Patriam meam transire non possum, omnium una est, extra hanc nemo projici potest. Non patria mihi interdicitur sed locus, in quamcunque terram venio, in meam venio, nulla exilium est sed altera patria est. Patria est ubicunque bene est. Si enim sapiens est Peregrinatur, si stultus exulat. Senec. de re, for.

True it is, that these who make Distinction clearely, and the certayne knowledge of things, divide all Sciences in Speculative and Practicke. And agayne, Speculative in Physicke, or Phylosophy naturall, in Mathematickes and Metaphysicke; placing Medicine under the first: Arithmeticke, Musicke, Geometry, and Astrology under the second: Uniting thirdly, Theology, to the which they give also to be adjoyned the right Canon.

[VIII. 341.]As for the science Practique, it doth first imbrace the Morall that some divide in three, to wit, Ethique, that doth forme the manners of one man, Secondly in Ecoenomick, that doth dispose the actions domesticke: The third in Politicque, that comprehend the actions Civill; concerning the government of Common-wealths, which containeth under it the whole science of right civilitie. And with Practique, is also placed Dialectique, the Art of memory, the Grammar, the Rhetorique, to which also may be joyned the Art Poetique, and of Histories. But for their particular divisions I am not prolixious, as inutile to my designe in hand; divers dedicate themselves to the knowledge of these sciences, not knowing that they forget the most necessary, to wit, the science of the world.

The necessary use and honour of Travels.This is it above all things that preferreth men to honors, and the charges that make great houses and Reipublicks to flourish; and render the actions and words of them who possesse it, agreeable both to great and small. This science is onely acquisted by conversation, and haunting the company of the most experimented: by divers discourses, reports, by writs, or by a lively voyce, in communicating with strangers; and in the judicious consideration of the fashion of the living one with another. And above all, and principally by Travellers, and Voyagers in divers Regions, and remote places, whose experience confirmeth the true Science thereof; and can best draw the anatomy of humane condition. For which, and other respects, it holdeth true that the heart of man is insatiable being set upon whatsoever object, his predominant affection listeth; neither may reason find place in the violent rapt of such passions, for as judgement is seldome compatible [VIII. 342.]with youth, but reserved to old age; so to a unconstant disposition, every accident is a constellation, by which best thoughts are diversified, & driven from the center of deepest resolution: whiles contrariwise the sound set man, though by opportunity altereth his pace, yet still keepeth his way, serveth time for advantage, not for feare; but as the Sun setteth to rise againe, so he changeth his course, to continue his purpose. Wherein touching my particular, whether discontent or curiosity drove me to this second perambulation, it is best reserved The Authors Apology.to my owne knowledge: As for the opinion of others, I little care either for their sweetest temper, or their sowrest censure; for they that hunt after other mens fancies, goe rather to the market to sell than to buy, and love better to paint the bare fashion and out-sides of themselves, then to rectify or repaire their owne defects and errours; wherewith I leave them. Then it is well, if it please me, it is enough; my paines are mine owne, and not others; and therefore best worthy to judge of my owne labours, being best knowne to my selfe who dearest bought them: And so to make short this preamble, or conducing complement I come to the matter it selfe.

Now as I began my first voyage from Paris, so from London must I beginne this my second peregrination: whence leaving the Court, the Countrey and Dover, I courted Caleis, and so to Graveling, Dunkirke, and fatall Ostend, whose devasted sight gave my Muse this subject.

To flee hence in a word, I measured all the Netherlands with my feete in two moneths space; the description whereof is so amply set downe by moderne Authors, that it requireth no more: onely this, for policies, industries, strong Townes, and fortifications, it is the mirrour of vertue, and the garden of Mars; yea, and the light of all Europe, that he who hath exactly trade it, may say Weisle taken by Spineola.he hath seene the mappe of the whole Universe: And now ascending to Cleve, I came just to Grave Maurice Campe at Rhiese, as Spineola had taken Weisle; betweene which Armies for five weekes I had free intercourse, being kindly respected by both the Generalls: for Spineola set me at his owne table, and I lay in his second Tent nine nights; the Duke of Newenberg, and Don Pietro di Toledo being there both for the time: So with the Prince of Orange, with whom I discoursed divers times, was the Marques of Brandeburg, certaine Nobles, and forraine Ambassadours. All which time, O how it grieved me [VIII. 345.]to see the tyranny of the Spaniards dayly executed upon the distressed Protestants of Weisle, over whom they domineered like Divells: for these afflicted Cittizens, being heavily oppressed, by their unsupportable usage, were beleagured with their friends, when they were held captive by their enemies; and obeying necessity, stayed their bodies within the walles, though their mindes were without, and intirely with the assailants.

Bidding adew to these Armies, and accompanied with a young Gentleman David Bruce, the L. of Clekmanan his Sonne, whom I conducted to Italy: scarcely had we out-stripd Rhyneberg (where Collonell Edmond was slaine) a Dutch mile, till we were both robbed of our cloaks and pocket-moneys, with five souldiers French and Vallones; and that within a Village, women and children beholding us, but no man to relieve us, they being with Carts serving Spineolaes Campe.

The fabulous miracles of Culloine.Whence the next day approaching Culloine, and bills of change answered, wee visited the falsly supposed Tombes of the three Kings that came to Bethleem, who as the Romanists say, lye interred there. O filthy and base absurdnesse for their holy Mother Church to confirme hellish and erronious leyes; for these Kings came from the East, and from Chaldea, and not from the North: Or if they wil have them to die there and so buried, surely this is even such another damnable errour, surpassing tradition, as their wandring Jew, the Shoomaker of Jerusalem is, of whom in Rome, they have wrot ten thousand fables and fopperies: from this we visited the 11000. Virgins heads, Martyres, indeed we saw the Church-walles all indented about with bare sculles, but whose heads they were, the Lord knoweth; from thence a Gentleman brought us to a Chappell, within a Vineyard, [VIII. 346.]called the Chappell of miracles; the originall whereof was thus. Upon a festivall day, being Vintage time, there came a Peasant to the Towne, and passing by the Vines (as there is a number within the wals) did eate his belly full of the grapes; and thereafter hearing a Masse, was confessed, and received the Sacrament: And returning the same way he came, and just where he had eaten the Grapes, A forged and false miracle.hee fell a vomiting, and casting up with what hee had eaten the Holy Sacrament, it straight turned in the likenesse of a new borne Babe, being bright and glorious. Well, the amazed fellow, run backe and told his Confessour, what was done, and his offence who had eaten grapes before the Reception of the Eucharist. The Confessour told the Bishop, where he, and other Prelates comming to the place, and beholding as it were an Angell, grew astonished.

In end they wrapped up their little dead god, in a Cambricke vayle, and there buried it; building this Chappel above the place: where ever since there is a world of leying miracles done: Loe these are the novelties of Culloine.

