The check example, Fig. 144, further illustrates the method of colouring these mock effects. Fig. 144A is a photo-micrograph of the fabric, showing the interlacing of the threads, and the difference in structure of “mock” and gauze fabrics (Fig. 138). It is produced in Fig. 144B, and coloured:⁠—

174. Colours in relation to Rib or Cord Styles.—The rib make of cloth is utilized in the construction of fancy patterns. It is one of the neatest schemes of weaving that can be used for this purpose. It allows of considerable scope for both colouring and designing. Though two wefts may be employed in producing this class of design, only one of them appears on the face of the fabric when forming the rib or cord effect. As a result of the cord may be variously coloured, and yet quite independently of the other sections of the style. Fig. 145, which is the plan of the rib style given in Pattern 4, on Plate XXIII., illustrates the base on which such designs are arranged. Part A forms the cord. It is produced solely by the even picks. These, in weaving, come as close together as if the odd picks were not part of the construction. At the same time they float under the several sets of threads forming the other parts of the style. It is this arrangement which makes it feasible to develop the cord in any order of colours without modifying the pattern as a whole. Pattern 4, Plate XXIII., shows the rib of a distinct shade. The method of colouring is as appended:⁠—

It is the black weft which forms the cord. Greater diversity of effect in this section of the fabric might have been acquired by wefting thus:⁠—

In this scheme of wefting the rib is spotted with silk. Occasionally two colours of silk are employed, so that there is evidently some facility for fancy weft tinting in designs of this character. It is not necessary to enter into the details of the warp colouring, which depend largely on the weaves combined.

Pattern 5 of Plate XXIII. is a rib of a different arrangement from that of the preceding example. In Fig. 146, used in its manufacture, three sizes of ribs are combined. It should be noted that where more than one rib constitutes any stripe, both the odd and even picks are utilized in forming the corded effect, and, as a consequence, it is no longer possible to have the whole of the rib stripes of a distinct weft shade from the rest of the design. If Band A only contained three ribs, the pick-and-pick method of colouring might be practised, because in such an arrangement the fine twill would start on the first pick of the design in both Sections C and D, admitting of the small ribs in A and of the large ribs in B being of a different colour from the opposing cords and also from the twilled parts. But this order of wefting, if applied to the design given in Fig. 146, would partially destroy the solidity and neatness of one of the twilled bands. Should the odd picks be selected for the fancy colour, it would be stripe C, but should the even picks be selected, it would be stripe D that would be modified by the additional shade of weft.

It may be observed that as a rule weaves of a warp type are combined with corded effects; clearer patterns, comprising more forcible contrasts of textural work, result from the use of these than from employing crossings which flush a considerable proportion of the weft yarn on the face of the fabric. Mellow and choice colouring is therefore important in the warp of these styles, because the yarns composing it float with comparatively few weft interruptions on the upper surface of the texture.