NUTT'S COLLATERAL HIVE. No. 1.

The late Mr. Nutt, author of "Humanity to Honey Bees," may be regarded as a pioneer of modern apiarians; we therefore select his hive wherewith to begin a description of those we have confidence in recommending. Besides, an account of Mr. Nutt's hive will necessarily include references to the various principles which subsequent inventors have kept in view.

Nutt's Collateral Hive consists of three boxes placed side by side (C. A. C), with an octagonal box B on the top which covers a bell-glass. Each of the three boxes is 9 inches high, 9 inches wide, and 11 inches from back to front; thin wooden partitions,—in which six or seven openings corresponding with each other are made—divide these compartments, so that free access from one box to the other is afforded to the bees; this communication is stopped when necessary by a zinc slide passing down between each box. The octagonal cover B is about 10 inches in diameter and 20 high, including the sloping octagonal roof, surmounted with an acorn as a finish. There are two large windows in each of the end boxes, and one smaller one in the centre box; across the latter is a thermometer scaled and marked, so as to be an easy guide to the bee-master, showing him by the rise in temperature the increased accommodation required. This thermometer is a fixture, the indicating part being protected by two pieces of glass, to prevent the bees from coming between it and the window, and thereby obstructing the view.

D D are ventilators. In the centre of each of the end boxes is a double zinc tube reaching down a little below the middle, the outer tube is a casing of plain zinc, with holes about a quarter of an inch wide dispersed over it; the inside one is of perforated zinc, with openings so small as to prevent the escape of the bees, a flange or rim keeps the tubes suspended through a hole made to receive it. The object in having double tubing, is to allow the inner one to be drawn up and the perforations to be opened by pricking out the wax, or rather the propolis, with which bees close all openings in their hives. These tubes admit a thermometer enclosed in a cylindrical glass, to be occasionally inserted during the gathering season; it requires to be left in the tube for about a quarter of an hour; and on its withdrawal, if found indicating 90 degrees or more, ventilation must be adopted to lower the temperature—the ornamental zinc top D must be left raised, and is easily kept in that position by putting the perforated part a little on one side.

The boxes before described are placed on a raised double floor-board, extending the whole length, viz., about 36 inches. The floor-board projects a few inches in front. In the centre is the entrance;—as our engraving only shows the back of the hive, we must imagine it on the other side,—it is made by cutting a sunken way of about half-an-inch deep and 3 inches wide, in the floor-board communicating only with the middle box; it is through this entrance alone that the bees find their way into the hive,—access to the end boxes and the super being obtained from the inside. An alighting board is fitted close under the entrance for the bees to settle upon when returning laden with honey; this alighting board is removable for the convenience of packing. The centre, or stock-box, A, called by Mr. Nutt the Pavilion of Nature, is the receptacle for the swarm; for stocking this, it will be necessary to tack the side tins so as to close the side openings in the partition, and to tack some perforated zinc over the holes at top; the swarm may then be hived into it just the same as with a common hive. A temporary bottom-board may be used if the box has to be sent any distance; or a cloth may be tied round to close the bottom (the latter plan is best, because allowing plenty of air), and when brought home at night, the bees being clustered at the top, the cloth or temporary bottom must be removed, and the box gently placed on its own floor-board, and the hive set in the place it is permanently to occupy. E E are two block fronts which open with a hinge, a semicircular hole 3 inches long, 2 wide in the middle, is cut in the upper bottom-board immediately under the window of each box; these apertures are closed by separate perforated zinc slides; these blocks, when opened, afford a ready means of reducing the temperature of the side boxes, a current of air being quickly obtained, and are also useful for allowing the bees to throw out any refuse.

The centre F is a drawer in which is a feeding trough, so constructed that the bees can descend through the opening before mentioned on to a false bottom of perforated zinc; liquid food is readily poured in by pulling out the drawer a little way, the bees come down on to the perforated zinc and take the food by inserting their proboscis through the perforations, with no danger of being drowned. Care must be exercised that the food is not given in such quantity as to come above the holes; by this means, each hive has a supply of food accessible only to the inmates, with no possibility, when closely shut in, of attracting robber bees from other hives.

The exterior of these hives is well painted with two coats of lead colour, covered with two coats of green, and varnished. Notwithstanding this preservation, it is absolutely essential to place such a hive under a shed or cover of some sort, as the action of the sun and rain is likely to cause the wood to decay, whilst the extreme heat of a summer sun might cause the combs to fall from their foundations.

