| CHAPTER I.—The Brig Francis—Departure from New York—San Domingo—The Coast of Central America—Monkey Point—Shrewd Speculations—A Naked Pilot—Almost a Shipwreck—San Juan de Nicaragua—Music of the Chain Cable—A Pompous Official—Delivering a Letter of Introduction—Terra Firma again—“Naguas” and “Guipils”—The Town and its Laguna—Snakes and Alligators—Practical Equality—Celt vs. Negro—A Wan Policeman—The British Consul General for Mosquitia—“Our House” in San Juan—An Emeute—Pigs and Policy—A Viscomte on the Stump—A Serenade—Mosquito Indians—A Picture of Primitive Simplicity, | 17 |
| CHAPTER II.—The Port of San Juan de Nicaragua; its Position; Climate; Population; Edifices of its Inhabitants; its Insects; The Nigua; The Scorpion, etc.; its Exports and Imports; Political Condition; Importance, Present and Prospective; Seizure by the English, etc.—Mouth of the River San Juan—The Colorado Mouth—The Tauro—Navigation of the River—Bongos and Piraguas—Los Marineros—Discovery and early History of the Port of San Juan, | 41 |
| CHAPTER III.—The Magnates of San Juan—Captain Samuel Shepherd—Royal Grants—Vexatious Delays—Imposing Departure—Entrance of the River San Juan—“Peeling” of the Marineros—Character of the Stream—The Juanillo—An Immemorial Stopping-place—Bongos and their Equipments and Stores—Meals—Esprit du Corps among the Boatmen—The “Oracion”—Queer Caprices—Medio—Our Accommodation—A Specimen Night on the River—Morning Scenes and Impressions—Bongo Life—The Colorado Mouth—Change of Scenery—The Iguana—A Solitary Establishment—Tropical Ease—The Rio Serapiqui—Fight between the Nicaraguans and the English—“A famous victory”—The Rio San Francisco—Remolino Grande—Picturesque River Views—The Hills and Pass of San Carlos—Thunder Storms—The Machuca Rapids—Melchora Indians—Rapids of Mico and Los Valos—Rapids of the Castillo—Island of Bartola—Capture by Lord Nelson—The “Castillo Viejo,” or Old Castle of San Juan—“A Dios California!”—Ascend to the Ruins—Strong Works—Capture of the Fort by the English in 1780—Failure of the Expedition against Nicaragua; a Scrap of History—Passage of the Rapids—Different Aspect of the River—A Black Eagle—Ninety Miles in Six Days—The Port of San Carlos—Great Lake of Nicaragua—Land at San Carlos—The Commandante—Hearty Welcome—Novel Scenes—Ancient Defences—View from the Fort—The Rio Frio—The Gnatosos Indians—A Paradise for Alligators—Some Happy Institutions of theirs, | 55 |
| CHAPTER IV.—San Carlos—Dinner at the Commandante’s—Introduction to “Tortillas y Frijoles”—A Siesta—News of the attempted Revolution—Anticipating Events, and what happened to the Commandante after we left—Departure under a Military Salvo—View of San Carlos from the Lake—Lake Navigation—Card Playing—Gorgeous Sunset—A Midnight Storm—San Migueleto, and the “Bath of the Naides”—Primitive Simplicity—A Day on the Lake—“El Pedernal”—A Bath with Alligators—An “Empacho”—A Trial at Medicine, and great Success—Second Night on the Lake—The Volcanoes of Momobacho, Ometepec, and Madeira—Volcanic Scenery—The Coast of Chontales—The Crew on Politics—“Timbucos” and “Calandracas,” or a Glance at Party Divisions—Arrival at “Los Corals”—Some Account of them—Alarming News—A Council of War—Faith in the United States Flag—The Island of Cuba—More News, and a Return of the “Empacho”—Distant View of Granada—Making a Toilet—Bees—Arrival at the Ruined Fort of Granada—How they Land there—Sensation amongst the Spectators—Entrance to the City—The Abandoned Convent of San Francisco—The Houses of the Inhabitants—First Impressions—Soldiers and Barricades—Thronged Streets—Señor Don Frederico Derbyshire—“Our Host”—A Welcome—Official Courtesies—Our Quarters—First Night in Granada, | 91 |
