Adonisbelt—proprietary name for a sort of suspensory bandage, so that a man, drest a la Henrydixeyadonis, may have his trousers cut “no dress”.

Arms—bearings or devices which a person is (or assumes to be) entitled to emblazon upon his escutcheon; something that, like forbidden fruit, is shamelessly coveted (or manufactured) in democratic America.

Back scye—the back part of the scye. See Scye and Front of scye.

Bagman—British for traveling salesman.

Bandoline—a gummy preparation for plastering or glossing the hair.

Bar coat—see Bartender’s c.

Bartender’s coat—a short jacket, usually of white duck and buttoned to the neck.

Belwarp—a name given to English worsteds of peculiar formation, having some resemblance to chain-weave worsteds.

Blouse collar—same as Prussian c.

Blunt corners—not coming to a point but given a short rounding, as lapel edges, wing (shirt) collars, etc.

Body belt—same as Waist b.

Bosom shirt—a s. with a shield or built-up bosom.

Bottom-fulness—tailoring term for amplitude of skirt, as in a frock coat; belled.

Box sack—a loose, boxy sack coat, usually double-breasted, with a long roll and wide button-spread.

Breadth—width; a “breadth” of goods is its square, “two breadths” twice its width (in length), and so on.

Busby cord—a sort of aigulet attacht to a busby cap, worn draped over the shoulder.

Business cutaway—same as Walking frock and English walking frock.

Button-spread—the distance between buttons horizontally, on a double-breasted coat.

Buttoned oxford—a buttoned low shoe. See Oxford tie.

Cabbage—tailoring slang meaning the amount of material a “jour” can save of the silk thread, tape, linings, etc., given him for the making of a garment, such savings or surpluses being, by custom, regarded as his perquisites and which he quietly “cabbages” (or keeps), whence name.

Calves—pre-requisite to the dignified wearing of knee breeches and the chief reason why artistic dress reform invariably fails.

Cap cover—a detachable c. for a cap, protectiv or otherwise.

Captain-general’s coat—see Knights Templar uniform.

Cat-stitch—a crost s. on edges to prevent raveling. See Serging.

Chin-scale (s)—a chin strap of linkt metal plates or scales, as with certain military caps.

Cielette—a name for one of numerous processes of waterproofing woolens, worsteds, etc.

Clad—drest.

Clerical cloak—a long cape-like overgarment with collar, but without sleeves, buttoned down the front.

Coat of arms—originally, a surcoat charged with heraldic devices; hence, the armorial bearings, collectivly, of any person.

Collar stand—see Stand.

Congress gaiter—same as C. shoe.

Crest—(1) modernly, a plume, pompon, tuft, etc., on a uniform cap or hat; (2) in heraldry, a warrior’s device, usually supported upon a wreath or coronet.

D’Elia indicator—see Tailoring i. (D’Elia, inventor.)

Escutcheon—a shield shaped surface for armorial bearings.

Everstick—proprietary name for a make of semi-invisible rubber overshoes so contrived as to cling closely to the edges of the sole of a shoe without covering the uppers in front, but covering the entire heel.

Exaggerated—in tailoring meaning made larger than is actually necessary to give a clean fit.

Extension heel—see E. sole.

Extension sole—in shoemaking, a s. that extends or projects out considerably from the uppers, giving a broad tread.

False back skirt—in tailoring, the s. of a frock coat made with a whole back and to which an extra piece of goods has been attacht to the right skirt beneath the opening so there will be no gaping when the skirts spread. Compare Frock b., Whole b., Step b., Stubbed b.

Field—the top of a uniform cap.

First-over—tailoring term, meaning strap measurement (qv); the first measurement over the shoulder.

Footless stocking—a s. made without a foot, but with a retaining strap or band reaching beneath the foot; once a favorit s. with bicyclers who usually wore a light cotton sock beneath, if the footless s. was of wool or tickly worsted. Also called strap-ends, in the trade.

Footman’s coatee—a frock coat shaped somewhat like an evening dress coat but of livery cloth and with shorter skirts which are prest flat and have full length side edges; the fronts meet at the end of the roll and are closed with loopt buttons.

Frock back—tailor’s term for the b. of a frock coat made with a center seam and open skirts. Compare Stubbed b., Whole b., Step b., False b., Skirt.

Front of scye—meaning obvious. Compare Back scye and Scye.

Full box—tailoring term for an exaggerated box coat; very full and loose in every way.

Furnisher—same as haberdasher.

Gaiter—see Congress shoe.

Gilded youth—the idol (and eke despair) of multitudinous equivocal ladies and ambitious shopkeepers.

Gilt edge—synonym for extra quality.

Gladstone bag—a traveling b., usually of leather or imitations thereof, flat sided, taller than its width, hinged at the bottom and opening into equal-sized sides. Also called Railroad b.

Glottolin—a German preparation, recently placed on the market, for soothing tender and sensitiv necks; rubbed on a rough-edged collar it will make the collar, it is said, easy and comfortable to wear.

Gum boots—vernacular for rubber b.

Highwater pants—too short.

Jimmal ring—see Gemel r.

Knights Templar uniform—the full u. for officers consists of coat and trousers of black cloth, baldric, belt, sword, shoulder straps, gauntlets and plumed chapeau; and frequently a cape or cloak of black beaver. Commanders and past commanders wear gold wherever metal appears, but other officers and Sir Knights wear white except for buttons and shoulder straps, which are of gold—the Prelate alone excepted, whose belt is of black leather, and buttons of black silk or lasting. The Commander, Past Commander, Generalissimo and Captain-General wear a double-breasted military frock coat lined with black.

