THE AUTOMOBILE OWNER’S GUIDE
A great many experiments were conducted with the explosive type of motor between 1840 and 1860. These motors were very heavy and crude affairs and furnished little or no power. They were either abandoned or given up by those conducting the experiments, and had all but disappeared in the later 50’s. The chief difficulties that they could not overcome were, the finding of a suitable and combustible fuel, a way to distribute it to the explosion chambers in proper proportion, and a device to ignite it at the proper time. Many of these early inventions used coal tar gases and gunpowder as fuel.
The first designs for an internal combustion engine of the four stroke cycle type were devised in 1862 by M. Beau de Rochas. These designs were taken in hand by a German by the name of Otto, and many experiments were conducted by him and two other Germans, Daimler and Benz, which resulted in a fairly successful engine. The Otto Gas Engine Co., of Deutz, Germany, was then formed with Daimler as general manager. Experiments were carried on which resulted in many improvements, such as valve adjusting and electrical spark ignition. Many other smaller improvements were worked out which overcame many of the difficulties of the former and cruder devices.
The first gas engines were all of the single cylinder type, very heavily constructed and produced from three to five horse power. In 1886, Daimler conceived the idea of constructing the multiple type of engine with water-jacketed cylinders. Benz also completed a very successful motor in the late fall of 1886, which embodied the water cooling idea. The practical beginning of the gas engine as a factor in vehicle propulsion began in the fall of 1886, when Daimler applied his motor to a two-wheeled contrivance, which greatly resembled our present-day motorcycle. While this machine ran, it was not considered a very great success. Benz in the early part of 1887, connected his motor to a three-wheeled vehicle with which he was able to travel at the rate of three miles per hour.
The real beginning of the present-day automobile took place in Paris, France, in 1890, when M. Panhard secured the patent rights from Daimler to use his engine. He then built a four-wheeled vehicle, which carried some of the ideas of present-day construction, such as a steering device and brakes. To this he applied his engine and was able to travel at the rate of six miles per hour. In 1891 Peugeot Frères completed their vehicle and installed a Benz engine. This vehicle or car, as it was then called by the French government on account of its being mechanically driven, was able to make from seven to eight miles per hour.
The perfecting of the automobile was hampered very much between the years 1891 and 1898 by stringent laws that had been enacted by the French government, which all but prohibited the driving of a car on the public thoroughfare.
The first American-made automobile of the gas propelled type was completed in the year 1892 by Charles Duryea. This car embodied many of our present-day ideas but was very lightly constructed and under-powered.
In 1893 another car made its appearance in America. This car was built by Edward T. Haynes and was the beginning of the present-day Haynes’ line of famous cars.
The first automobile club was organized in Paris, France, in the year 1894 with the Marquis de Dion as president. The purpose of this club was to secure a reformation of the laws that had been enacted when the automobile made its first appearance on the public thorough-fare, and to make laws and rules to govern automobile racing.
At that time it was necessary when driving on a public highway to have some one run seventy-five feet in advance of a car waving a red flag, and to shout a warning at street intersections. These stringent laws, however, were repealed by the government through influential aid brought to bear on it by the automobile club assisted by the rapid progress of the automobile industry.
When you are going to buy a new car go about it in this manner and protect your investment.
First.—Choose the car that suits you best in regard to cost, operation, and appearance.
Second.—Inquire as to the financial status of the manufacturer. If there is anything wrong with the car, or the management of the company, it will show up here.
Third.—Orphaned cars may run as well and give as good service as anybody could ask for, but when a company fails or discontinues to manufacture a model, the car immediately loses from one-third to one-half of its actual value. That is, providing you wish to trade it in or sell it as a used car.
Fourth.—What kind of service does the agency in your vicinity give? Do they take any interest in the cars they sell after they are in the hands of the purchaser?
Fifth.—The amount of interest taken in your purchase by the agent or service station usually determines the amount of depreciation at the end of the season.
Sixth.—If you are purchasing your first car some little adjustments will be required, and conditions will arise that require understanding and attention. You, therefore, must acquire either a functional and mechanical knowledge of the operation, or depend on the agent or service station for help.
Seventh.—You will probably say that you can get along without such help. You probably can, but what will be the results? Will you be required to stand a loss in the long run resulting from excessive repair bills and depreciation which could have been prevented to a great extent?
Eighth.—Remember that an agent can fool you when you are buying, but that you cannot fool him if you wish to sell or trade in.
Ninth.—Remember that this book, The Automobile Owners’ Guide, was written to assist you in just such cases as we have presented, and that by spending a little time in study you can acquire a working knowledge of your car, and become independent of the service station and the agent, which will result in a big saving in both repair bills and depreciation.
The question is often asked, Does it pay to invest money in a second-hand car? The answer may be either yes or no, and depends entirely upon the condition of the car.
