iii. PARISH OF SMALL ISLES PLATEAU

The parish of Small Isles includes the islands of Eigg, Rum, Canna, Sanday and Muck (Map VI.). The fragmentary basalt-plateau which it contains, although the smallest of the whole series, is surpassed by none in the variety and interest of its geology. It contains by far the most complete records of the rivers which, during the volcanic period, flowed across the lava plains. And it alone has preserved a relic of the latest lava which, after the basalt-plateau had been built up and had been greatly eroded, flowed over the denuded surface in streams of volcanic-glass that found their way into a river-channel and sealed it up.

That the fragments of the basaltic plateau preserved in each member of the group of the Small Isles were once connected as a continuous volcanic plain can hardly be doubted. Indeed, as already stated, they were not improbably united with the plateau of Skye on the north, and with that of Mull, Morven and Ardnamurchan oh the south. Taking the whole space of land and sea within which the basalt of Small Isles is now confined, we may compute it at not much less than 200 square miles. In Eigg, Muck, Canna and Sanday the basalts retain their almost horizontal position, and from underneath them the Jurassic strata emerge in the first of these islands. The central part of the plateau in the island of Rum has suffered greatly from denudation. It now consists of four small outliers of basalt, which lie at levels of 1200 feet and upwards, on the western slope. The basalt is underlain by a thick mass of red Torridon Sandstone, which, with some gneisses and schists, forms the general underlying platform of this island. These rocks are doubtless a continuation of the red sandstone and schists of Sleat, in Skye, and like them have been subjected to those post-Cambrian convolutions and metamorphism whereby the Lewisian Gneiss and Torridon Sandstone have been brought above younger rocks, and have been crushed and rolled out so as to assume a new schistose arrangement. Before the time when volcanic action began, a mass of high ground, consisting of these ancient rocks, stood where the island of Rum is now situated. The streams of basalt spread around it, not only covering the surrounding low tracts of Jurassic rocks, but gradually accumulating against the hills, and thus reducing them both in area and in height above the plain.[246] Viewed from Canna the western coast of Rum presents a striking picture of the general relations of the volcanic masses of the Inner Hebrides and of the enormous denudation which they have undergone (Fig. 267). The Torridon Sandstones are there seen to mount into ranges of hills, capped with outliers of the basalt-plateau, while behind rise the great eruptive bosses of gabbro and granophyre. The edges of the sheets that form the outliers would, if prolonged, cover the northern or lower half of the island, where pre-Cambrian rocks form the surface. In the southern half, the continuity of the basalt has been partly obscured and partly destroyed by the protrusion of the great masses of gabbro that form the singularly picturesque mountain group to which this island owes its prominence as a landmark far and wide along the West Coast of Scotland.

The most varied and interesting of the fragments of the basaltic plateau in the area of the Small Isles is that which forms the island of Canna, with its appendage Sanday. Canna measures five miles in length by from half a mile to a mile in breadth, and consists entirely of the rocks of the plateau and their accompaniments. The basalts are exposed along the north coast in a range of mural precipices rising to a height of about 600 feet above the sea. From the top of that escarpment the ground falls by successive rocky terraces and grassy slopes to the southern shore-line. Sanday, connected with the large island by a shoal and foot-bridge, is two miles long and 220 to about 1200 yards broad. Its highest cliffs range along its southern shore to a height of 193 feet, whence they slope gently northward into the hollow between the two islands. This peculiar topography accounts for the manner in which the geological sections of most interest are distributed.

The first, and still the best, account of the geology of these islands is that of Macculloch. He showed that the rocks all belong to the series of the plateau-basalts, and he described the presence among them of a "trap-conglomerate." He noticed the occurrence also of trap-tuff and the occasional appearance of carbonized wood in these deposits. Reasoning upon these observations in his characteristically vague and verbose manner, "bewildered in the regions of conjecture," he concludes that the basalts instead of belonging to "one general formation" have been successively deposited on the same spot, "since lapse of time is evidently implied in the formation of a conglomerate." He inclines to believe that they have been discharged by ancient volcanoes from which in the course of time all traces of their original outline have been more or less completely removed, the existing basalts being merely fragments of once more extensive masses.[247]

Macculloch regarded the intercalated-conglomerates as having been arranged under water and as marking pauses in the deposition of the sheets of "trap." He gave two diagrams in illustration of the relations of these detrital deposits, but he expressed no definite opinion as to their origin, though from one passage it would seem that he inclined towards the belief that they were formed in the sea.[248] Since his time, so far as I am aware, no fresh light has been thrown upon the subject.