Thence ascending the Rhyne, and coasting Heidleberg, I saluted the Princesse Palatine, with certayne rare Relickes of the Holy Land. And leaving Mounsieur Bruce there till my returne, I went for Noorenberg to discover the sixe Germanes death, whom I had buried in the Desarts, and Grand-Cayre of Ægypt, for the two Barons were subject to the Marquesse of Hanspauch: Where having met with some of their Brethren, Sisters, and Kinsmen, and delated to them their deathes, I was presently carryed to their Prince the Marquesse, to whom I related the whole Circumstances. Whereupon a brother of the one Baron, and a sister of the other, were instantly invested [VIII. 347.]in their Lands; and I likewise, by them all great regarded and rewarded. And after ten dayes feasting, reviewing Heidleberg, mine associate and I set forward for Helvetia, or Switzerland.

This Countrey is divided in thirteene Cantons, sixe whereof are Protestants, and sixe Papists; the odde Canton being likewise halfe and halfe. The most puissant whereof is Bierne, whose Territory lying along the lake reacheth within a League of Geneve. The people, and their service to most Christian Princes, are well knowne, being Manly, Martiall and trusty faithfull.

Here in the Canton of Bierne neere to Urbs, wee went and saw a young Woman, who then had neyther eate, A woman fasting fourteene yeares.nor drunke, nor yet excremented for thirteene yeares, being truely qualified by her Parents, Friends, Physitians, and other Visitors. She was alwayes Bed-fast, and so extenuated, that her Anatomised body carryed nought but Sinew, skin, and bones, yet was she alwayes mindefull of God. And the yeare after this time, her body returned agayne to the naturall vigour, in appetite and all things: and married a husband, bearing two children, dyed in the fifth yeare thereafter.

The day following, we entred Geneve, where sighting the Towne, the chiefe Burgo-masters, the seven Ministers, and the foure Captaines were all familiarly acquainted with me, with whom in diverse places, I daily feasted and discoursed. The Ministers one night propining me with a Bible, newly Translated in the Italian tongue, by one of them selves borne in Milane, told me there was a Masse-Priest sixe Leagues off, a Curate, of a Village in Madame du longeviles Countrey, who had gotten in his owne Parish, three Widdowes, and their three severall Daughters with childe, and all about one time: and for [VIII. 348.]this his Luxurious Cullions was brought to Dijon to be Executed: Desiring me to go see the manner, the next day (leaving Master Bruce with them) I went hither, and upon the sequell day, I saw him hanged upon a new Gallowes, as high as a stripad: The three mothers and their three Daughters were set before him, being Gravidato, whose sorrowfull hearts, and eye-gushing teares for their sinne and shame, were lamentable to behold: the incestuous Bugerono, begging still mercy and pardon for dividing their legges, and opening their wretched Wombes. Lo there is the chastity of the Romish Priests, who forsooth may not marry, and yet may mis carry themselves in all abhominations, especially in Sodomy, which is their continuall pleasure and practise. Returning to Geneve, and acquainting the Magistrates with his Confession, for they are great Intelligencers, I wrot this literal Distich:

The Lake of Geneva, and the River Rhone.The Lake of Geneve is sixteene Leagues in length, and two broad, at the South-west end whereof standeth the Towne, through whose middle runneth the River of Rhone, whose Head and body beginneth from the Lake among the very houses. The nature of which River is not unlike to Nylus, for when all other Rivers decrease (being in Summer) this increaseth. Two reasons proceeding from the excessive Snow that lye upon the Sangalian and Grisonean Alpes, which cannot melt, till about our longest day, that the force and face of the Sunne dissolve it. And so ingorging the Lake, it giveth Rhone such a body, that it is the swiftest River in Europe. The Towne on both sides the flood, is strongly fortified with rampierd walles, and counter-banding Bulwarkes; the [VIII. 349.]Ditch without and about being dry, is mainly pallasaded with wooden stakes, for preventing of suddain Scallets. Many assaults have this handfull of people suffered by Land and Water from the Savoyean Duke; the recitall whereof would plunge me in prolixity; and therefore committing that Light shining Syon, and her Religious Israelites, to the tuition of the Almighty, I step over the Alpes to Torine.

The first beginning of the Duke of Savoy.Here is the residence of the Dukes of Savoy, whose beginning sprung first from the house of Saxon: For Berold or Berauld, being a neere Cousen to the Emperour Otton the third, and brother to the Saxon Duke; the Emperour gratified him with these Lands of Savoy, and parts of Piemont; where he and his Successors continued foure hundred yeares under the title of Earles: untill the Emperour Sigismond, at the Counsell of Constance, did Create Amee, the eight Earle of his name Duke. And so beginning with him to this present Duke now living, named Charles Emanuel, there have been only eight Dukes, and some of them of short lives. And yet of all the Christian Dukes, the most Princely Court is kept heere, for Gallants, Gentry, and Knights.

At the same time, of my being there, this present Duke had wars with his owne brother in Law Philip the third, about the Marquesade of Montferrat, and Dutchy of Mantua, the issue whereof, but retorted to the Duke a redoubling disadvantage; though now it be gone from the Gonsagaes to the French Duke of Naviers. This Country of Piemont is a marvailous fruitfull and playne Countrey, and wonderfull populous, like to the River sides of Arno round about Florence: Insomuch that a Venetian damaunding a Piemont Cavalier, what Piemont was? Replyed, it was a Towne of three hundred miles [VIII. 350.]in circuite, meaning of the Habitations and populosity of the Soyle.

The rest of the surnames of the Italian Dukes are these, viz. that of Parma is Fernese, signifying Partridges; that of Modena is Astie, that of Florence de Medicis; that of Urbine, Francesco Maria, and the last Duke of Mantua, Gonsaga; the Dutchy of Ferrara, being dissolved, is converted to the Popes patrimony.

Leaving Piemont, and coasting the sassinous shoare of Genoaes revieroe, I ported Ligorne, the great Dukes Sea-haven; where I left Mr. Bruce with a Galley Captaine a voluntary Souldier; and inclining alone to Florence by the A comfortable crosse.way at Pestoia, I found a comfortable crosse; for I sighting the market place after supper, and carrying a French Ponyard in my pocket, the head of it was espied by a Badgello, Captaine of the Sergeants, who straight gripped me, bore me to prison, and clapd me in a Dungeon robbing me of all my moneyes and Poneyard; and posting that night to Florence on the morrow shew the Justice there a Stilleto of his owne: upon which I was condemned to row in the Gallies for a yeare, else to pay a hundred Duckats: He stayed there three dayes, in this time was I discovered to the governour of Pistoia, a noble Gentleman, and being brought before him, and acquainting him with the undeserved cruelty of the Badgello: nor that I never wore a Stilleto, but under pretext of that had robbed mee of three-score and twelve pieces of gold: Whereupon the Governour perceiving the knavery of the Villaine, and that he had not acquainted him with my apprehending, to whose place it belonged, he grew immatulent and forthwith sent post to his Highnesse, shewing him the trueth of the businesse: Whereupon the Badgello was sent backe [VIII. 351.]to the Governour with whom I was domestickly reserved; and being accused before my face of his roguery, could not deny it: well, my gold and my Poneyard is restored againe, the Badgello banished the territorie of Pistoia for ever, with his Wife and Children, and I received in compensation of my abuses, from his Highnesse Chamber or Treasury there, fifty Florentine Crownes of gold, being modified by the Duke him selfe; whereat I extolled the knave, that wrought his own wracke in seeking my overthrow, and brought me such a noble reward.

