Jerusalem, is now called by the Turkes, Kuddish, which is in their Language, a Holy Citie: It was first called Moriah, of Moria, one of the seaven heads of Syon, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac, Gen. 22. 2. and upon his offering Jerusalems antiquity.it was called Jerusalem, Gen. 14. 18. It was also named Salem, where Sem, or Melchisedech dwelt: and Jerusalem was also called Jebus, 2. Sam. 24. 16. And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to build the Temple, 2. Chron: 3. 1. which afterward was termed Hieron Salomonis, whence came by corruption, that word Hierosolyma. David, also in his Psalmes gave it divers names. And Jerusalem in the Arabick tongue is also called Beyt almo kadas: Beyt signifieth the house, almo kadas, viz. of Saints.

Jerusalem standeth in the same place where old Jerusalem stood, but not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length so spacious: for on the South side of Jerusalem, a great part of Mount Syon is left without, which was aunciently the heart of the old City; and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Calvary, and the holy grave within the walles, which were built by Sultan Selim: So that thereby the [VI. 239.]difference of the situation is not so great, though a part thereof be removed; but a man may boldly affirme, that the most part of this City is builded on that place, where the first Jerusalem was: as may truely appeare, and is made manifest by these mountaines, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon Jerusalem is both situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day, and are still seene, and knowne by the same; The foure hills of Jerusalem.as Mount Syon, Mount Calvary, Mount Moriah, and Mount Olivet. The forme of the situation of Jerusalem, is now like to a Hart, or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downeward, almost to the valley of Jehosaphat, which divideth Jerusalem, and Mount Olivet: The second head or point, bendeth out South-west upon Sion, bordering neare to the valley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on Mount Moriah, toward the North, and by-West, having its prospect to the buriall place of the Kings of Israel.

The walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato, which adorne Jerusalem more then any thing within it, the Holy Grave excepted. It is of circuite about three miles, and a halfe of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will not meddle withall, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply manifest the same; concerning the lamentable destruction of it; I refer that to the famous Historiographer Josephus, who largely discourseth of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the sword within this multipotent City, by The triumph of Titus.Vespasian, and Titus his sonne; being the messengers of Gods just judgements; which by his computation did amount beyond the number of eleven hundred thousands. But it is to be understood, they were not all at one time in Jerusalem; but came up by turnes and times, from the circumjacent Countries about by thousands, and as they [VI. 240.]were cut off so their numbers were aye renewed againe as necessity required.

The overthrow of Jerusalem.This City hath beene oft conquered by enemies: First, by Nabuchodanezzar, the Assirian King: Secondly, by the Greekes, and Alexander the Great, and also marvellously afflicted by Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed of Vespasian and Titus: Fifthly, it was reedified by Adrian the Emperour, and wonne againe by Gosdroes, the Persian King: Sixtly, it was overcome by Homer Califf the successour of Mahomet: Seaventhly, by the great Souldan of Egypt, and by Godfrey du Bulloine, a Christiane Prince: Eightly, by Saladine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus: Anno 1187. who reserved successively the Signiory thereof for a long time: And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperour of the Turkes, Anno 1517. joyning the holy Land together with Ægypt to his Empire, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detayned to this day: and by likelihood shall keepe it to the consummation of the world, unlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise, then the hopes of mans weake judgement can expect. Whence truely I may say, that when fortune would change friendship, she disleagueth conditionall amity, with the senselesse litargy of foule ingratitude. This City is now governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw, being placed there by the Bassaw of Damascus, whose Deputie he is; the other being chiefe Ruler under the Grand Signior over all the holy Land and the halfe of Siria. The Garrison of Jerusalem.There is a strong Garrison kept alwayes in Jerusalem, to withstand the Arabish invasions, consisting of eight hundred Souldiers, Turkes, and Moores, who are vigilant in the night and circumspect in the day time, so that none can enter the Towne [VI. 241.]without their knowledge; nor yet goe forth without their triall. This is a memorable note, and worthy of observation, that at that time, when the Cities of Jerusalem and Antiochia were recoverd from the Pagans by the meanes of Godfrey of Boulloin; the Pope of Rome that then was, was called Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius, and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: A notable observation.And at the same time, and long thereafter, when Jerusalem was reinthralled and seazed upon by Saladine; the Popes name was Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius; and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: After Herod the Idumean, soone to Anti-pater, in whose time Christ was borne: Archelaus, Agrippa Herod, who imprisoned Peter and James, and was eaten of vermine, in whose time Christ suffered; and Agrippa minor (before whom Paul pleaded) the last King of the Jews had raigned, (being strange Kings) in the last Kings time Jerusalem was overthrowne, and the Kingdome made a Province of the Romane Empire, Anno 37. After which desolation, the Jewes were over all the world dispersed; but afterward in a zealous consideration, were banished from the most part of the Christian Kingdomes: Out of France they were rejected by Philip the faire, Anno 1307. out of Spaine by Ferdinand the Catholicke, 1492. out of Portugale by Emanuell, 1497. out of England by Edward the fifth, 1290. out of Naples and Sicilia by Charles the fifth, 1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany, Poland, and in some Cities of Italy, as Venice and her territories, Florence and the jurisdiction thereof, the principalities of Parma, Mantua, Modena, Urbino, and their extending limits; and finally Rome, (besides her Ecclesiasticall papacy) wherein there are no lesse than twenty thousand [VI. 242.]of them: They are also innumerable over all the Turkish dominions, who so misregard and hate them, for the crucifying of Christ, that they use to say in detestation of any thing, I would I might dye a Jew; neither will they permit a Jew to turne Turke, unlesse he first be baptized: And yet live, where they wil, the most part of them are the welthiest people in the world, having subtile, and sublime spirits. Now for the severall Kings and Rulers of Judah and Israel, beginning at Moyses, the Judges of the Jewes were 16. of whom Samuel was the last, at which time, the people desired to have a King like unto other Nations.