For example, A and B purchase a new car at the same time. A is rather conservative. He is also a careful driver and gives his car the best of attention. B is a careless driver and pays little or no attention to adjustments and lubrication.
A has seen to proper lubrication and has kept the parts properly adjusted and tightened up, and his careful driving has kept the alignment in perfect condition. His car at the end of the first season requires a little overhauling which will put it in as good condition as it was when it was new as far as service is concerned, and it is worth 85 to 90 per cent of its original value.
B has not seen to proper lubrication and has allowed his motor to overheat. The cylinders and pistons are scored and worn, and the valves are warped and do not seat properly. He drove into deep ruts and chuck-holes, and bumped into curbs and posts while turning around. His axles and wheels are out of line; the frame and all the running parts which it supports are out of alignment. Overhauling will not put this car in A-1 condition, and it is not worth more than 30 per cent. of the original cost price. It would be a poor investment at any price to an owner who is buying it for his own use.
Selecting and Testing a Used Car.—First.—If you are buying from a dealer who trades in cars, judge his statement of the condition of a car according to his ability as a mechanic and according to his reputation for accuracy. If you are buying from a reputable used car dealer his word can usually be taken as a correct statement of conditions as his business depends upon the accuracy of his statements and he knows the condition of a car before he buys it.
Second.—See the former owner. Get his statement of the condition of the car and the care it has had, and judge it by his appearance, and the general appearance of his home and property.
Third.—If the car is listed as Rebuilt or Overhauled, see if the oil-pan, differential, and transmission covers have been removed. If this has been done the old grease will either have been cleaned off or show marks of the removal. If these marks are found the proper adjustments and replacements have probably been made.
Fourth.—Don’t judge the mechanical condition of a car by its outward appearance.
Fifth.—Examine the tires and figure the cost of replacement if any are found in poor condition.
Sixth.—Jack up the front axle and test the wheels for loose or worn bearings.
Seventh.—Grasp the wheel at the top and bottom and wiggle it to determine whether the spindle bolts or steering device connections are worn.
Eighth.—Jack up the rear axle, set the gear shift-lever into high-speed, move the wheel in and out from the bottom to discover worn bearings, and move the wheel, forward and backward, to determine the amount of back-lash in the differential and universal joints.
Ninth.—Test the compression of the cylinders while the engine is cold using the hand crank. If one cylinder is found weak, a leak exists and the escaping compression can be heard.
Tenth.—Run the motor until it is warm. If any weakness in compression is noticeable the cylinders are probably scored, or the rings may be worn. The valves may also be warped, thereby preventing them from seating properly.
Eleventh.—Examine the shoulders of the cross-members supporting the engine, radiator, or transmission to see if they are cracked or broken.
Twelfth.—The battery may have deteriorated through improper attention. Test the solution with a hydrometer. If it is found well up, it can be passed as O. K.
Thirteenth.—Don’t judge the condition of the car by the model, as a two or three-year-old model may be in better mechanical condition than a six-month or year-old model.
A new driver should remain cool and take things in a natural way as a matter of course. There is nothing to get nervous or excited about when learning to drive a car. Any one can master the art of driving quickly by remaining cool and optimistic.
First.—Acquire some definite knowledge of the operation of the engine and its accompanying devices.
Second.—Have some one explain the operation of the accelerator, spark, and throttle levers.
Third.—Study the relative action of the clutch and gear-shifting pedal.
Fourth.—The new driver takes the wheel and assumes a natural and calm position with the muscles relaxed.
Fifth.—He adjusts the motor control levers. The throttle lever is advanced one-fourth its sliding distance on the quadrant. The spark lever is set to one-half the sliding distance on the quadrant.
Sixth.—Push the ignition-switch button, IN, or ON, and press the starter button, letting it up as soon as the engine begins to fire.
Seventh.—Not all gear-shifts are marked, consequently it is a good idea to let the new driver feel out the different speed changes. This is accomplished by pushing out the clutch and placing the shift-lever into one of the four slots. Now let up the clutch pedal until it starts to move the car, continue the feeling-out process until the reverse speed gear is located, and at this point impress on him that first and reverse speeds, are always opposite each other, lengthwise either on the right or left side of neutral, while second speed is always crosswise opposite reverse, and high-speed is opposite first on the other side of neutral.
Eighth.—Starting the car with engine running, advance the spark-lever three-fourths the distance on the quadrant, advance the throttle until the engine is turning over nicely (not racing). Place one hand on the steering-wheel and with the other grasp the gear-shift-lever, push in the clutch pedal, hold it for five seconds, in order that the clutch brake may stop rotation. Place the shift-lever into the first-speed slot and let up on the clutch pedal. The car should be driven four or five hundred feet on this speed until the driver acquires the “nack” of steering.
Ninth.—To shift to second speed advance the gas throttle until the car gathers a smooth rolling motion, press in the clutch pedal and allow three to five seconds for the brake to retard the speed of the clutch, then shift the lever to second speed and release the clutch pedal easily.
