Before proceeding to describe and illustrate neweled stairs, it will be proper to say something about the well-hole, or the opening through the floors, through which the traveler on the stairs ascends or descends from one floor to another.

Fig. 31 shows a well-hole, and the manner of trimming it. In this instance the stairs are placed against the wall; but this is not necessary in all cases, as the well-hole may be placed in any part of the building.

The arrangement of the trimming varies according as the joists are at right angles to, or are parallel to, the wall against which the stairs are built. In the former case (Fig. 31, A) the joists are cut short and tusk-tenoned into the heavy trimmer T T, as shown in the cut. This trimmer is again tusk-tenoned into two heavy joists T J and T J, which form the ends of the well-hole. These heavy joists are called trimming joists; and, as they have to carry a much heavier load than other joists on the same floor, they are made much heavier. Sometimes two or three joists are placed together, side by side, being bolted or spiked together to give them the desired unity and strength. In constructions requiring great strength, the tail and header joists of a well-hole are suspended on iron brackets.

If the opening runs parallel with the joists (Fig. 31, B), the timber forming the side of the well-hole should be left a little heavier than the other joists, as it will have to carry short trimmers (T J and T J) and the joists running into them. The method here shown is more particularly adapted to brick buildings, but there is no reason why the same system may not be applied to frame buildings.

Usually in cheap, frame buildings, the trimmers T T are spiked against the ends of the joists, and the ends of the trimmers are supported by being spiked to the trimming joists T J, T J. This is not very workmanlike or very secure, and should not be done, as it is not nearly so strong or durable as the old method of framing the joists and trimmers together.

Fig. 32 shows a stair with three newels and a platform. In this example, the first tread (No. 1) stands forward of the newel post two-thirds of its width. This is not necessary in every case, but it is sometimes done to suit conditions in the hallway. The second newel is placed at the twelfth riser, and supports the upper end of the first cut string and the lower end of the second cut string. The platform (12) is supported by joists which are framed into the wall and are fastened against a trimmer running from the wall to the newel along the line 12. This is the case only when the second newel runs down to the floor.

If the second newel does not run to the floor, the framework supporting the platform will need to be built on studding. The third newel stands at the top of the stairs, and is fastened to the joists of the second floor, or to the trimmer, somewhat after the manner of fastening shown in Fig. 29. In this example, the stairs have 16 risers and 15 treads, the platform or landing (12) making one tread. The figure 16 shows the floor in the second story.

This style of stair will require a well-hole in shape about as shown in the plan; and where strength is required, the newel at the top should run from floor to floor, and act as a support to the joists and trimmers on which the second floor is laid.

Perhaps the best way for a beginner to go about building a stairway of this type, will be to lay out the work on the lower floor in the exact place where the stairs are to be erected, making everything full size. There will be no difficulty in doing this; and if the positions of the first riser and the three newel posts are accurately defined, the building of the stairs will be an easy matter. Plumb lines can be raised from the lines on the floor, and the positions of the platform and each riser thus easily determined. Not only is it best to line out on the floor all stairs having more than one newel; but in constructing any kind of stair it will perhaps be safest for a beginner to lay out in exact position on the floor the points over which the treads and risers will stand. By adopting this rule, and seeing that the strings, risers, and treads correspond exactly with the lines on the floor, many cases of annoyance will be avoided. Many expert stair-builders, in fact, adopt this method in their practice, laying out all stairs on the floor, including even the carriage strings, and they cut out all the material from the lines obtained on the floor. By following this method, one can see exactly the requirements in each particular case, and can rectify any error without destroying valuable material.

In order to afford the student a clear idea of what is meant by laying out on the floor, an example of a simple close-string stair is given. In Fig. 33, the letter F shows the floor line; L is the landing or platform; and W is the wall line. The stair is to be 4 feet wide over strings; the landing, 4 feet wide; the height from floor to landing, 7 feet; and the run from start to finish of the stair, 8 feet 8½ inches.