The Jewish Kings.The Kings of the Jewes were three; Saul, David, and Salomon; And the Kings of Judah were twenty, Zedechias being last, in whose time Nabuchodanezzar destroyed Jerusalem. Of the Kings of Israel there were seaventeene, of whom Oseas was the last, in whose time the Israelites were carried captives into Assyria, by King Salmanassor.

Dukes of Jewry.The Dukes or Governours of Jewry were fifteene, of which Joannes Hircanius, was the last Governour of Judea, which discended from the stocke of David. During the government of which Captaines, after the Babylonian captivity, the Jewish Kingdome was plagued on both sides, by the Kings of Egypt and Syria: who slaughtered their people, ransacked their Cities, made havocke of their goods, and compelled them to eate forbidden flesh, and sacrifice to Idols.

To reforme which enormities Matathias and his five sonnes valiantly resisted, and overcame the impetuous fury of Antiochus Epiphanes and his Syrians: Whereupon the Jewes chose Judas surnamed Machabeus for their Captaine, one of the worlds nine Worthies; who though not of the line of David, was yet of the tribe of Judah.

[VI. 243.]The Machabean Princes of Jury were onely foure: Joannes Hircanus the last, who was slaine by the Parthianes. The Machabean Princes.Of the Machabean Kings of Judah were other foure, of whom Hircanus sonne to Alexander the tyrant was the last, who being disturbed in his raigne by Aristobulus his yonger brother, with his sonnes Alexander and Antiochus, he was firmely established in his throne by Pompey; & the other carried captives to Rome. But afterward Alexander and Antiochus escaping, the one by pollicy, the other by favour of Julius Cæsar, villanously abused Hircanus: The former was slaine by Scipio, and the latter for his villany was slaine by Marcus Antonius, and the Kingdome given to a stranger, Herod borne in Ascolon of Idumea, as I formerly recited, of which strange Kings there were foure.

Christian Kings of Jerusalem.The Christian Kings of Palestine, beginning at Godfrey of Bulloine were nine. Guy of Lysingham being the last King of Jerusalem, and was surprised by Saladine of Egypt, 1187.

And lastly, or at this present time, the Emperours of the line and race of Ottoman, are Lords and Kings over Jerusalem, and the crost, or rather now curst land of Canaan: In whose hands it is faster kept, then the seventeene Belgian Provinces, remaine totally subject to the Spanish power.

But to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainely understand the Monuments I saw within Jerusalem, and the circumjacent places of Judea; I thought best to prefixe the description thereof, by the severall dayes as I saw them, not much condemning, neither absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate, and recapitulate these places, as I was informed [VI. 244.]by the Padre Guardiano, Gaudentius, Saybantus, a Veronesen borne; whence he, and every one of them every third yeare are changed and recalled backe to Christendome, and other new Friers sent in their places: And especially the information of John Baptista, the Trenchman, who dwelt and had stayed twenty five yeares in Jerusalem, and from whom the Friers themselves have their informations: for a stranger that understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, which they usually speake, when they demonstrate these places unto us, hee shall The ignorance of Travellers.conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement blind-foldedly, and knowes not how to distinguish the circumstances, and qualities of the things delivered. As I have knowne some of these Francks, in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposition of every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared such a thing to have beene there, although perhaps the matter it selfe, be evanished and transported.

About two of the clock on Palme-sunday after dinner, for all of us eate, drunke, and lay in the Monastery, each of us paying a Piaster a day for our dyet, sixe shillings starling, besides all other costs and charges: The Guardian I say, departed from Jerusalem to Bethphage: accompanied with twelve Friers, and many other Orientall Christians, which were come thither to that Festivall time, but I by no meanes would go, neither would the six Germans, but reposing our selves on the top or platforme of the Cloyster, we stayed till their returne: And yet from this place, we saw their back-comming from Bethphage as they crossed the lower and South side of Olivet; devalling downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat to ascend Mount Sion, for the greater performance of their foolery.

[VI. 245.]A superstitious Ceremony.The rediculous Ceremony which that day they use, is thus: In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresayd Bethphage, there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano, whereupon hee mounted (being as it were, the greater Asse, riding upon the lesser) and came riding to Jerusalem, the people cutting downe Boughs of trees, and also dispoyling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the way as hee Rode along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the Sonne of David, blessed is hee that commeth in the name of the Lord: untill they came to the South gate of Syon, where the Guardian thought to have entred, Riding through Jerusalem to his monastery, with this shouting convoy of sixe thousand Orientall Christians, because their Patriarkes have not that liberty to do so, as this Italian Guardian: Notwithstanding, the clamour of the people incensed so the Turkish Garrison lying at this Gate, that they not onely abused the poore Christians in their ignorant devotion, but they pulled the Guardian also from the Asses backe, beating him most cruelly, and all the rest of the Friers and Francke Pilgrimes that were with him: Where at last entring the Convent, most of them came in groaning, and loaden with blacke and bloody blowes; whereat I, and the other Protestants, did laugh in our sleeves to behold their foolish Procession, so substantially rewarded. At night after Supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a Protestant, and also these other Germanes, made an Oration, saying: You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments, nor wil not adhere to our Masses, processions and Ceremonies [VI. 246.]which we follow of the Roman Church: I would therfore intreat you (your liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may do as you please) onely to abstaine from scandalling and mocking our Rites and ordinary Customes, which at this great feast we must performe: To which we condescended, and promised to give no occasion of offence, seeing our outward carriage in going along with them to see their customes, tended no way to hurt the inward disposition of our soules.

