choir, 62 feet 6 inches long by 23 feet wide, with a south aisle; a nave, 60 feet 9 inches long by 22 feet 6 inches wide; north and south transepts,

and a tower over the crossing. The eastern part of the choir (Fig. 983) forms the presbytery, which, like that of most Scottish churches, is without aisles, and is lighted by a large central and two side windows, all containing late tracery. On the south side of the choir, west of the presbytery, is an aisle, separated from it by two circular piers and three arches. From above the caps of the piers two bold arches are thrown across the south aisle, after the manner of flying buttresses (Fig. 984). It will be observed from this view that there is a peculiarity of construction in the upper part of the choir walls, the clerestory windows being placed over the piers and not over the arches, as is usual. This arrangement has had the effect of preventing the flying arches or buttresses from being carried as high as they might have been (Fig. 985) had the windows been placed over the arches in the ordinary manner. The flying arches or buttresses are thus very low, and interfere with the space in the aisle (see Plan). There are a sedilia, with three divisions, and a piscina (Fig. 986) near the east end of the south wall of the choir. Part of the pavement there still exists, and two steps are observable in the floor.

On the north side of the choir is the sacristy, which occupies the place of the north aisle. The door to the sacristy (Fig. 987) is of fine design, and the ornament of the caps of the shafts (Fig. 988), together with the caps of the piers between the choir and the south aisle and the arches of the crossing (Figs. 989 and 990), exhibit fine examples of Celtic carving, mixed with grotesque figures. Carving of an identical description is shown in Figs. 991 and 992 on slabs in St. Oran’s Chapel, one of which, dated 1489, also exhibits late Gothic ornaments on the edge. This stone bears the following inscription, from which it would appear to be in memory of the father of Abbot Macfingone, and of the abbot himself (whose tomb and monument are preserved in the choir, as will be pointed out further on):—“Hec: est: Crux: Laeclanni: Meic: fingone: et: ejus: fil—Ohannis: Abbatis: de: Hy: facta: Anno: domini: Mº. CCCCLXXX: IXº. Numerous examples of carving of a very similar description occur throughout the West Highlands, and, where dated, are all of about the above period. The undated specimens are also distinctly in the same style and of the same epoch. There can, therefore, be no hesitation in assigning the sculpture in the cathedral, which is of a similar character (such as the caps in Figs. 988 and 990), to about the same date. The dog-tooth ornaments in Fig. 993 and other similar examples, which are not rare at Iona and throughout the Western Islands, are thus clearly a revival, at a late date, of ancient forms.

Close to the sacristy door, but raised to a considerable height above the choir floor, stands a round column (see Fig. 983), which supports two pointed arches. These arches appear to have opened into an upper aisle or chapel. They are carved with rows of dog-tooth or nail-head ornaments, which have the appearance of thirteenth century work; but as they are

much decayed, they are probably of the late date to which, as we have seen, many examples of imitation dog-tooth enrichments at Iona and elsewhere belong.

The parapet of the choir (see Fig. 984) is simple, and is supported on massive corbels, like those common in the castles of Scotland. The water of the gutters escapes by small apertures through the parapet.

The nave contains a good western doorway of late design (Fig. 994), with three orders of mouldings in the jambs, which have no caps, but have the jamb mouldings carried round the pointed arch. The nave and transepts have no aisles. The windows of the nave (Fig. 995) are much damaged. At each end of the south wall is a small single pointed light,

and there has been a triple light window, with tracery, in the centre. The single light window at the east end of the nave has a carved head, with a water table over it, inserted above the window. Part of the north

wall of the nave is demolished (see Fig. 994), and a door to the cloister near the west end has been built up (see Plan).

The north transept has two deeply-arched recesses in the east wall, containing small windows and a central arched recess, which seems to have contained a statue. This is apparently the oldest part of the whole edifice, the arches, shafts, and caps in the east wall (Fig. 996) having very much the character of transition work. A small window in the west wall, raised so as to be above the cloister roof (see Fig. 994), throws light on the point where the altar stood.

The south transept is 22 feet by 17 feet, and is lighted by a three light traceried window in the south gable wall (see Fig. 984), and a small window placed at a considerable height in the west wall (see Fig. 995). The parapet and corbel table are the same as those of the choir.