The first thing to determine is the dimensions of the treads and risers. The wider the tread, the lower must be the riser, as stated before. No definite dimensions for treads and risers can be given, as the steps have to be arranged to meet the various difficulties that may occur in the working out of the construction; but a common rule is this: Make the width of the tread, plus twice the rise, equal to 24 inches. This will give, for an 8-inch tread, an 8-inch rise; for a 9-inch tread, a 7½-inch rise; for a 10-inch tread, a 7-inch rise, and so on. Having the height (7 feet) and the run of the flight (8 feet 8½-inches), take a rod about one inch square, and mark on it the height from floor to landing (7 feet), and the length of the going or run of the flight (8 feet 8½ inches). Consider now what are the dimensions which can be given to the treads and risers, remembering that there will be one more riser than the number of treads. Mark off on the rod the landing, forming the last tread. If twelve risers are desired, divide the height (namely, 7 feet) by 12, which gives 7 inches as the rise of each step. Then divide the run (namely, 8 feet 8½ inches) by 11, and the width of the tread is found to be 9½ inches.

Great care must be taken in making the pitch-board for marking off the treads and risers on the string. The pitch-board may be made from dry hardwood about ⅜-inch thick. One end and one side must be perfectly square to each other; on the one, the width of the tread is set off, and on the other the height of the riser. Connect the two points thus obtained, and saw the wood on this line. The addition of a gauge-piece along the longest side of the triangular piece, completes the pitch-board, as was illustrated in Fig. 15.

The length of the wall and outer string can be ascertained by means of the pitch-board. One side and one edge of the wall string must be squared; but the outer string must be trued all round. On the strings, mark the positions of the treads and risers by using the pitch-board as already explained (Fig. 17). Strings are usually made 11 inches wide, but may be made 12½ inches wide if necessary for strength.

After the widths of risers and treads have been determined, and the string is ready to lay out, apply the pitch-board, marking the first riser about 9 inches from the end; and number each step in succession. The thickness of the treads and risers can be drawn by using thin strips of hardwood made the width of the housing required. Now allow for the wedges under the treads and behind the risers, and thus find the exact width of the housing, which should be about ⅝-inch deep; the treads and risers will require to be made 1¼ inches longer than shown in the plan, to allow for the housings at both ends.

Before putting the stair together, be sure that it can be taken into the house and put in position without trouble. If for any reason it cannot be put in after being put together, then the parts must be assembled, wedged, and glued up at the spot.

It is essential in laying out a plan on the floor, that the exact positions of the first and last risers be ascertained, and the height of the story wherein the stair is to be placed. Then draw a plan of the hall or other room in which the stairs will be located, including surrounding or adjoining parts of the room to the extent of ten or twelve feet from the place assigned for the foot of the stair. All the doorways, branching passages, or windows which can possibly come in contact with the stair from its commencement to its expected termination or landing, must be noted. The sketch must necessarily include a portion of the entrance hall in one part, and of the lobby or landing in another, and on it must be laid out all the lines of the stair from the first to the last riser.

The height of the story must next be exactly determined and taken on the rod; then, assuming a height of risers suitable to the place, a trial is made by division in the manner previously explained, to ascertain how often this height is contained in the height of the story. The quotient, if there is no remainder, will be the number of risers required. Should there be a remainder on the first division, the operation is reversed, the number of inches in the height being made the dividend and the before-found quotient the divisor; and the operation of reduction by division is carried on till the height of the riser is obtained to the thirty-second part of an inch. These heights are then set off as exactly as possible on the story rod, as shown in Fig. 33.

The next operation is to show the risers on the sketch. This the workman will find no trouble in arranging, and no arbitrary rule can be given.

A part of the foregoing may appear to be repetition; but it is not, for it must be remembered that scarcely any two flights of stairs are alike in run, rise, or pitch, and any departure in any one dimension from these conditions leads to a new series of dimensions that must be dealt with independently. The principle laid down, however, applies to all straight flights of stairs; and the student who has followed closely and retained the pith of what has been said, will, if he has a fair knowledge of the use of tools, be fairly equipped for laying out and constructing a plain, straight stair with a straight rail.

