The Winter expired, & the Spring gone, time summoned me after three moneths repose, to imbrace the violence of a firy fac’d season: where having dutifully taken my Counge of many worthy friends, who both kindly, and respectively had used me; especially, the aforesayd English Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover: And the new Ambassadour, Sir Paul Pinder, who had lately arrived there before my departure, and had bene formerly Consull in Aleppo five yeares.

I left Constantinople, and imbarked in a Ship belonging to London, named the Allathya, whereof one Maister Wylds in Ratcliffe was Maister; where indeed both he and his Company kindly and respectively used me, for the space of twelve daies; being bound for Smyrna, and so we sayled along the coast of Bithinia in Asia minor.

Bithinia hath on the North Hellespont: On the West Phrigia; on the East Pontus: and on the South Capadocia or Leuco Syria: The chiefe Citties are Calcedon, where, by comaund of the Emperour Martianus, the fourth Generall Counsell was assembled, to repell the Heresie of Nestorius. Nigh unto the side of Hellespont is Mount [V. 172.]Stella, famous for that victory which Pompey had over Mithridates: And where Tamberlane with 800000. Tartarians incountred Bajazet, whose Army consisted of 500000. men; of which 200000. lost their lives that day: And Bajazet taken by Tamberlane.Bajazet being taken, was carried about in an Iron Cage on whose necke Tamberlane used to set his foote, when he mounted on horse-backe; and at last beate out his owne braines against the barres of the Iron Cage: the next Cities are Nicomedia; and Nyce, where the first Generall Councell was kept, Anno 314. to which there assembled 318. Bishops to beate downe the Arian Heresie. The other Townes are Prusa and Labissa; the former was built by Prusias King of Bithinia, who betrayed Hanniball when he fled to him for succour; in the latter Hanniball lyeth buried. Prusa was a long time the seate of the Ottoman Kings, till Mahomet the first began to keepe his Residence at Andrianople: The chiefe Rivers are Ascanius, Sangaro, and Granico, nigh unto which Alexander obtained the first victory against the Persians.

Having passed Bithinia, and the Phrigian coast, we fetched up Cenchrea, where Saint Paul cut his haire, after his vow was performed, Acts 18. 18. Being a Towne now inhabited by Greekes, with a Turkish Governour, and of small importance, in regard of other neighbouring places, that bereave them of their trafficke; and because the Jewes do not much frequent here: the Inhabitants are rather turned spectators to Vertue, than any way inherent to necessary goodnesse: Want of Strangers being one let, and vitious otiosity the other stop: This City standeth by the sea side in the North part of Ionia, but more truely on the West frontiers of Lydia. Lydia hath on the West Phrigia minor: on the South Ionia: on the East Paphlagonia, on the North-west Æolus, & a part of [V. 173.]Phrygia major. The chiefe Metropole is Sardis, once the Royall seat of Crœsus the richest King in his time, who in his full prosperity, was told by Solon, that no man could reckon upon felicity so long as he lived, because there might be great mutability of Fortune, which afterward he found true: The recitall of which advertisement, when he was taken prisoner by Cyrus saved his life: The next City is Pergamus, where Parchment was first invented, and therefore called Pergamenum: here was Galen borne, who lived so healthfully one hundreth and forty yeares: the reason whereof, he thus affixeth; he never eate or drunke his full, & ever carried some sweete perfumes with him. The other Townes are Thyatira, Laodicea, and Philadelphia.

Upon the twelfth day after our departure from Constantinople, we arrived at Smirna, being foure hundreth miles distant.

The City of Smyrna.This City was one of the seven Churches mentioned Revelation 2. 8. And standeth in Ionia: of this place was the famous Martyr Polycarpus Bishop, who sometimes had bene Schollar to John the Evangelist: and living till he was of great age, was at last put to death for Christs sake. It is a goodly place, having a faire Haven for Ships: They have great trafficke with all Nations; especially for fine Silke, Cotten wooll, and Dimmety, brought to it by the Countrey Peasants, which straungers buy from them.

Truely, neare unto this City, I saw a long continuing plaine, abounding in Cornes, Wines, all sorts of fruitfull herbage, and so infinitely peopled, that methought Nature seemed, with the peoples industry to contend, the one by propagating creatures, the other by admirable agriculture.

That for Commodities and pleasure, it is little inferiour unto the valley of Suda in Candy, which maketh the [V. 174.]inhabitants wondrous insolent: for as mirth is made of Wealth is the brother of vice.pleasure, and with pleasures all vices are baited; even so there is not a more incorrigible creature then man in prosperity, nor so modest nor reformed an one, as he, to whom fortune hath lent but a sparing and crooked favour, which indeed I hold best of all: for it is the forming of the mind, not the tongue, nor hand, that can preferre us to true felicitie: And would to God that these, upon whome none but faire windes have ever blowne, in the carreire of their supposed happinesse, could but see for all their high and overtopping places, their end, and resting place: since they are nought but the arrowes of the omnipotent arme, that are yet flying not at theirs but his marke; and no more owners of their owne proposed ends, then they are guilty of their owne beginnings: surely they would cover their faces with another kind of maske then they do: and make their actions seeme more cleare, then the force of policie can obumbrate their wicked devices.

