14th.—Struck our tent at six in the morning, and passing through the ruins of a large town called Kabojie at twelve at noon, reached Dogo at three in the afternoon; but stopping only to pay the accustomed duty, halted a little to the westward of it. In the evening several respectable females of the town came to the tent, with tuah and stewed beef, for which I gave them a few beads.

15th.—At seven in the morning proceeded on our route, and arrived at Coulfo at two in the afternoon. I was met at the gates by the female in whose house we lodged on our way to Kano, accompanied by the most respectable of her sex in the town. They expressed the most lively joy at seeing me; but when I told them that my father was dead, they were deeply affected, and made loud lamentations. Although the town was full of merchants, and her own house occupied with some of them, this kind old woman turned out her lodgers, and gave me the best apartment in it. These merchants came from Cuttum Kora, Youri, Kano, Soccatoo, Borgou, and Yariba, to purchase Nyffé cloth, which is the best in central Africa, iron bits and stirrups, brass ornaments for saddles and bridles, and brass ear and common rings: this traffic is carried on to a considerable extent. The good old chief sent me fowls, tuah, milk, and bum: my hostess gave me a sheep; and during my stay, this excellent old lady sent me provisions daily.

Remained at Coulfo five days, and finding my Yariba pony, and the bullock the king of Zegzeg had given me, unfit to bear the fatigues of a journey to the sea-coast, exchanged the bullock and an old Turkish jacket for a couple of asses; but could not dispose of the pony, although I offered to sell him for a dollar. The morning before my departure found poor little Boussa Jack dead outside my hut. It was with the utmost reluctance my hostess would part with me; and I left her with a promise of returning in two years. She gave me an order to purchase looking-glasses, &c. for her on my arrival in England, which I was to bring with me; all which I promised to do. Gave her a dollar to make a ring, and half a yard of scarlet damask. I took to the old chief a scarlet cap and one of my late master’s turbans, and begged he would not compel me to visit Sultan Magie at Sanson, as I had nothing to give him. He replied, if I did not wish to visit the sultan, to leave as soon as possible, or he might send messengers for me. Sold 5000 cowries worth of needles to assist me on my journey.

20th.—Having paid my respects to the king last evening, left Coulfo, in high spirits and good health, at six in the morning, and halted outside Makonja at five in the afternoon. Here I found a party of merchants going to Gonja, near Ashantee, for gora nuts. Unable to procure any kind of provisions in the town, I took my gun and shot a heron; not being aware that this, being a fetish bird, is allowed to be eaten only by the chiefs. On being made acquainted with the circumstance, one of the principal inhabitants came with a loaded gun, and threatened to shoot me, making use of the most abusive language. I dared him to fire, and said I should complain to Sultan Magie of his conduct.

21st.—Early this morning, the person who had threatened to shoot me yesterday came to beg my pardon, excusing his conduct on the plea of being intoxicated with drinking too much bum. At six in the morning continued our route, and at twelve at noon halted at Dalho, on the banks of the river Quontakora. At 3 P.M. every thing was safely landed on the opposite side; and journeying till sunset, reached the foot of a hill five miles to the east of the Niger, and rested there for the night. The country traversed to-day was one continued swamp, the mud and water frequently reaching up to the asses’ side. Rained continually throughout the day.

22d.—At nine in the morning left the hill, and at eleven at noon came to the river Niger, which was full one hundred yards wider than we found it on our way to Soccatoo. After waiting an hour, a canoe came to fetch us; but we did not get over till two in the afternoon, the horses, &c. being obliged, by reason of the rapidity of the current, to be ferried across in the canoe. My poor slave Jowdie, never having in all his life seen so large a body of water before, became greatly agitated, and was afraid to cross. Getting him at length, after much persuasion, into the canoe, he reached the other side, but fainted the moment he put his foot on terra firma. We landed at Inguazhilligee, where the principal inhabitants pressed us to remain; but having no presents to offer, declined stopping. Expecting to reach a village in the evening, made all possible haste to get out of the town; but at six o’clock, P.M. the asses being quite spent, were obliged to fix our tent on a marshy spot in the midst of a bush. The roads were horribly bad, through swampy ground, and could only travel two miles an hour. This evening, as well as the two former ones, went to rest without food.

23rd.—At six in the morning, proceeding on similar roads, and having heavy rain, reached a small village at one, and were obliged to remain there for the day to give the asses a little rest. The poor animals had stuck in bogs seven times in the morning, each of which times the loads were taken from their backs, and they themselves dragged with much difficulty and loss of time out of their unpleasant situation. None of the poor inhabitants of the village understanding the Houssa language, I entered a hut, the door of which was open, and giving the inmates a few beads, made signs with my hands that we stood in need of provisions and rest. One small lean fowl, however, was all that could be procured from them; but having the good fortune to shoot a guinea-fowl, made a tolerable meal, and slept soundly.

24th.—At seven in the morning left the village, and journeying till 3 P.M., halted at the pleasant town of Wowow, one of the handsomest, if not the handsomest, in the interior of Africa. It had taken us two days and a half on the road from Inguazhilligee, while in the dry season we did it with ease in one.