The crossing has four arches opening into the choir, nave, and transepts, which carry a tower, 29 feet by 25 feet, over the walls, rising to two stories in height above the eaves, and crowned with a plain parapet, supported on simple corbels (see Figs. 984 and 994)). The upper story has rectangular windows on each face, three of them filled with tracery of late patterns, and the one on the north with a window containing simple tracery

(Fig. 997). The lintels are composed of straight arches, supported by a remarkable shaft on the inside, which recalls the turned shafts of pre-Norman work. The access to the tower is by a small wheel staircase at the south-west angle of the crossing. The original doorway of the staircase entered from the nave, but, after the Reformation, the adjoining

west arch of the crossing was built up, and a new door, with a small enclosing wall, was formed from the crossing into the wheel stair (as shown in the Plan). In the upper part of the tower are built recesses, as if meant for pigeons’ nests; and the upper floor in the roof of the

tower is lighted with slits in the wall near the corners, except on the south side, where a larger opening is introduced and filled with tracery (see Fig. 984).

The whole of the church has been roofed with timber, but is now quite open to the weather. The stone corbels intended to carry the principals of the roof still remain where the walls are complete (see Fig. 983).

Externally, the most prominent features are the buttresses and base course (see Figs. 984 and 995)). These exist round most of the south wall of the nave, part of the south transept, and the east end of the choir. The angle buttresses have the general form, with bead on angle and sloping table on top, of thirteenth century work, and the broad, sloping base has also a similar character. Several small intermediate buttresses are introduced, which are in many cases awkwardly situated as regards the windows, being kept below the window sills. The base course on the south side of the nave is set at a level several feet above that of the south transept (see Fig. 995). It is stopped suddenly before reaching the eastmost bay of the nave. The base also stops equally suddenly on the west wall of the south transept, a few feet from the south-west angle buttress. The base course and buttresses would thus seem, where they exist, to indicate a rebuilding of those portions of the walls, the portions left without a base course being possibly older. Although the forms of the base course and buttresses are of early design, there is no doubt but that they are late erections, and that the forms and design are revivals or imitations of older features. Their association with the late doorway of the nave and the late traceries of the choir and south transept sufficiently proves their comparatively recent construction.

In the above general description of the cathedral, the probable dates of the various parts have been casually referred to. It is now proposed to explain more fully the dates we would assign to the different portions of the structure and the reasons for doing so.

Dr. Skene has the following footnote[37]—

“One of the columns which supports the great tower of the Abbey Church has on the upper portion the inscription, ‘Donaldus O’Brolchan fecit hoc opus,’ and seems to think that that inscription fixes the name of the builder of the church. Messrs. Buckler, in their description of the architecture of the cathedral,[38] give the above inscription as reading, ‘Donaldus ornatum fecit hoc opus.’”

The inscription is not now legible, but even if it were, it could give little clue to the date of the edifice.

There will probably be little difference of opinion regarding the antiquity of the east wall of the north transept (see Fig. 996). The character of the arches, shafts, and caps, even worn away as they are, is distinctly late Norman or transition. The small round headed windows in the recesses of the wide internal bays are also quite in keeping with that

style. The depth of the recesses on each side of the central arch, with its figure, which form a special feature, was rendered necessary by the extra width of the wall required (as will be pointed out further on) to admit of a passage in the thickness of the wall above. Almost all the rest of the church appears to be of a much later date, and to belong, with small exceptions, to the late fifteenth or early part of the sixteenth century.

Part of the crossing, however, is probably older; but the other portions of the crossing seem to have been rebuilt at a late date, as the following indications show. The original arches of the north and west sides have no mouldings, but are only chamfered, and the caps, so far as visible, have an ancient character. The north arch has, at some period, been strengthened by the insertion of additional piers, and an additional arch within the then existing piers and arch (see Plan). The old arch is distinctly visible in the wall, and portions of the old piers are also exposed to view.