| CHAPTER V.—Reception-Day—General Respect and Admiration for the United States—An Evening Ride—The Plaza—Churches—Hospital—The “Jalteva”—Deserted Municipality—Melancholy Results of Faction—The Arsenal—Natural Defences of the City—“Campo Santo”—An Ex-Director and his “Hacienda”—Shore of the Lake in the Evening—Old Castle—The “Oracion”—An Evening Visit to the Señoritas—Opera amidst Orange Groves—“Alertas” and “Quien Vivas?”—The Granadinas at Home—An Episode on Women and Dress—Mr. Estevens—“Los Malditos Inglesas”—A Female Antiquarian Coadjutor—“Cigaritas”—Indian Girls—Countrymen—An American “Medico”—Native Hospitality to Strangers—The Ways infested by “Facciosos”—An American turned Back—Expected Assault on the City, and Patriotic Resolves “To Die under the American Flag”—A Note on Horses and Saddles—Visit to the Cacao Estates of the Malaccas—The Cacao Tree—Day-Dreams—An Adventure, almost—Grievous Disappointment—Somoza, the Robber Chief—Our Armory—Feverishness of the Public Mind—Life under the Tropics—A Frightened American, who had “seen Somoza,” and his Account of the Interview—Somoza’s Love for the Americans—Good News from Leon—Approach of the General-in-Chief, and an Armed American Escort—Condition of Public Affairs—Proclamation of the Supreme Director—Decrees of the Government—Official Announcements, and Public Addresses—How they Exhibited the Popular Feeling—Nicaraguan Rhetoric—Decisive Measures to put down the Insurgents—General Call to Arms—Martial Law—Publication of a “Banda”—Great Preparations to Receive the General-in-Chief and his “Veteranos”—No further Fear of the “Facciosos”—A Break-neck Ride to the “Laguna de Salinas”—A Volcanic Lake—Descent to the Water—How came Alligators there?—Native “Aguardiente” “not bad to take”—Return to the City—A Religious Procession—The Host—Increasing Tolerance of the People—Preparations for “La Mañana.” | 121 |
| CHAPTER VI.—Discovery of Nicaragua in 1522; Gil Gonzales de Avila, and his march into the Country; Lands at Nicoya; Reaches Nicaragua and has an Interview with its Cazique; Is closely questioned; Marches to Dirianga, where he is at first received, but afterwards attacked and forced to retreat; Peculiarities of the Aborigines; Their wealth; Arrival of Francisco Hernandez de Cordova; He subdues the country, and founds the cities of Granada and Leon; Return of Gonzales; Quarrels between the Conquerors; Pedro Arias de Avila, the first Governor of Nicaragua; His death; Is succeeded by Roderigo de Contreras; His son, Hernandez de Contreras, rebels against Spain; Meditates the entire independence of all Spanish America on the Pacific; Succeeds in carrying Nicaragua; Sails for Panama; Captures it; Marches on Nombre de Dios, but dies on the way; Failure of his daring and gigantic Project; Subsequent Incorporation of Nicaragua in the Vice-Royalty of