2nd. About eleven o’clock A.M. arrive at Gánjuwa, a large open place belonging to the province of Báuchi. All the houses, or rather huts, are built of reed, only that of the governor consisting of clay. The country mountainous, with many springs and pools of water; large numbers of palm-trees.

3rd. About ʿaser arrive at Yákoba; the country mountainous.

IV.—Collection of Itineraries passing through the various Districts of Ádamáwa.

In endeavouring to describe the country by means of this net of routes, traversing it in every direction and thus controlling each other, it will be the best course first to connect Yóla, the furthest point which I have been able to lay down from my own observation, with Hamárruwa, the furthest point reached by Her Majesty’s steamer “Pleiad”[163] in September, 1854.

1. Routes from Hamárruwa to Yóla.

(a.) Direct route; very unsafe.

1st day. Having crossed the Bénuwé, encamp on the border of the máyo Badóre.

2nd. A pagan village of the Zená; about four o’clock P.M.

3rd. A village of Hámidu (not the son of Ádama); a long day’s journey; the whole country is mountainous.

4th. Líma, a settlement of the Fúlbe; about noon.

5th. Yóla; in the morning.

(b.) Another direct route, a little more northerly.

1st day. The máyo Badóre.

2nd. Dútsi-n-máifulá (the Capped Mountain), obviously a travelling name given by the Háusa people to a mountain with a peculiar cone; compare the expression “shúsh el ʿabíd” (the Slave’s Cap). Before noon.

3rd. Bang, a settlement of pagans, on a mountain; turn round its southern side. A long day’s journey.

4th. Passam; in the forenoon.

5th. About two o’clock P.M. encamp; leave Líma at some distance south.

6th. Yóla; in the morning.

(c.) Route from Hamárruwa to Yóla, by way of Kóncha.

This route makes a sharp angle. Direction, as far as Kóncha, S.S.E., then N.E.

 1st day. Reach the river Bénuwé about noon, and cross it in the boats of the Kwána or Kwóna; sleep in Kwánárí, a village on the south bank of the river.

 2nd. Reach a pagan village under the protection of the Fúlbe, and therefore called by travellers Amána Bárka, in a valley bordered by mountains; it belongs to the dominion of Ámba Sámbo, the governor of Chámba.

 3rd. About sunset encamp in the wilderness.

 4th. Zangó-n-gharáma (a name given to the locality by the Háusa traders, meaning “the toll-station”), a village, the master of which, called by the traders mai Chebchóma[164]; levies a considerable tax on the caravans. “Masr,” or the Egyptian durra, forms the principal food of the natives.

 5th. Reach the residence of the chief Nyagáng. Formerly travellers used to make a stage in the village of Ardo Kési, situated more to the north; but this custom has lately ceased.

 6th. Mount Chébchi, stretching out to a great length, and crossing the path; encamp either on its summit or at its base, in the afternoon.

 7th. Rúmde ʿOmáru, a slave-village in the plain; about noon.

 8th. Kóncha (probably so called because it belonged originally to the Kwóna or Kwána), the residence of the governor Mohammed Jóbdi (not Gábdu), a Púllo, who is in a certain degree dependent on the sultan of Ádamáwa. The place is large, being divided into three distinct quarters—that of the Fúlbe, that of the Kanúri, and a third inhabited by pagans; but the dwellings consist entirely of round conical huts, with the exception of that of the governor himself, which is built of clay. The eastern side of the town is skirted by the máyo Béli, which in the dry season is fordable, but during the rains can be crossed only in a boat. It is tributary to the Fáro, and runs from Kóncha to Láro, from this to the town of Yáji about twelve miles west from Chámba, and having been joined by the máyo Íli, which is said to come from Ímber five days south from Kóncha, in the territory of the Tekʿa[165], joins the river Fáro at Rúmde Bárka, a slave-village of Ardo Yáji. This river is confounded by several informants with the Déve, which joins the Fáro at Búbadáddi. The governor Mohammed Jóbdi is said to possess no less than 10,000 slaves. East of the river, between it and the town, a conspicuous mount meets the view. Kóncha is a remarkable place, on account of the wild sugar-cane (not the sweet sort of Indian corn called sébbade in Kanúri), which is said to grow here in great abundance.

 9th. Láro, or more properly “Tírgade Lároma,” a large settlement of the conquerors, governed by an officer of the seignior of Chámba, and situated on the west side of the máyo Béli. When you leave Kóncha you cross the river, and then keep along its south-eastern bank; but before entering Láro you cross it again.

10th. Dírdiyú, a village inhabited conjointly by pagan natives and by Mohammedan Fúlbe; the country level. About noon.

11th. Zángi, a place formerly belonging to the pagans Faráng, but at present inhabited and ruled by the Fúlbe. Numerous elephants and mouflons; at least so says my informant, who nevertheless may have mistaken buffaloes or other animals for those peculiar to the desert.

12th. Reach Yóla, having traversed a well-inhabited country, and crossed a small tributary of the Fáro.

2. Route from Morá, the Capital of Mándará, to Yóla.

Morá was found by Mr. Vogel, by observation, to be in lat. 10° 58′ 38″ N.[166], and in long. 12° 22′ E. Gr.

 1st day. Mógashe, a village of Mándará, of middling size, lying on the eastern side of a range of mountains. Route, S.E.; arrive about noon.

 2nd. Fétte[167], a large Púllo settlement, and residence of a powerful chief called Khúrsu.

 3rd. Malám, a large Púllo place, governed by a cousin of Khúrsu’s, from whence a shallow watercourse runs eastward to join the ngáljam of Démmo (see Vol. III.). The country is level; arrive before noon. From Fétte you turn S.W. Malám is a short day’s journey N.W. from Bógo, another large Púllo settlement.

 4th. Kóngala, a Púllo settlement, situated on the upper part of the same watercourse.

 5th. Márruwa (pronounced by many people as if it were Marba), a large place, the residence of Mʿallem Dámraka, situated on the north side of a watercourse which joins the river of Lógone. On the north side a mountain strikes the eye. Arrive before the heat of the day.

 6th. Mískin, a large place, residence of Ardo Búba, situated on the same watercourse. An isolated mountain (Mount Míndif?) rises towards the east, the country in general being level.

 7th. Gázaba, a large place, and residence of Ardo Gazáwa, an old man. It is a market-place of some importance. Direction, west. Arrive before the heat of the day. Both places, Gázaba and Mískin, seem to lie in a line west from Mount Míndif.

 8th. Mbóla, a Púllo settlement, and residence of a son of Ardo Jídda, situated on the same watercourse. The country level; direction, west. Arrive about noon.

