LIST OF FIGURES.

FIG. PAGE.
1 . Weave design, effect of 2
1 A. Weave design 2
2 . Prismatic experiment 8
3 . Design for prismatic experiment 10
4 . Lambert’s experiment 14
5 . A, B, C. One-and-one colouring effects in the plain weave 98
5 . D, E, F. One-and-one colouring effects in the [2\2] twill 98
6 . Hairline pattern in [3/1] twill 105
7 . Hairline pattern in [3/1] twill, fine and broad effects 105
8 . Hairline pattern in mat weaves 106
9 . Hairline and broken effect in [3/1] and [2\2] twills 106
10 . Vertical and transverse lines or stripes 107
11 . A, B, C, D, E, and F. Stripe patterns in two shades 108
12 . A, B, C, D, E, and F. Stripe patterns in three shades 109
13 . Line patterns in warp face weaves 110
13 A. Ten-shaft whip cord 111
14 . Compound stripe of two sets of lines 111
14 A. Compound stripe of several sets of lines of different width in three shades 112
Principles of Checking.
15 . Common check 123
16 . Common check modified 123
17 . Check composed of two sizes of squares 124
18 . Check composed of two sizes of squares modified 124
19 . Overcheck 125
20 . Overcheck modified 125
21 . Counter-change check 126
22 . [4\4] and [8\8] check 126
23 . Graduated check 127
24 . Common three-colour check 130
25 . “Set” check 132
26 . “Set” check modified 132
27 . Compound checking in three colours 133
28 . Compound checking in three colours modified 133
29 . Counter-change check in three colours 134
30 . Three-colour interchanging check 134
31 . Three-colour interchanging check modified 136
32 . Shaded check 137
33 . Weave shaded check 140
34 . Weave shaded check reverse section 141
35 . Shaded figured style 142
35 A. Shaded figured style section of weave design for 143
Tartans.
36 . The Menzies 147
37 . The Menzies, modification of 147
38 . The Montgomery 148
39 . The Montgomery, I. modification of 148
40 . The Montgomery, II. modification of 149
41 . The Douglas 149
42 . The Douglas, I. modification of 149
43 . The Douglas, II. modification of 149
44 . The Douglas, II., modification of, in the [3\3] twill 150
45 . The McQueen 151
46 . The McQueen, I. modification of 152
47 . The McQueen, II. modification of 152
48 . The Hamilton 153
49 . The Maxwell 153
50 . The Elliot 154
51 . The McKinnon 154
52 . The McKinnon, I. modification of 155
53 . The McKinnon, II. modification of 155
54 . The Dundas 155
55 . The Dundas, I. modification of 155
56 . The Dundas, II. modification of 156
57 . The Fraser 156
58 . The Fraser, I. modification of 157
59 . The Fraser, II. modification of 157
Standard Elementary Colour Effects.
60 . ⎫ Plain weaves 162
60 A. ⎭
61 . ⎫ [2\2] twills 162
61 A. ⎭
62 . ⎫ Two-and-two colour effects in the [2\2] twill 163
62 A. ⎬
62 B. ⎭
63 . Effect in the plain weave (bird’s-eye spot) 164
64 . Spotted design composed of plain weave 165
65 . Spotted design composed of plain weave, effect of colouring one-and-one 166
66 . Spotted design composed of [2\2] twill, effect of colouring one-and-one 167
67 . Spotted twill weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one colouring in warp and weft 168
67 A. Spotted twill weave 168
68 . Mat and twill weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one colouring in warp and weft 169
68 A. Mat and twill weave 169
69 . Checked weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one colouring in warp and weft 169
69 A. Checked weave 169
70 . [2\2] mat design, effect in the fabric, two-and-two-colouring 170
70 A. [2\2]mat design 170
71 . ⎫ Three-and-three colour effects in the [3\3] twill 171
71 A. ⎬
71 B. ⎭
72 . ⎫ Four-and-four colour effects in the [2\2] twill 171
72 A. ⎬
72 B. ⎭
73 . Four-and-four colouring in [2\2] mat 172
74 . Four-and-four colouring in weave 74A. 172
74 A. Fancy eight-shaft weave 172
75 . ⎫ Six-and-six colour effects in the [3\3] twill 174
75 A. ⎬
75 B. ⎭
76 . Eight-and-eight colouring in the [4\4] twill 174
77 . Six-and-six colouring in weave 77A 175
77 A Twelve-shaft irregular warp cord 175
78 . Star check (six-and-six colouring) 175
78 A. Weave for Fig. 78 175
79 . Three-odd thread colour effect in the [3\3] twill 176
80 . Three-odd thread colour effects in a [3\3] twill check design 177
80 A. Design for Fig. 80 177
81 . Three-2’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 178
82 . Three-3’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 178
83 . Hairline in four shades in the [3\1] broken twill 180
84 . Four-2’s colour effect in the [2\2] twill 181
85 . Four-3’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 181
86 . Four-2’s colour effect in the Mayo 182
86 A. Mayo weave 182
87 . Four-and-one colour effect in the [3\2] twill 184
87 A. [3\2] twill 184
87 B. Irregular checking in Fig. 87a 184
88 . Six-and-two colour effect in a fancy mat weave 185
89 . Fancy eight-shaft mat 185
89 A. Weave for Fig. 89 185
90 . Six-and-two colour effect in an irregular weave 186
90 A. Weave for Fig. 90 186
91 . Irregular colour effect in an eight-shaft twill 186
91 A. Weave for Fig. 91 186
92 . Two-two-and-one colour effect in the [3\2] twill 186
93 . Three-two-and-one colour effect in the [3\3] twill 187
94 . Six-four-and-two colour effect in the [3\3] twill 187
95 . Six-four-and-two colour effect in the [2\2] mat 187
96 . Twelve-shaft fancy twill 187
97 . Irregular colour effect in four shades in Fig. 96 188
98 . Irregular colour effect in four shades in ordinary twill 188
99 . Irregular colour effect in four shades in the Mayo 189
100 . Shaded check in four shades 189
100 A. Weave for Fig. 100 189
101 . A series of elementary colour patterns in [2\2] twill and mat 190
Examples in Compound Colourings.