Thiatyra now called Tiria, one also of the seven Churches is not from Smirna above eighteene miles.

From this Citie (having left my kind English men and their stately ship that carryed 24. pieces of Ordonance,) I imbarked in a Turkish Carmoesalo, that carried nothing but her loading, being bound for Rhodes. In our sayling along the coast of Ionia, the first place of any note I saw, was Ephesus decayed.the ruinous Citie of Ephesus; yet somewhat inhabited with Greekes, Jewes, and a few Turkes; but no waies answerable to its former glory and magnificence, being rather a monument for memory, then a continuing Towne of any excellency: neverthelesse it is pleasantly adorned with Gardens, faire fields, and greene woods of Olive trees, which on the Sea doe yeeld a delectable prospect: It was one of the seaven Churches, Revel. 2. 1. This [V. 175.]was one of the most renowned Cities in Asia the lesser but the same thereof arose from the Temple of Diana: which for the spaciousnesse, furniture, and magnificent workmanship was accounted one of the seven worlds wonders: It was two hundred yeares in building, being foure hundred twenty five foote long, and two hundred broad: It was seven severall times burnt, whereof the most part was with lightning, and lastly the finall destruction of it, came by a base fellow Erostratus, who to purchase himselfe a name, Dianaes Temple burnt.did set it on fire. Timothy was Bishop of Ephesus, to the people whereof, Saint Paul directed one of his Epistles, and finally it is famous for the buriall of Saint John the Evangelist: It was said of this place, in the Acts of the Apostles, that all Asia, and the whole world did worship here Diana: Tully reporteth, De natura Deorum, that Timæus being demanded the reason why the Temple of Diana was set on fire that night, when Alexander the great was borne: gave this jest thereof, that the Mistresse of it was from home; because she being the Goddesse of Midwives, did that night wait upon Olimpias the mother of Alexander the great, who was brought to bed in Macedonia.

The Ile Lango or Cuos.Over against this Citie is the Ile Lango, aunciently called Coos, wherein the great Hippocrates was borne, and Appelles, the Painter most excellent. It is both fertile, and populous, and of circuite above fourescore miles. There is a kind of Serpent said to be in it, so friendly unto the Inhabitants, that when the men are sleeping under the shadow of trees, they come cralling, and will lincke or claspe themselves about their neckes and bodies, without doing any harme, neither when they awake are the beasts affraid.

And neare to Lango, is the Ile Nixa, of old Strangoli; [V. 176.]and by some called Dronisa and Naxus, an Iland both fruitfull and delightfull. As we sailed by the West part of the Ile, a Greekish passenger shewed me the place, where (as he sayd) Ariadne was deceived of Theseus, which is not farre from the irriguate plaine of Darmille.

Continuing our Navigation, I saw the little Ile Ephdosh, where the Turkes told me, that all the Ilanders were Excellent swimmers.naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their great Lord the Turke, save onely once in the yeare there are certaine men, and women chosen by a Turkish Captaine, who must swimme a whole league right out in the Sea, and goe downe to the bottome of the waters, to fetch thence some token they have got ground: And if they shall happen to faile in this, the Iland will be reduced againe to pay him yearely rent. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed, there came a man and two women swimming to us, more then a mile of way, carrying with them (drie above the water) baskets of fruite to sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. For when they came to the ships side, they would neither boord, nor boat with us, but lay leaning, or as it were resting them selves on the sea, upon their one side, and sold so their fruits: keeping complements and discourses with us above an houre. Contenting them for their ware, and a fresh gale arising, we set forward, accoasting the little Ile of Samothracia.

Samothracia.This Ile of Samothracia, was called of old Dardania, and now by the Turkes Samandracho; a place of small note considering the quantity of the Ile, and the few number of Inhabitants: their lives being answerable to their meannes; ignorance and servitude; two strong commanders of infirme weaklings, and no lesse powerfull, then [V. 177.]they are debile in the debt of worthinesse; which the younglings of understanding, & sucklings of far look’d-to knowledge, can never be able to escape, although a true profession covereth many naturall imperfections; and in it a hope for blessednes, which indeed moe wish for, then rightly understand it. And upon the ninth day after our departure from Smyrna, we arrived at the City of Rhodes, so called of the Iland wherein it standeth.

Rhodes lieth in the Carpathian Sea. It was of old called The Ile of Rhodes.Ithrea, Telchino, and Phiula: Plinie saith it was called Rhodes, because there were certaine fields of Roses in it; for Rhodos in the Greeke tongue signifieth a Flower: Not farre from the City, and at the entery of the Haven, The Idoll Collossus.I saw the relicts of that huge, and admiredly erected Idoll, named Colossus Rhodius, or the mighty image of the Sunne; which was made in honour thereof: from the which Saint Paul termed the Inhabitants Collossians. It was builded by the worthy Canete Lindo in the space of twelve yeares: others have said, of Callasses the Disciple of Lisippus, taking the name Collossus of him, and it was thought worthy to be one of the seven earthly wonders, and so it might justly have beene: The quantity whereof (as yet) may amaze the minde of the beholder: It was erected in the Image of a man, being eighty cubits high, and so bigge, that the little finger of it was as bigge as an ordinary man: between whose legs, (it standing in the harbours mouth, with a legge on each side of the entery) Shippes were wont to passe under with taunt sayles: When Mnavi Generall of Caliph Osmen first united this Ile to the Mahometan Empire, and broke downe the greatest part of this statue; the brasse whereof was said to be so much that it loaded nine hundred Camells.