I here subjoin a short itinerary from Múbi (see p. 420.) to Mbóla, in order to connect this route with the track of my own journey to Ádamáwa. This road is mountainous and dangerous.

1st day. Úmshi, a pagan village. Arrive about two o’clock P.M., having passed Bá, in the mountain-group which I noticed on my journey to Ádamáwa, and left Jímmi to the south. After having cleared the mountains of Fíngting, you turn E.N.E.

2nd. Sínna, a village inhabited by Fúlbe and native pagans; about noon.

3rd. Mbóla, a Púllo settlement; about noon.

 9th. Lúlu, a pagan village, the inhabitants of which do not disfigure their features by tattooing, and wear no barbarous sort of ornament, except a small reed in the left ear, like the Marghí. Country mountainous; no watercourses. Direction, south. Arrive between ten and eleven o’clock.

10th. Mátabá, a place situated in a mountainous district, inhabited by pagans and Fúlbe conjointly. The deléb-palm or dúgbi, a species of Hyphæna, grows here in great quantity, but only few dúm-palms. The inhabitants drink only from wells. Direction, south a little west. Arrival, about four o’clock P.M. Mátabá lies on the road between Dába and Lam, a little nearer the former.

11th. Gidér, a place situated on the great pilgrim-road from Yóla eastward, and inhabited by Fúlbe and pagans conjointly. The whole country is mountainous, and only partly subjected. A watercourse runs along the east side of the village towards the máyo Kébbi. Arrive about noon.

12th. Héri, a village inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Falí. At some distance east, a watercourse. The country mountainous. Direction, south. Arrive in the morning.

13th. Báila, a Púllo settlement, residence of Ardo Badéshi, with a small watercourse. Country mountainous. Short march south, very little west. A few miles west from Báila is Badéshi, situated in a mountainous region, and on the east side of the máyo Saréndi, which is said to come from the south. In the distance, south, a place called Kacháwu is seen lying on a high mountain with a watercourse at its northern foot, which joins, or rather is identical with, the máyo Kébbi; this place possessing very rich pasture-grounds, the cattle of Báila are driven there in time of peace. Between Báila and Soráyi lies Bizér, about fifteen miles from the former. Direction, E.N.E.

14th. Nyáwu, a village inhabited by the slaves of Janfúra. Towards the west, a mountain-range; towards the east, country open. Short march S.W.

15th. Bátema, or Bázuma, the principal and central place of the tribe of the Falí, at least in former times; at present, residence of Janfúra, who has about 200 horse under his command. The place is skirted by the waters of the máyo Dundé, which joins the máyo Kébbi. Towards the east is a mountain. Short march a little south from west.

16th. Géwe, a large settlement of the Fúlbe, situated on the N.E. bank of the Bénuwé, a few miles below its junction with the máyo Kébbi. It is the residence of the chief Sámbo-Géwe, who commands about 100 horse. A large mountain called Banáwa, inhabited by pagans of the tribe of Falí, overtowers the Bénuwé. At a short distance from Géwe, a little east from south, lies Ribágo—not to be confounded with the more important place of the same name to be mentioned further down, this Ribágo being the estate of Mʿallem Músa, the governor of Chébowa. In the angle formed by the junction of the two rivers lies the village Dúli, and east from it another village called Lángi, the three places lying so near each other, that one may be seen from the other. A short day’s march west.

17th. Géweke, a small Púllo settlement, under the same chief as Géwe. On starting from Géwe, cross the river Bénuwé, and traverse a mountainous country. Short journey, west.

18th. Bilónde, a place principally, but not exclusively, inhabited by Fúlbe, and situated on the southern bank of the river Bénuwé. Short march, west.

19th. Gáruwa, a place inhabited by pagans of the Bátta tribe. Arrive at noon, having passed in the morning the village Badóde, situated likewise on the south side of the Bénuwé. North, or perhaps a little west from north, of Gáruwa lies Bángeli, at the foot of a mountain which is skirted by the river, from which Gáruwa itself lies about five miles distant. There is another road from Géwe to Gáruwa, which, though making a circuit, is sometimes taken. Keeping first south, and leaving, after about four hours’ march, Dúli on your left on the bank of the river, then turning S.W., you reach Dúkka in the evening, situated on the west bank of a small rivulet and at the east foot of a large mountain; from hence, a day along the mountain N.W. brings you to Gáruwa.

20th. Kókomi, a considerable place, inhabited by pagans of the Bátta. At a short distance west rises a large mount, the western foot of which is skirted by a watercourse running north towards the Bénuwé. A short march, west. Kókomi, before the conquest of the Fúlbe, was the chief and central place of the Bátta, as Bázuma was that of the Falí. A Bórnu prince is said to have once found refuge here, and to have governed Gáruwa also. About ten miles south from Kókomi lies Chébowa, a considerable Púllo settlement, inhabited chiefly by ʿulama of the tribe of Ulérba, and the residence of Mʿallem Músa. Some people, in going from Gáruwa to Búndang, take this road by Chébowa, which seems not to be longer. One day’s march W.S.W. from Chébowa, about twenty miles, is Mount Kárin, which is rich in iron, and supplies the independent pagan inhabitants of Mount Alantíka with this necessary article.

21st. Búndam, or rather Búndang[168], a considerable place, the inhabitants of which are Fúlbe and Kanúri, not far from the eastern bank of the Fáro, on a shallow branch, backwater, or “chókel” of the river, while the Bénuwé is a good day’s journey northward. The country is flat, with sandy soil, and with small eminences of rock projecting here and there. Arrive at noon; direction west. In going from Búndang to Lamórde, a good day’s journey S.S.W., keeping along the “chókel” on which the place lies, you pass first by Úro Búggel, the former residence of Sámbo Jíkera, then by Turáwa (“the white people”), the residence of Mohammed Jóbdi, then by Báyaga, and then by Yáske, a Bátta village, where the road from Gúrin to Lamórde joins our road, and where the Fáro, from a sweep westward, once more approaches the track.

22nd. Gúrin, formerly the capital of Ádamáwa, but which was not regularly walled. It lies on the western bank of the Fáro, which here, from a more southerly direction, turns eastward, running towards Búndang, from whence again it makes a sweep towards the north: in the dry season Gúrin does not lie directly on the river, but on a backwater called “Gúddi.” People crossing from Búndang to Gúrin therefore, a distance in a straight line of perhaps only five or six miles, as they drift a great deal with the current, report the river to be of an immense breadth, and more important than the Bénuwé. A little lower down from Gúrin, the Fáro is joined by the máyo Béti.

23rd. If you take the northern road from Gúrin to Yóla, you pass by Fárda; if the southern one, you stay a night in Béti (Binti?), a Púllo settlement lying on the eastern side of a rivulet (called after it the máyo Binti?). Arrive in Béti about three o’clock P.M.