During a yachting cruise in the summer of 1894 I visited Canna for the first time and found so much that was new to me in regard to the history of Tertiary volcanic action, and which demanded a careful survey, that I returned to the locality the following summer and remained in the island until I had mapped it and its dependencies upon the Ordnance Survey sheets on the scale of six inches to a mile. The following narrative is the result of the observations then made.

As far back as the year 1865 I published an account of an ancient river-channel which, during the volcanic period, had been eroded on the surface of the basalt-plateau, and of which a small portion had been preserved under a stream of pitchstone-lava that had flowed into and buried it.[249] This water-course, now marked by the picturesque ridge of the Scuir of Eigg, was shown to have been excavated by a stream which came from the north-east or east, and to be younger, not only than the plateau-basalts of the district, but than even the dykes which cut these basalts. Yet that it belonged to the volcanic period was proved by the manner in which it had been sealed up and preserved under the black glassy lava of the Scuir. Its history and the data from which this history is compiled will be narrated in a later part of this chapter.

My examination of the islands of Canna and Sanday, however, brought to light other and more abundant evidence of river-action in the same region of the Inner Hebrides, but belonging to an earlier part of the volcanic period. This evidence reveals that a powerful river, flowing westwards from the Highland mountains, swept over the volcanic plain, while the sheets of basalt were still being poured forth, and while volcanic eruptions were taking place from cones of slag.

The basalt-plateau of Canna resembles in all essential particulars those of the other Western Isles. Its base is everywhere concealed under the sea, but from the fragments of Torridon Sandstone in its agglomerates we may infer that it probably rests on that formation, like the volcanic outliers in Rum. It is formed of successive sheets of different basalts including the usual banded, amygdaloidal and columnar forms. Some of them towards the west are specially marked by the great abundance and large size of their porphyritic felspars. The magnetic properties of the basalts at the east end of the island have long been known, and have given rise to various modern myths regarding their influence on the compasses of passing vessels.

But it is in its conglomerates, tuffs and agglomerates and the light they cast on some aspects of the volcanic period, elsewhere hardly recorded, that the geology of Canna possesses a special importance. To these, therefore, we may at once turn.

The conglomerates are best developed at the eastern end of the island, where the cliffs present the structure represented in Fig. 268. At the base, and passing under the level of the sea, lies the agglomerate (a) of a vent which will be described in Chapter xli., together with other eruptive orifices of the various plateaux (p. 288). This rock has a somewhat uneven upper surface which rises in places about 150 feet above high tide-mark. Here and there it shades off upward into the conglomerate that overlies it; water-worn pebbles appear among its contents, and rude traces of bedding begin to show themselves, until, within the course of a few feet, we pass upward into an undoubted conglomerate. Elsewhere, however, and particularly along the precipices west of Compass Hill, the two deposits are more distinctly marked off from each other. The agglomerate has there a hummocky, irregular upper surface, as if it had been thrown down in heaps. The hollows between these protuberances have been filled up with conglomerate and sandstone, forming the base of the thick overlying deposit.

It is thus clear that the loose materials of the vent were directly exposed at the surface when the conglomerate was accumulated, and, indeed, that these materials served to supply some of the detritus of which the conglomerate consists. The absence of any trace of a cone and crater at the vent may perhaps be explicable on the supposition that their incoherent material was washed down by the currents that swept along and deposited the conglomerate.

The mass of sedimentary material (b) which overlies the agglomerate of the vent forms a conspicuous feature along the lower half of the precipices at the eastern end of Canna. It rises to a height of 250 to 300 feet above sea-level, and must reach a maximum thickness of probably not less than 100 to 150 feet. It gradually descends in a westward direction, both along the northern cliffs and in the lower ground round Canna Harbour, insomuch that in about a mile, owing to the gentle westerly dip of the whole volcanic series, combined with the effect of a number of small faults, it passes under the level of the sea.