Neat and tasteful sheds may be erected, either of zinc supported by iron or wooden rods, or a thatched roof may be supported in the same manner, and will form a pretty addition to the flower garden.

When erecting a covering, it will be well to make it a foot or two longer, so as to allow of a cottage hive on either side, as the appearance of the whole is much improved by such an arrangement.

The following directions, with some adaptation, are from "Nutt on Honey Bees:"—

In the middle box the bees are to be first placed;—in it they should first construct their beautiful combs, and under the government of one sovereign—the mother of the hive—carry on their curious work, and display their astonishing architectural ingenuity. In this box, the regina of the colony, surrounded by her industrious, happy, humming subjects, carries on the propagation of her species, deposits in the cells prepared for the purpose by the other bees, thousands of eggs, though she seldom deposits more than one egg in a cell at a time: these eggs are nursed up into a numerous progeny by the other inhabitants of the hive. It is at this time, when hundreds of young bees are daily coming into existence, that the collateral boxes are of the utmost importance—both to the bees domiciled in them, and to their proprietors; for when the brood become perfect bees in a common cottager's hive, a swarm is the necessary consequence. The queen, accompanied by a vast number of her subjects, leaves the colony, and seeks some other place in which to carry on the work nature has assigned her. But as swarming may by proper precaution and attention to this mode of management generally be prevented, it is good practice to do so; because the time necessarily required to establish a new colony, even supposing the cottager succeeds in saving the swarm, would otherwise be employed in collecting honey, and in enriching the old hive. Here, then, is one of the features of this plan—viz., the prevention of swarming. When symptoms of swarming begin to present themselves, which may be known by an unusual noise, the appearance of more than common activity among the bees in the middle box, and, above all, by a sudden rise of temperature, which will be indicated by the quicksilver in the thermometer rising to 75 degrees as scaled on the thermometer in the box; when these symptoms are apparent, the bee master may conclude that additional space is required. The top sliding tin should now be withdrawn from under the bell glass, which will open to the bees a new store-room; this they will soon occupy, and fill with combs and honey of pure whiteness, if the weather be fine to allow of their uninterrupted labour. It may be well here to mention, that if the glass have a small piece of clean worker comb attached to the perforated ventilating tube, the bees will more speedily commence their operations in it. When the glass is nearly filled, which in a good season will be in a very short space of time, the bees will again require increased accommodation; this will also be indicated by the thermometer further rising to 85; the end box, as thereon marked, must now be given them. Previously to drawing up a slide to enlarge their crowded house, the manager should take off the empty end box he intends to open to them, carefully and thoroughly cleanse it, and then smear or dress the inside of it with a little liquid honey. Thus prepared, he must return the box to its proper situation, and then withdraw the sliding tin that hitherto has cut it off from the middle box; by so doing the store-room is again enlarged. The bees will commence operations in this new apartment. This simple operation, done at the proper time, generally prevents swarming; by it, the queen gains a vast addition to her dominions, and, consequently, increasing space for the multiplying population of her domicile. Provided the weather continue fine, and the thermometer has risen to 95 degrees, as marked on the scale, the remaining tin may be also withdrawn, thereby giving the bees, admittance to another box; there is now no lack of store-rooms nor of employment for our indefatigable labourers. The cylinder thermometer is required to be occasionally dropped into the ventilating tube of the side boxes to ascertain their temperature; for if exceeding or approaching that of the middle box, it must be reduced by ventilating; this is done by raising the zinc tops, to allow the air to pass through the perforations. The grand object of this system is to keep the end boxes and the bell glass cooler than the pavilion or middle box, so as to induce the queen to propagate her species there and there only, and not in the depriving part of the hive; by this means the side and upper combs are in no way discoloured by brood. The queen requires a considerable degree of warmth; the middle box does not require more ventilation than the additional openings afford. The bees enjoy coolness in the side boxes, and thereby the whiteness and purity of the luscious store are increased.

