THE VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FISH AND THE UTILIZING OF REMNANTS.
Every fish has a season when it is most savory. During the breeding or spawning season, no fish is good. When you buy a dead fish, observe carefully the following:
The meat of middle sized fish is more savory than that of large ones.
When you buy live fish, take the lively ones, not those that swim on their side or back. The bought fish are best killed in the market. The quickest way of killing a fish is to stun it with a blow on the head or neck, then cutting its throat and its tail.
You scale the fish by taking hold of its tail and with a sharp knife or fish scaler scraping off the scales from there towards the head.
To retain the nourishing qualities of the fish, it is not soaked in water, only washed and boiled immediately. Whole fish are put on the fire with cold or hot water. Pieces of fish are put on with boiling water or prepared in hot butter or lard to retain the nutriment in the fish, since the hot water or fat contracts the cells at the cuts. The skin of a whole fish retains the nutriment, therefore it may be put on the fire in cold water.
Fish must not be covered up while cooking or frying so that the temperature will not get too high. Frozen fish must be thawed completely before using; if this is not done, the inside of the fish is mostly rare when serving it. No dish will be good when the fish or meat used is prepared in a frozen state.
Fish are dressed by making a slight cut along the whole under side and taking out all intestines. The inner darker membrane must be entirely removed and the fish washed well.
No. 1—TO BOIL.
Whitefish, shellfish, pike, codfish, pickerel, bass, black bass, white bass, flounders, plaice or sole, carp, salmon, trout, brook trout, cabeljou, river trout.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed and washed. Into a fish kettle pour 4 qts. of water, all the spices and enough salt to make it quite salty. Place the fish on the tray of the kettle in a swimming position and bring slowly to boil 5 minutes in cold or hot water, then set back to draw ½ hour. When the meat near the gills is not bloody any more, the fish is done. Before serving, rinse it with hot water to remove the scum and place on the platter in a swimming position. It is then garnished with lemon slices, parsley, lettuce and potatoes.
With the fish is served a fish gravy, mustard gravy, Bearnaise gravy or fresh creamed butter, browned butter, mustard butter, parsley butter, etc.
No. 2—BAKED FISH.
Any of the varieties named in No. 1.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed and dried, salted inside and outside and rolled in flour. It is placed into a pan or if possible an earthen or porcelain dish in which the butter has been heated; then put into the oven and baked for 10 minutes to a light yellow color. Baste with the cream and lemon juice, sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese, and add the capers and pepper-corns. In this gravy stew it ½ hour, then prepare carefully on a hot platter and serve. Strain the gravy through a sieve to remove all lumps, i.e., make it smooth. If it is too thick, add some cream or milk and pour it on the fish or serve it extra.
Remarks: This preparation is very fine. A little meat extract makes the sauce look more delicate.
No. 3—FISH STEAMED OR STEWED IN RED WINE GRAVY.
Any one of the varieties named in No. 1.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, dried, salted inside and outside and left in a cold place for 1½ hours. The gravy is then prepared. Brown the butter and flour and mix in all the ingredients, also red wine; add water or bouillon and cook slowly 1½ hours and strain. It must be smooth and palatable.
Rub the salt off, put the fish into a porcelain or earthen dish in which the ounce of butter has been melted and roast in the oven for 10 minutes, basting frequently with the butter. After this, pour the gravy over it and stew the fish uncovered in the oven for ½ hour.
Remarks: The pan or dish should not be much larger than the fish, so that this is well covered with the gravy. Both fish and gravy are served on the same hot platter.
No. 4—BROILED OR ROASTED FISH.
Any one kind named in No. 1.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed and dried, then ripped lengthwise into two halves and the bones removed. Then salt, dredge with flour, dip into beaten egg and roll in bread crumbs. Drip melted butter on the fish, place into a flat pan and roast or bake in the oven, basting with melted butter. Serve with brown butter gravy and garnish with lemon slices.
No. 5—BOILED SALMON.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: All ingredients are put into the water and then boiled. The fish is not scaled, but the insides taken out and washed. When the water boils, set it aside, put the fish in and let it draw ½–¾ hours. Cooking would make it tough. Serve a butter or madeira gravy with the fish.
Remarks: If the fish is a salmon, it requires 20 minutes to cook it.
No. 6—SALMON, BLUE.
Quantity for 15 Persons.