24th. By the north road Yebbólewó, on the west bank of Máyo Binti; by the southern road Gáwo-Nyíbbi, a Púllo settlement, with a considerable market every Wednesday. The village has received its name from the circumstance that the Fúlbe, on their coming to this place, found in it a large troop of elephants, “nyíbbi.” A short day’s journey; and, if you choose, you can easily go on to Yóla the same day.

25th. Yóla; early in the morning.

3. Route from Saráwu, by Gidér, to Fátawel and Bínder.

1st day. Bútu, a Púllo settlement in a mountainous district, and a small watercourse towards N.W. at the foot of a mountain; the inhabitants, however, provide themselves only from wells. A short march, east.

2nd. Doérnom or rather Doérnomi, a Púllo settlement in an open, well-cultivated district; a short march, east.

3rd. Búllemi, a place inhabited by pagans in its inner circle, and by Fúlbe all around, skirted by a watercourse on the east side, and bordered by a mountain at some distance towards the north. Pass another watercourse on the road, which runs towards Hína. About eight or ten miles N.W. from Búllemi, and about sixteen or eighteen miles E. or E.N.E. from Saráwu, is Ngómna, a large pagan village of the Falí.

4th. Méso, a considerable Púllo settlement, which is said to possess as many as 200 horses; it is situated in an entirely open country, and is near a watercourse, which is said to run N. (?) and to join that of Doérnum. On the road the village of Hámma Gári is passed, which was formerly the residence of Ísubu (Yusuf) Derbé, the father of Ardo Badéshi. If a man walk well, he can reach Méso in one day from Saráwu.

5th. Péske, a Púllo settlement and residence of ʿAbdú, a brother of the governor of Méso and Badéshi, in an open valley plain, and with a small watercourse on the west side.

6th. Gidér, the place above mentioned, inhabited by pagans and Fúlbe, and skirted by a watercourse, which is said to be joined by three others near a place called Kólla, and to run towards Máyo Kébbi. Gidér is properly a district comprising four villages situated on the tops of mountains. There are two roads from Péske to Gidér, one more direct, leading straight through the mountainous wilderness in an easterly direction, while another, passing by a place called Yáji, forms an angle. Gidér is about eight miles north from Báinga or Báila; you may easily reach Gidér in one day from Méso.

7th. Soráyi, a place inhabited chiefly by pagans, and having but a few Fúlbe, with a small watercourse on its south side; arrive about noon, direction east.

8th. Bínder, a large town, inhabited by Fúlbe, arrive in the morning.

From Bínder to Káfta-Báudi, the place mentioned above, is one day and a half N.N.E., spending the night in Gajám, where you arrive late in the afternoon, having passed on your road the village of Torók, then Goy, Kosére, and, further on, Búsu; arrive the next day, before the heat, in Káfta-Báudi.

From Gidér to Fátawel.

1st day. Encamp in the wilderness between two and three o’clock, P.M.; country mountainous.

2nd. Gázabá, the place mentioned above; arrive early in the morning. The road, as far as this place E.N.E., now turns a little south from east.

3rd. Mískin, a Púllo settlement in the plain; arrive in the morning.

4th. Míndif, a considerable Púllo place at the east and N.E. foot of Mount Míndif, or Méndefi. There is another road from Gázabá to Míndif, turning round the south side of the mountain, and passing first by Kadé, the residence of Ardo Béle, then by Salág.

5th. Máudi, a large place, residence of the Lawán Sʿaíd, who is said to have a good many horsemen under his command; the country intersected by several small watercourses. Direction a little north of east.

6th. Fátawel, an important place, residence of the chief Mʿallem Hámma Yegúdu, and the principal ivory-market in this part of Africa. Indeed it is so celebrated that people in Bórnu generally suppose its name to be that of a large region. About ten miles east of Fátawel is Darám or rather Darám-sulú, a large place inhabited by many Kanúri, as well as by Fúlbe, and the residence of the chief Ardo Kalíbi, and south from it another place called Gájia. I here subjoin the road from Bága, on my Músgu route, to Fátawel.

1st day. Kadé, not the village before mentioned, nor the place where the Músgu chief Ádishén at present resides, but originally a part of the same district, which at present forms a Púllo settlement and residence of the chief Ardo Júlde (“chief of the Moslemín”).

2nd. Káya, a Púllo settlement, residence of Ardo Ísa (or ʿAísa, that is, Jesus), a short march. East from Káya, at no great distance, are the Púllo settlements Bágané and Gúmbulé, and south of the former the sister towns Káfta-Báudi, Káfta lying on the north, and Báudi on the south side of a shallow watercourse, “fáddama,” or ngáljam, and being ruled by one chief, Ardo Béllo.

3rd. Fátawel, early in the morning.

4. Road from Méso to Íssege, by way of Hína. Direction north.

1st day. Dabá, a pagan village, with but a small number of Fúlbe, in a very mountainous district; about noon.

2nd. Hína, a pagan village of the Mózogoy, a tribe nearly related to the Marghí, and probably, therefore, another branch of the Bátta. Their chief has a house at the foot, and another on the top, of the rocky mount round which the place is situated.

3rd. Udábunú, a village situated at the foot of a rocky mount, and inhabited by pagans. Arrive about two o’clock P.M.

4th. Madágalí, a pagan village; a long march ascending and descending in a mountainous country with many small watercourses.

5th. Íssege, the Marghí place on my own route; a long day’s march. Before reaching the place, cross a river running northwards.

From Múbi to Hína, E.S.E., is one day.

Keep along the rivulet of Múbi as far as Bá, where you leave it; reach Jímmi at noon, and Hína between three and four o’clock P.M., marching at an expeditious rate.

5. Route from Géwe to Kárnak Lógone.

Not a direct road, but, such as it is, often taken by pilgrims. Corrected from the statements of several informants.

 1st day. Bázuma, the Púllo settlement mentioned above, residence of Yamhúra, in a plain without watercourses, but having generally stagnant pools; a short march, east.

 2nd. Badéshi, the Púllo settlement mentioned above, situated at the northern foot of a mountain; a long march; arrive between three and four o’clock P.M.; direction N.E.

 3rd. Báinga or Báila, a Púllo settlement in a mountainous district, residence of ʿOmáro Mbílla; a very short march, of about six miles.

 4th. Bínder, the Púllo place mentioned above, in a plain; in the dry season stagnant pools, in the rainy season running water. A very long march, from early in the morning till sunset; direction N.E. Road unsafe, the country not being entirely subjected by the conquering Fúlbe. A little after noon pass close by Bizér, one of the strongholds of the Mbána.

