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Title: The armourer and his craft from the XIth to the XVIth century

Author: Charles John Ffoulkes

Release date: November 23, 2019 [eBook #60767]
Most recently updated: October 17, 2024

Language: English

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*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ARMOURER AND HIS CRAFT FROM THE XITH TO THE XVITH CENTURY ***

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Footnote anchors are denoted by [number], and the footnotes have been placed at the end of each chapter or Appendix. The numbers [376] to [383] in Appendix C are part of the quoted document, and are not footnotes.

Basic fractions are displayed as ½ ¼ ⅜ etc; the only other fraction is one-sixteenth, displayed as 1/16. Currency (shillings and pence) is displayed as a/b or a/-, for example 4/8 is 4 shillings and 8 pence, 2/- is two shillings.

The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.

Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.


THE ARMOURER AND HIS CRAFT


UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME

PASTE     By A. Beresford Ryley

VENUS AT THE FORGE OF VULCAN. JAN BRUEGHEL AND HENDRICK VAN BALEN. CIRCA 1600
KAISER FRIEDRICH MUSEUM, BERLIN

THE ARMOURER
AND HIS CRAFT

FROM THE XIth TO THE XVIth CENTURY

By CHARLES FFOULKES, B.Litt.Oxon.

WITH SIXTY-NINE DIAGRAMS IN THE TEXT AND THIRTY-TWO PLATES

METHUEN & CO. LTD.
36 ESSEX STREET W.C.
LONDON


First Published in 1912

Printed in Great Britain


TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE

THE VISCOUNT DILLON, Hon. M.A. Oxon.

V.P.S.A., Etc. Etc.

CURATOR OF THE TOWER ARMOURIES


PREFACE

I do not propose, in this work, to consider the history or development of defensive armour, for this has been more or less fully discussed in works which deal with the subject from the historical side of the question. I have rather endeavoured to compile a work which will, in some measure, fill up a gap in the subject, by collecting all the records and references, especially in English documents, which relate to the actual making of armour and the regulations which controlled the Armourer and his Craft. At the same time it is impossible to discuss this branch of the subject without overlapping in some details the existing works on Arms and Armour, but such repetition has only been included because it bears directly on the making, selling, or wearing of armour.

I have intentionally omitted all reference to the sword and other weapons of offence, for this would have unduly increased the size of the present work, and the subject is of such importance that it deserves a full consideration in a separate volume.

The original limits of this work have been considerably enlarged since it was offered as a thesis for the Degree of Bachelor of Letters in the University of Oxford in the Michaelmas Term, 1911. A polyglot glossary has been included, as this is a detail which has been practically overlooked by all English writers. The subject of Arms and Armour has not, up to the present time, received the attention in England that it deserves, but I would be the first to admit the value of the works of Meyrick and Hewitt, which are the foundations upon which German and French as well as all English authors have based their investigations. At the same time it should be remembered that these two authors were pioneers, and statements which they made have been contradicted or modified by more recent research. Two examples of this will suffice. Meyrick named the upstanding neck-guards on the pauldron the “passguards” and the neck-armour of the horse the “mainfaire.” From the researches of Viscount Dillon we learn that the passguard was a reinforcing piece for the joust and the mainfaire was a gauntlet (main de fer.) Both these mistakes are still perpetuated in foreign works on the subject, which shows the influence of Meyrick’s work even at the present day.

The subject of the Armourer and his Craft has never received much attention in England, even at the hands of Meyrick and Hewitt. On the Continent, however, writers like the late Dr. Wendelin Boeheim, Gurlitt, Buff, and Angellucci have all added greatly to our store of information on the subject. Boeheim’s work on the Armourers of Europe (Meister der Waffenschmiedekunst) is the only work in any language which has given us some account of the armour craftsmen of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and I should be indeed remiss if I did not take this opportunity of acknowledging the assistance which this collection of biographies has been in the preparation of the present work. Signori Gelli and Moretti have collected interesting documents relating to the Missaglia family, but apart from this no other writers have made a study of the Armourer.