The arches of the east and south sides of the crossing are of a different character from the above, the arches being fully moulded. The piers (Fig. 998) do not differ much from those of the older sides, and are all of an early form of design. The same character is kept up in the inserted piers of the north arch, although these must undoubtedly be later than the original piers. The mouldings seem all to have been imitated from early forms (such as we find in the choir arch of the nunnery).[39] The changes in the plans of the piers and mouldings, common in the central districts of the mainland, would be long in reaching this distant spot, and the old forms appear to have been, therefore, adhered to. Such continuations or imitations of early forms are very common in Scotland. It should be observed that the outer or central shaft of each pier has a fillet on its central line, which indicates (especially here) a somewhat advanced date (see Fig. 996). The bases are of a very late type, as also the caps, both of which differ from those of the earlier piers. From these facts we infer that the south and east sides of the crossing have been rebuilt at a late period, possibly at the time when the tower was erected. That part of the edifice is always justly regarded as being very late, and the rectangular windows and their tracery clearly support that view. If the above supposition is correct, then the insertion of the additional piers and arch under the north tower arch is explained. That addition would be made at the time the tower was built, in order to make sure that the support was sufficient to carry it. Similar extra strengthening was not necessary in the case of the west arch, as it already had sufficient piers and supports; and the additions to the piers of the north arch, which

previously were small, simply made them of similar strength to those of the west arch.

We therefore conclude that the original north and west arches and piers of the crossing are old, perhaps of the thirteenth century; while the east and south arches and piers have been rebuilt, and the additional piers and arch added to the north opening, probably when the tower was erected.

Let us now turn to the choir. When we consider the forms of the tracery of the three windows of the presbytery (see Figs. 983 and 984), and the north window in Fig. 999), the thickness of the mullions, and the number and smallness of their mouldings, there cannot be much difficulty in assigning these windows to a late date. The forms and decorations of the arches of the sedilia (see Fig. 986) also clearly indicate a late period. These are exceedingly good of their kind, and it is a misfortune that the Celtic ornament with which they are covered is now so far decayed as to be scarcely legible; but there can be no question as to the lateness of their date.

On turning to the south aisle the same impression is received. The circular and stunted form of the piers, with their remarkable bases and the peculiar form of their enriched capitals (see Figs. 989 and 990)), strike one at once with the idea that they belong to a late and rather debased epoch. The insertion of the clerestory windows over the piers (an arrangement which is also met with at the nunnery) is bad construction, and led to the adoption of the low and poor flying buttresses (which are evidently an afterthought) as a means of steadying the main structure.

The north side of the choir is so peculiar in its arrangements that little can be gathered from it with regard to dates. If the pillar and

arches of the high chapel over the sacristy (see Fig. 983) are of thirteenth century work, as their ornamentation would at first sight lead one to suppose, they might possibly have been re-erected in their present position; but they are more likely to have been made in imitation of thirteenth century work, and built here at a late period. The section of the arch mouldings (Fig. 1000) is almost identical with that of the chapter house arches, which (as will be afterwards explained) are almost undoubtedly of very late date.

These arches gave a view of the altar from a high chapel, which, as will be pointed out, was perhaps connected with the library or dormitory. The chapel has been added to the church, and the walls are not bonded into the choir. The decoration of the upper portion, with its imitation dog-tooth or nail-head ornament round a straight sided arch (Fig. 1001), shows that it is of very late date.

This structure appears to occupy the position of the original north aisle, which at one time extended (or was contemplated) the full length from the presbytery to the north transept. The water table over the old aisle roof runs the whole length, and has a sloping water table where the roof abutted against the north transept. The old corbels to receive the timbers of the aisle roof also still exist. The aisle would no doubt block one of the Norman transept windows, but that could not be avoided.

The doorway from the choir to the sacristy (see Fig. 987) is a very fine feature, and one would be inclined to consider it somewhat earlier than the other parts of the sacristy and upper chapel. Possibly it may have formed an access to the aisle before the upper chapel was raised to its present position.