After having given directions for the working of the hive, it remains to be told how to obtain possession of the store, and to get rid of our industrious tenants from the super and end boxes, of which the super glass will be almost sure to be filled first, having been first given to them. The operation of taking honey is best performed in the middle of a fine sunny day. The best mode that we know of is to pass an ordinary table-knife all round underneath the rim of the glass to loosen the cement, properly called propolis; then take a piece of fine wire, or a piece of string will do, and, having hold of the two ends, draw it under the glass very slowly, so as to allow the bees to get out of the way. Having brought the string through, the glass is now separated from the hive; but it is well to leave the glass in its place for an hour or so, the commotion of the bees will then have subsided; and another advantage we find is, that the bees suck up the liquid and seal up the cells broken by the cutting off. You can then pass underneath the glass two pieces of tin or zinc; the one may be the proper slide to prevent the inmates of the hive coming out at the apertures, the other tin keeps all the bees in the glass close prisoners. After having been so kept a short time, the apiarian must see whether the bees in the glass manifest symptoms of uneasiness, because if they do not, it may be concluded that the queen is among them. In such a case, replace the glass, and recommence the operation on a future day. It is not often that her majesty is in the depriving hive or glass; but this circumstance does sometimes happen, and the removal at such a time must be avoided. When the bees that are prisoners run about in great confusion and restlessness, the operator may then conclude that the queen is absent, and that all is right. The glass may be taken away a little distance off, and placed in a flower-pot or other receptacle where it will be safe when inverted and the tin taken away, then the bees will be glad to make their escape back to their hive. A little tapping at the sides of the glass will render their tarriance uncomfortable, and the glass may then be taken into a darkened room or out-house with only a small aperture admitting light which must be open; the bees, like all insects, make towards the light and so escape. The bee-master should brush them off with a feather from the comb as they can be reached; but on no account, if there are many bees, should the glass be left, because the bees that are in the glass will gorge themselves to their full and speedily bring a host of others from the adjacent hives, who, in a very little time, would leave only the empty combs. It is truly marvellous how soon they will carry all the store back again, if allowed to do so. An empty glass should be put on to the hive in place of the full one, as it will attract the bees up, thereby preventing the too close crowding of the hive; and, if the summer be not too far advanced, they will work more honey-comb in it.

The taking away of the end boxes is a somewhat similar process; but they should on no account be taken at the same time as the glass, or indeed at the same time as any other hive may be—robbed we were going to say, for it is robbery to the bees,—they intended the honey for their winter food, and are much enraged at being deprived of it. First shut down the dividing tin; the bees in the end box are now prisoners separated from the hive, keep them so half an hour, then take away the box bodily to another part of the garden, or into the dark out-house as before recommended.

It may not be out of place here to say something respecting the enthusiastic inventor of the Collateral Hive—Thomas Nutt, who was an inhabitant of Spalding, in Lincolnshire. Having been disabled during a considerable period by rheumatic fever, he devoted all his attention to bees, at a time when bee-culture was but little valued; and, although it must be admitted that two boxes were used side by side long before Mr. Nutt's day, still it is due to him to state that the adoption of three boxes was entirely his own idea, and that as far as he then knew, the collateral system was his original invention. His statements have been severely criticised, and it does appear that the weight of honey which he names as having been produced in one season is perfectly incredible. But as in the district where he lived there is grown an immense quantity of mustard seed—the flowers of which afford excellent forage for bees—the honey harvests there, would doubtless, be very large. If Mr. Nutt has given his little favourites too much praise, it will be only charitable, now, to account for his statements by an excess of zeal and enthusiasm in this his study of bee-culture. It may be that the golden harvests he spoke and wrote of have been so far useful that they have induced many to commence bee-keeping, some of whom, whilst they condemned his statements, have themselves written really useful and practical works on the subject, which otherwise might possibly never have appeared. As the monks of old kept the lamp of religion burning, however dimly, until a more enlightened age, so Thomas Nutt may have assisted in a somewhat similar manner by energetically propounding his views, and thereby causing other apiarians to rise up whose names are now as familiar to us as household words, and whose works posterity will value. The writer of these pages has often accompanied Mr. Nutt on his visits to his patrons in the neighbourhood of London, and seen him perform his operations regardless of the anger of bees, and free from all fear of their stings. He often expatiated on the cruelty of the brimstone match and suffocation, denouncing the barbarous custom in the following terms:—"You may as well kill the cow for her milk, or the hen for her eggs, as the bee for its honey; why continue to light the fatal match, when every cottager in England has the means of saving this most useful and valuable insect?"

NEIGHBOUR'S IMPROVED SINGLE BOX HIVE. No. 2.

We have introduced the "Single Box Hive" to suit the convenience of those who, though desirous of keeping bees on the improved principle, do not wish to incur the expense or devote the space which is necessary for Nutt's hive.