This Ile belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and [V. 178.]were then surnamed Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy Land; who were called Knights of St. John; who viriliously expulsed the Saracens from thence, Anno 1308. who had formerly taken it from the devided Grecians: These Knights sorely invested the Turkes for the space of two hundred yeares, till Solyman the magnificent, at last invaded and subdued it: The Rhodians were ever great friends to the Romanes, insomuch that when all the other Mediterranean Ilands revolted to Mithridates of Pontus, this onely adhered to the Romanes.

This Ile of Rhodes within the space of 25. yeares was three times mightily indangered by violent and extreame Inundation of waters.impetuosities of raine: in such sort that the last flood did drowne the greatest part of the Inhabitants: which beginning in the Spring-time, did continue to Summer, and in all this time, it broke violently downe their houses, and in the night killed the people lying in their beds; and in the day time such as were sheltered under safegard of their dwellings: which was a miserable destruction, and the like of it scarcely heard of since the universall deludge.

But true it is, as these ominous judgements falling upon particular parts & parcells of people, are justly executed; yet they serve for Caveats for all others in generall, (sinne being the originall of all) to take heed of offending the Creator, in abusing the best use of the Creature.

The Citie of Rhodes hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these Knights (Lilladamus Villiers being great Master, who were about five hundred onely, and five thousand Rhodians who asisted them) were besieged by an Armie of two hundred thousand Turkes, and three hundred Galleys, for the space of sixe months. The chiefe [V. 179.]obstacle, and impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was onely the resolute valour of the defendants. But in end multitude overmastring valour, and the Cavalieri di Rhodo, wanting furniture to their munition, and being penurious of victuals, were constrayned to render, upon the conditionall safety of their lives, goods, and transportation; and remained a long time without any habitation, till the King of Spaine gave them the barren Ile of Malta to inhabite: This Ile of Rhodes was lost by the Maltezes, Anno Dom. 1522. Rhodes taken by Solyman.And on Christmas day Solyman entred the Towne as conquerour, though he might justly have said (as Pyrhus once said of his victory over the Romanes) that such another victory would utterly have undone him; he lost so many of his bravest Commanders, and best Souldiers. It is ever since in the fruition of Turkes: The Fortresse of Rhodes, and that Fortresse Famogusta, in Cyprus, are the two strongest holds, in all the Empire of the great Turke.

And by the way here I must record, that if the great Turke, and his great Counsell, were not good pay-masters to their Janizaries, and speedy rewarders of their common Souldiers; it were impossible for him the Emperour, or them the Bassawes to menage so great a state, and to keepe under obedience so head-strong a multitude, & such turbulent forces: for by your leave, Souldiers should be regarded & rewarded.if a Souldiers industry be not quickned and animated with bountifull rewards; he hath lesse will to performe any part of Martiall service; then a dead coarse hath power to arise out of the grave: for what can be more precious to man, then his blood, being the fountaine & nurse of his vitall spirits, & the ground of his bodily substance; which no free or ingenious nature wil hazard to lose for nothing.

[V. 180.]And whosoever shall argument or discourse upon sound reason, and infallible experience, may easily prove and perceive, that these Commanders have ever best prospered, which have most liberally maintayned, and had in singular regard, Military Arts and Souldiers; otherwise the honourable mind, would account it a great deale better to have death without life, then life without reward: yea, and the noble Commander, desiring rather to want, then to suffer worth unrecompensed.

Rhodes joyneth neare to the continent, over against Caria, now called Carmania, under which name the Turkes comprehend Pamphilia, Ionia, and Lycia: Caria by the Sea side, hath Lycia to the South, and Caria to the North: The chiefe Cities are Manissa, and Mindum, which having great gates, being but a small Towne, made Diogenes the Cynick crie out. Yee Citizens of Mindum, take heed, that your City run not out of your gates: The third is Hallicarnasso, where Dionisius was borne, who writ the History of Rome for the first three hundred yeares: Of which Towne also the Province tooke the name; for Artemisia, who ayded Xerxes against the Grecians, was by some Authors named Queene of Hallicarnasso. This was she, Mausolaos Tombe.who in honour of her husband Mausolao, built that curious Sepulcher, accounted for one of the worlds wonders; it being twenty five cubits high, and supported with thirty sixe admirable wrought pillars.

After I had contented the Master for my fraught, and victuals (who as he was an Infidell, used me with great exaction) I found a Barke of the Arches purposed to Cyprus, with the which I imbarked, being foure hundred miles distant.

