In the eleven dayes journey I had betweene Aleppo, and Beershack, through a part of Syria, the breadth of Mesopotamia, and Chelfania, a Province of the same, joyning with Tigris and Euphrates, and returning the same way againe; I found nothing worthy of remarkinge save the fertility of the soyle: Mesopotamia.which indeed in Mesopotamia, yeeldeth two crops of wheate in the yeare, and for a Bushell sowing, in diverse places, they recoyle a hundreth againe.

The countrey it selfe is overcled with infinit Villages, having no eminent Towne of any note or consequence, except the City of Carahemen the seat of a Beglerbeg, who commandeth under him fourteene Sanzacks, and twenty sixe thousand Timariots. The people here are for the most part beleevers in Christ, but alas too silly, untoward, and ignorant Christians: And yet though without learning, or great understanding therein, they are wonderfull zealous in their profession, and great sufferers for it also.

Beershack.This barbarous Towne of Beershacke, being situate on Euphrates standeth in the Chelfaines Countrey, and is supposed to have beene Padan-aram, where Laban dwelt, and where Jacob kept Labans sheepe, though some interpret all Mesopotamia, then to have beene called Padanaram: from whence North-east, and not farre hence are the demolished fragments of Ninivie on Tigris, whose very ruines are now come to ruine: The decayes whereof being much semblable to that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta, or to the stony heapes of Jerico, the detriments of Thebes, [V. 201.]the relicts of Tyrus, or to the finall overthrow of desolate Troy. This Countrey of Chelfaine, is the place most agreeable with Scripture, where the earthly Paradice was once set, though now impossible to be found out.

Mesopotamia.Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine, but by the nature of the soile is marvellous fruitfull: It is bordred with Caldea, on the East: Euphrates on the South: Syria on the North: and Arabia Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which hath beene so oft changed by Turkes, that the true Antiquity of it, can hardly be knowne: It is both large and populous, and furnished with all sorts of merchandize, especially of Indigo, and Spices, that are brought over land from Goa, & other places in India, which draweth a concurrance of all nations to it.

A notable obedience.Here I remember of a notable obedience done to the great Turke, by the great Bassaw of Aleppo, who was also an Emeere, or hereditary Prince: to wit, the yeare before my comming hither, he had revolted against his Emperour, and fighting the Bassawes of Damascus, and Carahemen, overcame them: The yeare following, and in my being there, the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople a Showse, and two Janisaries in Ambassage to him: where, when they came to Aleppo, the Bassaw was in his owne Countrey at Mesopotamia: The messengers make hast after him, but in their journey they met him comming backe to Aleppo, accompanied with his two sonnes, and sixe hundred Horse-men. Upon the high way they delivered their message, where he stood still, and heard them: The proffer of Achmet was, that if he would acknowledge his rebellion, and for that treason committed send him his head, his eldest Sonne should both inherit [V. 202.]his possessions, and Bassawship of Aleppo, otherwise he would come with great forces in all expedition, and in his proper person he would utterly raze him and all his, from the face of the earth.

At which expression, the Bassaw knowing that he was not able to resist the invincible Armie of his Master, and his owne presence, he dismounted from his horse, and went to counsell with his sonnes, and nearest friends: where he, and they concluded, it was best for him to dye, being an old man, to save his race undestroyed, and to keepe his sonne in his authority and inheritance: This done, the Bassaw went to prayer, and taking his leave of them all, sate downe upon his knees, where the Showse The Bassa of Aleppo beheaded.stroke off his head, putting it in a Boxe, to carry it with him for Constantinople. The dead corps were carried to Aleppo and honourably buried, for I was an eye witnesse to that funerall feast: And immediatly thereafter, the Showse by Proclamation and power from the Emperour, fully possessed the sonne in his Fathers lands, offices, Bassawship, and the authority of all the Easterne Syria, part of Mesopotamia, and the Assyrian Countrey; for this Bassaw of Aleppo is the greatest in commandement and power of all the other Bassawes in the Turkes dominions; except the Bassa, or Beglerbeg of Damascus; and yet the former in hereditary power, farre exceedeth the other; being a free Emeer, and thereupon a Prince borne: The force of his commandement reacheth to eighteene Sanzacks, and thirty thousand Timariots, besides Janisaries, and other inferiour souldiers, which would make up as many more.

This City is called in the Scriptures Aram-Sobab, 2. Sam. 8. 3. and Aleppo of Alep, which signifieth milke, whereof there is a great plenty here: There are Pigeons brought up here as after an incredible manner, who will [V. 203.]flie betweene Aleppo, and Babylon, being thirty dayes Flying Pigeons with letters.journey distant in forty eight houres: carrying letters and newes, which are tied about their neckes, to Merchants of both Townes, and from one to another; who onely are imployed in the time of hasty and needfull intendements; their education to this tractable expedition is admirable, the flights and arrivals of which I have often seene in the time of my wintering in Aleppo, which was the second Winter after my departure from Christendome.

Syria.Syria hath on the East Armenia major: On the South Mesopotamia: On the North Cilicia and the sea: On the West Gallilee and Phœnicia: In the Bible the Syrians are called Aramites, who were an obscure people subject to the Persians, and subdued by Alexander: after whose death this Countrey, with Persia, and other adjacent Provinces fell to the share of Seleucus Nicanor; who also wrested from the successors of Antigonus, the lesser Asia. This Kingdome hath suffered many alterations, especially by the Persians, Grecians, Armenians, Romanes, Ægyptians, lastly, by the Turkes, and dayly molested by the incursive Arabs.