Great variation in the character of the detritus composing this thick group of strata may be observed as it is followed westward. On the cliffs below Compass Hill, as represented in Fig. 268, the coarse conglomerate with water-worn stones, hardly to be distinguished from the volcanic agglomerate of the vent, shows more or less distinct bedding, or at least a succession of coarser and finer bands. Towards its base it encloses numerous pieces of Torridon Sandstone, sometimes subangular, but often so well and smoothly rounded as to show that they must have been long subjected to the action of moving water. It is further observable that, while in the agglomerate the volcanic stones have rough surfaces, those in the conglomerate begin to show increasing evidence of attrition, until, as the deposit is traced upwards, they become almost as well rounded and water-worn as the non-volcanic stones.

Yet amidst and overlying these proofs of transport from some little distance lie abundant huge slags and blocks of amygdaloidal lava, sometimes closely aggregated, sometimes scattered through a volcanic tuff or ashy sandstone. The composition and structure of these stones, and the manner of their dispersion through the deposit, leave little doubt that they were ejected from the vent. We are thus confronted with the interesting fact that, while the materials of the volcanic cone were being washed down by running water, eruptions were still taking place. But by degrees these indications of contemporaneous volcanic activity diminish. The detrital materials become coarser and more distinctly water-rolled until they pass into greenish sandstones and fine conglomerates. Yet the matrix even of these higher sediments is largely composed of fine volcanic detritus, and probably points to occasional discharges of dust and ashes.

Various sills or intrusive sheets have been injected into this sedimentary group along the precipices at the east end of Canna, and form there lenticular bands. One of these (c) is shown in Fig. 268.

Immediately above the massive greenish pebbly sandstone (d) which caps the stratified series lies a group of basalts (e), composed of several distinct beds, having a united thickness of from 80 to 100 feet. The lowest of these has a regular columnar structure, while those overlying it exhibit the confused starch-like grouping of curved and rather indistinctly-formed prisms.

The next band in upward succession is one of conglomerate (f), which runs as a continuous and conspicuous feature along the upper part of the cliff. This rock presents in many respects a strong contrast to the conglomerates underneath. It is dull-green to yellow in colour, and is well stratified, being marked by the interstratification of finer layers, and passing down into a band of pebbly sandstone, which rests immediately on the basalt (e). Its component stones are thoroughly water-worn, ranging up to six inches or even more in length. But its most distinctive character lies in the nature of its pebbles. Instead of consisting mainly of volcanic materials, these stones have almost all been transported for some distance. They include abundant fragments of Torridon Sandstone, gneiss, schists, grits, and other rocks like those in Rum and Western Inverness-shire. No such rocks exist in situ in Canna. The nearest tract of Torridon Sandstone is in Rum, about four miles to the eastward. But the pieces of schist and epidotic grit like the rocks of the Western Highlands, have probably travelled at least 30 miles.

It is important to observe that all these transported stones indicate a derivation from some source lying to the eastward of Canna. The evidence in this respect agrees with that furnished by the ancient river-gravel under the pitchstone of the Scuir of Eigg. It is clear that the waters which found their way across the lava-fields of this part of the Inner Hebrides took their rise somewhere to the eastward, probably among the mountains of Inverness-shire.

The conglomerate now described is from 40 to 50 feet thick. It can be followed along the face of the cliffs for more than a mile on the north side of Canna. Less persistent on the south side, its outcrop strikes from the edge of the precipice inland, keeping to the south of the top of Compass Hill. It is well seen in the ravine above the Coroghon, but cannot be followed further westward among the basalt-terraces. Yet, though this stratified intercalation is not traceable far as a band of conglomerate, the same stratigraphical horizon is probably indicated elsewhere by other kinds of sedimentary deposits, to which further reference will be made in the sequel.

The section now described establishes the existence of at least two successive platforms of conglomerate in the volcanic series. Following these platforms along their outcrop, we obtain additional light on their origin, and on the topographical conditions under which they were deposited, and we learn further that other prolonged intervals, which were likewise marked by intercalations of sedimentary material, occurred in the outpouring of the basalts.