25th.—Took the old king a present, consisting of four yards of scarlet and four yards of blue damask, four yards of scarlet silk, a cap of the same colour, and a white turban. Though overjoyed to see me at first, he was much distressed on mentioning the death of Captain Clapperton at Soccatoo. He wondered at my being alive, after visiting the Fellata country, the inhabitants of which he described as the most barbarous in the world; said my preservation was miraculous, and that I was certainly one of God’s favourites. I was obliged to comply with his request, which was tantamount to a command, to remain with him a few days to clean seven muskets and three pistols, which he afterwards told me belonged to the white men who were drowned at Boussa. They have the Tower mark on them.

26th.—Solicited and obtained permission to visit Boussa, to pay my respects to its king.

27th.—At five in the morning, accompanied by Pascoe, proceeded on the road to Boussa; but, after journeying till six in the evening, had only got half way. The country is full of bogs and swamps, which in some places took the horses up to their saddles in mud and wet; and Pascoe being the worst rider I ever saw, was soused in them more than a hundred times. The remaining part of the road appearing still more difficult and dangerous, found it impossible to proceed any further.

28th.—Returned to Wowow.

29th.—The king sent me a goat, cut up into small pieces, and a large bowl of tuah, to make a sadacco for my poor master; a ceremony common in many places in the interior, on the decease of any person of consequence. The pieces of goat and the bowl of tuah are sent to the mallam or priest, who repeats a short prayer over them: it is however necessary, before this can be performed, to place a gold or silver coin, or at least an article made of either of those metals, on the top of the bowl. Having no coin I could part with, I put a silver pencil-case in its stead, which was never returned me. After the prayer has been pronounced over the tuah and goat’s flesh, they are sent back to the person to whom they belong; and any one who is disposed comes and eats; each person, before tasting, repeating this pious ejaculation, “God send him safe to heaven!” The goat’s flesh and tuah sent to me were soon consumed.

30th.—Having finished cleaning the muskets and pistols, asked the chief permission to leave Wowow. The old man, smiling, told me not half my business was done; he wanted six charms, which I alone could write. These charms were to be worn on his person, and to possess the following virtues: 1st charm. If his enemies thought of making war on him, it would cause them to forget to put it in practice. 2d. If they should be on their way to his city, for the purpose of warring, it would turn them back. 3d. If they should discharge their arrows at his people, when close to the city walls, it would cause them to rebound in their own faces, and wound them. 4th. It was the province of this charm to prevent his guns from bursting. 5th, was to preserve the person who might hold the gun from receiving any injury, should it unfortunately explode. The 6th and last charm was to make him the happiest and most successful of men.

31st.—Carried the charms to the king, on which I had written scraps of old English ballads, which made him in the best humour in the world.

September 1st.—The king still wished to detain me longer, and insisted on my selling or giving him my gun and pistols, the only arms I had left. I endeavoured to soften him by every means in my power; but finding him firm in his determination of having the gun, and at least one of the pistols, and knowing resistance would be ridiculous, I sent them to him, leaving it entirely to his generosity to give what he thought proper. The liberal-minded chief shortly afterwards returned 4,000 cowries (worth little more than a dollar), as a sufficient remuneration for the gun and pistol, but made me a present the next day of a beautiful little mare.

3d.—Early in the morning the old chief desired to see me before I left, and obtained from me a promise to return to him after having visited my own country. He showed me various patterns of silk for a tobe I was to bring from England for him; and said, as I was going out of the apartment, “Your countrymen may come here, and build a town, and trade up and down the Niger: we know now that they are good men, but we did not think so when the white men who were drowned at Boussa were in the country.” He kept me with him till nine o’clock in the morning, when, on going to my hut, I found a party of merchants waiting for me, whom the kind old chief had detained on purpose that they might accompany me to Khiama (which had been concealed from me entirely), the roads to that city being infested with bands of robbers. Crossed the river Auli at twelve at noon. The current being very rapid, we had extreme difficulty in getting over; but no accident occurred, and we fixed our tent on the south bank of the river. In the evening the mallam, or priest of the merchants, came to my tent, and gave me the following account of Mungo Park and his unfortunate companions:

“You are not, Christian, the first white man I have seen. I knew three of your countrymen very well. They arrived at Youri at the fast of the Rhamadan (April). I went with two of them three times to the sultan. The person that appeared to be the head of the party made the sultan a valuable present on one of his visits, which consisted of a handsome gun, a cutlass, a large piece of scarlet cloth, a great quantity of beads, several knives, and a looking-glass. He was a very tall and powerful man, with long arms and large hands, on which he wore leather gloves reaching above the elbows. Wore a white straw hat, long coat, full white trousers, and red leather boots. Had black hair and eyes, with a bushy beard and mustachios of the same colour. The sultan of Youri advised your countrymen to proceed the remainder of the way on land, as the passage by water was rendered dangerous by numerous sunken rocks in the Niger, and a cruel race of people inhabiting the towns on its banks. They refused, however, to accede to this, observing that they were bound to proceed down the Niger to the Salt Water.” The old mallam further observed that, “as soon as the sultan of Youri heard of their death, he was much affected; but it was out of his power to punish the people who had driven them into the water. A pestilence reaching Boussa at the time, swept off the king and most of the inhabitants, particularly those who were concerned in the transaction. The remainder, fancying it was a judgment of the white man’s God, placed every thing belonging to the Christians in a hut, and set it on fire.” It is not a little remarkable that it is now a common saying, all through the interior of Africa, “Do not hurt a Christian, for if you do, you will die like the people of Boussa.” The old man left me shortly afterwards; and I thanked him for his information thus voluntarily given.