Thanking God for this joyfull crosse and approaching Florence, I found one John Browne there, whose company I imbraced to Sicilia: Whence having privatly past Rome, and publickly Naples, we footed along the marine by Cousenza in Calabria.Salerno, and courting Cousenza, the capitall seate of Calabria where a Vicegerent remaineth, we reposed there certaine dayes.

The Towne is of no quantity nor quality, in regard of the obscurenesse and solitarinesse of the Countrey, the better sort of their Gentry living at Naples: Having left the lower, and entred the higher Calabria, we arrived at the Bourge of Allavria; and the next morning traversing close and covert mountaines, twelve miles along, in the midst of our passage we were beset with foure Bandits and foure Gunnes: To whom holding up my hand, and imploring for our lives, shewing them mine adventures and former travells, they unbend their fire-locks, and reading my patent of Jerusalem, uncovered their heads, and did me homage, notwithstanding they were absolute murderers: Our lives and liberty is granted, and for a greater assurance, they tooke us both in to a great thicket of wood, where their timberd Cabine stood, and there made merry with us in good Wine and the best cheare [VIII. 352.]their sequestrate cottage could afford.

And now because there were forty more Bandits their companions among these mountaines, one of themselves for our safeguard, came along with us, and as neare Castellucia as he durst; making me sweare that I should not shew the Baron of that place of their privat residence, neither that I met with them at all; which I freely did, and so gave him many hearty and deserved thanks.

The liberty of Bandits in Calabria.These Bandits or men-slayers, will come into any free Towne in the night when they please, and recovering either a Church or Hospitall, they stay there as they list, conducing with their friends, their wives, and their affaires; being as safe in these places as though they had not committed any criminall fact, neither may the power of Justice reach to them, so long as they keepe themselves within doores.

This is an auncient liberty which Calabria hath ever retained, and so is through the most part of all the Spanish Dominions: Having arrived at Castellucia, the Baron thereof made much of me, and wondred that I had safely past the mountaines, for said he when I go for Naples, I am forced to go by sea, notwithstanding I have forty in traine.

The next day in passing Montecilione, the fairest and fruitfullest bounded Bourg in all Calabria superior; I saw a distectured house; which the people told me had beene the Schoole, where Dionisius the third and last Tyrant of Sicilia (after his flight from the Kingdome and Crowne) taught Children privatly nine yeares, ere hee was knowne to be a King, but a poore Schoolemaster.

This higher Calabria though mountainous, aboundeth in delicious Wines, fine pastorage, and exceeding good Silke: The Peasants alwayes commonly here are addicted [VIII. 353.]to eate Onions, whence rose this Proverbe, I Calabrese magniano di Cepoli, the Calabrians feed upon Onions. Their women weare uncomely habits, being hooded from their browes to their backes behind, with sixe or seven sundry colours of cloth or stuffe; whose upper gownes come no further downe than their middle thighes: And their breaches and stockings being all one, and their legges halfe booted, they looke like the ghostly Armenian Gargosons.

I remember in passing this higher Countrey, I found divers Cassales or Terraes, (small Villages) of certaine Greeke Albaneses fled to Calabria.Greekes called Albaneses, whose predecessors had fled from Albania, when the Turke seased upon Epyre, and this their Province; and was priviledged here to stay by the Spaniard Philip the first: And though exiled from their naturall Patrimonies, (Omne solum forti patria est) yet are they exceeding kind to strangers, measuring largely their owne infranchized fortune, with the voluntary exposement of many unnecessary Viadants: Declining thence to the marine Bourge of Molino, being by land which we footed distant from Naples 400. miles; we crossed the narrow Faro, or Sycilian Euripus, to Messina being two miles broad. Where, when landed, and meeting with a young Scots Edenburgensen William Wylie, come from Palermo, and bound for Venice, I fastned John Browne with him to accompany his returne; and on the following day imbarked them both backe for Calabria.

And now having followed the Italian saying Si meglior a star solo come mala accompaniato; It is better for a man to be alone, then in ill company; I traversed the Kingdome to Trapundie seeking transportation for Affricke, but could get none: And returning thence overthwart the Iland, I [VIII. 354.]call to memory being lodged in the Bourge of Saramutza, belonging to a young Baron, and being bound the way of Castello Francko eight miles distant and appertaining to another young Noble youth, I rose and marched by the breach of day; where it was my lucke halfe way from Two young Barons killed at combat.either Towne, to finde both these beardlesse Barons, lying dead, and new killed in the fields, and their horses standing tyed to a bush beside them; whereat being greatly moved, I approached them, and perceiving the bodies to be richly cled with silken Stuffes facily conjectured what they might be: My host having told me the former night, that these two Barones were at great discord, about the love of a young Noble woman; and so it was, for they had fought the combat for her sake, and for their owne pride lay slaine here. For as fire is to Gun powder, so is ambition to the heart of man, which if it be but touched with selfe-love, mounteth aloft, and never bendeth downeward, till it be turned into ashes.

And here it proved for that Ladies sake, that troppo amore turnd to Presto dolore: Upon which sight, to speake the trueth, I searched both their pockets, and found their two silken purses full loaden with Spanish Pistolls, whereat my heart sprung for joy, and taking five rings off their foure hands, I hid them and the two purses in the ground, halfe a mile beyond this place: And returning againe, leapt to one of their horses, and came galloping backe to Saramutza; where calling up my host, I told him the accident; who when he saw the horse gave a shout for sorrow, and running to the Castle told the Lady the Barons Mother: where in a moment, shee, her children, and the whole Towne runne all with me to the place, some cled, some naked, some on foote, and some on horse: where, [VIII. 355.]when come grievous was it to behold their woefull and sad lamentations. I thus seeing them all madde and distracted of their wits with sorrow, left them without good-night: And comming to my Treasure, made speedy way to Castello Franco, where bearing them the like newes, brought them all to the like distraction and flight of feet.

