A LOW FOOTSTOOL.—This project is chosen for the first work in upholstery for the reason that it involves the simplest processes possible. Nailing a piece of leather or strips of leather across a frame cannot be dignified by the term upholstery. Therefore, such work is not to be considered under this head. The structure, in addition to the simple upholstery processes involved, requires but elementary bench work in wood in its construction.
After staining the stool take a small amount of tow, pull it out thoroly with the hands until all uneven bunches are eliminated; then spread it out evenly on the top of the stool as illustrated in Fig. 6. Then place a piece of muslin over this, tacking it with 4-oz. tacks ¼ inch from the edges of the board. The muslin should be folded over on itself at the edges, and stretched very taut. Tack each side first, then work toward corners. This method of tacking insures a smooth, taut surface, and should be followed always. Use the regulator, Fig. 7, to even out any irregularities and to force the tow well out toward the outer edges of the muslin. Then lay a piece of wadding over this to make a smooth surface; see Fig. 7. Next stretch a piece of Marokene leather of the color desired over the previous layers and secure it with 2½-oz. tacks. These should be placed about 2 inches apart, ¼ inch from the edges of the stool, and surplus fabric trimmed to ⅛ inch from edges. Finally, cut a piece of gimp and secure with Metalene nails as shown in Fig. 8. Fold the gimp at the corners and splice at the last corner. Place the nails equal distances apart on parallel edges. Be sure that the leather, gimp and nails harmonize with each other and these with the final color of the stool.
A CART.—The different processes for upholstering a cart, illustrated in Fig. 9, are identical to those just described, with the exception that a margin is left at the edges of the seat. The cart suggests a very practical application of simple upholstery, either in covering a wood seat or in replacing a worn upholstered seat.
FIG. 6
A LEG REST.—The processes of upholstering the leg rest shown in Fig. 10 vary substantially from those already discussed. Here is the first introduction to a hard edge. Reference to Fig. 10 will show how this edge is made. Chamfer the upper arris of the seat as wide as the tack head and drive the tacks in at right angles to the chamfer. This method avoids splitting the corners. The near side of the illustration shows a piece of burlap tacked with two-thirds of its width overhanging. Use 4-oz. tacks for this purpose, and tack in such a way that the heads of the tacks are even with the edge of the seat.
After the burlap has been secured in this way insert a small roll of tow or a strand or two of welt cord under the burlap at the edge of the seat. The diameter of this roll may vary from ¼ to ½ inch as desired. Bring the burlap over and around the firmly packed tow or cord, and tack down extremely close to the roll, keeping the roll round. Special effort should be made to keep the roll smooth and even, for its form determines the final form. The rear side of the illustration, Fig. 10, shows the completed roll.
FIG. 7
Strips of webbing may be employed in place of burlap. Webbing is a closer woven fabric than burlap, and in consequence produces a more even roll. And webbing cord is preferable to tow for it requires less time to place and results in a smooth edging.
The strip of soft wood shown in the illustration is called an upholstery block. Gimp and muslin are secured to this block. Without these blocks, one at each end, the cover could not be placed without much labor and resulting unsightly folds at the corners.
After the corner strips are placed and the rolls formed, place sufficient tow on the seat to produce a slightly rounded top when the tow is pressed down firmly with the hands. The tow must be picked, that is, pulled out thoroly to make it even and fluffy. Place over this a piece of muslin, tacking it temporarily at the center of each side with several 2½-oz. tacks. These should be only partly driven, a process called slip-tacking or loose-tacking. Stretch it tightly, and bring the threads of the muslin in line with the edges of the seat. Next pull out the tacks from one side and re-stretch the muslin by stroking it several times with the left hand, always holding it with the right. Do this on each side in succession. An expert workman will hold the tacks in his mouth and the hammer in the right hand during the whole process. After the muslin has been placed use the regulator and re-distribute the tow should any unevenness exist. This process is called regulating.
FIG. 8
FIG. 9
Next place the cover. Whether it be genuine leather, leather substitute or textile fabric, proceed as with the muslin omitting folding the edges. Stretch the cover tightly and tack with 2½-oz. tacks. Place the tacks a small fraction of an inch from the lower edge of the board so the trimming of the cover may be easily done. Apply the gimp. This covers the raw edges of the materials and tack heads. Start at the right-hand corner, fastening it with a 2½-oz. tack. Carry it across to the left-hand corner and fasten with another tack. Fold it upon itself so as to form a definite crease then twist it over and carry it up and along the soft wood strip to the next corner. Repeat this process to the starting point; then cut the gimp off flush with the bottom of the board and secure with a tack. As the forty-five degree folds are made, the gimp nails should also be driven in place. Fig. 11 shows the steps in making the folds at the corners. Space distances equally and place all gimp nails. A desirable distance is from 1½ to 2½ inches—depending on the cover material. A quick way to place these nails is to drive a nail in the middle of an edge, then one in the half way points between this and each corner, and so on. This process gives good eye training. Fig. 12 shows completed leg rest.
FIG. 10
FIG. 11
A FOOTSTOOL.—The upholstery operations on the stool shown in Fig. 13 are very similar to those on the leg rest. The rolls are formed identically but are placed on four sides. Special care must be exercised to keep the corners firm and even, and in line with other parts of the rolls. The cover needs folding at the corners to make it smooth. The gimp runs continuously around the edge without folds. This form of stool requires a greater amount of upholstery material than the first form, and is not as pleasing in structural design, but is a more comfortable structure.
FIG. 12
FIG. 13
MATERIALS REQUIRED.—This stool, with top 9×14 inches requires the following materials for upholstering:
| Quantity | Material | Size |
| 2 pieces | Burlap | 3×14½ inches |
| 2 pieces | Burlap | 3×8 inches |
| 70 | Tacks | 4 ounce |
| 10 ounces | Tow | |
| 1 piece | Muslin | 11×18 inches |
| 60 | Tacks | 2½ ounce (For muslin and cover) |
| 1 piece | Marokene | 12×17 inches |
| 46 inches | Gimp | |
| 14 | Metalene Nails |