4th.—At nine in the morning left the bank of the river, and at two in the afternoon fixed our tent in a bush. Proceeded this day by ourselves, the merchants not being ready to start in time. Notwithstanding the account the king of Wowow had given me of the dangers of the road, we were not molested in our journey.

5th.—At six in the morning were again in motion, and halted at four in the afternoon in a small town called Gorkie. This day one of the asses was taken suddenly ill on the road, and it was with the utmost difficulty we could drag him to the halting place. The chief of the town, at the instigation of the king of Wowow, supplied us abundantly with fowls, rice, yams, &c. Gave him a pair of scissors and a few needles.

6th.—Finding the ass that was taken ill yesterday unable to proceed any farther, was obliged to leave him behind. On seeing his companion going away, the poor animal brayed most piteously, and made many ineffectual attempts to rise. At six in the morning left the town, and after sunset came to a number of grass huts, similar to those mentioned before; in the largest of which we rested for the night, and did not fix the tent. On crossing a river, apparently very narrow, to-day, my horse unexpectedly sunk several feet in mud and sand, and his legs becoming entangled in the roots of some trees lying at the bottom, fell on his side, and plunging violently, threw me off his back; but not being able to get one of my feet from the stirrup, lay several seconds under water, in a most perilous and distressed state. Freeing myself at length from the stirrup, I got out much exhausted, and succeeded in extricating the horse also from his no less unpleasant situation. Some merchants told me afterwards at Khiama, that I might think myself highly fortunate in escaping so easily, the river being filled with large crocodiles.

7th.—Started at six in the morning, and arrived at Yaro after sunset. The chief made us the usual presents of provisions, &c. A dreadful hurricane came on about nine o’clock in the evening, which lasted three hours, when it became awfully still and calm. The storm was unusually violent, and tore up large trees by the roots; the peals of thunder were fearfully loud, and shook the ground on which our tent was fixed; while large masses of fire, falling from the heavens, added not a little to this scene of devastation and terror.

8th.—Heavy rain all day; unable to proceed.

9th.—At half-past six in the morning continued our journey, and at noon entered the city of Khiama. Went immediately to the king’s residence, who, as soon as he saw me, asked how I dared to come into his town without having previously sent him a messenger to inform him of my approach. I answered I had sent one of his own men, three or four days before, to acquaint him of it. “That is of no consequence,” he continued; “you should have sent another this morning. Get on horseback directly, and return an hour and a half’s journey the way you came: on arriving there, send me a messenger, and I will order a sufficient escort to conduct you into the city, in a manner deserving your rank and respectability.” I was in the act of obeying this odd mandate, when he bawled after me: “I forgive you this time, Christian, but never be so remiss again.” The chief is an eccentric but friendly kind of man, and regretted very much my father’s death, which had been told him some days before by a merchant. He had heard the Fellatas had behaved very roughly to us, and had robbed us; but asked what business we had at Soccatoo? I told him we were at Kano, on our road to Bornou, when Sultan Bello sent for us, and we were obliged in consequence to visit him. He offered to send me safely to Bornou, and said he was tributary to the sheik. I replied, that Bello had taken the presents intended for him, and that I had none left worthy so great a prince, therefore could not accept his kind offer. My present to the chief consisted of a silk sword-sash, three yards of scarlet and blue damask, the same quantity of blue silk, a red cap, two pairs of scissors, and a hundred needles. I likewise gave him my old tent, which was full of holes, and quite useless.

Remained at Khiama five days, during which time the queen’s treatment was kind and generous, supplying us every day with excellent provisions in great abundance. The day before my departure the king gave me a strong pony; and observed that, “if my king wished, at any future period, to send any one to Bornou, he would conduct him there by a safe route, without the necessity of going through the Fellata country.” The king of Khiama is, without exception, the finest and handsomest man we had seen in Africa (far superior to Bello); and, with the exception of the king of Yariba, was most respectably dressed.

14th.—At six in the morning left Khiama, and halted in Subia at one at noon. The country traversed is full of bogs, which caused the horses to fall repeatedly with their riders. The chief of this town gave me a goat and some yams, by command of the king of Khiama’s messenger.

15th.—Started at six in the morning, and travelled the whole of the day, till ten at night, when we rested in a bush.

16th.—Crossing a creek at 6 A.M. arrived at Mossa, a town situated on the banks of a river of the same name, which divides Yariba from Borgoo. The river was overflown, and the current strong and rapid; in consequence of which the people of the town were afraid to ferry us over. No food of any kind this day.