Well, in the mutability of time there is aye some fortune falleth by accident, whether lawfull or not, I will not question, it was now mine that was last theirs, and to save the thing that was not lost, I travailed that day thirty miles further to Terra nova. Whence the next morning beeing earely imbarked for Malta, and there safely Landed; A London ship called the Matthew.I met with a ship of London called the Mathew, bound for Constantinople lying in the Roade where indeede with the Company I made merry a shoare for three dayes, and especially with one George Clarke their Burser, who striving to plant in my braines a Maltezan Vineyard, had almost perished his owne life.

Upon the fourth day, they hoysing sayle, and I staying a shoare, it was my good lucke within eight dayes to find a French ship of Tolon come from the Levante, and bound for Tunneis by the way in going home. With whom desirously consorted, within three dayes we touched at our intended Port. And now to reckon the gold that I found in the aforesayd purses, it amounted to three hundred and odde double Pistols; and their Rings being set with Dyamonds, were valued to a hundred Chickens of Malta, eight shillings the peece, which I dispatched for lesser: But the gold was my best second, which like Homers Iliades under Alexanders pillow, was my continuall vade Mecum.

Tunneis is the Capitall seate of its owne Territory, and [VIII. 356.]of all the East and lower Barbary, containing ten thousand fire-houses: And it is the place where old Carthage stood, that was builded by the Tyrians and Phenicians of the Holy Land, some three score twelve yeares before Rome, and had twenty miles in circuit: Which City in these times, was the soveraigne Queene of Affrick, and the onely envy, and predominant malice of the Romanes, being more then Romes rivall mate, in greatnesse, glory, and dominion: Neverthelesse in end, it was taken, sackt, and burnt by Scipio the Affrican Romane, some sixe hundred and two yeares after Rome was first founded, and her ruines and large Territories without, made subject to the ambition of Rome.

The divers plantations of Carthage.After which detriment, desolate Carthage was rebuilded by Cæsar, and a Collony of Italians transported there, flourished for a time, till it was destroyed and overrunne by the Gothes and Vandales: And lastly subdued by the Sarazens and Moores, it was by them transmitted to the Turkish power, who now is Maister of it, being no way answerable to the sixe part of the greatnes it had before. This Towne is situate in the bottome of a Creeke, where the Sea for a mile having cut the bosome of the Land, maketh a large and safe resting place for ships and galleyes. Which Haven and Towne is secured from Sea invasions, by the great and strong Fortresse of Galetto, builded on a high Promontore, that imbraceth the Sea, and commandeth the mouth of the Bay; wherein a Turkish Bassaw, and a strong Garrison of Souldiers remaine: the Fort it selfe being well provided with armes, men, Artillery and munition.

The Kingdome of Tunneis comprehended once the whole Countrey that the auncients called properly Affrick [VIII. 357.]or little Affrick, being the old Numidia, and was divided then in these five Provinces, Bugia, Constantino, that of Tunneis, Tripoly, and Ezzebba. In the Towne of Bugia, lying halfe way twixt Tunneis and Algeir, and 40. leagues from either being now called Arradetz, there was auncient beautifull Temples, Colledges, magnifick buildings, Hospitals, and Convents after their fashion: but the Towne being taken, and razed Anno 1508. by Peter King of Navarre, it hath remained ever since without beauty or ornament, save a few rusticke Inhabitants.

The marine provinces twixt Tunneis and Algier.The province of Constantine, lyeth twixt Tunneis and Bugia; the Towne Constantine, now Abirouh, being Capitall, and was surnamed Cortes and Julia: It is begirded with Rockes, and auncient walles contayning eight hundred fire-houses, wherein are the relicts of an Arke triumphant, formerly built by the Romanes; and in this Province sixteene leagues within land, was the Towne of Hippo, now Bosen, whereof St. Augustine was Bishop.

The Territory of Tunneis, lyeth betweene the borders of Abirouh Westward, and the limits of Tripoly Eastward, being of length foure score miles: and on this Sea-coast lyeth the Towne Biserta, adorned with a commodious Haven, and sixe Gallies, the most scelerate of condition, and celerious in flying or following of all the cursares in Turky: Tripoly in Barbary, (commonly called so) was once drowned by the Sea, but now its situation was transported safely a little more Southward; which sometimes was beautified with Merchants of Genoa, Ragusa, and Venice, but now become a den of theeves, and Sea-Pirats, and so are all the marine Townes, twixt Ægypt and Morocco.

The last Province of the kingdom of Numidia, is [VIII. 358.]Ezzebba lying East from Tripoly, and confining with Cyreno a pendicle of Ægipt: The chiefest part whereof is Messaicke being twenty foure Leagues from Tripoly, contayning many Villages, and Townes on the playnes and Mountaynes, abounding in Silkes, Cornes, and diverse Fruites.

All these five Maritine Provinces, have but narrow Inlands, not advancing South-ward from the Sea coast above forty miles. Here in Tunneis I met with our An English Pyrat Captaine Waird.English Captayne, generall Waird, once a great Pyrat, and Commaunder at Sea; who in despight of his denied acceptance in England, had turned Turke, and built there a faire Palace, beautified with rich Marble and Alabaster stones: With whom I found Domesticke, some fifteene circumcised English Runagates, whose lives and Countenances were both alike, even as desperate as disdainfull. Yet old Waird their maister was placable, and joyned me safely with a passing Land conduct to Algiere; yea, and diverse times in my ten dayes staying there, I dyned and supped with him, but lay aboord in the French shippe.

At last having obtayned my pasport from the Bassaw there, and surety taken for my life and moneyes, I imbraced the Land way with this Conduct, consisting of forty Moores, and a hundred Camels loaden with Silkes, Dimmeteis, and other Commodities, traversing the aforesayd Regions of Abirouh, and Arradetz. In all which way (lying nightly in a Tent) I found a pleasant and fruitfull Country, abounding in Wines, Rye, Barly, Wheate, and all kinde of fruites, with innumerable villages, and so infinitely peopled, that it made me wish there had beene none at all; otherwise that they had beene Christians, and so more civill.

[VIII. 359.]The greatest enemy this journey designed mee, was the Sunne, whose exceeding heate was intollerable to indure, being in September Anno 1615. But for provision of Water, Wine, and Victuals wee had abundance. Upon the seaventh day of our course, wee entred in the Tremizen in Barbary.Countrey of Tremizen, formerly Mauritanea Cæsarea: This Kingdome hath to the West Mauritanea Tingitana, contayning the Empire of Morocco and Fez. On the South Gotulia or Desartuous Numidia. On the East with the Rivers of Muluia and Amphlaga, the Marches of Arradetz. And on the North the Sea Mediterren, opposite to Sardinia. The Countrey is in length from the East to the West, some twenty five of their courses, and of our miles about three hundred; and of breadth betweene the Sea and Gotulia, no more than thirty English miles.