This Tartareta, or Demi galleyeot, belonged to the Ile of Stagiro, aunciently Thasia, wherein there were [V. 181.]mines of gold, in these times that afforded yearely to Philip King of Macedon, about fourescore talents of gold, but now mightily impoverished and of no consequence: The chiefe Towne whereof is Palmapreto, where diverse Greekes hold the opinion, Homer was interred, having a famous Sea-port, which is a common resting place for all the Orientall Pirats or Cursaroes; which maketh the Ile halfe desolate of people; and these few scarce worthy of their dwellings.

Pamphilia & Lycia.Having past the gulfe of Sattelia, and the Ile Carpathia, whence that part of the Sea taketh his name: we boorded close along the coast of Lycia, and the firme land of fruitfull Pamphilia; the chiefe Citie of Lycia is Patras, watred with the river Zanthus, whence the people were called Zanthi, afterward Lycians of Lycus sonne to Pandion: It lieth twixt Caria and Pamphilia, as Pamphilia lyeth betweene it and Cilicia: The chiefe Towne in Pamphilia is Seleucia, built by Seleucus, one of Alexanders successours: on the East of Lycia within land bordreth Lycaonia, &c. Having left Pamphilia behind us, we fetched up the coast of Cylicia, sustaining many great dangers, both of tempestuous stormes, and invasions of damnable Pirats, who gave us divers assaults to their owne disadvantages; our saylage being swifter, then either their swallowing desires could follow, or our weake and inresolute defence could resist.

Here in this Countrey of Cilicia, was Saint Paul borne in the now decayed Towne of Tharsus, who for antiquity will not succumbe to any City of Natolia, being as yet the Mistresse of that Province, though neither for worth, nor wealth.

Twelve dayes was I betweene Rhodes and Limisse in The description of Cyprus.Cyprus; where arrived, I received more gracious demonstrations from the Ilanders, then I could hope for, or wish, being farre beyond my merit or expectation; onely contenting my curiosity with a quiet mind, I redounded thankes for my imbraced courtesies.

The people are generally strong and nimble, of great civility, hospitality to their neighbours, and exceedingly affectionated to strangers. The second day after my arrival, I tooke with me an Interpreter, and went to see Nicosia, which is placed in the midst of the Kingdome. But in my journey thither, extreame was the heate and thirst I endured; both in respect of the season, and also want of water: And although I had with me sufficiency of Wine, yet durst I drinke none thereof, being so strong, and withall had a tast of pitch; and that is, because they have no barrels, but great Jarres made of earth, wherein their Wine is put. And these Jarres are all inclosed within the ground save onely their mouthes, which stand alwayes open like to a Source or Cisterne; whose insides are all interlarded with pitch to preserve the earthen vessells unbroke a sunder, in regard of the forcible Wine; yet making the taste thereof unpleasant to liquorous lips; and turneth the Wine, too headdy for the braine in digestion, which for health groweth difficult to strangers; and to themselves a swallowing up of diseases.

Nicosia is the principall Citie of Cyprus, and is invironed with mountaines, like unto Florence in Ætruria; The sixe Cities of Cyprus.wherein the Beglerbeg remaineth: The second is Famegusta, the chiefe strength and Sea-port in it: Selina, Lemisso, Paphos, and Fontana Morosa, are the other foure speciall Townes in the Iland.

This Ile of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, Amatusa, and by some Marchara, that is happy: It is of length extending from East to West, 210. large 60. and of circuit 600. miles. It yeeldeth infinite canes of Sugar, Cotten-wooll, Oyle, Honney, Cornes, Turpentine, Allum, Verdegreece, Grogranes, store of Mettals and Salt; besides all other sorts of fruit and commodities in abundance. It was also named Cerastis, because it butted toward the East with one horne: and lastly Cyprus, from the abundance of Cypresse trees there growing. This Iland was consecrated to Venus, where in Paphos she was greatly honoured, termed hence, Dea Cypri,

Cyprus lyeth in the gulfe betweene Cilicia and Syria, having Ægypt to the West: Syria to the South: Cilicia to the East: and the Pamphilian Sea to the North: It hath foure chiefe Capes or headlands: first, Westward the Promontore of Acanias, modernely Capo di Santo Epifanio: to the South the Promontore Phæuria, now Capo Bianco: to the East Pedasia, modernely Capo di [V. 184.]Greco: to the North, the high foreland of Cramineon, now Capo di Cormathita: these foure are the chiefest Promontores of the Iland, and Cape di S. Andrea is the furthest poynt Eastward toward Cilicia: Diodore and Pliny say that anciently it contained nine Kingdomes, and fifteene good Townes: Cerania, now Selina, was built by Cyrus, who subdued the nine petty Kings of this Ile: Nicosia is situate in the bottome or plaine of Massara, and thirty foure miles from Famagusta; and the Towne of Famagusta was formerly named Salamus: I was informed by some of sound experience here, that this Kingdome containeth about eight hundreth and forty Villages, besides the sixe capitall Townes, two whereof are nothing inferiour for greatnesse and populosity to the best Townes in Candy, Sicily, or Greece.