Gay’s Encyclopædia, which unfortunately was cut short after the letter G by the death of the author, is also invaluable as far as it goes, in that it gives in every case contemporary references relating to the use of each word. The late J. B. Giraud published certain records dealing with the Armourer in various French archæological journals, and M. Charles Buttin has placed all those interested in the subject under a deep obligation for his minute researches on the subject of the proving of armour.

Of living English writers I would express the indebtedness not only of myself, but also of all those who are true amateurs d’armes, to Baron de Cosson, who, with the late J. Burges, A.R.A., compiled the Catalogue of Helmets and Mail which is to this day the standard work on the subject. Last of all I would offer my sincere thanks to Viscount Dillon, Curator of the Tower Armouries, not only for his minute researches printed in the Archæologia and Archæological Journal, which have brought to light much valuable information respecting the Armourer and his Craft in English records, but also for very great personal interest and assistance in the compilation of this work.

CHARLES FFOULKES

S. John’s College,
Oxford
, 1912



CONTENTS

PAGE
Prefaceix
The Armourer1
Tools, Appliances, etc.22
Iron and Steel38
The Craft of the Armourer44
The Proof of Armour62
The Decoration of Armour73
The Cleaning of Armour78
The Use of Fabrics and Linen83
The Use of Leather96
The Wearing of Armour104
The Armourers’ Company of the City of London120
Lists of European Armourers126
Short Biographies of Notable Armourers131
List of Armourers’ Marks147
Polyglot Glossary of Words dealing with Armour and Weapons153

APPENDICES

A.Extract from the Records of the Armourers’ Company of London, 1322 (Lib. C, fol. 33)169
B.Regulations of the Heaumers’ Company, 1347 (City of London Letter Book F, cxlii)171
C.Treatise of Worship in Arms, by Johan Hill, Armourer, 1434 (Bod. Lib., Ashmole. 856, art. 22, fol. 376)173
D.Traité du Costume Militaire, 1446 (Du Costume Militaire des Français en 1446, Bib. Nat., Paris, 1997)177
E.Extract from the Ordinances of the Armourers of Angers, etc., 1448 (Ordonn. des Rois, XX, 156. Rev. d’Aquitaine, XII, 26. Arch. des B. Pyrénées, E, 302)180
F.Expenses in the Royal Armouries, temp. Henry VIII (Brit. Mus., Cotton. App. XXVIII, f. 76)182
G.Petition of Armourers to Queen Elizabeth (Lansdowne MS. 63, f. 5)184
H.Undertaking of the Armourers’ Company of London to supply Armour (Records of the Company, 1618)186
I.Proclamation against the Use of Gold and Silver except in the Case of Armour (State Papers Dom. Jac. I, cv)187
J.Erection of Plating-mills at Erith (State Papers Dom. Jac. I, clxxx)188
K.Regulations as to the Hall-mark of the Armourers’ Company (Rymer, XIX, 314)191
L.Petition of Armourers (State Papers Dom. Car. I, cclxxxix, 93)192
M.Extract from the Survey of the Tower Armoury, 1660 (Brit. Mus., Harl. MS. 7457)193
Index195