Preparation: The is dressed, washed and dried. The vinegar is heated and poured on the fish, then it is placed into a fish kettle in a swimming position and the water is poured on cold, so that it almost covers the fish. All the ingredients are added; bring it to boil and set aside to simmer 1 hour. The fish must be served carefully and garnished with parsley and lemon slices; potato balls are good with it. For gravy, serve creamed butter, drawn butter, egg gravy, remoulade gravy or mayonnaise dressing.
Remarks: Salmon is good served cold with a mayonnaise dressing.
No. 7—SALMON SALAD.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The boiled fish is arranged on a glass dish in a mound after being cut into nice pieces and the bones removed. The gravy or dressing is made by stirring the raw yolk of egg into the boiled yolks, adding the oil a few drops at a time, also the lemon juice, vinegar and the other ingredients. It must be thick. The dressing is poured over the salad and slightly mixed with a wooden spoon. Garnish the salad with hard-boiled eggs and green lettuce leaves.
No. 8—SLICED SALMON BROILED.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The salmon is cut into 2 to 3 slices, cleaned, washed and dried well. Brush the slices with the ¼ cup of melted butter, salt and put on the lemon juice, onion slices and parsley. Cover the dish and put on the stove for one hour but do not fry. After one hour, put into a broiler, broil for 10 to 15 minutes, basting with butter and turning frequently. You can also fry them in a buttered pan. Serve in a hot dish, garnish with lemon slices and parsley and serve with a tomato or olive gravy, or a cold, sour gravy.
No. 9—BOILED SALMON TROUT.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is cleaned and washed. The water with all ingredients in it is brought to boil, the fish placed into it in a swimming position, cooked 10 minutes and served on a hot platter. A fish or egg gravy may be served with it.
No. 10—FRIED TROUT.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, dried, salted inside and outside, dipped into the beaten egg and then into flour. The butter is heated in a pan, the fish fried in it to a light brown color and a butter gravy served with it.
No. 11—EEL, BLUE.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The eel is killed by wrapping the head into a cloth and giving it a few blows with a hatchet; then rub it with salt from head to tail until it looks blue. Skin the eel by making a cut in the skin around the head and pulling this down over the tail; if it does not strip off easily, cut it loose with a sharp knife. Cut the fish into equal pieces and clean each piece separately, pushing out the intestines and inner membrane and rubbing it with salt.
1½ qts. of water is brought to boil with 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar and the eel scalded with it. Heat fresh water, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, pepper-corns, bay-leaves, cloves, 1 onion, lemon slices and salt; in this water the eel is cooked slowly 15 minutes. The fish is then served on lettuce leaves and garnished with lemon slices. Caper, mustard or remoulade dressing is served with it. This fish is good eaten cold.
Remarks: The remnants of eel may be used to make aspic or head cheese. The eel broth and skin are utilized for it. See Head Cheese and Gelatines, No. 9 Eel in Jelly.
No. 12—BAKED EEL.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The eel is prepared as described in No. 11. The bones are taken out of the pieces, (these may be 3 to 4 inches long) salt and pepper, roll in beaten egg and flour and bake in hot butter to a nice brown color.
A Dutch dressing may be served with it.
No. 13—EEL IN BEER.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The eel is prepared as in No. 11, the bones being removed from the pieces. The 3 tablespoonfuls of butter are stirred into the flour, the beer added and also all the spices and lemon and onion slices. Cook this gravy and put in the pieces of eel to boil 20 minutes. Serve the eel on a hot platter, strain the gravy and pour it over the eel. The gravy must be thick and very palatable.
Remarks: If the gravy is not thick enough, mix some more flour with water, stir it in and let it boil.
No. 14—EEL WITH RICE. (FRICASSEE).
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The eel is prepared according to No. 11, cut into 4 inch pieces and cooked almost done in boiling water, salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, ½ sliced onion, 8 pepper-corns, 2 cloves, 1 bay-leaf. When almost done, take out the pieces and put them into the gravy, which is prepared in the following way: Heat the butter, stir in the flour, add the cream and stir well until smooth, add salt and lemon juice and let it simmer 10 minutes. Serve eel and dressing on a hot platter and place a rim of cooked rice around it. Then strew over the whole some fine minced parsley. If you wish you may sprinkle chopped parsley over the eel before serving, or you may cook the parsley in the dressing.
Remarks: The gravy must be smooth and savory.
No. 15—COLD EEL ROULADE.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
For Cooking.