It consists of a lower or stock-box A., 11 inches square, 9 inches deep, with three large windows, a thermometer D, as in Nutt's, being fixed across the front one, protected at the sides by strips of glass to prevent the bees obscuring the quicksilver from sight. B is a cover the same size as the lower hive, large enough to allow space for a bell-glass 9 inches wide, 6 inches deep. E is the ventilator between the glass and the stock-hive, intended to prevent the queen travelling into the super hive, and also by cooling the hive to endeavour to prevent swarming; a sloping pagoda roof with an acorn top completes the upper story. A floor-board with a block front, as in Nutt's collateral, forms the base, the entrance being sunk as before described, and furnished with zinc slides to reduce or close it as may be required. To stock a hive of this description, it is necessary to send the stock-box to the party with whom you have agreed for the supply of a swarm. In the evening of the day the hive is thus tenanted, remove it to the position it is designed permanently to occupy; if the swarm has to be procured from a distance, and is transported by rail or other conveyance, a perforated zinc slide should be substituted for the plain slide that covers the top, and a large piece of perforated zinc must also be tacked to the bottom after the swarm has settled in; thus securely confined, with a free circulation of air throughout, bees that have been swarmed the day before may be safely sent any distance that will allow of their being released the day after, because bees, though they provision themselves for a couple of days, cannot with safety be confined in an empty hive much longer.

Having now, we will suppose, procured your swarm, and having placed it in a south or south-east aspect, you may with advantage, if the weather be wet, give a little liquid food; the feeding in this hive is performed at the top of stock-box, where the glass is worked. Our round Feeding Pan or the new Feeding-Bottle may here be used. Any fancy as to the position may be indulged in, but must be settled on by the time the bees are set at liberty, because any alteration afterwards is detrimental to the working of the hive. The bees on first issuing forth, carefully mark their new abode and the surrounding objects, so that if a change be made, they are completely thrown out in their observations, which confuses them not a little, and occasions loss. Bees always return to the same spot; it is the locality that they know, and if the hive is moved a less distance than a mile, thousands return to the spot on which the hive has been accustomed to stand.

Allow your bees to collect honey and build their combs for ten days or a fortnight. Much now depends on the weather; if fine, by this time they will require additional room, which will be indicated by the thermometer D rapidly rising; 100 degrees is the swarming point, the hive must be kept below this by ventilation.

Access must now be given to the flat bell-glass at the top, which is done by withdrawing the top slide. In a few hours, sometimes immediately, the work of comb-building begins in the glass—all the sooner, if a piece of clean empty comb be placed therein.

It is of service to keep the glass warm by means of a worsted or baize bag, it prevents the temperature from falling at night when much comb-building is carried on, providing the heat is not allowed to escape. Probably, if all goes on well, in three weeks the glass will be found to be filled with fine white honey-comb. When you find that the comb is well sealed up, it is time to take it off, but if the cells are unfilled and unsealed, let the little labourers complete their work—a little experience will soon enable the bee-keeper to determine this point.

The plan to be adopted for taking glasses of honey-comb is the same as described for hive No. 1, page 21.

TAYLOR'S AMATEUR SHALLOW BOX OR EIGHT BAR HIVE. No. 3.

Taylor's Amateur Hive, as seen by reference to the engraving, consists of three boxes, the lower one A, is the stock box, in which the swarm is first placed; B is the first super; and C the centre box; all three boxes are of the same diameter, viz., 13½ inches square inside; A, the stock box, is 7½ deep; B, 6½ inches; both are fitted with eight moveable bars, each bar being 1⅛ wide, with spaces of half an inch between, and all are easily removed by unscrewing the crown board, in which are two openings closed by zinc slides; the middle box C has no bars, and is still shallower than either of the other boxes, being 5 inches deep. In many localities and seasons, the third box may not be required. Each box has two windows—one at the back and another at the side, a zinc shutter sliding in a groove, excluding light and retaining warmth; the box C differs from the others in another respect; instead of bars it has a grating made by seven openings, each ½ an inch wide and 9 inches long; these three boxes stand on a stout floor-board, in which is cut the entrance way, 4 inches wide and ⅜ of an inch high. The floor-board projects so as to support an outer cover of half-inch wood, surmounted by a sloping roof. This is an effectual protection from the weather, and is necessary when hives are exposed; of course, if placed in a bee-house such protection may be dispensed with. The outer case is well painted, of a green colour, and when it is used the hive may be placed in any part of the garden. The dimensions of this hive, with outside cover, are 18 inches square, 2 feet 6 inches high.

