CHAPTER VII.
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR WORK, THEIR COST, ETC.

Given in alphabetical order are some of the tools that will be required by the gunsmith, and in connection a very brief sketch is given of their approximate cost at hardware stores. This list is intended only as a sort of guide in purchasing, and is by no means intended as a complete list of what may be wanted.

Figure 1.

The Alcohol Lamp.—This lamp, shown in Fig. 1, is useful for small soldering, tempering small taps, drills, etc. Glass or brass lamps with caps to prevent evaporation, are sold for about 50 cents each.

Alcohol Lamp, Self-Blowing.—This lamp, shown in Fig. 2, very convenient when continued blowing is required, or when the “knack” of using the common plow-pipe cannot be readily acquired. It may be used for soldering, brazing small articles, or hardening small tools, Size 2½ inches diameter and 5 inches high, $2; about 3 inches diameter and 6 inches high, $3.

Figure 2.

Anvil.—An anvil weighing about ninety or one hundred pounds is heavy enough. An Eagle anvil of this weight will cost about $9 or $10. The body of this kind of anvil is cast iron with steel face and horn. Price per pound is about ten cents.

Barrel Planes.—These planes are now but little used, except for stocking guns or rifles which are to be fitted with full-length stocks. As this form of gun is somewhat going out of use, so the stocker’s planes are getting to be cast to one side. They are made similar to a narrow rabbet plane, but have the iron set close to the fore end. Any narrow plane with the fore end cut off to within half an inch of the opening in which the iron is placed will make a substitute for the stocker’s plane. The plane with round face is used to let in round barrels, and one with a face equal in width to the sides of an octagon barrel, for letting in such barrels. A narrow plane is used to let in the ramrod, by cutting a groove centrally in the bottom of the barrel groove. The planes used are about four in number and the cost is about seven or eight dollars for the set as sold by dealers.

Bevel.—Bevels for ascertaining and forming surfaces, not at a right angle with some certain line, can be had from one dollar upward in price. The four inch is very good size. The blade is held in position by a screw, which forms part of the joint on which the blade turns. Shown in Fig. 3.

Figure 3.

Beveling Clamp.—These tools are generally made of about three sizes, and are used for holding hammers when filing the bevel upon the sides. They are also useful for holding lock-plates while filing the bevel on them. In the vise, work can only be conveniently held at a vertical or horizontal position; this clamp is designed to furnish a means to hold it so as to file an angle of about 45 degrees. The tool is shown in Fig. 4. It is held in the vise, the shoulders resting on the vise jaws. The spring between the jointed portions opens the tool when the vice jaws are opened, the closing of the vise jaws, of course, closing the clamp upon the work that is placed in it. The cost of these tools is from two to three dollars, according to size and quality.

Figure 4.

Blacksmith Tongs.—Blacksmith tongs can now be purchased of the hardware dealer. The twelve-inch length are used for small work, and the fifteen or eighteen for heavier work. The twelve inch cost about 50 cents; the fifteen, 62, and the eighteen, 75 cents each.

Blow-Pipe.—Select a blow-pipe eight or ten inches in length, with bulb or without, as fancy may dictate. If the end where the mouth comes in contact be silver or nickle-plated, it will not taste of brass. If it be difficult to get one plated, tin it with soft solder by wetting with soldering acid, and melting the solder on it by holding it over the lamp. Wipe off all superfluous solder with a rag. The cost of plain eight or ten inch pipe is about 25 cents. Add about one-third or one-half this price for pipes with bulb.

Breeching Taps.—Breeching taps ought to be obtained in pairs, one to enter first and another to follow, cutting a full thread at the bottom. The prices per pair are for the ⅜ inch $2.25; ½ inch, $2.50; ⅝ inch, $2.75. For shot gun taps, ¾ inch, $3.00; ⅞ inch, $3.25. A stock with dies will cost about a like sum, but if the stock be fitted with only two sets of dies, it will be much less. The two threads used for rifle pins are 14 and 16 to the inch.

