The ancients understood well the art of washing and plating articles formed of the inferior metals with gold and silver, as well as many ingenious devices for soldering, mixing, varying the colours, frosting the surface, and inlaying and flowering one metal with another. Statues in Attica were commonly lacquered with gold;[816] and, from the remotest antiquity, the art of gilding appears to have flourished in Greece, since we find mention of it in Homer, who speaks of gilding[817] the horns of victims offered up to the gods. The ancients, unquestionably, employed much thicker gold leaf in this process than the moderns; from which it has been inferred, that they were incapable of reducing it to greater tenuity. But, besides that, when the leaves were too thin, the quicksilver which they employed as a glue appeared through, and dimmed the splendour of the gold, they seem to have aimed at that very duration which causes us to admire the fragments of their gilding that still exist:—in the subterraneous chambers, for example, of the Villa Borghese on the Palatine hill, where the figures in gold scattered over a ground of celestial blue, look as fresh as if just laid on.[818] Metals of all kinds were likewise gilt—as copper, and silver, and bronze. In gilding marble the leaf was attached to the stone with white of egg, which was likewise employed, instead of quicksilver, by dishonest workmen, who could thus make use of a much thinner leaf.[819] The moderns in gilding marble substitute the juice of garlic and figs. The practice of gilding wood and leather was also common in antiquity, as we find mention of gilt wooden statues and beads,[820] and harness, and sandal-thongs. The walls and roofs of chambers were covered, moreover, with gilding, and this ornament was laid as well on wainscot as stucco.[821] The conjecture of a modern writer,[822] that the ancients were acquainted with the art of gilding in ormolu seems to be unfounded.

One of the minor, but most flourishing, branches of the goldsmiths’ trade seems to have been the making and setting of rings,[823] for which the Greeks indulged an extraordinary fondness. They accordingly had them of every form and material. Some persons, for example, wore a plain gold, or silver, or even iron, hoop; others a silver ring encircled by a narrow band of gold, or a gold ring with a band of silver, or an iron ring inlaid with gold.[824] Some persons were satisfied with a bronze ring, or one of gilt iron,[825] which they wore apparently in memory of Prometheus, who, to preserve Zeus’ word unbroken, was fabled to bear on his finger an iron ring set with a piece of Caucasian stone as a signet, so that, by a divine sort of quibble, he might for ever be said to be chained to Caucasus.[826] Others, again, delighted in rings of amber,[827] white or yellow, or ivory, or porcelain, at least these were fashionable in Egypt. Sometimes, they wore silver rings with signets of gold, or the contrary. Mention, too, is made of a ring formed entirely of carnelian, which, to preserve it, was encircled by a narrow hoop of silver, and set with a golden signet.[828]

Jugglers sold to persons of large faith rings[829] that would cure the colic;[830] and articles of this description with magic and talismanic virtues appear to have been at all times abundant and in great request.

Of signets[831] the most ancient would appear to have been small bits of wood, which, having been worm-eaten in a grotesque or fanciful manner,[832] were cut and polished, and used by some rough Thane for a crest, in memory of which practice precious stones were in after ages engraved so as to imitate exactly these rude materials.[833] In process of time nearly every variety of precious stone[834] came to be engraved for rings and seals.[835] Of these the most remarkable was the carbuncle, in colour like a ripe mulberry, which when held up in the sun glows like a flame or burning coal,[836] probably the reason why it was supposed to shine in the dark like a lamp.[837] Under this name many gems known at present by different appellations seem to have been included, as the ruby,[838] whose proper colour is a cochineal red of surpassing richness, admitting, however, occasionally, various intermixtures of blue, producing the rose-red ruby, the former of a full carmine, or rose colour, the latter tinged with a mixture of blue; the rubacelle whose glowing red is dashed with a cast of yellow; the true and the sorane garnet; the rock ruby of a violet red; the almandine and the hyacinth, now confounded with the amethyst. Next to the above was the carnelian[839] of a deep ensanguined hue, chiefly obtained from the island of Sardinia: the jasper of a dark green, with spots of many colours, the sapphire blue bespangled with gold.