Taking first the lower conglomerate of Compass Hill and tracing it westward, we find it to form the depression in which the sheltered inlet of Canna Harbour lies. It is exposed along the shores and also in the islands enclosed within the same bay. But it is not traceable further west, possibly because it seems to sink beneath the level of the sea. To the south-east, though it is there likewise for the most part concealed under the waves, it rises above them in one or two parts of the coast-line of Sanday, particularly at the Uamh Ruadh or Red Cave, and likewise on a surf-beaten skerry off Ceann an Eilein, the highest part of the Sanday cliffs—a distance of about a mile and a half from Compass Hill. Throughout this space it retains its remarkably coarse character and is mainly made up of volcanic material.

The numerous sections exposed in Canna Harbour enable us to study the composition and local variations of this curious deposit. On the north side of the basin, while the lower part of the sedimentary series continues to be an exceedingly coarse volcanic conglomerate, it passes upward into finer conglomerates, tuffs, and shales. In front of Canna House the imbedded blocks are of large size, occasionally as much as three or four feet in diameter. They are still more gigantic on the island of Eilean a' Bhaird, where I found one to contain 150 cubic feet in the exposed part, the rest being still concealed in the matrix. As they are generally somewhat rounded, here and there markedly so, most of these stones have probably undergone a certain amount of attrition in water. The great majority of them, and certainly all those of larger size, are pieces of basalt, dolerite, andesite, etc. Among them huge blocks of amygdaloid and coarsely vesicular lava are specially abundant. Some of these look like pieces of slag torn from the upper surface of lava-streams. Others, displaying a highly vesicular centre and a close-grained outer crust, are suggestive of bombs. It is interesting to note here again that the amygdaloidal blocks present their zeolitic infiltrations so precisely like those of the amygdaloids of the plateau that it seems reasonable to suppose the carbonate of lime, zeolites, etc. to have been introduced before the blocks were imbedded in the conglomerate.

The whole aspect of this deposit is eminently volcanic. It looks like a vast sheet of lava-fragments swept away from one or more cones of slags and cinders, or from the scoriaceous surface of a lava-stream. Where the vesicles were still empty, the large boulders could be more easily swept along by moving water. But a powerful current must have been needed to transport and wear down into more or less rounded forms blocks of basic lava, many of which must weigh several tons. The large block on Eilean a' Bhaird probably exceeds 12 tons in weight.

Besides the obviously volcanic contents of the conglomerate there occur here also, as in the Compass Hill cliffs, abundant pieces of Torridon Sandstone. These stones are notably smaller in size and more perfectly water-worn and even polished than the blocks of lava. Obviously they have travelled further and have undergone more prolonged attrition.

The matrix of the rock consists essentially of the fine detritus of basic lavas, probably mingled with true volcanic dust. The coarser parts display only the feeblest indication of stratification; indeed, in a limited exposure the rock might be regarded as a tumultuous agglomerate. But the manner in which the deposit is intercalated with, and sometimes overlies, green tuffs and shales, together with the water-worn condition of its stones, shows that it has not been accumulated in a volcanic chimney, but has been thrown down by some powerful body of water, with probably the co-operation of volcanic discharges.

While the composition of the conglomerate suffices to indicate that this deposit was formed at a time when some volcano was active in the immediate neighbourhood, singularly convincing proofs of the work of this vent are to be seen in the form of intercalated sheets of lava. Thus on Eilean a' Bhaird the boulders of the conglomerate are overlain and wrapped round by a sheet of rudely prismatic basalt, with lines of vesicles arranged in the direction of the bedding. A similar relation can be traced along the beach between Canna House and the wooden pier, where successive sheets of basalt have flowed over the conglomerate (Fig. 269).