Guatemala—The City of Granada in 1665, by Thomas Gage, an English Monk; Nicaragua called “Mahomet’s Paradise;” The Importance of Granada at that Period; Subsequent Attack by the Pirates, in 1668; Is Burnt; Their Account of it; The Site of Granada; Eligibility of its Position; Population; Commerce; Foreign Merchants; Prospective Importance—Lake Nicaragua; Its Discovery and Exploration; Interesting Account of it by the Chronicler Oviedo, written in 1541; Its Outlet Discovered by Captain Diego Machuca; The wild beasts on its Shores; The Laguna of Songozona; Sharks in the Lake, their Rapacity; Supposed Tides in the Lake; Explanation of the Phenomenon, | 157 |
| CHAPTER VII.—Narrative Continued—Arrival of the General-in-Chief—The Army—Fireworks by Daylight—Prisoners—Interview with Gen. Muñoz—Arrival of the Californian Escort—“Piedras Antiguas”—The Stone of the Big Mouth—“El Chiflador”—Other Antiquities—Preparations for Departure—Carts and “Carreteros”—Vexatious Delays—Departure—How I got a Good Horse for a Bad Mule on the Road—Distant View of the Lakes—The Freedom of the Forest—Arrival at Masaya—Grand Entree—Deserted Plaza—A Military Execution—A “Posada”—“Hijos de Washington”—Disappointed Municipality—We escape an Ovation—Road to Nindiri—Apostrophe to Nindiri!—Overtake the Carts—“Alguna Fresca”—Approach the Volcano of Masaya—The “Mal Pais”—Lava Fields—View of the Volcano—Its Eruptions—“El Inferno de Masaya,” the Hell of Masaya—Oviedo’s Account of his Visit to it in 1529—Activity at that Period—The Ascent—The Crater—Superstitions of the Indians—The Old Woman of the Mountain—The Descent of the Fray Blas Castillo into the Crater, | 173 |
| CHAPTER VIII.—Magnificent Views of Scenery—“Relox del Sol”—John Jones and Antiquities—An “Alarm;” Revolvers and a Rescue—Distant Bells—Don Pedro Blanco—Managua—Another Grand Entree—Our Quarters—Supper Service—Enacting the Lion—Virtues of Aguardiente—An “Obsequio,” or Torch-light Procession in Honor of the United States—A National Anthem—Night with the Fleas—Fourth of July and a Patriotic Breakfast—Saint Jonathan—Leave Managua—Matearas—Privileges of a “Compadre”—Lake of Managua—A magnificent View—The Volcano of Momotombo—A Solitary Ride—Geological Puzzle—Nagarote—The Posada—Mules abandoned—A Sick Californian—Dinner at a Padre’s—The Santa Annita—Virtues of a Piece of Stamped Paper—A Storm in the Forest—Pueblo Nuevo—Five Daughters in Satin Shoes—Unbroken Slumbers—Advance on Leon—Axusco—A Fairy-Glen—The great Plain of Leon—A “touch” of Poetry—Meet the American Consul—A Predicament—Cavalcade of Reception—New Illustration of Republican Simplicity—El Convento—A Metamorphosis—The Bishop of Nicaragua—Forest, Miss Clifton, Mr. Clay—Criticism on Oratory—Nine Volcanoes in a row—Distant View of the Great Cathedral—The City—Imposing Demonstrations—The Grand Plaza—A Pantomimic Speech and Reply—The Ladies, “God bless them!”—House of the American Consul—End of the Ceremonies—Self-congratulations thereon—A Serenade—Martial Aspect of the City—Trouble anticipated—Precautions of the Government, | 201 |