102 . Regular compound check, 2-and-2 and 1-and-1 colouring, [2\2] twill 193
103 . Regular compound check, 4-and-4, 2-and-2, and 1-and-1 colouring, [2\2] twill 195
104 . Regular compound stripe, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 203
105 . Regular compound stripe, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 203
106 . Regular compound check, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring, [2\2] twill 204
107 . Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1 and 2-2-and-2 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 204
108 . Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1 and 2-2-and-2 colouring, [2\2] twill 204
109 . Regular compound stripe, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6 colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 207
110 . Regular compound stripe, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 207
111 . Regular compound check, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6, [2\2] twill 208
112 . Regular compound stripe, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6 colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 209
113 . Regular compound stripe, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 209
114 . Regular compound check, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6, [2\2] twill 210
115 . Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and 4 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 211
116 . Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4 colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 211
117 . Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4, [2\2] twill 211
117 A. Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4, [2\2] mat 213
118 . Irregular compound stripe, 2-and-1 and 4-and-2, dark weft, [2\2] twill 215
119 . Irregular compound check, 2-and-1 and 4-and-2 colouring, [2\2] twill 215
120 . Irregular compound stripe, 6-4-and-2 and 3-and-3, dark weft, [3\3] twill 216
121 . Irregular compound check, 6-4-and-2 and 3-and-3, [3\3] twill 216
122 . Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 4-and-2 colouring, [3\3] twill 217
123 . Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 2-1-1-and-2 colouring, [3\3] twill 217
124 . Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 2-1-1-and-2 colouring, differently grouped, [3\3] twill 218
Illustrative of Colouring Specific Weaves and Designs.
125 . Corkscrew weave, colour effect in 222
126 . Corkscrew weave, colour effect in broad stripe 224
127 . Corkscrew weave, colour effect in angled stripe 224
128 . Modified corkscrew weave 225
129 . Pattern obtained in Fig. 128 225
130 . (Upper section) Check produced in fancy weave 226
130 . (Lower section) Pattern due to Fig. 132 226
131 . Weave for Fig. 130 (upper section) 226
132 . Warp and weft cord and prunelle twill design 228
133 . Diagonal pattern in single- and double-plain weaves 230
134 . Section of design for Fig. 133 231
135 . Striped spotted design 233
136 . Wave or zig-zag effect 233
137 . Section of gauze and plain-woven pattern 234
138 . Gauze structure (photo-micrograph) 235
139 . Plan for gauze twill and plain stripe 235
140 . Healding draft for Figs. 139 and 140 235
141 . Similar to Fig. 139 235
142 . Fancy gauze and ordinary weave compound 236
143 . Mock gauze stripe design 239
144 . Mock gauze check 240
144 A. Structure of mock gauze (photo-micrograph) 240
144 B. Weave for Fig. 144A 241
145 . Cord stripe. Weaves, weft cord, and whip cord twills 241
146 . Cord stripe. Weaves, weft cords and buckskin twill 242
Colour Effects in Compound Weave Designs.