But, besides coarse volcanic detritus, the sedimentary platform represented by the lower conglomerate of Compass Hill includes other deposits of which good sections may be examined all round Canna Harbour. Beds of fine well-stratified dull-green tuff pass by an admixture of pebbles into fine ashy conglomerate or pebbly sandstone, and by an increase in the proportion of their fine detritus into volcanic mudstone and fine shales. The shales vary from a pale grey or white tone into blackish grey, brown, and black. They are well stratified and are frequently interleaved with layers of fine tuff. The darker bands are carbonaceous, and are not infrequently full of ill-preserved vegetation. Indeed, leaves and stems in a rather macerated condition are of common occurrence in all the shaly layers. Here and there, especially in some ashy shales in front of Canna House, I observed a recognisable Sequoia. The mudstones are dull green, close-grained shattery rocks composed of fine volcanic detritus, and pass both laterally and vertically into shales, tuffs, and conglomerates. They suggest showers of fine dust or streams of volcanic mud. They, too, contain fragmentary plants.

It is a noteworthy fact that the sedimentary intercalations among the Canna basalts generally end upward in carbonaceous shales or coaly layers. The strong currents and overflows of water, which rolled and spread out the coarse materials of the conglomerates, gave way to quieter conditions that allowed silt and mud to gather over the water-bottom, while leaves and other fragments of vegetation, blown or washed into these quiet reaches, were the last of the suspended materials to sink to the bottom. Good illustrations of this sequence in the case of the lower conglomerate zone of Canna may be studied along the shores of Sanday, from the Catholic Chapel eastwards. The fine pebbly sandstones, tuffs, and shales, which there overlie the coarse conglomerate, are surmounted by dark brown or black carbonaceous shale, with lenticles of matted vegetation that pass into impure coal. Immediately overlying this coaly layer comes a sheet of prismatic vesicular basalt, followed by another with an exceedingly slaggy texture.

Lenticles of shale and mudstone likewise occur in the heart of the finer parts of the conglomerate, especially towards the top, as may be seen in the section exposed beneath the basalt behind the first cottage west from Canna House. One of the most interesting layers in this section is a seam of tuff, varying up to about two inches in thickness, which lies at the top of the lenticular band of tuffs and shales, and immediately beneath the band of basalt-conglomerate, on which a basalt, carrying a vesicular band near its bottom, rests. Traced laterally, the dark brown tuff of this seam gradually passes into a series of rounded bodies and flattened shells composed of a colourless mineral which has evidently been developed in situ after the deposition of the tuff. Mr. Harker's notes on thin slices made from this band are as follows:—

"This is a rusty-brown, dull-looking rock, rather soft and seemingly light, but too absorbent to permit of its specific gravity being tested. The dark brown mass is in great part studded with little spheroidal bodies, ¹/₅₀ to ¹/₁₀ inch in diameter, of paler colour, but the larger ones having a dark nucleus. In other parts larger flat bodies have been formed, as if by the coalescence of the spheroids, extending as inconstant bands in the direction of lamination for perhaps ¹/₂ inch, with a thickness of ¹/₁₀ inch or less. The appearance is that of a spherulitic rather than an oolitic structure.

"A slice [6658 A] shows the general mass of the rock to be of an extremely finely divided but coherent substance of brown colour, which can scarcely be other than a fine volcanic dust, composed of minute particles of basic glass or 'palagonite' compacted together. Scattered through this are fragments of crystals recognizable as triclinic and perhaps monoclinic felspars, green hornblende, augite, olivine (?), and magnetite, usually quite fresh.

"The curious spheroidal and elongated growths already mentioned are better seen in another slide [6658 B], where they occupy the larger part of the field, leaving only an interstitial framework of the brown matrix. The substance of the little spheroids is clear, colourless, and apparently structureless. The centre is often occupied by an irregularly stellate patch of brown colour, and sometimes cracks tend to run in radiating fashion, but these are the only indications of radial structure. The outer boundary is sharply defined, and where the slice is shattered the spheroids have separated from the matrix. The matrix is darker than in the normal rock, being obscured by iron-oxide which we may conceive as having been expelled from the spaces occupied by the spheroids. The little crystal-fragments are enclosed in the spheroids as well as in the matrix, but there is no appearance of their having served as starting-points for radiate growths. The flat elongated bodies are like the spheroids, with merely the modifications implied in their different shape.