| CHAPTER IX.—The City of Leon—Originally built on the Shores of the Lake Managua—Cause of its Removal—Its present Site—Dwellings of its Inhabitants—Style of Building—Devastation of the Civil Wars—Public Buildings—The Great Cathedral—Its Style of Architecture; Interior; Magnificent View from the Roof—The “Cuarto de los Obispos,” or Gallery of the Bishops—The University—The Bishop’s Palace—“Casa del Gobierno”—“Cuartel General”—The Churches of La Merced; Calvario; Recoleccion—Hospital of San Juan de Dios—Stone Bridge—Indian Municipality of Subtiaba—Population of Leon—Predominance of Indian Population—Destruction of Stocks—Mixed Races—Society of Leon—The Females; their Dress—Social Gatherings: the “Tertulia”—How to “break the Ice” and open a Ball—Native Dances—Personal cleanliness of the People—General Temperance—“Aguardiente” and “Italia”—Food—The Tortilla—Frijoles—Plantains—The Markets—Primitive Currency—Meals—Coffee, Chocolate, and “Tiste”—Dulces—Trade of Leon, | 237 |
| CHAPTER X.—The Vicinity of Leon—The Bishop’s Baths—Fuenta de Axusco—“Cerro de Los Americanos”—A Military Ball and Civic Dinner—General Guerrero—Official Visit from the Indian Municipality of Subtiaba—Simon Roque—A Secret—Address and Reply—Visit Returned—The Cabildo—An Empty Treasury—“Subtiaba, Leal y Fiel”—Royal Cedulas—Forming a Vocabulary—“Una Decima”—The Indians of Nicaragua; Stature; Complexion; Disposition; Bravery; Industry; Skill in the Arts—Manufacture of Cotton—Primitive Mode of Spinning—Tyrian Purple—Petates and Hammocks—Pottery—“Aguacales,” and “Jicoras”—Costume—Ornaments—Aboriginal Institutions—The Conquest of Nicaragua—Enormities practised toward the Indians—Present Condition of the Indians—The Sequel of Somoza’s Insurrection—Battles of the Obraje and San Jorge—Capture and Execution of Somoza—Moderate Policy of the Government—Return of General Muñoz—Medals—Festival of Peace—Novel Procession—A Black Saint, | 261 |
| CHAPTER XI.—Antiquities—Ancient Statue in the Grand Plaza—Monuments on the Island of Momotombita in Lake Managua—Determine to visit them—The Padre Paul—Pueblo Nuevo and our Old Hostess—A Night Ride—“Hacienda de las Vacas”—A Night amongst the “Vaqueros”—The Lake—Our Bongo—Visit the Hot Springs of Momotombo—Attempt to reach one of the “Infernales” of the Volcano—Terrible Heat—Give up the Attempt—Oviedo’s Account of the Volcano—“Punta de los Pajaros”—Momotombita—Dread of Rattlesnakes—The Monuments—Resolve to remove the largest—A Nest of Scorpions—Tribulation of our Crew—Hard Work—How to ship an Idol—Virtues of Aguardiente—“Purchasing an Elephant”—More “Piedras Antiguas”—The Island once Inhabited—Supposed Causeway to the Main-land—A Perilous Night Voyage—Difficult Landing—Alacran, or Scorpion Dance—A Foot-march in the Forest—The “Hacienda de los Vacas” again—Scant Supper—Return to Leon—The Idol sent, via Cape Horn, to Washington—A Satisfied Padre—Idols from Subtiaba—Monstrous Heads—Visit to an Ancient Temple—Fragments—More Idols—Indian Superstitions—“El Toro”—Lightning on Two Legs—A Chase after Horses—Sweet Revenge—“Capilla de la Piedra”—Place of the Idol—The Fray Francisco de Bobadilla—How he Converted the Indians—Probable History of my Idols—The Ancient Church “La Mercedes de Subtiaba”—Its Ruins—“Agarrapatas”—Tropical Insects—Snakes and Scorpions versus Fleas and Wood-ticks—A Choice of Evils, | 285 |
