIX. | Helm for fighting on foot in the lists, XVI cent. It formerly hung over the tomb of Sir Giles Capel, in Raynes Church, Essex, and was sold as old iron to Baron de Cosson, from whom it passed to the collection of the Duc de Dino, and from thence to the Metropolitan Museum, New York. Arming a knight for combat in the lists, from a MS. of the XV cent., in the possession of Lord Hastings | 76 |
| XX. | Armour of Henry, Prince of Wales, son of James I, by William Pickering, 1591–1630, Master of the Armourers’ Company of London. Royal Armoury, Windsor Castle | 80 |
| XXI. | Suit of “puffed and slashed” armour, circ. 1520; formerly in the Meyrick Collection; Wallace Collection, No. 380. Tonlet suit for fighting on foot in the lists, by Conrad Lochner, 1510–1567; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 182. Armour of Ruprecht von der Pfalz, circ. 1515; Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 198 | 84 |
| XXII. | Gauntlets. (1, 2) Left and right hand gauntlets, probably by Jacobe Topf, 1530–1597; Tower, II, 10. (3) Bridle gauntlet of James I; Tower, II, 24. (4) Left-hand gauntlet, XV cent.; Madrid, E, 87. (5) Locking gauntlet, XVI cent.; Tower, III, 59. (6) Left-hand bridle gauntlet, XVI cent.; Tower, III, 95. (7) Left-hand gauntlet of Kurfürst Christian II, by Heinrich Knopf, circ. 1590; Dresden, E, 7. (8) Left-hand gauntlet for fighting on foot at barriers, XVI cent.; Tower, III, 58. (9) Gorget of Kurfürst Johann Georg II, showing the Garter badge and motto, by Jacob Joringk, 1669; Dresden, D, 29 | 88 |
| XXIII. | Armour for horse and man, middle of XV cent. Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 1 | 92 |
| XXIV. | Pageant shield, by Desiderius Colman, 1554. Real Armeria, Madrid, A, 241 | 96 |
| XXV. | Drawing by Jacobe Topf, 1530–1597, No. 15 in the Album in the Art Library, Victoria and Albert Museum, London | 100 |
| XXVI. | Armour of Sir Christopher Hatton; formerly in the Spitzer Collection, now in the Royal Armoury, Windsor Castle | 100 |
| XXVII. | Drawing by Jacobe Topf, from the same source as Plate XXV, 18 in the Album | 104 |
| XXVIII. | Armour of Sir John Smith, by Jacobe Topf. Tower of London, II, 12 | 104 |
| XXIX. | (1) Armet, middle of the XVI cent.; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, H, 89. (2) Armet, engraved and gilt with heavy reinforcing plates on the left side, end of XVI cent.; Paris, H, 108. (3) Helm from the tomb of Sir Richard Pembridge, Hereford Cathedral, circ. 1360. It was given by the Dean of Hereford to Sir Samuel Meyrick, and passed from him to Sir Noel Paton, and is now in the Museum at Edinburgh. (4) Parade casque, after Negroli, middle of XVI cent.; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, H, 253. (5) Sallad, by one of the Negroli family, end of XV cent.; Real Armeria, Madrid, D, 13 | 108 |
| XXX. | Armour of Friedrich des Siegreichen, by Tomaso da Missaglia, circ. 1450; Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 2. Armour, circ. 1460; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 5 | 112 |
| XXXI. | Portrait medal of Coloman Colman (Helmschmied), 1470–1532. Designs for saddle steel and visor, by Albert Dürer, 1517, from the Albertina, Vienna | 116 |