 5th. Lára, a Púllo settlement, with a mountain towards the west; arrive in the forenoon; direction north.

 6th. Míndif, the Púllo settlement mentioned above, at the foot of the high mountain of the same name. Among the Fúlbe live a few pagans of the tribe of the Zummáya. A short march a little north from west. There is another more western and more frequented road between Bínder and Míndif, leading by Bobóyo, which is about half-way; between Bobóyo and Lára are the places Ghadás and Kílgim, and between Bobóyo and Gidér the villages of Múmmur, Tóde, and Lam, at about equal distances in succession, Múmmur lying a few miles south from Bobóyo, and Lam about ten miles north or N.N.W. from Gidér. This whole district seems to be very mountainous; and it is therefore difficult to lay down the roads with any certainty.

 7th. Máudi, a Púllo settlement in a mountainous district without rivulets; a short march N.E. There is another place of the same name at no great distance, but inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Zummáya.

 8th. Yúlguf, a Púllo village near a small mountain; the country in general level; short journey; direction, N.-E.S.E., at a short distance from Yúlguf, is a small place called Yólde, or Yúlde.

 9th. Bálazá, a Púllo settlement in a level country; a short march east.

10th. Bógo, the considerable Púllo place, mentioned above, residence of Lawán Gári; arrive about noon; direction east.

11th. Bálda, a pagan village on the top of a small mount. Short march, east.

12th. Malám, the border settlement of the Fúlbe, towards the Músgu country, and formerly the residence of Khúrsu, who now resides in Bógo. At a short distance south from Malám is another smaller place of the same name, with the surname Jébjeb. The informant from whom I first wrote this itinerary, Abú Bakr ben Nʿam, before continuing his direct road eastward, entirely retraced his steps westward from this place, after he had already changed his direction in Bógo, which is S.E. from Malám, visiting Márruwa, which is about thirty miles west from Malám, and thence returning S.E. towards Fátawel, which is about the same distance, or a little more, from Márruwa. Malám is about thirty miles S.S.W. from Wolóje, on my Músgu route.

15th. Wáza, a small village, consisting of two hamlets, and belonging to Lógone; a few Fúlbe families are settled here. The country level, with the exception of a few detached rocky hills. This is the place where we encamped on our return from the Músgu expedition. Abú Bakr passed two nights in the wilderness between Malám and Wáza, which is full of elephants and wild oxen (“mbánna”); but an expeditious traveller will make this journey in one day, from early morning till about five o’clock in the afternoon. Direction, N.E.

16th. Jínna, a considerable walled town of the territory of Lógone, in a plain richly clothed with trees, an important market for ivory, and distinguished by its fine matting and lattice-work. A man who wishes to travel direct in going from Malám to Jínna does not touch at Wáza, but leaves it at some distance north.

18th. Logón Bírni, or Kárnak Lógone, the capital of the small kingdom of the latter name. On this march a bare wilderness, called by Abú Bakr, “Fíli Obája,” stretches out towards the south. On the road are three villages.

6. Routes to and in the Province of Búbanjídda and Mbána.

i. From Gúrin to Ray-Búba, the capital of the province of Búbanjídda. Rate expeditious. Direction east.

1st day. Chébowa, the Púllo settlement mentioned above.

2nd. Kauyen, called by other informants Wóyene, a small Púllo settlement.

3rd. Bóngi, another Púllo place, situated on the Bénuwé.

4th. Bidéng, another large place, inhabited by Fúlbe and Dáma, residence of a son of Búba, and occasionally also of many wealthy inhabitants of the walled town Ray Búba, situated on the máyo Dóro, which, near the place Bóngi just mentioned, joins the Bénuwé, the place Dóro, from which it takes its name, lying between Bidéng and Bóngi. Another more southerly and more direct road leads in one day from Wóyene to Bidéng, passing in the morning by Agúrma, a large Púllo settlement upon which Wóyene is dependent, and crossing at noon the Bénuwé.

5th. Ray Búba, the capital of the country of the Dáma, a family of the Falí, called at present Búbanjídda, from the Púllo conqueror Búba, a man of the tribe of the Hillegáwa, and his mother Jídda. The town, being strongly fortified and surrounded by a wall, with four gates, lies on the máyo Chubí, which joins the Bénuwé.

ii. Three different roads from Ray-Búba to Ribágo. Direction north.
(a.) The westernmost.

1st day. Bidéng or Bidáng, the place just before mentioned.

2nd. Bóngi, residence of the Púllo chief ʿOmár Gári; cross the Bénuwé.

3rd. Sáini, a Púllo settlement, residence of a chief called by my Kanúri informant, Mʿallem Fébe, probably from his rich possessions of cattle, “fé.” Before entering the place, cross the river Bénuwé, which skirts its southern side. On the north side of the place is a high mountain. In this place the road from Ray to Ribágo is joined by the general road from Géwe to Ribágo, from Géwe to Dýllemi, about ten miles south along the eastern bank of the Bénuwé, from Dýllemi to Bóngi, passing by Dóka, about eighteen miles, and from here Sáini, at a short distance.

4th. Gámfargó, a Púllo settlement; short march.

5th. Ribágo, or perhaps more correctly, Ribádo (“the prince’s residence”)[169], a large and important Púllo settlement, the residence of the powerful chief Bágeri (Bú Bakr), and situated on a watercourse of some size, called by the Fúlbe “Máyo Gelangéro,” which joins the river Bénuwé at a hamlet called “Rúmde Hámma Salátu,” distant from Ribádo two days’ journey, sleeping the first night in a village of the Dáma, called Úro Kanáwachi[170], which is reached about two o’clock P.M., and arriving in Rúmde the next morning.

(b.) The middle road.

1st day. Lifóro, or Livóro, a cluster of two villages, one inhabited by pagans of the Dáma tribe, and the other by Fúlbe; arrive at noon. Wilderness the whole way.

2nd. Bárgirám[171], a Púllo settlement, and residence of a chief of the name of ʿOmáro; about noon. Dense forest the whole way.

3rd. Ribágo; a long day; arrive between four and five o’clock P.M.

(c.) The eastern road.

1st day. Bágalá, a Púllo settlement. About twelve miles S.E. from this place lies Bére, which will be mentioned further on.

2nd. “Bári hosére” (Bári the rocky hill), called so to distinguish it from another Bári, a Púllo settlement; before noon. Bári hosére is ten or twelve miles east from Bárgirám, and about fifteen miles N.E. from Bére.

3rd. Nákiri, a Púllo settlement; before noon.

4th. Ribágo. Expeditious travellers often make the journey from Ray to Ribágo in two days, passing the night in the farming-village Úro Íbbe.

iii. From Ribágo to Saráwu.