The 14 and 16 threads are not always adhered to. A house in Philadelphia say they use taps of 18 threads, and a firm in Pittsburg advertise taps of 20 threads per inch.

Calipers and Dividers.—The best length of spring calipers and dividers, for common bench work, is about four inches. The cost is from 50 cents to $1.50, according to quality.

Chisels.—The chisels, as used by stockers, are about half a dozen in number. The narrowest is about one-eighth of an inch wide, and the widest about half inch. The set of six will cost about a dollar or a dollar and a half.

Cutting Pliers.—A pair of cutting pliers, six inches in length, for cutting wire, are indispensable. Select those of good quality. Poor pliers of this description are poor, indeed. The cost will be from 75 cents to $1.50. There are patented pliers of this kind in market that are recommended by many who use them.

Drill Stock.—Many kinds are in market, from eight inches in length upward. Some are termed hand drills, and the larger ones, used against the breast, are called breast drills. The hand drills can be obtained as low as 50 cents and upward; the price of breast drills from two to three dollars. Select a drill stock, if one be required, of a size and strength to suit the work to which it will be used.

File Card.—This is for cleaning filings, dirt, etc., that may collect in files. It consists of a strip of common cotton card tacked to a piece of wood conveniently shaped to handle. It is also useful to clean the dirt and debris that will collect in screw taps. The cost is about 25 cents. Shown in Fig. 5.

Figure 5.

Fitting Square.—A fitting square with a four, five or six-inch blade is required for many purposes, not only for laying out iron stocks and marking off “square work,” but other work that will come into a gun shop. The gun squares used by carpenters and cabinet makers are very good. If the stock be of iron, or an iron frame filled with wood, they are better than those with wooden stocks. The cost of the six-inch may be about 75 cents. The other somewhat less.

Floats.—For half-stocking, the gouge and floats are used for letting in barrels. The floats are made with a handle bent at an angle so that the hand will not hit the work. The round float in form resembles a gouge with teeth like a coarse file cut on the rounded or bottom surface. Floats have been made by drawing the temper of a thick gouge and cutting teeth in it, or taking a half-round file and drawing the temper, and then cutting teeth on the round side. Floats for octagon barrels are flat, like a chisel with teeth cut on one of the flat sides. A thin float for letting in cross bolts is made in the same manner. A float for fitting ramrods may be made of a steel rod with teeth cut on one end, and a handle fixed to the other. The bolt float will cost about 50 cents. The rod float about $1.00 each for two sizes. Rifle, two sizes, about $1.25 each. Shot gun, two sizes, about $1.50 each.

Forge.—Little advice can be given respecting a forge. Some prefer the bellows forge, while others select the fan blower. The great requirement of the gunsmith is portability and occupying little space. It should also be so enclosed as to prevent escape of dust, and be free from accident of fire escaping if left with the fire lighted. The cost of either form of portable forge will be from $20, upward.

Glue Pot.—Glue pots can be purchased with kettle fitting inside the pot and tinned on inside, quart size about 75 cents. A glue pot may be extemporized by selecting a common round fruit can, cutting out the cover so as to allow a smaller can to fit and be held in place. Where economy is desired or a pot cannot be purchased, the can glue pot will answer every purpose.

Gouges.—About six gouges are needed. The sizes are about one-eighth for the smallest, and increasing to three-quarters for the largest. The cost of the set will be about one dollar and a quarter.

Grind Stone.—An Ohio stone, about 20 inches diameter and 2½ inches thick, mounted plain, can be got up for about three or four dollars. The iron fixtures will cost about a dollar, and the stone a cent and a half or more per pound, according to locality.

Hack Saw.—A hack saw shown in Fig. 6, with iron frame, to hold a blade of eight or ten inches in length is required for cutting off barrels, slotting screws, cutting off rods of iron, brass, etc., besides many other uses. The eight inch with blade will cost about $1.25, the ten inch about $1.50. If at any time a blade be broken they can be replaced at from 25 to 50 cents.

Figure 6.