17th.—Asked the king of Khiama’s messenger why he was so much afraid of crossing the water, observing that I had myself swam across many larger and more rapid rivers; and among others mentioned the Niger. The man, in great trepidation, begged me, as I valued my life, not to mention the names of rivers in the hearing of the Mossa, who was a female river, and had many rivals in the affections of the Niger, who was her husband. She had a capricious, jealous, and cruel disposition; and if I ventured to place myself in her power, she would certainly swallow me up, as I had spoken slightingly of her. She was continually quarrelling with her husband, thinking he was too familiar with other rivers; and where they met they made the “devil’s own noise” with their disputes. I roared with laughter when the man had done speaking, at the loves of the Niger, which made him very angry, and I had much to do to pacify him. Being unable to procure provisions of any kind in the village, went to the chief, and wished to know whether he intended to starve us. The old scoundrel had a garden in which he grew a quantity of yams; but he refused to sell me any, asserting that he had none for himself. I then asked leave for Pascoe to cut grass in his garden for the horses, suspecting his yams might be hid in some part of it: this he sulkily granted. In the evening Pascoe returned with a bundle of grass, concealed in which were several yams he had had the good fortune to discover. If this had not been the case, I really believe we should all have died of hunger.

18th.—Went again to the chief in the morning, and demanded something to eat. He solemnly declared he was himself starving, and could get nothing to eat. I then pressed him to send his canoe to the opposite side for provisions: after much intreaty he consented to do so, but first made a charm that it might not be injured in its perilous voyage. For this purpose he killed a fetish fowl, sprinkled its blood in the river, placed some of the entrails in the bow of the canoe, and in the stern put a broken egg: he then muttered several expressions I did not understand; and a man was sent over with the boat, which arrived there in safety; but in returning loaded with poultry and yams, it ran foul of a tree which unluckily lay in the middle of the stream, and sunk immediately, in consequence of which the whole cargo was lost. The chief informed me of the accident, and said that the river could not be crossed in safety for three or four days. Pascoe returned in the evening with more of the chief’s yams and grass.

19th, 20th, and 21st.—Nothing to eat on these days but the yams Pascoe stole from the king’s garden.

22d.—Attempted to cross the river at noon; but did not succeed in getting every thing on the opposite side till five in the evening. The horses and asses were borne a quarter of a mile down the stream, and had nearly perished. Halted at Wantatah, the first town in Yariba, about two hours after.

23d.—At seven in the morning pursued our journey, and at eleven entered Hogie, where we remained for the day. The chief gave me a pig, yams, corn, &c. A red cap and fifty needles fully satisfied him.

24th.—Rested at Hogie to-day.

25th.—Left at six in the morning, and arrived at Katunga, the capital of Yariba, at seven in the evening. The low grounds were rendered almost impassable by reason of the rain, which fell in torrents. On our arrival I was put into the same house we occupied on our journey into the interior.

26th.—The king would not let me wait on him, fearing it might wet my feet; and accordingly he visited me with five hundred of his wives (out of two thousand), and the principal inhabitants of the city. The wives welcomed my return by singing a simple and plaintive air, with much pathos and feeling: their voices were sweet and musical; and the whole had a novel and pleasing effect. Nothing could be heard but their strains, to which every one listened with the profoundest attention until the conclusion of the performance. The king expressed his sorrow for my master’s death; and questioned me very minutely on the motives that induced us to go into the interior. On telling him it was to see if there was any thing worth trading for in the country, he appeared satisfied. He was richly dressed in a scarlet damask tobe, and a pair of trowsers made of country cloth, scarlet ground with a blue stripe; the former ornamented with coral beads; his legs, as far as the knee, were stained red with hennah; and on his feet he wore red leather sandals. A cap made of blue damask, thickly studded with coral beads, was on his head; and silver rings hung round his neck, arms, and legs. I offered him the horse I had purchased at Kano, a fine animal, that had carried me the whole of the way from that city: and regretted my inability to make him a more valuable present; but promised, if he permitted two messengers to accompany me to the sea-coast, I would send him something else. In the evening I received a goat and a great quantity of yams from the king.

27th.—The king having desired me to call on some of his head men, I waited on the master of the horse, and two others. The former gave me a goat and a bottle of honey. I remarked I was very poor, and could make him no return.

30th.—I informed the king I was short of money, on which he generously sent me a duck and four thousand cowries (little more than a dollar). The eunuch, the king’s head man, begged of me my remaining pistol, two dollars, and a scarlet cap, which I was necessitated to give him. He also wanted my ass to make a fetish, but this I refused to let him have. This evening I sent for the ass from a neighbouring pasture, when I found the poor animal had been shot in the side with two poisoned arrows. I have no doubt but this cruel action was performed at the instigation of the disappointed eunuch. The beast became a complete skeleton, and after languishing for six days in great agony, I desired Pascoe and Jowdie to take him to a short distance, and cut his throat. When the king heard of the circumstance, he immediately ordered the carcass to be cut into quarters, and conveyed to his house. After which he ordered the meat to be dressed, and having assembled his wives and head men, they regaled themselves on it with peculiar satisfaction. Wishing to pay for so delicious a treat, the king sent me a goat and a thousand cowries for the dead ass.