Suitable stands are provided, consisting of a stout pedestal with four feet. Stakes should be driven into the ground to secure the whole against wind. Height from the ground, 4 feet 3 inches.

The bars before alluded to are for the purpose of inducing the bees to build parallel combs; for without this, extraction would be impossible. It is a great convenience, in many ways, to be able to take out a bar of comb, it gives such complete control over the hive.

To ensure comb-building on the bars, pieces of clean worker comb should always be carefully preserved; and before a swarm is put in, either every bar, or if guide comb is not plentiful, every other bar should have a piece fixed to it in the following manner: cut a piece of clean empty comb of the required size, say two inches square, not less; heat a common flat iron, and slightly warm the bar with it, then melt a little bees-wax upon it; draw the comb quick over the heated iron, hold it down on the centre of the bar, giving a very slight movement backwards and forwards, then leave it to grow cold; and if cleverly managed, it will be found to be firmly attached. Care must be taken that the pitch or inclination of the comb be the same as it is in the hives—upwards from the centre of each comb. A new plan has lately been introduced by Mr. Woodbury, of Exeter, to facilitate the correct construction of parallel combs.

TAYLOR'S AMATEUR BAR HIVE. No. 4.

Taylor's Amateur Bar Hive is stocked exactly in the same way as before described—viz., by hiving the swarm into the lowest box A, as with an ordinary Cottage Hive, and in a fortnight's time the box B is placed over it, and the zinc slides withdrawn. After this has been given them, and is nearly filled, the super B is raised, and the box C is placed between, immediately over the stock box, to induce the bees to continue the combs.

This hive consists of three boxes, one above the other, similar to the No. 3. The boxes are less in diameter than the foregoing, and have seven moveable bars in each. Recent improvements and observations led Mr. Taylor to prefer eight bars, and to have the boxes made a little more shallow.

The mode of stocking and management of this hive are the same as that last described. There is no outside cover or protection from the weather, but the wood is additionally thick and is well painted.

We quite concur with Mr. Taylor in recommending a broader and shallower hive, and advise intending purchasers to select the eight-bar hive in preference.

NEIGHBOUR'S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE. No. 5.

Our "Improved Cottage Hive" is neatly made of straw bound with cane, and therefore very durable.[3] The lower hive is covered with a wooden top having in it three holes, through which the bees convey their honey into three middle sized bell glasses with ventilators, which when filled hold about 6 lb. each. There is a hoop at the bottom, another round the top of the lower hive; to this the wooden crown board is fastened. These hoops are a great improvement, and are less liable to harbour insects than if straw alone were used. The floor-board, as its name implies, is a wooden board, 1¼ inch thick, with a projection of 3 or 4 inches under the entrance to form an alighting place. This entrance is cut out of, or sunk in the board.

There are three windows in the lower hive, each closed with a shutter, these are very useful and interesting for inspecting the progress made. Across the centre window is a thermometer, enclosed at the sides by slips of glass. The window shutters being painted green, add very much to its appearance. The upper hive, which is merely a cover for the glasses, is a conical topped hive, also made of straw bound with cane; a hoop is worked into the straw, and made sufficiently large to allow the cover to drop over the top hoop of the lower hive, keeping the whole close, and preventing wet from drifting in. A zinc ventilator, ornamentally painted, forms the apex: this is useful in letting the confined hot air pass away in warm weather. The ventilator is opened by raising it. The dimensions of the lower or stock hive are 15 inches diameter, 9½ inches deep outside, its weight when empty 7½ lbs., the cover or top hive is 12 inches deep, and 15 inches in diameter, the ornamental zinc top being 4 inches deep. The whole is about 24 inches high. The weight of a hive packed, including glasses, &c., is about 18 lbs.

These hives have a tasteful appearance in the garden, but they require some further protection from the weather in the form of a cover or of a bee-house—contrivances that have yet to be described. In extreme cold weather, a little additional protection by having matting folded round them will be advisable.

One of the advantages this hive has over the common cottage hive is that it affords opportunity for the humane management of bees. The owner has also the power of taking a glass of honey-comb of pure quality, free from the extraneous matter, known as "bee-bread," instead of combs that are darkened by having brood hatched in them. By this system, we have combs newly made and used only for depositing the honey first put into them, hence the name "virgin honey." These glasses have a very pretty appearance, and when nicely filled, are very convenient for home use or for making presents. The lower hive is the receptacle for the bees; when a swarm is placed in this hive, they immediately proceed to fill it with combs, in which to store honey for themselves, and for cells to breed in. This hive remains undisturbed.