Plain stairs may have one platform, or several; and they may turn to the right or to the left, or, rising from a platform or landing, may run in an opposite direction from their starting point.

When two flights are necessary for a story, it is desirable that each flight should consist of the same number of steps; but this, of course, will depend on the form of the staircase, the situation and height of doors, and other obstacles to be passed under or over, as the case may be.

In Fig. 32, a stair is shown with a single platform or landing and three newels. The first part of this stair corresponds, in number of risers, with the stair shown in Fig. 33; the second newel runs down to the floor, and helps to sustain the landing. This newel may simply be a 4 by 4-inch post, or the whole space may be inclosed with the spandrel of the stair. The second flight starts from the platform just as the first flight starts from the lower floor, and both flights may be attached to the newels in the manner shown in Fig. 29. The bottom tread in Fig. 32 is rounded off against the square of the newel post; but this cannot well be if the stairs start from the landing, as the tread would project too far onto the platform. Sometimes, in high-class stairs, provision is made for the first tread to project well onto the landing.

If there are more platforms than one, the principles of construction will be the same; so that whenever the student grasps the full conditions governing the construction of a single-platform stair, he will be prepared to lay out and construct the body of any stair having one or more landings. The method of laying out, making, and setting up a hand-rail will be described later.

Stairs formed with treads each of equal width at both ends, are named straight flights; but stairs having treads wider at one end than the other are known by various names, as winding stairs, dog-legged stairs, circular stairs, or elliptical stairs. A tread with parallel sides, having the same width at each end, is called a flyer; while one having one wide end and one narrow, is called a winder. These terms will often be made use of in what follows.

The elevation and plan of the stair shown in Fig. 34 may be called a dog-legged stair with three winders and six flyers. The flyers, however, may be extended to any number. The housed strings to receive the winders are shown. These strings show exactly the manner of construction. The shorter string, in the corner from 1 to 4, which is shown in the plan to contain the housing of the first winder and half of the second, is put up first, the treads being leveled by aid of a spirit level; and the longer upper string is put in place afterwards, butting snugly against the lower string in the corner. It is then fastened firmly to the wall. The winders are cut snugly around the newel post, and well nailed. Their risers will stand one above another on the post; and the straight string above the winders will enter the post on a line with the top edge of the uppermost winder.

Platform stairs are often constructed so that one flight will run in a direction opposite to that of the other flight, as shown in Fig.35. In cases of this kind, the landing or platform requires to have a length more than double that of the treads, in order that both flights may have the same width. Sometimes, however, and for various reasons, the upper flight is made a little narrower than the lower; but this expedient should be avoided whenever possible, as its adoption unbalances the stairs. In the example before us, eleven treads, not including the landing, run in one direction; while four treads, including the landing, run in the opposite direction; or, as workmen put it, the stair “returns on itself.” The elevation shown in Fig. 36 illustrates the manner in which the work is executed. The various parts are shown as follows:

Fig. 37 is a section of the top landing, with baluster and rail.

Fig. 38 is part of the long newel, showing mortises for the strings.

Fig. 39 represents part of the bottom newel, showing the string, moulding on the outside, and cap.

Fig. 40 is a section of the top string enlarged.

Fig. 41 is the newel at the bottom, as cut out to receive bottom step. It must be remembered that there is a cove under each tread. This may be nailed in after the stairs are put together, and it adds greatly to the appearance.

We may state that stairs should have carriage pieces fixed from floor to floor, under the stairs, to support them. These may be notched under the steps; or rough brackets may be nailed to the side of the carriage, and carried under each riser and tread.

There is also a framed spandrel which helps materially to carry the weight, makes a sound job, and adds greatly to the appearance. This spandrel may be made of 1¼-inch material, with panels and mouldings on the front side, as shown in Fig. 36. The joint between the top and bottom rails of the spandrel at the angle, should be made as shown in Fig. 42 with a cross-tongue, and glued and fastened with long screws. Fig. 43 is simply one of the panels showing the miters on the moulding and the shape of the sections. As there is a convenient space under the landing, it is commonly used for a closet.