In the conclusion of his long Exhortation, hee disclosed this admonition, saying: All of you Travailers must in A flattering beggary.general be indued with these three worthy gifts, Faith, Patience, & Mony: Faith, to beleeve these things you shall see here at, and about Jerusalem: Patience, to indure the apparent injuries of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all tributes, and costs, which here (meaning in his owne Monastery) and about this City must be defrayed. His Sermon he concluded like a Grey Frier, as indeede hee was: for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith, and Patience, providing, that our purses could answere his expectation, as truly we found the condigne trial thereof afterward: making our Patience to startle, our Faith to over-top his lyes, and our monies to bee a slave to his greed; and wee left the last tributary spoyles of two extortionable flatterers, Avarice, and Ignorance; with the which our Reverend Guardian was fully invested.

Monday earely, we Pilgrimes went foorth to view the monuments within the Citty, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French Predicatore: the places of any note wee saw were these: first they shewed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who sayd: Touch me not, for I am not yet ascended to my Father, John 20. 15. and this place by them is supposed to be the Center or middle part of the World. Next, where Saint James the first Bishop of the Primitive Church was beheaded: then the House of Saint Thomas, but that [VI. 247.]is doubtful (say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authority: From thence they brought us to the place where Annas one of the High Priests dwelt, and also the Tree to the which our Saviour was bound, whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Caiphas; but that I wil not beleeve, for that Tree groweth yet, being an Olive Tree. They shewed us also the house where Saint Peter was imprisoned, when his fetters were shaken off his legges, and the Prison doores cast open, and hee relieved: And where Zebedeus the Father of James and John dwelt, which are nothing but a lumpe of Ruines.

Caiphas Lodging.Thence wee came to the decayed lodging of Caiphas, without the Citty, uppon the mount Syon, whereupon there is a Chappell builded, and at the entry of that little Domo, we saw the stone, on which the Cocke crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place is the stone that was rolled to the Sepulcher doore of our Saviour, being now made an Altar to the Abasines. These Abasines, are naturally borne blacke, and of them silly Religious men, who stay at Jerusalem, in two places, to wit, heere at Caiphas House, on mount Syon, and the other Convent on mount Moriah, where Abraham would have sacrificed Isaac: They weare on their heads flat round Caps of a blackish colour, and on their bodies long gownes of white Dimmety, or linnen cloath, representing Ephods: the condition of themselves being more devoute, than understanding the true grounds or their devotion, blind zeale and ignorance overswaying their best light of knowledge. They being a kinde of people, which came from Prester Jehans dominions.

And within that Chappel they shewed us a narrow pit, [VI. 248.]wherein (say they) Christ was incarcerat, the night before he was brought to the Judgement Hall. Upon the same side of Syon, we saw the place, where Christ did institute the Sacraments: and not far hence, a decayed House, where (say they) the Holy-Ghost discended upon the Apostles, and also the Sepultures of David, and his sonne Salomon: Over the which, there is a Moskie, wherein no Christian may enter, to see these monuments. For the Turkes doe great Reverence, to most of all the ancient Prophets of the old Testament.

From thence we returned, and entred in via dolorosa, the dolorous way, by which our Lord and Savior passed, when he went to be crucified, carrying the Crosse upon his Backe: And at the end of the same streete (say they) the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to helpe Christ, to beare his Crosse when hee fainted. Pilats judgement Hall.Pilats Judgment Hall, is altogether ruinated, having but onely betweene the two sides of the Lane, an olde Arch of stone, under the which I passed, standing ful in the high Way: Here they shewed us the place, where Christ first tooke up his Crosse, and on the top of that Arche, wee saw that place called Gabbatha, where Jesus stood, when Pilat sayd to the Jewes, Ecce homo.

A little below this, they brought us to the Church of Saint Anna, where (say they) the Virgin Mary was borne. And going downe another narrow Lane, they poynted in to a House, and sayd, heere Dives the rich Glutton dwelt, who would not give to Lazarus the Crummes of Bread that fel from his Table: this I suspend, amongst many other things, for all hold it to bee a Parable, and not a History: And although it were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, Jerusalem having beene so often transformed by alterations.

[VI. 249.]This I must needes say, with such leying wonders, these flattering Friers, bring Strangers into a wonderful admiration, and although I rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not beleeve all, onely publishing them as things indifferent, some whereof are frivolous, and others somewhat more credible: But as I sayd before, I will make no (or very small) distinction in the Relation.

