Nunc seges est ubi Troja fuit.
Now Corne doth grow, where once faire Troy stood,
And soyle made fat, with streames of Phrygian blood.
Leaving the fields of noble Ilium, we crossed the River of Simois, & dined at a Village named Extetash: I remember, in discharging our covenant with the Janisary, who [III. 126.]was not contented with the former condition, the French men making obstacle to pay that which I had given, the wrathfull Janisary belaboured them both with a cudgell, till the bloud sprung from their heads, and compelled them to double his wages. This is one true note to a Traveller (whereof I had the full experience afterward) that if he cannot make his owne part good, he must alwayes at the first motion content these Rascals; otherwise he will be constrained, doubtlesse, with stroakes, to pay twice as much: for they make no account of conscience, nor ruled by the Law of compassion, neither regard they a Christian more than a dogge: but whatsoever extortion or injury they use against him, he must be French-like contented, bowing his head, and making a counterfeit shew of thankes, and happy too oftentimes, if so he escape.
Sestos and Abydos.Hence we arrived at the Castles, called of olde Sestos, and Abydos, in a small Frigot, which are two Fortresses opposite to other: Sestos in Europe where Thracia beginneth; and Abidos in Asia where Bithinia likewise commenceth, being a short mile distant, and both of them foure leagues from Troy. They stand at the beginning of Hellespont, and were also cognominate the Castles of Hiero and Leander, which were erected in a commemoration of their admirable fidelity in love.
Which curling tops, Leander cut in two,
And through proud billowes, made his passage goe;
To court his Mistresse: O Hiero the faire!
Whom Hellespont to stop, was forc’d to dare:
Sweet was their sight to other, short their stay,
For still Leander, was recald by day.
At last sterne Æole, puft on Neptunes pride,
And gloomy Hellespont, their loves divide:
[III. 127.]He swimmes, and sinkes, and in that glutting downe,
The angry Fates, did kind Leander drowne:
Of which when Hiero heard, judge you her part,
She smote her selfe, and rent in two her heart.
But now they are commonly called the Castles of Gallipoly; yea, or rather the strength of Constantinople, betweene which no Shippes may enter, without knowledge of the Captaines, and are by them strictly and warily searched, least the Christians should carry in Men, Munition, or furniture of Armes, for they stand in feare of surprising the Towne: And at their returne they must stay three dayes, before they are permitted to go through, because of transporting away any Christian slaves, or if they have committed any offence in the Citty, the knowledge thereof may come in that time.
At that same instant of my abode at Abidos, there were fourescore Christian slaves, who having cut their Captaines throat, with the rest of the Turkes, Christian slaves fled from Constantinople.runne away from Constantinople with the Galley. And passing here the second day thereafter at midnight, were discovered by the watch of both Castles, where the Cannon never left thundring for two houres; yet they escaped with small hurt, and at last arrived in the Road of Zante; desiring landing, & succour, for their victuals were done: victuals they sent them, but the Governour would not suffer them to come on Land. In end, the Sea growing somewhat boysterous, the slaves for an excuse cut their Cables, and runne the Galley a shoare: Upon this they were entertained in service, but the Providitor caused to burne the Galley, fearing least the Turkes should thereby forge some quarrell. The yeare following, an other Galley attempted the same, but the poore slaves having past the Castles, [III. 128.]had bene so wounded and killed with the great shot, and the Galley ready to sinke, they were enforced to runne a shoare, where the next morning being apprehended, they were miserably put to death. Betwixt the Castles and Constantinople, is about fourty leagues. Over this straite Xerxes did make a bridge of boates to passe into Greece, which when a sudden tempest had shrewdly battered, he caused the sea to be beaten with 300. stripes.
The sorrow of Xerxes.And at that same time Xerxes passing over the Hellespont, and seeing all the sea cled with his Army, his Horses, Chariots, and Ships, the teares burst from his eyes: and being demanded the cause of his griefe? answered, O, sayd he, I weepe because within a hundreth yeares, all this great and glorious sight, shall be dissolved to nothing; and neither man, nor beast shall be alive, nor Chariot, nor Engine of Warre, but shall be turn’d to dust; and so I sorrow to see the short mortality of Nature. Indeed it was a worthy saying, from such a Heathnish Monarch, who saw no further, than the present misery of this life.
Here I left the two French men with a Greeke Barbour, and imbarked for Constantinople, in a Turkish Frigato. The first place of any note I saw, within these narrow Seas, was the auncient Citty of Gallipolis, the second seate of Thracia, which was first builded by Caius Caligula, and sometimes had beene inhabited by the Gaules: It was the first Towne in Europe, that the Turkes conquered; and was taken by Solyman sonne to Orchanes, Anno 1438.