In setting out stairs, not only the proportions of treads and risers must be considered, but also the material available. As this material runs, as a rule, in certain sizes, it is best to work so as to conform to it as nearly as possible. In ordinary stairs, 11 by 1-inch common stock is used for strings and treads, and 7-inch by ¾-inch stock for risers; in stairs of a better class, wider and thicker material may be used. The rails are set at various heights; 2 feet 8 inches may be taken as an average height on the stairs, and 3 feet 1 inch on landings, with two balusters to each step.

In Fig. 36, all the newels and balusters are shown square; but it is much better, and is the more common practice, to have them turned, as this gives the stairs a much more artistic appearance. The spandrel under the string of the stairway shows a style in which many stairs are finished in hallways and other similar places. Plaster is sometimes used instead of the panel work, but is not nearly so good as woodwork. The door under the landing may open into a closet, or may lead to a cellarway, or through to some other room.

In stairs with winders, the width of a winder should, if possible, be nearly the width of the regular tread, at a distance of 14 inches from the narrow end, so that the length of the step in walking up or down the stairs may not be interrupted; and for this reason and several others, it is always best to have three winders only in each quarter-turn. Above all, avoid a four-winder turn, as this makes a breakneck stair, which is more difficult to construct and inconvenient to use.

Bullnose Tread. No other stair, perhaps, looks so well at the starting point as one having a bullnose step. In Fig. 44 are shown a plan and elevation of a flight of stairs having a bullnose tread. The method of obtaining the lines and setting out the body of the stairs, is the same as has already been explained for other stairs, with the exception of the first two steps, which are made with circular ends, as shown in the plan. These circular ends are worked out as hereafter described, and are attached to the newel and string as shown. The example shows an open, cut string with brackets. The spandrel under the string contains short panels, and makes a very handsome finish. The newels and balusters in this case are turned, and the latter have cutwork panels between them.

Bullnose steps are usually built up with a three-piece block, as shown in Fig. 45, which is a section through the step indicating the blocks, tread, and riser.

Fig. 46 is a plan showing how the veneer of the riser is prepared before being bent into position. The block A indicates a wedge which is glued and driven home after the veneer is put in place. This tightens up the work and makes it sound and clear. Figs. 47 and 48 show other methods of forming bullnose steps.

Fig. 49 is the side elevation of an open-string stair with bullnose steps at the bottom; while Fig. 50 is a view showing the lower end of the string, and the manner in which it is prepared for fixing to the blocks of the step. Fig. 51 is a section through the string, showing the bracket, cove, and projection of tread over same.

Figs. 52 and 53 show respectively a plan and vertical section of the bottom part of the stair. The blocks are shown at the ends of the steps (Fig. 53), with the veneered parts of the risers going round them; also the position where the string is fixed to the blocks (Fig. 52); and the tenon of the newel is marked on the upper step. The section (Fig. 53) shows the manner in which the blocks are built up and the newel tenoned into them.

The newel, Fig. 49, is rather an elaborate affair, being carved at the base and on the body, and having a carved rosette planted in a small, sunken panel on three sides, the rail butting against the fourth side.

Fig. 54 shows a plan of an open-newel stair having two landings and closed strings, shown in elevation in Fig. 55. The dotted lines show the carriage timbers and trimmers, also the lines of risers; while the treads are shown by full lines. It will be noticed that the strings and trimmers at the first landing are framed into the shank of the second newel post, which runs down to the floor; while the top newel drops below the fascia, and has a turned and carved drop. This drop hangs below both the fascia and the string. The lines of treads and risers are shown by dotted lines and crosshatched sections. The position of the carriage timbers is shown both in the landings and in the runs of the stairs, the projecting ends of these timbers being supposed to be resting on the wall. A scale of the plan and elevation is attached to the plan. In Fig. 55, a story rod is shown at the right, with the number of risers spaced off thereon. The design of the newels, spandrel, framing, and paneling is shown.