| CHAPTER XII.—Amusements in Leon—Cock Fighting—“Patio de Los Gallos”—Decline of the Cock-pit—Gaming—Bull Baiting—Novel Riding—“Una Sagrada Funcion,” or Mystery—A Poem, and a Drama—“Una Compania de Funambulos,” or Rope Dancers—Great Anticipations—A Novel Theatre—The Performance—“La Jovena Catalina” and the “Eccentric Clown, Simon”—“Tobillos Gruesos,” or “Big Ankles”—“Fiestas,“ and Saints’ Days—The “Fiesta” of St. Andrew—Dance of the Devils—Unearthly Music—All-Saints’ Day—A Carnival in Subtiaba—An Abrupt Conclusion, | 313 |
| CHAPTER XIII.—A Sortie from Leon—Quesalguaque—El Estero de Doña Paula—The “Monte de San Juan”—Summary way of disposing of “Ladrones”—“El Tigre,” Jaguar, or Ounce, Its Habits; How Hunted—The “Lion,” or Puma—The “Coyote”—Posultega—A Specimen Padre—Sobrinas—Chichigalpa—Poised Thunder-storm—The Oracion—Hacienda of San Antonio—Chinandega—A Challenge—El Viejo—Familiar Fixtures—An Enterprizing Citizen and his Tragic Fate—A Decaying Town—Horses vs. Mules—Visit to the Haciendas—An Indigo Estate, and a Mayor Domo—Fine View—The Sugar Estate of San Geronimo—Bachelor Quarters and Hacienda Life—A Fruit Garden—The Bread-Fruit—Sugar-mills, and the Manufacture of Aguardiente—A Sinful Siesta—Visit From the Municipality—“Una Cancion”—Chinandega by Daylight—Realejo—Port and Harbor—The Progress of Enterprize—The Projected New Town of Corinth—Return to Leon, | 329 |
| CHAPTER XIV.—The Priesthood in Nicaragua—Decline in the Influence of the Church—-Banishment of the Archbishop—Suppression of the Convents—Prohibition of Papal Bulls—Legitimization of the Children of Priests—The Three Abandoned Convents of Leon—Padre Cartine, the last of the Franciscans—Reception, or Clock-room—The Padre’s Pets; His Oratory; Private Apartments; Workshop—A Skull and its History—The Eglesia del Recoleccion—The Padre as a Landlord; As a Painter; As an Uncle; And as Negociator in Marriage—An Auspicious Omen—Death of the Vicar of the Diocess of Nicaragua—His Obsequies—A Funeral Oration—Priestly Eloquence—An Epitaph—General Funeral Ceremonies—Death as an Angel of Mercy—Burial Practices—Capellanias; Their Effects, and the Policy of the Government in Respect to them—Popular Bigotry and Superstition—An Ancient Indulgence—The Potency of an Ejaculation—Remission of Sins—Penetencias—Rationale of the Practice—Novel Penances—Turning Sins to Good Account—Good from Evil—System of the Padre Cartine—The Diocess of Nicaragua, and its Bishop—General Education—Public Schools—The Universities of Leon and Granada—A Sad Picture, | 355 |
| CHAPTER XV.—Visits to the capital City, Managua—Legislative Assembly; How to procure a Quorum—Executive Message—Ratification of Treaty with the United States—Antiquities—Lake of Nihapa—Huertas—Dividing Ridge—Traces of Volcanic Action—Hacienda de Ganado—An Extensive Prospect—Extinct Crater—Ancient Paintings on the Cliffs—Symbolical Feathered Serpent—A Natural Temple—Superstitions of the Indians—Salt Lake—Laguna de Las Lavadoras—A Courier—Three Months Later from Home—The Shore of Lake Managua—Aboriginal Fisheries—Ancient Carving—Population of Managua—Resources of surrounding Country—Coffee—Inhabitants—Visit Tipitapa—Sunrise on the Lake—Hot Springs—Outlet of Lake—Mud and Alligators—Dry Channel—Village of Tipitapa—Surly Host—Salto de Tipitapa—Hot Springs again—Stone Bridge—Face of the Country—Nicaragua or Brazil Wood—Estate of Pasquel—Practical Communism—Matapalo or Kill-tree—Landing and Estero of Pasquel or Panaloya—Return—Depth of Lake Managua—Communication between the two Lakes—Popular Errors, | 383 |
