The work of flower fertilization (pollination)—for they have all to be fertilized by hand, and that on the day they open—is mostly done by women and children. The operation is a very simple one, and an average negro will acquire the knack after being shown a few examples. (See fig. 1.)

The flower is taken in the left hand, three fingers being placed at its back and the thumb in front, the column with organs of fertilization on top being supported against the middle sepal behind. A bit of hard wood, cut to the size of a toothpick and scraped smooth and flat at one end, is the only tool required; this is held in the right hand. To get at the organs of fertilization easily, the sack which grows from the side of the column enveloping its front and marking the sexual organs is pressed down by the bit of wood, or this is run through its base, and the sack torn up, or the whole sack may be plucked off with finger and thumb, it matters not how it is laid open, so long as this is done quickly and without injury to any other part of the flower. The smooth end of the fecundating instrument is then laid flat on the front of the column just beneath the organs of fertilization, and being pushed up it catches under the flap which keeps the pollen from coming into contact with the stigma. The flap is raised along with the stick till it lies flat against the upper part of the column, being held in that position by the bit of wood. The stamen, at first raised along with the flap, now falls down again in its original position, and the flap being out of the way the pollen comes into contact with the stigma, and a slight pressure of the thumb on the stamen lodges the pollen in the position required; the bit of stick being then quickly but gently withdrawn, the operation is complete.

The whole affair is very much easier done than described, and with flowers fairly numerous an ordinary hand will fecundate a hundred or so per hour. Early morning, from 7 to 9, is the best time for fertilizing; but the work may be started with sunrise and carried on well into the afternoon, though about midday flowers begin to close some and the work goes slower. Most plants in full crop produce many more flowers than it is advisable to fertilize, for other parts of the vines, besides the checked hanging branches, blossom in favorable seasons, and the number of pods which a vine is able to mature properly must be estimated from the plant’s size and condition. In the course of four or five years, though by that time the planted cutting will be spent, if well cared for it will have grown a large quantity of vine; and as each new shoot, when long enough, sends down aerial roots in its own behalf, it becomes, so to speak, an independent plant and the parent of others. If none of the shoots from a strong growing vine have been removed the mass of growth in time becomes enormous, and may be equal to maturing a hundred or more good pods. When the supporting tree is stout and furnishes forks enough to admit of the vine being spread out so as to let plenty of air through it the vine may be allowed to accumulate to this extent, and if it gives, say, 20 clusters, each yielding 10 or more flowers, 5 or 6 might be fertilized on each.

But, generally speaking, about 30 pods to a vine is as many as should be left, and he would be a lucky planter who should average that number. In selecting flowers to fertilize those should be chosen which spring from the lower part and from the sides of the flower stalks, from which position they grow straighter pods than those coming out on top. In favorable weather, i. e., moist but not heavy rain (which latter often washes the pollen grains away before they germinate), only a small percentage of flowers will fail of fecundation. In case of failure, the flower drops off in three days or less, but otherwise remains attached to its stalk and slowly withers; the gynostemium adheres to most pods till they begin to ripen; thus it is easy to see the number successfully fecundated in each bunch, and where enough are secured the rest can be broken off. Later it is advisable to cut clean off with a knife the flower stalk a quarter of an inch or so beyond the last fertilized flower. Some planters plaster a bit of sticky clay on the cut surface to prevent it rotting back. Dry lime is perhaps better; this may be dabbed on with a piece of cloth dipped in the powder.

Pods grow to their full size in five or six weeks, but take some eight months, more or less, according to the altitude at which they are grown, or the amount of shade over them, before they ripen. The indication of ripening is a slight yellowing of the whole pod, which is more marked near its free end. When under too much shade the change in color is less noticeable, and many pods grown in such places split before they are gathered, and for that reason lose in value. To guard against splitting, and yet gather them at perfect ripeness, they should be gone over every other day. In removing them from the flower stalks the pods are grasped one by one near their attached ends, very slightly twisted, and at the same time pressed aside with the thumb. They must be taken off quite clean. If a bit of the flower stalk comes away with a pod, as sometimes will happen, it should be cut off smoothly. Any break or crack in the pod itself, however, near its butt, ranks it as an inferior quality. Buyers are very particular in this respect. After each day’s gathering, before the pods are started on their first stage of curing, it is well to sort them roughly into four classes: 1, long; 2, medium; 3, short; and 4, split.