Only the central carriage timbers are shown in Fig. 54; but in a stair of this width, there ought to be two other timbers, not so heavy, perhaps, as the central one, yet strong enough to be of service in lending additional strength to the stairway, and also to help carry the laths and plaster or the paneling which may be necessary in completing the under side or soffit. The strings being closed, the butts of their balusters must rest on a subrail which caps the upper edge of the outer string.

The first newel should pass through the lower floor, and, to insure solidity, should be secured by bolts to a joist, as shown in the elevation. The rail is attached to the newels in the usual manner, with handrail bolts or other suitable device. The upper newel should be made fast to the joists as shown, either by bolts or in some other efficient manner. The intermediate newels are left square on the shank below the stairs, and may be fastened in the floor below either by mortise and tenon or by making use of joint bolts.

Everything about a stair should be made solid and sound; and every joint should set firmly and closely; or a shaky, rickety, squeaky stair will be the result, which is an abomination.

Sufficient examples of stairs having angles of greater or less degree at the turn or change of direction, to enable the student to build any stair of this class, have now been given. There are, however, other types of stairs in common use, whose turns are curved, and in which newels are employed only at the foot, and sometimes at the finish of the flight. These curved turns may be any part of a circle, according to the requirements of the case, but turns of a quarter-circle or half-circle are the more common. The string forming the curve is called a cylinder, or part of a cylinder, as the case may be. The radius of this circle or cylinder may be any length, according to the space assigned for the stair. The opening around which the stair winds is called the well-hole.

Fig. 56 shows a portion of a stairway having a well-hole with a 7-inch radius. This stair is rather peculiar, as it shows a quarter-space landing, and a quarter-space having three winders. The reason for this is the fact that the landing is on a level with the floor of another room, into which a door opens from the landing. This is a problem very often met with in practical work, where the main stair is often made to do the work of two flights because of one floor being so much lower than another.

A curved stair, sometimes called a geometrical stair, is shown in Fig. 57, containing seven winders in the cylinder or well-hole, the first and last aligning with the diameter.

In Fig. 58 is shown another example of this kind of stair, containing nine winders in the well-hole, with a circular wall-string. It is not often that stairs are built in this fashion, as most stairs having a circular well-hole finish against the wall in a manner similar to that shown in Fig. 57.

Sometimes, however, the workman will be confronted with a plan such as shown in Fig. 58; and he should know how to lay out the wall-string. In the elevation, Fig. 58, the string is shown to be straight, similar to the string of a common straight flight. This results from having an equal width in the winders along the wall-string, and, as we have of necessity an equal width in the risers, the development of the string is merely a straight piece of board, as in an ordinary straight flight. In laying out the string, all we have to do is to make a common pitch-board, and, with it as a templet, mark the lines of the treads and risers on a straight piece of board, as shown at 1, 2, 3, 4, etc.

If you can manage to bend the string without kerfing (grooving), it will be all the better; if not, the kerfs (grooves) must be parallel to the rise. You can set out with a straight edge, full size, on a rough platform, just as shown in the diagram; and when the string is bent and set in place, the risers and winders will have their correct positions.

To bend these strings or otherwise prepare them for fastening against the wall, perhaps the easiest way is to saw the string with a fine saw, across the face, making parallel grooves. This method of bending is called kerfing, above referred to. The kerfs or grooves must be cut parallel to the lines of the risers, so as to be vertical when the string is in place. This method, however—handy though it may be—is not a good one, inasmuch as the saw groove will show more or less in the finished work.

Another method is to build up or stave the string. There are several ways of doing this. In one, comparatively narrow pieces are cut to the required curve or to portions of it, and are fastened together, edge to edge, with glue and screws, until the necessary width is obtained (see Fig. 59). The heading joints may be either butted or beveled, the latter being stronger, and should be cross-tongued.