| CHAPTER XVI.—Second Antiquarian Expedition—The Shores of Lake Managua once more—Matearas—Don Henrique’s Comadre—I am engaged as Godfather—An Amazon—Santa Maria de Buena Vista—A “Character” in Petticoats—“La Negrita y La Blanquita”—Purchase of Buena Vista—A Yankee Idea in a Nicaraguan Head—Hints for Speculators—Muchacho vs. Burro—Equestrian Intoxication—Another Apostrophe!—Pescadors—“Hay no mas,” and “Esta aqui,” as Measures of Distance—Managua—The “Malpais,” Nindiri and Masaya—Something Cool—A Pompous Alcalde—How to Arrest Conspirators—Flowers of the Palm—Descent to the Lake—Memorials of Catastrophes—Las Aguadoras—New Mode of Sounding Depths—Ill-bred Monkeys—Traditional Practices—Oviedo’s Account of the Lake in 1529—Sardines—The Plaza on Market Night—A Yankee Clock—Something Cooler—A State Bedroom for a Minister—Ancient Church—Filling out a Vocabulary—“Quebrada de las Inscripciones”—Sculptured Rocks—Their Character—Ancient Excavations in the Rock—“El Baño”—Painted Rocks of Santa Catarina—Night Ride to Granada—The Laguna de Salinas by Moonlight—Granada in Peace—A Query Touching Human Happiness—New Quarters and Old Friends—An American Sailor—His Adventures—“Win or Die”—A Happy Sequel, | 413 |
| CHAPTER XVII.—Visit to Pensacola—Discovery of Monuments—Search for others—Success—Departure for “El Zapatero”—La Carlota—Los Corales—Isla de La Santa Rosa—A Night Voyage—Arrival at Zapatero—Search for Monuments—False Alarm—Discovery of Statues—Indians from Ometepec—A Strong Force—Further Investigations—Mad Dance—Extinct Crater and Volcanic Lake—Stone of Sacrifice—El Canon—Description of Monuments, and their probable Origin—Life on the Island, | 447 |
| CHAPTER XVIII.—Return to Granada—A Ball in Honor of “El Ministro”—The Funambulos—Departure for Rivas or Nicaragua—Hills of Scoriæ—The Insane Girl and the Brown Samaritan—A Way-side Idol—Mountain Lakes and Strange Birds—A Sudden Storm—Take Refuge among the “Vaqueros”—Inhospitable Reception—Night Ride; Darkness and Storm—Friendly Indians—Indian Pueblo of Nandyme—The Hacienda of Jesus Maria—An Astonished Mayor Domo—How to get a Supper—Jicorales—Ochomogo—Rio Gil Gonzales—The “Obraje”—Rivas and its Dependencies—Señor Hurtado—His Cacao Plantation—The City—Effect of Earthquakes and of Shot—Attack of Somoza—Another American—His attempt to cultivate Cotton on the Island of Ometepec—Murder of his Wife—Failure of his Enterprize—A Word about Cotton Policy—The Antiquities of Ometepec—Aboriginal Burial Places—Funeral Vases—Relics of Metal—Golden Idols—A Copper Mask—Antique Pottery—A Frog in Verd Antique—Sickness of my Companions—The Pueblo of San Jorge—Shore of the Lake—Feats of Horsemanship—Lance Practice—Visit Potosi—Another Remarkable Relic of Aboriginal Superstition—The Valley of Brito—An Indigo Estate—Cultivation of Indigo—Village of Brito—A Decaying Family and a Decayed Estate—An Ancient Vase—Observations on the Proposed Canal—Return alone to Granada—Despatches—A forced March to Leon, | 491 |