147 . Figured pattern in [2\2] twill and double-plain weaves 247
148 . Section of design for Fig. 147 248
149 . Woven effect of Figs. 150 and 151 250
150 . Compound design [1\2], [2\1] and [2\2] twills 250
151 . Healding draft for Fig. 153 251
152 . Woven effect of Figs. 153 and 154 250
153 . Compound design, small twill weaves reversed 251
154 . Healding draft for Fig. 153 252
155 . Compound check design, [2\2] twill weave reversed 252
156 . Healding draft for Fig. 155 253
157 . Six-and-three colour effect in Fig. 158 255
158 . Stripe design composed of [3\3] mat and a broken mat 255
159 . Healding draft for Fig. 160 257
160 . Compound style in [2\2], [3\1], and [1\3] twills 258
161 . Stripe design consisting of a seven-shaft diagonal reversed 259
162 . Stripe design consisting of warp and weft cord effects on a plain weave ground 260
163 . Stripe design consisting of thirteen-shaft weaves 260
164 . Stripe design consisting of fancy weaves 262
165 . Stripe design consisting of sixteen-shaft twilled mat and other weaves 263
166 . Compound of warp and weft corkscrews and whip cord weaves 263
167 . Wave pattern, sateen ground 265
167 A. Design for Fig. 167 265
Colouring of Spotted Designs.
168 . Angled [2\2] twill spotted pattern 268
169 . Effect of Fig. 168 269
170 . Spotted warp twill 269
171 . Spotted warp twill 270
172 . Spotted effect in [3\1] broken twill ground 271
173 . Spotted effect in [2\2], [3\1], and [1\3] twills 271
174 . Spotted effect in [3\1] and [1\3] broken twills 271
175 . Stripe spotted design 272
176 . Method of grouping “spots” 272
177 . Irregular distribution of “spots” 273
177 A. Pattern for Fig. 177 274
178 . Warp and weft spotting on a plain ground (small effects) 274
179 . Warp and weft spotting on a plain ground (broad effects) 275
180 . Warp and weft spotting on a twill ground 276
181 . Warp and weft spotting to form checks 278
182 . Pattern for Fig. 181 278
183 . Single-thread warp spotting 280
184 . Single-pick weft spotting (corkscrew twill) 281
185 . Single-pick weft spotting (mat ground) 283
186 . Modification of Fig. 184 283
187 . Warp-backed design, single-pick spotted 283
188 . Diagonal single-pick spotted 284
189 . Single-thread and single-pick spotting 285
Compound Weave Colouring.
190 . Double-plain stripe, thread-and-thread colouring 299
191 . Double-plain stripe, thread-and-thread colouring 299
192 . Double-plain stripe, weaves cutting 299
193 . Double-plain stripe, warp colouring fitting with weave structure 301
194 . Double-plain stripe in three colours 301
195 . Double-plain stripe in three colours 302
196 . Compound design, double-plain and warp-twill weave 302
197 . Double-plain check 304
198 . Figured reversible design 306
199 . Figured reversible design 308
200 . Figured reversible design double-plain and [2\2] twill weaves 309
201 . Double-weave reversible 2-and-1 principle 310
202 . Double-twill figuring 312
203 . Double-weave vesting 313
204 . Double-twill, warp stitched for golf cloaking 316
205 . Check golf cloaking pattern 317
205 A. Weave for Fig. 205, centre-warp stitched 316
Principles of Colouring in the Warp.
206 . Warp-figured design 322
207 . Extra-warp figuring 323
207 A. Section for Fig. 207 323
208 . Warp-pile structure 329
209 . Weave structure for three-colour warp pile 331
210 . Section of three-colour pile fabric 334
Principles of Colouring in The Weft-Curl Fabrics.
211 . Ordinary principle of weft figuring 338
212 . Extra-weft colouring 338
213 . Section design for Fig. 212 339
214 . Rib or cord stripe, extra weft coloured 342
215 . Spotted vesting, extra weft colouring 342
216 . Diagonal design, extra weft colouring 343
217 . Section of four-cover vesting design 344
218 . Honeycomb weave 345
219 . Honeycomb fabric 346
220 . Honeycomb striped design 346
221 . Figured pattern, sateen ground 347
222 . Section of pine figuring, four extra wefts 348
223 . Pine figuring, Border style 350
224 . Section of Paisley shawl design 351
225 . Section of two-ply weft reversible fabric 352
226 . Weave for Fig. 227 352
227 . Design for a reversible fabric 352
228 . Three-shade weft coloured reversible 353
229 . Three-ply weft weave, four-shaft 354
230 . Three-ply weft weave, six-shaft 354
231 . Weft figuring on a warp cord ground 355
232 . Figuring in solid weft floats and bold warp cord on a rep ground 356
233 . Section of pile fabrics 357
234 . Section of pile fabrics, (cut) 359
235 . Section of pile fabrics, long curl effect (cut) 359
236 . Section of pile fabrics, long curl effect (uncut) 360
237 . Feather trimming textures 361
238 . Weft curl weave 364
239 . Striped curl pattern 365
240 . Weave design for Fig. 239 365
241 . Irregular “curl” 366
242 . Weave design for Fig. 241 366
243 . “Curl” in two colours of weft 367
244 . Design for two-colour weft “curl” 367