The best mode of tenanting a hive of this description is by placing an early and strong swarm in it, which may be generally procured of a neighbouring bee-keeper; if from a distance, considerable care is necessary to admit plenty of air; the shaking attendant upon carriage irritates the bees so much that, if not well ventilated, there is danger of the swarm being stifled, and the finer the swarm, the greater the danger. For the purpose of ventilation, remove the slides and substitute perforated zinc, wrapping the hive up in a coarse cloth of open texture (dispensing with the floor-board during transit when the distance is great).

It is necessary only to send the lower or stock hive to the party furnishing the swarm, taking the precaution to fix the slides at top with tacks, as the hive has to be inverted to receive the bees. They are shaken into it in the usual manner, as they cluster around the branch of the tree or shrub on which they may have chosen to alight. After the hiving is accomplished, the hive should be left near to catch any stragglers, for there will always be a few; towards evening, close the entrance, and remove them to the exact position they are intended permanently to occupy. Success depends on this, and also on their careful removal on the day or evening of swarming. The following morning the bees labour in the new location, marking well their habitation before they take flight, and to which they will not fail to return loaded with luscious store.

A fortnight must be allowed for filling the stock hive; then, if the weather be fine and warm, they will prepare to swarm again, as will be indicated by the thermometer rising rapidly to 100 degrees or upwards; one of the zinc slides on the wooden top must now be withdrawn, and a bell glass put on covered and protected by the upper hive, the other glasses may then be given in the same manner; a day or two after which, should the weather continue favourable, all signs of swarming will at once disappear, the bees now having increased store room which they will readily fill with comb. It is often found useful to attach a piece of clean empty honey comb to the ventilating tube of the glass; it is an attraction, and induces the bees to commence working in it sooner than they otherwise would do. The ventilator should also remain open during the day to allow the hot air to pass away from the interior, thereby contributing to the whiteness and beauty of the work; the bees enjoy the refreshment of coolness thereby afforded, and they work the faster for it. At evening all ventilation should be stopped, and the glasses wrapped round with flannel or some warm material, for the reasons mentioned on page 25.

The directions for taking honey are also the same as before mentioned.

The holes on the wooden top of this hive are of a peaked shape, being a preventive against slaughtering any bees whilst pushing the slide in for the purpose of removing the glass when full; the tacks before alluded to should be removed from the slides when the hive is fixed in its place, they are now in the way of cutting off the glass. The hive entrance has two slides: the perforated one is but seldom required, the bees object to being closely confined, it is only necessary when removing, and then for as little time as possible; the other slide is very serviceable during the winter months to lessen the passage way, thereby preventing the admission of too much cold air; it is also occasionally useful on a summer evening, to lessen the entrance when moths are troublesome, for if there be only a small opening, the bees can guard it, and easily repulse intruders. During the time of gathering they require the whole width to remain open.

When the weather is so unfavourable as to prevent the bees leaving home for a few days after being hived, it will be necessary to feed them. Bees should not be fed in the midst of winter; the proper time is in the autumn or in the spring.

The best mode of feeding is at the top of the Stock Hive. This is done by using the Round Feeder.

The Bottle Feeder may be used instead of the Round Feeder, and in the same place, by those who give the preference to that method.

The simplicity and easy management of this hive have deservedly rendered it an especial favourite, combining, as it does, real utility with many conveniences to satisfy the curious. Not a few bee-keepers desire to unite the two qualifications, and no hive combines these advantages in a greater degree than "Neighbour's Improved Cottage Hive."

IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE. No. 6.

The No. 6 hive is of precisely the same size, construction, and management as the last mentioned, with the exception that it has no windows or thermometer in the lower or stock hive. The apiarian with this hive will have to trust more to his own judgment as regards the likelihood of swarming, and must watch the appearance the bees present at the entrance. When it is time to put on supers in order to prevent swarming, premonition will be given by the unusual numbers crowding about the entrance, as well as by the heat of the weather, making it evident that more room is required for the increasing population.

Not being able to form an idea of the state of the hive in spring and autumn by looking into the stock hive, it will be advisable to adopt the means of weighing. A stock at Michaelmas should weigh 20 lbs. exclusive of the hive, or be made up to that weight by feeding.