The above examination of the choir, south aisle, and sacristy leads to the belief that they are all of a late period, probably about 1500. The entire building bears evidence of having been in whole or part re-erected about the end of the fifteenth century or the beginning of the sixteenth century, possibly when it became the Cathedral of the Isles in 1506. Some portions, such as the north transept, the north and west sides of the crossing, the wheel stair to the tower and parts of the walling connected therewith, are older; but all the rest, including the east and south arches of the crossing, is of a much later date. Besides the points to which attention has been drawn above, it may be noted that the buttresses of the choir, which from their form may have been raised from ancient bases, have on each angle a single bead on their lower part and a triple bead on the upper part (see Fig. 984). The upper story of the tower, which is admittedly very late, has also a triple bead on the angles of the top story. May it not have happened that the building suffered from some cause, or was intentionally taken down and reconstructed about the end of the fifteenth or beginning of the sixteenth century? Such an event might account for the antique form of the buttresses, which may have been raised from existing portions of old buttresses; while the triple bead on their upper story would show the change of style introduced at the time of the reconstruction. It would also explain the preservation of the old doorway to the sacristy, while the upper parts of the walls were rebuilt. The very irregular appearance of the lower part of the north wall of the choir might also be thus accounted for. The interior string course on the north side, which rises in large steps from the sacristy door, is composed of stones partly enriched and partly plain, as if it formed part of a reconstruction in which old materials had been reused. The clerestory windows, with their ancient forms, are doubtless reproductions of the outlines which formerly existed.

The section of the south-east pier of the crossing (see Fig. 998) shows that the south transept is of about the same period as the choir, the round responds in each corresponding with the circular piers of the choir, and the carved caps being very similar in both (see Figs. 989 and 990)); and the south wall of the transept, with its late traceried window and buttresses and base course, is evidently of the same period as the presbytery. The mouldings of the mullions are in both cases returned along the sills, an unusual and late arrangement.

The rebuilt part of the crossing has arch moulds which correspond in style with those of the south aisle arches, and the sculpture of the caps

also corresponds with that of the aisle piers, both containing, as above mentioned, fine examples of Celtic foliage and figures. The peculiar traceried windows at the east end of the south aisle of choir and the adjoining piscina (see Fig. 999) are also clearly of late date.

The cloister lies to the north of the nave; it measures 73 feet from north to south by 66 feet from east to west. The cloister walk has had a wooden roof all round, resting on corbels (see Fig. 994) in the main wall, and on an arcade on the side next the cloister garth. Some fragments of the shafts and arches of the arcade are preserved in the chapter house, and the bases of a twin column, socketed for the shafts, stand on the wall at the north-west angle. The arcade would thus appear to have rested on coupled shafts, and, so far as can be ascertained by examination of the only surviving portion at the south-west angle and the fragments in the chapter house, the arches were pointed and carved with Celtic ornament somewhat similarly to the arches of the sedilia in the choir (see Fig. 986). In each angle of the cloister walk an arch has been thrown across the walk diagonally, so as to strengthen and steady the walls. Only one of these arches, that at the south-west angle (see Fig. 994), remains entire, those in the other angles being reduced to fragments. This arch is the only one which is moulded on the edge, the others being splayed. These arches have evidently been built after the walls adjoining, as they fit awkwardly against previously existing doorways at the north-east and north-west angles. That at the south-west angle butts against a structure which seems to have formed a turret adjoining the north-west angle of the nave. This turret contains a small chamber, at about 7 feet to 8 feet above the floor of the nave, which enters by a small door from the nave, and is said to be the porter’s lodge. It has a curiously cusped loophole opening in the direction of the church door.

The cloister is surrounded by buildings on the east and north. The north transept has a door to the cloister, and a benitier is placed near the entrance. Next to the transept on the north is a chamber, 10 feet wide, entering from the cloister (see Fig. 982), and lighted by a window to the east. There is a fireplace in the east wall of this room, being the only fireplace in the monastery. It seems doubtful whether this chamber was not originally the slype or passage from the cloister towards the east, as there is no other passage.

