THE
GARDENS OF THE SUN:
Title: The Gardens of the Sun
Author: F. W. Burbidge
Release date: March 11, 2020 [eBook #61599]
Most recently updated: October 17, 2024
Language: English
Credits: Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project
Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously
made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
This record of a time spent among the less well-known portions of Malaysia may be interesting to those whom the goddess of travel has wooed in vain, as perchance to some of those “birds of passage” to whom the islands and continents of the world are as well known as the church-spires and mile-stones of their own land. In the islands of the Malay archipelago—the Gardens of the Sun—Nature is ever beautiful, and man, although often strikingly primitive, is hospitable to the stranger, and not often vile.
A voyage of a few weeks brings us to these beauty-spots of the Eastern Seas—to an “always-afternoon” kind of climate—since they are blessed with the heat and glory of eternal summer—to a place where winter is unknown—monsoon-swept islands oasis-like basking in a warm and shallow desert of sea. Warmed by perpetual sunshine, deluged by copious rains, and thrilled by electricity, they are really enormous conservatories of beautiful vegetation—great Zoological Gardens inhabited by rare birds and curious animals. In these sunny garden scenes man is the Adam of a modern Eden, primitive in habits and numerically insignificant; he has scarcely begun his battle with things inanimate, or his struggle for existence as it is known to us. At home we have man as in some sort the master of Nature, but in the Bornean forests Nature still reigns supreme. Here with us man wrests his sustenance from her—there she is lavish in the bestowal of gifts unsought.
The immediate future of an island larger in area than Great Britain cannot fail to be of interest to political thinkers, especially to those who belong to the “scientific frontier” school. Malay Government is weaker now than it was even at the time Sir James Brooke received Sarawak, and the aid of our own Government is now being sought in favour of the cession of the whole of Northern Borneo—from Gaya Bay to Sabuco—to a public company! Unaided by England, Borneo seems likely to suffer in two ways—either to be annexed by the Government of Manilla, or else to fall into the hands of the promoters of public companies. The Sulu Archipelago has already thus lost its independence; and the question which now suggests itself is, What will England do with her foster-colony, Borneo the Beautiful?
Borneo offers to the student of nature an ever-interesting field for research and study. The local government is very peculiar and interesting. Every village of any pretensions has its “Orang Kaya,” or head man, and his house is at the service of the passing stranger. In any matter of dispute he may be referred to, and my own experience of these petty rulers was on the whole very satisfactory. I found them honest and just in their advice, although at times a little grasping in their bargains.
The ease with which food is obtained in such a tropical land is of course inimical to any great exertion or progress on the part of the natives. That most generous of all food-giving plants, the Banana, is everywhere naturalised in Borneo up to an altitude of 3000 feet. It fruits all the year, its produce being to that of wheat as 133:1, and to that of the potato as 44:1. With rice and a few esculent roots, all easily grown, it gives a profusion of food at a slight expenditure of labour—labour for the most part performed by the women. The Malays of Borneo are morally far inferior to the inland tribes; and, wherever it is possible to them, live in voluptuous ease.
Borneo is the home of the “Orang-utan,” or “wild man of the woods,” an animal which, with its African relative, the “Gorilla,” has occupied the attention of so many of the first thinkers of our time. Here, in its native forests, this large man-like ape lives in the great natural orchards, swinging itself from bough to bough with its peculiarly long arms, building its platform or nest of leafy branches, and eating its meal of fruit in peace. “Let any naturalist,” says a modern observer, “who is prejudiced against the Darwinian views go to the forests of Borneo. Let him there watch from day to day this strangely human form in all its various phases of existence. Let him see it climb, walk, build its nest, eat, and drink, and fight. Let him see the female suckle her young and carry it astride her hip precisely as do the Coolie women of Hindostan. Let him witness the human-like emotions of affection, satisfaction, pain, and childish rage. Let him see all this, and then he may feel how much more potent has been this lesson than all he has read in pages of abstract ratiocination.” After all, the Orang-utan is a poor creature, with but an outer resemblance to the human species. In intelligence he is not only far below the lowest savage, but even inferior to the horse or the dog. No amount of teaching will make the Orang-utan or any other ape practically useful to man. Do all we can for them in a state of confinement, they are simply big helpless monkeys to the last!
The avifauna of the island is very rich. Its pheasants rival those of China in beauty. The great hornbills abound in the fruit groves, and are giants in comparison with their representatives the toucans of South America. Here the humming-birds of the new world are amply represented by the sun-birds. Mound-building megapodia are common, their earth-works rivalling those of the termites; and the edible nest-making swallow works in its dark cave dwellings to satisfy the epicurean tastes of those Eastern aldermen, the mandarins of the Celestial Empire. One peculiar species of kingfisher always makes its nest in company with that of a colony of wild bees. Its young may be fed on the young larvae, or perchance the company of the bees may be courted for the sake of their protection in the event of the nest being attacked.