From thence we came without the Easterne gate, (standing on a low Banke, called the daughter of Syon, that over-toppeth the valley of Jehosophat,) unto an immoveable stone, upon the which they sayd St. Stephen was stoned to death, the first Martyr of the Christian faith; and the faithfull fore-runner of many noble followers. As we returned to our owne Convent, they brought us to mount Moriah, and shewed us the place where Abrahams faith.Abraham offered up Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes or Æthiopians: to whom each of us payed ten Madins of Brasse, the common coine of Jerusalem, for our in going to that place. And the other monastery that these Abasines detaine, is on mount Sinay in the Desarts, where the body of S. Katherine lyeth buried, which is richly maintained, and strongly kept by the Æthiopian Emperor: There are 200. Religious Abasines in it, and 100. souldiers to guard them from the incursions of Arabs, who continually molest them, because Mount Sinay.mount Sinay standeth in midst of that desolate Arabian wildernesse, and far from any civill or inhabited place; being distant from Jerusalem about 70. English miles. Next they shewed us the place where Jesus sayd, Daughters of Jerusalem, mourne not for me, &c. And neere unto this, where the virgin Mary fell into an agony, when Jesus passed by carrying his Crosse: Also, not farre hence, we beheld the place, where (as they say) Jesus said to his mother, woman, behold thy Sonne, and to S. John behold thy mother.

[VI. 250.]Ascending more upward, they shewed us the house of Veronica Sancta, and said, that our Saviour going by her doore, all in a sweat to Mount Calvary, she brought him a napkin to wipe his face; which he received, and gave it to her againe: in which (say they) the print of his face remaineth to this day, and is to be seene at Rome. It is also sayd to be in a Towne in Spaine, and another of them at Palermo in Sicilia: wherefore I beleeve the one, as well as the rest.

The Temple of Solomon thrice builded & destroyed.As concerning the Temple of the most high, built by Salomon (the description of which edifice yee may read in the 3. of Kings) it was destroyed by Nabuchodanezzar, at the taking of Jerusalem, Anno Mundi, 4450. Secondly, it was rebuilded againe by the commandement of Cyrus King of Persia, after the Jewes returned from the Captivity of Babylon; but not answerable to the state and magnificence of the former: For besides the poverty & smalnesse of it, there wanted five things which were in the other: First, the Arke of the Covenant: Secondly, the pot of Manna: thirdly, the rod of Aaron: Fourthly, the two tables of the Law, written by the finger of God: And fifthly, the fire of the Sacrifice, which came downe from Heaven, which were the Symboles and badges of Gods favour and mercy showne to them and their fore-fathers in his covenant of Love.

This Temple afterward growing in decay, Herod the [VI. 251.]great, (that killed the young Infants for Christs sake, who suffered for him, before he suffered for them) built another much inferiour to the first, and superiour to the second. And although some Authors would have him but to repaire the second Temple, yet it is most certaine, he did even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory. For this Herod the Ascolonite, was an Edomit stranger, or Idumean, who having gotten the Kingdome contrary to the Law of Moses; and created King of Jewry by Octavius Augustus; and knowing these people to be offended therewithall, to procure their favour did Herod the Idumeans Temple.build to them a third Temple: This was it, in which our Saviour, and his Apostles did daily Preach; and was set on fire by Titus the tenth day of August, on which day likewise the first Temple, was burnt by Nabuchodanezzar. And lastly there is another great Temple builded in the Selim Solimans Temple.same place, by Sultan, Selim Soliman, reserved by Turkes, and highly regarded, for that respect they carry to Salomon; neare the which, or within whose courts no Christian may enter under the paine of loosing his head.

This present Temple hath two incircling Courts invironed with high wals, having two enteries: In the inner Court standeth the Temple, that is composed of five circling and large Rotundoes, rising high and incorporate from the ground with round tops: The outward fabrick whereof we cannot see, save on Mount Olivet, which is over against the Citie, and twice as high as Mount Sion.

These are all the monuments which in one day, I saw within Jerusalem; but as for Mount Calvary, and the Holy Grave, I saw them afterward, which in their owne place shall be orderly touched. As we were spending that [VI. 252.]day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared one hundred souldiers, sixty horse-men, and forty foot-men, to take with him the day following, for his conduction to Jordan, and the mountaine in the Wildernesse where Christ fasted; which is his usuall custome once every yeare betweene Palme-sunday and Easter, returning againe before Good-friday. These places cannot be viewed, save onely at that time; neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the souldiers, unlesse he give the value of seven Crownes or Piasters (as a propyne) unto the Lieutenant, being forty two shillings starling: and if the Traveller will not goe to that charge, he may stay there till their returne, which I would not wish him to doe, if possibly he may spare the money, for the sight of Sodome, and Jordans sake. That same night after supper, the Guardian demanded of us Travellers, if we would goe with him to see these memorable, & singular things, upon the former condition: To whom we answered, in a generall consent, we would, and so payed our moneyes.

A voyage to Jordan.Earely upon Tuesday morning all the Friers and Pilgrimes being mounted on Mules save onely pedestriall I, and two Mules loaden with our provision of victuals; we departed from the City, about our nine of the clocke in the forenoone, keeping our faces South-east, and leaving Bethphage and Bithania on our left hand, wee had pleasant travelling for seaven miles; but in the afternoone wee entred in a barren and desart Countrey till Sun-setting: where at last wee arrived at a standing Well, and there refreshing our selves and the beasts, wee reposed till two houres within night. After that the Captaine had cried Catethlanga, that is, march away: we set forward, being well guarded round about with our keepers, because we entred into a dangerous way, and a most desolate and fabulous soile.