| CHAPTER XIX.—Volcanoes of Central America; their Number—Volcano of Jorullo—Isalco—The Volcanic Chain of the Marabios—Infernales—“La Baila de Los Demonios”—Volcanic Outburst on the Plain of Leon—Visit to the New Volcano, and Narrow Escape—Baptizing a Volcano—Eruption of Coseguina—Celebration of its Anniversary—Synchronous Earthquakes—Late Earthquakes in Central America—Volcano of Telica—El Volcan Viejo—Subterranean Lava Beds—Activity of the Volcanoes of the Marabios in the 16th Century—The Phenomena of Earthquakes—Earthquake of Oct. 27, 1849—Volcanic Features of the Country—Extinct Craters—Volcanic Lakes—The Volcano of Nindiri or Masaya—Descent into it by the Fray Blas de Castillo—Extraordinary Description, | 525 |
| CHAPTER XX.—Christmas—Nacimientos—The Cathedral on Christmas Eve—Midnight Ceremonies—An Alarm—Attempt at Revolution—Fight in the Plaza—Triumph of Order—The Dead—Melancholy Scenes—A Scheme of Federation, | 551 |
| CHAPTER XXI.—The “Paseo al Mar”—Preparations for the Annual Visit to the Sea—The Migration—Impromptu Dwellings—Indian Potters—The Salines—The Encampment—First Impressions—Contrabanda—Old Friends—The Camp by Moonlight—Practical Jokes—A Brief Alarm—Dance on the Shore—Un Juego—Lodgings, Cheap and Romantic—An Ocean Lullaby—Morning—Sea Bathing—Routine of the Paseo—Divertisements—Return to Leon, | 561 |
| CHAPTER XXII.—Proposed Visit to San Salvador and Honduras—Departure from | |
| Leon—ChinandegaLeon—Chinandega—Ladrones—The Goitre—Gigantic Forest Trees—Port of Tempisque—The Estero Real and its Scenery—A novel Custom house and its Commandante—Night on the Estero—Bay of Fonseca—Volcano of Conseguina—The Island of Tigre—Port of Amapala—View from the Island—Entrance to the Bay—Sacate Grande—Exciting News from Honduras—English Fortifications—Extent, Resources, and Importance of the Bay—Departure for the Seat of War, | 575 |
| CHAPTER XXIII.—Departure for San Lorenzo—Morning Scenes—Novel Cavalcade—A High Plain—Life amongst Revolutions—Nacaome—Military Reception—General Cabañas—An Alarm—Negotiations—British Interference—A Truce—Prospects of Adjustment—An Evening Review—The Soldiery—A Night Ride—Return to San Lorenzo, | 595 |
| CHAPTER XXIV.—La Union—Oysters—American Books—Chiquirin—French Frigate “La Serieuse”—Admiral Hornby of the Asia, 84—French and English war Vessels—Ascent of the Volcano of Conchagua—A Mountain Village—Peculiarities of the Indians—Las Tortilleras—Volcano of San Miguel—Fir Forests—An Ancient Volcano Vent—The Crater of Conchagua—Peak of Scoriæ—View from the Volcano—Enveloped in Clouds—Perilous Descent—Yololtoca—Pueblo of Conchagua again—An Obsequio—Indian Welcome—Semana Santa—Devils—Surrender of Guardiola—San Salvador—Its Condition and Relations, | 613 |
| CHAPTER XXV.—Departure for the United States—An American Hotel in Granada—Los Cocos—Voyage through the Lake—Descent of the River—San Juan—Chagres—Home—Outline of Nicaraguan Constitution—Conclusion of Narrative, | 633 |
| APPENDIX. | |
| CHAPTER I.—General Account of Nicaragua; its Boundaries, Topography, Lakes, Rivers, Ports, Climate, Population, Productions, Mines, etc., etc., | 639 |
| CHAPTER II.—The Proposed Inter-Oceanic Canal; Early Explorations; Survey of Colonel Childs in 1851; Various Lines proposed from Lake Nicaragua to the Pacific, etc., etc., | 657 |
| CHAPTER III.—Outline of Negotiations in respect to the Proposed Canal, etc., etc. | 672 |