THE LADIES' OBSERVATORY OF CRYSTAL BEE-HIVE. No. 7.

This engraving illustrates the construction of the "Ladies Observatory" hive. The stock hive cylindrical with a flat top and a hole in the centre; the dimensions 12½ inches inside, 8½ inches deep, the outer cover being raised, and is made of stout glass, so as not easily to break.

A support, composed of seven wooden bars fixed on a pedestal from the floorboard, is very useful for the bees to cling to and attach their combs, instead of resting wholly against the glass.

The floor-board is of mahogany, the border being French polished. A middle sized bell-glass for deprivation is placed over the hole; this hole may be closed by a zinc slide. A cover of straw, 18 inches deep, 15 inches wide, with a zinc ventilating top similar to that affixed to the No. 5 hive, completes the arrangements. The weight of the stock hive and board is about 16 lbs.

This hive is well adapted for those persons who are desirous of having the opportunity of more closely examining the workmanship of these industrious and interesting insects, as the whole of the interior may be exposed to view; it is particularly suitable for a window or an indoor apiary, and also will be found a valuable addition to the green house. Under these circumstances, the entrance-way should be covered with a flat piece of glass, and an aperture cut in the sash corresponding with the entrance to the hive; through the glazed passage the bees may then find egress and ingress without being able to gain access to the apartment; an alighting board four inches wide must be fixed outside on a level with the entrance.

We had a hive of this kind in operation in the Great Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862, fixed in the manner above described. It answered admirably, and excited much interest and curiosity, though placed there under many disadvantages.

When a hive of this kind is to be stocked, procure an early and strong swarm, which must be temporarily hived in a common straw hive, from which dislodge the bees into the glass hive, but for this purpose a little preparation will have to be made. Spread a sheet on the ground, place the mahogany floorboard on it with the support, put three bricks, or some solid blocks of about the same substance, upon which the glass will rest; then with a sharp and sudden blow precipitate the swarm out of the straw hive on to the floorboard and support, place the glass hive on the bricks, and the bees will collect under the bars and on to the pedestal. In about one hour's time the whole will have settled quietly, and all the stragglers on the board will have collected together, the swarm hanging pear-shaped from the bar support; the bricks can now be removed, and the glass put in its right place on the floorboard. The straw cover being put on the hive, it can be removed to the place it is destined permanently to occupy.

The light should not be admitted for some days after hiving; if undisturbed, the bees will speedily build comb, working from the wooden bars which are placed there for their assistance and support. In ten days or a fortnight, if the weather continues fine and warm, they will prepare to swarm again; the opening at the top must now be unstopped, and the bell-glass put on, guide comb having been previously fixed. The directions given for the No. 5, Cottage Hive equally apply to the Ladies' Observatory Hive.

It is advisable in winter to furnish the glass stock hive with more protection from cold than is afforded by the straw cover alone; some thick baize or wrapper of wadding, for which there is space between the glass hive and the cover, will prevent so much moisture condensing on the sides of the glass. Moisture is injurious, causing the combs to grow mouldy; a little protection in the way of wrapping very much prevents this.

The hole at top is used for supplying food should the apiarian fear the stock of honey is in danger of running short; either the bottle feeder, or the round feeder, may be used for the purpose.

COTTAGER'S HIVE, No. 8.

FOR TAKING HONEY IN STRAW CAPS WITHOUT THE DESTRUCTION OF THE BEES.

A very prevalent opinion exists that bees do better in straw than in hives made of any other material. Another opinion prevails, viz., that the old fashioned straw hive is the least expensive, the most simple, and the most productive. Although we cannot go so far as this, we are willing to admit that a simplified adaptation of the humane system to the old common straw hive is the most suitable to put into the hands of that large class of bee-keepers—Cottagers. By these the more fanciful hives will be instantly condemned; besides, the expense puts them quite beyond the reach of the poorer class. The object aimed at in planning our Cottager's Hive has been to furnish a depriving hive that should be at once easy of management, inexpensive, and convenient. The stock hive, into which the bees are first hived, is a round straw hive, having a flat top with a hole in the centre. The size of this lower hive is 7 or 8 inches deep, 14 inches across the bottom, finished with a wooden hoop, which adds very much to the firmness and durability of the hive. The floorboard is 1¼ inch thick, with a way sunk therein for the entrance. A small round mat of straw closes the hole on the top; this mat may be fixed by wooden pegs. We have now described what is termed the stock hive, which is, in fact, an old fashioned straw hive adapted, modernised, and improved to the more humane, viz., the depriving system. The weight of the stock hive with its floorboard is about 7 lbs.