1st day. Lapáre-, or Lafáre-Fulfúlde, in order to distinguish it from the pagan village of the same name, Lafáre Héferbe (plural of “keféro,” “the infidel”); arrive before noon. N.N.W.

2nd. Wógoló, Fúlbe; forenoon.

3rd. Láyade, Fúlbe; arrive about noon, having passed on the road a place called Bay.

4th. Saurogúmji, Fúlbe; arrive about noon, having some time before left on the right the place Méso.

5th. Saráwu; arrive about four o’clock P.M. Soon after starting in the morning, the road is joined by the path coming from Méso; and then you pass the villages Dýllemi and Doernum.

From Ribágo to Báila is one day’s journey from early morning till about three o’clock P.M.; direction north. Pass in the morning a village called ʿOmáruwá, or more correctly Manjáula ʿOmáruwá (“the village of ʿOmár”), and about noon Búsa, both of them situated on the north side of the máyo Kébbi. In time of peace between the Mohammedan intruders and the pagan natives, the cattle of Báila are driven into the rich pasture-grounds of this valley. This valley, as forming almost a natural communication between the Bénuwé and the Shári, and in this way between the Gulf of Benín and the Tsád, is of the highest importance, and will receive more illustration further on.

iv. From Géwe to Lére. Rate very expeditious.

1st day. Óblo, a Púllo settlement in a mountainous country. A long day’s journey, direction N.E. Óblo is about ten miles north, or a little west from north, from Ribágo, passing by Lafáre.

2nd. Bifára, an independent pagan place, in a large green valley or fáddama, “chókel,” with a perennial rivulet, the máyo Kébbi, an eastern branch of the Bénuwé. The place itself lies on the north side of the valley, while on its south side there is a mountain.

3rd. Lére, a large pagan place of the Mbána, and residence of the powerful chief Gónshomé, who is greatly feared, as well by the Fúlbe as by the Kanúri. In the beginning of 1851, shortly before my journey to Yóla, in consequence of an expedition on a large scale being undertaken against him, he had been obliged to acknowledge, in a certain degree, the supremacy of the Fúlbe; but soon after, he again shook off all sort of allegiance. The situation of the place seems very strong, by reason of its position in the swampy wooded valley, which, according to all information, must have an immense extent. The larger valley, which comes from the east, is here joined by a small watercourse, which is said to descend from Bínder, and is identical, I think, with the máyo Saréndi. The Mbána form a numerous tribe, extending as far as Gidér, in which direction Bizér, Jabéri, and Lam are three of their chief frontier-places.

In going from Géwe to Lére, a person can also make stages in the following places: first night in Lafáre, the village mentioned before, situated on the N.W. side of the máyo Kébbi, where he arrives between two and three o’clock P.M.; second night Búsa, a Púllo village on the north side of the máyo Kébbi, where he arrives about noon, having left in the morning the village of Óblo towards the north; on the third, between two and three o’clock P.M., he arrives at Lére.

v. Ray to Lére.

1st day. Livóro, the pagan settlement of this name, in subjection to Búbanjídda; the country level. Arrive about noon.

2nd. Bére, a large Púllo place, with Mʿallem Ádama Agúrmama, who is said to be able to bring about a thousand horse into the field. Agúrma, his native place, from which he has received his surname, lies one day and a half from this place beyond the Bénuwé. A person going thither from Bére, passes the night in Gúmbolí, lying on the east bank of the river, and in the morning reaches Agúrma. About twelve miles north from this Bére lies another smaller Púllo place of the same name, surnamed Gárgabe, from a relation of Ádama’s; and east of Bére Gárgabe lies Bére Malómaró; and further eastward Jóro Súki, while to the north of this latter is situated the place of Mʿallem Hámma Duwé.

3rd. Duwé, the Púllo settlement just mentioned; a long march through a plain country, there being only an isolated mountain on the east side of the road.

4th. Lére. The watercourse of the máyo Kébbi, or Íbbi as it is also called, has so little inclination that the informant from whom I wrote this itinerary thought it joined the Shári.

vi. The valley of the máyo Kébbi, from Óblo to Démmo, my furthest point on the Músgu expedition, which will be described in the following volume.

Going from Óblo to Lére, along the wide and luxuriant fáddama of the máyo Kébbi (direction east), you first pass Búsa (see above), then turning southward along the sweep of the valley leave Manjáula, the village of ʿOmár, also on the north side of the valley, about eight miles S.E. from Óblo; then you leave Kacháwu, situated at the foot of a mountain which is visible even from Báila, on the south side of the valley; then Bifára, a considerable place, on the north side of the valley, and distant from Bínder three short days, arriving on the first day, before the heat, in Zábeli, the second about the same time in Míndang, a place of the Mbána which has been ransacked by Mohammed Lowel, and on the third day reaching Bínder about noon. Having passed the night in Bifára, the following day you leave Gégo on the south side of the valley, and further on Góngudúk, the birth-place of the father of the famous pagan chief Gónshomé, on a small island in a lake or large pond formed by a stemming of the shallow waters of the river; about noon you reach Lére. S.W. from Lére, and S.E. from Góngudúk, is another place called Filléngtenáne. Going from Lére to Démmo, you pass the first night in Máyo Lédde, a Púllo settlement governed by Ardo Chídda, and situated on a watercourse of the same name, which a little further north joins the máyo Kébbi; arrive here between two and three o’clock P.M. On the second day arrive before noon in Dóre, a Púllo settlement, still proceeding along the fáddama of the máyo Kébbi; and about ten miles further on you come to the Túburi or Túfuri, from whence Démmo is half a day N.E. But between Démmo and Túburi the fáddama is apparently interrupted, this rising ground of very little elevation forming the water-parting between the Niger and the Tsád.[172]

vii. From Chébowa to Láme.

1st day. Ngóng, a district consisting of two large villages inhabited by Fúlbe and pagans, and the residence of a chief called Njébbo. The country level; arrive between two and three o’clock P.M., having crossed the máyo Dúkka, which further on joins the Bénuwé.

2nd. Báme, a place inhabited conjointly by Fúlbe and Kanúri, the former, however, predominating. The population of Dýllemi, which is at some distance to the north, on a creek or inlet (ngáljam) of the river, also unites these two different elements. A short march, direction east.

3rd. Dóga, on the west bank of the Bénuwé, which is crossed here; the country flat.

4th. Gámsargú (identical, I think, with Gámforgó, p. 604.), a place inhabited by Kanúri and Fúlbe. Short march.

6th. Nákeri (see above). An expeditious traveller, starting from Báme in the dry season, may reach Nákeri early in the afternoon, crossing the Bénuwé at a place called Lágeri, and leaving Dóka to the south, then passing Gámsargú, and leaving Séni to the north.