The people of Yariba are not very delicate in the choice of their food; they eat frogs, monkeys, dogs, cats, rats, mice, and various other kinds of vermin. A fat dog will always fetch a better price than a goat. Locusts and black ants, just as they are able to take wing, are a great luxury. Caterpillars also are held in very high estimation. The caterpillars are stewed, and eat with yams and tuah. Ants and locusts are fried in butter, and are said to be delicious. I could never make up my mind to taste any of these rich insects; Pascoe, however, is particularly fond of them, and calls them land-shrimps.

It is a custom in Katunga, when the king dies, for his eldest son, first wife, and all the head men of the kingdom, to drink poison over his grave, and are afterwards buried with him. None of the king’s sons ever come to the throne. After the king’s death, his successor is chosen from among the wisest persons of the country; an elderly man is generally preferred.

Remained at Katunga till the 21st of October, when the king gave me 4,000 cowries, and some trona to sell on the road. He ordered his head messengers to accompany me, with a desire they should command the chiefs of every town through which we were to pass, to contribute, according to their means, to our support.

On the 22d of October I left Katunga, and after a rapid and hasty journey, during which nothing of consequence occurred, arrived at Engwa on the 9th of November following. I found the railing which had been placed round the grave of poor captain Pearce washed away by the rains, and the piece of wood on which I had myself cut out his name, age, &c. and the day on which he died, either taken off by the natives, or also washed away by the rains. The only means by which I recognized the spot was the appearance of the earth, on which there was no vegetation, and its having sunk five or six inches. I went to the chief, and giving him half a yard of blue damask, and a pair of scissors, entreated him to build a house over the spot, and have it thatched, promising to send him a present from England in a short time, if he did it. He promised faithfully to erect a house as soon as the rains were over.

Nov. 12th.—Arrived at Jennah this afternoon, and found the grave of Dr. Morrison to be in a perfect condition. The king had had it kept in excellent order, and was to have been rewarded by Mr. Houston, who himself died shortly afterwards at Accra. In this city the horses the kings of Wowwow and Khiama had given me, unfortunately died.

Remained two days at Jennah, when we proceeded, and on the 21st entered Badagry; all the natives on the road from Kano having behaved remarkably well to us. The country traversed was swampy, and full of water the greatest part of the way, which rendered travelling tedious and unpleasant.

The king was glad to see me, gave me his own house, constructed of bamboo, whilst he himself, much against my inclination, resided in a small miserable mud hut. Like every other prince on the road, he was grieved to learn the decease of my master. I gave him my little horse, which I had brought the whole of the way from Soccatoo, and all the articles for presents that were left, consisting of two yards of light blue damask, and the same quantity of scarlet ditto, two yards of scarlet and blue silk, and two dozen pair of stockings.

On the 28th I waited on captain Morrison, a Portuguese slave-merchant, and obtained from him goods amounting to ninety-four dollars; and a barrel of gunpowder, which cost a doubloon, I paid for myself.

Three of the Portuguese slave-merchants residing at Badagry, went to the king one day, and told him and his principal men that I was a spy sent by the English government, and if suffered to leave, would soon return with an army and conquer their country. This the credulous people believed, and I was treated with coldness and distrust by the king and his subjects, who seldom came to see me. All the chief men at length assembled at the fetish hut, and having come to a resolution that I was to drink a fetish, sent for me to appear before them. On my way five or six hundred people gathered round me, and I could proceed with difficulty. A great number of them were armed with hatchets, bows and arrows, and spears; and waited outside the hut till I came out. On entering one of the men presenting me with a bowl, in which was about a quart of a liquid much resembling water, commanded me to drink it, saying, “If you come to do bad, it will kill you; but if not, it cannot hurt you.” There being no resource, I immediately, and without hesitation, swallowed the contents of the bowl, and walked hastily out of the hut, through the armed men, to my own lodgings, took powerful medicine and plenty of warm water, which instantly ejected the whole from my stomach, and I felt no ill effects from the fetish. It had a bitter and disagreeable taste, and I was told almost always proved fatal.

When the king and chief men found, after five days, that the fetish had not hurt me, they became extremely kind, and sent me presents of provisions, &c. daily, and frequently said I was protected by God, and that it was out of the power of man to do me an injury.

I remained at Badagry two months, but was advised by the king never to go out unarmed, as the Portuguese took no pains to conceal their inveterate dislike to me; and would no doubt assassinate me the first opportunity that might present itself. Several persons in canoes passed repeatedly from Badagry to Cape Coast, but although I offered to reward them, I could never get them to take a note for me to the latter place, so active had been the exertions of the Portuguese to debar me from every means of communicating with my countrymen.

There were five factories at Badagry, in which were upwards of one thousand slaves of both sexes, chained by the neck to each other, waiting for vessels to take them away.

Captain Morris, of the brig Maria, of London, hearing of my being at Badagry, kindly came from Whydah to fetch me, and on the 20th of January I went on board, and arrived at Cape Coast on the 31st of the same month. Here I gave my faithful slaves, Aboudah, Jowdie, and Pascoe’s wife their freedom, who testified their sorrow on my departure by heaping sand on their heads, and other marks of grief peculiar to the African race. Colonel Lumley generously promised to give them pieces of ground and a small sum of money, and I have no doubt they will do well.

Sailed from Cape Coast in the Esk sloop of war February 3d. and arrived in England the 30th of April following.