In my expectation here, and the Spring come, (being disappointed of my desired aimes) I pretended to visite Jerusalem in my backe-comming; and for the furtherance of my determination, I joyned with a Caravan of Armenians, and Turkes, that were well guarded with Janisaries, and Souldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way, and some mindfull to the furthest marke. And for my better safegard (being alwaies alone which by all, was ever much admired) the Venetian Consull tooke surety of the Captaine, that he should protect me safely from theeves, cut-throates, and the exactions of [V. 204.]tributes by the way, delivering me freely into the hands of the Padre Guardiano at Jerusalem: Which being done, I hired a Mule from a Turke, to carry my victuals; and so set forward with them. The number of our company A Caravan of Armenians.were about 900. Armenians, Christian Pilgrimes, men and women: 600. Turkes trafficking for their owne businesse, and 100. souldiers, three Showsses, and sixe Janizaries, to keepe them from invasions.

Betweene Aleppo and Damascus, we had nine dayes journey, in five of which, we had pleasant travelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had beene builded for the support of Travellers, and are well maintained: But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more then midway, we had dangerous travelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated with rocky mountaines, and sometimes in point of choaking for lacke of water. The confusion of this multitude, was not onely grievous in regard of the extreame heate, providing of victuals at poore Villages, and scarcity of water, to fill our bottles, made of Boare-skinnes; but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell one over another, in great heapes; in danger to be smothered: yea; and oftentimes we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten, by our conducting Turkes. In this journeying I remember the Turke who ought my Mule, was for three dayes exceeding favourable unto me, in so much, that I began to doubt of his carriage, fearefully suspecting the Italian Proverbe.

[V. 205.]But when I perceived, his extraordinary service and Pagan flattery.flattery, was onely to have a share of the Tobacco I carried with me, I freely bestowed a pound thereof upon him: Which he and his fellowes tooke as kindly, as though it had beene a pound of gold, for they are excessively adictted to smoake, as Dutch men are to the Pot: which ever made me to carry Tobacco with me, to acquist their favour, over and above their fials, more then ever I did for my owne use: for in these dayes I tooke none at all, though now as time altereth every thing, I am (Honoris Gratia) become a courtly Tobacconist; more for fashion then for liking: The Turkish Tobacco pipes are more than a yard long and commonly of Wood or Canes, beeing joynd in three parts, with Lead or white Iron; their severall mouths receaving at once, a whole ounce of Tobacco; which lasteth a long space, and because of the long pipes, the smoake is exceeding cold in their swallowing throates.

At our accustomed dismounting to recreate our selves, and refresh the beasts, I would often fetch a walke, to stretch my legs, that were stifled with a stumbling beast; wherewith the Turkes were mightily discontented, and in derision would laugh, and mocke me: For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes, or stand to eate; their usage being such, that when they come from the horse backe, presently sit downe on the ground, folding their feete under them, when they repose, dine, and suppe. So doe also their Artizans and all the Turkes in the World sit allwayes crosse legged, wrongfully abusing the commendable consuetude of the industrious Tailors. In their houses they have no bed to lye on, nor chaire to sit on, nor table to eate on, but a bench made of boords along the house side, of a foot high from the floore, spred [V. 206.]over with a Carpet; whereon they usually sit eating, drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manuall exercises, all in one place. Neither will the best sort of Mahometans be named Turkes, because it signifieth banished in the Hebrew tongue, and therefore they call Turkes are called Musilmans.themselves Musilmans, to wit, good beleevers: where in deed for good, it is a false Epithite, but certainely for firme beleevers they are wonderfull constant; and so are all ignorants of whatsoever profession: even like to the Spaniard, who in the midst of all his evills, yet he remaineth alwaies fidele to all the usurpations, the Hispanicall Crowne can compasse.

They never unclothe themselves when they goe to rest, neither have they any bed-clothes, save onely a coverlet above them: I have seene hundreds of them after this manner, lie ranked like durty swine, in a beastly stie, or loathsome Jades in a filthy stable.

Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behind us on the mountaines) we entred in a pleasant Plaine of three leagues of length, adorned with many Villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, we were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without, on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed three dayes. Having all which time given us twice a day provision for our selves and provender for our beasts gratis; being allowed by the Grand Signior to all kind of strangers whatsoever; that come to Damascus with any Caravan; being a singular comfort and advantage to weary and extorted Travellers.

Damascus is called Shamma.Damascus is the Capitall Citie of Syria, called by Turkes, Shamma, and is situated on a faire Plaine, and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Paraphar and Abdenah) excellent Orchards, and all other [V. 207.]naturall objects of elegancy: That for situation, Artizens, all manner of commodities, and varietie of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not paralelled. By Turkes it is called, the Garden of Turkie, or rather their earthly Paradice, because of a fenced Garden there, where a Garison of Turkes lie continually keeping that tree Mouslee, whereon as they alledge the forbidden Aple grew, wherewith the Serpent deceived Eve, and shee Adam, and from whence the great Turke is also styled, keeper of the terrestriall Paradice.