"The identity of the clear colourless substance seems to be rather doubtful. It is sensibly isotropic and of refractive power distinctly lower than that of felspar. These characters would agree with analcime, which is not unknown as a contact-mineral; but it is difficult to understand how analcime, even a lime-bearing variety like that of Plas Newydd,[250] could be formed in abundance from palagonitic material. An alternative supposition, perhaps more probable, is that the clear substance is a glass, modified from its former nature, especially by the expulsion of the iron-oxide into the remaining matrix. A comparison is at once suggested with certain types of 'Knotenschiefer,' but respecting the thermal metamorphism of fine volcanic tuffs there seems to be little or no direct information."

Lenticular interstratifications of shale and mudstone make their appearance even in the coarser parts of the conglomerate, as may be observed on the beach below Canna House where, as shown in Fig. 269, some shales and tuffs (a) full of ill-defined leaves are surmounted by a conglomerate (b). The deposition of this overlying bed of boulders has given rise to some scooping-out of the finer strata underneath. Subsequently both the conglomerate and shales have been overspread by a stream of dolerite (c), the slaggy bottom of which has ploughed its way through them.

Before discussing the probable conditions under which the group of sedimentary deposits now described was formed, we may conveniently follow the upper conglomerate band of the Compass Hill, and note the variations in structure and composition which its outcrop presents.

This yellowish conglomerate can be traced along the cliffs for more than a mile, when it descends below the sea-level at the solitary stack of Bod an Stòl. A few hundred yards further west, what is probably the same band appears again at the base of the precipice overlain by prismatic basalts. But the conglomerate, here only 12 feet thick, is made of much finer detritus which, largely composed of volcanic material, includes small well-rounded and polished pebbles of Torridon Sandstone. Beneath it lies a bed of dark shale, with remains of plants, resting immediately on a zeolitic amygdaloid which plunges into the sea. The chief interest of this locality is to be found in the shale which, instead of being at the top of the sedimentary group, lies at the bottom. I was informed by Mr. A. Thom that leaves had been obtained from this shale; but I was not successful in my search for them. The locality is only accessible by boat, and, as the coast is fully exposed to the Atlantic swell, landing at the place is usually difficult and often impossible.

About a mile and a half still further west, where a foreshore fronts the precipice of Earnagream at the Camas Tharbernish, a band of intercalated sedimentary material underlies the great escarpment of basalts and rests upon the slaggy sheet with the singular surface already referred to (p. 187). This band not improbably occupies the same platform as the upper conglomerate of Compass Hill. It is only about seven feet thick, the lower four feet consisting of a dull green pebbly tuff or ashy sandstone, with small rounded pieces of Torridon Sandstone, while the upper three feet are formed of dark shale with crowded but indistinct remains of plants. Here the more usual order in the sequence of deposition is restored. The shale is indurated and shattery, so that no slabs can be extracted without the use of quarrying tools.

Rather less than half a mile towards the south, on the roadside at the gully of Cùl nam Marbh, the basalts enclose a sedimentary interstratification which not improbably lies on the same horizon as those just described along the northern shore. The relations of the rocks at this locality are shown in Fig. 270. A remarkable slaggy basalt (a) rises into a hummock, against which have been deposited some fine granular tuffs (b) whereof only a few inches are visible, that pass up into a thin band of dark shale (c), including a layer of pebbly ferruginous tuff, with small rounded pea-like pieces of basalt, basic pumice, bole, limonite, etc. At the top of this shale an irregular parting of coaly material (d) lies immediately under the slaggy base of the succeeding basalt (e). It will be observed that this upper lava cuts out the shale and thus comes to rest directly upon the lower sheet. At the point where it begins to descend it has caught up and enclosed a small tree-stump (d′) which stands upright on the coaly parting and shale. This stump, at the time of my visit, measured five inches in height by three inches in breadth; it had been thoroughly charred and was crumbling away on exposure, but among the pieces which I took from it sufficient trace of structure can be detected with the microscope to show the tree to have been a conifer.

We have here another instance of the deposition of volcanic dust and fine mud in a pool that filled a hollow in the lava-field. Again we see that the closing act of sedimentation was the subsidence of vegetable matter in the pool, which was finally buried under another outflow of basalt.