Trohodos a huge hill in Cyprus.The chiefest and highest mountaine in this Ile, is by the Cypriots called Trohodos, it is of height eight, and of compasse forty eight miles, whereon there are a number of Religious Monasteries, the people whereof are called Colieros, and live under the order of Saint Basile. There is abundance here of Coriander seede, with medicinable Reubarbe, and Turpentine. Here are also mines of gold in it, of Chrysocole, of Calthante, of Allome, Iron, and exceeding good Copper. And besides these mines, there are diverse precious stones found in this Ile, as Emeraulds, Diamonds, Chrystall, Corall, red and white, and the admirable stone Amiante, whereof they make Linnen cloth, that will not burne being cast into the fire, but serveth to make it neate and white.

The greatest imperfection of this Ile, is scarcity of water, and too much plenty of scorching heate, and fabulous grounds. The Inhabitants are very civill, courteous, and affable; and notwithstanding of their [V. 185.]delicious and delicate fare, they are much subject to Melancholy, of a Robust nature, and good Warriours, if they might carry Armes: It is recorded, that in the time of Constantine the Great, this Ile was all uterly abandoned of the Inhabitants, and that because it did not raine for the space of sixe and thirty yeares. After which time, and to Cyprus replanted.replant this Region againe, the chiefest Colonies came from Ægypt, Judea, Syria, Cilicia, Pamphilia, Thracia, and certaine Territories of Greece: And it is thought, in the yeares 1163. after that Guy of Lusingham, the last Christian King of Jerusalem had lost the Holy Land, a number of French men, stayed and inhabited here; of whom sprung the greatest race of the Cyprian Gentility; and so from them are discended the greatest Families of the Phenician Sydonians, modernely Drusians: though ill divided, and worse declined; yet they are sprung both from one Originall: the distraction arising from Conscience of Religion, the one a Christian, the other a Turke.

The three Iles of Cyprus, Candy, and Sicily, are the onely Monarchicke Queenes of the Mediterranean Seas: Comparisons of Iles.and semblable to other in fertility, length, breadth, and circuit: save onely Candy that is somewhat more narrow then the other two, and also more Hilly and sassinous: yet for Oyles and Wines, she is the Mother of both the other: Sicily being for Graine and Silkes the Empresse of all: and Cyprus for Sugar and Cotton-wooll, a darling sister to both; onely Sicily being the most civill Ile, and nobly gentilitat, the Cypriots indifferently good, and the Candiots the most ruvid of all.

The chiefe Rivers are Teno, and Pedesco: Cyprus was first by Teucer made a Kingdome, who after the Trojane Warre came and dwelt here: and afterward being divided [V. 186.]betweene nine petty Princes, it was subdued by Cyrus, the first Monarch of the Meedes and Persians. After the subversion of which Empire, this Ile was given to the Potolomies of Ægypt: from whom Cato conquered it to the benefit of the Romans. The Dukes of Savoy were Kings of Cyprus.The Dukes of Savoy were once Kings of Cyprus; but the Inhabitants usurping their authority, elected Kings to themselves, of their owne generation: and so it continued, till the last King of Cyprus, James the Bastard (marrying with the daughter of a noble Venetian, Catherina Cornaro) died without children, leaving her his absolute heire. And she perceiving the factious Nobility, too headstrong to be bridled by a female authority, like a good child, resigned her Crowne and Scepter to the Venetian Senate, Anno 1473. Whereupon the Venetians imbracing the opportunitie of time, brought her home, and sent Governours thither to beare sway in their behalfe; paying onely as tribute to the Ægyptian Sultans 40000. Crownes, which had been due ever since Melecksala, had made John of Cyprus his tributary.

It was under their Jurisdiction 120. yeares and more; till that the Turkes, who ever oppose themselves against Christians (finding a fit occasion in time of peace, and without suspition in the Venetians) tooke it in with a great Armado. Anno 1570. and so till this day by them is detayned. Oh great pitty! that the usurpers of Gods word, and the worlds great enemy, should maintaine (without feare) that famous Kingdome, being but one thousand & fifty Turkes in all, who are the keepers of it: unspeakable is the calamitie of that poore afflicted Christian people under the terrour of these Infidels; who would, if they had Armes, or asistance of any Christian Potentate, easily subvert and abolish the Turkes, without [V. 187.]any disturbance; yea, and would render the whole Signiory thereof to such a noble Actor. I doe not see in that small judgement, which by experience I have got, but the redemption of that Countrey were most facile; if that the generous heart of any Christian Prince, would be moved with condigne compassion to relieve the miserable aflicted Inhabitants. In which worke, he should reape (questionlesse) not onely an infinite treasure of Worldly commodities, that followeth upon so great a conquest, but also a heavenly and eternall reward of immortall glory. The Florentines attempted to conquer Cyprus.The which deliverance Ferdinando Duke of Florence, thought to have accomplished (having purchased the good will of the Ilanders) with five Gallounes, and 5000. Souldiers: Who being mindfull to take first in the Fortresse of Famogusta, directed so their course, that in the night, they should have entred the Haven, disbarke their men, and scale the walles.