Leather goods—trade term embracing light leather manufactures, such as luggage, pocketbooks, belts, shawl straps and the like, but not applied to shoes, harness, machinery belting and heavy manufactures.

List—(1) a price schedule; (2) a price from which a discount is allowed.

Mackinette—proprietary name for raincoats. (Not distinctiv.)

Men’s furnisher—same as haberdasher.

Men’s furnishings—shirts, collars, cuffs, underwear, hosiery, suspenders, neckwear, pyjamas, jewelry, fancy waistcoats, bathrobes, bathing suits, etc.

Men’s wear—(1) broadly, anything for men to wear or use as distinguisht from articles or goods for women’s wear; (2) in the woolens trade the heavy suitings, coatings, etc., as distinguisht from the lighter dress goods, cloakings, etc., for women’s wear.

Muto coat—proprietary name for an overcoat, recently introduced, convertible from an ordinary dressy street c. into an auto driving or storm c., the feature being a collar which may be adjusted as a stept lapel collar or as a high banded Prussian or cadet collar with coat buttoned to the neck.

Napkin—an article of table linen used or misused in a manner indicating one’s breeding.

Narrow wale—obviously, the reverse of wide w. (qv); most frequently applied to diagonal suitings of close uniform ribs, whether flat or prominent.

Netherlings—humorous (?) for stockings.

Noose—only a very small percentage of us ever have to wear one and then but once.

Past commander’s coat—(Masonic) same as Commander’s c.

Pickets—an old word probably meaning the same as picot (qv), of which it seems to be a misspelling.

Pin ticket—a device for marking merchandise, samples, etc., with price, size and other memoranda; also more or less (am)usingly left around on chairs, benches, etc.

Pineapple cloth—(1) a soft, filmy textil material made from the fibers of the pineapple leaf, and of but little use in men’s wear; (2) another name for a fine thread-about handkerchief linen; also known as shamrock linen.

Prelate’s coat—(Masonic) see Knights Templar uniforms.

Raiment—why, wearing apparel!

Rainproof—general term for woolen and worsted coatings, suitings, etc., rendered weatherproof or rain-repellant by any of various processes. See Cravenette.

Robe—broadly, a long loose flowing gown worn over other garments, as a judge’s or priest’s r., an academical gown, etc.; more broadly, any kind of a costume used to cover other clothing.

Rockler—an old corruption of roquelaure (qv).

Second-over—in tailoring, a measurement taken for obtaining the shoulder hight.

Selling agent—the accredited representativ (or contractual jobber or middleman) of a mill or factory.

Sheath coat—see next.

Sheath trousers—one of the idiocies of 1908, ascribable, doubtless, to the hysterical feminin revival of directoire immodesties and their pernicious effect upon some men too invertebrate to uphold the precious responsibilities of their sex.

Shirr—to draw into gathers; to give a puckered or drawn effect.

Shirring string—a stout tape or cord for drawing a part of a garment or article together in some part or place.

Short bosom—a dinky sort of shirt b., supposed to be more comfortable for day wear under a waistcoat, but about as edifying as a flapping dicky when one catches a glimpse of it thru an opened waistcoat.

Skuffer—proprietary name for a make of shoes constructed on anatomical lines, having very broad and very heavy (yet flexible) soles and broad, low heels or wedge heels, the innersides of the heels being built to conform to the shape of the human heel and the entire shoe, which is made without nails, moulded into footform.

Spread—see Button s.

Stand—the inner part of a folded collar (of a coat or shirt) or that portion on which the collar “stands”.

Store service—in retailing, a method (any method) of maintaining a high standard of efficiency and esprit du corps among employes, customers also being, in some instances and to a certain extent, taken into the confidence of the house. In general, an effort to prevent mistakes, waste, etc., and adjust such as may happen. A variant of Welfare work (qv).

Straight leg—term applied to riding boots having little or no shape to the leg and resembling, above the ankles, flattened cylinders.

Strap ends—see Footless stocking.

Swab—a wool pompon for a uniform cap, so-called thru resemblance to a gunner’s s.

Syddo—a soft, flexible, elastic woolen fabric recently introduced as a substitute for haircloth, claimed to possess certain working advantages for coat fronts, being neither too stiff nor too yielding.

Tar—an odoriferous, dark, viscid, oily liquid sometimes applied to the body, after other clothes have been removed, to which a decorativ and protectiv effect is added by means of loose feathers; thus clad one is free to seek sympathy, aid and other clothes wherever they may be had.

Togards—proprietary name for a sort of half-foot of stocking material intended for wear inside the stocking to prevent those of thin or sheer texture from wearing out too quickly.

Tracing braid—narrow soutache b., used largely for decorating military uniforms, etc.

Unclad—nothing on.

Uric acid test—a test facetiously proposed during the resist dye-guaranteed dyes agitation of 1908, when woolens and worsteds were subjected to extraordinary tests for permanency; altho a jest, a very practical suggestion.

Visiting card—a little bit of pasteboard that causes inconceivable agony to anyone who, having made his pile, tries to break into society.

Waiter’s jacket—in the better restaurants (if the dress coat is not compulsory) a sort of mess j. of black cloth or alpaca; in cheaper restaurants a j. of white duck resembling a bartender’s coat.

Welt flaps—in tailoring, a welt finish to a pocket, the lower portion being extended and free, like a flap.