Preparation: The eel is prepared as described in No. 11, its head and tail cut off and ripped open lengthwise; intestines and bones carefully taken out; then cut it in two crosswise, to make 4 pieces. These pieces are washed, dried and rubbed with salt. The four hard boiled eggs are chopped and mixed well with the chopped parsley, onion, capers, lemon juice, salt and pepper. This stuffing is put inside of the four pieces of eel and these rolled up tightly and tied with string, then each tied up in a piece of white cloth. Into the 2 qts. of water put all the ingredients for cooking, and the head, tail and skin chopped up into small pieces and cook 15 minutes. This eel stock must be tasted as to seasoning, vinegar added and the prepared pieces of eel cooked in it slowly for 45 minutes. Leave them in the stock until pretty well cooled off, then take them out and place them between two platters. After a few hours, take off the strings and cloth and cut them into thin slices which are served on green lettuce leaves and garnished with hard-boiled eggs. You may serve them also with pickles and mayonnaise or mustard dressing.
Remarks: These eel roulades may be made into eel jelly. See Chapter Nine, No. 9.
No. 16—LARDED PICKEREL.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, dried and rubbed with salt inside and outside. The back is skinned by slitting the sides and pulling the skin off. The back is then larded with bacon strips. The butter is heated in a pan and the fish placed into it in a swimming position after dredging with flour and grated Parmesan cheese. The hot butter is dripped on, also the lemon juice, and the fish put into the oven to bake 15 minutes. During this time baste with the butter carefully so the flour and cheese make a crust on the fish. Gradually add the cream and capers, and bake the fish in this dressing for ½ hour, basting frequently. Serve on a hot platter. Color the gravy with the meat extract and if it is too thin, add 1 teaspoonful of flour, mixed with cream or milk, cook and strain. The gravy is served with the fish; garnish with potatoes and macaroni and serve with sauerkraut.
No. 17—LARDED AND STUFFED PICKEREL.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
The Stuffing.
Preparation: The preparation is the same as given in No. 16. The filling or stuffing is made from chopped champignons stewed in the butter, flour, salt, pepper and cream. This is stuffed into the fish which is then sewed up. The fish is larded and cooked according to directions in No. 16. The gravy is also prepared as in No. 16.
No. 18—STUFFED AND LARDED PIKE.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
The preparation and ingredients are the same as given under No. 16 and No. 17.
No. 19—FISH FRICASSEE FROM PICKEREL OR WHITEFISH.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
For the Fricassee.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, dried, the skin taken off the back and this larded with bacon. Then it is sprinkled with salt and put into a pan in a swimming position with ¼ lb. of butter and 1 cup of cream and fried slowly for 1 hour to a golden yellow color. During this time simmer the 18 crawfish or crabs in salt water for 45 minutes. They should not boil, but simmer. From eight crabs take out the meat and leave the other ten whole.
The veal sweetbreads are scalded, the membrane removed, salted and peppered, the lemon juice dripped on, then dredged with flour and fried in ⅛ lb. of butter to a nice brown color. The sweetbreads are cut into nice pieces. The champignons are heated in 1 tablespoonful of butter; lemon juice, salt, pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream are added. The truffles are peeled and sliced and stewed with ½ tablespoonful of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bouillon, 1 pinch of salt. The crab meat from the 8 crabs is chopped fine and stirred with 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1½ tablespoonfuls of flour; add a little cream and boil. The lemon juice, salt, pepper and 1 yolk of egg are stirred in and set to cool. Small dumplings are formed from this mixture and fried in hot lard. The batter for the dumplings must be thick; try one first and if it does not hold together, add more flour. These small dishes must be prepared while the fish is cooking. That which is done must be kept hot in hot water. The fish, when done, is served on a hot platter in a swimming position, three crabs are placed on the fish’s back, the other seven along its sides. The pieces of sweetbread are also arranged neatly around the fish and the champignons and truffles, as well as the fish dumplings. All must be very hot and kept so until the gravy is done.
The Gravy: Into the butter in which the sweetbreads were fried stir some flour and add bouillon or water, pour it into the pan in which the fish was fried and cook for 2 minutes, taste and strain. It must be smooth and be served with the fish.
Remarks: This is a fine dish for parties. Potato balls and green lettuce are served with it.
No. 20—PICKEREL WITH TOMATO SAUCE.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Gravy.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, dried, salted, placed into a pan and lightly covered with a buttered paper. Then the hot butter is poured over it and it is cooked in the oven until well done, basting frequently for about one hour. In the meantime the gravy is prepared thus: The ham is cut into small pieces and fried light yellow in the butter, with onion slices and flour, then add bouillon and cream, season with salt, pepper and add Parmesan cheese; also put in the sliced or chopped tomatoes and cook until pretty thick. Strain the gravy, taste it and heat it again. The fish, which must be a nice pink color, is brushed with the thick gravy and served in a swimming position. The rest of the gravy may be served separately.