This copious Kingdome in all things, hath beene oft and ever molested with the Numidian Sarazens, or bastard Arabs, who falling downe from the Mountaines, do runne their carriere at random upon the ground-toyled Moores, to satisfie their needy and greedy desires. Tremizen or Telensim, had of old foure Provinces, but now onely two The Towne of Tremizen decayed with Warres.its owne Territory, and that of Algier: Whose capitall Towne being too cognominated Tremizen, contayned once eighteene thousand fire houses. But in regard of Josephus King or Fez, who besieged it seaven yeares, over-mastering it and then subdued by Charles the fifth, and likewise the Turkes investion of it, and finally because of the long warres, twixt the Seriff or King there, and the Turke; it is become a great deale lesser and almost disinhabited, and the most part of that Countrey subject to the authority of the Bassaw of Algier.

[VIII. 360.]At last upon the twelfth day of our leaving Tunneis, having arrived at Algier, and abandoning my Conduct with a good respect, I stayed in a Spaniards house, turned Runagate, who kept a roguish Taverne, and a ground planked Hospitality. In all this way of twelve score miles, I payed no Tribute, neyther had I any eminent perrill, the Country being peaceable, though the people uncivill.

The theevish Towne of Algier.This Towne of Algier, was formerly under subjection to the Kingdome of Tremizen, but because of insupportable charges it revolted, and rendered to the King of Arradetz or Bugia: Afterwards it was under the King of Spaine, from whom Barbarossa did take it Anno 1515. being now under the Turke, and is situate upon the pendicles of a flat devalling height, and standeth triangular. The Marine side whereof is strongly fortified, with earth-back’d walles, Bulwarkes, and Artillery, but the semi-squared land-walles, are of small importance, and easily to be surprised; and three miles in circuite, contayning some thirty thousand persons.

There is a Turkish Bashaw here, and a strong Garrison of sixe thousand Janizaries, with two hundred Cursary ships or Pyrats who ever preying upon Christian Commercers, by their continuall spoyles and prises, have made the divelish Towne wonderfull rich; and become the inveterate enemy of Christendome; being now a Kingdome of it selfe, and in length from East to West betweene the Townes Terracot and Guargola, some sixe score miles. It hath a long reaching mould in the Sea, that maketh a safe harbor for their ships agaynst Northerly windes, which on that Coast are deadly dangerous. At this time, the greatest part of the Towne were fled to the mountaynes to [VIII. 361.]shun the parching heate that beateth violently on the Plaines, and Sea-shore; so doe all the maritine Townes of Barbary the like every Sommer, for the moneths July, August, and September: which then being left halfe naked of defence, it were the onely time for Christianes to invade or surprise their Townes.

I found here abundance of slaves, most of them Spaniards, whom they dayly constraine within Towne to beare all manner of burdens here and there, and without Towne to drudge in the fields, amongst their Vines and Cornes, and other toyling labours, abusing them still with buffets and bastinadoes as their perverstnesse listeth: Neither durst I leave my lodging, unlesse I had three or foure Christian slaves to guide me, and guard me too from scelerate vulgars: who beare no respect to any stranger nor free Franck. A naturall sublime policy.Here I remarked a wonderfull policy in the Turkish state, concerning these thiftuous and rapinous Townes of Barbary; who as they are ordained ever to plague and prey upon the Spaniard, yet under that colour they licentiat them to make havock and seaze upon all other Christiane ships, goods, and persons as they please, the French Nation excepted: And so they doe notwithstanding of our several Ambassadours lying at Constantinople, who rather stay there as Mungrells than absolute Ambassadours: for why should Christian Princes meditate for peace and commerce with the Turke, when theirs, with his subjects the Barbarian Moores have no safety; they being obedient to his lawes, and over-ruled by Bassawes, as well as these are of Asia and Easterne Europe: from which I gather, as from all other like examples, that there is a more sublime over-mastering policy, subtility, and provident foresight, in meere naturall men as Turkes be, then in our best Grandeurs, for all their Sciences, & schoole studies can either perceive or [VIII. 362.]perform farre less prosecute. To which avowed dangers if any small ship, ruled by rash fellowes, should adventure within the straites, as too many English doe, beeing unable and unprovided for defence; and so are taken & Captivated, and afterward redeemed by Contributions over the Land: I justly affirme it, they deserve rather to be punished, and remayne there in punishment, then any reliefe or redemption to be wrought for them, who will nakedly hazard themselves in knowne perrils, without Ordonance, munition, and a burdenable ship.

But reverting to my purpose, the marine Provinces which lye betweene Ægypt and Sewty, over agaynst The Barbarian Provinces twixt Egypt and Gibelterre.Gibelterre being the Straits, are these; Cyrene, Barca Marmorica, Ezzeba, the Trypolian Jurisdiction, the Kingdomes of Tunneis, Abirouh, Arradetz, Tremizen, Algier, and a part of Fez; extending to two thousand and three hundred Maritine miles: All which, by ignorant Sea-men, and ruvide Moores is tearmed Barbary, who can not distinguish parts nor provinces, but even as the Orientall Turkes doe, that denominate all Asia minor, under the name Carmania, and know no further of their ancient nor particular titles.

Now as concerning their Customes, it is the fashion of all these Barbarian Moores, in marrying of their wives, that after the Bridegroome and the Bride are inrolled by their Totsecks or Priests in the Mosque before the Parents of each party, and the Bride presently brought home to the house of her Husband, accompanied with al their Friends, Musicke, and Revelling: He immediatly withdraweth her to a private Chamber, having onely one old woman standing by them in a corner of the Roome: where hee lying with the Bride, and shee being found a Mayde, [VIII. 363.]by a certayne cloath layd under her privy place, which being by the old Hagge drawne out, and found sprinkled with spots of blood shee presenteth it first to him, as a token of virginity; and then forthwith runneth through the house, among all the friends of the new married couple, crying with a loud voyce, and carrying the bloody napkin in her hand, the Virgine-bride is broken up; whereat they all rejoyce, giving rewards and good cheare to the Cryer: The tryall of Moorish Brides.But if the bride be not found a Mayd, then he returneth her backe unto her Parents which they accompt as an immortall shame, and the nuptiall feast, and all the assistants thereunto, are suddenly dismissed: But if a Virgine, the banquet continueth all the first day, with great cheare, dancings, revellings, with Musicall Instruments of divers sorts.

The second night is onely the feast of women for both parties; and the third banquet is made on the seventh day after the nuptiall, the provision of which the father of the Bride sendeth to the house of his new sonne in law: where after this banquet, and the seventh day, in the next morning the Bridegroome goeth then abroad from his house (which hee doth not till the aforesayd time) unto the market place, where he buyeth a number of fish to carry with him to his dwelling, as a signe of good lucke, it being an auncient custome through the most part of all the Notherne Affrick.

The men and women at such meetings dance a part, each of them having their own Musicke and orders of merriment.

They have also a custome that when Infants beginne to breed teeth, their Parents will make a solemne feast to all the Children of the Towne, with divers ceremonies; which custome they reserve yet, in divers parts of Italy.