7th. Bári hosére, a large place inhabited by Fúlbe, and the residence of the chief Hámed, who is dependent on Bágeri, the governor of Ribágo. The place is skirted on the east side by the máyo Hílle, being joined by another stream, called Máyo Dóro (not the same as that mentioned above), and which is said to join the máyo Kébbi.

8th. Bére Gárgabe, the place mentioned above, which may also be easily reached in one day from Nákeri, leaving Bári hosére a little southward. This place is also skirted by a stream called máyo Súk.

9th. Láme, a large village inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Mbána and by a few Fúlbe, in a flat country with a river which is stated (although the fact seems improbable), by all informants unanimously, to join the Shári, or rather Serbéwel (the river “Arre” or “Éré” of the Músgu), and which seems to be the same with the máyo Súk near Bére Gárgabe, called so after a place named Súk, which you pass early in the morning. From Láme to Lére is a very long day’s march of about thirty-five miles, direction N.N.W.

viii. From Ray to Láme and Lága.

(a.) Northern Road.

1st day. Lifóro héferbe, the pagan village of that name lying about eight miles east from the Púllo village of the same name (Lifóro Fulfúlde); arrive at noon. North.

2nd. Bére, early in the forenoon. N.N.E.

3rd. Láme; east.

(b.) Southern Road.

1st day. Dámtogó, a Púllo settlement; the country level, broken only by detached hills.

2nd. Dáli, a pagan village.

3rd. Láme.

4th. Duwé, a pagan village; the country well cultivated. Short march, east.

5th. Máfalá, a pagan village. None of these pagans are tattooed. About noon; direction E.S.E.

6th. Lága, or Láka, a large place inhabited exclusively by pagans (of the tribe of Mbána) who tattoo the left cheek and cheekbone; or rather, according to more accurate information, the men make a scar on the forehead and above the nose, while the women tattoo the right arm and shoulder.

ix. From Démmo, my furthest point in the Músgu country (see Vol. III.), to Lága, at a most expeditious rate.

1st day. Dáwa, a district with two rocky mountains inhabited by the Túfuri or Túburi, a tribe of the Falí, and with a large shallow stream, which forms the beginning of the máyo Kébbi, and which, according to this informant (Mʿallem Jýmma, a very intelligent Shúwa chief, of whom I shall speak in the following volume), receives the waters of the ngáljam of Démmo.

2nd. Kéra, a village inhabited by pagans, who perforate their lips; a long day’s journey.

3rd. Láka, a large pagan place, in some degree dependent on the lord of Búbanjídda, who extends his ghazzias, or rather “kónno,” as far as this place. The country is level, with the exception of a small rocky eminence. A rivulet which skirts Láka has, according to Mʿallem Jýmma, its inclination towards the river Serbéuwel, a statement which wants confirmation. The inhabitants, according to this informant, tattoo the breast.

Having traced, along the thread of these itineraries, the conquests of the Fúlbe towards the east and north-east over the regions inclosed between the Bénuwé and the Shári—a country which is sometimes pre-eminently called Jemmára, or rather Jemmáʿa, because the revolutionary and reformatory principle of the Fúlbe has here developed itself with eminent success,—I now return in the opposite direction, in order to follow the progress of these enterprising and restless people in their advance towards the Bight of Benín. The first effect of their advance is assuredly most calamitous, their road being marked by the ashes of burnt villages and the blood of thousands of unfortunate creatures; but, on the other hand, they have laid open these regions to inquiries which may be followed up by more efficacious proceedings; and it may be reasonably questioned whether these countries would ever have been opened to extensive commerce if they had remained in the hands of a motley multitude of petty pagan chiefs.

1. Routes to Báya.

i. Route from Ray Búba to Báya, a little west from south.

1st day. Hosére Chólle (the “Bird Rock”), a village lying round an isolated rocky hill where many of the wealthy inhabitants of Ray have second establishments; about noon.

2nd. Bumgórgo (Mbúm Górgo), a village inhabited by the slaves of the conquerors, and named after an influential overseer of that name, in a mountainous district; arrive between four and five o’clock P.M.

3rd. Saláng, a village inhabited by pagans of dark black colour, in a mountainous district. Cross, about noon, the Bénuwé, which is here already a considerable river, although I have been unable to learn any thing more accurate about its upper course, excepting that it is supposed to issue, at some day’s distance towards the south or S.S.E., from a great mountain with a large volume of water. Arrive between four and five o’clock P.M.

4th. Sleep in the wilderness.

5th. Báya, the principal place of the district or country of the same name. It lies in the midst between a forest and the mountains, and is said to be of the same size as Ngáundere (see further on). It is the residence of a chief named Báushi (a nickname?), who is under the supremacy of the governor of Búndang. The dwellings are all huts. The place has no market. The inhabitants go naked, with no covering but a leaf. They tattoo their bodies in undulating lines, and make a small hole in the left nostril; they have asses, sheep, and poultry in abundance, but neither horses nor neat-cattle; they catch elephants, which are very numerous, in pits, and feed on their flesh. Plenty of parrots. Much dukhn or Pennisetum is cultivated, while the banana is the principal fruit. The sexes observe a distinction with regard to food, the women abstaining from fowls—perhaps on the same principle as the women, in some parts of India, are prohibited to eat things which are regarded as delicacies. They have no cotton, but use shells as money. The only weapons of the people are wooden spears, which they do not poison. The Báya are evidently identical with Koelle’s and Dr. Baikie’s Bayong. The former of these two gentlemen has placed these people at far too great a distance into the interior.

ii. From Yóla to Báya by way of Gúrin.

 1st day. Gúrin (see above), the former residence of the Púllo ruler of Ádamáwa.

 2nd. Lamórde, a considerable place, inhabited by pagans[173]; arrive between one and two o’clock P.M. The road lies along the east bank of the river Fáro, which is crossed, on first setting out from Gúrin, by a ford in the dry season, but in a boat during the rains. The country plain; mountains in the distance. You then turn a little west from south. On the west side of the river is Chámba, a large place situated at the foot of Mount Alantíka, and inhabited by Fúlbe, the residence of Ámba Sámbo.

 3rd. A village of the pagan Búte, between one and two o’clock P.M. The country is mountainous on both sides of the road, the Fáro being some distance off towards the west. As is the case throughout Ádamáwa, there is here abundance of honey.

 4th. A Púllo village situated on a river running N.W. into the Fáro, and called máyo Koléjo. Here resides a petty governor called Ardo Mohammed; the whole country is mountainous. The inhabitants maintain that the soil contains gold, but that they do not know how to collect it. Arrive between one and two o’clock P.M.