No. 21—PICKEREL OR CODFISH SALAD.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The boiled fish is cut up into nice pieces. The butter is melted, the peeled whole onion fried light yellow in it, then taken out. Stir in the flour, add the cream and cook 5 minutes. The 2 yolks are stirred in, but the gravy must not cook any more, cool it and season with salt, mustard, pepper, capers, vinegar and salad oil. Pour the gravy over the fish.
No. 22—BAKED RED SNAPPER.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, dried and rubbed with a little salt. It is then dredged with flour, dipped into the beaten egg and cracker crumbs. The butter is heated and put on the fish, then baked in the oven for ½ hour until a nice brown. Serve a parsley gravy with it.
No. 23—PICKEREL OR WHITEFISH WITH SAUERKRAUT.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: A baking dish or casserole is buttered and filled with layers of sauerkraut and fish alternating. The bones must have been removed and the fish cut into nice pieces. There should be 3 layers of sauerkraut and 2 layers of fish. After the dish is filled, stir the cream with some salt and pour over the whole. Put a little butter on top and bake in oven for 45 minutes.
No. 24—BOILED TURBOT.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The turbot is drawn by making a cut across the dark side below the gills, then rub it with salt until all slime is gone. After washing it, pour ½ qt. of vinegar on and let it stand for ½ hour. Run the knife along the spine on the black side and slit the white side in several places to prevent the skin from bursting while cooking. Fins and tail are shortened. Put plenty of salt water into the fish kettle, put the fish in, white side up, and cook slowly for 5 minutes, then set aside to simmer for ½ hour. Do not cover up the kettle. When serving, the white side should be up and garnish the platter with any kind of lettuce or salad i.e., cucumber salad, head lettuce or endive. Place lemon slices on the fish or small boiled crabs. Serve with a butter gravy or creamed butter and potato balls.
No. 25—TURBOT FRICASSEE.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is cut into large pieces. A baking dish is buttered and the pieces of fish placed in. Add 3 tablespoonfuls of heated butter, stirred with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, the cream, champignon juice and bouillon. The latter may be omitted. Cook the gravy until it is smooth and add the lemon juice, salt, pepper, chopped champignons and capers.
The tongue which has been boiled is skinned and sliced and put into the gravy, then boiled a few minutes and tasted as to seasoning. Pour this gravy over the fish, strew with Parmesan cheese and drip on some butter. Place the baking dish into a dish with water and bake in the oven to a nice color.
No. 26—BOILED RED SNAPPER.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed and put in a swimming position, into water enough to cover it and brought to boil. All the ingredients are added and after boiling up once, set aside to simmer ½ hour. Garnish with lemon slices and parsley. Serve the fish with a butter gravy mixed with fine chopped parsley or with an egg dressing.
No. 27—RED SNAPPER WITH RED WINE DRESSING.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
The preparation and ingredients are the same as given under No. 3.
No. 28—FRIED SMELT OR SPARLING.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, rubbed with salt and left standing for 1½ hours. Then the salt is washed off a little. Beat the egg with the milk, brush the fish with it and dip it into the flour. Heat the butter and bake the fish in it in the oven to a nice brown color.
When served, pour the drippings over.
No. 29—FILLET OF SHELLFISH, WHITEFISH, CABELJOU, SOLE, WITH DRESSING.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Fish Bouillon.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, the bones all removed and cut into equal fillets. These are salted a little and left with the salt ½ hour.
During this time prepare the fish bouillon. The bones and skin are brought to boil in 1½ qts. of water to which the pepper-corns, cloves, lemon and onion slices and salt have been added and then cooked until the water has boiled down to ¾ qt. Then put the fish fillets into a buttered pan, season with 1 pinch of pepper, lemon juice, the ¼ lb. of butter placed on in pieces and ½ cupful of the fish bouillon poured over them.
The pan must be covered and the fish stewed in the oven for 25 minutes, then served on a hot platter, the drippings poured over. A Dutch gravy is served with it and the bouillon used for that. See gravies or dressings, Dutch Dressing.