[VIII. 364.]The women through all Barbary, weare abundance of Bracelets on their armes, and Rings in their eares, but not through the nose and lips as the Ægyptians doe; and turne also the nayles of their hands and feete to red, accounting it a base thing to see a white naile: The men here for the most part, are the best Archers, and Horse-men that are in Affrick, and take great pleasure in breeding of their Barbes: So are they both active and couragious, and very desperate in all their attempts, being all of the Mahometanicall Religion, though more ignorant thereof than the Turkes: some whereof are subject to the Turke, some to the Emperour of Morocco, and some to their owne barbarous Princes.

And now it was my fortune here in Algier, after 12. Monsieur Chatteline a French Lapidator.dayes abode, to meete with a French Lapidator, Monsieur Chatteline borne in Aise du Provance, who intending to visit Fez, joyned company with me, and we with certaine Merchants of Algier that were going hither: being in all 30. passengers, with two Jannizaries and a Dragoman.

Whence advancing our way, some on Mules, and some on foote, with Asses carrying our baggage and provision; we left the marine Townes of Saly and Tituana, far to the West on our right hand, and facing the in-land wee marched for three dayes through a fruitfull and populous soyle: And although the peoples barbarous and disdainefull countenances were awfull, yet we two went still free of tributs, as not being a thing with them accustomary, to execute exaction on Francks as the Turkes and Moores do in Asia, neither understood they what wee were, being cled with company, and after their fashion: save onely that nature had set a fairer stamp on my face, than theirs, which oft I wished had beene as blacke as their uglines. [VIII. 365.]In this misculat journeying of paine & pleasure we found every where strong Wines, abundance of excellent bread, and the best, and greatest Hens bred on the earth, with plenty of Figges, Fruits, Olives, and delicious oyle, yea, and innumerable Villages, the houses whereof are all builded with mudde, and platformed on their tops; and so are they in Asia, and all Affrick over.

Upon the fourth day having past the Plaines, we entered in a hilly Countrey, yet pastorable; where I beheld here and there clouds of Tents, filled with maritine people, that were fled hither from the Sea coast for the fresh and cooling ayre.

And upon these pleasant and umbragious heights, I saw the fields overcled with flocks of Sheepe and Goats: which Sheepe are wondrous great, having from their rumpes and hips, broad and thicke tayles growing, and hanging to the ground, some whereof when sold, will weigh 16. 18. or 20. pounds weight, and upwards. Here among the mountaines, our company knowing well the Countrey, tooke a great advantage of the way, and on the seventh day in the morning, Mine arrival at Fez.wee arrived at the great Towne of Fez: where the French man and I were conducted by some of our company to a great Moorish Inne or Taverne: & there received, we were as kindly & respectively used, as ever I was in any part of the Turks Dominions, being now out of them, & in the Empire of Morocco.

This City of Fez is situate upon the bodies and twice double devalling faces of two hills, like to Grenada in Andelosia in Spaine; the intervale, or low valley betweene both (through which the torride River of Marraheba runneth Southward) being the Center and chiefest place, is the most beautifull and populous part of the City; the situation of which, and of the whole, is just set under the Tropick of Cancer.

[VIII. 366.]Over which River, and in this bottome, there are three score and seaven Bridges of stone and Timber, each of them being a passage for open streetes on both sides. The intervayle consisteth of two miles in length, and halfe a mile broad; wherein, besides five Chereaffs or Market places, there are great Palaces, magnificke Mosquees, Great Colledges and Hospitalls.Colledges, Hospitals, and a hundred Palatiat Tavernes, the worst whereof, may lodge a Monarchicke trayne: Most part of all which buildings, are three and foure stories high, adorned with large and open Windowes, long Galleries, spacious Chambers, and flat tectures or square platformes.

The streetes being covered above, twixt these plaine-set Fabrickes, have large Lights cut through the tectur’d tops every where; in whose lower shoppes or Roomes are infinite Merchandize, and Ware of all sorts to bee sold.

The people of both kindes are cloathed in long breeches and bare Ancles, with red or yellow shooes shod with Iron on the Heeles, and on the Toes with white Horne; and weare on their bodies long Robes of Linning or Dimmety, and silken Wast-coates of diverse Colours: The behaviour of the Vulgars being far more civill toward Strangers then at Constantinople; or else where in all Turkey.

The Women here go unmasked abroad, wearing on their heads, broad, and round Capes, made of Straw or small Reedes, to shade their faces from the Sunne; and damnable Libidinous, beeing prepared both wayes to satisfie the lust of their Luxurious Villaines; neyther are they so strictly kept as the Turkish Women, marching where they please.

There are some twelve thousand allowed Brothell-houses [VIII. 367.]in this Towne, the Courtezans being neatly kept, and weekely well looked to by Physitians; but worst of all, in the Summer time, they openly Lycentiat three thousand common Stewes of Sodomiticall boyes: Nay I have seene at mid-day, in the very Market places, the Moores buggering these filthy Carrions, and without shame or punishment go freely away.

There are severall Seates of Justice heere (though none to vindicate beastlinesse) occupied by Cadeis and Sanzackes, which twice a Weeke heare all differences and complaints: their chiefe Seriff, or Vicegerent, being sent from Morocco, is returned hither agayne every third yeare.

The beauty and greatnes of Fez.The two Hills on both sides the planur’d Citty, East, and West, are over-cled with streetes and Houses of two stories high, beeing beautified also with delicate Gardens, and on their extreame devalling parts, with numbers of Mosquees and Watch-towers: On which heights, and round about the Towne, there stand some three hundred Wind-mils; most part whereof pertayne to the Mosques, and the two magnifick Colledges erected for education of Children, in the Mahometanicall Law.

One of which Accademies, cost the King Habahennor in building of it, foure hundred and three score thousand Duckets. Jacob sonne to Abdulach the first King of the Families of Meennons, divided Fez in three parts, and with three severall Walles, though now invironed with onely one, and that broken downe in sundry parts.

The chiefest Mosque in it, is called Mammo-Currarad, signifying the glory of Mahomet, being an Italian mile in Compasse, and beautified with seventeene high ground Steeples, besides Turrets and Towers: having thirty foure [VIII. 368.]entring Doores; beeing supported within, and by the The modell of the great City of Fez.length, with forty eight pillars, and some twenty three Ranges of pillars in breadth, besides many Iles, Quires, and circulary Rotundoes: Every Pillar having a Lampe of Oyle burning thereat; where there, and through the [VIII. 369.]whole Mosque, there are every night nine hundred Lamps lighted; and to maintaine them, and a hundred Totsecks and preaching Talsumans, the rent of it extendeth to two hundred Duccats a day: Neverthelesse there are in the City besides it, more then foure hundred and threescore The magnifick Mosque of Fez.Mosquees; fifty whereof are well benefited and superbiously decored within and without, with glorious and extraordinary workmanship, whose rooffes within are all Mosaick worke, and curiously indented with Gold, and the walles and pillars being of grey Marble, interlarded with white Alabaster, and so is the chiefe Mosque too in which Monsieur Chatteline and I had three sundry recourses accompanied with our Moorish hoste, who from their Priests had procured that licence for us. This City aboundeth in all manner of provision fit for man or beast, & is the goodliest place of all North Affrick, contayning a hundred and twenty thousand fire-houses, and in them a million of soules: Truely this is a world for a City, and may rather second Grand Caire, than subjoyne it selfe to Constantinople, being farre superior in greatnesse with Aleppo: For these are the foure greatest Cities, that ever I saw in the world, either at home or abroad.