[VI. 253.]In all this deformed Countrey, wee saw neyther house, nor Village, for it is altogether desartuous, and inhabited onely by wilde Beasts, and naked Arabians. Before wee came neere to Sodom and Gomorrah, by seaven miles: (for so wee behooved to passe by the East end of it, before wee could arrive at that place of Jordan which wee intended) we I say incountred with such deep sandy ground, that the Mulets were not able to carry our Company through: Whereupon they all dismounted, wrestling, and wading above the middle part of their bodies, and sometimes falling in over their heads, they were in great danger of perishing, although the robustnesse of my body carried mee through on my feete, relieving also divers times some of these Friers and Pilgrimes, that were almost choaked and over-whelmed with Sand, but not for lacke of Wine. Even in the middest of this turmoyling paine, (the night being darke) the unwelcomed Arabs, environed, A fearefull danger.and invaded us with a storme of Arrowes, which they sent from the tops of little hard hils, whereupon they stood, for knowing the advantage of the ground: they tooke opportunity to give the more feareful assaults: yet they prevailed nothing (although they wounded some of our Souldiers) such was the resolute Courage of our valourous Defendants. True it is, that in all my travailes I was never so sore fatigated, nor more fearefully indangered, as I was that night.

A little after midnight, these Savages leaving us, and wee leaving our troublesome way, we accoasted the Lake of Sodome, and marched along the marine shoare above nine miles before we came to Jordan. This Lake is called Lacus Asphaltites, it yeeldeth a kinde of slime, named Bitumen Asphaltum; the which bituminous savour no [VI. 254.]living thing can indure. And now Mare mortuum, a sea because it is salt, and mortuum or dead, for that no living thing breedes therein: and more properly for this cause called the dead Sea, because of it selfe it is unmoveable, such is the Leprosie and stability of the water. It is also called so, because if a Bird flye over it, shee presently falleth downe therein dead: And as Salomon reporteth of it, Wisdom. 10. 7. it smoaketh continually: from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours, which deforme the fields, lying about for certaine miles, as it were blasted, scorched, and made utterly barren: this smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of Jordan: For this River falling into it, and there ending his course, the two contrary natures cannot agree; the one being a filthy puddle, and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably Record.

The length of Sodoms Lake.This Lake is foure score miles in length, and according to its intervalling Circuite, sometimes two, three, foure, or five miles in breadth: yet the body thereof, bending directly South-west; keepeth a glassie course, till it salute the austiere conspicuosity of the sabulous and stony Desarts: beeing compassed with the Rockes of Arabia Petrea on the South: On the North, with the sandy hils of the Wildernesse of Judea: on the West, with the steepy mountaines of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with the plaine of Jericho. How commeth it to passe therefore, that the fresh running flood of Jordan, falling evermore into this bounded Sea, that the Lake it selfe, never diminisheth, nor increaseth, but alwayes standeth at one fulnesse: neyther hath it any issuing forth, nor reboundeth backewards on the plaine of Jericho, which is one of the greatest wonders in the World. Wherefore, as I have [VI. 255.]sayd, it must needes eyther exhale to the Clouds, or otherwise runne downe to Hell: for if it ranne under the Rockes, and so burst in the Desarts, it would soone bee knowne; but in all the bounds of Arabia Deserta, which betwixt this Lake and the Red Sea, extend to 300. miles; there is no such matter, as Brooke, or strand, much lesse a River, neyther hath it any intercourse with the Ocean, unlesse it runne through some secret passage of the earth under the Wildernesse, unto the Red sea. And that is doubtfull, although it may appeare probable; in regard of Nilus, that runneth a hundred miles under the ground in the exterior Æthiopia: and divers other Rivers also after the same manner, obscuring themselves under Rockes, mountaynes, and planures, for many miles: which particulars, by my owne experience, I could denote.

The doubtfulnes of Jordans ending.But as for this River, the question may arise, whether ran it during the time of these five Citties of the plaine, now overwhelmed with Water; or where was the issue thereof. To this I answere, was not the hand of the Almighty, that rained downe from the Heavens fire and Brimstone to consume them, able also, to drowne their situations and intervalling plaines with water: Yes and doubtlesse yes, and the course of the River keeping still its former condition: And for moderne examples, how many Citties, Mansions, and Stations, have beene sommerssed with water: nay innumerable, and so remayning to this day, place, beauty, and being, all defaced: As now in Scotland neere to Falkirk, rests the last and latest memory of such woefull accidents, and superabounding disgorgings.

It breedeth nor reserveth no kinde of fishes; and if by the swelling of Jordan, any fishes be carried to it, they immediatly dye. Although Josephus witnesseth, that in [VI. 256.]his time, there was an Apple grew uppon the Bankes thereof, like to the colour or gold, and within was rotten, and would consume to powder; yet I affirme now the contrary: For there is not such a thing (whatsoever hath beene in his dayes) as eyther Trees, or Bushes, grow neere to Sodome by three miles: such is the consumation of that pestiferous Gulfe.

Wrong informations made false.Divers Authors have reported, that nothing will sinke into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or Carkasses of Beasts: but by experience I approve the contrary: For it beareth nothing at all; yea, not the weight of a Feather, nor the pile of withered Grasse, but it will sinke therein, with the which my hands made sundry trials; and dare approove it to be of trueth, in spight of the leying world, and all doting varieties of auncient Relations.

The water it selfe, is of a blackish colour, and at sometimes in the yeare, there are terrible shapes, and showes of terrour in it, as I was informed at Jericho, by the Arabian inhabitants there, which is the neerest Towne that bordereth thereupon.

This contagious and pestilentious Lake of Sodome, resembleth much (as may be supposed) that infernall gulfe of Hell: but in my opinion, I hold it to be the Purgatory of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum, is neere, or in the second roome to Hell, which I thinke must needs be Sodome: for although it be not Hell it selfe, yet I am perswaded, it is a second Hell, having (as some report) no bottome. Wherefore I conclude thus, that since Papists will have a Purgatory, I absolutely affirme, it must be such a Purgatory, as the purging of Sodome and Gomorra, which was with fire and Brimstone, to their destruction.