No. 30—FRIED MACKEREL.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The mackerel is cleaned well, the head chopped off and the fish split open lengthwise. The bones are all taken out, the fillets rubbed with salt and let stand for 1 hour. Then it is washed a little, dried, dipped into the egg beaten with milk and into flour. The butter is heated and the fillets are fried in it to a nice color for about 10 to 15 minutes. Serve on a hot platter, pour the drippings over and garnish with lemon slices and parsley. If the drippings are not sufficient, make an extra gravy of drawn butter mixed with chopped parsley.
No. 31—ROLLED, STUFFED FISH FILLETS.
Made from whitefish, pickerel, cabeljou, shellfish, halibut.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
For Stew.
The Gravy.
Preparation: The fish is dressed, washed, skinned, split open lengthwise and the bones taken out, then it is cut into pieces 6 inches long and 3 inches wide. The trimmings which are left, must be fully ¼ lb. and are chopped fine. From 2 eggs make scrambled eggs. Cream the ⅛ lb. of butter and mix it well with the soaked roll, chopped fish trimming, 1 tablespoonful of parsley, scrambled egg, onion, salt, pepper. Press the whole mixture through a sieve and stir in another egg. This stuffing must taste very spicy or piquant and is spread evenly on the fish fillets. Then roll each one up and tie it with a white string, place them into a roasting pan, add ½ qt. of water, ½ pt. of white wine, 6 pepper-corns, ¼ onion, 2 slices of lemon, 3 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and salt. The 1 ounce of butter is cut into pieces and put on the fish, then cover the pan with a buttered paper and bake in the oven ½ hour. Serve on a hot platter.
The gravy or dressing is prepared by mixing ⅛ lb. of butter with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, add the strained broth from the fillets, cook and stir in 3 yolks of eggs, strain and serve with the fish fillets.
No. 32—BOILED CODFISH.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is pounded well, and put into water for 36 hours, changing it every 12 hours and adding a teaspoonful of soda at every change. After that, skin the fish and cut it into pieces, place it into boiling water with the salt, and 2 sliced onions, and let it simmer for 45 minutes. Serve it with drawn butter or mustard gravy.
No. 33—CODFISH RAGOUT.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The remnants of boiled codfish are cut in small pieces. The ⅛ lb. of butter is browned, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour stirred in, add the bouillon and season with vinegar, onion, pepper-corns and bay-leaves.
The gravy is cooked slowly ½ hour, seasoned and strained. Add the fish, reheat but do not boil and serve on a hot platter with potatoes.
No. 34—FRIED SOLE.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: Skin the fish by running a sharp knife around the tail; loosen the skin from the meat and pull downward over the head. The white side is treated the same way, the tail and fins are shortened and the fish cut into convenient pieces. Every piece is cleaned well, salted and peppered, the lemon juice dripped on, the slices of onion placed on top, the pot covered up and the fish left in it to simmer 1½ to 2 hours. ½ hour before serving, each piece is dried, dredged with flour and dipped into the egg beaten with the milk and salt and then into roll crumbs.
The butter is heated and in it the pieces of fish are fried to a nice brown color. Serve it on a hot platter, garnish with lemon slices and parsley. The drippings may be used as gravy.
No. 35—BAKED SOLE.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
The ingredients and preparations are the same as in the preceding, No. 34. The pieces of fish are put into boiling hot lard deep enough so they float, and baked to a golden yellow color.
Serve with a mayonnaise or caviar gravy. See Gravies or Dressings.
Remarks: The pieces of fish may be rolled in finely chopped or ground hazel nuts instead of bread crumbs; this is very fine.
No. 36—BAKED GURNET.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The fish is cleaned well, dried, cut in halves, lengthwise, the bones taken out, salted, seasoned with lemon juice, dipped into egg beaten with milk and then into flour.
Heat the butter and fry the fish in the oven for ½ hour, basting frequently. Serve a butter dressing with it.
No. 37—SMALL FISH RAGOUTS IN SHELLS OR SMALL MOLDS; UTILIZING REMNANTS OF FISH.
Quantity for 6 Persons.
Preparation: The butter is heated, the flour stirred in, also the cream, wine and lemon juice and boiled. This gravy should be thick; if too thick, add more cream or milk, salt, pepper and Parmesan cheese, then boil one minute. Cut the fish into small pieces and put into the gravy. Butter the shells or molds and fill with this mixture, strew the bread crumbs on and bake in the oven about 10 minutes, to a light yellow color. Serve immediately after taking out of the oven.
Remarks: This dish may be served as a fine side dish together with head lettuce.