The antiquitie of Damascus.Some hold this Citie was built by Eleazer the servant of Abraham; and other say it is the place where Caine slew Abel, where indeed it is most likely to be so: for hard by Damascus I saw a pillar of Brasse erected there for a commemoration of that unnaturall murther of Cain executed upon his innocent brother. But howsoever I perswade thee, it is a pleasant and gallant Citie, well walled, and fortified with a strong Castle, wherein the Bassaw remaineth: the most part of the streets are covered, so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in Winter from the raine.

The like commoditie (but not after that forme) hath Padua in Lombardy: Their Bazar, or Market place is also covered, so are commonly all the Bazars or Bezestans in Turky: The best Carobiers, Adams Apples, and Grenadiers that grow on the earth is here: neare unto the Bazar there is a Moskie called Gemmah, wherein my Guide shewed me the Sepulcher of Ananias, and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul: In another street, I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hollow Celler under the ground, and where the Disciples let Paul downe through the wall in a basket: In the street where they fell their Viæno, my Interpreter shewed me a great gate of fine [V. 208.]mettall, which he sayd was one of the doores of the Temple of Salomon, and was transported thence, by the Tartarians, who conquered Jerusalem about three hundred and eighty yeares agoe, who for the heavy weight thereof, were enforced to leave it here, being indeede a relicke of wonderfull bignesse: And I saw also such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be sold, as beere or wine is rife with us.

This Paradisiat Shamma, is the mother City, and most beautiful place of all Asia, resembling every way (the tectures of her Houses excepted being platforme) that matchlesse patterne and mirrour of beauty, the City of Antwerp. The onely best Shables, or short crooked swords, that be in the world are made here; and so are all other their weapons, as halfe Pikes, Bowes, and Arrowes, and Baluckoes of steele, that Horse-men carry in their hands: their shafts being three foot long, their heads great and round, and sharply guttered; wherewith they use to braine or knocke downe their enemies in the field. The forces of the Bassa of Damascus.The Beglerbeg or Bassa of Damascus, is the greatest of commandement of all other Bassaes in Asia: Having under his authority (as he is under his Emperour) twenty two Sanzacks, and they conducting under all the aforesayd three, forty thousand Timariots or Horse-men, besides two thousand Janizaries, which are the guard of the Bassa, and Garrison of the Citty. His Beglerbership extendeth over the greater halfe of Syria, a part of the two Arabiaes Fœlix and Petrea, Phenicia, Galilee, Samaria, Palestina, Judea, Jerusalem, Idumea, and al the Northerne parts of Arabia Desartuous, even to the frontiers of Egipt.

The meanes of the preservation of so great a state, is only by an induced confidence upon the power, and force [V. 209.]of those Timariots who as well have their pay and locall grounds of compensation in time of tranquillitie, as warres, to defend these Countries, from the incursions of the wilde Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turkes, and also Strangers: and cannot possibly be brought to a quiet, and well formed manner of living; but are continuall spoilers of these parts of the Turkes Dominions. That mischiefe daily increaseth, rather then any way diminisheth. They taking example from the beastly Turkes, adde by these patterns more wickednesse, to the badnesse of their owne dispositions: Savage Arabian Robbers.So that every one of these Savages, according to his power, dealeth with all men uncivilly & cruelly, even like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts, living all upon rapine and robbery, wanting all sense of humanity, more then a shew of appearance: Whereby being combind together, doe tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.

Thus they in that violent humour, invading also these of Affricke, hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with thirty thousand Timariots, which defend the frontiers of Ægypt and Gozan: Leaving all the Turkes at Damascus (save onely our Janizaries and Souldiers) within the space of two houres after our departure from thence travelling in the way to Jerusalem; the whole Armenians fell downe on the ground, kissing it, and making many sincere demonstrations of unwonted devotion. At the which I being amazed, stood gazing, asking my Trench man, what newes? who replied, saying, it was the place where S. Paul was converted, which they had (and all Christianes should have) in great regard. The place was covered with an old Chappell, and,

Three dayes were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilie, which is the beginning of Canaan: in two of which three, we encountred with marishes and quagmires, being a great hinderance to us: This barren, and marish Countrey, is a part of Arabia Petrea, comming in with a point betweene Galilee, and Syria, running along even to the South-west skirt of Libanus, which indeed in that place, farre more than Jordan divideth the true Syria from Canaan; this Petrean Countrey it selfe, devalling even downe to the limits of Jacobs bridge, cutteth away the denomination of Syria, from this parcell of ground, till you come Eastward to the more laborious Plaines.

A dangerous way.Through this passage, it is most undoubtedly a very theevish way; for as we travelled in the night, there were many of us forced to carry burning lights in our hands, and our souldiers had their Harquebuzes ready to discharge: all to affray the blood-thirsty Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for the advantage upon Travellers: not unlike unto the Lawlesse Wood Carnes in Ireland. This part of Arabia is called Petrosa, because it is so rockie, and some thinke of Petra the chiefe Towne: It was aunciently divided in two regions Nabathia, and Agara, possessed first by the Hagarens, discended of Abraham and Hagar: It is also thought to be the land of the Midianites whether Moses fled to, and kept sheepe; and Mount Horeb is here, whereon the Lord did shew him the land of Promise.

