The hard-edge seat as it is technically termed is relatively simple when compared with other kinds of upholstering, but it is probably the most important of the group. The edge of the seat needs to be stuffed and sewed in a manner that makes it hard and firm, while the center is springy. With a working knowledge of this class of upholstery one may make some of the finest pieces of furniture without difficulty. The directions to be given may be modified to suit any particular piece of work in this group.

METHOD.—Construct a frame 18 × 24 inches outside dimensions, and 3 inches deep. Employ a simple butt joint, secured with nails and reinforced with corner blocks as shown in Fig. 32. A light, close-grained wood, as poplar, basswood or pine is preferred to hard, open-grained wood.

The webbing is fastened in place as described in Chapter V, using but three strands crosswise and two the lengthwise of the frame. This is a different type of work, and the suggestions as to spacing do not apply here as in the footstool just described. The webbing is placed so that the springs, six in number, stand over the laps. A distance of about 3 inches should be left between the outer edge of the frame and the springs. The webbing is 3½ inches wide, and the No. 3 springs used are 5 inches across. These dimensions determine that the strands of webbing should be 3¾ inches from the outer edge of the frame.

Place springs in position turning the bent ends up. Sew these to the webbing with stitching twine using a 6 or 12 inch double-pointed needle. Make at least three loops around the bottom coil, fastening it securely to the webbing. Pull the twine taut and tie the final end to a nearby stitch. Fig. 33 illustrates the method of sewing.

Next the springs are tied with spring twine to keep them in an upright position, and to prevent breaking down and bending. The twine also supports the burlap and stuffing above it. After the springs are tied down the twine should receive all the pull from the reaction. Upon the permanency of the webbing and spring twine depend the lasting qualities of the seat. The twine generally deteriorates or breaks first, and then the webbing. To insure a relatively permanent seat tie the springs eight times, that is, place four strands across each spring, one from front to back, one from side to side, and two diagonals. Multiply the dimension of the frame by one and two-thirds to determine the lengths of twine required.

THE PROCESS.—Tie a simple knot in one end of a length of twine. Drive a 10-oz. tack thru this into the top edge of the frame and in line with the centre of the spring. Then stretch the twine across the top of the springs to the opposite side of the frame; pull the springs down with it until the outer side of the coil is about 6 inches from the bottom and the inner side about 7 inches. Adjust the springs to stand vertical. Grasp the twine and spring nearest the fastened end with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; hold them, while with the right hand pass the free end of the twine down inside the coil, up on the left hand side of the fastened end, down inside the coil again, up on the right hand side of the fastened end, and thru loop thus formed. Pull it tight. This is called a clove hitch knot. Its advantage is that it does not loosen even after the twine over the top of the wire wears off. With the easier knot the entire twine loosens immediately after the top wears. A careful examination of Fig. 34, and a little practice will clarify the method just described. Pull the twine taut to the other side of the coil and form another knot. This time, however, the twine is passed down on the outside of the coil first and up on the inside. Before tying the second spring space it at the top a distance equal to that at the bottom. When the second end is to be tied, drive a tack part way into the edge of the frame and wind the twine once and a quarter around it, pull it tight enough to bring the springs down properly, and drive tack securely. Drive a second tack close to the one at the end. The twine should be fastened in just this way so that in moving up and down with the springs it will not wear away against the head of the tack.

All other twines are fastened and tied in practically the same manner. However, care must be exercised that the springs are not drawn down lower with successive strands of twine, or an uneven strain and wear will result. The last twine should be tied to all others crossing at the spring centers, to prevent twine wearing at these points. A study of Fig. 34 should make clear any doubtful point.

Tack a piece of 10 or 12-oz. burlap on the top edge of the frame with 4-oz. tacks, folding the edges over as they are being tacked. Fasten it just tight enough to insure smoothness, avoiding pulling the springs down lower. As previously stated all spring reaction strain should fall on the twine exclusively. Sew the burlap to the springs with a curved needle and stitching twine. This keeps the burlap in position, prevents wearing, and helps to unify the seat.

Place the stuffing. Work over about 5 pounds of tow, and work it down and out over the seat until it extends about 3 inches beyond the frame as shown to the left of Fig. 35. Be careful to keep the tow even at all times, especially at the edges.