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT

PAGE
  1.Diagram showing the “glancing surface”4
  2.Diagram showing the position of the lance in jousting, from Arch. Journ., LV.5
  3.Pauldrons on the statue of Colleoni, Venice, and of a Missaglia suit in the Waffensammlung, Vienna (Plate II)6
  4.The solleret, practical and unpractical6
  5.Horse-armour8
  6.Harnischmeister Albrecht, from a painting in the Arsenal, Vienna9
  7.Cuissard for the off hock of a horse. Musée Porte de Hal, Brussels10
  8.Arms of the Armourers’ Gild, Florence. From the Church of Or San Michele14
  9.S. George, by Hans Multscher, 1458. Augsburg14
10.Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, arming. Brit. Mus., Cott., Jul., E, IV, fol. 12 b15
11.The Westminster helm17
12.The Brocas helm17
13.The Fogge helm17
14.The Barendyne helm17
15.The Mail-maker, from Jost Amman’s Stande und Handwerker, circ. 159023
16.The Armourer, from the same source as the above24
17.Burring-machine or “jenny,” from the picture by Breughel given on the frontispiece36
18.Method of making mail, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII45
19.Representations of double and single mail, from the effigy of Robert de Mauley, formerly in York Minster, Archæologia, XXXI45
20.The coif of mail, from the effigy of William, Earl of Pembroke, Temple Church, and an unnamed effigy in Pershore Church, Worcs, after Fairholt46
21.Attachment of the camail, from the effigy of Sir R. Pembridge, Clehonger Church, Hereford46
22.Attachment of the camail reconstructed46
23.Suggested arrangement of “banded” mail, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII, figure from Romance of Alexander, Paris, Bib. Nat., circ. 1240, and the effigy at Newton Solney, Derbs.47
24.Foot-soldier wearing a jack, from the Chasse of S. Ursula, by Memling, 1475–1485. Bruges.49
25.Construction of jack, from Arch. Journ., XXXVII50
26.Brigandine in the Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 13050
27.Detail from the picture of S. Victor and donor, by Van der Goes, Glasgow51
28.Effigy in Ash Church, Kent, XIV cent.51
29.Statue of S. George at Prague, 137551
30.The sliding rivet52
31.Sections of brassards in the Tower54
32.Locking gauntlet of Sir Henry Lee. Armourers’ Hall, London55
33.Locking hooks, turning pins, and strap cover55
34.Bracket for jousting-sallad. Dresden, C, 3, 457
35.Detail showing proof mark on the breast of suit of Louis XIV. Paris, G, 12569
36. Proof marks on a brigandine plate in the Darmstadt Museum71
37.Poleynes on the brass of Sir Robert de Bures, Acton, Suffolk, 130274
38.Beinbergs on the statue of Guigliemo Berardi, 1289, in the Cloisters of the Church of the Annunziata, Florence74
39.Brass of an unknown knight at Laughton, Lincs, 140075
40.Pourpointed cuisses, from the brass of Sir John de Argentine, Horseheath Church, Cambs, 136083
41.Padded horse-armour, from King René’s Traicté d’un Tournois85
42.Padded “harnische-kappe” and helm showing the attachment of the cap, after Dürer89
43.Sallad-cap, from a picture by Paolo Morando, 1486–1522, No. 571. Uffizi Gallery, Florence89
44.Helmet-cap, from a XVI-cent. engraving of Jacob Fugger89
45.Detail of eyelet coats, XVI-XVII cent. Musée d’Artillerie and Musée Cluny, Paris91
46.Sallad with cover, from a XVI-cent. engraving93
47.Cuirass, from the sketch-book of Willars de Honecourt, XIII cent.96
48.Leather gauntlet, XVII cent. Ashmolean Museum, Oxford96
49.Brassard of leather and cord for the tourney, from King René’s Traicté d’un Tournois97
50.Leather and steel hat of Bradshaw the regicide. Ashmolean Museum, Oxford99
51.Stripping the dead, from the Bayeux Tapestry105
52.Knight arming, from the Livre des Nobles Femmes, Bib. Nat., Paris, XIV cent.105
53.Brass of Sir John de Creke, 1325, Westley Waterless, Cambs.106
54.Arming-points, from the portrait of a navigator. Ashmolean Museum, Oxford108
55.Attachment of brassard, from the portrait of the Duc de Nevers. Hampton Court Palace108
56.Moton attached by points. Harl. MS. 4826109
57.Arming-points on the foot, from a picture of S. Demetrius by Ortolano. National Gallery, London109
58.Sixteenth-century suit of plate with the several parts named in English, French, German, Italian, and Spanish110
59.Attachment of jousting-helms to the cuirass112
60.Side view of the above112
61.The armourer in the lists. Heralds’ Coll., MS. M, 6, fol. 56113
62.Arms of the Armourers’ Company of London120
63.Design on a gauntlet of the suit made for Henry, Prince of Wales, by William Pickering, circ. 1611. Windsor Castle122
64.Mark of Bernardino Cantoni on a brigandine, C, II. Real Armeria, Madrid133
65.Detail of shield by Desiderius Colman (Plate XXIV)135
66.Capital formerly in the Via degli Spadari, Milan, showing the mark of the Missaglia family138
67.Design on the left cuisse of Henry VIII’s suit, made by Conrad Seusenhofer. Tower of London, II, 5141
68.Design by Jacobe Topf for gauntlet and armet of Sir Henry Lee, from the Armourer’s Album. Victoria and Albert Museum146
69.Design on the breast of Sir Henry Lee’s suit by Topf. Armourers’ Hall, London146