THE END.

APPENDIX.

A LIST, OR SUMMARY ACCOUNT, OF THE LATE CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON’S ARABIC PAPERS, TRANSLATED BY MR. A. V. SALAMÉ.

No. I.

The following is a translation of the Arabic which was written on the original chart (as Clapperton calls it), and of which the annexed is a reduced copy, professing to describe the course of the Cówara river, the road from Soccatoo to Maséna, and from Timbuctoo, with the names and geographical description of the towns and countries adjoining.

A. “Representation of the city of Soccatoo, metropolis of the Prince of the Believers (Sultan Bello).”

B. “The island and town of Oodel or Goodel, together with the branch of the river which surrounds them.”

C. “The town of Boory, two days’ journey from Bagrá-foogal.”

D. “The town of Bagrá-foogal, one day’s journey from Ghagró.”

E. “The town of Ghagró, three days’ journey from Toondebí.”

F. “The town of Toondebí, one day’s journey from Sharif.”

G. “The town of Sharif, three days’ journey from Kasbi, or Kasb.”

H. “The town of Kasbi, two days’ journey from Seegho, or Sheeghó.”

I. “The town of Seegho, or Sheeghó, one day’s journey from Kabará.”

J. “The town of Kabará, half a day’s journey from Timbuctoo.”

K. “The city of Timbuctoo, ten days’ journey from Jéri.”

L. “Representation of the city of Timbuctoo.”

M. “The island and town of Jéri, together with the branch of the river that surrounds them. This island is in the middle of the territory of Maséna, or Masera, and between it and Sego is seven days’ journey.”

N. “This branch of the river is called, in the language of the Felan people, Bálió, and in Arabic the Black Sea or River. It extends from Jéri to Foota-Jaló.”

O. “This branch is called by the Felans Ranioo, and in Arabic the White Sea or River. It extends from Maséna to Sego, Foota-toroo, and to Darhoz (perhaps San Salvador), one of the towns of the French Christians.”

P. “The road from Soccatoo to Maséna, which is frequented in these days, across the river and the island of Oodel, with the names and description of the towns and countries that are on it, between the river and Maséna.

“On the west bank of the river the country of Biténkoobi lies. Its inhabitants are of the tribe of Felan; it abounds with mountains, rocks, plains, elephants, and buffaloes; and has along the bank of the river many white hills. Some of the people drink their water from the river, and others have shallow wells.

“Next to this, at one day’s journey through an inhabited country, the territory of Maázo-moudi lies, whose inhabitants are of the tribe of Tooroodi. It is a low mountainous country, and abounds with thorny trees and wells. Its prince is a tall and extremely strong man, and renowned for his courage and wars.”

Q. “Is the country of Yaghrá; between it and Maázo-moudi is about three days’ journey, through desert and stony plains, with a few trees and some mountains. In the midst of the plains, however, there is a well-known river, called Sirba. Yaghra is now possessed by a prince of the Felans, named Ibrahim (Abraham) Boonti. It contains woods, small mountains, and a well-known deep river, called Yalí, from which the people get their water.”

R. “Is the country of Lebtakó; between it and Yaghrá is two days’ journey, through woody plains and low ground. Its inhabitants are Felans, and its prince is named Saléh. They are a great warlike people, possessing fine swift horses and many cattle. They subsist upon the corn called dokhun (millet); and their country is hilly and sandy, and has a large lake, called Dúry.”

S. “Is the country of Jelghooji; between it and Lebtakó is two days’ journey, one of which is through villages, and the other through desert plains, in the midst of which there is a large lake, called Bookma. The king of this country is named Hamarkoli, and the people are Felans, and well known as great warriors. They possess abundance of swift horses, oxen, and other cattle. The country is mountainous, woody, and has a well-known lake, called Jeboo, besides a great many wells.”

T. “Is the territory of Hajrí, one day’s journey from Jelghooji. It is extensive, but very rocky, stony, and mountainous; has a great many sandy hills and a few vales; water in it is very scarce, and it has but few wells, so much so, that its inhabitants are obliged to store their water, during the rainy season, within the trunks of trees. The inhabitants of the vales are the Felans, who originally conquered these countries; but the mountains are inhabited by a people called Benoo-Hami (the children of Ham), of the tribe of Sokai. They are great warriors, subsist upon the dokhun, and have abundance of swift horses and oxen. In the middle of this country there is a very great and lofty mountain, equal to which is not known in those parts, and here is its representation. [See ◬ in the chart.] Upon it there is a town called Oonbori, whose king is named Noohoo-ghaloo-farma, of the tribe of Sokai, and is renowned for his generosity and munificence.

“All these countries, except Oonbori, are subject to our Lord the Prince of the Believers, Mohammed Bello, whom may God cause to be ever victorious, for the glory of the faithful, and the annihilation of the infidels.”