 5th. A pagan village, situated in the midst of separate groups of mountains, and governed by a chief called Njaréndi. The whole country is under cultivation, the crops consisting in dukhn, durra, ground-nuts, and cotton. Arrive between four and five o’clock P.M.

 6th. A Púllo village, the residence (jóro) of the chief Kábdu, and therefore called “Jóro Kábdu.” The country through which the road lies is mountainous; and its inhabitants are pagans, but of very handsome figure.

 7th. Pass the night among the pagan slaves of the Fúlbe (Rúmde Ngáundere); arrive towards sunset.

 8th. Ngáundere, a place of considerable size for this country, said to be about as large as Gúmmel in Bórnu, and surrounded with a low rampart; the dwellings are built entirely of reeds, with the exception of the house of the governor and the mosque, the former being built of clay, and the latter of clay and reeds. A daily market is held. Arrive a little before noon.

 9th. A slave village (rúmde) of the slaves of the Ardo, in a mountainous country, with watercourses in the valley. Arrive between one and two o’clock P.M.

10th. Another pagan village; many small hamlets scattered about.

11th. A village of the Mbúm, a large tribe of pagans, well-proportioned, who tattoo their bodies, make cuts in the chin, and file the teeth to a point. They live partly in the valley and partly on the top of the mountains.

12th. Báya.

iii. From Chámba to Báya, preceded by an itinerary from Yóla and Kóncha to Chámba.

1st day. Máibatí (Máyo Béti), a Pullo village situated on a small rivulet called máyo Béti, and joining the Fáro.

2nd. Lamórde, the place mentioned in the preceding itinerary, situated on the river Fáro.

N.B. It seems almost as if Gúrin had been accidentally omitted in this itinerary; at least, the place where the river is crossed cannot be far distant from that town. The road keeps awhile along the bank of the river; fine country; mountains only at some distance from the road.

3rd. Chámba, a considerable place, in a fine position, bordered by the river Fáro towards the east, and by the offshoots of Mount Alantíka towards the west, from which however it seems to be separated by a smaller stream. Mount Alantíka, which forms a gigantic mountain mass, is densely inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Bátta, who are governed by seven different chiefs, and supply themselves with iron from Mount Kárin, lying on the east side of the river, half a day’s journey from Lamórde; mountains are seen all around. Chámba is almost exclusively inhabited by Fúlbe, and is the residence of the powerful governor Ámba Sámbo, a very warlike man, but now rather old. Chámba is three days’ journey from Kóncha, in starting from which place you pass the first night in Láro, the second in the town of Yáji (the mighty ancestor of Ámba Sámbo), and on the third reach Chámba. This road keeps along a river, which you have to cross twice, but with regard to the identity of which with the Déve I am not quite certain.

iv. From Chámba to Báya by a western road.

 1st day. Lamórde, the place mentioned above, having crossed the river Fáro immediately on setting out.

 2nd. Gabdómana, a pagan village, with a rúmde; the name probably has some connection with that of the chief Kábdo or Gábdo.

 3rd. Encamp in the wilderness.

 4th. Bére, a pagan village on the top of a hill, and at a short distance northward a village inhabited by Kánembú and Kanúri. The country is intersected by small rivulets.

 5th. Rúmde Ngáundere, a small slave-village.

 6th. Ngáundere, the principal place in the country of the Mbúm, surrounded by a low wall, and containing a few houses of clay, and the residence or jóro of Hámed, who governs the country as far as Búndang, and is said to be able to bring 500 horse into the field. It is situated at the western foot of a hill, while towards the west there rises another hill. The people unanimously state that the place is situated exactly south from Chámba. The country produces Sorghum vulgare, a peculiar sort of sorghum called mathá, rice, and cotton.

 7th. Katíl, in a mountainous district. During the first part of this day’s march, the direction being S.E., the river, which runs here from east to west, is close on the right of the traveller; it is called Máyo Nélbi, and joined by another smaller one, called Njárang. During the latter part of the rainy season even here it can be crossed only in boats. However, this is not the direct road, but a great circuit; a traveller who follows the direct road from Bére arrives in one day at Katíl, after a march of about nine hours, direction south.

 8th. Yángaré, a pagan village in a mountainous country, near a rivulet which joins the Fáro; a very long day’s journey.

 9th. Yére, a pagan village of another tribe, in a wide plain destitute of trees and intersected with rivulets; arrive about noon.

10th. Principal place of Báya, which the informant of this route, Mʿallem Katúri, represents as a country mountainous towards the east, but entirely level towards the west. This last day’s march from Yére is a very long one; and people generally pass the night on the road, and enter Báya the following morning.

v. From Kóncha to Jóro Fángel, and from thence to Báya.
(a.) Middle road.

1st day. A “rúmde” of the slaves of Mohammed dan Jóbdi the governor of Kóncha, on the banks of the mayo Béli, along the eastern bank of which the traveller continues his march, in a wide valley inclosed on both sides by mountain-chains.

2nd. Rúmde Fángel; that is to say, the rúmde or slave-village of Jóro Fángel, on a hill of considerable elevation. The slaves are of the tribe of the Tekʿa.

3rd. Jóro Fángel, the “lord’s seat” of Fángel, the chief who has established in these quarters the dominion of the Fúlbe; a place of middling size, in a valley inclosed by mountains.

(b.) Westernmost road. [N.B. Rate rather slow.]

1st day. Rúmde Kaighámman, a slave-village belonging to Kóncha, in a level country; arrive a little after noon. The name Kaighámman originally belonged to the Kanúri.

2nd. Encamp on the bank of the máyo Tafári, which, running from west to east, but further on turning northward, receives the máyo Léggel, which is crossed in the morning soon after leaving the rúmde, and the máyo Bénglarí, which is crossed further on; both these watercourses are dry in summer. Arrive about four o’clock P.M.

3rd. Úro Bákari Yémyem, the residence of the Púllo chief of the Bákari, overtowered towards the west by a large mountain; arrive early in the forenoon.

4th. Rúmde Bákari Yémyem, with a mountain-chain rising to a considerable elevation towards the south; arrive early in the forenoon.

5th. Jóro Fángel; the east side of the place is skirted, according to the Púllo Ádama, an intelligent native of Ádamáwa, by the máyo Bána or Mbána, which, at a short distance from Tíngeren, joins the Fáro. Arrive before noon. This well-known place, Jóro Fángel, is not to be confounded with a smaller place of the same name.

An expeditious traveller, keeping along the most direct eastern road, and sleeping in Lámtam, is able to reach Jóro Fángel on the second day.

vi. From Jóro Fángel to Báya.