[VI. 257.]About the breach of day on Wednesday morning, we past by the ruines of an old house; where (as they say) S. John the Baptist remained, when he baptized those that came from Jerusalem, and other Regions about, which is but the flight of an arrow from Jordan.

Approaching to the banke-side, we dismounted, and The River Jordan.uncloathed our selves, going in naked to the River, we washed us to refresh our bodies; our Souldiers lying a little off from us, as pledges of our lives, and their owne safegards, stayed as Bulwarks for our protection, & a connivall obligation for two repugnant defences: Time presenting the awfull opportunity of both occasions. In this place, as the Guardian said, was Christ baptized of S. John, when the Holy Ghost came downe in a bodily shape, like a Dove upon him, and there was a voyce from Heaven, saying: Thou art my beloved Sonne, in Thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparant like testimony, of a quadrangled stone, lying on the banke side; whereupon are ingraven letters, of Hebrew, Greeke, Latine, testifying the same thing: and may be also conjectured, in regard of the auncient Habitacle, of that precursor, which is not far from thence.

This river Jordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, of two fountaines, Jore, and Dan, which runne separated, till they come to the lake Maronah; & hence it maketh one body, keeping his course through the lake Genasereth, endeth in Sodome. The river Tibris at Rome, & Jordan are not much different in quantity and colour; and not unlike other in their courses: For Jordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tibris runneth through the new Sodome; A history of such evidence, as travell taught me by experience: For it is the Priests confluence, which breeds in the Italians insolence: If I erre, I will beg indulgence, of the Popes aureat magnificence.

[VI. 258.]The rivers themselves are both of a muddy colour, and their quantity not far different from other, which Jordan for greatnesse retaineth, and the length of their courses are much semblable to other. The water of Jordan hath beene transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity it hath; which will reserve unspoiled, both moneths and yeares, and the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drinke it, is an excellent remedy for the fever quartan or quotidian, being neare in vertue to the Wine of Libanon.

Considering the auncient reputation of this famous river, and the rare sight of such an unfrequented place, A Turpentine rod brought from Jordan and given to King James.I climbed up to the top of a Turpentine tree, which grew within the limited flood, a little above where I left my company even naked, as I came from swimming, and cut downe a faire hunting rod of the heavy and sad Turpentine tree, being three yards long, wondrous straight, full of small knots, and of a yellowish colour; which afterward, with great paines, I brought to England, and did present it (as the rarest gemme of a Pilgrimes treasure) to his Majesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof an unexpected accident fell out: For I being sequestrat from the sight of the company, upon this solitary tree, with broad obscuring leaves, the Friers and Souldiers removed; keeping their course towards Jericho: but within two furlongs from Jordan, they were beset with the former Nocturnall enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict: For I hearing the Harquebuse go off, was straight in admiration, and looking downe to the place where I left my associates, they were gone; so bending my eyes a little further in the Plaine, I saw them at a martiall combate: which sight gave me suddenly, the threatning of despaire: not knowing whether to stay intrenched, [VI. 259.]within the circundating leaves, to approve the events of my auspicuous fortunes: Or in prosecuting a reliefe, to be participant of their doubtfull deliverance. In the end pondering, I could hardly, or never escape their hands, either there, or by the way going up to Jerusalem, leapt downe from the tree, leaving my Turkish cloathes lying upon the ground, tooke onely in my hand the rod & Shasse which I wore on my head; and ranne starke naked above a quarter of a mile amongst thistles, and sharpe pointed grasse, which pittifully be pricked the soles of my feete, but the feare of death for the present, expel’d the griefe of that unlooked for paine. Approaching on the safe side of my company, one of our Souldiers broke forth on horsebacke, being determined to kill mee for my staying behinde: Yea, and three times stroke at me with his halfe-pike; but his horse being at his speed, I prevented his cruelty, first by falling downe, next by running in amongst the thickest of the Pilgrimes, recovering the Guardians face, which when the Guardian espied, and saw my naked body, hee presently pulled off his gray gowne, and threw it to me, whereby I might hide the secrets of nature: By which meanes, (in the space of an The Pilgrimes three severall habits in halfe a houre.houre) I was cloathed three manner of wayes: First, like a Turke: Secondly, like a wild Arabian: And thirdly, like a grey Frier, which was a barbarous, a savage, and a religious habit.

The Captaine at last entering in parley with the Arabs, by some contributing promises did mitigate their fury, for their compounded acknowledgement was to be sent them from Jerusalem: Whereupon, wee marching toward Jericho, reposed our selves under a cooling shade, and dined there on the Wine and provision carryed with us.