Place a piece of light burlap, 6 or 8-oz. weight over the tow. It should be large enough to be slip-tacked on the sides of the frame. Stitch thru the two layers of burlap and the tow with a 12-inch double-pointed needle. The row of stitching should come just outside the edge of the springs. Each stitch should be about 3 inches long, and it is formed by passing the needle up and down thru the burlap. After all four sides have been stitched pull the twine tight. Begin at the first stitch and pull each taut in succession. Finally take a few stitches thru the center of the seat at irregular intervals, thus making the seat firm and compact. Do not stitch around the loose coils of the springs.

Now release the slip tacking and roll the loose edges of the burlap under the tow. Drive tacks thru that part of the burlap which comes in contact with the top edge of the frame, beginning at the center of each of the four sides and working toward the corners. Use precaution to make all sides equal. Tack the corners last. Should they be too full, due to the overlapping of the burlap, cut away some burlap and remove the necessary amount of tow to keep the corner even with the sides.

We now arrive at that process in the development of the seat from which this class of upholstery derives its name. The stitching of the rolled edge already formed is rather difficult, and care must be exercised to assure a neat appearing seat. Stitch the edge around to the number of two or three rows. Use a 6-inch curved needle, and beginning at the left-hand end of one of the rolls, start the needle about 1½ inches from the row of tacks, and allow it to emerge about 1½ inches from the row of stitching. About 1½ inches to the right insert the needle into the roll again about ¾ inch from the row of stitching, and allow it to emerge about ¾ inch from the row of tacks. Tie the end of the twine around the other with a double slip knot. Insert the needle again about 1½ inches to the right, up thru the roll, and down as before. Repeat this operation around the four sides of the seat, regulating as the stitching progresses. The right-hand needle in Fig. 36 shows the first row of stitching. Always insert the needle at a right angle to the roll, for the arc of the needle gathers in considerable tow which is forced into the roll as the twine is pulled taut.

The second row of stitching is also illustrated in Fig. 36. The stitches in this operation are not made in a zig-zag manner as in the first row. The needle is inserted about ½ inch above the first row of stitching and allowed to emerge at the same distance on top. Work to the left at an interval of ¾ inch and use the double slip knot as previously. Pass the needle to the right about 2½ inches and insert it as at first, then carry it back again about ¾ inch and push it thru the roll allowing the end to project; then loop the twine around the point. See left-hand needle in Fig. 36. Repeat on all four sides. After the second row of stitching is completed a third row of stitching may be made. Then place more stuffing on the top of the seat, rounding out all irregularities. This is called double stuffing, and work of this kind is termed double stuffed work. Hair is extremely resilient, and used for this purpose adds life to the seat. Moss will answer the purpose. Place a layer of cotton batting over this. Then a piece of muslin is finally tacked over all. Fig. 37 shows the muslin partly tacked, and the two layers of material rolled back. Keep the muslin smooth, especially at the corners, cutting away all surplus material.

Use a cover of soft material rather than one of leather or substitutes. Secure it in place like the muslin, only tack it under the lower edges of the frame and fold it carefully at the corners as illustrated in Fig. 38. The process of blind stitching is plainly shown. When the seat has been covered tack a piece of cambric underneath. The hard-edge seat is then finished. Fig. 39 shows the completed cricket.

Figs. 40 and 41 illustrate double stuffed hard-edge seats utilized in chairs. The rocker in its entirety is the product of a young woman, a student in the author’s class.

A QUEEN ANNE STOOL.—This stool also has a hard-edge seat but the method followed is a modification of the one just described. In the former the upholstered seat was built over a box or frame, and fitted snugly into the cricket base. In this project the upholstery is fastened permanently to the rails; it becomes an integral part of the structure. The edge is blind stitched. The webbing cannot be tacked directly to the rails; they are too weak to withstand the strain, and in this instance are curved or formed, which precludes tacking webbing underneath. In such instances the webbing is folded several times and tacked thru the folds against the inner sides of the rail. If the rails are not sufficiently strong strips may be screwed on as reinforcement. This has been done in this instance as shown in Fig. 42. Frequently on such structures a brace or two is placed across between the long rails.