[V. 211.]Divers of these Petrean Arabs, converse, and dwell amongst the Turkes; whom we tearme in respect of the other, civill Arabs. South from hence, lieth Arabia Fælix bordering with the Indian Sea; which is the most fruitfull and pleasant soyle in all Asia; abounding with Balsamo, Myrrhe, and Frankincense, Gold and Pearles, especially about Medina, the second Citie to Meccha: The other Townes of note are Horan, the chiefe Port of the South Ocean, And Alteroch, the only Towne where Christians are in greatest number in that Countrey.

Truely with much difficulty, and greater danger passed we these Arabia Petrea.Petrean journeys. Here I remarked a singular qualitie, and rare perfection, in the carefull conduction of our Captaine; who would, when we came to any dangerous place, give the watch-word of St. Johanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speake or whisper after that warning under the paine of a Harquebusado. And no more we durst, unlesse he had stretcht out his hand, making us a signe (when occasion served) of liberty, least by our tumultuous noyse in the night, our enemies should have the fore-knowledge of our comming; and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times confused effects, without some severe punishment. Him selfe rod stil in the Vangard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two Janizaries, and forty Souldiers, and the other foure Janizaries and sixty Souldiers, were appointed to be the backe-gard, for feare of sudden assaults. Thus, most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling, not with insolencie, but with prudent and magnanimous virilitie: for my part, I must needs say, the diligent care of that benigne Caravan extended over me, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to sacrifice congratulations sufficiently [V. 212.]to his well-deserving mind: yet in the meane while, my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest endevours; and notwithstanding, of this high conceived regard, yet in some frivolous things, and for a small trifle, he privately wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposition, and that my life hung in his hands) to be too forward to seeke a redresse. For oftentimes an A corrupted Caravan.inconvenience is most convenient; and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure, and the violent enemy of age is griefe; even so are the inordinate desires of inconscionable strangers toward Travellers, who preferring avarice above honesty, care onely for that part of a man which is his fortune, whose friendship beginning onely in an outward show, must end in the midst of a mans money; as who would say, such like were rather imployed, as their imployments rewarded, and therefore in unlawfull things they must sucke the honey of their owne preposterous ends: And thus it fared with him, at the paying of my tributes, by the way for my head, he caused me oft to pay, more then reason, to the Moores, Turkes, and civill Arabs, receiving secretly backe from them the over-plus; which my Turkish Servant perceiving, made my Trenchman tell me, that I might be fore-seene therein.

But such is the covetous nature of man, that with his covenant he cannot be contented, unlesse he seeke otherwise, by all unlawfull meanes to purchase himselfe an unjust gaine: But the high respect I had of his other perfections, made me oversee and winke at that imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially remembring my selfe to be under his protection, I alwayes endeavoured my aimes so, that in his sight, I wonne extraordinary [V. 213.]favour: insomuch, that in danger, or securitie, he would ever have me neere by him, which I also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my owne safety.

The obligation of my bounden duety, taught me to no other end, then ever to respect the benevolence of his affection, and to suppresse my owne weake judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance of his condigne merit.

But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the after-noone, we entred in Galilee, passing along a faire Bridge, that is over the River Jordan, which divideth a part of this stony Arabia from Galilee. Jacobs Bridge.This Bridge by the Armenians, is called Jacobs Bridge; and not farre hence, they shewed me the place, where Jacob wrestled with the Angell, and where Esau met his brother Jacob, to have killed him being upon the East side of the River: Jordan is scarcely knowne by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his greater growth, ending in Sodome, whereof in the owne place, I shall more amply discourse: Betweene Jacobs Bridge and Jerusalem, we had sixe dayes journey, five whereof were more pleasant than profitable, in regard of the great tributs I payd by the way for my head, that at sundry places and into one day, I have payd for my freedome in passage twelve Chickens of gold, amounting to five pounds eight shillings of English money: A journall tribute more fit for a Prince to pay, than a Pilgrime; the admiration onely resting upon this, how I was furnished with these great moneyes I dayly disbursed.

Aprill the eighteene day, according to the computation of the Romane Calender, and by ours, March the eight and twenty, I entred in Galilee, a Province of Canaan; This [V. 214.]Countrey was first called Canaan from Canan the sonne of Cham: secondly the Land of Promise, because it was promised By the Lord to Abraham and his seed to possesse: Thirdly, the land of Israel, of the Israelites, so called from Jacob, who was surnamed Israel: Fourthly, Judea, from the Jewes, or the people of the tribe of Judah: Fifthly, Palestine quasi Philistim, the land of the Philistins. And now sixtly, terra sancta, the holy land, because herein was wrought many wonderfull miracles, but especially the worke of our salvation. It is in length 180. and in breadth 60. miles: yet of that salubrity of aire and fertility of soyle, flowing with milke and hony, that before the comming of the Israelites it maintayned thirty Kings, with their people, and afterward the two potent Kingdomes of Israel and Judah; in which David numbred one million and 300000. fighting men, besides them of the tribe of Benjamin and Levi: It is most certayne, that by the goodnesse of the Climate and soile, especially by the Canaan greatly changed.blessing of God, it was the most fruitfull Land in the World: but by experience, I find now the contrary, and the fruitfulnes thereof to be changed, God cursing the Land together with the Jewes, then the (but now dispersed) inhabitants thereof. Neither are the greatest part of these Easterne countries so fertile, as they have beene in former ages, the earth as it were growing olde, seemeth weary to beare the burthen of any more encrease; and surely the two eyes of Day and Night, with the Planets, and Starres, are become neyther so forcible, so bright, nor warme as they have beene: Time from olde antiquity, running all things to devasted desolation, making the strong things weake, and weake things feeble, at last it returneth all things to just nothing: and there is the end of all beginnings, and an infallible Argument of the dissolution to come by the day of judgement.[V. 215.]