[VI. 260.]After Dinner wee arose, and went to the House of Zacheus: (this was hee who sate uppon a Tree to see our Saviour as he passed by,) the Wals whereof stand to this day, the tecture being onely demolished. This new Jericho is now a poore Village onely of nine dwelling houses, inhabited by a kinde of Arabs (which are in subjection under the Governour of Jerusalem,) but I saw many ruinous lumpes of the Wals, and demolishings of the old Towne, which is a little from this distant, about a short quarter of a mile. Two sorts of rare fruit.Here I saw two most dainty kinde of fruites, the one was a little lesser then an Apple, but more round: whose colour was like gold without, and within it was White as Snow, and sweete like Suger. I would gladly have eaten of them; but the Friers forbade me, saying; they were the onely pest of Death unto a stranger. The other Apple was like to a greene Lemmon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish colour, like to a Mellone; being both delicate and wholesome, of which wee did eate to satisfie the naturall appetite, and so did all our Souldiers eate of them excessively: their Trees growing high and greene by a Brooke side of delicate Water that runneth from the fountaine of Elizeus. From Jericho we set forward, in the way of the Wildernesse; our determination being such, as to view the mountaine whereon Christ fasted forty dayes: Where arrived, being late, we durst not go up til morning. Elizeus Fountaine.Wherefore we pitched that night by the fountayne of Elizeus; the Water of which, was of old, naturally bitter, but by the prayers of that divine Prophet, was restored to a sweet tast: It is good in digestion, and harmelesse for health: and it is the lightest water the earth yeelds: having on the morrow filled a Boares skin of it, to carry with me to the mountaine; I found it so light, that I [VI. 261.]had no weight nor paine in the bearing of it on my shoulders: notwithstanding, the way of it selfe was fastidious. This mountain is called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height, by the computation of my painefull experience, above sixe miles, and groweth from the bottome still smaller and smaller, till that the top is covered with a little Chappell, not unlike to the proportion of a Pyramede.

There is no way to ascend upon this Hill, save one, which hath beene hewen out of the Rocke, by the industry of men, experimented in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Queene Helen) going up by the Degrees of forty five turnes. In all our Company there were onely one Frier, foure Germanes, and I, that durst attempt to climbe the mountaine.

Thursday earely at the breach of day, we sixe made us for the mountaine, leaving our Souldiers to guard the passage below, least some stragling Arabs should have stolne after us for our Destruction. Where after diverse turnings, traversings, and narrow foot passages having come with great difficulty to the top, we entred first into a umbragious Cave, joyning to, and under the Chappell, Where Christ fasted forty dayes.where the Frier told us, that in this place Christ did fast forty dayes: and here it was, where he rebuked Sathan. The Chappel which covereth the top of this high and steepy Rocke is covered, and also beautified, with an old Altar: betweene the outward sides whereof, and the craggy face of this mountaine, two men may only go side to side: Here we dined and refresht our selves with water that I carried on my backe hither: From which place we saw the most part of all the Holy Land, except the North parts of Judea, Palestine, and Phenicia, and a great way in the two Arabiaes, Petrea, and Deserta, and all the length of Jordan, even from Sodome to Maronah.

[VI. 262.]At last in our Returne and fearefull discending, there would none of us goe downe formost: For although the Frier led us freely upwards, yet first downeward for his life hee durst not goe: and that because at the narrow end of every turning, there was aye betweene the upper and the lower passage, about my height, and some where twice my height, of the flat face of the Rocke, whereon there was nothing but dimples and holes to receive our feete, which in discending was perillous. Dreadfull danger in descending the Quarantatam.Now the greatest danger, at every turne, was in the downe going of the formost, who was to receive, them all, one by one, and foote their feet in the shallow dimples: of which if any of them had missed, his sliding downe had miscarried them both over the Rocke.

Now for the noble Germanes sake, two of whom were great Barens, Signior Strowse, and Signior Crushen, and borne Vassals to the Marquesse of Hanspauch, I resolved to imbrace the danger: Where downe I went, receiving every one of them, at every turne, first leading their feete by my hands, and then by inveloping them with mine armes: Well, having past halfe way downewards, wee came to the most scurrile and timorous Discent of the whole passage, where with much difficulty, I set safe the foure Germanes in our narrow Rode hewen out of the craggy Hill; and then was to receive the Frier: Whence hee comming downe from above, with his Belly and face to the Rocke, holding his hands grumbling above, the fellow fell on trembling; and as I was placing his feete in the holes, distempred feare brought him downe upon me with a rushling hurle: Whereuppon straight I mainly closed with my left arme his body fast to the Rocke, keeping strongly my Right shoulder to the same [VI. 263.]place: For I could not have saved my selfe, and letting him fall, but hee would have caught mee headlong with him, over the Rocke: And yet the Germanes cryed still to me, Lascia ti quel furfanto cascar alla fondo con il Diavolo, e salva caro fratello la vita vostra, viz. Let that Villaine fall to the ground with the Divell, and save, O deare brother, your owne life: But I neyther would nor durst: at last his feare, by my incouragement having left him, I suffered him to slide softly downe betweene my arme and the Rocke, to the solid path: Where by and by, hee fell downe uppon his knees, and gave mee a thousand Blessings, vowing for this, he would doe me a great good deede before I left Jerusalem.

At last towards the afternoone, wee safely arrived at the foote of the Mountayne, and having saluted the Guardian, and all the Rest, who then were ready to take journey, the Frier told his Reverence how I had saved his life: Whereupon the Guardian, and the other Friers, did imbrace me kindly in their Armes, giving me many earnest and loving thankes.

And now the Souldiers and wee being advanced in our Way, as wee returned to Jerusalem, wee marched by an S. Jeromes Abbey.olde Ruinous Abbey, where (say they) Saint Jerome dwelt, and was fed there by wilde Lyons: Having travailed sore and hard that afternoone, wee arrived at Jerusalem an houre within night, for the Gate was kept open a purpose for us and our Guard: and entring our Monastery, wee supped, and rested our selves till midnight; having marched that halfe Day, more as 34. miles. A little before midnight, the Guardian and the Friers, were making themselves ready to goe with us to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, called Sancto Salvatore; where wee were to stay Good-friday and Satturday, and Easter-Sunday [VI. 264.]till mid-night: They tooke their Cooke with them also to dresse our Dyet, carrying Wine, Bread, Fishes, and Fruites hither in abundance. Meane while, a Jew, the Trench-man of the Turkies Sanzacke, came to the Monastery, and received from every one of us Pilgrimes, first two Chickens of Gold, for our severall heads, and entrey at Jerusalem: and then nine Chickens a peece for our in going to the Holy Grave; and a Chicken of golde a man, to himselfe the Jew, as beeing due to his place.