Fig. 60 shows a method that may be followed when a wide string is required, or a piece curved in the direction of its width is needed for any purpose. The pieces are stepped over each other to suit the desired curve; and though shown square-edged in the figure, they are usually cut beveled, as then, by reversing them, two may be cut out of a batten.

Panels and quick sweeps for similar purposes are obtained in the manner shown in Fig. 61, by joining up narrow boards edge to edge at a suitable bevel to give the desired curve. The internal curve is frequently worked approximately, before gluing up. The numerous joints incidental to these methods limit their uses to painted or unimportant work.

In Fig. 62 is shown a wreath-piece or curved portion of the outside string rising around the cylinder at the half-space. This is formed by reducing a short piece of string to a veneer between the springings; bending it upon a cylinder made to fit the plan; then, when it is secured in position, filling up the back of the veneer with staves glued across it; and, finally, gluing a piece of canvas over the whole. The appearance of the wreath-piece after it has been built up and removed from the cylinder is indicated in Fig. 63. The canvas back has been omitted to show the staving; and the counter-wedge key used for connecting the wreath-piece with the string is shown. The wreath-piece is, at this stage, ready for marking the outlines of the steps.

Fig. 62 also shows the drum or shape around which strings may be bent, whether the strings are formed of veneers, staved, or kerfed. Another drum or shape is shown in Fig. 64. In this, a portion of a cylinder is formed in the manner clearly indicated; and the string, being set out on a veneer board sufficiently thin to bend easily, is laid down round the curve, such a number of pieces of like thickness being then added as will make the required thickness of the string. In working this method, glue is introduced between the veneers, which are then quickly strained down to the curved piece with hand screws. A string of almost any length can be formed in this way, by gluing a few feet at a time, and when that dries, removing the cylindrical curve and gluing down more, until the whole is completed. Several other methods will suggest themselves to the workman, of building up good, solid, circular strings.

One method of laying out the treads and risers around a cylinder or drum, is shown in Fig. 65. The line D shows the curve of the rail. The lines showing treads and risers may be marked off on the cylinder, or they may be marked off after the veneer is bent around the drum or cylinder.

There are various methods of making inside cylinders or wells, and of fastening same to strings. One method is shown in Fig. 66. This gives a strong joint when properly made. It will be noticed that the cylinder is notched out on the back; the two blocks shown at the back of the offsets are wedges driven in to secure the cylinder in place, and to drive it up tight to the strings. Fig. 67 shows an 8-inch well-hole with cylinder complete; also the method of trimming and finishing same. The cylinder, too, is shown in such a manner that its construction will be readily understood.

Stairs having a cylindrical or circular opening always require a weight support underneath them. This support, which is generally made of rough lumber, is called the carriage, because it is supposed to carry any reasonable load that may be placed upon the stairway. Fig. 68 shows the under side of a half-space stair having a carriage beneath it. The timbers marked S are of rough stuff, and may be 2-inch by 6-inch or of greater dimensions. If they are cut to fit the risers and treads, they will require to be at least 2-inch by 8-inch.

In preparing the rough carriage for the winders, it will be best to let the back edge of the tread project beyond the back of the riser so that it forms a ledge as shown under C in Fig. 69. Then fix the cross-carriage pieces under the winders, with the back edge about flush with the backs of risers, securing one end to the well with screws, and the other to the wall string or the wall. Now cut short pieces, marked O O (Fig. 68), and fix them tightly in between the cross-carriage and the back of the riser as at B B in the section, Fig. 69. These carriages should be of 3-inch by 2-inch material. Now get a piece of wood, 1-inch by 3-inch, and cut pieces C C to fit tightly between the top back edge of the winders (or the ledge) and the pieces marked B B in section. This method makes a very sound and strong job of the winders; and if the stuff is roughly planed, and blocks are glued on each side of the short cross-pieces O O O, it is next to impossible for the winders ever to spring or squeak. When the weight is carried in this manner, the plasterer will have very little trouble in lathing so that a graceful soffit will be made under the stairs.