LIST OF PLATES

Venus at the Forge of Vulcan, by Jan Breughel and Hendrik van Balen, circ. 1600. Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin Frontispiece
FACING PAGE
I.Armour for the “Stechzeug,” XV-XVI cent. Germanische Museum, Nuremberg4
II.Armour of the fifteenth century exemplified by the effigy of Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, S. Mary’s Church, Warwick, cast by Bartholomew Lambspring and Will Austin, circ. 1454, from Blore’s Monumental Remains. S. George, by Andrea Mantegna, 1431–1506, Accademia, Venice. Armour of Roberto di Sanseverino, by Antonio da Missaglia, circ. 1480; Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 38
III.A Contrast. Armour of Count Sigismond of Tirol, 1427–1496; Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 41. Armour of Louis XIV, by Garbagnus, 1668; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 12512
IV.Armourers at work, Brit. Mus., Roy. MS. 16, G, v, fol. II. Wood-carving of Duke William of Aquitaine, XV cent., S. William’s Church, Strasburg. Venus and Vulcan, XIII cent., Königl. Bib., Berlin, Codex MS. Germ., fol. 282, p. 7916
V.Anvils in the British Museum (Burges Bequest) and in the possession of Mme. Bellon, Avignon20
VI.The Workshop of Conrad Seusenhofer, from the Weisz Künig, by Hans Burgmair, 152524
VII.Armour of Kurfürst Moritz, by Matthäus Frauenpreis, 1548. Königl. Hist. Museum, Dresden, G, 3928
VIII.Armour of Henry VIII for fighting on foot in the lists. Tower of London, II, 2832
IX.Italian brassard (front and back), cuisse, 1470; Ethnological Museum, Athens. Inside of leg-armour of suit shown on Plate VIII36
X.Helmets of Henry VIII; Tower of London. (1, 2) Made by one of the Missaglia family; II, 29. (3, 4) Made by Conrad Seusenhofer, 1514. (5) Bevor for the latter; II, 5. The last three numbers form part of the suit shown on Plate XII40
XI.Brigandine (inside and outside), XV cent.; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 204, 205. Breast-plate of a brigandine, 1470; Ethnological Museum, Athens. Right cuisse of suit for fighting on foot in the lists, early XVI cent.; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 17844
XII.“Engraved Suit,” by Conrad Seusenhofer, presented to Henry VIII by the Emperor Maximilian I, 1514. Tower of London, II, 548
XIII.Helmet of Sir Henry Lee, by Jacobe Topf, 1530–1597. Tower of London, IV, 2952
XIV.Armour of King Sebastian of Portugal, by Anton Peffenhauser, 1525–1603. Pageant armour of Charles V, by Bartolomeo Campi, 1546. Real Armeria, Madrid, A, 290, 18856
XV.Alegoria del Tacto, by Jan Breughel. Prado, Madrid60
XVI.Venetian sallad, XVI cent.; Bayerischen National Museum, Munich. Back-plate of a brigandine, 1470; Ethnological Museum, Athens. Morion, XVI-XVII cent.; Stibbert Collection, Florence. Surcoat of the Black Prince; Canterbury Cathedral64
XVII.Cast of ivory chessman, XIV cent. The original of this was in the possession of the Rev. J. Eagles in 1856, but has since disappeared. Ivory mirror-case showing squires arming their masters, XIV cent. Carrand Collection, Museo Nationale, Florence68