It is on the southern coast of the isle of Sanday that the higher intercalations of sedimentary material among the basalts are most instructively displayed. At the eastern end of this island, as already stated, the lowest and coarsest conglomerate is visible on a skerry immediately to the south of the headland Ceann an Eilein. It doubtless underlies the Sanday cliffs, but is not there visible, for the basalts descend below sea-level. These volcanic sheets have a slight inclination westward; hence in that direction we gradually pass into higher parts of the series. In the Creag nam Faoileann (Seamews' Crag) and the gully that cuts its eastern end, likewise in the two singularly picturesque stacks of Dùn Mòr and Dùn Beag (Big and Little Gull Rocks), which here rise from the foreshore, two distinct platforms of detrital material may be noticed among the basalts. Both of these can be well seen on Dùn Mòr, about 100 feet high, which is represented in Fig. 271. The lower band, four or live feet thick, is here a rather coarse conglomerate which lies upon a sheet of scoriaceous basalt that extends up to the base of the Creag nam Faoileann. It is directly overlain by another basalt, about 30 feet thick, which dips seawards and forms a broad shelving platform, whereon the tides rise and fall. On this stack a second coarse conglomerate, about 10 feet thick, forms a conspicuous band about a third of the height from the bottom; it is composed mainly of well-rounded blocks of various lavas up to 18 inches or more in diameter, but it contains also pieces of Torridon Sandstone. It is covered by about 60 feet of basalt, which towards the base is somewhat regularly columnar, but passes upward into the wavy, starch-like, prismatic structure.

If now we trace these two intercalated zones of conglomerate along the shore, we find them both rapidly to change their characters and to disappear. The lower, though formed of coarse detritus under the Dùn Mòr, passes on the opposite cliff in a space of not more than 60 yards, into fine tuff and shale, about six feet thick, which become carbonaceous at the top where they are overlain by the next basalt. A hundred yards to the east, the band likewise consists of tuffs and ashy shales, which underlie the basalts on the Dùn Beag, and again show the usual coaly layers at the top. On the east side of the gully in the coast, about 160 yards to the north-east of Dùn Mòr, the same band is reduced to not more than three feet in thickness, consisting chiefly of fine conglomerate, wherein well water-worn pebbles of Torridon Sandstone and epidotic grit appear among the predominant volcanic detritus. This conglomerate is surmounted by a few inches of dark carbonaceous mudstone or shale. Rough slaggy basalts lie above and below the band.

The upper conglomerate dies out, both towards the east and the west, in the cliff opposite to Dùn Mòr, dwindling down at last to merely a few pebbles between the basalts. It lies in a kind of channel or hollow among these lavas. This depression, in an east and west direction, cannot be more than about 65 yards broad.

Probably still higher in the series of basalts is another intercalation of sedimentary layers which may be seen in the little bay to the east of Tallabric, rather more than a mile to the west of the Creag nam Faoileann. It rests upon a coarsely slaggy amygdaloid, and is from six to ten feet in thickness. The lower and larger part of the deposit consists of greenish pebbly sandstone and fine conglomerate, largely composed of basaltic detritus, but including abundant well-smoothed and polished pebbles of Torridon Sandstone, green grit, quartzite, etc. The stones vary from mere pea-like pebbles up to pieces two or three inches long, the largest being generally fragments of slag and amygdaloid which are less water-worn than the sandstones and other foreign ingredients. The uppermost two or three feet of the intercalation consist of dark carbonaceous mudstone or shale, made up in large measure of volcanic detritus, which may have been derived partly from eruptions of fine dust, partly from subærial disintegration of the basalt-sheets. Some layers of these finer strata are full of remains of much macerated plants.

Other thin coaly intercalations have been observed among the basalts of Canna, some of which may possibly mark still higher horizons than those now described. But, confining our attention to the regular sequence of intercalations exposed along the Sanday coast, we find at least four distinct platforms of interstratified sediment among the plateau-basalts of this district. Each of these marks a longer or shorter interval in the outflow of lava, and points to the action of moving-water over the surface of the lava-fields.

We may now consider the probable conditions under which this intervention of aqueous action took place. The idea that the sea had anything to do with these conglomerates, sandstones, and shales may be summarily dismissed from consideration. The evidence that the basalt-eruptions took place on a terrestrial surface is entirely convincing, and geologists are now agreed upon this question.