Our tributs for the Holy Grave.Thus was there twelve Chickens from each of us dispatched for the Turke: And last one, and all of us, behoved to give to the Guardian two Chickens also for the Waxe Candles and fooleries hee was to spend, in their idle and superstitious Ceremonies, these three aforesayd nights, which amounted in all to every one of us, to foureteene Chickens of gold, sixe pounds sixe shillings starling. So that in the whole from the sixe Germanes, foure French men, and nine Commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria, Venetians, and Ragusans, and from my selfe, the summe arose for this nights labour to a hundred and twenty sixe pounds starling.

This done, and at full mid-night wee came to the Church where wee found twelve Venerable like Turkes, ready to receive us, sitting in the Porch without the Doore; who foorthwith opened at randone the two great Brazen halfes of the Doore, and received us very respectively: We being within the doore made fast, and the Turkes returned to the Castle, the first place of any note we saw, was the place of Unction, which is a foure squared stone; inclosed about with an yron Reuele, on which (say they) the dead body of our Saviour lay, and was imbalmed; after hee was taken from the Crosse, whiles [VI. 265.]Joseph of Arimathea, was preparing that new Sepulcher for him wherein never man lay: from thence we came to the holy Grave. Leaving Mount Calvary on our right hand toward the East end of the Church; for they are both contained within this glorious edifice.

The Holy Grave.The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chappell, standing within a round Quiere, in the west ende of the Church: It hath two low and narrow entries: As we entred the first doore, three after three, and our shoes cast off, for these two roomes are wondrous little, the Guardiano fell downe, ingenochiato, and kissed a stone, whereupon (he sayd) the Angell stood, when Mary Magdalen came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen, on the third day as he promised: And within the entry of the second doore, we saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating our selves in great humility, every man according to his Religion, offered up his prayers to God.

The Sepulchre it selfe, is eight foote and a halfe in length, and advanced about three foote in height from the ground, and three foote five inches broad, being covered with a faire Marble stone of white colour.

In this Chappell, and about it, I meane without the utter sides of it, and the inward incirclings of the compassing Quiere, there are alwayes burning above fifty Lampes of oyle, maintained by Christian Princes, who stand most of them within incircling bandes of pure Gold, which is exceeding sumptuous, having the names of those, who sent or gave them, ingraven upon the upper edges of the round circles: each of them having three degrees, and each degree depending upon another, with supporters of pure Gold, rich and glorious. The fairest whereof was sent thither by King John of England, whereon I saw his [VI. 266.]Name, his Title, and crowne curiously indented, I demanded of the Guardiano if any part of the Tombe was here yet extant, who replied, there was; but because (said he) Christians resorting thither, being devoutly moved with affection to the place, carried away a good part thereof, which caused S. Helen inclose it under this stone; whereby some relicts of it should alwaies remaine. I make no doubt but that same place is Golgotha, where the holy Grave was, as may appeare by the distance, betweene Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to forty of my pases: The glorious Chappell of the Holy Grave.This Chappell is outwardly decored, with 15. couple of Marble Pillars, and of 22. foote high; and above the upper coverture of the same Chappell, there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar wood, covered with Lead, and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the same tree. The Chappell it selfe standeth in a demicircle or halfe Moone, having the little doore or entry looking East: to the great body of the Church, and to Mount Calvary, being opposite to many other venerable monuments of memorable majesties.

The forme of the Quiere wherein it standeth, is like unto that auncient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deale higher and larger, having two gorgeous Galleries; one above another, and adorned with magnificent Columnes being open at the top, with a large round; which yeeldeth to the heavens the prospect of that most sacred place.

In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we remained there: whence we had the full prospect of all the spacious Church, and all the Orientall people were there at this great feast of Easter day, being about 6000. persons: from this curious carved Chappell [VI. 267.]we returned through the Church to Mount Calvary; To which we ascended by twenty one steps, eighteene of them were of Marble, and three of Cedar-wood: where, The beauty of Mount Calvary.when we came I saw a most glorious & magnifick roome, whose covert was supported all about with rich columnes of the Porphyre stone, and the oversilings loaden with Mosaick worke, & overgilded with gold, the floore being curiously indented with intermingled Alabaster and black shining Parangone: On my left hand I saw a platformd rocke, all covered with thicke and ingraven boords of silver; and in it a hole of a cubits deepe, in which (say they) the Crosse stood whereon our Saviour was crucified: And on every side thereof a hole for the good & bad theeves, were then put to death with him. Discending from Mount Calvarie, we came to the Tombe of Godfrey du Bulloine, who was the first proclaimed Christian King of Jerusalem, and refused to be crowned there, saying; It was not decent, the Servants head should be crowned with gold, where the Maisters head had beene crowned with thornes; having this Inscription ingraven on the one side:

Two famous Sepulchers.Hic jacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion, quitotam hanc terram acquisivit cultui divino, cujus anima requiescat in pace.

And over against it, is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother, which hath these Verses in golden Letters curiously indented.