But in this plot they were farre disappointed by an unhappy Pilot of the Vice-admirall, who mistaking the Port, went into a wrong bay: which the Florentines considering, resolved to returne, and keepe the sea, till the second night; but by a dead calme, they were frustrated of their aymes, and on the morrow discovered by the Castle: Whereupon the Turkes went presently to armes, & charged the Inhabitants to come to defend that place: But about foure hundred Greekes in the West part, at Paphos, rebelled; thinking that time had altered their hard fortunes, by a new change: but alas, they were prevented, & every one cut off by the bloody hands of the Turkes. This massacre was committed in the yeare 1607. Such alwaies are the torturing flames of Fortunes smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most, and altogether deceiveth: But they who trust in the Lord, shall be as [V. 188.]stable as Mount Syon, which cannot be removed; and questionlesse, one day God, in his all-eternall mercie, will relieve their miseries, and in his just judgements, recompence these bloody oppressors with the heavy vengeance of his all-seeing Justice.

In my returne from Nicosia, to Famogusta, with my Trench-man, we encountered by the way with foure Turkes, who needs would have my Mule to ride upon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a revenge, pulled me by thee heeles from the Mules backe, beating me most pittifully, and left me almost for dead. In this meanewhile my companion fled, and escaped the sceleratnesse of their hands; and if it had not beene for some compassionable Greekes, who by accident came by, and relieved me, I had doubtlesse immediately perished.

Here I remember betweene this Ile and Sydon that same Summer, there were five galleouns of the Duke of A sea cumbat.Florence, who encountred by chance the Turkes great Armado consisting of 100. gallies, 14. galleots, and two galleasses: The Admirall of which ships did single out her selfe from the rest, and offered to fight with the whole Armado alone; but the Turkes durst not, and in their flying backe, the Admirall sunke two of their gallies; and had almost seazed upon one of their galleasses, if it had not beene for 20. gallies, who desperatly adventured to row her away against the wind and so escaped.

For true it is, the naturall Turkes were never skilfull in menaging of Sea battells, neither are they expert Mariners, nor experimented Gunners, if it were not for our Christian Runnagates, French, English, and Flemings, and they too sublime, accurate, and desperate fellowes; who have taught the Turkes the airt of navigation, and especially the use of munition; which they both cast to [V. 189.]them, & then become their chiefe Cannoniers; the Turkes would be as weake and ignorant at sea, as the silly Æthiopian, is unexpert in handling of armes on the Land. Christiane Runagates.For the private humour of discontented castawayes is alwaies an enemy to publicke good, who from the society of true beleevers, are driven to the servitude of Infidells, and refusing the bridle of Christian correction, they receive the double yoake of dispaire and condemnation. Whose terrour of a guilty conscience, or rather blazing brand of their vexed soules, in forsaking their Faith, and denying Christ to be their Saviour, ramverts most of them, either over in a torment of melancholy, otherwise in the extasie of madnesse: which indeed is a torturing horrour, that is sooner felt then knowne; and cannot be avoided by the rudenesse of nature, but by the saving grace of true felicity.

The City of Tripoly.From the Fort and City Famogusta, I imbarked in a Germo, and arrived at Tripoly being 88. miles distant, where I met with an English ship called the Royall Exchange of London, lying there at Anker in the dangerous Road of Tripoly, whose loves I cannot easily forget, for at my last good night, being after great cheare, and greater carrousing, they gave me the thundring farewell of three pieces of Ordonance. Tripoly is a City in Syria, standing a mile from the marine side, neere to the foot of Mount Libanus: since it hath beene first founded, it hath three times beene situated, and removed in three sundry places: First it was overwhelmed with water: Secondly, it was sacked with Cursares, and Pirates: Thirdly, it is like now to be overthrowne with new made mountaines of sand: There is no haven by many miles neere unto it, but a dangerous roade, where often when Northerly winds blow, ships are cast away.

[V. 190.]Scanderona.The great Traffique which now is at this place, was formerly at Scanderona or Alexandretta, a little more Eastward; but by reason of the infectious ayre, that corrupted the bloud of strangers, proceeding of two high Mountaines; who are supposed to be a part of Mount Caucasus, which withhold the prospect of the Sunne from the In-dwellers, more then three howers in the morning. So that in my knowledge, I have knowne dye in one ship, and a moneths time, twenty Marriners: for this cause the Christian ships were glad to have their commodities brought to Tripoly, which is a more wholesome and convenient place.

The dayly interrogation I had here, for a Carravans departure to Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindfull to visite Babylon: In this my expectation I tooke purpose, with three Venetian Merchants, to go see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a dayes journey thither. As we ascended upon the mountaine, our ignorant guide mistaking the way, brought us in a Laborinth of dangers; Insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of Rockes: two of our Asses fell over a banke, and broke their neckes: And if it had not bene for a Christian Amaronite, who accidently encountred with us, in our wilesome wandring, we had bene miserably lost: both in regard of Rockes, and heapes of snow we passed; and also of great Torrents, which fell downe with force, from the steepy tops: wherein one of these Merchants was twice almost drowned. When we arrived The Cedars of Libanus.to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but twenty foure of all, growing after the manner of Oke-trees, but a great deale taler, straighter, and greater, and the braunches grow so straight, and interlocking as though they were kept by Arte. And yet from the Roote to the [V. 191.]toppe they beare no boughes, but grow straight upward, like to a Palme-tree; who as may-poles invelope the ayre, so their circle spred tops, do kisse or enhance the lower cloudes; making their grandure over-looke the highest bodies of all other aspiring trees: and like Monarchick Lyons to wild beasts, they become the chiefe Champions of Forrests and Woods.