The Jewes are also tearmed Hebrai, or Hebrewes from Heber one of Abrahams Progenitors, or Hebræ quasi Abrahæi: who at their discent into Egypt, were but seventy soules being the issue of Jacob, and his twelve Sonnes. The posterity of which Patriarchy, continued in bondage two hundred and fifteene yeares, till in the yeare of the world, two thousand foure hundred fifty three: At which time, the Lord commiserating their heavy oppressions under the Egyptians, delivered them with a strong hand, and placed them here: which then was inhabited by the Hittites, Amorites, Perisits, and Jebusits. The Holy Land.Canaan is divided into five Provinces, viz. Judea, Galilee, Palestina, Samaria, and Phenicia: Some divide it only in three, Palestina, Judea, and Galilee: It hath beene by others also nominated in generall, Syria, by which Calculation, they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to Egypt under that name. But howsoever they differ in Descriptions, it is most certayne, that at this day, it is onely, and usually divided into these five particular Provinces: Galilee, and Palestina, for the present, are the most fertile and largest Provinces thereof, especially Galilee, which in some parts, yeeldeth graine twice a yeare, and for abundance of Silke, Cotton-woole, delicate Wines, Hony, Oyle, and fruites of all kindes; I hold it never a whit more decayed now, than at any time when the glory of Israel was at the highest: This province of Galilee is forty eight miles long, and twenty five broad, having Phenicia to the North: Samaria to the west: [V. 216.]Jordan to the South: and to the East and North-East, a part or poynt of Arabia-Petrosa, and the South-west end of Libanus.

After we had travailed a great way, along the Lake of Genasareth, which is of length eight leagues, and large foure: where I saw the decayed Townes of Bethsaida, and Tyberias, lying on the North-side of the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night: in which wee had no Canes to save us from the Arabs, nor coverture above our heads, but the hard ground to lye on, which was alwayes my Bed, in the most parts of Asia: In the night, when we slept, the Souldiers kept Centinell, and in the day, when we Reposed, they slept, and we watched.

Cana in Galilee.This Cana was the towne wherein our Saviour wrought the first Miracle, converting at the Marriage, Water into Wine: And is now called by the Turkes Callieros or Calinos, being a towne composed of two hundred fire Houses: The inhabitants beeing partly Arabs, partly Jewes, and partly some Christian Georgians: the circumjacent fieldes, beeing both Fertile, Delectable, and plaine.

The day following, imbracing our way, wee passed over a little pleasant Mountayne, where the Armenian Patriarke (for so was there one with them) went into an old Chappell, and all the rest of the Pilgrimes thronged about him, using many strange Ceremonies, for it was in that place (as they sayd) Where Christ fed five thousand people, with five Barley loaves, and two fishes. And indeede was very likely to have beene the place: the auncient Chappell, showing as yet some beautiful decorements, do dignifie both the Monument, and the Memory of the Founder thereof.

Continuing our journey, wee saw Mount Tabor on our [V. 217.]left hand, which is a pretty round Mountaine, beset about with comely trees: I would gladly have seene the Monument of that place, where the Transfiguration of Christ was: But the Caravan, mindfull to visite Nazareth, left the great way of Jerusalem, and would by no perswasion go thither.

That night we lodged in a poore Village, called Heerschek, where we could get neither meate for our selves, nor provender for the Beasts, but some of our Company for their supper, had a hundred stroakes from the Moores and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrimes had troden upon the graves of their dead friends, which by no meanes they can tollerate: They made no small uproare amongst us, desperately throwing stones and darts, till we were all glad to remove halfe a mile from that place; and the next morning we passed by Cæsarea Philippi.Cæsarea Philippi which is now so miserably decayed, that the ruined Towne affordeth not above twenty foure dwelling houses, being for ruines, a second Towne, to sacked Samaria, or another spectacle of time like to the now ragged Towne of the Moorish Bethulia: It was built by Philip one of the Tetrarchs in honour of Tiberius Cæsar, and now called by the Moores Hedarasco. Here was Herod smitten by the Angels, and eaten of wormes, after the Sycophanticall people called his Rethoricall oration, the voyce of God, and not of man: Here our Saviour healed the woman of the bloody fluxe, and raised from death to life the daughter of Jairus: Here S. Peter baptized Cornelius, and S. Paul disputed against Tertullius in the presence of Felix.