The Cittizens here are very modest and zealous at their divine services, but great dauncers and revellers on their solemne festivall dayes, wherein they have Bull-beating, Maskerats, singing of rimes, and processions of Priests. The Moores in times past of Fez and Morocco, had divers excellent personages, well learned, and very civill; for amongst the Kings Mahometan one can not praise too much the Kings Almansor, Maunon, and Hucceph, being most excellent men in their superstition.

[VIII. 370.]In whose times flourished the most famous medicines, and Philosophers that were among the Pagans, as A Vicenne, Rasis, Albumazar, Averroes, &c. with other great numbers maintained by the Kings of Morocco, that then were Masters of all Barbary and Spaine: As in Spaine may be seene yet, (though now fallen in decay) a great number of their Colledges, shewing they were great lovers of their Religion and Doctrine, and are so to this day, save onely in their drinking of Wine forbidden by their Alcoran. They were great devisers too of gallant sportings, exercises, turnaments, and Bull-beating, which Spayne retaineth to this time; yea, and the Romanes did learne, and follow many of them.

Here in Fez there be a great number of Poets, that make Songs on divers subjects, especially of Love, and Lovers, whom they openly name in their rimes, without Poets among Barbarians in great request.rebuke or shame: All which Poets once every yeare, agane Mahomets birth-day, make rimes to his praise; meanewhile in the after noone of that festivall day, the whole Poets assembling in the market place, there is a Dasked chayre prepared for them, whereon they mount one after another to recite their verses in audience of all the people; and who by them is judged to be best, is esteemed all that yeare above the rest, having this Epithite the Prince of Poets, and is by the Vicegerent and Towne rewarded; But in the time of the Maennon Kings, the Prince on that day in his owne Pallace did conveine the whole Cittizens, in whose presence he made a solemne feast to all the best Poets; causing every one of them to recite the praise of Mahomet before his face, standing on a high scaffold: And to him that was thought to excell the rest, the King gave him 100. Sultans of gold, an horse, a woman slave, [VIII. 371.]& the long Robe that was about him for the time: And to each one of the rest he caused give fifty Sultans, so that every one should have some recompense for their paines: Indeed a worthy observance; and would to God it were now the custome of our Europian Princes to doe the like, and especially of this Ile, then would bravest wits, and quickest braines, studdy and strive to show the exquisit ingeniosity of their best styles, and pregnant invention, which now is ecclipsed, and smotherd downe, because now a dayes, there is neither regard nor reward for such excellent Pen-men. Fez was aunciently named Sylda, whose Kingdome hath Atlas to the South, the River of Burdraga to the East, and Tremizen: Morocco to the West: And the confynes of Guargula, and a part of the Sea to the North: Having spent in Fez 17. dayes, in all which time, we daily conversed with some Christian Abasines, Heragens or Ethiopian Negroes.Heragenes, or Æthiopian Nigroes, some whereof were Merchands, and some religious; and Monsieur Chattelines businesse not effected, seeking Diamonds and precious stones to buy; was seriously advised by them, to goe for Arracon, a great Towne on the Frontiers of the Northerne Æthiopia: where he would finde abundance of such at an easie rate, giving him a perfit direction for his passage hither being 30. daies journey: he concluded with their counsell his resolution, and perswading me to the same intention, I yeeld, being over-mastred with the greedy desire of more sights.

Meanewhile for our conduct, we hire a Dragoman Moore that spoke Italiens to be our Interpreter, and with him a Tent, and two Moorish drudges to guide, guard, & serve us by the way of fifty eight Sultans for gold, eighteene pounds foure shillings English: having sixe of their Kinsmen fast bound to a Sanzak or Justice, for our lives, liberties, and moneyes.

[VIII. 372.]Hereupon having provided our selves, with all necessary things, and a Mule to carry our Victuals, Water and Baggage, we discharged our conscionable Hostage, at twenty Aspers a day the man, being thirty foure shillings to each of us; and were brought on our way, by the aforesayd Christian Heragenes some foure Leagues. Where having left them with dutifull thankes, wee set forward in our journey, and for seaven dayes together wee were not violently molested by any thing, save intollerable heate, finding tented people and scattered Villages all the way.

The eight day, the way being fastidious and Rockey, Chatteline the French Lapidator taken sicke.and Chatteline on foot, he succumb’d, and could not subsist, not beeing used to pedestriall travayle; and for our better speed and his reliefe, wee mounted him aloft on the top of our baggage. At last arriving at Ahetzo (where we reposed) being the furthest and South-most Towne of the Kingdome of Fez, composed of a thousand fire-houses, well fortified with Walles, and a Garrison of Moores in it, subject to the Emperour of Morocco: the French-man long or day, fell sicke of a burning Feaver: Whereuppon wee stayed five dayes expecting his health, which growing worse and worse, and hee mindfull to returne, which I would not: I left him in safe custody, and one of our Drudges to attend him till Fez. And bearing the charges of the other two, according to the former condition: I set forward for my purpose, which ere long turned to sad Repentance.

Leaving Ahetzo behind us, and entring the Countrey of the Agaroes, we found the best inhabitants halfe cled, the Vulgars naked, the Countrey voyd of Villages, Rivers, or Cultivage: but the soyle rich in Bestiall, abounding in [VIII. 373.]Sheep, Goates, Camels, Dromidores, and passing good horses: Having an Emeere of their owne, being subject to none, but to his owne passions, and them to the disposition of his scelerate nature; yet hee, and they had a bastard show of Mahometanicall Religion: Their Bestiall are watered with sources, and the pastorable fields, with the nightly Serene, and themselves with the Watrish concavity of the earth. In our sixe dayes toyle, traversing this Countrey, we had many troubles and snarlings from these Savages, who sometimes over-laboured us with Bastinadoes, and were still inquirous what I was, and whether I went; yea, and enough for the Dragoman to save my life and liberty.

Having past the perverstnesse of this calamity, upon the seaventh day, wee rancountred with another soyle, The Tribe of the Hagans or Jamnites.and worser tribe of the Hagans or Jamnites, most part whereof were white Moores, a people more uglye then the Nigroes, yet some of the better sort had their members covered, but of condition farre more wicked then the former.

