Information recently gathered from observation and interviews shows that the average owner who operates and cares for his car, invariably overlooks the springs and their connections while giving the car the bi-monthly or monthly tightening-up and greasing, while the balance of the car usually receives the required attention.

This fact seems to be due mostly to an oversight, for the springs are usually inspected while the car is motionless and at this time they do not show defects readily, and have the appearance of being rigid, inactive, and compact.

Weekly Spring Care.—Weekly spring care should consist of filling the grease cups (with a medium hard oil cup grease) and turning them down until the grease makes its appearance at the outer edge of the spring eye. This, under ordinary driving conditions, will be sufficient lubrication for one week. But in cases where the car receives more than ordinary use the grease cups should be given one-half turn every second day. The shackle connections should then be wiped dry to prevent dust and grit clinging and working into the bearing, which causes much wear on even a sufficiently lubricated bearing surface.

Bi-monthly Spring Care.—Special attention should be given at this time to the U-shaped clips which connect the spring to the axle. A loose clip means a broken spring at the first severe jolt, caused by the rebound taking place between the clips. Therefore, tightly adjusted clips will prevent action from taking place at the point between the clips where the leaves are bolted together and will entirely eliminate spring breakage. Tighten up the nut on the leave guide clip bolt to prevent rattling. The shackles should be inspected for side play. To determine whether there is side play, jack up the frame until the weight is off the spring, then grasp it near the shackle and shake with an in and out motion. If there is play a rattle thump will be heard. To take out play, remove cotter pin and turn up castillated nut snugly on the shackle pin. If the nut cannot be turned up a full notch, place a thin washer over the end of the pin. The nut, however, should not be turned up too tight as a certain amount of action is necessary.

Lubrication of the Spring Leaves.—Lubrication of the spring leaves should take place once every month. This point must be kept in mind and adhered to, as a spring cannot produce the marked degree of action necessary for smooth and easy riding, when the sliding surface is dry and rusty. The leaves slide on each other when the spring opens and closes, and if the sliding surface is not well lubricated the movement will be greatly checked by the dry friction; these dry surfaces also gather dampness which soon forms into dry-rust, which, in time entirely retards action and results in a very hard riding car.

It is not necessary to disassemble the spring at the monthly greasing period, unless the spring has been neglected and rust has formed on the sliding surfaces. In this case the sliding surface of each blade must be cleaned with a piece of sand or emery paper.

When the springs receive regular attention, it is only necessary to jack up the frame until the wheels and axles are suspended, the weight of which will usually open the leaves sufficiently to insert a film of graphite grease with a thin case knife. In some cases where the leaves are highly curved, it may be found necessary to drive a small screwdriver in between them. However, great care should be exercised in doing this, as the blades are highly tempered and spring out of position very easily.

Wrapping Springs.—Car owners in some parts of the country grease their springs and wrap them with heavy cord or adhesive tape. While this serves to keep the grease in and the dust and dirt out, it also binds the leaves and prevents free action. If the car is to be driven for any length of time on sandy or muddy roads, wrapping may be found very beneficial. But use only a water-proof material (heavy oil paper or canvas) to wrap with. Cut the material into one and one-fourth inch strips, and wrap from the center toward the outer end to prevent binding.

The following shows the results of a spring care test conducted by the writer. The cars were chosen at random and only those accepted which had seen six months or more service.

Eighteen owners were interviewed. Six of this number gave their springs a thorough greasing and tightening up every two weeks, and not one of this group made a complaint of any nature regarding breakage, stiffness, or noise.

Five of the remaining twelve, gave their springs occasional attention. Their reports were not entirely unsatisfactory, but had a tendency toward such troubles as rattles, squeaks, and stiffness in action.

The remaining seven did not give their springs any attention whatever, and all made unsatisfactory reports ranging from broken leaves, to side play, jingles, squeaks and hard riding.

Therefore the results of careful and regular attention may readily be seen by the reports of the first six owners. All nuts and connections were tightened, and the sliding surfaces of the leaves greased on an average of once every two weeks. The springs gave satisfactory results, and the cars retained that easy, soft, springy action, so noticeable in a new car.

The reports of the five who gave their springs occasional attention would probably have been the same as the first six, had they given the proper attention more frequently. But they usually waited until the trouble became annoying, which caused wear on the spring eye, shackle strap, and pin, on each occurrence making a good adjustment impossible. The stiffness in action and squeaks were caused by dry fractional surfaces between the leaves which prevented free action.

Types.—There are five standard types of springs, and two or three types of special design. The riding qualities of all types of springs depend on their length and resiliency, which is taken into consideration by the engineer and designer. Consequently there is not much choice between the different types.

Fig. 128 shows the semi-elliptical type of spring used principally for front suspension. The front end of this spring is bolted rigidly to the downward end slope of the frame while the rear end carries a movable shackle arrangement.

Fig. 129 shows the full elliptical type of spring which may be used for either front or rear suspension. The ends may be fastened together solidly with a yoke and eye arrangement, or shackled as shown in the above cut.

Fig. 130 shows a spring of the three-quarters elliptical type used in rear suspension only. This type of spring carries a shackle arrangement at the front and rear end which allows backward and forward motion to take place very freely, consequently it is very necessary to use a very substantial set of torque rods to keep the proper alignment.

Fig. 131 shows the three link or commonly termed platform type of spring used only in rear suspension on the heavier models.

Fig. 132 shows the front type of cantilever spring. The front end of this type of spring is bolted to a seat on the front axle, while the rear end may be fastened directly to the under side of the frame or attached to a specially arranged casting seat at the side of the frame. This type of spring is sometimes employed in multiple formation.

Fig. 133 shows the rear type of cantilever spring, which may employ a shackle arrangement on one or both sides, while a hinged seat is usually employed near the center or slightly over-center toward the front end.