Next to this, on the north, is the chapter house, which projects beyond the general line of the buildings, the portion next the cloister having the appearance of a vestibule. The inner cloister enters from the vestibule by two arches (Fig. 1002), which rest on a central round pillar and corbels at the sides. This pillar is sometimes stated to be of Norman work, and the chapter house is, consequently, regarded as of Norman date. But a careful examination of the pillar and its capital leads to the conclusion that it is comparatively a late structure. The carving of the cap (Fig. 1003) is very peculiar. On the outer or west side, the ornament, which is somewhat decayed, resembles that of the caps of the adjoining nunnery church, and may easily be mistaken for ancient. But the ornament of the inner or east side of the cap (see Fig. 1003) is quite different, and is undoubtedly of very late design, being similar to that on the carved tombstones of the fifteenth or sixteenth centuries, such as that in Figs. 991 and 992. The dog-tooth or nail-head ornament of the arches, although at first sight like first pointed work, is found, on closer inspection, to consist of late imitations—showing three small nail-heads placed close together, so as to form an enrichment in a manner not at all transition like. The same remark applies to the enrichments of the high chapel in the choir (see Fig. 1000).

The walls of the eastern part of the cloister are not over 2 feet 6 inches in thickness (which would be very unusual in Norman work), and they have been strengthened by interior piers when the present flat barrel arch was erected over the chapter house. This probably took place when the upper part of this portion of the building was raised a story in height, possibly in order to form the library on the upper floor. It is evident, from an examination of the junction of the walls on the exterior, that the upper floor of this part of the building was added at a late period. Both vestibule and chapter house appear to have had a stone seat running along the walls, and the whole may possibly have formed the place of assembly of the monks. Probably, like the chapter house at St. Andrews, the western portion, or vestibule, was the original chapter house, and the inner division was added at a later period.

From the chapter house a passage is visible in the upper part of the east wall of the north transept. In order to admit of this, the wall of the transept (as above pointed out) has required to be made of great thickness, and this explains the depth of the two recesses under it in the transept previously referred to. As already mentioned, there was an upper floor over the chapter house and the adjoining portions of the east range of the cloister buildings. Part of this upper floor is believed to have been the library—the literary treasures of which were famous—and part would, no doubt, be the dormitory of the monks.

It seems not improbable that the passage in the transept wall may have led from the library or dormitory to the chapel in the upper aisle of the choir over the sacristy, and the use of that chapel would thus be explained. The chapel, as already mentioned, is a structure of late erection, as is apparent from the imitation dog-tooth running round the straight-sided arch of the east window (see Fig. 1002). The passage in the transept wall may be much older, but was possibly utilised in connection with the late reconstruction of the monastery, as above suggested.

To the north of the chapter house are two chambers of good size, over which an upper story has extended, as the remains of the windows show.

The north side of the cloister has been occupied by the refectory, a building 63 feet long by 20 feet wide. It is situated on the first or upper floor, and is of late work; but seems to occupy the position of a previous refectory, which formerly stood on the site, and of which some portions of the walls remain. The first refectory appears to have been on the ground floor, as the remains of what must have been a handsome doorway in the south wall near the west end of this range prove. This doorway has had three orders of mouldings with shafts and caps, about 7 feet high, apparently of thirteenth century work, of which some fragments remain, partly built into the adjoining angle structure. The latter is evidently a late erection, as it encloses part of the west jamb of the above doorway. The pier of the diagonal arch of the cloister walk at the east end of the refectory also encroaches on the door beside it. At a somewhat late period the refectory has been raised to the upper floor, and an entrance made to it by a wide staircase at the east end (which would also probably form the day staircase to the dormitory). The ground floor is low, and has loopholes for windows. It has apparently been used for cellars or storages. There is a wide pointed doorway leading into it at the north-west angle (see Fig. 997). The north elevation of the structure is fairly preserved.

The buttresses seem to be reconstructions on the lines of the original ones, but the windows, both in the north elevation and towards the cloister, are of later date.

The eastern range of buildings is continued northwards beyond the refectory by a chamber 33 feet long by 12 feet 6 inches wide, which seems to have been connected on the upper floor with a lavatory and latrine. The latter has a built channel, evidently intended, from the low aperture at each end, for the passage of a stream of water, which could be easily led into it from the neighbouring burn. To the west of this stand the walls, 3 feet high, of a nearly detached edifice, with a separate outer doorway, which may perhaps have been an infirmary. To the north-east, the low walls are observable of a detached structure 58 feet 9 inches long by 21 feet 6 inches wide. The only wall opening traceable is the doorway, which has been of simple design. This is supposed by some to have been the kitchen, but it seems doubtful. There is no appearance of a fireplace.