They are ruled by a Seriff, whose Guard is composed of women, and young Balars, pages; seeming rather to live without Religion, then acknowledging any kinde of Deity. Here my Dragoman, doubting of his passage, and the difficilnesse of the Countrey, which arose from his ignorantnesse thereof, was inforced to hyre a Hagan guide, to bring us to the province of Abadud, bordering with Æthiopia. But by your leave, our guide having led us for five dayes together South-eastward, and almost contrary to our purpose: in the sixt night of our Repose, he stole away, eyther for feare or falshood, mistaking our journey, or deceiving us for despight, the halfe of his Wages being payed him before. Well, the Villaine gone, [VIII. 374.]and my Dragoman the next day continuing our faces, in the same Arte, wee were long or night involved in a dis-inhabited Country, being Desartuous and dangerous for Wilde beasts, and full of Mountaynes. Pitching our Tent neare to a Rocke, we burnt all that night shrubs of Tara, to affright the Beasts of all kinds, and so did we every night of that wofull wandring, which flaming light [VIII. 375.]their nature cannot abide. Day come, and our comfort yet fresh, we sought further in, thinking to finde people and Tents to relieve us with Victuales, and informe us of the Countrey, but we found none, neither seven daies thereafter. The matter growing hard, and our victuals and water done, we were forced to relye upon Tobacco, and to drinke our owne wayning pisse, for the time aforesayd.

The Soyle we daily traced, was covered with hard and soft Sands, and them full of Serpents, being interlarded with Rockey heights, faced with Caves and Dens: the very habitacle of Wilde beasts, whose hollow cryes, as we heard in the night, so we too often sighted their bodies in the The Wilde Beasts of the Libian Desarts.day, especially Jackals, Beares, and Boares, and sometimes Cymbers, Tygers, and Leopards, agaynst whom in the day time if they approached us, we eyther shot off a Harquebuse, or else flashed some powder in the Ayre; the smell whereof, no ravenous beast can abide.

This vast Wildernesse is a part of the Berdoans Countrey, one of the foure tribes of the olde Lybians, the Sabuncks, the Carmines, and the Southerne Garolines, being the other three. And now to helpe the expression of my grievous distresse and miseries, my Muse must lament the rest.

But to shorten my Discourse, of barren Wildernesses, supposed to be a part of the Lybian Desarts, my Dragoman upon the fourth day of our seaven being there, falling in despaire, and wondring to see me indure such heate, [VIII. 377.]such hunger, and such toyle, did threaten mee with death, to make me seeke backe for our nearest refuge: Whereupon holding our course North-east, my compasse-Dyall being our guide, we rancountred earely on the eight day, with nine hundred Savages, naked Lybian Sabunks: five hundred whereof, were women armed with Bowes and Arrowes; who with their complices, the former night had put to the sword, three hundred Berdoanes, their neighbour tribe: carrying away above sixe thousand Sheepe and Goats besides other bestiall: from whom after our sight of their Emeere or Prince, we had first liberty of life, and then reliefe of food; for he came up in the Reare, with a hundred Horse-men charged with halfe Pikes, headed at The prince of the Sabuncks apparrell.both ends with sharpe Steele: The person of their Prince was onely clothed from his breasts downe to his middle thigh with a Crimson vayle of Silke, hanging on his naked shoulders with coloured Ribans, and on his head a party coloured Shash set like a Garland: Both his knees were bare, so were his ancles, the calves of his legges being girded with Crimson Silke, and on his feet yellow shooes; his beard was like his face, burnt with the Sun, and his age like to my owne, of 33. yeares, his Religion is damnable, so is his life, for hee and all the foure tribes of Lybia worship onely for their God, Garlick, having Altars, Priests, and superstitious rites annexed to it: Thinking Garlicke, being strong of it selfe, and the most part of their food, to have a soveraigne vertue in a herball Deity. All his Courtiers were starke naked saving his Page, who was even covered like to the King his Master.

And now having dismissed his Army for the way, and falling in a houres parley with us at his departure, he propyned me with his Bowe, & a Quiver of Arrowes, which afterward, I presented to his Majesty, then Prince.

[VIII. 378.]There is a merry secret heere concerning the women, which often I recited to King James of Blessed memory, showing him also three Certificates of this my Desartuous wandring: one of which was confirmed by English Waird at Tunneis upon the Dragomans Report; though now they with all my other Patents are lost, in the Inquisition of Malaga. This former savage Prince sent a Guide with us for foure dayes journey, the condition of his mans Wages being made by himselfe, and franckly advised us that Tunneis was our best and nearest Recourse. Which being forcibly considered, I was constrayned to renew my bargaine agayne with the Dragoman, at the rate of forty five Sultans of gold, to bring me safely hither.

This Sabunck Guide, to whom I gave five Sultans, thirty five shillings, brought us through the most Habitable vallies, and best cled passages of the Countrey with Tents: where every day once we found Water, Bread, Garlicke and Onions, and sometimes Hennes at twenty Aspers the peece, two shillings; which we would Rost, or scorch dry (if trueth may have credite) at the very face of the Sunne, and so eate them. Upon the fift day, our Guide leaving us in the after-noone, well setled among foure hundred Tents of Numidian Moores, or bastard Arabians, pitched in a pleasant Valley, betweene two sources of Water, wee stayed still there Reposing our selves, and Refreshing our bodies with Victuals, some nine dayes.

Moorish Smiths forging horse-shooes out of cold Iron without fire, but the heat of the Sun.Heere among these Tents, I saw Smiths Worke out of cold Iron, Horse-shooes, and Nayles, which is onely molified by the vigorous heate and Raies of the Sunne, and the hard hammering of hands upon the Anvile: So have I seene it also in Asia. I could bee more particular here, but Time, Paper, Printing, and charges will not [VIII. 379.]suffer me. And now from hence, renewing our Guides from place to place, and discending from Savage Moores to Civill Moores, we arrived (though with great difficulty and danger) safely at Tunneis.

The Beglerbegship of Barbary.And to conclude this Eight Part, there are three Beglerbergships in the higher and lower Barbary: The first is at Trypolis, which was taken in by Sinan Bassa from the Knights of Malta 1551. and commaundeth under him eight thousand Tymariots, besides sixe thousand Jannizaries. The second is at Tunneis, the Beglerbeg whereof, being of great Authority, commaundeth under him twelve Sanzackes, and thirty five thousand Tymariots. The third is, that of Algier, whose Bassa hath under him fourteene Sanzacks, and the commaundment of forty thousand Tymariots. These are all the Beglerbegs, the Great Turke retayneth in Affricke, except the great Vizier-Bassa of Ægipt: although in Asia major and Minor, he commandeth in severall Provinces and Kingdomes, thirty Bassaes or Beglerbegs.