Although that in the dayes of Salomon, this mountaine was over-clad with Forrests of Cedars, yet now there are but onely these, and nine miles Westward thence, seventeene more. The nature of that tree is alwayes greene, yeelding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent kind of fruite like unto Apples, but of a sweeter taste, and more wholesome in digestion. The Rootes of some of these Cedars are almost destroyed by Sheepheards, who have made fires thereat, and holes wherein they sleepe; yet neverthelesse they flourish greene above in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountaine is about forty miles, reaching from the West, to the East: and continually, Summer and Winter, reserveth Snow on the tops. It is also beautified with all the ornaments of nature, as Herbage, Tillage, Pastorage, Fructiferous Trees, fine Fountaines, good Cornes, and absolutely the best Wine that is bred on the earth. The Prince of Libanus.The Signior thereof is a Freeholder, by birth a Turke, and will not acknowledge any superiour, being the youngest sonne of the Emeere or Prince of Sidon, who when his Father revolted against Achmet, and not being able to make his owne part good, fled into Italy, to the Duke of Florence: And notwithstanding that the elder brother yeelded up Sidon, and became a pardond subject to the great Turke: yet this the other brother would never yeeld nor surrender, himselfe, the Fort, nor the Signiory of Libanus: The olde [V. 192.]Prince his father after two yeares exile, was restored againe to his Emperours favour; with whom in my second Travels, both at Lygorne and Messina in Sicilee, I rancountred: whence the Duke of Sona that Kingdomes Viceroy, caused transport him on a stately ship for the Levant to Sidon: The Sidonians or Drusians, were first of all French men, who after their expulsion from Jerusalem, fled hither to the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim, now called Phenicia, as I shall make more cleere afterwards.

The most part of the inhabited villages are Christians, Nestorians.called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans, and are governed by their owne Patriarke. There are none at this day, do speake the Syriack tongue, save onely these people of mount Libanus; and in that language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The kinde Amaronite whom we met, and tooke with us for our best guide, in descending from the Cedars shewed us many caves and Holes in Rockes, where Coliers, religious Siriens and Amaronites abide: Amongst these austere Cottages, I saw Joshuas Tombe.a faire Tombe all of one stone, being 17. foote of length; which (as he said) was the Sepulcher of the valiant Joshua, who conducted the people of Israel to the land of promise.

The Mahometans esteeme this to be a holy place, and many resort to it in Pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanicall Prayers to Mahomet. I saw upon this Mountaine, a sort of fruite, called Amazza Franchi: that is, The death of Christians; because when Italians, and others of Europe, eate any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloudy fluxe, or else ingender some other pestilentious fever, whereof they dye.

The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine us at his [V. 193.]house; so did also all the Amaronites of the other Villages, who met us in our way before we came to their Townes, and brought presents with them of Bread, Wine, Figges, Olives, Sallets, Capons, Egges, and such like, as they could on a sudden provide.

The Bishop of Eden on Libanus.This Bishop or Patriarkes house, is joyned with and hembd in, within the face of an high Rocke, that serveth for three sides thereof, the fore and fourth part being onely of Mason-worke: Neare unto which falleth precipitatly a great Torrent over the sassinous banke, that maketh a greivous noyse night and day: which as I told him, me thought it should turne the Bishop Surdo or starke deafe: But the homely and simple man (not puft with ambition greed, and glorious apparrell, like to our proud Prelats of Christendome) told me, that continuall custome brought him to despose upon the day, and sleepe better in the night, because of the sounding waters. Where reposing with him one night, my Muse the next morning saluted Libanus with these lines.

The Nestorian paradice.About the Village of Eden, is the most fruitfull part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delicious fruits. True it is, the variety of these things, maketh the silly people thinke, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegeance, they approve the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion with these arguments, that Mount Libanus is sequestrate from the circum-jacent Regions, and is invincible for the height, and strengths they have in Rocks; and that Eden was still reedified by the fugitive Inhabitants, when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirme before the deluge it was so nominate, and after the flood it was repaired againe by Japhet, the sonne of Noah, who builded Joppa, or Japhta in Palestina. Loe there are the reasons they shew strangers for such like informations.

The Georgians Paradice.

There are with this one, other two supposed places of the earthly Paradice: The one is by the Turkes, and some ignorant Georgians, holden to be at Damascus, for the beauty of faire fields, gardens, and excellent fruits there; [V. 195.]especially for the tree called The Tree Mouslee.Mouslee, which they beleeve hath growne there since the beginning of the world. Indeed it is a rare and singular tree, for I saw it at Damascus, and others also of the same kind, upon Nylus in Ægypt: The growth whereof is strange: for every yeare in September it is cut downe hard by the roote, and in five moneths the tree buddeth up a pace againe, bringing forth leaves, flowers, and fruite. The leafe thereof is of such a breadth, that three men may easily stand under the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger then a foot-ball, which is yearely transported for Constantinople to the great Turke; and there is reserved for a relict of the fruit of the forbidden tree; whence he surstyles himselfe keeper of the earthly Paradice.