Aprill the 20. day, about ten of the clocke, (passing the River Kyson) we arrived at Nazareth, and there reposed till the evening, providing our selves of victuals [V. 218.]and water: In this Towne dwelt Joseph, and the Virgin Mary; and in which also our Saviour was brought up under the vigilant care of Joseph and Mary. After wee had dined, the Armenians arose, and went to a heape of stones, the ruines of an old house, before the which they fell downe upon their knees; praysing God: And that ruinous lumpe (say they) was the house where Mary dwelt, when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annunciation of Salvation to the World: I am fully perswaded, they carried away above five thousand pounds weight, to keepe in a A counter buffet for Loretta.memoriall thereof: then did I remember of the Chappell of Loretta, and told the Caravan, that I saw that house standing in Italy, which (as the Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, said he, we Armenians cannot beleeve that, neither many other assertions of the Roman Church; for we certainely know by Christians, that have from time to time dwelt here ever since, that this is both the place, and stones of the house: Let Papists coyne a new Law to themselves, we care not, for as they erre in this, so doe they erre in all, following meerely the traditions of men, they runne galloping post to Hell. The Patriarke being informed by the laughing Caravan of these newes, asked me in disdaine (thinking it had beene an Article of my beliefe) if I saw that house, or beleeved that the Chappell of Loretta was such a thing: to whom I constantly answered, I did not beleeve it, affirming it was onely but a divellish invention, to deceive the blind-folded people, and to fill the Coffers of the Romane Priests: Now thou bottomlesse Gulfe of Papistry, here I forsake thee, no Winter-blasting Furies of Satans subtile stormes, can make ship-wracke of my Faith, on the stony shelfes of thy deceitfull deepes.

Thus, and after this manner too: are all the illusions [V. 219.]of their imaginary and false miracles, first invented partly by monasteriall poverty, then confirmed by provincial bribery, and lastly they are faith-sold for consistoricall lucre. In the time of our staying here, the Emeere or Lord of the Towne sent sixe women, conducted by 12. of his servants, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrime in our company; to be used by him and others, Libidinous leachery.whom so he would elect to be his fellow labourers: Which indeed he did kindly accept, & invited me to that feast: but I gave him the refusall, little regarding such a frivolous commodity. He, and some of the chiefest Pilgrimes entertained them for the space of 3. houres, and sent them backe, giving to their conductors fifteene Piasters, in a reward. Truely if I would rehearse the impudency of these Whoores, and the bruitishnesse of the Armenians, as it is most ignominious to the actors; so no doubt, it would be very loathsome to the Reader.

Such is the villanie of these Orientall slaves under the Turkes; that not onely by conversing with them, learne some of their damnable Hethnicke customes, but also going beyond them in beastly sensualnesse, become worse then bruite beasts: This maketh me remember a worthy saying of that Heathnish Romane Emperour Marcus Aurelius, who in consideration of fleshly lusts, said; that although he were sure, that the Gods would not punish him for the offence; yet he would forbeare it, in regard of the filthinesse of the fact it selfe: Indeed of a Pagane a noble and vertuous resolution, when such base and beastly Christianes, these wretched Armenians, committed with these Infidelish harlots a twofold kind of voluptuous abhomination, which my conscience commands me to conceale: least I frequent this Northern world, with that which their nature never knew, nor their knowledge have [V. 220.]heard hearing of the like: but God in his just judgements, that same night, threatned both to have punished the doers, and the whole company for their sakes: For we having resolved to travell all that night, and because the way was rocky, and hard to be knowne, and perillous for Arabs; we hired a Christian guide, named Joab, and agreed with him to take us to Lidda, which was two dayes journey. But before we advanced to our passage, Joab had sent a privie messenger before us, to warne about three hundred Arabs (who had their abode on the South side A villanous plot.of Mount Carmell) to meete him at such a place as he had appointed; giving them to know, wee were rich and well provided with Chickens and Sultans of gold, and Piasters of silver; and that he should render us into their hands for such a recompense and consideration, as their savage judgements should thinke fit; according to the spoyles and booties they should obtaine, together with the miserable murder and losse of our lives. This being done, and unknowne to us, we marched along, travelling faster then our ordinary pace, some on horse, and some on foote, for my pilgrimage was ever pedestriall: which our guide suspecting, that by our celerity wee should goe beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot, began to crosse us grievously; leading us up and downe amongst pooles and holes, whither he listed; where many of our Camels & Asses were lost, and could not be recovered, because we all began to suspect and feare; which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieve their perishing beasts.

In the end, the Captaine and Janisaries, intreated him earnestly to bring us in the right way; but the more they requested, the more obdurat was his heart, replying, he was mistaken, and could not finde it, till day light: upon [V. 221.]the which words, the company was stayed, and in the meanewhile there came a Turke, one of our Souldiers unto the Captaine, saying; he saw the guide, before our A treacherous guide.departure from Nazareth, send a Moore before him, for what respect he knew not, being long at privat conference. Whereupon, they straight bound him with ropes, on a horse backe, threatning him with death, to cause him confesse the trueth.

In the midst of this tumult, I having got sight of the North-starre, (which seemd exceeding low to me) considered thereby, that the villaine had led us more to the Southward, then to the Westward, which was our way to Jerusalem: Whereupon I intreated the Caravan to turne our faces Northward, otherwise we should be cut off, and that suddenly: for although (said I) it may peradventure be, that we are three or foure miles short of the place intended for our massacre, yet they missing us, will like ravening Wolves hunt here and there; wherefore, if we incline to the North, (God willing) we shall prevent their bloody designes. To the which advice (being duely pondered) they yeelded; and so I became their guide, in that darke night, till morning: for none of them knew that Starre, neither the nature of it. At last this desperate wretch considering that either by our vanquishing, or the enemies victory, he could not escape, sith his treason was revealed; began to beg pardon of the Caravan, saying that if he could have any surety of his life, he would sufficiently informe us, how to eschew these eminent dangers, for we were all in extreame perill of our lives; and not so much courage nor comfort left us, as the very smallest hope of any reliefe.