U. “Is the territory of Maséna, seven days’ journey from Hajrí: it is very extensive, fertile, and abounds with rivers and lakes. Its villages join both the old and modern ones of the Felans. Its inhabitants are powerful warriors, since ancient times possessing abundance of oxen and sheep, and are blessed with every comfort of food and living; most of them subsist upon rice, butter, fish, and meat. In the middle of the country there are two lofty mountains, called Soroba and Goran, and its cattle feed, throughout the four seasons of the year, upon grass; and as the lands are almost continually covered with water, the shepherds and herdsmen gather the grass, heap it up in large stacks, and, while the cattle are grazing, live upon the tops thereof till the waters are dried up. Though this may appear marvellous, it is the fact with these people.”

Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4. “Are four rivers (perhaps canals) belonging to Maséna.”

“The present Sultan of Maséna is Ahmad Hamad Labo, who rules over Timbuctoo, Jeri, and Oonbori, and indeed he may be called the sovereign of the Gharb (West) in Soodan. He is now at war with Sego.

“From Soccatoo to Benji is one day’s journey through Sisilbi, which is the metropolis of Ghalooji. This country is level and fertile, and contains rivers, woods, gardens, and wells. On the east side of it there are two rocky, rugged mountains; on the right there is a river, and on the left there are plains and barren deserts. In the environs of the capital of Benji there are, however, several villages or towns belonging to the Mohammedans. Between the territory of Benji and that of Mouri is three days’ and nights’ journey, through barren and sandy deserts. Mouri contains small mountains, woods, and has two roads on the left; on one of which there is a deep stream, and on the other are two lakes, surrounded with flowering and fruitful trees. This country originally belonged to the Sultan of Kabi, and its inhabitants are infidels. Its present sultan is named Ghagara, and has a city for his residence named Lukoo-you, which has a great lake near it. The chief towns of this country are Dogordoosi, Myzani, Toonsubi, and Tabada. There are many smaller ones, which need not be mentioned for brevity’s sake. The lands are mostly stony, sandy, and hilly. There are a great many deep wells, well supplied with water; but the country altogether has but few trees, though it abounds with reptiles.

“Next to it, at two days’ journey through dry deserts, with one track of road only, though woody and hilly, the country of Emanoo lies, the first town of which is Bakendoosi, which is of a moderate size; and has, on the east, a lake surrounded with trees; and, on the west, a well-known great and very tall tree. Between this town and the metropolis of the sultan, whose name is Aghmarak, is half a day’s journey. Emanoo is part of the countries of the Tuaricks, and contains lakes, wells, mountains, hills, and sands. Its people live upon the dokhun, and possess a great many cattle.

“Next to this, at one day’s journey, is the territory of Taghzar, which also belongs to the Tuaricks, and contains hills, wells, and natron lakes, which is called in our language káwa, or salt. East and west of this country there are mountains well stocked with cattle. The people are the worst and most ill-disposed of the tribes of Tuarick; and their chief living is peas and dokhun. Their sultan is named Hama-ráwadó, and also Hama-zanzamá, which means in our language Dog.

“On the right of this country the territory of Jerma lies; it is a narrow vale, between high hills and hillocks of sand; and on the east it has a lofty mountain; it contains natron and other deep lakes. It is inhabited by the tribe of Benoo-Hami, who are great warriors, possessing swift and well-trained horses, and their spears are extremely long and well-ironed with sharp blades. They are ill-disposed people, and have no lawful sultan, but their chief is one chosen out of the tribe. They subsist mostly upon dokhun, and their country abuts on the great sea or river Cówara.

“On the left of the before-mentioned country (Taghzar) that of Azwa lies, which is inhabited both by the Tuarick and by Benoo-Hami. It contains plains, vales, mountains, hills, and sands; and has deep streams. They possess abundance of cattle, and most of their living is the dokhun.

“Between Taghzar and the river Cówara is three days’ journey, through a barren desert, without any human being in it, inhabited only by wild beasts; and it has a long and deep stream running through sandy hills. From this stream the people of Taghzar provide themselves with water when they go to the chase of the giraffe in the winter season. The distance between their town and this stream is half a day’s journey, through some woody plains, a few small mountains, and sandy hills. On the road, however, there is a small lake, surrounded with shrubs and trees, in which water is found only in the autumn.

“Near the river there are a great many white hills, without any trees upon them; but on the banks there are very large tall trees of tamarinds, under the shade of which travellers rest themselves.

W. “Now the great river Cówara comes, and here is its representation. This great river is the largest in all the territories of Houssa; we know not of its source, nor of any one who has seen it. It rushes and precipitates itself through the country from left to right, and contains many islands inhabited by fishermen, herdsmen, husbandmen, and settlers. As to the variety of its animals, birds, and fish, it is only known to the Lord Creator; it has rocks and mountains, which break and shatter to pieces all vessels that are driven against them; and its great roaring and noise, with the agitation of its waves, astonish the hearer and terrify the beholder; and, at the same time, exhibit the wonderful power of the Omnipotent Creator.

X. “Is an undescribed branch of the river.

Y. “The writing of this copy ended on Thursday afternoon, the 5th of Rajab, 1242, of Hegira—(January 31, 1827, A.D.), in the city of Soccatoo, residence of the Prince of the Faithful Sultan Mohammed Bello, by his special command to me, Mohammed, son of Ahmad Masané—(i.e. native of Maséna)—for Abdálláh the English Christian.”

A. V. SALAMÉ.

No. II.
Translation of the Account of the “Expedition of Forty Christians,” &c. &c.