Amongst my own introductions to European gardens is a singular species of pitcher plant or nepenthes, the urns of which are armed with two sharp and strong spines (see p. 341). Its pitchers always contain insects of various kinds, and I am convinced that the spines are present to prevent birds and insect-hunting animals such as the tarsier from removing these insects from the urns. The stalk of this nepenthes is swollen quite near to the pitcher in a singular manner, and is there punctured by a peculiar species of ant, but I could never satisfactorily account for their presence, unless it be in search of water.
Beccari, during his travels in Borneo, discovered a singular plant—Myrmecodia—parasitic on low jungle trees. Its economy is most interesting. The young seedlings, when about an inch in height, are punctured or bitten by an ant, an operation which causes the stem to become gouty and eventually hollow; in fact, a natural living hive in which the ants then shelter themselves. This is their own gain, and they in turn rush out to resent any attack which may be made on their living nest. A case analogous to this of mutual protection is recorded of an African species of acacia. The most singular thing in connection with this co-operative affair is that unless the young seedling plants are bitten in due course they are said by Beccari to die. I saw this plant daily for a long period, and often amused myself by attacking it in order to see how invariably the ants rushed out in force to repel the intruder. I also noted many young seedlings both living and dead, but of my own knowledge could scarcely venture so far as to say that the dead ones had succumbed owing to the ants having neglected to bite them!
An account of some of the more remarkable of my discoveries and introductions may be found in the Appendix to this volume, p. 339.
In conclusion, I may be allowed to say that the far interior of Borneo still remains to be explored. It is emphatically a wild land without roads or bridges, and a march right across the island from the north-east to the north-west coast, although a formidable undertaking, would if accomplished reveal much that is at present unknown.
CHAPTER I.
EASTWARD, HO! PAGE
Gibraltar—Port Said—Suez Canal—Kantara—Aden—Life Afloat—Floating Homes 1
CHAPTER II.
Hotels—Singapore—An Eastern Port—A Tropical Island—Chinese Settlers—Chinese Play—Tropical Night—Climate 14
CHAPTER III.
On the way—Gambling—River-travel—In the forest—Vegetation—A resting-place—Tropical fruits—Breed of dogs—On the summit—Wild animals—Wild men—Sale of women 31
CHAPTER IV.
A Sea-snake—A dreary landing—Native dancing—Orchids at home—Tropical flowers—The jungle leech—A bad dinner—Rough paths—The blow-pipe—Head-hunting—A Murut reception 47
CHAPTER V.
KINA BALU, OR CHINESE WIDOW MOUNTAIN.
Journey to Kina Balu—Visit to Pangeran Rau—Agricultural implements—Sea gipsies—Datu of the Badjows—Musa—Fertile plain—River-side gardens—Women gardeners—Fording the Tawaran—Bawang—Good scenery—Si Nilau—Kalawat—Rat-traps—A wet journey—Bungol—Koung village—Native traders—Rice culture—Kiau—Hiring of guides—Ascent of Kina Balu—A curious breakfast—Rare plants en route—Mountain flowers—Large pitcher plants—A cave dwelling—Scarcity of water—Mountain orchids—Cool climate—Slippery descent—Lost in the forest—Return to Kiau—Native produce—Journey to Marie Parie Spur—Return to the coast—Native women of the interior—Hire of native boat—Return to Labuan 77
CHAPTER VI.
Labuan—Inhabitants—Industries—Coal mines—Revenues and acreage—Oil spring—Climate—Rare ferns—Tropical flowering trees—Fruit culture—Birds—Pitcher plants—Snakes—Sun birds—Large spiders—Ants—Salt making—Pratchan—Old gardens—Lizards—Mason wasp—A favourite horse—Annual games on the plain—Church—River travel 114
CHAPTER VII.
Borneo—Wild animals—The Malays—Poetry—Romances—Dewa Indra—Native government—Pile dwellings—Intermarriage—Language—Clothing—Courtship—Marriage—Inland tribes—Land culture—Native villages—Food products—Textile fabrics—Bark cloth—Native women—Climate—Native produce—Kayan weapon—Rivers—Gambling—Opium smoking 139
CHAPTER VIII.
Brunei the capital—Market Chinese traders—Gun foundry—The Istana—Weak government—The Sultan Moumein—Native jewellery—Native smithy—Public executions—Punishment for robbery—Sago factories—Inter-marriage—Morality—Old mission church—Boat journey inland—Murut hospitality—Canoe travel—Forest travel—New aroids—Native insects—Day flying moths—River travel by moonlight—Sago-washing station 161
CHAPTER IX.