The Captaine being distracted with feare, replied he would, and thereupon swore a solemne oath, so did the [V. 222.]Janisaries sweare by the head of Mahomet, for the like effect: Which being done, he was untied, and confessed, that if we had continued in our way, he led us, wee had beene all put to the edge of the Sword: and falling down on his knees, cried oft with teares, mercy, mercy, mercy.

All that night we went with the Starre, and against morning wee were in the Westerne confines of Phœnicia, and at the beginning of Palestine, close by the marine, and within halfe a mile of Tyrus. This sometimes renowned Tyrus is called Sur.Citty of Tyrus, called now by the Moores Sur, was famous for her Purples, and Collonies dispersed over all the World by her Citizens; and once a kingdome of great antiquity and long continuance. The most worthiest of her Kings, were Hiram in strict bond of Confederacy, with Salomon, and Pigmalion the brother of Dido, who built Carthage: This seat, giving way to the Persian Monarchy, was about the overthrow of Darius, beleagured by Alexander: who had so much adoe with extraordinary expence of men, money, and great labour to conquer it, being then separated from the maine Continent, by the Sea, but now joyned to the firme Land: and before you come to the Citty, there lyeth a great banke of sand, where it is likely the Sea hath beene in Alexanders time: Though now, as time altereth every thing, the Sea be fled from that place, which maketh that ruinous Towne seeme more desolate. At the breach of day, I, and certaine Armenians went to visite this decayed Towne, and found the most famous ruines here, that the World for memory can affoord, and a Delicious incircling Harbour, inclos’d within the middle of the Towne, fit to receive smal Barkes, Frigots, and Galleots: the compassing fore-face whereof, beeing all of foure squard Marble and Alabaster stones: the most part of all which [V. 223.]Houses have stood on pillars of the same stones: the The ruines of Tyrus.infinite number whereof, may as yet bee, (above and below the Sands) perspectively beheld. There be onely some nineteene fire houses heere, which are Moores: and is now under the Emeere of the Drusians, who remayneth in Sydon. The East part of this Countrey aboundeth in Balme, Honny, and Oyle, and was the Seate of Asher of whom Moses prophecied, Deut. 33. 24. that hee should dippe his feete in Oyle.

Here these Egyptian Moores, for so they were first bred there: brought us to a pillar lying upon the ground, of nine severall colours of Marble, being one intire stone, and the length of it was twenty two foot of my measure, and eight in compasse: Which sayd they, was one of the Sampsons Pillar.pillars that Sampson pulled downe upon the Philistines at the houre of his Death. To whom I answered, that Sampson dyed at Azath, the furthest South-west part of Palestine, where hee bore downe the House of Dagon, upon the Philistines: And I thinke the auncient Tyrians, sayd I, could not transport that Pillar so far hither: But they the more constantly affirmed it, and so did these Armenians that were with mee confirme it also, some of whom, had beene twice there before: yet howsoever it was, I brought home a pound weight of it, and presented the halfe thereof, to King James of blessed Memory.

Here by accident, in returning backe to the Caravan, I met with an English Factor, named Maister Brockesse, who then remayned at Sydon, eighteene miles from this place, and had been downe at Acre, about some negotiations: Who indeede eftsoones, and kindly tooke mee into a Moorish House by the Sea side, and one of his acquaintance: where instantly we swallowed downe such joviall and deep carrouses of Leaticke wine, that both hee and I, were almost fastned in the last plunge of [V. 224.]understanding: Yet neverthelesse, he conveyed me backe to my company, and put me safe into the hands of the Caravan, with whom afterwards I diverse times met with here at London; to whose kindnesse I celebrate the memory of these lines.

But now the Sunne discovering the earth, and the night banished to the inferiour world, we were all encouraged, for the light of day lends comfort: The Captaine (sending backe that false Judas, for so was he sworne to do) sent a post to Tyrus for a new guide, who came forthwith, and brought us in our way to Mount Carmell, for by it we The Towne of Sarepta.behoved to go; and in our way we met with the desolate Towne of Sarepta nigh thereunto adjoyning, where Elias was sustained in a great famine by a Widdow, whose sonne he raised from death.

Great are the mercies of God, for as he hath made man an excellent creature, so hath he also indued him with two great powers in his mind: The one a wise power of understanding, by which he penetrateth into the knowledge of things: the other a strong power of dexterous resolving; whereby he executeth things well understood, for we having judged the worst, resolved the best: and by his Almighty providence were freed from that apparent danger, although the former dayes whoredome, and unnaturall vices, deserved a just punishment.

This I intimate to all Travellers in generall, that if they would that God should further them in their attempts, blesse their voyages, and graunt them a safe returne to their native Countries (without the which, what contentment have they for all their paines) that they would constantly refraine from whoredome, drunkennesse, and too much familiarity with Strangers: For a Traveller [V. 225.]that is not temperate, and circumspect in all his actions, although he were headed like that Herculean Serpent Hydra, yet it is impossible he can returne in safety from danger of Turkes, Arabs, Moores, wild beasts, & the deadly operative extremities of heat, hunger, thirst, and cold.