Excluding marine action, we have to choose among forms of fresh water—between lakes on the one hand and rivers on the other. That the agency concerned in the transport and deposition of these strata was that of a river may be confidently concluded on the following grounds:—

1. The large size and rolled shape of the boulders in the conglomerates. To move blocks several tons in weight, and not only to move them but to wear them into more or less rounded forms, must have required the operation of strong currents of water. The coarse detritus intercalated among the basalts is quite comparable to the shingle of a modern river, which descends with rapidity and in ample volume from a range of hills.

2. The evidence that the materials of the conglomerates are not entirely local, but include a marked proportion of foreign stones. The proofs of transport are admirably exhibited by pieces of Torridon Sandstone, epidotic grit, quartzite, and other hard rocks none of which occur in situ except at some distance from Canna. These stones are often not merely rounded, but so well smoothed and polished as to show that they must have been rolled along for some considerable time in water.

3. The lenticular character and rapid lithological variations of the strata, both laterally and vertically. The coarse conglomerates die out as they are followed along their outcrop and pass into finer sediment. They seem to occur in irregular banks, which may not be more than 200 feet broad, like the shingle-banks of a river. The coarser sediment generally lies in the lower part of the sedimentary group. But cases may be observed, such as that shown in Fig. 269, where fine sediment, laid down upon the bottom conglomerate, has subsequently been overspread by another inroad of coarse shingle. Such alternations are not difficult to understand if they are looked upon as indicating the successive floods and quieter intervals of a river.

For these reasons I regard the platforms of sedimentary materials intercalated among the basalts of Canna and Sanday as the successive flood-plains of a river which, like the rivers that traverse the lava-deserts of Iceland, flowed perhaps in many separate channels across the basalt-fields of the Inner Hebrides, and was liable to have its course shifted from time to time by fresh volcanic eruptions. That this river came from the east or north-east and had its source among the Western Highlands of Inverness-shire, may be inferred from the nature of the stones which it has carried for 30 miles or more along its bed. And that it crossed in its course the tract of Torridon Sandstone, of which a portion still remains in Rum, is manifest from the abundance of the fragments of that formation in the conglomerates.

With the remarkable exception of the section on Dùn Beag, to be immediately referred to, no trace of any eroded channel of this river through the lavas of the great volcanic plain has been preserved. Possibly frequent invasions of its bed by streams of basalt from different vents hindered it from remaining long enough in one course to erode anything like a gorge or canon. But, in any case, the main channel of the river probably lay rather to the east of the present islands of Canna and Sanday, on ground which is now covered by the sea. The banks or sheets of boulder-conglomerate undoubtedly show where its current swept with great force over the lava-plain, but the manner in which these coarser materials are so often covered with fine silt suggests that the sedimentary materials now visible were rather deposited on the low grounds over which the steam rushed in times of flood. Pools of water would often be left after such inundations, and in these depressions silt would gradually accumulate, partly carried in suspension by the river, partly washed in by rain, while drift-wood that found its way into these eddies, and leaves blown into them from the trees and shrubs of the surrounding country, would remain for some time afloat and would be the last of the detritus to sink to the bottom. Hence, no doubt, the carbonaceous character of the hardened silt in the upper part of each intercalation of sediment.

If we were to look upon the volcanic materials in the conglomerates as derived from the subærial disintegration of the fields of basalt, we should be compelled to admit a very large amount of erosion of the surface of the volcanic plain during the period when the river flowed over that tract. It would be necessary to suppose not only that there was a considerable rainfall, but that the differences of temperature, either from day to night, or from summer to winter, were so great as to split up the lavas at the surface, in order to provide the river with the blocks which it has rolled into rounded boulders. I do not think, however, that such a deduction would be sound. If we compare the materials that have filled up the large eruptive vent at the east end of Canna (to be afterwards described) with the great majority of the blocks in the coarse conglomerates, we cannot fail to note their strong resemblance. The abundance of lumps of slaggy lava in the river-shingle corresponds with their predominance in the agglomerate of the vent. The boulders of basalt, dolerite, and andesite which crowd the conglomerates need not have been derived from the action of atmospheric waste on the lava-fields, but might quite well have been mainly supplied by the demolition of volcanic cones of fragmental materials.