Sulu Archipelago—Long drought—Jungle fires—Sandakan—Good water supply—Insects and birds—How an alligator was utilised—A boat excursion—Visit to the shore—A Chinese trader—Chinese hospitality—Slavery—A walk by the river—Manilla hemp—Native tombs—Frangipane, or the “dead man’s flower”—Rough walking—Interesting birds 183
CHAPTER X.
A royal boar-hunt—The Sultan of the Sulus—Sultana and ladies of the Court—Sulu costume and arms—Fine breed of ponies—Rough ground—Pig-sticking—Food for the dogs—A pleasing sight—Invitation to the Istana—Datu Mahomed—The Sulu “Prince of Wales”—Curious saddles—Pony racing—Meimbong stream—Pleasant evening light—Birds—Large bats—Abundance of butterflies—Fine fish—Good angling—The “Hill of Tears”—Sugh, the old capital—Market at Meimbong—Tobacco—Native produce—Chain armour—Chinese settlers 193
CHAPTER XI.
THE SULTAN’S ISTANA AND THE “HILL OF TEARS.”
A moonlight ride—A fragrant weed—The Istana—Modern armament—“Gelah”—Royal hospitality—A social servant—The Sultan—State sword or “Barong”—A Sulu dinner—A long audience—Curiosity of the ladies—Departure to the mountain—A newly-made grave—Orchids at home—A treat for our cattle—Rough climbing—Ferns and mosses—The summit—Good views—Old traditions of the mountain—A picnic under cocoanut palms—“Gelah” v. Hennessy—Return to the Istana—Further audience of the Sultan—Former civilisation—Carved wood-work—Old manufactures—Old enemies—Physique of the Sulus—A pearl among the swine—Market-people—Slavery—Language—Land culture—Native food products—Domestic animals—Sea fruit 207
CHAPTER XII.
Exploring rides—A state visit—Culinary business—Arrival of the Sultan and suite—Procession of boats—Armed attendants—A royal salute—Visit to the ship—Use of dogs aboard—Amusements ashore—Eastern singing—A royal interpreter—Dress of the ladies—Influence of the women—An early rising Sultana—Marine amusements—Departure—Journey to Bu’ut Dahau—Hospitality of the mountaineers—Ascent—Fine views from the top—Flowers and insects—A Hadji’s tradition—Siassi Island—A horned steed—Sandakan—Pulo Bahalatolois 223
CHAPTER XIII.
Preparations—“Salaamat jelan” or safe voyage—Contrary winds—A total wreck—A sea bath—Making the best of it—Native visitors from the Bornean shore—Drying stores—Pigeon shooting—Foraging—Football—Tent life—A new boat—A marine visitor—Pulo Tiga—A fish dinner—Shore plants—Big fish—The Tampassuk—“The fatted calf”—Start for Kina Balu—Bare hills—Land culture—Bad roads—Ghinambaur village—Textile fibres—A chance shot—Thrifty natives—Buffalo riding—A friendly chief—Sineroup—Native wealth—Charms—Crossing swollen river—New orchids—Kambatuan—Rokos—Butterflies—Koung Green—Aboriginals from the interior—Pretty weeds—Lemoung’s death—Native ornaments—Native cloth—Bee keeping—How to manage “guides”—“Kurow”—Start for “Kina Balu”—Sleeping rock—Dusun cookery!—New plants—More of the “guide” nuisance 239
Plant collecting—Large Nepenthes—Sociable birds—Mountain climbing—Cold nights—Descent—Safe return to Kiau—Old skulls—Tree ferns—Fine climate—Land culture—Crossing rivers—“Lapayang’s” welcome—Tarippe fruit—“Beuhan”—Pleasant evening at Kambatuan village—Graceful young girls—Bundoo—Little gardens en route—Ghinambaur village—A hard day’s walking—Return to the Tampassuk—Short-tailed buffaloes—Two-horned rhinoceros—Return to Labuan—Smith’s illness—Success of the expedition 278
CHAPTER XV.
Tropical fruits—Culture of—Natural fruit orchards—The Durian—A macédoine of fruits—The Mangosteen—“Prada Prada”—Mango—The Rambutan or “hairy fruit”—Bread fruit—Jack-fruit, or “Nangka”—“Champada”—Jintawan, or Manoongan fruits (Willughbeia spp.)—Tampoe fruit—Red “Bilimbing”—“Mandaroit”—“Rambeneer”—“Mambangan”—“Luing”—“Langsat” or “Duku”—“Rambi”—“Mangalin”—“Jambosa,” or “Rose-apples”—Melons—Oranges—Pomoloes—Custard apples—Cocoa-nut—Wild onion fruit—Banana, or “Pisang” fruit 304
CHAPTER XVI.
Hints on travel—Food supplies—Bathing—Medicines—Modes of travelling—Shelter—Resting-places—Barter—Articles for exchange—Arms in a wild land—Products of the island—Prospects of Borneo 323