Another gem held in high estimation by the ancients was the emerald,[840] the exquisite colour of which, generally the most intense green, was supposed to be more grateful to the eye than the sight of vernal woods or meadows. For this reason many persons selected it for seals in preference to all other stones.[841] Even the lapidaries employed in cutting it were believed to have their vision improved by its refreshing virtues. All emeralds, however, are not of one hue, but exhibit every possible shade of green, from the dusky tint of the olive leaf to the pale verdure of the acacia.[842] The Greek jewellers appear to have judged of the genuineness of this stone by plunging it into clear water: for if it were a true emerald it would, they thought, impart its colour to the whole of the surrounding element; if not, a small part only of it would be tinged.[843]

The ancients possessed a species of bastard emerald, found in vast blocks, so that we read of an emerald obelisk in Egypt, which, though consisting of but four pieces, rose to the height of sixty feet.[844] Of this stone, probably, was the famous pillar which adorned the entrance of the temple of Heracles at Tyre.[845] Of real emeralds the largest known does not exceed six inches in length, and two in diameter. It may be observed, that much pains and labour were expended in bringing the emerald to its lustre.[846]

The lyncurios or modern hyacinth is enumerated among the seal gems.[847] Its colour is that of flame with an intermixture of deep red, though it is sometimes found of a full saffron hue, or even resembling amber. It has by several writers been supposed to be the tourmaline. The lyncurios was exceedingly hard and difficult to work. They likewise cut and engraved for seals the amber, which Theophrastus describes as a native mineral; the hyaloides, the omphax, the crystal,[848] the sardonyx, the agate, the onyx, and the amethyst.[849] A gem of extraordinary beauty was once found in the gold mines of Lampsacos, which, having been engraved by a Tyrian lapidary, was presented to the Persian King.[850]

Respecting the various processes by which precious stones were engraved, the ancients have left us but a few scattered hints. It appears certain, however, that they polished precious stones with emery,[851] and possessed the lapidary’s wheel, with all the finer tools at present in use, including the diamond point,[852] which there is reason to believe they likewise fixed on the wheel.[853] At any rate, they contrived with the instruments they possessed to engrave figures, as of lions, heroes, bacchantes, caryatides, trophies,[854] both in relief and intaglio, which for beauty and delicacy have never yet been equalled. It was at one time a question whether or not they were acquainted with the microscope,[855]—though how they could engrave without it figures which we require its assistance distinctly to perceive, seems somewhat difficult to comprehend. The gem, for example, called the seal of Michael Angelo, in the French king’s cabinet, though it does not exceed half an inch in diameter, contains fifteen figures most elaboratelyelaborately wrought.[856] A private gentleman at Rome possessed a wolf’s tooth on which was a representation of the twelve gods.[857] Cicero commemorates an individual who had written the whole Iliad in characters so minute and in so small a compass, that it could be contained in a walnut-shell.[858] Myrmecides, the Milesian, and Callicrates, the Lacedæmonian, manufactured ivory chariots so small, that they could be covered with the wing of a fly; and wrote two verses in gold letters on a grain of sesame.[859]

We find mention, however, of burning-glasses as early as the age of Socrates;[860] and a number of lenses, more powerful than those employed by our own engravers, have been found among the ruins of Herculaneum.[861] We may here, also, remark by the way, that the Greek astronomers appear to have been acquainted with the telescope.[862]


632. Demosth. in Olymp. § 3. Athen. i. 33. Poll. vii. 177.

633. Herod. iii. 20. Pignor. De Serv. 192. Schol. Aristoph. Acharn. 1015. 1027. Athen. xv. 39. Poll. x. 119.

634. Lucian. Amor. 39.

635. Horat. Carm. ii. 723. Dœring, however, supposes vessels in the shape of shells to be meant.

636. Poll. x. 126.

637. From the way in which this perfumer is mentioned by the comic poets, it may be inferred, that he demanded exceedingly high prices for his commodities. For, in order apparently to tax a person with excessive extravagance, he is said to have purchased unguents of Peron wherewith to anoint the feet of some friend or patron. Athen. xv. 40. xii. 78.