But if he were not surer a greater commander and reserver of a large part of the best bosome of the earth, than he is keeper of that Adamian Garden; his styles of the earth, and mine of the world, were both alike, and that were just nothing, save onely this, two naked creatures living amongst naked people: or otherwise, if it were to be kept or seene, certainely I would wish to be a Postillion, to the great Porter, the Turke, but not his Pedagog, farre lesse his Pilgrime.

The Chelfane Paradice.The third place by the Chelfaines, is thought to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, neere to the joyning of Tygris, and Euphrates; where, so they inhabite: I have oft required of these Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceived opinion: who answered me, they received it from time to time, by the tradition of their Ancestors: And because of the river Euphrates, and other rivers mentioned in the Scriptures, which to this day, detayne their names in that Countrey. Some hold, that Garden of Eden extended over all the earth. But contrariwise, [V. 196.]it manifestly appeareth by the second Chapter of Genesis, 2. 20. that this garden, that we call Paradice, wherein Adam was put to dresse it, was a certaine place on earth, containing a particular portion of a Countrey, called Eden, which boundeth on the river Euphrates. To this, and all the rest, I answer, no certainty can be had of the place where Eden was, either by reading or travelling, because this river hath beene oft divided in sundry streames: And it is said, that Cyrus, when he wonne Babylon, did turne the maine channell of Euphrates to another course. But howsoever, or wheresoever it be, I resolve my selfe, no man can demonstrate the place, which God for the sinnes and fall of man, did not onely accurse; but also the whole face of the earth.

Many ancient Authors have agreed with the opinion of Plato and Aristotle, constantly affirming, that mountaines, Ilands, and Countries, have received great alteration by Violence of Seas & waters.the inundation of Rivers, and violence of raging Seas. Thracia, hath beene divided from Bithinia: Nigroponti, from Thessalia: Corfu, from Epire: Sicilia, from Italy: The Iles Orcades, from Scotland, and many other Ilands, and Countries cut through so in divisions after the same forme. Wherefore the more a man contemplate to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high misteries (appertaining onely to the Creator) the more he shall faile in his purpose, offend God, become foolish, and fantasticall for his paines.

But to turne backe to mine itinerary relation, after my returne to Tripoly, I departed thence Eastward, with a Caravan of Turkes to Aleppo, being ten dayes journey distant. In all this way (leaving Scanderon on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking; save onely a few scattered Villages, and poore miserable people called Turcomani, living in Tents, and following their flockes [V. 197.]to whom I payed sundry Caffars who remove their women, children, and cattell where so they finde fountaines, and good pastorage: like unto the custome of the ancient Israelites: Which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainely demonstrate the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure they had, or could have in their living.

They differ also in Religion from all the other Mahometans in two damnable points: The Turcomans opinion of God & the Divell.The one is, they acknowledge, that there is a God, and that he of him selfe is so gracious, that he neither can, being essentially good doe harme, nor yet will authorize any ill to be done, and therefore more to be loved than feared: The other is, they confesse there is a Divell, and that he is a tormentor of all evill doers: and of himselfe so terrible and wicked, that they are contented even for acquisting his favour and kindnesse, to sacrifice in fire their first borne child to him: soliciting his divellishnes, not to torment them too sore when they shall come into his hands: And yet for all this, they thinke afterwards by the mercy of Mahomet, they shall goe from hell to Paradice.

In this immediate or aforesayd passage, we coasted neare and within sixe miles of the limits of Antiochia, Antiochians the first Christians.one of the ancient Patriarch seas; so called of Antiochus her first founder, and not a little glorying to this day, that the Disciples of Jesus and Antiochians were first here named Christians. Who (nothwithstanding) of their grievous afflictions flourished so that in 40. yeares they grew a terrour to their enemies; who suggested by the Divell cruelly afflicted them with ten generall persecutions, under the Emperours, Nero anno 67. Domitianus, anno 96, Trajanus, 100. Maximinius, 137. Marcus Antonius, [V. 198.]167. Severus, 195. Decius, 250. Valerianus, 259. Aurelianus, 278. and Dioclesian anno 293. yeares. Notwithstanding all which massacres and martyrdome, yet this little graine of Mustard seed, planted by Gods owne hand, and watered with the blood of so many holy Saints, (Nam sanguis Martirum, semen Ecclesiæ est) grew so great a tree, that the branches thereof were dispersed through every City, and Province of the whole world.

Before my arrivall in Aleppo, the Caravan of Babylon was from thence departed, which bred no small griefe in my breast: The Venetian Consull, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants, (having had some insight of my intended voyage) informed me, that the Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates, for some conceived report they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the desarts, and willed me to hire a Janisary, and three Souldiers to overhye them; whose counsell I received, Frustrate of Babylon.But was meerely frustrated of my designes. True it was, they staied, but were gone three dayes before my comming to that unhappy place.

The distance from whence over land to Babylon, or Bagdat, being but sixe small or short dayes journey, the losse whereof and the damnable deceit of my Janizary made my Muse to expresse, what my sorrowfull Prose can not performe.