Tenth.—To shift into high-speed retard the throttle lever a trifle (to prevent the engine from racing), throw out the clutch and shift the lever into the high-speed slot. Perform these operations slowly but without hesitation.
Eleventh.—To shift to reverse speed go through the same operation that you followed when first was used, except that the shift-lever is placed in the reverse slot.
Twelfth.—The reverse speed-gear is never engaged unless the car is at a “stand-still,” as this gear turns in an opposite direction.
Thirteenth.—Always test the emergency brake lever and the speed shift-lever, to be sure that they are in a neutral position before starting the engine.
Fourteenth.—Remember that in case of emergency the car can be stopped quickly by pushing in both foot-pedals. Pressure on the clutch pedal disconnects the engine from the car, while pressure on the “foot” or service brake pedal, slows up the motion of the car and will bring it quickly to a stand-still.
Fifteenth.—Always push the clutch out when using the service brake to check the rolling motion of the car.
Sixteenth.—When you wish to stop the car and motor kick out the clutch and hold it in this position while you stop the rolling motion of the car with the service brake and shift the gears to neutral. Then set the emergency brake and turn off the switch to stop the motor.
If the engine cannot take the car up a steep grade in low speed (due to defective motor or gravity fuel feed) stop, engage reverse speed, turn off the ignition switch, and let the car back down to level or a place where you can turn around, and back up the hill. The reverse speed is geared from one and a half to two times lower than first speed.
Nineteen.—To stop the back wheels from skidding turn the front wheels in the direction which the back wheels are sliding and release the brakes. Turning away or applying the brakes adds momentum to the sliding motion.
Twenty.—If for any reason you must or cannot avoid driving into the ditch unless the ditch is very shallow, turn the car directly toward the opposite bank. The front or rear springs will lodge in the bank and prevent the car from rolling over and crushing the occupants, and the car can be drawn out more easily from this position.
1.—Be courteous to all whom you meet and give your assistance if necessary.
2.—When encountering a bad stretch of road, with the track on your side, don’t drive in and force another machine coming towards you to get out of the track. WAIT.
3.—Never block a track. In case you wish to stop and talk to some one, drive to one side.
4.—Keep on the right hand side of the road at all times, whether moving or standing, except as prescribed in Paragraph 5.
5.—In passing vehicles traveling in the same direction, always pass on the left and blow the horn.
6.—In passing a vehicle that has just stopped, slow down and sound the horn.
7.—In changing your direction, or stopping, always give the appropriate hand signal.
8.—Hand signals, straight up or up on 45° angle, STOP. Straight out or horizontal, TURNING TO THE LEFT. Down at an angle of 45°, TURNING TO THE RIGHT.
9.—The distance between vehicles outside of towns and cities, 20 yards; between vehicles passing through towns and cities, 5 yards; between vehicles halted at the curb, 2 yards.
10.—Bring all vehicles under easy control at street and road intersections.
11.—A maximum driving speed should not exceed 7 miles in business sections of cities, 15 miles in residential sections, 25 miles on country roads.
12.—Form the habit of slowing down and looking both ways before crossing tracks.
13.—Always pass a street car on the right side.
14.—Always stop 8 feet from a street car when passengers are getting off, unless there is a safety zone, then drive slowly.
15.—Never drive over the side-walk line while waiting for signal of traffic officer.
16.—Notify traffic officer which way you wish to turn with hand signal.
17.—Always stop and wait for an opening when driving from a side street or road into a main thoroughfare.
18.—Make square turns at all street corners unless otherwise directed by traffic officer.
19.—If you wish to turn from one street into another wait until the traffic officer gives the straight ahead signal, then give the appropriate signal to those in the rear.
20.—Always drive near the curb when you wish to turn to the right, and to the right of the center line of the street when you wish to turn to the left.
21.—Drive straight ahead at 42nd St. and 5th Ave., N. Y., and at Market and Broad St., Newark, N. J. These corners handle more traffic than any two corners in the United States. No turns are made at either corner.
22.—Exercise care not to injure road ways.
23.—Do not damage improved roads by the use of chains when unnecessary.
24.—In case the car is not provided with chains, rope wrapped around the tires will make a good substitute.
25.—In case of fire, do not try to put it out with water as the gasoline will only float and spread the fire. Use a fire extinguisher or smother with sand or with a blanket.
1.—In case of injury to person or property stop car and render such assistance as may be needed.
2.—Secure the name of person injured or of owners of said property.
3.—Secure names and addresses of witnesses to the accident.
4.—Draw diagram of streets as shown in Fig. A. Show relative positions of the colliding vehicles and the object of pedestrian just before the accident.
Fig. A. Street Intersection
5.—Label streets and every object depicted and add measurements and line showing course followed by vehicles, etc., and any explanatory statements which would aid an understanding of the occurrence.
6.—File this report at police headquarters.