XVIII. Portraits of two unknown noblemen, by Moroni, 1510–1578, showing the arming-doublet and mail sleeves. National Gallery, London72
XIX.Helm for fighting on foot in the lists, XVI cent. It formerly hung over the tomb of Sir Giles Capel, in Raynes Church, Essex, and was sold as old iron to Baron de Cosson, from whom it passed to the collection of the Duc de Dino, and from thence to the Metropolitan Museum, New York. Arming a knight for combat in the lists, from a MS. of the XV cent., in the possession of Lord Hastings76
XX.Armour of Henry, Prince of Wales, son of James I, by William Pickering, 1591–1630, Master of the Armourers’ Company of London. Royal Armoury, Windsor Castle80
XXI.Suit of “puffed and slashed” armour, circ. 1520; formerly in the Meyrick Collection; Wallace Collection, No. 380. Tonlet suit for fighting on foot in the lists, by Conrad Lochner, 1510–1567; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 182. Armour of Ruprecht von der Pfalz, circ. 1515; Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 19884
XXII.Gauntlets. (1, 2) Left and right hand gauntlets, probably by Jacobe Topf, 1530–1597; Tower, II, 10. (3) Bridle gauntlet of James I; Tower, II, 24. (4) Left-hand gauntlet, XV cent.; Madrid, E, 87. (5) Locking gauntlet, XVI cent.; Tower, III, 59. (6) Left-hand bridle gauntlet, XVI cent.; Tower, III, 95. (7) Left-hand gauntlet of Kurfürst Christian II, by Heinrich Knopf, circ. 1590; Dresden, E, 7. (8) Left-hand gauntlet for fighting on foot at barriers, XVI cent.; Tower, III, 58. (9) Gorget of Kurfürst Johann Georg II, showing the Garter badge and motto, by Jacob Joringk, 1669; Dresden, D, 2988
XXIII.Armour for horse and man, middle of XV cent. Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 192
XXIV.Pageant shield, by Desiderius Colman, 1554. Real Armeria, Madrid, A, 24196
XXV.Drawing by Jacobe Topf, 1530–1597, No. 15 in the Album in the Art Library, Victoria and Albert Museum, London100
XXVI.Armour of Sir Christopher Hatton; formerly in the Spitzer Collection, now in the Royal Armoury, Windsor Castle100
XXVII.Drawing by Jacobe Topf, from the same source as Plate XXV, 18 in the Album104
XXVIII.Armour of Sir John Smith, by Jacobe Topf. Tower of London, II, 12104
XXIX.(1) Armet, middle of the XVI cent.; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, H, 89. (2) Armet, engraved and gilt with heavy reinforcing plates on the left side, end of XVI cent.; Paris, H, 108. (3) Helm from the tomb of Sir Richard Pembridge, Hereford Cathedral, circ. 1360. It was given by the Dean of Hereford to Sir Samuel Meyrick, and passed from him to Sir Noel Paton, and is now in the Museum at Edinburgh. (4) Parade casque, after Negroli, middle of XVI cent.; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, H, 253. (5) Sallad, by one of the Negroli family, end of XV cent.; Real Armeria, Madrid, D, 13108
XXX.Armour of Friedrich des Siegreichen, by Tomaso da Missaglia, circ. 1450; Waffensammlung, Vienna, No. 2. Armour, circ. 1460; Musée d’Artillerie, Paris, G, 5112
XXXI.Portrait medal of Coloman Colman (Helmschmied), 1470–1532. Designs for saddle steel and visor, by Albert Dürer, 1517, from the Albertina, Vienna116

ACKNOWLEDGMENT