“In past years a company of Christians came from the side of Darwadar[2], a town belonging to the Christians, following the river to Foota-tooro, and from thence they proceeded to Ségo. They were forty men, and, on their arrival, the Sultan of Ségo received them hospitably, gave them presents, and lodged them in one of his towns called Sansaní (Sansanding of Park). They then acquainted him that they wished to build a ship; to do which he gave them leave. During their residence there, and the building of the ship, most of them died, and by the time the ship was finished, five only were alive. These five men embarked on board the vessel, and proceeded eastwards till they arrived at Jeris, where they resided as long as God was pleased. They thence went on to Maséna, following the river till they came to one of our towns called Seebi[3], between Jeri and Timbuctoo, that they might cross the way of the river[4]. They sojourned there with the prince, who was one of the sons of the Sultan of Timbuctoo, and whose name was Babal-kydiali. He entertained them, and gave them leave to proceed to Timbuctoo. They continued their voyage till they arrived in safety, five as they were, at the city of Timbuctoo, where they resided as long as God was pleased. Thence they went on towards the country of Sóghy till they came to one of its towns called Gharwal-gáoo. There the Tuaricks met, and fought them severely till three were killed, and two only of them escaped with the vessel.

“They proceeded towards the east till they arrived at Boussa; but the inhabitants fought and killed them, and their ship is to this moment there. This is the substance and the truth of the case.”

Observation.—From the melancholy termination of this adventure, and the place where the boat now exists, no one can doubt that this account relates to Mungo Park and his party; and that it is the most authentic and circumstantial that can be had. As to their number being “forty Christians,” it is easily accounted for, when we know that those people call any one who might be in the service of an European “a Christian.” So that it is not improbable that all those who were employed by Mungo Park were considered “Christians,” and thus formed the number of forty.

A. V. S.

No. III.
A Geographical Account of the Country, Rivers, Lakes, &c. from Bornou to Egypt, &c.

“From Lúghwí to the territory of Baghármy, which comes next to it, is two days’ journey through a desert containing a great and extensive fresh-water sea, called Asoor or Ashoo[5]. This country is hilly, sandy, and has small mountains; its width is a distance of ten days, and its length is much more. Its inhabitants are Soodan, Kahlans, and Arabs, who are robbers, and a treacherous set of people. Their sultan, whose name is Borkoomada, is as cruel as themselves, and even slays sheiks and Mahomedans. They possess abundance of horses and oxen, get their water from wells, and subsist upon the dokhun.

“Next to Baghármy the country of Roogá lies, which is stony, abounding with rivers, and inhabited by infidels.

“At three days’ journey through places inhabited by Arabs is the territory of Wadaí; it is very extensive, hilly, sandy, mountainous, and contains vales, lakes, and deep wells. Its sultan is named Yousuf, and his capital, which is situated under high mountains, is called Hoowara[6]; the inhabitants are a mixture of Arabs and Persians; they are renowned for courage in war, swift horses, and the abundance of their camels, oxen, and sheep. They have a great many market places or towns, and their living is the dokhun and dura.

“Next to Wadaí the country of Foor (Dar-foor) lies, at two days’ journey through mountains and woody deserts, in the midst of which there is a vale containing dom trees. The territory of Foor is very extensive, hilly, sandy, and droughty, so much so, that, notwithstanding the great many deep wells they have, the people are obliged to preserve their water within the trunks of trees. They are a mixture of Felans, Arabs, and Kahlans; they possess plenty of swift horses, camels, oxen, and sheep; they have all sorts of warlike weapons, as shields, spears, armour, and so forth[7], and are great warriors. Their sultan is named Mohammed Fadlú, who is a genteel, handsome, black man, and renowned for his munificence and generosity. His capital is called Nantalti, through which a river runs during the rainy season; but in winter the people are obliged to dig wells in the bed of that river for water. They live upon the dokhun and dura, and have some date gardens.

“At ten days’ journey from Foor, through a mountainous, hilly, sandy, and droughty desert, is the country of the Kordofal, which extends seven days in length, and is inhabited by Arabs and Kahlans; it is however possessed now by the Turks[8]. It is very fertile, and has small mountains, hills, and sands; as also it contains fine horses, and plenty of cattle and asses. The capital of its sultan is called Loobi, and the living of the people is the dokhun.

“Next to Kordofal is Sonnar, which is a very extensive and fertile country; and its inhabitants, who are Arabs, are blessed with every sort of comfort by being able to cultivate the lands at all seasons of the year. This fertility is owing to the situation of the country being between two branches of the Nile; one of which, it is said, runs from the eastward, and the other, which is called the White river, runs from the westward; so that Sonnar is an island between the two rivers. It is, however, now in possession of the Turks[9]. It is a very cheap country, and its inhabitants possess plenty of oxen and asses, and subsist upon the dokhun.

“The White river becomes very full of water during the rainy season, which brings with it, from the Blue river, the animal called Anghorotú[10]; but during the summer it becomes so shallow as to be waded, the water not reaching above the thighs of people.

“Between Sonnar and Sawaken, which is on the Salt Sea coast (the Red Sea), is a distance of forty days.”

A. S.