1st day. Tínger, a Púllo settlement, the residence of Ádama Jíkera, a powerful Púllo chief, who commands the tribe of the Bákari, or Bákari Yémyem, who are said to be cannibals. Ádama Jíkera, who is the brother of Sámbo Jíkera, has about one hundred horse under his command. This place is not to be confounded with a place of a similar name, Téngeren, the residence of another chief of the name of Ádama Jíkera, which I shall mention further on.

2nd. A village inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Jétem, as they are called by the Fúlbe, who most probably have been transplanted hither: the village is skirted by the river Fáro, which is here small, although during part of the year it becomes navigable for boats; towards the east rises a considerable hill. Arrive between two and three o’clock P.M.

3rd. Rúmde Ngáundere, the slave-village mentioned above, with a large mountain towards the east; arrive between two and three o’clock P.M.

4th. Ngáundere.

The following is a more direct road from Kóncha to Ngáundere:—

1st day. Encamp on the máyo Béli, in a very level country with several small slave-hamlets lying round about; arrive at noon; direction S.S.E.

2nd. Púllo settlement of Ámba Sámbo Jíkera, or Zíkera (Jíkera being the name of his grandfather), with a large mountain on the north side; arrive about noon; S.S.E.

3rd. Fílla-Ngáwu, a village of the Mbúm, in a mountainous district, with very small watercourses. Hence half a day’s march N.E., and a day and a half from Ámba Sámbo Jíkera, is the Téngeren which I mentioned above, consisting of two separate villages—a Púllo settlement towards the west, and, about six miles east, a pagan village of the Mbúm, in a mountainous district. Téngeren is also a day and a half’s march from Rúmde Ngáundere, the traveller who comes from the former place passing the night in a rúmde of Ámba Sámbo, on the north bank of the Fáro.

4th. Ngáundere, between three and four o’clock P.M.

5th. A village of the Mbúm, situated on the bank of the máyo Nélbi, which joins the máyo Gelangéro. This stream is perennial, and during part of the year even navigable; on the south side of the village is a mountain. Arrive in the forenoon.

6th. Mambúm (properly Ma-Mbúm), a considerable place, and residence of Arnádo, a chief of the tribe of the Mbúm, skirted on its east side by the máyo Nélbi, in a level country; arrive about noon. Mambúm is distant from Katíl one day’s march, S.W.

7th. Rískobáya, a village of the pagan Mbúm, thus denominated from a man named Rísko, a slave of Mohammed Jóbdi. The southern side of the village is bordered by a watercourse, dry in summer, called by the Fúlbe “máyo balléwo;” on the east side there is a mountain, and the whole road is mountainous. Arrive between four and five o’clock P.M.

8th. Encamp in the wilderness about two o’clock P.M.

9th. Dóka, or rather the residence of Dóka, the principal chief of the Báya country. I cannot say with certainty whether this place be the same as that where the other itinerary terminates. The country level, and covered with dense forest.

vii. From Chámba to Tibáti.
(a.) Eastern road.

1st day. Búbadáddi, the village mentioned above, situated in the southern angle formed by the junction of the river of Kóncha (called by some Máyo Íbbi, by others M. Déve) with the Fáro; about noon.

2nd. Rúmde Dírrim, a hamlet of the slaves of Ámba Sámbo, who originally belong to the tribe of the Mbúm. The country level; much forest. Arrive about noon.

3rd. Rúmde Fáro, another slave-village of Ámba Sámbo (which, however, has a name in the native language also), situated on the north side of the Fáro, which here makes a sweep from west to east. Arrive between two and three o’clock P.M., having crossed in the morning several small streams, and further on a mountain-chain, which seems to border the valley of the river on the north side.

4th. Rúmde Dúbbel, another slave-village; arrive about noon, having crossed the river Fáro in the morning, and then traversed a dense forest, full of elephants, in a level country.

5th. Tibáti, a large walled town, being the only town of this description in Ádamáwa besides Ray Búba—Ngáundere being merely fortified with a low rampart,—but inhabited for the most part by slaves, and not by Fúlbe. It is the residence of a governor. The town is situated on a small river skirting its north-eastern side, and then running N.W. towards the Fáro, which it is said to join one day’s journey west from Rúmde Fáro. It is generally called Kogí-n-Tibáti. On the north side of the town there seems to be a large swamp, perhaps an inlet of the river. Tibáti boasts, according to all my informants, of the richest vegetation in all Ádamáwa. About ten miles west from the town is a more considerable river, not fordable during some months, which, according to my best informants, is the máyo Béli, coming from a considerable distance S.W.

(b.) Western road, according to Mohammed.

1st day. Bómbaké, a Púllo village; before noon.

2nd. Encamp on the bank of a rivulet (the máyo Kotégo?) running westward, between two and three o’clock P.M.

3rd. Gábdi Mbána, a village of the pagan Mbúm (Mbána?), in a level country; about noon.

4th. Kóro-Mbána, another pagan village; before noon.

5th. The residence of Ádama Jíkera (see above); at the same time.

6th. Varvándu, a place situated on the south side of a river which informant calls the Fáro, and which is crossed on branches of trees. Towards S.E. a mountain is seen.

7th. Another place of Ádama Jíkera, in a level country; about noon.

8th. Tibáti.

(c.) According to Mʿallem Katúri.

 1st day. Gungúti, a considerable Púllo place in a level country, the southern horizon alone being bordered by mountains. Early in the morning the broad river Fáro is crossed, during the latter part of the rainy season and shortly afterwards, in boats, at other times of the year by fording. Arrive between two and three o’clock P.M.

 2nd. Pass the night out in a hilly country full of elephants and buffaloes, while the deléb-palm or gigiña, and the gónda or Papaya predominate in the forest[174]; arrive at two or three o’clock P.M.

 3rd. A village of the pagan Mbána, in a woody country, with mountains towards west and south. Road mostly keeps along the bank of a rivulet, which is said to join the Fáro. Arrive between two and three o’clock P.M.

 4th. Hamlets of the pagan Múmbere (?), who live on the summits of the mountains, the whole country being mountainous, and the road leading over the heights.

 5th. Encamp near a large lake or swamp, which informant calls by the Háusa appellation “rúwa-n-dórina” (“Hippopotamus water”), in a hollow between the mountains; arrive between four and five o’clock P.M.

 6th. The large settlement of Ámba Sámbo Jíkera, surrounded by hills.

 7th. The Púllo settlement of Ádama Jíkera, in a valley-plain surrounded by mountains on all sides, and intersected by a small rivulet.

 8th. A pagan village, Varvándu, in a plain, through which the Fáro runs from south to north.

 9th. Encamp in an uninhabited woody country perfectly level.