Hammers.—In choosing hammers select the plain riveting hammer with cross pein. The sizes generally most used are a four ounce, a twelve ounce and a heavier one for use at the forge. The four ounce costing about 30 cents, the twelve ounce about 50 cents, and the larger one according to weight. In selecting hammers try the pein with a fine file to learn the temper. In many cases the pein is left too soft for riveting steel.

Handles.—Handles for files or screwdrivers are best when made of maple or apple wood. Maple is generally preferred. Some mechanics like soft wood, as bass-wood or white birch, for file handles, but they are not so neat as those made of maple. Get those with ferrules made from sheet brass, raised to form. Soft wood handles are worth about 25 cents per dozen, and the hard wood about 50 cents.

Hand Shears.—For cutting sheet tin, brass, thin sheet steel, small springs, etc., select a pair of hand shears about nine or ten inches in length, costing about $1.50. With these, common watch-springs can be cut lengthwise, for making small springs for pistols. The temper need not be drawn to cut them. (Shown in Fig. 7.)

Figure 7.

Hand-vise.—A hand-vise for holding wire, screws, etc., is needed. About four or four and a half inches in length is most convenient. For holding small wire, cut a groove with a three-square file across the jaws toward the jointed end. The cost will be from 50 cents to $1.00, according to quality.

Figure 8.

Iron Clamps.—A pair of malleable iron clamps (shown in Fig. 8), opening about four inches, are useful for holding barrels into the stock during stocking, holding a lock plate or strap in place for marking, holding barrels together, pieces of wood to be glued, etc. Cost, about 50 cents each.

Figure 9.

Mainspring Vise.—This tool (shown in Fig. 9, as clamping a spring) is used to clamp the mainspring, preparatory to removing it from the lock. The hammer is set at full cock, and the vise applied, the screw tightened until the spring can be lifted from place. In taking down double guns, a vise for each lock spring is very convenient, as the springs can then rest in the vise, being cramped in place, until ready to be put back into their respective places. The cost of these vises is from 25 cents to $2 each, according to quality and make. For a left-side lock, reverse the sliding piece, so that the short end will bear on the bend of the mainspring.

Marking Gauge.—A wood marking gauge is used for laying out lines parallel to a surface already formed. If made of beech wood, and plain, it is generally sold for about 25 cents each.

Screw-cutting Tools.—A small die stock and dies, with taps for lock work, will cost about $2.50. A plate and ten taps, suitable for all sizes of nipples, English and German, can be had for about $8.00.

Screw Wrench.—One of Coe’s patent wrenches, about twelve-inch size, costing about a dollar, is the best make and the most durable size for all purposes. This wrench is generally known as a “monkey wrench.”

Soldering Copper.—A copper for soldering, similar to the kind used by tinners, is the kind to get. A good size—No. 3—will weigh about a pound and a half, costing about 75 cents.

Screw-drivers.—Several screw-drivers are required, and of several widths, to fit different sized screw heads. The narrowest may be about one-eighth inch, and the widest, say, half inch to five-eighths inch. If the mechanic desires to make these himself, select octagon steel, about one-quarter inch diameter, draw one end to form the tang, and the other to form the screw-driving part. Get good apple, beech or maple wood handles. Let the length project about six or seven inches from the handle. For the larger size screw-drivers get steel three-eighths diameter. Old files, with the temper drawn and the points ground to shape, make a passable screw-driver. Screw-drivers purchased at the store, are generally not so satisfactory as those made from rods. Stub’s round steel wire rod makes good screwdrivers

Pliers.—Three kinds of pliers are used by gunsmiths; flat nose, round nose, and long flat nose or clock-makers’ pliers. Six inch is about the right length for general use. The round nose are useful for bending wire or metal into circular forms. The long flat nose for holding work for soldering and handling work at the forge. Of the flat nose a five inch pair are useful in many cases. The cost of pliers (six inch), is from about 50 cents to $1.00 per pair according to quality.

Wing Dividers.—A pair of wing dividers, about eight inches in length, will be found the best size for general use. The cost will be about 75 cents. In purchasing see that the screw that binds the leg to the arc or wing is well fitted. The thread, either in the leg or the screw, is sometimes stripped or worn out after a little using.