The super or cap hive is about 7 inches deep, 8 inches in diameter, and when filled contains about 10 lbs. of honey and comb. A glass window which is placed at the side is useful for inspecting the progress made in filling it.

A common straw hive, sufficiently deep to cover, drops over the super, keeping the window dark and fitting close on to the stock hive. This cover hive may be made fast by driving in two skewers, one on either side, to keep the whole firm. Unless placed in a bee-house or under a shed, the outside should be painted; or a piece of oil-cloth or waterproof covering of any kind shaped so as to shoot off the rain, will save the trouble of paint, and answer the purpose. If no protection of this sort is used, the rain is likely to rot the straw. As a covering cottagers often use straight stiff thatching straw sewed together; this contrivance is termed a hackle, and has a pretty appearance, particularly if a number of hives are in a row. Care has to be exercised that mice do not make the covering hive a resting place. Mortar is often used for fastening round the hive at the bottom; this is a bad plan, as it forms a harbour for insects; the wooden hoop fits so close as to leave little necessity for anything of the kind.

The principle of the depriving system is so much the same with all our hives, that a good deal of repetition is necessary in describing in detail the management of each separate variety. The object aimed at with the Cottager's Hive, as indeed with all our hives, is to provide a compartment for the bees to live in with their queen, she being the mother of all. It is intended, by inducing the queen to remain in her original apartment, that all breeding should be there performed, as well as the storing of bee-bread and honey for the winter sustenance of the bees. The cap hive or upper chamber, known as the "super," is for the storing of honey which the bee-keeper looks upon as a surplus, and which, at the close of the honey gathering, or as soon as filled, he intends to deprive the bees of, and appropriate to his own use,—of course taking care to leave sufficient in the lower or stock hive for winter sustenance.

The mode of stocking a hive of this kind is so familiarly known that any who at all understand the hiving of bees into a common straw hive, can make no mistake or find any difficulty in performing it. Lest these pages should fall into the hands of persons who are not so acquainted, we will refer them to the directions already given.

The hive may be smeared inside with a little honey if at hand; but this is unimportant, as a clean hive answers well. Some older bee-keepers prefer to give a little dressing to encourage the bees to like their new home.

After the swarm has been in the hive two weeks, the straw super hive may be put on, first removing the straw mat to give the bees access to it. If the hive be a stock, that is a swarm of the last or previous years, the super may be put on as soon as the weather is fine and warm in May. But much depends on the weather and the strength of the hive as regards the time occupied by the bees in filling the super; in favourable weather a fortnight suffices.

If, on looking in at the little window, the bee-master sees that the cells are scaled over, the cap of honey may be removed in the mode already described. The cells near the window are the last to be filled, so when they are sealed, it is safe to conclude that the combs in the unseen parts are also finished.

Sometimes the queen ascends and deposits her eggs; if, on turning up the super, brood be visible, replace the cap for a few days, until the young bees quit their cells. When thus emptied, honey will be deposited in lieu of the brood.

Suitable pedestals for these hives to stand upon may be obtained. It is important that these be firmly fixed, and the hive also made fast to the stand, to prevent its being blown over by high winds.

BAR AND FRAME HIVES.

Mr. Woodbury's Bar and Frame Hive, as originally made, consists of a wooden box 14½ inches square inside, 9 inches deep. This is a hive of large size, but the actual habitable space inside is lessened by the room occupied by the frames, of which there are ten; these rest on a rabbet a little below the surface, leaving a space of ⅜ of an inch between the upper side of the bars and the crown board. This allows a free passage on the top for the bees, entirely obviating the necessity of making excavations in the crown board, as has hitherto been recommended. Each frame is ⅞ of an inch wide, and rests in notches, with a space of ½ an inch between each. The frames extend to within ⅜ of an inch of the floorboard, so as to hang without touching any part, leaving about the same distance from the sides. It will be seen that there is a free passage for the bees on every side, and they are thus kept from coming in contact with the sides of the hive. Our engraving shows the hive open, and exposes to view the top of the ten bars and frames as they range from back to front. A window is also shown; this is placed in the engraving over the entrance, but the proper position would be just opposite. The drawing is made so as to show back and front at once. The floorboard is 1¼ inch thick, having two "keys" on the underside to prevent warping.

STRAW BAR AND FRAME HIVE. No. 45.