One of the difficulties that beset the juvenile kite-flyer is the inability to get the kite to rise from the ground unless there is a fairly good wind blowing. Even then the services of an assistant are required, whilst numerous trials to adjust the amount of weight on the tail, the position of the carrying thread on the kite, and the distance required to be run to get the artificial wind to enable the kite to rise above the surrounding buildings, are difficulties that damp the enthusiasm of the most inveterate kite-flyer.

To the kites sold in the shops the foregoing remarks apply. They are too heavy, and are suitable for flying at the seaside only. To make the sport interesting, the kite should fly in the least wind, and should be so made as to fly from the hand, the thread or string being paid out as the kite rises. It should be perfectly balanced so as to be stable in the most erratic wind. The kites shown in the accompanying illustrations, if made to the directions, will fulfil all the above conditions, and at the same time be easy of construction. The dimensions can be varied in proportion; but the would-be maker is advised to stick to the given sizes for the first attempt.

The Hargreaves kite (Fig. 172) is the simplest. The frame (Fig. 173) consists of a straight length of yellow pine A, to which is attached a cross piece of cane B. This cross piece is made by cutting a thin cane and splitting it, trimming the edges off until nearly square in section, and then bending it over a small gas flame. As it gets hot, bend it gently by grasping the ends in each hand. Pass it to and fro in the low flame, and it will be found to give. Bend it evenly and allow to cool, when it will remain in this shape. Find the centre and ascertain if the bend is equal on each side by measuring as shown in Fig. 174. This being so, notch A and B (Fig. 173) slightly where they cross, and assemble, applying a little glue and lapping with cotton. Join the ends of the bent limb with linen thread, and also take a thread round the frame, securing it at each extremity in a notch with the addition of glue.

When dry the frame is covered with paper. The very thin coloured paper used for making artificial flowers is just the thing. Gum it on with a thin flour paste, and allow very little overlap, keeping the paper as free from crinkles as possible. Cut a disc of stout paper, and gum it over the frame at the crossing. This is to strengthen the paper at this point, as the attached thread is liable to make a wide hole. Secure a yard of strong thread at the crossing, and when dry the kite can be tested. If all is right the result will be eminently satisfactory, the kite flying from the hand like a bird, no tail whatever being needed.

For decorative purposes a short fish tail and fins can be added, or a rubber balloon can be used as a tail.

The box kite shown by Fig. 175 is not more difficult to construct than the kite previously described. It flies with equal facility, and is quite as steady. Being made collapsible it can be rolled in a small compass.

To make the kite, paste two of the coloured sheets together to form a continuous length, and spread on the floor. Cut the four uprights of yellow pine to the correct length and thickness, and having liberally glued them, place them on the paper as shown in Fig. 176, and paste a long strip over them on to the paper underneath. This is to strengthen the paper round the uprights. When dry and firm, which does not take long if the glue is put on tacky, the loose end of the paper can be joined to the upright to form a hollow long box.

Now cut four thin lengths of wood to form cross-pieces, secured together with a pin through the centre (see Fig. 177). Notch the ends and open them out so as to fit inside the box between the uprights. Fit one to each end, and then secure the upright ends with a linen thread pulled tightly from one to the other, and tied and glued at each end. This takes the strain of the cross piece off the paper, and at the same time provides a support for the paper, which is clapped round it and gummed on to itself.

The kite having been completed, a short length of thin string is attached about 3 in. from one end of one of the uprights. To this the thread for flying is attached. This kite will fly quite well with the thread attached to the very end of the upright, so that there is no fixed position for it to a fraction of an inch. The nearer it is brought to the centre, the more unstable the kite becomes. In a moderate wind, with the thread attached to the top, the kite tends to ascend more vertical than it would otherwise.

Fig. 177A shows another simple form of box kite. It is made from four strips of straight grained wood (preferably spruce), 2 ft. 6 in. by ⅜ in. by ½ in. Obtain also four other pieces, each 1 ft. 7½ in. long, but ¹/₁₆ in. wider and thicker than the foregoing, and halve their ends to a depth of ⅛ in. by ¼ in., in order that when the false end A (Fig. 177B) is tightly bound on, these cross sticks will firmly grip the long pieces edgewise; the sides of the cell are indicated by dotted lines. It is advisable to make the cross-pieces a trifle long, to ensure their straining the kite to its correct form.