638. Athen. i. 33. xii. 78. xiv. 50. Bochart. Geog. Sac. i. 272, seq. Max. Tyr. p. 10.

639. Athen. xv. 42. Dioscor. 1. 75.

640. Dioscor. 1. 74.

641. Ἀμάρακος. Dioscor. i. 68. Poll. vi. 104.

642. Dioscor. i. 57.

643. Id. i. 53.

644. Id. i. 42.

645. Ἀδιάντον. Theoph. Hist. Plant. vii. 14. 1.

646. Poll. vi. 104.

647. Id. vi. 105. Dioscor. iii. 116.

648. Dioscor. i. 124.

649. Poll. vi. 104. Dioscor. iii. 51. Παρὰ πολλοῖς δὲ τῶν κωμῳδιοποιῶν ὀνομάζεται τι μύρον βάκκαρις· οὗ μνημονεύει καὶ Ἱππώναξ διὰ τούτων·

—Βακκάρει δὲ τὰς ῥῖνας

Ἤλειφον· ἔστι δ᾽ οἵη περ κρόκος.

Athen. Deipnosoph. xv. 41.

650. See on the various inventions of the Athenians, Frid. Creuzer, Orat. de Civit. Athen. Omn. Human. Parent. Francfurt. 1826.

651. This we are told the person itself of Alexander did, being by nature scented like a nosegay. Plut. Alexand. § 4. The same thing is related of Catherine de Medicis, and Lord Herbert of Cherbury. Blumenbach’s Physiology, Note. p. 182.

652. Cf. Il. ζ. 288. Athen. vi. 67. Poll. vi. 104. Plat. Rep. iii. p. 203. Stallb.

653. Athen. xv. 44.

654. Dioscor. i. 18.

655. Lucian. Dial. Meret, xiv. § 2.

656. Κρόκος. Dioscor. i. 64.

657. Æl. Spart. Vit. Adrian. c. 18. p. 16.

658. Lucan. Pharsal. 809.

659. Ἀβροτόνον. Dioscor. i. 60.

660. Οἰνάνθαι. Dioscor. i. 56. Theoph. de Caus. Plant. iii. 14. 8.

661. Dioscor. i. 63.

662. Ἄνηθον Dioscor. i. 61. Theoph. Hist. Plant. vii. 1. 2.

663. Dioscor. Noth. p. 442. d.

664. Dioscor. iv. 23. Cf. Plin. xiii. 1.

665. Dioscor. i. 55. 150.

666. From which the unguent obtained the name of βουτύρινον. Dioscor. i. 64.

667. Βρύον. Dioscor. i. 20.

668. Dioscor. i. 17.

669. Athen. xv. 42. To this perfume Strattis alludes in his Medea:—

——Καὶ λέγ’, ὅτι μύρον φέρεις αὐτῇ
Τοιοῦτον, οἷον οὐ Μέγαλλος πώποτε
Ἥψησεν, οὐδὲ Δινίας Αἰγύπτιος
Οὔτ᾽ εἶδεν, οὔτ᾽ ἐκτήσατο.—

670. Poll. vi. 104. Athen. xv. 42.

671. Poll. vi. 104. Athen. xv. 43.

672. Poll. vi. 104.

673. Dioscor. i. 24.

674. Id. i. 53.

675. We do not hear, however, that they carried their rage against nature so far as certain Parisian dames commemorated by Montaigne, Essais, t. iii. p. 29, sqq. “Qui n’a ouy parler à Paris de celle, qui se fit escorcher pour seulement en acquérir le teint plus frais d’une nouvelle peau? Il y en a qui se sont fait arracher des dents vives et saines, pour en former la voix plus molle, et plus grasse, ou pour les ranger en meilleur ordre. Combien d’examples du mespris de la douleur avons nous en ce genre? Que ne peuvent-elles? Que craignent-elles pour peu qu’il y ait d’agencement à espérer en leur beauté?

‘Vellere queis cura est albos à stirpe capillos,
Et faciem demptâ pellere referre novam.’
Tibull. i. 9. 45, seq.

“J’en ay veu engloutir du sable, de la cendre, et ce travailler à point nommé de ruiner leur estomac pour acquérir les pasles couleurs. Pour faire un corps bien espagnolé, quelle géhenne ne souffrent-elles, guindées et sanglées avec de grosses coches sur les costez, jusques à la chair vive? Ouy quelquefois à en mourir.”

676. Poll. v. 102.

Μὴ τοίνων τὸ πρόσωπον ἅπαν ψιμύθῳ κατάπλαττε,
Ὥστε προσοπεῖον, κ’ οὐχι πρόσωπον ἔχειν.
Anthol. Græc. xi. 408.

677. The pigment with which the interior of the eyelid is blackened at present is the soot of Ladanum, or incense, which the ladies themselves procure by casting a few grains of those precious substances upon coals of fire, and intercepting the smoke with a plate, on which the soot speedily accumulates. Chandler, ii. 140.

678.

Τὴν κεφαλὴν βάπτεις, τὸ δὲ γῆρας οὔποτε βάψεις
Οὔδὲ παρειάων ἐκτανύσεις ῥυτίδας.
Anthol. Græc. xi. 408.

679. See Book iii. chapter v. and Pollux, v. 102.

680. Ῥόδον παρειαῖς φυτεύει, αὐθωρὸν ἀνθοῦν, καὶ θᾶττον ἀπανθοῦν κατὰ τὸ Λοκρὸν. Poll. v. 102. This fugitive species of rose is alluded to by Lycophron, in his Cassandra, 1429:

Λοκρὸν δ᾽ ὁποῖα παῦρον ἀνθήσας ῥόδον.

See the note of Meursius, t. iii. p. 1347. ed. C. G. Müller; and Jungermann ad Poll. t. iv. p. 1010.

681. To this Lucillius alludes in the Anthology:

Οὔποτε φῦκος
Καὶ ψίμυθος τεύξει τὴν Ἑκάβην Ἑλένην.
Anthol. Græc. xi. 408.

682. Poll. v. 101.

683. Cf. Theoph. Hist. Plant. vii. 8. 3.

684. Poll. v. 101. vii. 95.

685. Ion, in his Omphalè. Poll. v. 101. Luc. Amor. 39.

686. Dioscor. i. 93. And lamp-black. Alex. Frag. ap. Athen. xiii. 23. Cf. Luc. Bis Accus. § 31.

687. Dioscor. i. 101.

688. Ἡ λιθοκόλλα, μίγμα οὖσα μαρμάρου ἢ λίθου Παρίου καὶ ταυροκόλλης, δύναται διὰ μηλωτίδος πεπυρωμένης τρίχας ἀνακολλᾷν τὰς ἐν ὀφθαλμοῖς. Dioscor. v. 164.

689. Dioscor. v. 137.

690. Id. v. 175.

691. Id. i. 12.

692. Id. ii. 101.

693. Id. ii. 189.

694. Id. i. 77.

695. Τῆλις. Id. i. 57.

696. Ἄμπέλος μελαίνα. Dioscor. iv. 185.

697. Id. iii. 102.

698. Id. i. 15.

699. Id. v. 97.

700. Dioscor. ii. 132.

701. Id. ii. 137.

702. Id. ii. 21. 97.

703. Ἄλυσσον. iii. 105.

704. Dioscor. ii. 200.

705. Id. i. 13.

706. Id. ii. 125.

707. Id. i. 128.

708. Id. i. 1.

709. Id. iv. 150.

710. Id. ii. 102.

711. Id. ii. 181.

712. Id. ii. 107.

713. Id. i. 101.

714. Id. i. 176.

715. Id. iv. 183. From the roots of the wild vine, also, a kind of paste was prepared, which was thought to cleanse the skin, and remove pimples and freckles. Theoph. Hist. Plant. ix. 20. 3.

716. Dioscor. iii. 116.

717. Id. ii. 55.

718. Id. ii. 93.

719. Id. i. 6.

720. Id. i. 130.

721. These pastilles (τροχίσκοι) were about three oboloi in weight, and the purpose for which they were worn is thus stated by Dioscorides:—χρῆσις δὲ αὐτωναὐτων ἐστιν, ἐπὶ γυναικῶν περιτιθεμένων τῳ τραχήλῳ ἀντὶ ὁρμῶν, ἀμβλυνουσῶν τὴν τῶν ἱδρώτων δυσωδίαν. i. 131.

722. Lucian. Amor. § 39. The beauty, however, of the Grecian ladies’ teeth was remarkable. Luc. Imag. § 9. False teeth were fastened in with gold wire. Rhet. Præcept. § 24.

723. Dioscor. ii. 4.

724. Id. v. 149.

725. Id. v. 125.

726. Id. ii. 77.

727. Ear-picks were commonly of olive-wood. Poll. ii. 102.

728. Dioscor. i. 89.

729. Ἐὰν τις ἑψήσας ἐν ζωμῷ ἢ ἐν ἄλλῳ τινὶ τὸ ἔξωθεν τοῦ μήλου ἐκπιέση εἰς τὸ στόμα καὶ καταροφήση, ποιεῖ τὴν ὀσμὴν ἡδεῖαν Theoph. Hist. Plant. iv. 4. 2. Dioscor. i. 166.

730. Dioscor. i. 64.

731. Id. i. 179.

732. Plut. Nic. § 30.

733. These irons were heated in the ashes. Pignor. de Servis, p. 194. Cf. Poll. ii. 31.

734. Luc. adv. Indoct. § 29. In Asia Minor, where numbers of ancient customs still linger, congealed blood is often used for shaving instead of soap. Chandler, i. 96. Can this practice plead a classical origin?

735. Cf. Artemid. Oneirocrit. ii. 7. p. 88. Gitone, Il Costume Antico e Moderno di tutti i Popoli, t. i. p. 24. Tav. 15.

736. We learn from an anecdote of Crates, that these barbers, like their descendants in modern times, were accustomed to envelope their patients in linen or cotton cloths. The Cynic, thinking proper one day to walk the streets in his shirt, was reprimanded by the Astynomos. “I will show you Theophrastus in a similar garb,” he replied. “Where?” inquired the magistrate. “There!” answered Crates, pointing to a barber’s shop where the philosopher was undergoing the operation of shaving. Diog. Laert. vi. 90.

737. Lucian. adv. Indoct. § 29. Cf. Poll. ii. 27.

738. Zoëga, Bassi Rilievi. ii. 239.

739. Cf. Plut. Thes. §. 5.

740. Vid. Il. δ. 533. Plut. Thes. § 5. Dion Chrysost. i. 261, seq. Κάλυμμα. Aristoph. Lysist. 530. et Schol. Eq. 578.

741. Schol. Aristoph. Acharn. 118. The practice of shaving does not appear to have grown common until the times of Alexander of Macedon. Athen. xiii. 18.

742. Sch. Aristoph. Eq. 631. Casaub. ad Theoph. Char. p. 115. Luc. Dial. Meret. xii. § 5. Poll. ii. 30. Dutens, in his Origines des Découvertes attribuées aux Modernes, p. 290, seq. has collected an ill-digested heap of materials on ancient wigs, principally, however, on those of the Romans.

743. Pignor. De Serv. p. 193.

744. Ὅλα δὲ καέντα λεῖα μετὰ ἀξιουγγίου ἢ στέατος ἀρκτείου, ἀλωπεκίας ἐπιχρισθέντα δασύνει. Dioscor. i. 169.

745. Dioscor. ii. 181. Maidenhair, black and white, pounded in oil to the consistence of a paste, prevented the hair from falling off. Theoph. Hist. Plant. vii. 14. 1.