North from Thracia lyeth the Province of Bulgaria commonly Volgaria, and was called so of certaine people, that came from a countrey, neere to the River Volgo in Russia, about the yeare 666. It lieth betweene Servia, Thracia, and Danubio, and by the Auncients, it was [III. 129.]thought to be the lower Mysia (but more justly the Region of Dacia.) The chiefe Towne is Sophia, which some hold to be that Towne, which Ptolomeus named Tibisca.
Here in Thracia lived the Tyrant Polymnestor, who treacherously murthered Polidorus a yonger sonne of Priamus: For which fact Hecuba, the young Princes mother scratched him to death. Here also reigned the worthy King Cotis, whom I propose as a paterne of rare temper, in maistering and preventing passion: To whom when a neighbour Prince had sent him an exquisite present, of accurately wrought glasses; he (having dispatched the messenger with all due complements and gratitude of Majestie) broke them all to peeces: Least by mishappe, any of his Servants doing the like, might stirre or move him to an intemperate choller.
Mount Athos.The Greekes here, and generally through all Greece, beare as much reverence and respect to Mount Athos, as the Papists beare to Rome: All of which Religious Coliers or Friers, must toyle and labour for their living, some in the Vines, some in the Corne-fields, and others at home in their Monasteries, or else where abroad, are alwayes occupied for the mainteining of their Families: They are but poorely cled, yet wonderfull kinde to all Viadants; so that who so have occasion to passe that Mountaine, are there lodged, and furnished of all necessary provision of food, by these sequestrat or solitary livers, whose simple and harmelesse lives, may be tearmed to be the very Emblemes of Piety and Devotion; knowing nothing but to serve God, and to live soberly in their carriage.
The chiefest Cities of Thrace, are Constantinople, Abdera, where Democritus was borne, who spent his life [III. 130.]in laughing, Sestos, Gallipoli, Trajanople, Galata, and Adrianopolis, which was taken by Bajazet, Anno. 1362.
As we sayled betweene Thracia and Bithinia, a learned Grecian brought up in Padua that was in my company, shewed me Colchis, whence Jason, with the assistance of the Argonautes, and the aide of Medeas skill, did fetch the golden fleece. The Sea Hellespont.This Sea Hellespont tooke the name of Helle daughter to Athamas King of Thebes, who was here drowned; and of the Countrey Pontus, joyning to the same Sea, wherein are these three Countries, Armenia minor, Colchis, and Cappadocia. After we had fetcht up the famous City of Calcedon in Bithinia on our right hand; I beheld on our left hand, the Prospect of that little World, the great City of Constantinople; which indeed yeeldeth such an outward splendor to the amazed beholder, of goodly Churches, stately Towers, gallant Steeples, and other such things, whereof now the World make so great accompt, that the whole earth cannot equall it. Beholding these delectable objects, we entred in the channell of Bosphorus, which divideth Perah from Constantinople. And arriving at Tapanau, where all the munition of the great Turke lyeth, I adressed my selfe to a Greeke lodging, to refresh my selfe till morning.
But (by your leave) I had a hard welcome in my landing, for bidding farewell to the Turkes, who had kindly used me three dayes, in our passage from the Castles, the Maister of the boate saying, adio Christiano: There were foure French Runnagats standing on the Kaye; A harsh arrivall.who hearing these words, fell desperatly upon me, blaspheming the name of Jesus, and throwing me to the ground, beate me most cruelly: And if it had not beene for my friendly Turkes, who leaped out of their boate and relieved me, I had doubtlesse there [III. 131.]perished. The other Infidells standing by, said to me, behold what a Saviour thou hast, when these that were Christians, now turned Mahometans, cannot abide, nor regard the name of thy God; having left them, with many a shrewd blow, they had left me, I entred a Greeke lodging, where I was kindly received; and much eased of my blowes, because they caused to oynt them with divers Oyles, and refreshed me also with their best entertainement, gratis, because I had suffered so much for Christs sake, and would receive no recompense againe. The day following, I went to salute, and doe my duety to the right Worshipfull Sir Thomas Glover, then Lord Ambassadour for our late Gratious Soveraigne King James, of blessed memory, who most generously & courteously entertained me three moneths in his house, to whose kindnesses I was infinitely obliged: as hereafter in my following discourse of the fourth part of this History, shall be more particularly avouched: for certainely I never met with a more compleat Gentleman in all my travells; nor one in whom true worth did more illustrat vertue.