A small detached chapel, 38 feet in length by 20 feet 9 inches in width over the walls, lies to the north-east of the chapter house. It has had a doorway in the north wall, a small centre window in the east wall, and a similar window in each of the side walls near the east end. The windows are trefoil headed and cusped, and appear to be late. The doorway had two orders, with a bead on each. The orientation of this building is different from that of the cathedral.

Adjoining the south-west angle of the cloister, and built out from it, is a small enclosure containing stone coffins (see Fig. 994). Immediately beyond this are the remains of another enclosure, connected with a Celtic cross (called St. Martin’s) near the west end of the cathedral (see Fig. 995). The inner of these chambers, which encloses the stone coffins, is called “St. Columba’s Tomb.” Dr. Skene is of opinion that it is actually the structure which contained the body of St. Columba, the coffin of that Saint being placed on the right or south side, and that of St. Blathmac (a martyr who died in defending the abbey against the Northmen in 825) being placed on the left or north side. This view is, however, controverted by Sir Henry Dryden in a MS. of 1879, deposited in the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh.

There is also a well in the same locality as the above enclosures.

The ruins of a chapel of some size (48 feet long by 30 feet wide over the walls) lie at a short distance to the west of the cloister. The walls are reduced to a few feet in height, and are partly rebuilt in a rough manner. There seems to have been a doorway in the east end, but this is doubtless not original. A turret can be traced at the south-east angle and another at the south-west angle.

To the north-east of the cloister lie the total ruins of what is called the Abbot’s House, and at some distance to the south-east of the church may be observed the greatly demolished remains of a chapel.

In the choir are preserved several monuments. On the south side, close to the sedilia (see Fig. 986), lies the well sculptured effigy of Abbot Kenneth; and on the north side, near the door of the sacristy, is the effigy of Abbot M‘Kinnon, the last abbot of Iona (the head being visible in Fig. 987), around which is legible the following inscription, “Hic jacet Johannes MacFingone, Abbas de Hy qui obiit anno Domini Millessimo Quingentessimo cujus animae propitietur Deus Altissimus. Amen.”

In the floor of the choir a large slab shows the remains of brass work, and against the east wall rests the carved figure of a knight, with shield and spear, said to be the monument of a M‘Lean (see Fig. 983).

ST. MACHAR’S CATHEDRAL, Old Aberdeen.

Old Aberdeen is situated on the river Don, about two miles north from the town of Aberdeen on the Dee. The cathedral, which is dedicated to St. Machar, is built in granite, and is now considerably reduced in size from its original dimensions. The nave (Fig. 1004) is entire and is used as the parish church. The walls of the transepts exist only to the height of about 10 feet. The choir has been entirely destroyed. The bishop’s palace, which stood at the east end of the cathedral, has also disappeared. It was a large building, and “had a fine court, having a high tower at each of its four corners; an outer and inner gate; with a deep well in the middle of the court; and an iron gate by which the bishop passed from his palace into the choir.”[40]

The cathedral stands on the north side of an extensive churchyard, and the situation is pleasant, having the houses of the chanonry—some of them quaint-looking and interesting—approaching it on the south. On the north it is skirted by high trees, which grow on a steep bank sloping down from the cathedral towards the Don.

The seat of the bishop was translated from Murthlack or Mortlack, in Banffshire, to Aberdeen by King David I. in the year 1136, St. Nectan being the last bishop of Mortlack and the first of Aberdeen. The third bishop, Matthew Kinninmond, began to build a cathedral between 1183 and 1199 to supersede the primitive church then existing, “which [new building], because it was not glorious enough, Bishop Cheyne threw down.”[41]

A second edifice was begun by Bishop Cheyne shortly after 1282, and the work went on till the time when the country was involved in the war with Edward I. After Bruce was seated on the throne, Cheyne was temporarily banished, and “during his absence the king, seeing the new cathedral he had begun, made the church to be built with the revenues of the bishoprick.”[42]

The cathedral thus erected was in its turn thrown down by Bishop Alexander Kinninmond, who succeeded in 1355, and he began a new building on a still larger scale about the year 1370. Of his operations there remain two large piers for the support of the central tower, which form the earliest portion of the structure of St. Machar’s now remaining. These piers are built of red freestone, and are much more graceful and