Approaching to Mount Carmell, and leaving it upon our right hand betweene us and the marine coast, I beheld a farre off upon the top of the hill, the place where Elias ascended to heaven, when he left his Cloake behind him to Elizeus his disciple. This mountaine is foure miles of length, lying South and North, the North end bordering with the Sea, neare to Acre, called anciently Ptolomæis, and the South end joyning with the borders of Samaria, through the which confine we past.

Samaria.Leaving Samaria on our left hand, we entred into a faire Plaine, adorned with fruitfull trees, and all other ornaments that pleasant fields affoord, but no Village wee saw. Marching thus about the declining of the Sunne from the Meridian, we came in sight of two hundred pavillions, all pitched in rankes; yeelding the prospect of a little Citie, by a brooke side of water: which being perceived, the Captaine began to censure what they might be; and immediately there came riding towards us, sixe naked fellowes, well mounted on Arabian Geldings, who demanded what wee were? and whither we were bound with such a multitude; and if there were any Franks of Christendome in our company. To whom the Janisaries replied, we were purposed to Jerusalem, and that there was but one Franke with them: Upon the which they presently sought me, demanding Caffar, Caffar; that was tribute for my head, & caused me perforce notwithstanding of the resisting Caravan, and Janizaries, to pay them presently for my life seven Chickens of gold, seven times [V. 226.]nine shillings starling: And this is, because sayd they our King is resident in these Tents, and therefore we have tripled his tribute: And yet were they discontented, because there were no moe franks in our company, for from the Armenians, they could not, nor would not seeke any tribute, because they were tributary slaves and subjects to the great Turke: neither also of any other Christiane borne in his dominions, when they shall happen to fall into their hands.

They returning backe to their Prince, with the malediction of my heart, and the sorrow of a Pilgrimes purse, we marching on in our way, that day wee travelled above thirty foure miles, and pitched at a Village called Adoash, being composed of threescore Moorish and Arabian houses, standing in a fruitfull and delicate Plaine; and garnished with Olive, Date, and Figge-trees, which were both pleasant and profitable: where we found also good hearbes to eate, and abundance of water to drinke, and also to fill our emptied bottles: As wee lay downe to sleepe after a hungry supper, on the hard ground, and our guard watching us; The savage Arabian King.that same King of the Arabians came a little before mid-night, with twenty foure well horsed Runagats, and naked Courtiers, being armed with bowes and arrowes, and halfe-pikes, pointed at both ends with hard Steele; and asked for the Caravan, who presently awoke, and went to salute him, laying his hand on his breast, bowed his head very low; which is the usuall courtesie amongst the Infidels and Christians in these parts: For they never uncover their heads to any man; and after some short parley, they sate all downe on the grasse. The Caravan presented his rude like majesty with water, bread, hearbes, figs, garlike, and such things as he had.

As they were thus merry, at this poore banquet, the [V. 227.]awfull King tooke the Oath of our Conductor, if there were any mo Frankes there then I; and he having sworne the trueth, The King by a malignant informer, incontinently caused me to be brought before him; and staring me in the face, asked my Interpreter where were my companions? Who replied I had none: then sayd he; tell that dogge, or Elishole, he must acknowledge me with five peeces of gold more, otherwise (making a signe to his owne throate) I shall cut off his head, because (sayd he) I will not loose this nights travell for nothing: The which I being informed, and knowing that by no condition, there was resistance against such a scelerate Prince, Exaction of tribute.gave it him forth of mine owne hand, having consulted with my Captaine before, and that presently with a halfe smiling countenance; which he remarking, told the rest, it seemed I gave it with a good heart & a chearefull gesture, and to recompence my outward behaviour, he drunke a great draught of water to me: thinking thereby, he had done me more honour then all the Chickens of gold I gave him now, and in the morning; would doe him profit or pleasure: pleasure they could doe him none, for they were unlawfully and dishonestly got, and too delivered from the inward sorrow of my sighing soule; and no wonder, having spent two yeares great charges in Turky, before this time, but that I should have beene exceeding penurious of money, and thereupon desolate of reliefe and comfort.

Truely this was one of the greatest tributes I payed for one dayes journey, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. Two Arabian Kings.There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liveth on Euphrates, the desarts of Mesopotamia, sometimes [V. 228.]in Arabia Felix, and in some parts of Syria: And the other was hee to whom I payd this money wandereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestiall, one while in Arabia Petrea, and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as hee findeth good pastorage, and fresh Fountaynes. These two Kings are mortall enemies: and if by accident they meete, they fight most cruelly, bringing dammage, rapine, and destruction to themselves, and their followers: For it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their inordinate passions, beeing untamed Savages, and mis-regarders of civility, who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of their dispositions, with bloody and inhumane interprises. And yet all the rest of that night, after his returne from us, wee still expected some treacherous surprise, which made our souldiers stand stoutly on their guard, and wee Pilgrimes to our vigilant and naked defence: For the Turkes will not suffer Christians to carry weapons in al these Dominions, neither any where, where they command. And for all this great tribute, and nights danger of my life, heere was my present resolution: