IN the last chapter instructions were given when to put on boxes, but it is important to know more about this subject, the kind of boxes to use, etc. I shall recommend two sizes, two pound and one pound. The larger size, with glass sides and ends, top and bottom, and corners wood; the smaller size, all wood.
Seventy-six of the small size and thirty-eight of the large size will fit each Controllable Hive, or part of each size can be used on the same hive at same time. The large boxes are just wide enough to contain two combs; the small ones, one comb. These boxes fit the sides and top of Controllable Hive. The bees enter the top boxes through spaces in bottom of the box. They enter the side boxes through spaces at the ends of the boxes. (For a more particular description of the boxes and their adjustment to the hives, see Drawings or a Complete Controllable Hive.)
Before giving the bees access to the boxes, stick a piece of comb or comb foundation in the top of each box where you wish the combs built, a piece one or two inches square to hold them firmly in place. Melt resin and bees wax equal parts, dip the edges in the mixture and apply while hot.
Honey in these boxes is very attractive, and is sought for in the market by customers who have purchased in this form. Honey put up in these nice boxes shows its superior quality at a glance, and customers prefer to purchase in such boxes with no tare deducted for weight of box, to purchasing in the ordinary wood box with the weight of the box deducted.
In taking these boxes from the hive,[3] when filled with honey, in warm weather I recommend the following method: Take the boxes off early in the morning, and carry them to some out-building, and put them in a clean, tight box or barrel; place the boxes in such a manner that the openings in the boxes will be free for the passage of the bees from them. Spread over the box or barrel, a thin piece of cloth. The bees will leave the boxes and collect on the under side of the cloth, which must be turned every few minutes, until all are out, except a few drones and very young bees; these can be taken out with a pencil. To facilitate the removal of the bees from the boxes, if any are obstinate about leaving, remove the glass in the sides of the boxes, if the cover is not fastened to it. The greater part of the bees from these boxes will return to their hives; excepting a very few young ones which had never before been away from the hive; these will be lost.
[3] When the box frames or partitions are taken out in the honey season, the bees will often, if the stock is strong, spread out over the bottom, so that in putting the frame in, a large number will get crushed. To prevent this, get out two pieces of wood, each about one and one-half inches wide, and one-fourth inch thick, one eighteen inches long the other twenty-two Inches long; one edge of the long piece bevel to a thin edge, about the shape of a carpenter's chisel. Nail the long piece in the center to the end of the short piece at right angles with it, with the beveled edge down, so the beveled edge will be level with the end of the short piece; also bevel the lower end of the short piece. When the bees are spread over the bottom of the box section, with this instrument push them gently back to the brood section. To do this thrust the instrument down into the box section with the beveled edge down; taking hold of the end of the short piece or handle, work the bees gently back to the brood section, and when close up to the combs of the hive, let it remain to keep the bees from spreading over the bottom till you get the box frame down in its place, then remove it, and push the box frame up close to the brood section, so the ends of the boxes will be as near the brood combs as the partition was when the combs were built. If this is not done, and a large space is left, the bees will either lengthen the cells in the outer comb of the brood section, or build a new comb between the ends of the boxes and the outer comb of the brood section. In either case we would find it very troublesome when we remove the boxes, and wish to put in the partition for wintering. Be sure to put the large box frame up close to the combs of the brood section, that is leave barely space enough for the bees to pass between the ends of the boxes and the outer comb of the brood section.
When boxes are to be taken off, use tobacco smoke freely, to quiet the anger of the bees. Puff smoke in at the entrance of the hive, before you touch it, then start the top boxes from their fastenings, giving the bees a puff or two of smoke at every crevice about the boxes at the top and sides.
Considerable care is necessary for the preservation of honey in boxes removed from the hives in warm weather. As soon as the bees are all out of the boxes, seal up all openings to the boxes, and set them away (in the same position they occupied in the hive, so the honey will not leak from the cells) in a dry, dark, cool room. We must now guard against the moth.
As in warm weather the instincts of the fly is directed to the dead carcass, so is the moth directed to honey-comb left without bees in the summer season, and by a similar process is each destroyed. When the bees have been off about ten days, or perhaps a little less if the weather is very warm, examine closely for the first appearance of the moth worms on the surface of the combs in the boxes. Their presence may be known by small thread-like webs or cocoons on the surface of the comb, growing larger as the moth worm enlarges in growth. If no remedy is applied, these worms will completely destroy the beauty of the honey in the boxes in a very few days. Watch the boxes closely, and on the first appearance of the least sign of worms in the boxes fumigate with burning sulphur, thus: Open the passages in the boxes; have ready a tight, clean box; saturate some very dry pine shavings with melted sulphur. After placing your boxes of honey in the box, set a saucer or plate in the box at the bottom, away from the honey boxes, so they will not take fire. Do not use too many shavings; if you do it will injure the honey comb in the boxes, by giving it a green color, and imparting to it a disagreeable taste; a half dozen shavings each four inches long is enough. Place them in the dish and ignite them, and cover closely, so no fumes can escape; let them remain for a few minutes,—not more than five, less is often sufficient; it depends something on the amount of sulphur adhering to the shavings, as well as the size of box, number of boxes to be fumigated, etc. With a little practice you will manage correctly and successfully. As soon as the boxes are fumigated, seal up every opening carefully, and set away as before directed, in a dry, dark, cool room. Watch the boxes for a few days, to be sure the worms are all killed. If you find they are not, give them another dose of the sulphur. After the worms are all killed, and every opening to the box sealed up, wrap each box separately in paper, and they will be safe through the summer.
How the eggs of the moth get into the boxes, has always puzzled bee keepers. It is hardly possible for the moth miller to pass through a hive crowded with bees, to deposit her eggs in the crowded boxes. How they get there must be guess-work—that they are there is well known to many bee keepers. I feel very confident that the eggs are deposited there after the boxes are taken from the hive, and while we are getting the bees out of the boxes.